Powered Sub w/ B&O System

[Probmxstyle]

I've been thinking about installing a powered sub in the storage area behind the spare tire. Does anyone have experience running the leads going to the stock amp to a powered sub? Is the signal filtered by the amp or by the headunit?

This is the sub I've been thinking about installing:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-KQ92WcOiwWV/p_500PWES8/Alpine-PWE-S8.html

[connoisseurr]

Are you looking to install an additional subwoofer to the factory sub, or replace the existing sub?

I'm working in a fiberglass box that will mount to the passenger side tail light access cubby. I've also considered the spare tire area but I do enjoy the extra storage space for "crap".

I've tested a simple unit by tapping the leads from the factory amp to the factory sub and the performance is great. Will have bass control up in the cockpit area and still retain minor bass control within the MMI system.

Also Alpine makes great drivers however I've always used JL products. I've done plenty of sub installs and JL has yet to fail me or the vehicle owner. I've had a handful of Alpine amps sh*t the bed.

Check out JL's drivers and compare with the Alpine you have selected. Either would be a great choice.

http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers

[cmoore86]

I put this in mine a while back. Super easy install and sounds great. A more integrated sub box like above is probably better as I had to lose my spare tire. I don't care about that as I can't really use it with the wheels I run anyway. From what I remember that Alpine unit should fit and you can keep the spare.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/629b84588adbe51d926cf82e7d7f1df4.jpg

[Probmxstyle]

Are you looking to install an additional subwoofer to the factory sub, or replace the existing sub?

I'm working in a fiberglass box that will mount to the passenger side tail light access cubby. I've also considered the spare tire area but I do enjoy the extra storage space for "crap".

I've tested a simple unit by tapping the leads from the factory amp to the factory sub and the performance is great. Will have bass control up in the cockpit area and still retain minor bass control within the MMI system.

Also Alpine makes great drivers however I've always used JL products. I've done plenty of sub installs and JL has yet to fail me or the vehicle owner. I've had a handful of Alpine amps sh*t the bed.

Check out JL's drivers and compare with the Alpine you have selected. Either would be a great choice.

http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers

My plan is to unhook the factory sub and run the audio leads to a power subwoofer. I really wanted to get a powered JL setup, but they don't seem to have a unit small enough to fit in the storage area while keeping the spare tire.

[Probmxstyle]

I put this in mine a while back. Super easy install and sounds great. A more integrated sub box like above is probably better as I had to lose my spare tire. I don't care about that as I can't really use it with the wheels I run anyway. From what I remember that Alpine unit should fit and you can keep the spare.


That is my train of thought as well. You put yours exactly where I want to place mine, but I would like to retain my spare tire.

[freesole]

I put this in mine a while back. Super easy install and sounds great. A more integrated sub box like above is probably better as I had to lose my spare tire. I don't care about that as I can't really use it with the wheels I run anyway. From what I remember that Alpine unit should fit and you can keep the spare.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/629b84588adbe51d926cf82e7d7f1df4.jpg

Looks great! Do you have more info on your install? I would like to read more about it in case I do make that upgrade in the future

[cmoore86]

That is my train of thought as well. You put yours exactly where I want to place mine, but I would like to retain my spare tire.

That Alpine should fit. I only need about 1" to get mine to fit with the spare. But install is really easy. Just tap the OEM sub speaker wires for the sound like you said. Then I used the power socket on the passenger side of the trunk for remote turn on as I didn't want to rely on the auto turn on from the amp.

[cmoore86]

Looks great! Do you have more info on your install? I would like to read more about it in case I do make that upgrade in the future

Thanks! Need to tidy up the wiring still. What info do you need? It's super easy with the battery back there. That's a powered sub I put in (10" w/400 watts @.25 ohms). Used the OEM sub speakers wire for sound, positive from the battery, ground from right below the trunk latch in the middle. Then I tapped the positive wire from the power outlet in the trunk for remote turn on. I actually found a way to keep the spare tire back there but I needed to remove the handle to pull the cover up as the bottom of the handle was hitting the grill of the speaker.

[Probmxstyle]

Thanks! Need to tidy up the wiring still. What info do you need? It's super easy with the battery back there. That's a powered sub I put in (10" w/400 watts @.25 ohms). Used the OEM sub speakers wire for sound, positive from the battery, ground from right below the trunk latch in the middle. Then I tapped the positive wire from the power outlet in the trunk for remote turn on. I actually found a way to keep the spare tire back there but I needed to remove the handle to pull the cover up as the bottom of the handle was hitting the grill of the speaker.

If that is the powered 10" model, do you think the powered 8" box would fit with the spare?

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93330

[cmoore86]

If that is the powered 10" model, do you think the powered 8" box would fit with the spare?

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93330

I think so. I don't remember seeing the 8" model when I got mine but then again I was aiming for the 12" at first. The dims look good on the 8" but what I had to do was wedge the box in with the spare. They were completely pushing against each other. But it worked except for the cover closing. So my concern would still be that possibly the same problem might happen. I think you should good though.

[BarryT82]

Someone did a DIY on swapping out the OEM subwoofer with an aftermarket one. They used the OEM box and had to cut it a little bit, but they said it worked well.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/599483-Cheap-15-subwoofer-upgrade-(dremel-work-required)

[zachf88]

Someone did a DIY on swapping out the OEM subwoofer with an aftermarket one. They used the OEM box and had to cut it a little bit, but they said it worked well.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/599483-Cheap-15-subwoofer-upgrade-(dremel-work-required)

This was not B&O system though

[jomama229]

Someone did a DIY on swapping out the OEM subwoofer with an aftermarket one. They used the OEM box and had to cut it a little bit, but they said it worked well.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/599483-Cheap-15-subwoofer-upgrade-(dremel-work-required)

wow!

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/q5-sq5-mki-8r-discussion-129/31186d1365994463-my-subwoofer-audyssey-sub-cargo-tray.jpg

just did a quick search on this pic from post #5 by spijun and found it's source to be from this thread on AW: http://www.audiworld.com/forums/q5-sq5-mki-8r-discussion-129/my-subwoofer-audyssey-2845644/page2/

that looks like a nice install - reading up on it now.

[TITAN_Q5]

Looks great! Do you have more info on your install? I would like to read more about it in case I do make that upgrade in the future

Awesome ... dude can u give me details on this I want the exact setup ..... please


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[Spacemonkey]

Use JL TW5 thin woofers under there and you won't be disappointed.


Sent from [emoji336]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/d7ff435b9fc7a92a0d2df4682214c574.jpg

[Choiboy]

Is there anyway to turn up the volume or level of the base B and O subwoofer in the trunk? I hate the bass is so low even when i crank up the bass on the stereo.

[TITAN_Q5]

Use JL TW5 thin woofers under there and you won't be disappointed.


Sent from [emoji336]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/d7ff435b9fc7a92a0d2df4682214c574.jpg

Ok am kinda a noob at this sound stuff ... so please pardon the dumbness ... it's not intended.

1) do I need a new amp
2) what cables will be needed
3) can I fit this in the original sub box or should I get a new box for it
4) can u point me to a setup guide for this if possible please




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[connoisseurr]

Ok am kinda a noob at this sound stuff ... so please pardon the dumbness ... it's not intended.

1) do I need a new amp
2) what cables will be needed
3) can I fit this in the original sub box or should I get a new box for it
4) can u point me to a setup guide for this if possible please




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1) I would 100% use a dedicated mono amp for any subwoofer installation.
2) You will need an amplifier power kit (contains positive and negative leads, remote turn on wire, and RCA cables)
3) the JL TW5 is a 13" subwoofer driver and will require some sort of new enclosure. Factory enclosure cannot be retained.
4) I have seen a setup guide for the Q5 non-BO but wiring to the BO system will be easy peasy since everything you need is already in the trunk area. No crazy long wire runs needed (unless you wish to run a remote bass knob up to the driver area.

[Spacemonkey]

Before I picked up my Q5, I ran the TW5 in my A4 powered by a JL HD 900/5 which has 500 watts for the mono sub channel. I bought the TW5 in the JL prefabbed enclosure, but I hear that bigger enclosures sound better. Nevertheless, it was more than enough power and definitely sounded awesome.. I actually considered using the TW5 in the Q but decided to run an Image Dynamics IDMax 12 with the more available space. Sonic Electornix has a NVX amp kit for a good price.


https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94659_NVX-XKIT46-5-or-6-Channel-Amp-Kit.html

https://creativeaudio.net/mobile/enclosures/loaded-enclosures/jl-audio-cs113tg-tw5v2-single-13tw5v2-truck-powerwedge-sealed-2/


This is the TW3 and I had this installed as well. It's plenty.
https://creativeaudio.net/mobile/enclosures/loaded-enclosures/jl-audio-cs112lg-tw3-single-12tw3-powerwedge-sealed-2/

If you sign up for the newsletter for Creative Audio, you get 10% off. You can call them too and they might come off the price. They sold the TW5 to me for around $450.

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[xpocky24]

wow!

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/q5-sq5-mki-8r-discussion-129/31186d1365994463-my-subwoofer-audyssey-sub-cargo-tray.jpg

just did a quick search on this pic from post #5 by spijun and found it's source to be from this thread on AW: http://www.audiworld.com/forums/q5-sq5-mki-8r-discussion-129/my-subwoofer-audyssey-2845644/page2/

that looks like a nice install - reading up on it now.

This is super clean!

[Jonathan S]

I did a custom install with a 12" sub -- 8" and 10"s don't go low or loud enough for my ears

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/694865-Aftermarket-12-quot-subwoofer-custom-installation-in-Q5-with-Bang-and-Olufsen-system?highlight=subwoofer

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/562/IMG_33901.jpg

[TITAN_Q5]

But is the trunk usable after this ?


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[Jonathan S]

This is what is looks like with the cover on it -- trunk is fully useable

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/562/IMG_3392.jpg

[IRogue]

So has anyone confirmed if the Alpine (PWE-S8 or PWE-V80) or the Kicker box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 will fit in the space behind the factory spare if you remove the plastic tray insert? (please post pics!) I am not interested in losing my spare or paying $600-1000 for a custom box (very nice work above though with the JLs built around the spare!). I looked at the dimensions of the JL 8" Micro Sub and I do not think it will fit (18-1/2"W x 11-1/8"H x 5-1/8"D) with the spare in place - the height is the problem and is the same as the 10" power wedge....

[xpspc]

So has anyone confirmed if the Alpine (PWE-S8 or PWE-V80) or the Kicker box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 will fit in the space behind the factory spare if you remove the plastic tray insert? (please post pics!) I am not interested in losing my spare or paying $600-1000 for a custom box (very nice work above though with the JLs built around the spare!). I looked at the dimensions of the JL 8" Micro Sub and I do not think it will fit (18-1/2"W x 11-1/8"H x 5-1/8"D) with the spare in place - the height is the problem and is the same as the 10" power wedge....

Kicker TCWRT82 will fit perfectly with spare tire inside
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAUGDRY
That's what i use before my current setup
And sounded good.
I got that enclosure for sale
Used for few hours in perfect condition and very cheap
Pm if You are interested

Subwoofer dia (in, cm) 8, 20
Impedance (Ohms) 2
Power Watts (peak/RMS) 600/300
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 85.5
Box Top Depth (in, cm) 4-3/8, 11.1
Box Bottom Depth (in, cm) 5-3/8, 13.5
Box Height (in, cm) 16-1/8, 41
Box Width (in, cm) 9, 23

Recommended Amplifiers
12CX3001 or 41DXA2501

My current setup:
amp and two-channel processor
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Bracket2_zpstlet9mxw.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Bracket2_zpstlet9mxw.jpg.html)
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Bracket_zpsloivg6ay.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Bracket_zpsloivg6ay.jpg.html)
sub new
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Sub_zpszs3aukyf.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Sub_zpszs3aukyf.jpg.html)
sub old
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Sub%20old%20speaker_zpsmtvv0eo2.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Sub%20old%20speaker_zpsmtvv0eo2.jpg.html)
control unit
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Sub%20control_zpsem7c8vf9.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Sub%20control_zpsem7c8vf9.jpg.html)

[tcm glx]

What's the story on that Rockford fosgate box. Looks great!!

[IRogue]

xpspc, any chance you have a pic with the Kicker box installed? The dimensions are 18x10.5x7.5 which is bigger than -

Alpine PWE-S8 ($299) 13.5 x 9 x 2.75
Kicker 11HS8 ($299) 14.25 x 9.5 x 3.25
Rockford PS-8 ($299) 14.5 x 9.5 x 3.5

Both of the JL Audio boxes (8" and 10") ($429-449) are 11.125 wide and doubtfully will not fit (missing by 1" or more)?

[xpspc]

xpspc, any chance you have a pic with the Kicker box installed? The dimensions are 18x10.5x7.5 which is bigger than -

Alpine PWE-S8 ($299) 13.5 x 9 x 2.75
Kicker 11HS8 ($299) 14.25 x 9.5 x 3.25
Rockford PS-8 ($299) 14.5 x 9.5 x 3.5

Both of the JL Audio boxes (8" and 10") ($429-449) are 11.125 wide and doubtfully will not fit (missing by 1" or more)?

look at post #18
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/q5-sq5-mki-8r-discussion-129/sq5-mods-solutions-front-license-plate-subwoofer-upgrade-2860447/page2/
not my install but same placement

[IRogue]

^ thank you!

[tcm glx]

What's the story on that Rockford fosgate box. Looks great!!

Any info? Is that a custom box?

[xpspc]

Any info? Is that a custom box?

Yes-custom, MDF board sealed subwoofer enclosure
P3SD2-10 10" Punch P3S Shallow 2-Ohm DVC subwoofer because of shallow mounting depth (3.5inch)
P3SD2-10 features Dual 2-Ohm voice coils for wiring flexibility and 300 Watts RMS power handling
A sealed box is the easiest to design and build, and protects the woofer against subsonic bass that can affect its performance.
Two main challenges — making sure it contains the proper volume of air, and controlling the cabinet resonances.

[IRogue]

reposting a few pics of the Kicker box installed with spare. (so the 3 powered boxes above should all fit).

The Kicker 8" CompRT specs -

◦Box Top Depth (11.1 cm): 4-3/8"
◦Box Bottom Depth (13.5 cm): 5-3/8"
◦Box Height (41 cm): 16-1/8"
◦Box Width (23 cm): 9"


http://i64.tinypic.com/687o6s.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/dcbvbo.jpg

[IRogue]

Kicker TCWRT82 will fit perfectly with spare tire inside
I got that enclosure for sale
Used for few hours in perfect condition and very cheap
Pm if You are interested



pm'd

[1Jeffersonc]

Kicker TCWRT82 will fit perfectly with spare tire inside
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAUGDRY
That's what i use before my current setup
And sounded good.
I got that enclosure for sale
Used for few hours in perfect condition and very cheap
Pm if You are interested

Subwoofer dia (in, cm) 8, 20
Impedance (Ohms) 2
Power Watts (peak/RMS) 600/300
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 85.5
Box Top Depth (in, cm) 4-3/8, 11.1
Box Bottom Depth (in, cm) 5-3/8, 13.5
Box Height (in, cm) 16-1/8, 41
Box Width (in, cm) 9, 23

Recommended Amplifiers
12CX3001 or 41DXA2501

My current setup:
amp and two-channel processor
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Bracket2_zpstlet9mxw.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Bracket2_zpstlet9mxw.jpg.html)
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Bracket_zpsloivg6ay.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Bracket_zpsloivg6ay.jpg.html)
sub new
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Sub_zpszs3aukyf.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Sub_zpszs3aukyf.jpg.html)
sub old
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Sub%20old%20speaker_zpsmtvv0eo2.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Sub%20old%20speaker_zpsmtvv0eo2.jpg.html)
control unit
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/XPSPC/Sub%20control_zpsem7c8vf9.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/XPSPC/media/Sub%20control_zpsem7c8vf9.jpg.html)

Could you provide some more info on the sub level control, is the panel custom as it looks that way and what is the switch below the level knob? more detailed pics available?
Thanks

[Perry01]

To improve my base I added a 10” powered sub yesterday. I wasn’t expecting window shaking base but mainly deeper lows. The install took all of 20 minutes. I removed the stock sub in the spare tire and used its inputs for the powered sub and since the battery is just inches away, it made for an easy way to supply power and ground.

https://s26.postimg.cc/o62ie5pgp/41_A63347-_AF2_D-4925-_BC39-5_D2_FCA803_F41.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[SQive]

Does it have the automatic on/off?

[Pittdawg]

To improve my base I added a 10” powered sub yesterday. I wasn’t expecting window shaking base but mainly deeper lows. The install took all of 20 minutes. I removed the stock sub in the spare tire and used its inputs for the powered sub and since the battery is just inches away, it made for an easy way to supply power and ground.

https://s26.postimg.cc/o62ie5pgp/41_A63347-_AF2_D-4925-_BC39-5_D2_FCA803_F41.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Just curious, why was it necessary to remove the stock sub when you added the powered sub? Is it not possible to have both connected?

[Perry01]

Does it have the automatic on/off?

Yes it does.


Just curious, why was it necessary to remove the stock sub when you added the powered sub? Is it not possible to have both connected?

The stock sub was small, thin paper and couldn’t handle much power. This one is 10”, 200 watts RMS and fits nicely under the rear compartment.

https://s26.postimg.cc/soj1ulqix/489_DE9_E0-_BC79-4952-_B512-3_FB3_E97_A7_ED3.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[billm0066]

FYI Cerwin Vega now makes a spare tire subwoofer and JBL is releasing one soon. I was going to order the Cerwin Vega one but a local car audio shop said he heard it at CES and said the JBL one sounded better. He sells JBL products so not sure if it's biased or not. This car audio shop also said he can use a LOC and make the sub sound better with b&o. He said the LOC prevents the system from adjusting bass volume when you turn it up.

[KnightR]

I put this in mine a while back. Super easy install and sounds great. A more integrated sub box like above is probably better as I had to lose my spare tire. I don't care about that as I can't really use it with the wheels I run anyway. From what I remember that Alpine unit should fit and you can keep the spare.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/629b84588adbe51d926cf82e7d7f1df4.jpg

So I just got my 10” box same as yours but I can’t seem to fit it under the floor. Did you have to remove the grill to get the floor down or modify anything to make it fit?

Thanks

[cmoore86]

So I just got my 10” box same as yours but I can’t seem to fit it under the floor. Did you have to remove the grill to get the floor down or modify anything to make it fit?

Thanks

No mine fit in just fine in the position pictured. Are you trying to leave your spare in? I tried to do that but I couldnt get the box low enough with the spare in as it didnt quite fit under the floor due to the floor handle.

[KnightR]

No mine fit in just fine in the position pictured. Are you trying to leave your spare in? I tried to do that but I couldnt get the box low enough with the spare in as it didnt quite fit under the floor due to the floor handle.

No spare is out, I can’t get the box to clear the floor. Yours was the 10” powered version right. It just sits up on a couple spots and the grill is way to high to allow the floor back in. If I could figure out how to remove the grill it might work but it would be close. Maybe they changed up the dimensions or the 2016 floor changed shape I don’t know. I’m stuck for ideas now.

[cmoore86]

No spare is out, I can’t get the box to clear the floor. Yours was the 10” powered version right. It just sits up on a couple spots and the grill is way to high to allow the floor back in. If I could figure out how to remove the grill it might work but it would be close. Maybe they changed up the dimensions or the 2016 floor changed shape I don’t know. I’m stuck for ideas now.

Hmm. Thats odd. I wouldnt think that the floor dimensions changed from 2015 to 2016. So possibly JL changed the box dimensions from what I had? I definitely had the 10' powered version. Here is the link to the current one on the JL site. Looks to be the same dimensions as what I got though.

http://www.jlaudio.com/acs110lg-tw1-car-audio-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93334

[KnightR]

Hmm. Thats odd. I wouldnt think that the floor dimensions changed from 2015 to 2016. So possibly JL changed the box dimensions from what I had? I definitely had the 10' powered version. Here is the link to the current one on the JL site. Looks to be the same dimensions as what I got though.

http://www.jlaudio.com/acs110lg-tw1-car-audio-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93334

That’s the one I bought but I think the box may have changed. Your speaker seams to be right up to the edges on both sides and mine has about 3” extra box width the speaker isn’t centred like yours that might be one of the issues. I wonder if anything else changed dimensionally. Well hopefully JL takes returns. Back to the drawing board.

[KnightR]

That’s the one I bought but I think the box may have changed. Your speaker seams to be right up to the edges on both sides and mine has about 3” extra box width the speaker isn’t centred like yours that might be one of the issues. I wonder if anything else changed dimensionally. Well hopefully JL takes returns. Back to the drawing board.

80565



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[cmoore86]

That’s the one I bought but I think the box may have changed. Your speaker seams to be right up to the edges on both sides and mine has about 3” extra box width the speaker isn’t centred like yours that might be one of the issues. I wonder if anything else changed dimensionally. Well hopefully JL takes returns. Back to the drawing board.

The dims that JL posts online match up to my memory when I bought it and measured my floor space. Are you sure you got the right box (did they ship the right one)? I mean if your box has 3" all around the speaker then it doesnt match to box I bought and what is listed on JL's website that I just linked. What I think you are describing would definitely make the box not sit where I had it and cause issues.


80565



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Edit - Now that I see this pic its pretty clear that either you got shipped the wrong item or JL changed from what they are putting on the website. That is definitely different than mine and what I linked to.

[cmoore86]

80565



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To me...it looks like you got this speaker which is not what I linked to earlier and purchased myself. Hopefully that was a shipping error.

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp110lg-tw1-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93332

[KnightR]

To me...it looks like you got this speaker which is not what I linked to earlier and purchased myself. Hopefully that was a shipping error.

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp110lg-tw1-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93332

Yep that’s it, I didn’t even look at the power wedge boxes when I ordered. I figured the micro sub enclosures would be the small ones. Unfortunately your links get redirected to the main JL site here in Canada so I wasn’t even looking at the right ones from the start. Well now to figure out how the exchange the two. Thanks for the help your dimensions look like they will fit perfect once I have the right box.

[cmoore86]

Yep that’s it, I didn’t even look at the power wedge boxes when I ordered. I figured the micro sub enclosures would be the small ones. Unfortunately your links get redirected to the main JL site here in Canada so I wasn’t even looking at the right ones from the start. Well now to figure out how the exchange the two. Thanks for the help your dimensions look like they will fit perfect once I have the right box.

No problem! I didnt notice that you were in Canada and think about the potential link issue. Glad you see the right thing now. I didnt notice that they had another box that was so close to the one I got either. I am sure that you can get them to work with you. Although I wouldnt be surprised if there is some sort of re-stocking fee or something. Hope it works out!!

[Pittdawg]

Yes it does.



The stock sub was small, thin paper and couldn’t handle much power. This one is 10”, 200 watts RMS and fits nicely under the rear compartment.


Thanks; what I really wanted to know is if I could add a powered sub without removing the stock one. It seems like a waste to remove it if you aren't adding a new sub in the same location.

[Perry01]

Thanks; what I really wanted to know is if I could add a powered sub without removing the stock one. It seems like a waste to remove it if you aren't adding a new sub in the same location.

I suppose you could leave it but since I used its wires to feed the new powered sub, I removed it.

[KnightR]

Then I tapped the positive wire from the power outlet in the trunk for remote turn on.

Well I got my mixup in sub boxes corrected and finally ready to complete my install today. And as luck would have it my multimeter is not working. You wouldn’t happen to remember which wire was the positive on the power outlet. Is it the brown one or the white/purple one?

Thanks

[cmoore86]

Well I got my mixup in sub boxes corrected and finally ready to complete my install today. And as luck would have it my multimeter is not working. You wouldn’t happen to remember which wire was the positive on the power outlet. Is it the brown one or the white/purple one?

Thanks

Bummer! Unfortunately I dont have any memory of which wire I tapped. I used a multimeter to figure it out and it was probably 2 years ago since I did it. Wish my memory could help out! But I suspect its the white/purple wire. However if you are just using t-taps or something to tap into the wires, just try both and then leave the wire tap on the negative wire if you guess wrong at first. Wont harm anything to leave the wire tap on.

[KnightR]

Bummer! Unfortunately I dont have any memory of which wire I tapped. I used a multimeter to figure it out and it was probably 2 years ago since I did it. Wish my memory could help out! But I suspect its the white/purple wire. However if you are just using t-taps or something to tap into the wires, just try both and then leave the wire tap on the negative wire if you guess wrong at first. Wont harm anything to leave the wire tap on.

That was my back up plan I’ve got a couple clamps. Thought I would ask, no worries I wouldn’t have remembered if I did it myself a week later. Lol

[Joncoulson]

Bringing this back from the dead I would really like some info on this sub level input I have found the oem knob but can’t seam to find the actual filler piece the knob is in looks like a oem piece of anyone could give me some info I’d appreciate it. I PM’d the OP but no response. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/76986fb1f2a46654dacb536ada887707.jpg


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[PNW Avant]

Best I can find is this Cf piece

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/628206-oCarbon-com-carbon-fiber-coin-holder-delete-150-shipped

What is the button behind the cover?

[stapan]

I believe there is a parking brake switch from a right hand drive model that can fit there. It's been a while since I researched it but IIRC there was a way to order it from overseas.

[Cinimod]

I believe there is a parking brake switch from a right hand drive model that can fit there. It's been a while since I researched it but IIRC there was a way to order it from overseas.

From OP: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/653335-SQ5-few-pictures?p=10786284#post10786284

[Joncoulson]

Thanks guys.


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[vocabsr]

Hi, what did you use as a Line Output Converter and what did you use for your remote turn on?

[fallingreason]

Curious how people who have installed an active subwoofer in the trunk using the OEM subwoofer speaker signal wires have felt about the sound. Is the OEM low level filter to the stock subwoofer a good signal for an aftermarket sub? Is there a better signal to tap? the rest of the speakers are components so not sure there is a full range speaker that will work well for this in the Audi Concert system.

[BingBong]

Curious how people who have installed an active subwoofer in the trunk using the OEM subwoofer speaker signal wires have felt about the sound. Is the OEM low level filter to the stock subwoofer a good signal for an aftermarket sub? Is there a better signal to tap? the rest of the speakers are components so not sure there is a full range speaker that will work well for this in the Audi Concert system.

The sound quality from the subwoofer output isn't bad. It rolls off quite a bit below about 40Hz, but it plays subsonic frequencies all the way down to 20Hz. I have a Sundown competition sub in a 34Hz tuned box and it bangs the hell out of the car and sets off my neighbors car alarms. I use an LC2i to interface between the subwoofer signal and a Kicker amp, but if I had a direct connection to the amp inputs, I can only imagine a much cleaner signal. That being said, finding a good crossover point between the cabin speakers and the sub isn't a one size fits all. I turn the crossover on my amp all the way up, since the signal is already pre filtered and that blends well enough with the rest of the system to sound decent with different types of music.

If you can pull signal from the rear door speakers, they are full range and may give you more room for tuning the sound.