Engine cranks but wont start, no communication with ecu, fans on with ignition. [Archive]

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pape

01-01-2017, 11:49 AM

I am trying to diagnose a problem I have with my car. The car cranks but wont start. There is no power to the Fuel pump. My ECU wont communicate with VCDS nor Maestro7. VCDS communicates with all the other modules but not the ECU. I am 95% sure its the ECU that is faulty but, I want to get some other peoples opinions here. I really hope its not the ECU because It has the Maestro7 software married to the ECU.

How this happened... The car had been sitting for 3-4 months with a damaged transmission. Its not my daily and it gets very little use (2002 model with around 60K miles). however I do take the battery out charge it, and give it a full heat cycle every 2 weeks. So then one day I decided to stop been lazy and swap the broken transmission with a good working used unit. I have done this before, and since I have very little vac hoses and unneeded hardware everything went smooth as usual. I consider my self very experienced when it comes to working on this car. I did all the work my self, with no helper, on my back with only 2 jack stands and, one floor jack. When the transmission swap was finished, the car started right up. Idle was perfect but, a few seconds later I smelled fuel. The rubber fuel hose that connects the hard metal line on the firewall to the fuel rail (not OEM, its a cheap auto store fuel hose) had punctured and was spraying fuel on the firewall and, down under the transmission. I also left a big fuel stain on the floor, about 4' wide, so I did get things wet with fuel around that area. I cut a new hose, installed it,put in $10 of gas and, when for a spin.

Since the transmission was just installed I dint really force the car to much. My car has a lot of turbo lag thanks to a comp6262. I would get on it, let it build boost to 15-16psi and let off. I dint let it go full boost nor redline. The car was running perfect. AFR in check, EGTs in check, no misfires, and pulling strong. I made a stop at the grocery store got back in the car and it started fine. Then 10 min after leaving the store the engine stated bucking around 3000 RPMs @ %50 pedal input. when I tried again to give it some gas, same thing happened. It felt like it was not getting fuel. I pulled over opened the hood and checked for fuel leaks ect... I could not fine anything wrong, so I decided to head home. While driving back to the house, anything over 2500rpms the car would buck and, my A/F would go as high as 19.0 - 21.0 I got home shut it off and decided to take a closer look the next day. I honestly though I was the 044 fuel pump failing or the fuel pump relay.

The next day I go to start the car, and it wont start now. It cranks but no start. I also noticed no fuel pump prime, and that both fans would turn on, 3-4 seconds after you turn the key to the on position. I plug my VCDS and go to the engine module but, it wont connect. I try other modules and get connection. I then try to flash the ECU with Maestro7 and, it too wont connect to the ECU.

This happened about a week ago. I have had time to search and, try out different things. I found this thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/587125-DTC-01314-ECM-No-Communication-error-thread that was most helpful were Diagnosticator helped a guy that had a similar problem. I already did most things on the thread.

Here is what I have done so far...

Jumped the fuel pump from fuse 28, It works fine.
Opened and bench tested the Fuel pump relay, ECM relay, both work fine
Checked for water in ECU box. there has never been water in my ECU black plastic box.
Checked all fuses and positions,
Checked for (always on) 12v+ on pin 62 at the ECU connector, Checked all the way into the ECU board. there is a picture at the bottom.
Checked for switched power at ECU pin 3
Checked for good ground at ECU pins 1,2
Checked the ECU is not sending signal to the Fuel pump relay but when the relay socket is jumped the fuel pump works.
Did a visual inspection inside the ECU, see pictures.
C̶h̶e̶c̶k̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶e̶l̶a̶y̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶h̶e̶ ̶e̶c̶u̶ ̶b̶o̶x̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶s̶e̶n̶d̶ ̶p̶o̶w̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶e̶n̶g̶i̶n̶e̶ ̶m̶a̶n̶a̶g̶e̶m̶e̶n̶t̶ ̶f̶u̶s̶e̶s̶ ̶3̶0̶,̶3̶2̶ ̶I̶ ̶t̶h̶i̶n̶k̶.̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶e̶l̶a̶y̶ ̶w̶o̶r̶k̶s̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶i̶t̶s̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶ ̶g̶e̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶s̶i̶g̶n̶a̶l̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶c̶l̶o̶s̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶i̶r̶c̶u̶i̶t̶.̶ (EDIT)
J271 ECM power control relay works fine, It clicks with ignition on, 30power has 12v+. When the Ignition is on it closes the circuit and sends power out pins 87 & 87a

Does any one have any Ideas? what else I could try?

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/pins.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/pins.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2762.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2762.jpg.html)

old guy

01-01-2017, 12:49 PM

jpulll

01-01-2017, 01:50 PM

pape

01-04-2017, 12:53 AM

Sounds like a problem with your J271 ECM power control relay. Here are a few threads with some information that may prove useful: Clicky click1® (http://www.justanswer.com/vw-volkswagen/24acy-03-volkswagen-passat-code-po685-main-relay-j271-open-circuit.html) and Clicky click2® (http://volkswagen-polo-highline.blogspot.com/2015/09/ecm-power-relay-open-circuit.html)

And double check fuse #29.

I always liked your Clicky clicks, Thanks for the links I went over them and did some more tests today. The J271 ECM power control relay is working like it should. the 30 power line has 12v+. The switching ground signal to activate the solenoid is there when the ignition is ON, and it makes good contact to send the 12v+ to pins 87 & 87a. Fuse 29 is also fine and it get power with ignition ON.

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2842_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2842_1.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2830_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2830_1.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2831_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2831_1.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2832_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2832_1.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2833_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2833_1.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2844.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2844.jpg.html)

pape

01-04-2017, 12:57 AM

^ my suggestion as well. Sounds somewhat similar to what i went through a month back. No fuel pump prime, cranks but no start, fans running. Fuse #29 ended up being blown.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

When you say your fans were running, was this with the ignition on only? Or all the time even when the car was off and the keys in your pocket?

pape

01-04-2017, 01:21 AM

I also did some more testing, besides finding out the J271 ECM power control relay works fine. I played with the fuel pump relay a bit more. I had bench tested the Fuel pump relay 167 already, and I knew it worked fine. Today I cleaned the contacts and plugged it to the car without the case cover. When I pinch the FP relay forcing it to make contact. The fuel pump runs, so everything after the relay is fine. I did try starting the car pinching the relay but it wont start. When bench tested the FP relay works fine. There is 12v+ from the power 30, and the relay when pinched sends power to the pump. The problem is the signal to the FP relay. There are 2 pins on the relay to activate the solenoid/coil, (pins 85 & 86) one of those two has 12v+. The other that I think comes from the ECU (the smaller slot/pin on the relay) I could not reach to test for power. So far this is the only thing I could find that is not working correctly. Signal to the FP relay is not there.

The signal to the FP relay comes from the ECU from what I have read online. The fans turn on when the ignition is on when there is no read out of the coolant sensors. If there is no signal from crank/cam sensors the ECU will not power the FP or spark. All this makes me think the ECU is not working...

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2837_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2837_1.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2840_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2840_1.jpg.html)

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc439/Epardo1982/IMG_2838_1.jpg (http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/Epardo1982/media/IMG_2838_1.jpg.html)

rocket1420

01-04-2017, 01:48 AM

Power to 167 technically comes from the ECU relay, which is in the ECU box. I forget the number that's on it. I want to say 219.

Are you in Miami?

pape

01-04-2017, 02:01 AM

Power to 167 technically comes from the ECU relay, which is in the ECU box. I forget the number that's on it. I want to say 219.

Are you in Miami?

Hi Rocket1420, as soon as I saw you name I remember this quote from you on a similar thread...

First of all, test the relay and the socket to see if they're good. Pull the relay. There should be four slots in its socket. I can't remember which terminals off the top of my head, but one should have constant +12 volts, and another, I believe the horizontal one on top, should have +12 volts with the key on (and ONLY with the key on). If this is not true, then you will have to go in one direction. If it is true, then the relay is likely bad if the fuel pump fuse (28) is dead. Are you sure the fuse has the back probe terminals? I blew mine and the replacement fuse I bought didn't have them. Made me chase a non-existent problem for an hour before I realized. Are you sure you didn't blow the fuse?

You can also test the actual relay (126? 129? Memory isn't what it used to be-the fuel pump one on the far left). There's a diagram on it that tells you what to apply the voltage and ground to to make it click.

Power flows like this:
Battery (duh) -> ECU master relay (219, in the ECU box) -> fuel pump relay -> fuel pump fuse -> fuel pump.

Oh, forgot something. Make sure you check the fuel pump fuse when the engine is cranking. It will not necessarily have power when you just turn the key to the "on" position. Learned that one the hard way too.

I think that the power, the 12v+ that is supplied to the fuel pump might come from the 219 ECM relay, but not the signal to turn it ON the FP relay it self. I do have power at the relay and the power is sent to he FP when I pinch the relay it self. What is not there is the signal to the coil inside the relay to jump the 12v+ to the fuse 28 and fuel pump its self.

I am not in Miami any longer I live over seas for now...

rocket1420

01-04-2017, 02:07 AM

Yeah I didn't read your post correctly. Sorry. I would imagine, but don't know, that the ECU sends the signal directly.

I would also agree that your ECU is toast. Reason I asked your location was because you could've just grabbed an ECU at LKQ to see if that fixed the issue.

pape

01-04-2017, 02:21 AM

I think if I find a similar running car and pop in my ECU, then connect VCDS to the car. I could see if VCDS can read the ECU. If I get the same "cant connect to engine control module message" I then can make sure the ECU is toast.

The thing is if Its toast I now have to see what can be done about the maestro7 software that is married to that ECU.

pape

01-04-2017, 11:46 AM

ZimbutheMonkey

01-05-2017, 09:55 PM

just found this similar thread were OP had similar problems with a ECU with no water damage. It looks like it turn out to be the ECU for him. He could not communicate with the ecu, replaced the ECU and got the car running.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/299704-bad-ecu-or-fuel-pump

Yeah, I'm gonna go with FUBARED ECU. I buggered my ECU once trying to read it and the exactly the same thing happened. What gives it away for me is that the fans are running whenever you power on the ignition. It's the only time that's ever happened to me.

I would just:

1) Buy new spare ECU

2) pull your old ECU,

3) get Argdub's IMMO reading software off Nefmoto for free

4) rig up a bench flasher with an OBD 2 dongle and some wires and clips (or buy the bits for one from a junkyard) and get your immobilizer data off the ECU

5) rig up the same bench flasher and hook it up to the spare ECU, reprogam your IMMO chip on the new ECU with your old IMMO data and also change the bytes that I changed here to disable the IMMO on the new ECU (I know it seems redundant, but it allows you to get into the EEPROM data later on to reprogram it with the Nefmoto flasher later without putting it into bootmode). Here's the link for what bytes to change http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9030.60

6) Wait forever for Chris Tapp to respond to your email and remarry your Maestro to your new ECU.... [thumbdown]

pape

01-05-2017, 11:17 PM

Forgot to add my VCDS auto scan...

VIN: WAUZZZ8E33A175372 License Plate: 12345
Mileage: 107200km-66610mi Repair Order:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
67 69 75 76 77

VIN: WAUZZZ8E33A175372 Mileage: 107200km-66610miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 8E0 614 517 A
Component: ABS/ESP allrad 1726
Coding: 04275
Shop #: WSC 06435
VCID: 265D3F21C224B87293-515A

3 Faults Found:
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1850 - 35-00 - Missing Message from ECU
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30
35-00 - -
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1850 - 35-00 - Missing Message from ECU

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8E0 820 043 B
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 0712
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 20512939A0005642E9-515A

4 Faults Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113)
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time
27-00 - Implausible Signal

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
Part No: 8E0 907 279 E
Component: int. Lastmodul RDW 0305
Coding: 00011
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 3479D56904F8DAE21D-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.lbl
Part No: 8E0 959 655
Component: Airbag 8.4E 4001
Coding: 0010602
Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
VCID: 74F9156914789AE2DD-515A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 8E0 953 549 L
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0308
Coding: 02011
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 3C69FD492CA812A2D5-4B00

1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
Part No: 8E0 920 900 L
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D35
Coding: 01100
Shop #: WSC 09539
VCID: 2D4FC00DE7D28B2A52-515A
WAUZZZ8E33A175372 AUZ6Z0B0266216

5 Faults Found:
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
00438 - Fuel Supply Sensor 2 (G169)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-00 - No Communications
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl
Part No: 8E0 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw. 0504
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 6BCB0E151946451A0C-515A

2 Faults Found:
01463 - Alarm triggered by Sensor for anti-theft alarm System
81-00 - Open
01462 - Anti-theft alarm ultra sonic Sensor (G209)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8E0-959-433-MAX.lbl
Part No: 8E0 959 433 AH
Component: Komfortgerát T1B 0617
Coding: 06768
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 77E32265550EF1FAF8-4B00

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801B
Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0002

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802B
Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0002

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HL BRM 0002

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HR BRM 0002

5 Faults Found:
01703 - Footwell Lighting; Right (W10)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
01697 - Footwell Lighting; Rear Right (W46)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
01696 - Footwell Lighting; Rear Left (W45)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
01561 - Rear left door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent
01562 - Rear right door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 06:52)--------------------------

pape

01-05-2017, 11:31 PM

Yeah, I'm gonna go with FUBARED ECU. I buggered my ECU once trying to read it and the exactly the same thing happened. What gives it away for me is that the fans are running whenever you power on the ignition. It's the only time that's ever happened to me.

I would just:

1) Buy new spare ECU

2) pull your old ECU,

3) get Argdub's IMMO reading software off Nefmoto for free

4) rig up a bench flasher with an OBD 2 dongle and some wires and clips (or buy the bits for one from a junkyard) and get your immobilizer data off the ECU

5) rig up the same bench flasher and hook it up to the spare ECU, reprogam your IMMO chip on the new ECU with your old IMMO data and also change the bytes that I changed here to disable the IMMO on the new ECU (I know it seems redundant, but it allows you to get into the EEPROM data later on to reprogram it with the Nefmoto flasher later without putting it into bootmode). Here's the link for what bytes to change http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9030.60

6) Wait forever for Chris Tapp to respond to your email and remarry your Maestro to your new ECU.... [thumbdown]

Thanks for all that IMMO Info. I really looks like my ECU just crapped out of nowhere. Before I do all this, cant I just try to bench read my ECU with my VCDS cable? I am not familiar with the pins I need to plug, but I think all I need is a 12v power supply and some cables with plugs to connect the ecu>VCDS cable>laptop. I see in your link it explains some of this. I am going to go over it and see if I understand it. Thanks again.

badger.

06-12-2017, 09:22 AM

Did you ever resolve your issue? Have similar issues..

Schwebe

06-12-2017, 10:09 AM

When I had this issue it was because water got into the ECU box, fried my ECU and relays in the box. Replaced ECU and relays and everything was good from there!

pape

06-14-2017, 10:14 AM

Did you ever resolve your issue? Have similar issues..

Nope not yet. the car is still down. but I did buy a spare EBAY (different box number) ecu and connected it to the car. I should have done this from the beginning. The car, all the wiring and relays hours of testing ect. Would have all been avoided by just ordering a $50 ecu on ebay. The second I plugged the spare ECU, the fans stopped, my IMMO light turned on and, I was able to read the car over VCDS. Now I am waiting on a blue KKL cable to turn the IMMO off on the spare ECU, and do the soft coding over VCDS. That way I can test the spare ecu before sending both to Eurodyne.

At the end my ECU strated to crap out will driving, by the time I got home, the car would not start and there was no communication from the ECU. I dont know that caused it but it looks like the ECU software just got corrupted.

I do have a MPPS cable and could try to flash the stock ECU with Maestro7 a fresh .bin file, to try and see if it still works, but I don't want Eurodyne thinking I am trying to copy their software or something when they receive the ECU.

cmiguel32

06-14-2017, 01:52 PM

Nope not yet. the car is still down. but I did buy a spare EBAY (different box number) ecu and connected it to the car. I should have done this from the beginning. The car, all the wiring and relays hours of testing ect. Would have all been avoided by just ordering a $50 ecu on ebay. The second I plugged the spare ECU, the fans stopped, my IMMO light turned on and, I was able to read the car over VCDS. Now I am waiting on a blue KKL cable to turn the IMMO off on the spare ECU, and do the soft coding over VCDS. That way I can test the spare ecu before sending both to Eurodyne.

At the end my ECU strated to crap out will driving, by the time I got home, the car would not start and there was no communication from the ECU. I dont know that caused it but it looks like the ECU software just got corrupted.

I do have a MPPS cable and could try to flash the stock ECU with Maestro7 a fresh .bin file, to try and see if it still works, but I don't want Eurodyne thinking I am trying to copy their software or something when they receive the ECU.

I have the same symptoms when my flashing procedure goes wrong with Motoza software. It's due to a check-sum error.
What I do to fix this is disconnect the battery terminals and touch them to eachother for 30 seconds to drain all capacitance/voltage from the system. Reconnect battery cables to battery. ECU should then connect to tuning software and you'll be able to reload the tuning file.

pape

06-14-2017, 09:41 PM

I have the same symptoms when my flashing procedure goes wrong with Motoza software. It's due to a check-sum error.
What I do to fix this is disconnect the battery terminals and touch them to eachother for 30 seconds to drain all capacitance/voltage from the system. Reconnect battery cables to battery. ECU should then connect to tuning software and you'll be able to reload the tuning file.

I will try this to see if it works. Do yo do this with the ignition on or off?

cmiguel32

06-15-2017, 06:17 AM

I will try this to see if it works. Do yo do this with the ignition on or off?

Make sure your car is off. Disconnect battery terminals. Touch and hold them together (off of the battery) for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Reconnect terminals to the battery. Turn key ignition to ACC position. Attempt to connect to your software/laptop, reload tune. Once ECU is re-written, turn car off. Try to start.

EuroxS4

06-15-2017, 05:10 PM

pape

06-16-2017, 09:54 AM

Well I tried the shorting the battery terminals for 30sec and 1 min. Still the same, Maestro7 will does not see the ecu. I am going to try flashing a fresh "AK" bin. file in boot mode to the ecu and see if it gets recognized by vcds.

pape

06-16-2017, 09:59 AM

Fans coming on with ignition on normally dictates no communication with ecu this is a fails safe built into the control module.That being said anytime a ecu software revision is made checksums must be corrected otherwise you and brick your ecu.Any water in the ebox?? Also did you inspect all fuses and relays in the ebox??2 relays in the ebox are latching relays.Make sure both are being latched to power on the ecu.Once the ecu is on,the ecu sends signal to latch the fuel pump relay which primes the pump.If you have a weak relay or less than 12v it is possible there isn't enough juice to larch the relay.If all is good I would suspect ecu.However failure like this is very rare.Try powering ecu on bench see if it communicates with vcds.

I have a spare ECU now. When its connected to the car the fans no dot turn on. The IMMO light flashed, and I can communicate with VCDS. The cars wiring and relays are all fine. There was never water in the ECU box. The ECU just stopped working. My car is in good shape, it has under 60k miles and all the wiring is in good shape. I don't know why the ECU stopped working, but my next step is to flash the fubard ECU with a stock Bin. file to see if it can communicate with the car.

EuroxS4

06-16-2017, 10:13 AM

Worth a shot.You might need to flash the fubard ecu on the bench in boot mode.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 08:13 AM

Reading op and many comments i figured i have just same problem or at least similar.
Just bought the car, previous owner used it roughly and its pretty much ragged.but i bought it anyway cos i love audi.i aldouse the a4 b5 model.
Anyways i parked in garage and plan to fix little by little. Tyres, interior,exterior etc. Drove it. Down to my house myself. Noticed some misfire and hesitations so i fueled with petrol and it normalized but all lights on dashboard were on. Abs brake airbag esp coolant but then i parked in d garage and i read d codes with my autel obd tool and one other and i got the codes p0113 p0056 p0036 p0418.i erased the codes and reread but only p0113 kept coming up so i left and disconnected battery terminal as usual and i just warm car few minutes daily for 2days. I changed all 6 plugs replaced gear oil engine oil tyres connected abs and brake cables at front tyres and other beautifications.i parked thinking i will wash engine next day as i was tired latenight.so next morning i tried 2 start car but then it wont start tried all sorts still wont. Added fuel new battery cleaned nozzles wont start. I grabbed my autel obd and funny thing is it now displays linking error. Something that read codes previously now displays linking error. I called a friend far from me he told me to replace cam shaft sensor and it should start but it puzzles me. I live in nigeria and getting help around here is unrealistic. We are all mostly noobs. If i can get anyhelp. I will attach pictures including where i removed so called cam shaft sensor so any help i can get. As a noob i find it hard to understand some of the terms yall use e.g ECU so pls easy on me and pls explain things well 4me.

- - - Updated - - -

Can't atttach picture yet cos I'm newly registered

ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 08:21 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/bcf414a64de38c2f82c5f4c7b9342d4a.jpg

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ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 08:22 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/45e3a3c2c4b75b225dcb4f14445b1fc0.jpg

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ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 08:23 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/42f4762fccbc3a886c3bb8788c5c0b48.jpg

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ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 08:26 AM

Ok there u go

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ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 08:33 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/9774e92939ec8bf3c3f1551efce18daf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/be66643cb35db8e6caa9c094219b976f.jpg

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ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 08:34 AM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/8e233f725b60fe74bd955629ff3642a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/af7ce43f05eaf0bc0c5028b6fed47384.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170617/5b00fc07e91ee2c01f59e9dad995b9c3.jpg

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ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 09:00 AM

Update. I didnt do anything i just used scan tool again and it gave code p0686 and i erase and rescan and all codes gone but still wont start

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DarkoNova

06-17-2017, 01:42 PM

You should probably start your own thread, but your airbox is missing the ducting and your engine looks like you drive through a lake.

Does the engine even turn over?

ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 02:11 PM

Ok i will

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ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 02:11 PM

Whats the ducting. Do u have a picture

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DarkoNova

06-17-2017, 11:42 PM

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l356/HILLBILL83/My%20Cars/EngineBay4.jpg

The plastic in the lower left corner going from the airbox/filter to the front grill area.

Yours is missing and the engine is super dirty. I'd be worried that water might have gotten in there. Does it even crank when you try to start it?

ufkenedy

06-17-2017, 11:57 PM

Yes it cranks.

Got the cam shaft sensor fitted and wont start still. I checked fuel pump and i found a toyota fuel pump and doesnt return.im gonna change the pump but does anyone have part number of my pump or picture of what it looks like. I use audi a4 b6 Quattro 3.0 petrol engine 2001

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ufkenedy

07-04-2017, 05:38 AM

P0686 is my problem

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ufkenedy

07-04-2017, 05:39 AM

Ecm/pcm relay. Checked fuse29. No problem. But how do i locate this particular relay?

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pape

07-04-2017, 08:48 AM

Ecm/pcm relay. Checked fuse29. No problem. But how do i locate this particular relay?

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The ECM relay is located in the ECU box, under the ECU. its the black one that I have in my hand on post #4.

ufkenedy

07-04-2017, 01:40 PM

Thanks. Car starts now. Just cleaned relay. But i have TCL light on. Airbag light on. Brake light flashing all on cluster

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ufkenedy

07-04-2017, 01:44 PM

Brake fluids ok. But wen i press brake pedal. Red Brake lights doesn't come on at the back of car

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panman142

04-06-2019, 06:13 AM

OP, sorry for the thread revival. Did you ever sort out this issue? I am in a near 1 to 1 match of symptoms and running out of ideas to try.

jdct_b6

09-07-2019, 02:58 PM

OP, sorry for the thread revival. Did you ever sort out this issue? I am in a near 1 to 1 match of symptoms and running out of ideas to try.

also wondering if a solution is found. if I disconnect my battery and then reconnect it my car starts but this safe mode shits incredibly irritating either way. I've been working on pretty much the same exact issue for a while... new ignition switch couple of sensors that my car had thrown codes for, New battery, replaced the 219 relay.. I also pulled my ecu and brought it to a tuner that previously worked on the car and he tested it and it's completely fine. new keyfob programmed next maybe..? it runs and drives fine but sometimes safe mode kicks in while I'm driving and the words oil pressure pop up on the screen. I do have a small crack in my oil pan, it doesn't leak much, but the oil and oil pressure is fine..