THE Timing Chain Tensioner Failure Thread

[Spawne32]

The piston didn't move 1mm, the deepest part of the deepest dent is about 1mm. Yes, there will be a change in compression ratio after I remove the high spots from around the dents, but it will be insignificant. Ideally I'd replace the piston at least, if not all pistons, rings and bearings, but in order to drop the oil pan the block needs to come out, which I do not have the tools, nor talent for. There's a chance, maybe a high one, that the bottom end is toast and fails soon after I get it back together. If that happens I'll take it in and have the bottom end refreshed, or possibly swap in a newer motor. It's a big chance, but if I get lucky and the piston is okay then I save myself several thousand dollars. Even more when you consider that I will now never install a high flow cat or bigger intercooler.

If you don't have the talent or the tools, more specifically the talent, to remove the engine from this car, you shouldnt be making assumptions about how to repair it. However it's your car, and if it runs poorly after you get it back together that's on you.

[A4 Centaur]

^ I hope you don't have a bent wrist pin or small end journal because all that work and money will be blown after you try and start her up and get her revving.

I would strongly recommend that you take detailed measurements with a dial indicator and or run-out gauge before attempting reassembly. Those tools will save you precious money, time and headaches.

Best of luck!

[skywalker15]

The piston didn't move 1mm, the deepest part of the deepest dent is about 1mm. Yes, there will be a change in compression ratio after I remove the high spots from around the dents, but it will be insignificant. Ideally I'd replace the piston at least, if not all pistons, rings and bearings, but in order to drop the oil pan the block needs to come out, which I do not have the tools, nor talent for. There's a chance, maybe a high one, that the bottom end is toast and fails soon after I get it back together. If that happens I'll take it in and have the bottom end refreshed, or possibly swap in a newer motor. It's a big chance, but if I get lucky and the piston is okay then I save myself several thousand dollars. Even more when you consider that I will now never install a high flow cat or bigger intercooler.
I'm assuming you'd probably have most of the necessary tools to remove the block if you've gotten this far on your own ( you can always rent an engine lift, they aren't that costly). But hey, if you clean things up and take you're measurements and are willing to take the risk then I wish you the best lol.

Hope everything turns out man, keep us posted!

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[doowopaudi]

VAP Motorsports in Fort Myers, FL replaced my chain tensioner for $800. Only took half a day.
They really know what they are doing.

My 2010 is at AU Tuning in Huntington Beach, CA getting it done for $900. Not bad for preventative maintenance.

[wrp]

A local independent repair shop who has done many of these thinks it's caused by extended oil changes, which should be 5,000 to not more than 10,000 miles. And one website has an analysis of the original failing tensioner - apparently it needs oil pressure to build up tension on the chain, and the latest tensioners don't need the oil pressure since they have built in tension. So if your engine takes longer to build up oil pressure (because of low oil level caused by excess oil consumption or by bad oil) then the tensioner will not hold the chain, and it can easily jump or cause excess wear on the plastic guides.

[skywalker15]

A local independent repair shop who has done many of these thinks it's caused by extended oil changes, which should be 5,000 to not more than 10,000 miles. And one website has an analysis of the original failing tensioner - apparently it needs oil pressure to build up tension on the chain, and the latest tensioners don't need the oil pressure since they have built in tension. So if your engine takes longer to build up oil pressure (because of low oil level caused by excess oil consumption or by bad oil) then the tensioner will not hold the chain, and it can easily jump or cause excess wear on the plastic guides.
That could partially be a culprit, however the main cause of the tensioner failing is a mechanical failure with the notched backing plate. There's notches on the shaft of the tensioner that "ratchet" out and is prevented from compressing by a notched backing plate that's held in place by a metal sleeve. The point of the back plate is to prevent the tensioner from compressing when there is no oil pressure, such as at start-up. Once oil pressure builds then you're fine.

The issue arises when the notches become worn over time over many start-ups. If you can imagine, the very small back plate and small notches are being slammed into each other each time the engine starts until oil pressure builds. Over time the clip that holds the back plate and the notches themselves will wear out to the point that they no longer can prevent the tensioner shaft from compressing, thus causing a jump in timing.

When I replaced mine, I tried to manually compress the old shaft and you could see the clip had worn allowing play with the back plate. It was able to move out away from the shaft just enough to allow the shaft to compress, it was a stupid design. The new ones are purely mechanical and spring loaded so you no longer have a tiny little clip and backing plate keeping your engine from imploding [emoji28]

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[harrybinh]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161229/67f8cfdb02ea2ff2959bec691cd2cc40.jpg

Recently had a DIY day, replacing 2 tensioners on '10&'11 b8. Put the vehicles in service mode saved tons of time. Cost $250 for parts.


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[Jmstrag]

Does anyone know what the difference between the lower Tensioner 06H109467AR and 06H109467R is? The ECS kit includes the AR version but Genuineaudiparts lists the R version for my car? Which is the correct/latest revision for my car?

2009 A4

[fordyoz]

well, im joining the club here. went to the grocery store, came out to start the car and got nothing. loud, nasty sound when trying to start up. had it towed to my dealer who said the timing chain tensioner failed, valves bent, needs head, etc. ~$5,500. not sure if we will get the work done or not. service writer left a voicemail with the damage, and added that "its a lot to take it right now, maybe you want to trade it on. we also have a mechanic here who might be interested in buying it from you". gee thanks.

[Jmstrag]

well, im joining the club here. went to the grocery store, came out to start the car and got nothing. loud, nasty sound when trying to start up. had it towed to my dealer who said the timing chain tensioner failed, valves bent, needs head, etc. ~$5,500. not sure if we will get the work done or not. service writer left a voicemail with the damage, and added that "its a lot to take it right now, maybe you want to trade it on. we also have a mechanic here who might be interested in buying it from you". gee thanks.
Sorry to hear......what year? How much mileage did you have?

[adamazing]

Sorry to hear......what year? How much mileage did you have?

His wife's 2009 A4 @ ~75k miles according to another post.

[CONative]

A bit of a stupid question - and I think I already asked but can't find the post - if I do this preventatively - and assuming Audi loses the lawsuit - will I be reimbursed come time to submit paperwork? Did anyone on here have their engine rebuilt or replaced for peace of mind during the oil consumption lawsuit and get any $$ back from it?




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[Spawne32]

I didnt realize there was a suit actually in progress, from what I understood it was just being talked about.

[jfo]

I didnt realize there was a suit actually in progress, from what I understood it was just being talked about.

Yes, I believe this is still a work in progress and may never materialize. And if it does, it could be quite some time before it concludes with no assurance that it will succeed.

[mad_scientist]

Can anyone comment on how much the tensioner should move, if at all, during start up? I just watched mine with a mirror while my brother started it up. It appear to jiggle back and forth about 1/16th of an inch.


Also that piston damage up there would be a terrible idea to ignore. Besides crank damage, those high points will become hotspots due to uneven heat condution and will likely cause pre-ignition.

[The Infiltrator]

Can anyone comment on how much the tensioner should move, if at all, during start up? I just watched mine with a mirror while my brother started it up. It appear to jiggle back and forth about 1/16th of an inch.


Also that piston damage up there would be a terrible idea to ignore. Besides crank damage, those high points will become hotspots due to uneven heat condution and will likely cause pre-ignition.

Not sure if I missed it but at the end of the DIY, post #2 has the install specs.

Id' make sure you have this done correctly: "Torque the tensioner to: 85 Nm / 63 ft. lbs. Torque all guide rail bolts to: 20 Nm / 15 ft. lbs. / 177 in. lbs."

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/709550-DIY-Motor-work-Timing-tensioner-or-anything-with-the-motor-and-front-end?p=11655201&viewfull=1#post11655201

[gnxuser]

This thread is just making me depressed. I have 2012 with 44K on the clock, I am due for an oil change soon and I am going to check my tensioner. However I suspect that I will need to get this done this summer, I saw the DYI and I am certain that I will be paying someone to do it for me.

[mad_scientist]

Not sure if I missed it but at the end of the DIY, post #2 has the install specs.

Id' make sure you have this done correctly: "Torque the tensioner to: 85 Nm / 63 ft. lbs. Torque all guide rail bolts to: 20 Nm / 15 ft. lbs. / 177 in. lbs."

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/709550-DIY-Motor-work-Timing-tensioner-or-anything-with-the-motor-and-front-end?p=11655201&viewfull=1#post11655201

Ah i meant the plunger itself. Based on its design it seems like there should be some small range travel as the oil pressure builds up, and pushes against the chain, with the chain then pushing back until it reaches equilibrium.


This thread is just making me depressed. I have 2012 with 44K on the clock, I am due for an oil change soon and I am going to check my tensioner. However I suspect that I will need to get this done this summer, I saw the DYI and I am certain that I will be paying someone to do it for me.

68k on mine, this thread was the final straw. Ordered everything i needed last night. I dont even wanna start mine to get it into the garage.

[The Infiltrator]

Ah i meant the plunger itself. Based on its design it seems like there should be some small range travel as the oil pressure builds up, and pushes against the chain, with the chain then pushing back until it reaches equilibrium.

Hmm, you might want to shoot @Allowencer a PM and see if he may be of assistance on that one.

[b6onboost]

At least he's informing you of that option.

You've already taken a financial hit. Whether you decide to proceed with the rebuild, source another motor and have it installed, or trade the car as-is...you're probably looking at $5-6k in sunk cost. Some people will want their car fixed, others don't want to deal with the hassle. Some people have cash in hand to cover the cost, others don't, or would prefer it rolled into financial of another car to spread out the cost.

The best move is what's right for you.


not sure if we will get the work done or not. service writer left a voicemail with the damage, and added that "its a lot to take it right now, maybe you want to trade it on. we also have a mechanic here who might be interested in buying it from you". gee thanks.

[mad_scientist]

Hmm, you might want to shoot @Allowencer a PM and see if he may be of assistance on that one.


Thanks. Is he a certified Audi mechanic or tuner? My tensioner looks different than most ive seen pictures of online. It has the black ring so i know its older style but the plunger is matte silver instead of shiny, and the ring around it protrudes along the outside, rather than a channel milled into the plunger. Any comments on that?

[fordyoz]

Sorry to hear......what year? How much mileage did you have?


His wife's 2009 A4 @ ~75k miles according to another post.
correct

I didnt realize there was a suit actually in progress, from what I understood it was just being talked about.
I actually emailed one of the firms running one of the three class action suits. Basically the car is worth about $1,200 as is. His advice was that if I can wait, that I should simply store the car until the case is decided. If the people win, the repair costs could be covered. If Audi wins, then basically the car is still worth $1,200. Crazy to think how much it has depreciated since we bought it - even if it was running.


At least he's informing you of that option.
The best move is what's right for you.
yup, i took it as him hinting that getting the work done was probably not the best idea.
dealership offered to take it and give $1,000 towards a new audi lol

[A4x]

correct

I actually emailed one of the firms running one of the three class action suits. Basically the car is worth about $1,200 as is. His advice was that if I can wait, that I should simply store the car until the case is decided. If the people win, the repair costs could be covered. If Audi wins, then basically the car is still worth $1,200. Crazy to think how much it has depreciated since we bought it - even if it was running.


yup, i took it as him hinting that getting the work done was probably not the best idea.


Does the firm forsee this happeneing anytime soon (in 2017)???

[fordyoz]

Does the firm forsee this happeneing anytime soon (in 2017)???

i asked for a timeline, they said they cant say for certain, and that right now they are opposing VW's motion to dismiss the case.

[BMWManiac]

well, im joining the club here. went to the grocery store, came out to start the car and got nothing. loud, nasty sound when trying to start up. had it towed to my dealer who said the timing chain tensioner failed, valves bent, needs head, etc. ~$5,500. not sure if we will get the work done or not. service writer left a voicemail with the damage, and added that "its a lot to take it right now, maybe you want to trade it on. we also have a mechanic here who might be interested in buying it from you". gee thanks.

My response would be something along the lines of, why the hell would I want another Audi when you guys can't make an engine that lasts past 75k miles? Not even an option for a good will repair? I know its out of warranty, but maybe you could tell them that you know you're not an isolated issue? The fact that there is current litigation may help? Don't have to be a dick about it, but just tell them to be in your shoes and, as a customer, how they would react?

[fordyoz]

My response would be something along the lines of, why the hell would I want another Audi when you guys can't make an engine that lasts past 75k miles? Not even an option for a good will repair? I know its out of warranty, but maybe you could tell them that you know you're not an isolated issue? The fact that there is current litigation may help? Don't have to be a dick about it, but just tell them to be in your shoes and, as a customer, how they would react?

the service writer said this isnt a common problem and they have only seen a couple of cases like this in the past 10 months. lol

[BMWManiac]

the service writer said this isnt a common problem and they have only seen a couple of cases like this in the past 10 months. lol

And again, my response would be.....you've seen A COUPLE of cases like this in the past 10 months? That alone would sound like a lot. If you were the ONLY case ever at that dealership, ok....

[SnowRoad]

Is this only for 09-13 TFSI engines? If so, is the design different for 14+ engines? I haven't been able to find any info that specifically states what years are impacted by this crappy design.

[gnxuser]

68k on mine, this thread was the final straw. Ordered everything i needed last night. I dont even wanna start mine to get it into the garage.

I see that you are in NJ, and are you doing it yourself? I am going to start shopping around to see how much it will cost me. I am not averse to DYI (I did timing belt on my MKV GTI), but this one just scares me.

[DPD314]

I see that you are in NJ, and are you doing it yourself? I am going to start shopping around to see how much it will cost me. I am not averse to DYI (I did timing belt on my MKV GTI), but this one just scares me.

I got mine done in Clifton - believe it cost $3-4 hundred at Drive Auto. Good luck. I did mine for the peace of mind around 80k.

[fordyoz]

FYI - spoke with a service manager and he escalated it to AoA. They are going to cover the cost of the fix. But for some reason, they wont cover the cost of replacing the thermostat. If the car jumps timing, would this be a related part that should be fixed?

[elscotto80]

FYI - spoke with a service manager and he escalated it to AoA. They are going to cover the cost of the fix. But for some reason, they wont cover the cost of replacing the thermostat. If the car jumps timing, would this be a related part that should be fixed?
That's pretty great that AoA is picking up the tab. Regarding the thermostat, I would just pay that and be happy you are getting a rebuilt motor. The thermostat cost can't be that much compared to what it's going to cost Audi to fix your motor.

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[fordyoz]

That's pretty great that AoA is picking up the tab. Regarding the thermostat, I would just pay that and be happy you are getting a rebuilt motor. The thermostat cost can't be that much compared to what it's going to cost Audi to fix your motor.

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true, im very happy.
thermostat replacement quoted @ ~$850

[Spawne32]

true, im very happy.
thermostat replacement quoted @ ~$850

because they are probably replacing the water pump as well lol did they give you part numbers of what is to be replaced? My water pump replacement was just under a grand.

[fordyoz]

because they are probably replacing the water pump as well lol did they give you part numbers of what is to be replaced? My water pump replacement was just under a grand.
for sure would hope they do water pump and thermostat. they are probably quoting me so much because they are quoting a regular water pump/thermo replacement. the car is already going to be dissembled..it should be cake to just drop this in during the head repair.

[SMFD21]

This thread is just making me depressed. I have 2012 with 44K on the clock, I am due for an oil change soon and I am going to check my tensioner. However I suspect that I will need to get this done this summer, I saw the DYI and I am certain that I will be paying someone to do it for me.

Honestly I wouldn't worry about the tensioner on the 2012 models. There have only been one or two documented failures. Also, most 2012 models use the A/B model tensioner, which I believe was only used in the 2012 models.

[misterpepper]

I finally have all my parts and have begun putting everything back together. The timing chain nationwide recall delayed my parts for over a month. I've run into a problem, though, I can't see how to position the exhaust manifold correctly. There aren't any pins or alignment marks to make sure that the ports and runners line up perfectly. My problem is that the lower clamping blocks are wedge shaped so the more you tighten them the higher it raises the manifold. I can force the manifold all the way down and tighten the top nuts first to hopefully hold it there, but I don't know if this is correct. I'm hoping somebody can chime in so I don't have to start taking things apart again to measure and mark the ideal position.

[misterpepper]

Well, it runs again. That was an epic project. I need to track down why my A/C compressor won't kick on anymore, but it's probably related to the fact that the larger of the two cooling fans was broken so I removed it before putting the front end back together. I only have about 50 miles on the car so far and I haven't flogged it yet, but it seems to be running great.

[Robstar]

I had my 2009 A4 receive a rebuild courtesy of Pfaff Audi here in Toronto in June 2015 at 105K KM for an oil consumption issue.

The car ran great until a few weeks ago. It stalled in the middle of an intersection, after having a funny idle for a day. The check engine light wasn't on, and I had filled up with some shady gas the day before so I didn't think anything of it.

Pulled the codes after I had it towed and it was evident what happened.

The dealership did replace the tensioner with a new revised one when the oil consumption repair was done, but they did not replace the chain according to my service records.

I have not contacted the dealership about it yet. I have pulled it all apart myself as I am really strapped for cash at the moment due to some other unfortunate circumstances that financially set me back not too long ago.

I am awaiting a mechanic friend to come look for himself to be my certified professional voice when I approach them about what I have found.

What did I find?

The chain is the culprit here. Not the tensioner. Its so far stretched that the tensioner is FULLY EXTENDED. I cant even turn the engine over by hand right now even after realigning it all back up without the intake cam skipping. Not only that, but its so far stretched, that the pitch is now different, making it impossible to even line up all the timing marks.



this is what the tensioner looks like relaxed and fully extened
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0285_zpsjfofsln8.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0285_zpsjfofsln8.jpg.html)


this is what the tensioner looks like on the car, as you can see, the locking grooves on the shaft are past the retaining clip, which is supposed to not allow the piston to retract during start up when there is no oil pressure. It is fully extended.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0287_zps5sufravu.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0287_zps5sufravu.jpg.html)


Another look at it all, as you can see, the chain is extremely long in this picture, as not only is the tensioner all the way extended, but the gap, between the chain in the loop, is very small, you can only see one link of the balancer shaft chain in that pic, when normally you can see three links in the gap in the middle.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0289_zpsjjomafqr.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0289_zpsjjomafqr.jpg.html)

Im so pissed I bought this car, its been nothing but trouble. Besides these major catastrophic failures, its been nickle and diming me with all the little things that are going wrong all at once too. Total lemon.

Make sure you replace these old revision chains folks.

[Robstar]

Also.................F*ck

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0284_zps3wlb3dws.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0284_zps3wlb3dws.jpg.html)

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0291_zpspp46rwt0.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0291_zpspp46rwt0.jpg.html)

[Captain Amazing]

Wow, these engines really are a POS. Funny how I decided not to go for a 335i because I heard they could be a maintenance nightmare. But these A4's are even worse. Guess it's my fault for not doing enough research on this car before buying it. I have a 2010 with 107k kms that I've had for a year, I replaced the tensioner but now I have to worry about the chain too? Great.

[Robstar]

POS is right.

Anyone who thinks German engineering is superior, has never dealt with German engineering.

Two weeks after this happened to me, a friend with an A3 calls me. His chain BROKE. Hes dealing with the same nightmare as me right now.

[jfo]

Robstar, did you avoid damage to the valves, etc? My tensioner was done along with pistons at 55k km. I'm only at 75k now, but will plan to pop open the tensioner inspection port from time to time to check the extension.

[Robstar]

Robstar, did you avoid damage to the valves, etc? My tensioner was done along with pistons at 55k km. I'm only at 75k now, but will plan to pop open the tensioner inspection port from time to time to check the extension.

Not sure, it was out four teeth. Likely kissed the pistons.

Im installing a new chain and doing a compression test before removing the head.

[jfo]

Not sure, it was out four teeth. Likely kissed the pistons.

Im installing a new chain and doing a compression test before removing the head.

Might be able to see any visible marks on the pistons with a scope through the plug holes why you're in there. Good luck!

[Captain Amazing]

Seriously, I came from a Mazdaspeed 6 and that had a great engine. All I ever did maintenance wise was oil changes and spark plugs. It handled all my go fast bits like a champ as well. Not sure if I want to keep this car or trade it in before something else goes wrong.

[Robstar]

So my friend mechanic just came by my work where the car is to take a look. He works on all kinds of high end cars, specializing in porsche.

He said he has never in his 30 years in the trade, seen anything like this. This worries me. Im beginning to wonder if that little screen got tangled up in the cam journals causing extreme friction and force on the chain.

We did a quick calculation. The chain has 85 links. Each link would have to stretch over .005" (thats one and 2/3 the size of a human hair) Im a machinist by trade, and .005 is a lot to stretch, considering these are hardened and lubricated. The chain is WELL OVER HALF AN INCH STRETCHED!!!

I HATE this car. I cannot WAIT to sell it.

[jfo]

So my friend mechanic just came by my work where the car is to take a look. He works on all kinds of high end cars, specializing in porsche.

He said he has never in his 30 years in the trade, seen anything like this. This worries me. Im beginning to wonder if that little screen got tangled up in the cam journals causing extreme friction and force on the chain.

We did a quick calculation. The chain has 85 links. Each link would have to stretch over .005" (thats one and 2/3 the size of a human hair) Im a machinist by trade, and .005 is a lot to stretch, considering these are hardened and lubricated. The chain is WELL OVER HALF AN INCH STRETCHED!!!

I HATE this car. I cannot WAIT to sell it.
You may get this already...as I understand it, the chain doesn't "stretch" per se, but elongates as the link pins wear. This chain has lots of links and if they have a tendency to wear, it will slowly add up. Or in our case, not so slowly! The chain has been updated, so I'm assuming they have addressed this with the new design.

[SMFD21]

I like how Audi can "address" our problems once our warranties are over by providing revisioned replacement parts that were never supposed to fail in the first place.

[Robstar]

I'll have a new OEM chain in my hands by lunch time Monday. I'll report back with comparison pictures.

[misterpepper]

In addition to putting mine back together with the damaged piston I also put it back together sans the filter screen on the cam bridge. I found my dislodged screen bit, though. I second sending a scope down to look at the pistons. I could see marks on mine where the valves hitting them had scraped away the carbon. Btw, my chain with 130k miles and a catastrophic engine failure wasn't nearly that far stretched, so it may be a bad batch. My tensioner looked fine through the inspection hole.

[Robstar]

Yeah, I just cannot fathom "how" it got so bad.

I'll grab a scope, thank you kindly for the tips gentlemen.

[CharlieBrown]

anyone have the torque spec for the 2 tensioner bolts?

[Militant-Grunt]

Wow, these engines really are a POS. Funny how I decided not to go for a 335i because I heard they could be a maintenance nightmare. But these A4's are even worse. Guess it's my fault for not doing enough research on this car before buying it. I have a 2010 with 107k kms that I've had for a year, I replaced the tensioner but now I have to worry about the chain too? Great.

They're really not, I'm always hard pressed to upsell anything on CAEB B8's. Most cam bridges and chain tensioners have been replaced, or are replaced during the piston ring replacement. Seeing that ALL 2009-2011's need that, there's really a low amount of people that go the distance to actually have a tensioner fail on them. I have yet to see one come into our dealership for that.

[Militant-Grunt]

anyone have the torque spec for the 2 tensioner bolts?

9NM.

http://i.imgur.com/omr4Ct3.png

1 - Bolt - 9 Nm

2 - Chain Tensioner
Is under tension
Remove the -T40011- before removing

3 - Timing Chain Tensioning Rail

4 - Guide Pin - 20 Nm

5 - Bolt - 9 Nm

6 - Control Valve 35 Nm
Left thread

q Depending on the version, remove with either the -T10352- or -T10352/1A-

7 - Bolt - 20 Nm +90° turn
Replace

8 - Washer

9 - Bearing Bracket

10 - Camshaft Timing Chain Guide Rail

11 - Camshaft Housing

12 - Camshaft Timing Chain

q Before removing, mark the direction of rotation with paint

13 - Camshaft Timing Chain Guide Rail

14 - Guide Pin - 20 Nm

15 - Three Stage Chain Sprocket

[CharlieBrown]

Thanks for the fast response. Just finished replacing my tensioner.
Old
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170206/ac10c80d6920d24e82f92f1551e36152.jpg
New
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170206/0275e474e97394e5eeb989fcc293b513.jpg


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[fatkids]

Are all model years affected by this timing chain tensioner? Looking to trade by B7 6spd for a B8.5 AT so the wifey can drive it and i want to know if this issue affects all model years or only certain years?

[JinDIS]

Are all model years affected by this timing chain tensioner? Looking to trade by B7 6spd for a B8.5 AT so the wifey can drive it and i want to know if this issue affects all model years or only certain years?

B8.5, should be fine; it's the B8 generation that has all of the problems

This is one of the more comprehensive threads of the problems with B8 and the revisions made through the years
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/681660-B8-B8-5-Buyer-s-Guide-and-quot-Looking-to-buy-quot-Question-Thread

[paulxxwall]

Had my b8 rebuilt for oil consumption and asked the to please replace chain and tensioner and they did all under extended warranty only actually cost me after diagnosis 130$!


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[Fabio240]

So.......great reading here........I am getting stage 2 done now, and the service guy asked if I wanted the tensioner and new chain put in. He said it was good preventative maintenance. He quoted me 320$ for parts. After reading this post I said yes please!!! My question is now, what about the water pump? Does that need to get replaced and if so when? The whole engine is out now, so I'm trying to do anything I can to prevent issues in the future. I have a 2010 A4 with 75k miles on it. I didn't see anyone talking about the pump so I figure I bring it up....

[Helobubba]

I have a 2012 A4 that needed a new water pump at 75,000 miles.

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[misterpepper]

'09 with new water pump needed at 105k miles. I did it myself, but it was not a fun job. There is a special tool necessary if you replace the belt, which I cut to make removal of the pump easier and because I had a replacement belt on hand. I had to "make" my own special tool, which added significant frustration to the project.

[JBAeroEngineer]

I have a 2012 A4 that needed a new water pump at 75,000 miles.

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They found mine leaking and replaced as well. 2010, 72k

[CONative]

What's the average going rate for a new water pump if you're out of warranty? What are you guys paying?


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[Robstar]

Update

I installed a new chain and that fixes the tensioner issue, as it was compressed like it should be. Side by side the difference was 1/4" but multiply that by two and theres the half inch stretch you see in the pics.

Unfortunatly, I need six intake valves as the engine made no compression on three cylinders.

I have taken the head off, and replaced the valves. The tops of the pistons look fine, I can barely see the ding marks, so I think everything is fine there.

New valves
new gaskets
new hardware
new chain

and a lot of heartache..................

Ill have it all back together this weekend hopefully.

what the tensioner looks like with the new chain, all is good.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0300_zpsbgehs8us.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0300_zpsbgehs8us.jpg.html)


no huge visible marks on pistons, just kiss marks in the carbon
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0319_zpshg7zizrr.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0319_zpshg7zizrr.jpg.html)


this thing would be super easy to take off if there wasnt a damn turbo.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0321_zpszngri1wh.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0321_zpszngri1wh.jpg.html)


the damage, this is the worst of them.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0324_zpshvojfttp.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0324_zpshvojfttp.jpg.html)

[Robstar]

The head is still pretty flat so I decided to just clean it up rather than mess with it for no reason so I didn't machine it.

New valves lapped and installed. No leaks and ready to bolt on shortly.

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0344_zpsar9r08ad.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0344_zpsar9r08ad.jpg.html)

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0345_zpswhh5xhsc.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0345_zpswhh5xhsc.jpg.html)

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Robstar666/IMG_0347_zpsa5majjol.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Robstar666/media/IMG_0347_zpsa5majjol.jpg.html)

[jfo]

Robstar, what's the km's and how does the carbon buildup in the intake look?

[Robstar]

Robstar, what's the km's and how does the carbon buildup in the intake look?


The engine had the oil consumption done at 105K KM. I had the carbon cleaning done at the same time, which was june 2015

I obviously cleaned it again, but it wasn't too bad. The car now has 147k KM

[jfo]

This is just an FYI. While under the car today I took a look at my tensioner extension through the inspection port. It was replaced 2 years ago with the K version. After Robstars extreme stretch problem, I was curious about mine. At 78K km (49K M) I have roughly half of his km's. I was happy to see that I'm only one notch further extended than his tensioner with a new chain. The edge of the black metal part is above the 3rd ridge compared to Robstars at about the 2nd ridge as per his pic's.
This is a very easy and quick check to do if you're curious about how far the tensioner has extended, indirectly indicating the degree of chain wear. His tensioner was fully extended with 10 notches showing when it failed.(chain, not tensioner)

[mortimersnerd]

Definitely interested. Where is the inspection port?

[A4x]

They're really not, I'm always hard pressed to upsell anything on CAEB B8's. Most cam bridges and chain tensioners have been replaced, or are replaced during the piston ring replacement. Seeing that ALL 2009-2011's need that, there's really a low amount of people that go the distance to actually have a tensioner fail on them. I have yet to see one come into our dealership for that.

Mine is a 2011, I had oil consumption problems but the stage 1 new PCV, crank seal, and software seemed to fix that. I am worried about my cam bridge screen floating around in the engine, and the tensioner granading one day. I have 113k km.


Definitely interested. Where is the inspection port?

I second this. A short DIY to inspect the tensioner? Do we remove the belly pan and go from underneath?

[jfo]

Mine is a 2011, I had oil consumption problems but the stage 1 new PCV, crank seal, and software seemed to fix that. I am worried about my cam bridge screen floating around in the engine, and the tensioner granading one day. I have 113k km.



I second this. A short DIY to inspect the tensioner? Do we remove the belly pan and go from underneath?

Here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G65J1aEszyc

Yes, from underneath. Just pry the cover out, use a mirror and flashlight. The cover is a bit stiff, so to get it back in I seated it in the hole and then tapped it home with a breaker bar....not much room to press it in.

[jfo]

Mine is a 2011, I had oil consumption problems but the stage 1 new PCV, crank seal, and software seemed to fix that. I am worried about my cam bridge screen floating around in the engine, and the tensioner granading one day. I have 113k km.



You have the old version and should definitely replace it. Not cheap but way better than the alternatives. Thankfully my dealer swapped mine out when the stage 2 oil fix was done.

[TheOriginal]

Did the revised tensioner completely resolve the issue?

What is the part number for the latest revision?

[jfo]

Did the revised tensioner completely resolve the issue?

What is the part number for the latest revision?

It appears to have solved it. Look at the pic's in post #306 for the old and new version. They are visually different and the new version has K in the upper corner.

[b8tamaster]

Finally getting timing chain kit and tensioner installed on my 2010 tomorrow. After 118,xxx miles, it's time. Also having new water pump and thermostat done, as well as new oil pump chain and tensioner.

I plan on driving the wheels off this thing so I figure I should be good for quite a while with major maintenance. I'm looking forward to the piece of mind. Ever since I hit 100K miles I wince every time I start the car.

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[TheOriginal]

Just popped the inspection cover off... it sure was a booger to get back on.

Mine is a build date Oct 2010 (2011 model) and i was definitely able to see that I have the old version. Good thing I already have a service lined up. I'm at 96k miles. Going to replace the chain while we are in their also.

[jfo]

Just popped the inspection cover off... it sure was a booger to get back on.

Mine is a build date Oct 2010 (2011 model) and i was definitely able to see that I have the old version. Good thing I already have a service lined up. I'm at 96k miles. Going to replace the chain while we are in their also.

if you are able, please have the tech compare the chains for the amount of stretch. It would be an interesting reference point at your mileage. I'm about 50% of yours and have what appears to be minimal stretch so far, based on what I see with tensioner extension.

[TheOriginal]

Ill check since Ill be helping. You have less than 50k miles?

[jfo]

Ill check since Ill be helping. You have less than 50k miles?

Yes, just under 50K.

[red_stang65]

TheOriginal, how much are they quoting you for your 96k service + tensioner? I'm in the same boat right now.


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[IHave2Turbos]

Has anyone had any luck getting AoA to refund their service cost for pre-emptively changing the tensioner?

I understand the multiple class action suits revolve around people who had catastrophic engine failure to the tune of $5-6k bills.

I didn't want that to happen so opted to pay out of pocket to get the Timing Bomb removed on my own dime.

If so could you please outline your approach in receiving reimbursement for a self initiated repair/relief from this now well known issue?

[CONative]

I've asked about this on 2 separate occasions and never got a response. I'm with you in I want the peace of mind, but curious if we'll need to wait on the outcome of the suit to be reimbursed - which I think the answer would be yes


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[JBAeroEngineer]

Yeah, you're going to need to wait. AoA isn't going voluntarily do anything to jeopardize outcomes and money.

[Marko S]

Im also not sure if preventative maintenance would be covered. It would be hard to prove that there could have been a failure and that replacement was necessary. I did mine last year and have all the receipts so im hoping for the best. They might end up narrowing it down by manufacturing date.

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[TheOriginal]

Im in utah and their is a facebook group for Audi owners. One of the most active and reputable members does repairs on the side and i set up an appointment with him. Soooo what he is charging me is less than half of what a shop/dealership would charge. Thats also why I will also be getting my hands dirty/learning. We are changing out the chain, tensioner, and a few guides for less than $900.

[eirebob]

Had my tensioner work done last week... I'm just over 97K. Cost with a few other minor issues was not quite $1200.

Being an 09, the piston rings remain an issue, but I burn at about one qt per 4k. It's been consistent since the stage 1 work and follow up test at about 60k.

[wmcinnes]

And another one bites the dust...
2012 A4 w/165,000 kms
Timing Chain Tensioner failed and cratered the engine.

Wish I had seen these threads earlier. What a piss off.
Not sure what I am going to do now. Looks like there aren't any good used engines in Western Canada at this moment.

[IHave2Turbos]

sorry about your loss is there any way you can provide the list with your tensioner part number. The prevailing wisdom around the boards was that the 2012's were "safe"...


And another one bites the dust...
2012 A4 w/165,000 kms
Timing Chain Tensioner failed and cratered the engine.

Wish I had seen these threads earlier. What a piss off.
Not sure what I am going to do now. Looks like there aren't any good used engines in Western Canada at this moment.

[wmcinnes]

Pretty sure my manufacture date was September 2011 but car is a 2012

[Jmstrag]

To the guys who have already had this done...... was the timing chain cover also replaced? I've heard reusing the old cover can potentially lead to oil leaks. The new cover adds another $200 to the cost in parts, so I'm wondering how necessary it really is. Will it be fine with just replacing the gasket on the cover?

[Marko S]

To the guys who have already had this done...... was the timing chain cover also replaced? I've heard reusing the old cover can potentially lead to oil leaks. The new cover adds another $200 to the cost in parts, so I'm wondering how necessary it really is. Will it be fine with just replacing the gasket on the cover?
It depends on how the old one is removed. If there is no damage or if its not bent you can reuse it. With that said i replaced mine. $200 dollars is less than labout costs to redo it if it leaks

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[Jmstrag]

It depends on how the old one is removed. If there is no damage or if its not bent you can reuse it. With that said i replaced mine. $200 dollars is less than labout costs to redo it if it leaks


Good point, i'm just gonna order it as well. just for peace of mind. I just asked my buddy who is an Audi technician, he said they normally install a new lower cover and just replace the gasket on the upper cover.

[pierreb]

Yep, replace it.

[ians]

I just bought my 11 avant 2 month ago with 75000km on it and have 4yr audi used car warranty up to 140000km. It is 81000km now and it didn't show any kind of oil consumption issue yet. So should I do the pre-emptively tensioner work? Or any sign to tell my tensioner is going to give up? Will that cover by warranty?

[IHave2Turbos]

The general consensus has been absolutely zero forewarning until the tensioner blows.

If people have different info please provide here but most people have stated things like "I just got in, tried to start the car and got the CEL" at that point it is too late and the valves have already bent.

The faulty designs of the originally tensioners was that they relied upon oil pressure and obviously you have little to no oil pressure upon startup.

[tomc585]

The general consensus has been absolutely zero forewarning until the tensioner blows.

If people have different info please provide here but most people have stated things like "I just got in, tried to start the car and got the CEL" at that point it is too late and the valves have already bent.

The faulty designs of the originally tensioners was that they relied upon oil pressure and obviously you have little to no oil pressure upon startup.
Both style tensioners use oil pressure to take up the slack, the retainer spring clip (which holds a locking tab in teeth) prevents the tensioner from going back in during oil pressure reduction with engine shut down. Most Fault lies in the retainer spring clip either breaking or moving out of position or lack of oil maintenance resulting in a clogged or restricted oil inlet to the tensioner. This video may explain it better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAdSyBRHOPs

[schubby333]

So my question is... if there's no warning or signs of a bad chain, can I get AOA to replace it with my CPO (certified pre-owned) warranty? Anyone have any luck going down this route?

[A4x]

Does the oil pressure remain in the engine for some time after shutting down? I have heard that oil pressure can still be there for a few hours...is this true?

So when going to get groceries, do I have to worry about my tensioner blowing in the grocery store parking lot? Or is it just on cold starts?

Unbelievable that I have to worry about this when owning an Audi. I hope this class action goes through soon. Im in a 2011 sitting at 75000 miles. I plan to change the tensioner eventually...(famous last words) sure hope not. Still CPO for 1 more month (but running APR stage II).

[IHave2Turbos]

as @tomc585 said the new design fixes/prevents the piston or whatever you want to call it from going back (ie getting loose).

I don't remember exactly which TSB or article I saw but basically if you look through the lower timing case inspection port and can see 2 or 3 "teeth" then the chain is OK.

But still change the tensioner if you have the earlier revision parts.

If you see 5,6,7+ teeth then the chain is stretched and you must replace that as well.

[Stix]

Another for list...
Mine's a Q5, MY'12, P+, 2.0T, CAEB, 68,900 mi. (majority hwy.), build date 3/2012.
Well maintained at or before schedule, oil change every 5000mi., no consumption issue, zero leaks, zero problems, runs like new, no CEL...blah blah..

Last week we checked ...it has the new version tensioner but determined the chain's at about '6'. Damn !
I travel, not interested in gambling on the road, so it gets opened up next week. Doing a new timing chain, tensioner, timing guides, cam adjuster control valve...for starters ? Having him check pistons and whatever else makes sense at the time.

Gonna be a salty bill, insane this is happening at this mileage ! Audi says no warranty, 'nothing we can do till a CEL shows'. Yeah, good idea, let's all wait till it blows. Morons.

[TJet1.8]

My understanding is that early 2012's still had the old timing chain/tensioner revision.
Anything with a build date after 3/2012 got the new timing chain/tensioner.

So yes...2012's are still susceptible to the timing chain issue.

[timob]

And it looks, in answer to the March question, is that in terms of any warranty, if you are within warranty and the engine self destructs as a first symptom they replace the whole thing, if it just rattles or the hole shows many teeth a week before expiration, you're on your own and you gamble on beating the reaper. Someone has posted a geek's trick to throw a turbo code for that warranty--is there one for this?

[choppstixxx]

Relatively new to the forum, but know about the TCT issue in the B8's. I recently bought a 2013 B8.5 (7/12 build date), would I be safe to assume I don't have the TCT issue?

[NJRoadFan]

My early build MY2013 was assembled 4/2012...... hopefully the change to the flex fuel engine included the revised tensioner.

[audiAYYY4]

2010 A4 here with 78k miles. Unfortunately, I did not get a new tensioner when stage 2 oil consumption was done in 2013 (wasn't even asked about it and didn't know it was an issue).

Dealership quoted $1300 just for labor, and this is beyond me to replace. I wonder on a weekly basis if I should part with this car or put up $2k to fix this. If this were the only fix and the car would be perfectly dependable afterward then I'd quickly be on board. However, that may be a bit naive for a high mileage Audi. Been chasing several problems this past year already.

Will follow the suit with great interest!

[peterjedi]

Didn't read all the messages in this thread, not sure if anyone mentioned the oil, but I recently bought my car to an Audi certified engineer for some after market work. He told me besides any design flaws with the engine (fixed or not), the oil Audi recommends is 0w40 (better gas mileage) which can cause problems around the warrantee period. This is a very thin oil. A lot can seep through the pistons. Over time this can cause stress to the timing chain and possibly break it. Plus Audi and BMW have been pushing for longer oil changes, like >= 10k. You could be going to all your scheduled maintenance and still run into a problem just before and after the warrantee period.

My Audi engineer recommend changing the oil every 5k and use 10w30 rather than 0w40. Engines that have 10k oil changes show lots of metal shavings, while engines that change every 5k were clean. I did search on google and found an old engine with 5k oil changes and it was in exceptional condition.

Just something to think about!

[jfo]

Didn't read all the messages in this thread, not sure if anyone mentioned the oil, but I recently bought my car to an Audi certified engineer for some after market work. He told me besides any design flaws with the engine (fixed or not), the oil Audi recommends is 0w40 (better gas mileage) which can cause problems around the warrantee period. This is a very thin oil. A lot can seep through the pistons. Over time this can cause stress to the timing chain and possibly break it. Plus Audi and BMW have been pushing for longer oil changes, like >= 10k. You could be going to all your scheduled maintenance and still run into a problem just before and after the warrantee period.

My Audi engineer recommend changing the oil every 5k and use 10w30 rather than 0w40. Engines that have 10k oil changes show lots of metal shavings, while engines that change every 5k were clean. I did search on google and found an old engine with 5k oil changes and it was in exceptional condition.

Just something to think about!

This doesn't really make sense. A 0 W oil is only thinner at cold temps. A 0W-40 will be thinner at cold start up temps, which is desirable, but stay more viscous at operating temp than 5W-30. This is basic oil chemistry. The shavings comment also seems questionable based on reading results of various oil analysis tests. Out of habit I do change mine at 5-6K, but don't feel it's risky to extend this somewhat.

[jfo]

2010 A4 here with 78k miles. Unfortunately, I did not get a new tensioner when stage 2 oil consumption was done in 2013 (wasn't even asked about it and didn't know it was an issue).

Dealership quoted $1300 just for labor, and this is beyond me to replace. I wonder on a weekly basis if I should part with this car or put up $2k to fix this. If this were the only fix and the car would be perfectly dependable afterward then I'd quickly be on board. However, that may be a bit naive for a high mileage Audi. Been chasing several problems this past year already.

Will follow the suit with great interest!
Changing the tensioner is not technically difficult and doesn't require a an Audi tech, so you may want to get quotes from a few indie shops. The part is only $80. The future dependability is of course unknown, but the odds of a very expensive repair if/when the tensioner fails are not in your favour I'm afraid.

[A4 Centaur]

Oil threads on Tdiclub.com have been talked into infinity. 0-40 weight oil and 5-50 or even 10-40 aren't gonna save a metal chain from stretching. Perhaps the interval of oil changes will? Wear on the chain faces and side plates are inevitable. The strength of the sprockets and the teeth of those items contribute to chain wear, like on a motorcycle chain.

Correlation and causation are tough arguments to prove in the engineering world. Luck, and some good oil might save ya a bit of time, but the design of the E888 won awards from the engineering world when the thing was released:https://www.audi.de/audimagazin/int/3593/index.html

Regardless, this engine like any has its flaws. I would submit that changing oil at shorter intervals, not beating it up at dragstrips and around town, performing regular maintenance, and a heck of a lot of luck will go longer than some oil types.

You may ask yourself: "What does this guy know?" Well, I'm not an engineer, but I have a ton of miles on over 8 different VW/Audi platforms, and many different motorcycles over 20+ years of driving, and 13 or more of those years on the Autobahn while living and working in Germany. This in cars, trucks and of course my personal motorcycles.

I change oil regularly at 3k intervals on my Ducati, new filter and oil after track days. On the Audi, I change oil and filter at 5k. I am getting ready to crack her open, so we will see what my methodology has done on this E888 engine after 83k.

It will be very interesting for sure. Might be proven completely wrong once again.

[peterjedi]

I change oil regularly at 3k intervals on my Ducati, new filter and oil after track days. On the Audi, I change oil and filter at 5k. I am getting ready to crack her open, so we will see what my methodology has done on this E888 engine after 83k.

It will be very interesting for sure. Might be proven completely wrong once again.

I would be very interested in what you find. Also would be interested to see an engine with 10k changes.

I know Audi & BMW engineers have been pushed to get better gas mileage. I am just wondering if these marks are causing more engine failures.

[A4 Centaur]

I will take some measurements of the chain lengths and the wear on the guides as well. I really want to look at the tensioner as well.

[richberry01]

Just out of curiosity...why isn't this thread a sticky?

[A4 Centaur]

Looking at picking this manual up to help: https://www.factory-manuals.com/expand-audi-a4/s4-b8-2008-2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014-2015-2016-2017-factory-repair-manual-226.html

Anyone have a better manual?

[kskevin]

What years are impacted / have this design?

[JeriQo]

would a failed TCT be covered by warranty?

[A4x]

would a failed TCT be covered by warranty?

Why wouldn't it be? Your engine would be kaputt with a failed TCT.

Unless you're tuned.


Or FWD.

[JeriQo]

Why wouldn't it be? Your engine would be kaputt with a failed TCT.

Unless you're tuned.


Or FWD.

man am i the only person here who owns a FWD audi?
https://cdn.meme.am/cache/instances/folder308/500x/35463308.jpg

[Shimmy]

man am i the only person here who owns a FWD audi?


yes. no one buys this brand known for it's amazing awd system without that option

it's like going to the hottest strip club in the world just to order drinks! wtf?!

[JeriQo]

yes. no one buys this brand known for it's amazing awd system without that option

it's like going to the hottest strip club in the world just to order drinks! wtf?!

you shoulda sold me your car then.

[mortimersnerd]

Hey, I like watered down drinks...but I still got the see mmm

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[Polo2.0T]

Hello to everyone.

Should I change just the top left tensioner, or both tensioners and the chains?

One of the local places told me that since I am at it, I should go ahead and change both tensioners and the chains. The price they quoted me is just a little more then replacing just the faulty top left one.

Has anyone done this service in the Salt Lake City area? if so where?

Any comments are appreciated.

[JBAeroEngineer]

man am i the only person here who owns a FWD audi?
https://cdn.meme.am/cache/instances/folder308/500x/35463308.jpg

you do you, man. you do you

[A4x]

I'm trying to figure out a DIY to replace only the tensioner (2011 2.0T with 80k miles).

From the DIY thread, it says to remove all these components. But in this DIY, the guy is replacing more components like the chain, guide rails, etc.

I am looking to simplify and do it myself, only replace the tensioner. Can someone please help me determine which parts I have to remove to get to just the tensioner? I have heard it can be a pretty simple DIY and I've worked on this car enough to know my way around.

Thanks for any help!


Remove front bumper
Remove rubber air dams
Remove crash bar and head lights
Remove crash bar supports (16mm bolts)
Remove Intercooler
Swing AC Condenser aside
Drain coolant by twisting valve many turns.
Unhook tranny oil line ( if so equipped)
Unplug fans and remove rad.
Unscrew lower rack carrier braces
Remove lock carrier (rad support)
If you don't feel comfortable getting to this point, perhaps this shouldn't be attempted.

Next is the engine:
Unhook turbo coolant hose and swing aside.
Remove serpentine belt, tensioner and idler.
Remove crank pulley and install T10368 spacer.
Remove cam actuator.
Remove exh cam bolt.
Remove LH THREAD valve with T10352/1
Set cover aside.
Remove lower cover (try not to destroy it! It's on there solid!)
Remove oil pump tensioner and unhook chain.
Remove upper chain guide rails.
Remove chain and shit yourself when intake cam slams forward!
Remove old tenisoner and top guide.

Link to DIY:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/613881-2-0-TFSI-Timing-Chain-and-Tensioner-Study

[MLA4]

My car is still under CPO warranty so I dropped her off to get my water pump replaced. I also told them to go through the whole car since the warranty will be up soon. I am at 65k miles and they said the tensioner was "making noise" so they are replacing it. Just figured I would share this here to notify other 2012 a4 owners that this is def still an issue even with newer B8s

[A4 Centaur]

Going to order the following from ECS Tuning to fix mine in a week:


Ultimate Timing Chain Kit
Brand: Genuine Volkswagen Audi
ES#: 2592689
Mfg#: 06K109158AKT2


Timing Service Tool Set
Brand: Schwaben
ES#: 3145737
Mfg#: 020946SCH01A

[nycaudi]

man am i the only person here who owns a FWD audi?
https://cdn.meme.am/cache/instances/folder308/500x/35463308.jpg

Apparently

[BeerBrent]

This thread scares me.

[nycaudi]

This thread scares me.

That's exactly what a ticking time bomb is though. Pure fear. Get the work done. it's a matter of spending 1k before it blows or spending 5k + after the bomb goes off

[WokkerK]

man am i the only person here who owns a FWD audi?
https://cdn.meme.am/cache/instances/folder308/500x/35463308.jpg

We have one in our household as well. My wife drives it. Its the 2009 Ibis white one in my signature. Its a no frills poverty spec. b8 with zero options and 80k on it. Stage 1 was done on it by the PO and it had its 35k service shortly after and apparently didnt need stage 2, so when it gets closer to 100k I will do the TCT on it.

On the other hand my 2009 Quattro Avant just turned 100k and had Stage 2 done by my local dealership at the request of the PO. I called them today and they pulled the work order and it appears the TCT was NOT done when that was done back in 2014.....I will be tackling just the tensioner here shortly as I really dont want to do the whole chain and guides because I havent seen much evidence of failure.

[JeriQo]

We have one in our household as well. My wife drives it. Its the 2009 Ibis white one in my signature. Its a no frills poverty spec. b8 with zero options and 80k on it. Stage 1 was done on it by the PO and it had its 35k service shortly after and apparently didnt need stage 2, so when it gets closer to 100k I will do the TCT on it.

On the other hand my 2009 Quattro Avant just turned 100k and had Stage 2 done by my local dealership at the request of the PO. I called them today and they pulled the work order and it appears the TCT was NOT done when that was done back in 2014.....I will be tackling just the tensioner here shortly as I really dont want to do the whole chain and guides because I havent seen much evidence of failure.

i have 0 problems with the car, some people here just act like theyre in 7th grade. im over them flaming what i have, straight to ignore list of those individuals do not have anything positive to say.

[WokkerK]

i have 0 problems with the car, some people here just act like theyre in 7th grade. im over them flaming what i have.

Hey Im with you....my wife is not an enthusiast but still loves Audis so she is perfectly happy with it. People talk epic amounts of shit about the CVT but we have had zero problem with it. I find it entertaining to drive because you can step into it and it just goes.....torque steer for days! I enjoy the car quite a bit and it makes my wife happy. If it makes you happy that is all that matters!

[JeriQo]

Hey Im with you....my wife is not an enthusiast but still loves Audis so she is perfectly happy with it. People talk epic amounts of shit about the CVT but we have had zero problem with it. I find it entertaining to drive because you can step into it and it just goes.....torque steer for days! I enjoy the car quite a bit and it makes my wife happy. If it makes you happy that is all that matters!

lmao torque steer
ive become an audi enthusiast thats why i lurk here everyday and acquire a good amount of information. mods, maintenance, its all here.

[Jon_90]

man am i the only person here who owns a FWD audi?
https://cdn.meme.am/cache/instances/folder308/500x/35463308.jpg

You're not alone , I have fwd too and I'm fine with it . Next car will most likely be an s4 though


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[nycaudi]

i have 0 problems with the car, some people here just act like theyre in 7th grade. im over them flaming what i have, straight to ignore list of those individuals do not have anything positive to say.

I apologize. I didn't mean to upset you or make you feel like I was degrading you in any way shape or form ✌👍

[hyperunion]

i have 0 problems with the car, some people here just act like theyre in 7th grade. im over them flaming what i have, straight to ignore list of those individuals do not have anything positive to say.
#fwdlivesmatter

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[hanyoung]

Repost due to multiple threads about timing chain tensioner and to inform community

I brought the car to the dealer for an intermittent low rpm (1.5-2.5K) ticking sound under load. My car is a 2012 Avant that was special ordered, and delivered in Nov 2011. They looked at the timing tensioner and it was the old model, which they replaced to the new model for preventative maintenance. I hope that this will make the intermittent ticking sound go away, but I thought after reading these timing tensioner threads that it would be good prevention. They charged me $600 total for labor and parts.

[djapeA4]

Well, you beat me to this 'thread'. I've been meaning to get it going.

From my theread, my post #6 and post #17 have more details and more examples of people that have had failures.

After talking to many shops and 2 dealers as well, this issue is starting to become much more known and for sure, poor maintenance intervals and/or not providing enough oil to the engine if you have oil consumption issues can bring this issue to light earlier than expected. Regardless, this issue doesn't occur because of either of those situations, it's going to happen, within time, because the timing tensioner is poorly designed.


This is, possibly, the smartest post I've seen in regards to this topic. Bravo; I'm being serious. Yes there is a counter and it's something we should track. I'll get mine so it can be added to this thread.

This video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAdSyBRHOPs Shows how you can check if you have the 'old', will eventually fail, tensioner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAdSyBRHOPs

Is this problem solved for 2013 B8.5 (April 2013 in-service date), or do I need to be worried too?

[mmaggi]

Well I got pinched as well. After weeks of dealing with an on again, off again engine light, I went to Autozone to get the code and sure enough I got the dreaded news that it was the timing chain tensioner (2009 Audi A4 2.0L turbo, 91k miles).

I called Audi and they quoted $158/hour for labor. I visited my local mechanic b/c he charges $105. We spoke about the work involved and what I wanted done since at this point we might as well replace everything we can. This includes 2 tensioners, 3 chains & the oil pump. All genuine Audi parts. It will come to about $2k total w/the labor (10 hours). The oil pump wasn't in stock and it won't be delivered until Tuesday (6/27).

Very disappointed w/Audi. Hopefully we can get something back through the class action suit. But I'm not holding my breath on this. On the bright side I'm basically getting back a car where 100k more miles won't be out of the question.

[B8_Dude97]

Well I got pinched as well. After weeks of dealing with an on again, off again engine light, I went to Autozone to get the code and sure enough I got the dreaded news that it was the timing chain tensioner (2009 Audi A4 2.0L turbo, 91k miles).

I called Audi and they quoted $158/hour for labor. I visited my local mechanic b/c he charges $105. We spoke about the work involved and what I wanted done since at this point we might as well replace everything we can. This includes 2 tensioners, 3 chains & the oil pump. All genuine Audi parts. It will come to about $2k total w/the labor (10 hours). The oil pump wasn't in stock and it won't be delivered until Tuesday (6/27).

Very disappointed w/Audi. Hopefully we can get something back through the class action suit. But I'm not holding my breath on this. On the bright side I'm basically getting back a car where 100k more miles won't be out of the question.

Seems like too much since 500 more gets u a low mile b8.5 motor


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[mortimersnerd]

.....but not the labor to install it.

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[A4 Centaur]

Finished mine up yesterday, and found only one guide worn severely, but the tensioner was almost at full extension. 84,677 miles.

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/JHTaylor2003/IMG_5943_zps3qflvaya.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/JHTaylor2003/media/IMG_5943_zps3qflvaya.jpg.html)


Back of the cover was starting to get chewed up:

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/JHTaylor2003/IMG_5950_zpswi6fows8.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/JHTaylor2003/media/IMG_5950_zpswi6fows8.jpg.html)

Old chain top and new chain bottom:

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/JHTaylor2003/IMG_5952_zpsqkfd2hxu.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/JHTaylor2003/media/IMG_5952_zpsqkfd2hxu.jpg.html)

Lower crank guide was the only real worn piece:

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/JHTaylor2003/IMG_5957_zpsnhmrvt7o.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/JHTaylor2003/media/IMG_5957_zpsnhmrvt7o.jpg.html)

[98A4TQ]

Could anyone tell which tensioner this is?

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s128/98a4tq/Mobile%20Uploads/6F737271-F9DD-4476-8D54-85766EE1553C_zpsxqutgywo.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/98a4tq/media/Mobile%20Uploads/6F737271-F9DD-4476-8D54-85766EE1553C_zpsxqutgywo.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s128/98a4tq/Mobile%20Uploads/AC1B011E-D5A3-4A91-A012-027811E7B8EF_zpsynfprtpb.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/98a4tq/media/Mobile%20Uploads/AC1B011E-D5A3-4A91-A012-027811E7B8EF_zpsynfprtpb.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s128/98a4tq/Mobile%20Uploads/AE06532F-0A4A-4CEA-BC9D-FAE5226D2AA1_zpsai11qwss.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/98a4tq/media/Mobile%20Uploads/AE06532F-0A4A-4CEA-BC9D-FAE5226D2AA1_zpsai11qwss.jpg.html)

[audrobotic]

That's an old (bad) version. That black band comes loose and wreaks the havoc.

You can find several youtube videos about the differences - here's one: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=G82iA4n3LBM

[B8_Dude97]

.....but not the labor to install it.

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Many go the path of diy on that one since the swap isn't too difficult especially if you've done swaps before


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[A4 Centaur]

Pulling the front off is really the hardest part, or tedious part really. If you get the tools to do this, it makes it real simple.

[98A4TQ]

That's an old (bad) version. That black band comes loose and wreaks the havoc.

You can find several youtube videos about the differences - here's one: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=G82iA4n3LBM

The messed up part about this is when the car was in to replace the pistons and rings 10k ago I told the SA to replace the tensioner if it wasn't the latest revision. When I picked up the car and I asked about it he said all my other parts were in perfect condition.

[A4 Centaur]

Yea, I would say that you need to do this if you have the miles on the car, or you beat on her hard. Also, I would bet your 2010 has the older timing chain too.

[mmaggi]

Seems like too much since 500 more gets u a low mile b8.5 motor


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Really dude? I brought it in b/c I don't have the tools (let alone the know how) to take on a job of this magnitude. Quite frankly I think I'm getting ahead of the game. No reason why I can't get 100k miles out of this provided I continue with all the scheduled maintenance.

[King Luis]

so which years get the newest chain tensioner? version K i believe it is. 2013+?

[A4 Centaur]

^Yup. Version K

[BeerBrent]

2010 with 65,000 miles. Should I get mine replaced ASAP? Dont see any mention of the timing chain tensioner being replaced/updated in the service records from dealership during previous owner when the oil consumption issue was fixed etc. I just sent an email to confirm with them. No tune etc on it and I don't drive it hard very often.

[blbroo]

2010 with 65,000 miles. Should I get mine replaced ASAP? Dont see any mention of the timing chain tensioner being replaced/updated in the service records from dealership during previous owner when the oil consumption issue was fixed etc. I just sent an email to confirm with them. No tune etc on it and I don't drive it hard very often.

I would get it replaced and know that it won't be an issue to worry about.

[BeerBrent]

I would get it replaced and know that it won't be an issue to worry about.

I'll definitely replace it, but wondering if it's something that I need to do ASAP since I only have 65,000 miles and my engine isnt pushed hard/tuned.

This all I need?
https://shopdap.com/store/tsi-timing-chain-tensioner-service-kit.html

[CharlieBrown]

why wait?

[BeerBrent]

why wait?

Just had to fork over $2,000 to have a new engine put in my sons car, short on $$$ right now.

[blbroo]

I'll definitely replace it, but wondering if it's something that I need to do ASAP since I only have 65,000 miles and my engine isnt pushed hard/tuned.

This all I need?
https://shopdap.com/store/tsi-timing-chain-tensioner-service-kit.html

That is what I used, and you need a couple of specialty tools.

[CharlieBrown]

i used that same kit. nothing else is needed.

[BeerBrent]

Thanks guys!

Wonder if there is any update on the lawsuit?
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/712507-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Class-Action-info?highlight=timing+chain+tensioner

[mmaggi]

Yesterday I picked up the Audi A4 from the shop. They changed all 3 chains & tensioners and the oil pump. Maybe put 40 miles total on it since yesterday. It's back in the shop.

Got it on the road last night, no issues. Went out this AM. Ran some errands. Got back and parked it in the driveway. Went to move it later and it started rough and the engine sputtered. I got it to the street, shut off the engine. Later I went out & tried to start it up. 3 times it wouldn't turn over. Finally got it to turn over and it was sputtering. I drove it a mile to the mechanic shop. It was driving fine. Problem seems to be at low idle. It's up on the lift now. The code came back about the Cam 1 timing or something.

Mechanic thinks it's some sensor. Any ideas from anyone? This is so frustrating.

[fixedhat313]

I'll definitely replace it, but wondering if it's something that I need to do ASAP since I only have 65,000 miles and my engine isnt pushed hard/tuned.

This all I need?
https://shopdap.com/store/tsi-timing-chain-tensioner-service-kit.html

Wow, I spent $700 on parts from ECS, including a $200 cover. I got a couple chains and stuff, not totally sure, and was told that my chain was stretched... but still I feel ripped off now. Should I?


I got this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/basic-timing-chain-kit/06h109469ankt/

[AutoRacer100]

B8 A4 is the money pit. Luckily I don't drive much...

[JeriQo]

B8 A4 is the money pit. Luckily I don't drive much...

if youre out of warranty, for sure.
i got myself covered with an extended 6yr/60k

[AutoRacer100]

if youre out of warranty, for sure.
i got myself covered with an extended 6yr/60k

The dealer would flag my car for all the mods and a tune for sure even if the car is still under warranty. I've never brought the car back to the dealer when I tuned the car five years ago.

[mmaggi]

Got my answer. Intake valves are shot. Mechanic will work with me to get it fixed the cheapest way possible. I still can't believe this problem started with the dreaded chain adjuster code and now it appears the real root cause was a lack of oil pressure that ruined the valves. Un-f-#-ck-!-ng believable.

I'm done owning cars, especially Audi. What a piece of crap this '09 A4 2.0L T has been. After it's fixed I'm going to trade it in for another leased Honda. They may not have the prestige of an Audi but at the very least they are good, reliable cars. I'm currently leasing a Honda Accord Sport Special Edition w/leather, heated seats, 19" rims. The engine isn't the same as 2.0L T but it works. Nothing to be ashamed of.

[audrobotic]

Got my answer. Intake valves are shot. Mechanic will work with me to get it fixed the cheapest way possible. I still can't believe this problem started with the dreaded chain adjuster code and now it appears the real root cause was a lack of oil pressure that ruined the valves. Un-f-#-ck-!-ng believable.

I'm done owning cars, especially Audi. What a piece of crap this '09 A4 2.0L T has been. After it's fixed I'm going to trade it in for another leased Honda. They may not have the prestige of an Audi but at the very least they are good, reliable cars. I'm currently leasing a Honda Accord Sport Special Edition w/leather, heated seats, 19" rims. The engine isn't the same as 2.0L T but it works. Nothing to be ashamed of.

Yeah. The 09 was definelty the worst. I'm like a broken record - but never get a B8. It's just way too flawed. The whole oil burning thing was just a domino effect of problems - PCV blows out seals, oil burns - leads to low oil pressures, timing chain tensioner depends on that oil pressure to work properly etc. It's just a mess. It was the only car (2010) that ever broke down on the road for me (actually my wife was driving - fuel injector(s) failed. But B8.5 is much better.

If you like Hondas check out used ones too. The sedan used car market is tanking right now, with lots of supply. You'll save a lot, and you know about the reliabilty part. The current Accord design is pretty nice. The Civic design is a disaster. I've leased way too many cars in my life so I'm sort of the opposite. I could have actually owns some cars by now if I'd just not leased so much. (Leased - Civic, Honda Fit, Mini Cooper, TSX, Audi, Mercedes).

[B8_Dude97]

Got my answer. Intake valves are shot. Mechanic will work with me to get it fixed the cheapest way possible. I still can't believe this problem started with the dreaded chain adjuster code and now it appears the real root cause was a lack of oil pressure that ruined the valves. Un-f-#-ck-!-ng believable.

I'm done owning cars, especially Audi. What a piece of crap this '09 A4 2.0L T has been. After it's fixed I'm going to trade it in for another leased Honda. They may not have the prestige of an Audi but at the very least they are good, reliable cars. I'm currently leasing a Honda Accord Sport Special Edition w/leather, heated seats, 19" rims. The engine isn't the same as 2.0L T but it works. Nothing to be ashamed of.

TBH that car should've not beeen. Moved after initial rough start on driveway. By moving it to the street then moving it again is what bent the valves. After the rough start it should've not been moved and towed to prevent further valve contact and probably would've saved you a hefty bill or at least ran a scan with vagcom to see the code

09 is reliable if taken care of. Hondas are cool too though


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[_triscuit_]

Reading this is going to keep me up at night as I daily an 09 A4...

[audrobotic]

Reading this is going to keep me up at night as I daily an 09 A4...

If you have replaced the tensioner you'll be ok. After that the potential problems arent that major.
If you really want to have trouble sleeping take a look at the other huge thread on oil consumption.

[MrTylerRaines]

Had my timing chain revised last year during oil consumption piston replacement. Welp....going to have to revise one of the tensioners again. Been 16k miles.


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[_triscuit_]

If you have replaced the tensioner you'll be ok. After that the potential problems arent that major.
If you really want to have trouble sleeping take a look at the other huge thread on oil consumption.

I had the oil consumption rebuild done around 62k but I'd be surprised (I need to check again) if they did anything timing chain related.

[audrobotic]

I had the oil consumption rebuild done around 62k but I'd be surprised (I need to check again) if they did anything timing chain related.

If you've had the piston rings work done and all that, and then change the tensioner - I think youre good to go. Those are the major things.

[mmaggi]

TBH that car should've not beeen. Moved after initial rough start on driveway. By moving it to the street then moving it again is what bent the valves. After the rough start it should've not been moved and towed to prevent further valve contact and probably would've saved you a hefty bill or at least ran a scan with vagcom to see the code

09 is reliable if taken care of. Hondas are cool too though


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Question: Were my valves damaged because the mechanic did not properly replace the timing chains & tensioners or were the valves damaged before that?

Before getting all the chains & tensioners changed, I did drive the car for about 300 miles before bringing it in to check the engine light. The engine light would come on and stay on for 20-30 miles before going off and staying off for about 100 miles before coming on again.

[B8_Dude97]

Question: Were my valves damaged because the mechanic did not properly replace the timing chains & tensioners or were the valves damaged before that?

Before getting all the chains & tensioners changed, I did drive the car for about 300 miles before bringing it in to check the engine light. The engine light would come on and stay on for 20-30 miles before going off and staying off for about 100 miles before coming on again.

I'm not sure for certain but driving those 300 miles probably made the issue worse and replacing those parts was like a band aid

The valves I would say were Damagedfed on the rough start you had which was Likely a timing jump


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[ELaw]

TBH that car should've not beeen. Moved after initial rough start on driveway. By moving it to the street then moving it again is what bent the valves. After the rough start it should've not been moved and towed to prevent further valve contact and probably would've saved you a hefty bill or at least ran a scan with vagcom to see the code
Not to be a jerk but I have to disagree with this.

If the cam timing is off far enough to bend valves, they'll get bent within two rotations of the engine and at idle speed it takes less than 2/10 second for the engine to make two rotations. So by the time you even notice a problem the damage is done... what you do after that is pretty much irrelevant.

[ELaw]

Hey just to tell my story on this issue...

My car is a 2012 with just under 100K on it. Due to serious financial limitations right now I decided to replace the tensioner... only. I know the chains etc. need doing but they'll have to wait.

Anyhow the project was a complete success. The engine had the original tensioner although it didn't look to be in as bad shape as some I've seen here. I managed to get the timing cover off without ruining it, and used a cut length of 1/2" PVC pipe in place of the factory tool used with the crank bolt to keep the sprockets in place.

I tried and failed to get the crank bolt loose with my 1/2" impact gun. I ordered the factory crank-holding tool with the expectation of using a breaker bar to loosen the bolt, but also borrowed a better impact wrench from a friend which did get it loose (along with a brand-new 6-point 22mm socket). However the crank-holding tool did prove useful when tightening the bolt so buying it wasn't a waste.

Oh and if you read the writeups and think you're smart and can shortcut the job and not remove every damn part from the front of the car, forget about it! I was hoping I could leave the radiator connected and just move it out of the way along with a few other things and it just doesn't work. That's partly because my car is an automatic and has oil lines attached to one end of the radiator as well as the coolant lines on the other, but in the end it was easier just to remove everything.

The once exception is the A/C condenser... I detached it from the radiator but left the refrigerant lines connected so I didn't have to discharge the system. Since both lines connect at the same end of the condenser, it's easy to move it out of the way with the lines still attached.

Oh and one tip I haven't seen in the writeups: once I had the timing cover off, I rotated the engine until all the timing marks lined up. That way if the chain skipped while I was doing the work, I'd know about it and could fix it before closing the engine up.

[marco12]

Am I safe? I have a 2013 built in 2012. 110,000km on it right now. I have the money to replace the tensioner and chain, but not enough for major repairs. I just read this entire thread today, and now I'm paranoid. :(

[mmaggi]

Am I safe? I have a 2013 built in 2012. 110,000km on it right now. I have the money to replace the tensioner and chain, but not enough for major repairs. I just read this entire thread today, and now I'm paranoid. :(

Marco - If I were you, there are 2 options: 1) sell the car since it's out of warranty or 2) goto an Audi Certified mechanic and change the tensioner & chain.

[Marko S]

Am I safe? I have a 2013 built in 2012. 110,000km on it right now. I have the money to replace the tensioner and chain, but not enough for major repairs. I just read this entire thread today, and now I'm paranoid. :(There is a lot of info on here. You can check what revision of tensioner you have with a mirror through the hole on the cover. From that you can know if the tensioner in your car is the newer model or the old one prone to failure.

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[A4x]

Hey just to tell my story on this issue...

My car is a 2012 with just under 100K on it. Due to serious financial limitations right now I decided to replace the tensioner... only. I know the chains etc. need doing but they'll have to wait.

Anyhow the project was a complete success. The engine had the original tensioner although it didn't look to be in as bad shape as some I've seen here. I managed to get the timing cover off without ruining it, and used a cut length of 1/2" PVC pipe in place of the factory tool used with the crank bolt to keep the sprockets in place.

I tried and failed to get the crank bolt loose with my 1/2" impact gun. I ordered the factory crank-holding tool with the expectation of using a breaker bar to loosen the bolt, but also borrowed a better impact wrench from a friend which did get it loose (along with a brand-new 6-point 22mm socket). However the crank-holding tool did prove useful when tightening the bolt so buying it wasn't a waste.

Oh and if you read the writeups and think you're smart and can shortcut the job and not remove every damn part from the front of the car, forget about it! I was hoping I could leave the radiator connected and just move it out of the way along with a few other things and it just doesn't work. That's partly because my car is an automatic and has oil lines attached to one end of the radiator as well as the coolant lines on the other, but in the end it was easier just to remove everything.

The once exception is the A/C condenser... I detached it from the radiator but left the refrigerant lines connected so I didn't have to discharge the system. Since both lines connect at the same end of the condenser, it's easy to move it out of the way with the lines still attached.

Oh and one tip I haven't seen in the writeups: once I had the timing cover off, I rotated the engine until all the timing marks lined up. That way if the chain skipped while I was doing the work, I'd know about it and could fix it before closing the engine up.

Good job! Perhaps your tensioner looked OK because with 100k miles on a 2012, I can assume it is mostly highway miles and less of the start-stop city driving. I think the main thing that destroys these tensioners is starting the engine over and over again (no oil pressure when the engine is off).

I'm going to tackle this job by myself soon and have a few questions. Can anyone help?

What is the crank tool needed for (to hold the sprockets)? My plan is to only remove the lower timing cover and replace the tensioner. I will just zip-tie the guides and chain to keep them in place when I remove the tensioner. Do I need this crank tool?

Do I need an impact gun to remove the crank bolt? I assume it is on there really good. And is it possible to torque it back on by hand?

[ELaw]

IMHO the crank bolt is one of two big challenges in doing this job... the other being getting the cover off without ruining it.

The bolt is very tight... I don't recall the spec off-hand but it's tightened to 100-plus foot-pounds then another 90 degrees. So Tight with a capital "t". [;)]

As I wrote above, I didn't end up needing the crank tool to remove the bolt, a big impact gun did it. Although it would still be good to have the tool to ensure the crank doesn't move at all as you remove the bolt.

I think if you didn't care too much about getting the tightening exactly right, you could do without the crank tool for tightening too... just have at it with the same impact gun that removed it. But if you want it to be right, you need a way to hold the crank while you do the final 90-degree rotation of the bolt and that's where the tool is pretty much required.

Actually I should qualify that... if you have a manual transmission it's possible you could keep the crank from turning enough by putting the car in gear with the brakes on. But that doesn't work with an automatic.

[avant-grd]

Question: Were my valves damaged because the mechanic did not properly replace the timing chains & tensioners or were the valves damaged before that?

Before getting all the chains & tensioners changed, I did drive the car for about 300 miles before bringing it in to check the engine light. The engine light would come on and stay on for 20-30 miles before going off and staying off for about 100 miles before coming on again.[/QUOTE]

I had chain tensioner, chains and guides replaced by dealer (yea, long story...) on my 2011 Avant. Prior to replacement, mechanic checked all cylinders for compression. This is standard test that tells you if valves are OK.
So, ask your mechanic how did he made sure that he confirmed your engine valves were good before he made any parts replacement.

[pierreb]

Question: Were my valves damaged because the mechanic did not properly replace the timing chains & tensioners or were the valves damaged before that?

Before getting all the chains & tensioners changed, I did drive the car for about 300 miles before bringing it in to check the engine light. The engine light would come on and stay on for 20-30 miles before going off and staying off for about 100 miles before coming on again.

Although my engine never grenaded, I firmly believe my 2010 tensioner was responsible for damaging the cyl head I ended up replacing. I had a misfire on cyl 2 we could never get rid of. I put a 30k mile used head on for $650 and it went away for good. Never found out if it was the valves, cams or guides.

[BeerBrent]

Is replacing the tensioner only what most people do? Or do we have to replace the chains, rails, etc also?
With only 67,000 miles on my engine, I'm hoping I still have some time before I need to get this done. $$$$$

[pierreb]

Depends on the state of the chain your car came with. I would replace 10/10 times since you're already there. There is a newer chain design for the older cars as well if I recall correctly. My guides weren't bad after 120k but we replaced everything anyway.

[ancientman]

Hmm...I'm 2012 and heading 125k miles odometer now.

The car is burning some oil but not too bad (1qt/2000miles) and runs perfectly fine with 30 miles daily driving.

I changed spark plus on 110k and changing engine oil/filter every 10k miles.

Do I have to concern about all these issue? 2012 should be fine right?

[jfo]

Hmm...I'm 2012 and heading 125k miles odometer now.

The car is burning some oil but not too bad (1qt/2000miles) and runs perfectly fine with 30 miles daily driving.

I changed spark plus on 110k and changing engine oil/filter every 10k miles.

Do I have to concern about all these issue? 2012 should be fine right?

It isn't clear if the tensioner change affects all or perhaps some of MY 2012. You would be wise to check the version through the inspection port to be sure.

[jfo]

Is replacing the tensioner only what most people do? Or do we have to replace the chains, rails, etc also?
With only 67,000 miles on my engine, I'm hoping I still have some time before I need to get this done. $$$$$

I would not wait to do the tensioner. Unlike wear on the chain and guides, which is gradual, the tensioner can fail with no warning with very nasty results. When it's open you can review and decide on other parts. The degree of extension of the tensioner plunger will give you an idea of chain stretch. You can see this through the inspection port. Fully extended is 10 notches and moderate extension would be 5-6. There is no specific rule here, just indirect evidence of the amount of stretch. If you are past the halfway point, a new chain would make sense. If the chain is coming off, then it makes sense to do worn guides.

[BeerBrent]

I would not wait to do the tensioner. Unlike wear on the chain and guides, which is gradual, the tensioner can fail with no warning with very nasty results. When it's open you can review and decide on other parts. The degree of extension of the tensioner plunger will give you an idea of chain stretch. You can see this through the inspection port. Fully extended is 10 notches and moderate extension would be 5-6. There is no specific rule here, just indirect evidence of the amount of stretch. If you are past the halfway point, a new chain would make sense. If the chain is coming off, then it makes sense to do worn guides.

Thanks!

[Richieru456]

So I'm at 85k, should I just have it done?

[Discipulus]

So I'm at 85k, should I just have it done?
I had 108k miles on my car when I did everything. I decided to just replace all the rails, chains, tensioners etc without doing an inspection first. I figured it would be worth the extra expense to replace it all since I had to take the dang thing apart anyway.

Let me tell you I have no regrets spending an extra few hundred bucks on the ultimate timing chain kit because my original chains were stretched (just a little, not a lot) and the original guides were noticeably worn.

Since replacing everything I have noticed the engine runs a little smoother and I have piece of mind knowing it won't fail randomly. Hell, I've probably got another 150k or more worth of life out those timing chains now!

I'd recommend to anyone approaching 100k miles to do the whole thing, everything in that area will have noticeable wear by then anyway and trust me you don't want to take this thing apart twice.

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[98A4TQ]

Anyone know what year the latest part 06K109467K was in production and available for dealers to install. When my A4 was in for the piston and ring fix in August 2015 they said my tensioner was the latest. It was the T version that I just swapped out to the K version a few weekends ago. I'm seeing talks of K version on some VW forums going back to 2012. I've asked in the Audi customer forums but they seem to be avoiding the question

[MrTylerRaines]

Anyone know what year the latest part 06K109467K was in production and available for dealers to install. When my A4 was in for the piston and ring fix in August 2015 they said my tensioner was the latest. It was the T version that I just swapped out to the latest a few weekends ago. I'm seeing talks of latest version on some VW forums going back to 2012. I've asked in the Audi customer forums but they seem to be avoiding the question

Revision K is the latest. I just installed one.


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[MrTylerRaines]

Revision K is the latest. I just installed one.


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Its about a year and a half old revision i believe. < not 100% on that


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[98A4TQ]

Its about a year and a half old revision i believe. < not 100% on that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I wonder if VW and Audi would start using the K version at different dates. I doubt it though.

[jfo]

Anyone know what year the latest part 06K109467K was in production and available for dealers to install. When my A4 was in for the piston and ring fix in August 2015 they said my tensioner was the latest. It was the T version that I just swapped out to the K version a few weekends ago. I'm seeing talks of K version on some VW forums going back to 2012. I've asked in the Audi customer forums but they seem to be avoiding the question

Mine was updated to the K version in early Feb 2015 along with the pistons. My dealer had chosen to swap out the tensioner for all stage 2 jobs.

[98A4TQ]

Mine was updated to the K version in early Feb 2015 along with the pistons. My dealer had chosen to swap out the tensioner for all stage 2 jobs.you have a good dealer. My dealer chose not to swap out my tensioner after I told them to install the Latest version.

[jfo]

you have a good dealer. My dealer chose not to swap out my tensioner after I told them to install the Latest version.

They also replaced the cam bridge with the updated version. I just discovered this last week after following the thread on failed screens in the cam bridge. I called my SA to ask about their experience with this part and he said they do it as part of the stage 2. Sure enough, it was on my invoice list.

[MrTylerRaines]

I wonder if VW and Audi would start using the K version at different dates. I doubt it though.

Yea that I am not sure of either. i know that i bought mine January of 2016. (Version K)


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[squaretail]

Man, I wish I had found you guys sooner. Count another one.

Purchased a 2010 B8 on July 28. 63k miles. Black. Beautiful car. Totally clean. Sept 3, I walked out to start it. Boom.

No warning at all. No CEL. No rattles.

It's currently at the dealer getting 'diagnosed,' but based on the info in this thread, I know what's wrong with it. I had barely gotten to know the car. Now it's toast. I guess that's a blessing in that I hadn't put any money into mods before it happened, but that's of little solace right now.

This is my first post, wish I could have met you under better circumstances. There is some awesome info around here.

[Discipulus]

Man, I wish I had found you guys sooner. Count another one.

Purchased a 2010 B8 on July 28. 63k miles. Black. Beautiful car. Totally clean. Sept 3, I walked out to start it. Boom.

No warning at all. No CEL. No rattles.

It's currently at the dealer getting 'diagnosed,' but based on the info in this thread, I know what's wrong with it. I had barely gotten to know the car. Now it's toast. I guess that's a blessing in that I hadn't put any money into mods before it happened, but that's of little solace right now.

This is my first post, wish I could have met you under better circumstances. There is some awesome info around here.
Oh man, that's a real bummer!! I hope the dealer is able to help you out or maybe you're extremely lucky and didn't get valve damage. I wish you luck.

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[audrobotic]

Man, I wish I had found you guys sooner. Count another one.

Purchased a 2010 B8 on July 28. 63k miles. Black. Beautiful car. Totally clean. Sept 3, I walked out to start it. Boom.

No warning at all. No CEL. No rattles.

It's currently at the dealer getting 'diagnosed,' but based on the info in this thread, I know what's wrong with it. I had barely gotten to know the car. Now it's toast. I guess that's a blessing in that I hadn't put any money into mods before it happened, but that's of little solace right now.

This is my first post, wish I could have met you under better circumstances. There is some awesome info around here.

That's terrible! I really wish we could have some public service announcement for the B8! Guess it's time to start looking at used engines and a good indy shop.

[spoolin4jesus]

Man, I wish I had found you guys sooner. Count another one.

Purchased a 2010 B8 on July 28. 63k miles. Black. Beautiful car. Totally clean. Sept 3, I walked out to start it. Boom.

No warning at all. No CEL. No rattles.

It's currently at the dealer getting 'diagnosed,' but based on the info in this thread, I know what's wrong with it. I had barely gotten to know the car. Now it's toast. I guess that's a blessing in that I hadn't put any money into mods before it happened, but that's of little solace right now.

This is my first post, wish I could have met you under better circumstances. There is some awesome info around here.

Damnit, sorry to hear that. That few miles makes me nervous...I was trying to hold off until 80k or so on replacing the tensioner. Currently in the low 60's. Please keep us updated.

[BeerBrent]

Damnit, sorry to hear that. That few miles makes me nervous...I was trying to hold off until 80k or so on replacing the tensioner. Currently in the low 60's. Please keep us updated.

Me too, also hoping to hold off until 80k. Fingers crossed. Can't afford it right now.

[ccoaston]

Man i'm so glad I got mine done...so glad

[STA4]

Unless you can't afford it there's no reason for delaying.

[ryan6691]

I just talked with my local Audi dealer. The service tech I spoke with never even heard of this issue or the other service guy that was walking by. Reading this thread makes it sound like a rather big, well known issue. How can a very reputable dealer have zero knowledge of this or have experience with people replacing this?

[ELaw]

I hate to put it so strongly but they're either incredibly ignorant or lying. Google "Audi 2.0 tensioner failure" and see how many results you get! Or maybe tell them to do that and see what they say. [rolleyes]

[Zach L]

I just talked with my local Audi dealer. The service tech I spoke with never even heard of this issue or the other service guy that was walking by. Reading this thread makes it sound like a rather big, well known issue. How can a very reputable dealer have zero knowledge of this or have experience with people replacing this?That would make me walk out and never take my car there. As mentioned above, they're either dishonest or completely ignorant. Either way, it's bad.

[ryan6691]

I understand. But what reason would they have to not address it. He even asked if he wanted me to get him a price, and he would go talk with some of the mechanics that have been there the longest. He then called me back and gave me the price, then said that the other techs had said they have not heard about the issue. He even discouraged me somewhat from getting the job done, but said it was ultimitely my decision. But they have not seen this issue before in the dealership. He also said that all he can speak to is what they have seen in THEIR dealership, and they have not seen this issue before. He said he cant speak for other places.

So very strange. I believe its an issue and one Audi is aware of. But this is also the internet and things like this can seem bigger and more frequent than they may truly be. I dont know, now Im confused...................................

[BeerBrent]

Maybe the issue is more common on forums like this because guys who visit an Audi forum are probably the type of guy that drives their car harder than the average Audi owner? And the ratio of tuned cars is obviously going to be much higher on an Audi forum than the average Audi owner.

[A4 Centaur]

For an Audi Dealership Service Advisor to not know about a TSB and or Lawsuit on this part is pretty crazy to believe.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/698056-Timing-Tensioner-Failure-Class-Action-Law-Suit

[ryan6691]

I know, thats whats so confusing. This is Audi North Shore in Milwaukee. Been around for a long time. Just for info sake, they priced the fix at $2025. I of course would never get it done there, but for reference.

[BeerBrent]

I know, thats whats so confusing. This is Audi North Shore in Milwaukee. Been around for a long time. Just for info sake, they priced the fix at $2025. I of course would never get it done there, but for reference.

Go Seahawks! [:p]

[ryan6691]

Its going to be epic! Always the best game of the year, at least regular season.

[A4x]

I know, thats whats so confusing. This is Audi North Shore in Milwaukee. Been around for a long time. Just for info sake, they priced the fix at $2025. I of course would never get it done there, but for reference.

That's absurdly high. I got the chain, guides, and tensioner replaced @ 5.8 hours labor + parts at an Audi Dealership. Try to get them to break it down for labor and parts.

[Richieru456]

That's absurdly high. I got the chain, guides, and tensioner replaced @ 5.8 hours labor + parts at an Audi Dealership. Try to get them to break it down for labor and parts.

What was the price?

[A4x]

What was the price?

Well I gave enough information to figure it out, but total price was around $1050 plus tax.

5.8 hours labor = $725
Chain = $150
Tensioner = $70
3 guides about $20 each

They didn't need a new cover. Then I ran over budget because they sold me on the $270 cam bridge once they saw my screen was gone.

Very fair price from a dealership. I was pissed about the bridge because Audi knows this is a problem and there is a TSB. I kept all old parts from my car and I hope I can get some money back if these lawsuits go through!!

[squaretail]

Damnit, sorry to hear that. That few miles makes me nervous...I was trying to hold off until 80k or so on replacing the tensioner. Currently in the low 60's. Please keep us updated.

Thanks. The initial report confirmed it is the TCT. No details yet on how extensive the damage is - hopefully this afternoon. The dealer says they'll "try to work with me." I'd certainly hope so. I've had it a total of 36 days and put all of 800 miles on it.

I've bought lots of used cars, and I believe in caveat emptor, so I feel sick that I didn't research the car enough to uncover this concern. Maybe I was naive...I put 172k miles on my previous 2006 B7 with no issues. That said, the indy dealer I bought it from prides itself on selling German cars, so I am perplexed that they seemingly did not know about this or perhaps knew about it and rolled the dice.

[B8_Dude97]

Thanks. The initial report confirmed it is the TCT. No details yet on how extensive the damage is - hopefully this afternoon. The dealer says they'll "try to work with me." I'd certainly hope so. I've had it a total of 36 days and put all of 800 miles on it.

I've bought lots of used cars, and I believe in caveat emptor, so I feel sick that I didn't research the car enough to uncover this concern. Maybe I was naive...I put 172k miles on my previous 2006 B7 with no issues. That said, the indy dealer I bought it from prides itself on selling German cars, so I am perplexed that they seemingly did not know about this or perhaps knew about it and rolled the dice.

Here's a PSA that should be autoreplied to anyone that has a failed TCT.

Don't do a rebuild. It's not cost effective. Unless your getting a really good deal it's better if doing a b8.5 swap to be sure your getting a much better motor with around 30-40k mileage.
B8.5 motors go for 1.8-2.5k on lkq all day long and a Indy ship will do that for 1000 in labor or do it yourself.

It sucks it happens. I'm still rolling a stage 2 pistons and rings motor at 75k and will be doing tct @80k however if it blows I'll either do a 2.0 gen2/gen3 swap or v8


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[Richieru456]

Well I gave enough information to figure it out, but total price was around $1050 plus tax.

5.8 hours labor = $725
Chain = $150
Tensioner = $70
3 guides about $20 each

They didn't need a new cover. Then I ran over budget because they sold me on the $270 cam bridge once they saw my screen was gone.

Very fair price from a dealership. I was pissed about the bridge because Audi knows this is a problem and there is a TSB. I kept all old parts from my car and I hope I can get some money back if these lawsuits go through!!

I asked because I have been quoted $1000-$2500 from different dealerships. Thanks tho know I where to go

[pierreb]

Here's a PSA that should be autoreplied to anyone that has a failed TCT.

Don't do a rebuild. It's not cost effective. Unless your getting a really good deal it's better if doing a b8.5 swap to be sure your getting a much better motor with around 30-40k mileage.
B8.5 motors go for 1.8-2.5k on lkq all day long and a Indy ship will do that for 1000 in labor or do it yourself.

It sucks it happens. I'm still rolling a stage 2 pistons and rings motor at 75k and will be doing tct @80k however if it blows I'll either do a 2.0 gen2/gen3 swap or v8



V8???

[B8_Dude97]

V8???

Seeing how slowone didn't really love his big turbo and just reading has led me to either three choices
B8.5 swap w/bigturbo +meth(shoot for 420-450 with fueling upgrades
Gen3 swap(those stage 1 numbers are something. Serious)

V8TT - already sourced custom mounts if I go this route. Would be the biggest b8a4 sleeper ;)


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[psteph2]

Replaced chains and tensioner at Black Forrest Industries in Cary, NC. I've had work done there before and recommend them to anybody in the area. During the install the SA brought out the screen from the camshaft bracket that had just fallen off. I'm glad they found it before it got sucked into the engine. So, another repair that has to be made.[down]I'm at 135K, so any preventive maintenance I can do, I'm all about it.

[squaretail]

Damnit, sorry to hear that. That few miles makes me nervous...I was trying to hold off until 80k or so on replacing the tensioner. Currently in the low 60's. Please keep us updated.

Well, it appears I was seriously lucky. The tensioner failed at startup, but no damage to the engine. I paid an indy shop $1,400 for the diagnosis and replacement.

[Discipulus]

Well, it appears I was seriously lucky. The tensioner failed at startup, but no damage to the engine. I paid an indy shop $1,400 for the diagnosis and replacement.

F*ck yeah dude! I'm so happy for you - I can't imagine owning a car for less than 3 months and then having the engine blow due to a timing chain.

You, sir, have just dealt with 1 out of 2 known expensive issues with these cars. If the other issue is already resolved (oil consumption, faulty piston rings) then you're all set. Here's to a lot of good miles ahead!

[RG4]

I know, thats whats so confusing. This is Audi North Shore in Milwaukee. Been around for a long time. Just for info sake, they priced the fix at $2025. I of course would never get it done there, but for reference.

My closest Audi dealership has done so many of these every desk in the service department has a card with the exact quote for this job for 09-12's. Labor, PN's and all, so when they get ANOTHER call about doing the job they don't even have to look up VIN's. Hard to believe your dealer could be so clueless to this problem.

[JBAeroEngineer]

My closest Audi dealership has done so many of these every desk in the service department has a card with the exact quote for this job for 09-12's. Labor, PN's and all, so when they get ANOTHER call about doing the job they don't even have to look up VIN's. Hard to believe your dealer could be so clueless to this problem.Milwaukee can't exactly be crawling with Audi Enthusiasts...

[IHave2Turbos]

But it is Algonquin for “The Good Land”...

[wkhanna]

just had the failure in my wifes' 2012 A4.....
72k miles on the engine.....
its at the dealer now for eval......

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/36953816273_90a23252a0.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YitY8k)

[craigiemac412]

AAA is on their way to get my car now to tow to the dealer...didn't want to crank over at first, held the FOB in to get it to start and immediately started grinding :-/. Stopped the motor immediately and got the code pulled...P0016...the grinding noise has me thinking I've just skipped timing. Hopefully no catastrophic damage! Extremely anxious to hear what the dealer will have to say after they've had a chance to diagnose, but I'm expecting the worse at this point. Car is a 2010 @ 109xxx...I had the STG II Oil Consumption done around 65k under warranty almost 4 years ago at this point...and I'm at work so I don't have my paperwork handy to remember if they replaced the chain tensioner at that point or not...

This makes 3 of 3 major issues for me with this vehicle...
- New turbo @ 60k due to faulty waste gate actuator (done under warranty)
- STG II Oil Consumption @ 65k (done under warranty)
- Timing (complete diagnosis TBD -- most likely getting the shaft with out of pocket on this one)

[wkhanna]

AAA is on their way to get my car now to tow to the dealer...didn't want to crank over at first, held the FOB in to get it to start and immediately started grinding :-/. Stopped the motor immediately and got the code pulled...P0016...the grinding noise has me thinking I've just skipped timing. Hopefully no catastrophic damage! Extremely anxious to hear what the dealer will have to say after they've had a chance to diagnose, but I'm expecting the worse at this point. Car is a 2010 @ 109xxx...I had the STG II Oil Consumption done around 65k under warranty almost 4 years ago at this point...and I'm at work so I don't have my paperwork handy to remember if they replaced the chain tensioner at that point or not...

This makes 3 of 3 major issues for me with this vehicle...
- New turbo @ 60k due to faulty waste gate actuator (done under warranty)
- STG II Oil Consumption @ 65k (done under warranty)
- Timing (complete diagnosis TBD -- most likely getting the shaft with out of pocket on this one)

yep, i feel your pain....which dealer you using.....?
yesterday mine just went to Pittsburgh Audi on West Liberty.......

[BeerBrent]

just had the failure in my wifes' 2012 A4.....
72k miles on the engine.....
its at the dealer now for eval......



Only 72k?!?! Crap! I'm at about that on my 2010. I was hoping to wait until about 90k to get my timing tensioner/chain replaced. It seems like the majority of the guys that have it give out are at 100k+.

[craigiemac412]

yep, i feel your pain....which dealer you using.....?
yesterday mine just went to Pittsburgh Audi on West Liberty.......

That's where mine is going...I like Patrick the SA and Larry Pryor the SM @ Pittsburgh Audi (Larry used to be at Sewickley)..."safety in numbers" might benefit us both being there at the same time for the same thing

[wkhanna]

yeah, i have had no problems with Patrick the few i have dealt with him.....

we def should talk this over.....!
i will PM my email address & cell# to you in a few...

[craigiemac412]

Ok, so I was able to dig up my paperwork from my STG II Oil Consumption job...work was done at 62k miles in May 2014. At that time, they replaced the chain tensioner with revision K. Fast forward 47k miles, self destruction. Here is the timing info:

https://flic.kr/p/YucyxG

https://flic.kr/p/CsLrYQ

For a "lifetime" part, it definitely should not fail 47k miles after being brand new. There must have been some other issue which was not addressed at that time which worsened over time (i.e. chain was in rough shape and should have but wasn't replaced) or the new part itself was faulty. But hell...lets be honest...there could have been several different things going on...but hopefully this will help in my pursuit of getting this paid for by either the dealer or AoA...

Will keep thread updated...

[A4 Centaur]

Audi better get busy on this. There will be serious ramifications for them if not.

[wkhanna]

our 2012 was purchased used at ~ 35k....
i do not have the service records at hand but do not recall it containing any mention of the oil consumption issue.
our car has performed flawlessly up until now with no excessive oil consumption or other indications that there would or could be issues....

it will come down to analyzing the engine parts for evidence of the root cause for the failure.....unfortunately, that is something that can be up to individual interpretation.....
however, i have experience as a mechanic, albeit years ago, but i can at least tell if i am being bullshitted.....
also, i can/will have any parts in question analyzed by a third party.....

[wkhanna]

Audi better get busy on this. There will be serious ramifications for them if not.

one aspect i see at hand is the fact they are enduring massive ($billions) fines & replacement/reimbursement costs due to the recent emissions fiasco.
hence, they will be even less motivated to poney up $ for customer repairs related to a new issue....

[Discipulus]

Only 72k?!?! Crap! I'm at about that on my 2010. I was hoping to wait until about 90k to get my timing tensioner/chain replaced. It seems like the majority of the guys that have it give out are at 100k+.

Dude! I wouldn't wait if I were you... I was at about 100k when I did mine and replaced it within weeks of learning about the issue. I wouldn't risk it... that's a big bill. Would hate to see a fellow Pacific Northwesterner fall victim to this!

Oh, that reminds me - I already have /most/ of the tools for the job. If you plan on doing it yourself let me know, you're welcome to borrow the tools. I even have an extra unopened tube of that special Audi sealant.

The way I see it, you're not losing anything by doing this preventive maintenance "early". If you replace all the chains, guides, rails, tensioners, etc with the latest versions you'll never have to do it again unless you plan on keeping it past 200k miles or so =P.

[BeerBrent]

Dude! I wouldn't wait if I were you... I was at about 100k when I did mine and replaced it within weeks of learning about the issue. I wouldn't risk it... that's a big bill. Would hate to see a fellow Pacific Northwesterner fall victim to this!

Oh, that reminds me - I already have /most/ of the tools for the job. If you plan on doing it yourself let me know, you're welcome to borrow the tools. I even have an extra unopened tube of that special Audi sealant.

The way I see it, you're not losing anything by doing this preventive maintenance "early". If you replace all the chains, guides, rails, tensioners, etc with the latest versions you'll never have to do it again unless you plan on keeping it past 200k miles or so =P.

Thanks! But cant afford it right now. But definitely starting to save $$ for it.

[old guy]

I haven't read through this whole thread yet so forgive me if this has already been posted. I came across it in the CC forum. vw-audi-timing-chain-tensioner-lawsuit (https://www.carcomplaints.com/alerts/mcw-vw-audi-timing-chain-tensioner-lawsuit.shtml)

[Novarider]

Having mine replaced now. I can't do it myself right now (my wife just had a double lung transplant) so I'm paying $900 to have the chains, guides and tensioners replaced. My Avant is at 100k miles and the worrying about the chain is killing me.

[wkhanna]

Having mine replaced now. I can't do it myself right now (my wife just had a double lung transplant) so I'm paying $900 to have the chains, guides and tensioners replaced. My Avant is at 100k miles and the worrying about the chain is killing me.

its good peace of mind......

btw, i have been through lung xplant eval & approved for single, but am still considered too 'healthy', with just under 30% function, to be put on the list.....
honestly, i am not in a hurry ..........

my thoughts are with you both......
...which hospital...?

[wkhanna]

I haven't read through this whole thread yet so forgive me if this has already been posted. I came across it in the CC forum. vw-audi-timing-chain-tensioner-lawsuit (https://www.carcomplaints.com/alerts/mcw-vw-audi-timing-chain-tensioner-lawsuit.shtml)

thanks for that, OG...!

[Novarider]

its good peace of mind......

btw, i have been through lung xplant eval & approved for single, but am still considered too 'healthy', with just under 30% function, to be put on the list.....
honestly, i am not in a hurry ..........

my thoughts are with you both......
...which hospital...?

Vanderbilt in Nashville TN.

Good luck. It's a lot to take on but it's worth it.

[wkhanna]

i have heard that it is a good hospital......
it takes special a kind of people to handle such a thing......i am sure guys have what it takes!

you have my admiration & hopes for many more years of creating wonderful memories.
be well,

bill

[Azdramos]

Oil consumption history would be useful to hear. When I have talked to dealers, they tell me to not worry because this failure only happens when someone consistently lets their oil get low, and that you will hear weird noises well ahead of any failure (I know, laughable)

This weekend, I ordered parts to replace my tensioner. Have seen enough tensioner issues now that I feel uncomfortable with the stock unit at 106,000 miles.




mine went out at 106500, you made a good choice [up]

[blbroo]

mine went out at 106500, you made a good choice [up]

Yep. Mine was down to about a tooth and a half before it failed.

[Azdramos]

Yep. Mine was down to about a tooth and a half before it failed.

Mine skipped 11 teeth when i was at a gas station, getting gas on my way to my techs house cus i had ANOTHER misfire issue in the last 4 months, making it my 3rd.
but on the bright side, im getting my engine put back together over the next few days.
Audi also told me i gotta give them 8k for the engine... told me its either 8k, or you take your car. I fixed it under 2k.