Mechatronics repair kit is done, with a little DIY.........

[hdmlnium1]

Ok, first off as many of you know I had the failing Mechatronics (Gearbox Malfunction, You may continue to drive at a limited use) issue with my car.
It just turned 35k miles, and because of the mods on my car it couldn't be fixed under warranty.
I had a bunch of people reply to my other threads I started giving me great advise.
So I ordered the ECS Tuning Mechatronics Repair kit. It is like $380 or so.
A few people were saying it was a fairly big job. It really isn't a bad job at all.
I think that most people with some mechanical ability could do this repair themelves and save a ton of money compaired to having a dealer do the work.
I wrote out a little Do It Yourself below to help people decide if this option is good for them.
I just had my 35k mile service done a couple weeks ago, so I drained the new DSG fluid into 2 clean gallon jugs so I could re-use and save money.
I did have to run to the Audi dealer to buy one more quart to get the level just right.
It was about a 3 hour repair, and pretty straight forward in my opinion, for sure most people could do this repair themselves.
So a under $600 dollar option even buying all new DSG fluid for the people that want to save the money and do the repair themselves.
So far the car is driving great, shifting great, seems even smoother with no issues.

Thanks agin to this forum and the forum members on here, you guys are great
On to the do it Yourself.......
Bill



No instructions came with the kit. ITS real easy though in my opinion.
Her is a quick run down.
If you have a lift it would be easier, but could be done on jack stands if you had to.
1. Lift car up.
2. Take plastic splash pan down
3. Remove the x brace, or what ever its called. There is a bolt on the top of it that holds a line, so make sure to remove that.
4. Drain fluid from pan, drain plug in the bottom of pan, fill plug on the side of the transmission on drivers side.
5. Remove the transmission pan bolts, set a side.
6. Unbolt the lines going into the side of the transmission, pry out gently, they are o-ringed, I put a spacer in between the lines and transmission to keep them out far enough to pull down the Mechatronics unit.
6. Pull out the filter, and unplug the harness.
7.. Remove only the 6 bolts that hold up the Mechatronics unit, they are the six smaller head bolts.
8. Pull down on the Mechatronics unit and set it on a clean work area. I used the box that the repair kit came in as it is messy work.
9. Unplug the 2 electric connections and un screw the bolts that hold the 2 plastic pieces that you are replacing. Remove these now.
10. Replace the green seals that you see now and the kit does come with new ones.
11. Put on the new 2 plastic units and push down firmly to seat them. Put the new screws in that the kit does come with and tighten. DON'T forget to plug both of these back in now.
12.there is 4 hooks on the Mechatronics unit, must be solenoids I guess so when you put this unit back up now make sure all 4 hook into the ones inside the transmission, my first attempt I only hooked three so I had to pull it back down and try again. Second time worked, got all 4.
13. Put the 6 bolts you took out back in, push the lines back in and make sure they seat, put filter back in, plug back in the electrical connection, then put the pan back on. Your now ready to put everything back together.
refill the fluid till it starts to come out the fill hole.
Start car, go through the gears with foot on brake. Get the transmission temp between 40 to 50 degrees c and check the fill hole and see if the level is still up, if not put some more in and finish up putting everything you took off back on.
Now your ready for a test drive. JOB WELL DONE IF SHE SHIFTS GREAT..
Bill

[will13k7]

that's nice to see it's not automatically a 10K+ repair anymore, might cause people to hold onto the car longer?

[s4buckeye]

bro, why no pics?

[hdmlnium1]

bro, why no pics?

Wasn't planning on writing up a do it yourself, plus that DSG fluid is messy and didn't want to get it all over my phone. lol
Sorry no pics, but i tried to write it up the best i could by just thinking back to all the steps after it was all put back together and I cleaned up.
Bill

[jsh139]

Glad to hear this went well. Update us after you put on a few miles.

[Wreckm]

that's nice to see it's not automatically a 10K+ repair anymore, might cause people to hold onto the car longer?

exactly what i was thinking. Was just thinking about selling my 2010 60k dsg and getting into a 6spd.

[BillyG]

Glad to see that things worked out for you. Nice job on the repair!

[wwhan]

bro, why no pics?

There are some pictures here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/683538-Question-on-the-Mech-Unit-DSG-Transmission?p=11283180&viewfull=1#post11283180

[mrmomo313]

that's nice to see it's not automatically a 10K+ repair anymore, might cause people to hold onto the car longer?

Unfortunately the repair doesn't work in all cases. It's worth doing before replacing the whole mech unit especially if you aren't paying dealer labor rates..

I went down the same road with my 2010. Opted to do the repair after a tech from Audi NA inspected the car and advised to do so.. All seemed fine for a short while (maybe a few hundred miles) and then the funky shift behaviors started occurring slowly.. Sure enough roughly 2k miles later and the mech unit failed. Replaced it for 4500 OTD.

[Deckdout2]

Nice work! This will come in handy in the future.

[jayts]

Sticky this mofo


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[jchou1491]

Hi hdmlnium1,

Is the mechatronics repair kit still working well for you? I have not gotten any fault codes, but have issues with jerking in slow traffic and low speeds and was looking to get this fixed. Thanks!

[RudyH]

Hi hdmlnium1,

Is the mechatronics repair kit still working well for you? I have not gotten any fault codes, but have issues with jerking in slow traffic and low speeds and was looking to get this fixed. Thanks!

This worked for me - to chime in.
However I had fault codes, bells and whistles going off before I replaced it

[Biggame]

thanks for taking the time to write this out... actually does give a little more confidence to those intending to keep the car

[LocoLobo]

Any updates on this? I'm curious about how it's working now.... I don't have any current issues with my DSG but I'm wondering if it's going to give me problems in the future because I just hit 100k.

[Dr GP]

that's nice to see it's not automatically a 10K+ repair anymore, might cause people to hold onto the car longer?

Pun intended?

[christianb5s4]

All, I'm in the market for a B8 S4 and wanted to ask a few questions about the DSG issues around the Mechatronic unit. To be clear I'm looking at 2010-2012 and some of them are in the 100-130k mile range, here are my couple of questions if anyone can provide some insight:

- How common is it to have DSG problems by this mileage range?
- Is there a way to test drive a car and do a certain procedure that can show if there's a problem or not if the warnings are not on?

[sacandagaD]

- Is there a way to test drive a car and do a certain procedure that can show if there's a problem or not if the warnings are not on?

Launch it a couple of times when test driving. [drive]

[LocoLobo]

I'm sitting at 125K miles now without any issues with my mech unit yet (knock on wood). I've got a 2011, and I drive it daily.

Heck, just buy mine. I'll let you know all the ins and outs of mine.

[DsgDame]

Hi, I’m new here and I have an 2011 Audi S4 with the dsg trans and I’m getting the gearbox malfunction, parking brake malfunction message, any advice?

[christianb5s4]

I'm sitting at 125K miles now without any issues with my mech unit yet (knock on wood). I've got a 2011, and I drive it daily.

Heck, just buy mine. I'll let you know all the ins and outs of mine.

Thanks for the insight, I know forums are a more vocal minority of the car world so problems tend to get posted here in a higher percentage than the general population of cars. I'm looking at C6 A6 3.0t prestiges and B8 S4s as a daily driver and am trying to decide between the two.

[N_Ortiz_S4]

I’m currently doing this repair myself on my B8 S4, after “Gearbox Malfuntion, you may continue driving” warning and TPSM Malfuntion warning came on.
No reverse, only 1st, 3rd, 5th & 7th gear available.
I’m waiting on parts to come in hopefully putting it back in next weekend.
I found the Repair Kit for cheaper here: https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-parts/audi-repair-kit-0b5398009e
Rather than ECS Tunning’s $400+/-
I will post update after repair is done. 🤞🏼

[N_Ortiz_S4]

Finished the repair Saturday morning. (Weekend warrior)
I bought the “repair kit” and that solved my issue.
I must say this is a fairly easy DIY even tho I did it in my garage with jack stands and ramps, had less that 2 ft. clearance.
I would imagine that doing it with a lift it’s 10 times easier.
Feel free to msg me with questions I won’t mind sharing on my experience.

[AFAndrew]

So did the repair today and it was not mentioned that the electrical connector is on there. And so the damn cable tore. Any thoughts on repairing this. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180915/6cef5e16fc6b65e93b14463a6a0c431c.jpg


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[Soft]

So did the repair today and it was not mentioned that the electrical connector is on there. And so the damn cable tore. Any thoughts on repairing this. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180915/6cef5e16fc6b65e93b14463a6a0c431c.jpg


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Ouch!, was that during replacing the repair kit ?

[AFAndrew]

Ouch!, was that during replacing the repair kit ?

Yes it did:( luckily i found a friend who had a replacement module. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180920/c0d71a89b67d0982011b0c48c0bc36f8.jpg


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[AFAndrew]

Yes it did:( luckily i found a friend who had a replacement module. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180920/c0d71a89b67d0982011b0c48c0bc36f8.jpg


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Now i need to remove the CP on it so i can actually drive it


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[vincenz0]

Been researching this a little bit. My 2010 S4 with DSG is starting to act a little funky (seems to be getting worse) in stop and go traffic, which is my usual commute here in the SF Bay Area. No lights on the dash or anything yet, but the car has 104k miles on it so I'm a little concerned. In stop and go traffic it's pretty "jerky" and occasionally I see the RPMs bouncing up and down a bit, even when I'm doing about 5 mph. I don't know what to make of it but was researching this fix as a possibility.

[LocoLobo]

AFAndrew, is that the entire mechatronics module in the photo? did you remove it with the transmission in the car?

Could you share some basic instructions on how you got it out if it is the mech unit?


Yes it did:( luckily i found a friend who had a replacement module. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180920/c0d71a89b67d0982011b0c48c0bc36f8.jpg


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[djsp00kyk]

I just finished replacing the mechatronic unit in my car today. The job really isn't too bad and took about 3.5-4 hours total, in my garage, using jack stands. I have a 2012 with 156k miles and epl stage 2 so I am very lucky that the car made it this long without a failure. For reference, this manual was very useful along with the diy posted in the OP.
https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a5/power_transmission/7-speed_dual_clutch_gearbox_0b5_%28s_tronic%29/gearboxmechanicsgearsshaftsinternal_operation/mechatronic_unit_for_dual_clutch_gearboxj743/removing_and_installing_mechatronic_unit_for_dual_ clutch_gearboxj743/

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[LocoLobo]

So the transmission remains in the car, and you just remove filter cover and it's right there?

[djsp00kyk]

So the transmission remains in the car, and you just remove filter cover and it's right there?Yes, pull the pan and six bolts hold the mechatronic unit up. It drops out of the transmission and you can set it on a bench and swap the pcb/wiring harness out. Here are some screenshots of my snap story, the quality isn't the best because these are screenshots from videos. There are a few of the unit dropped out of the transmission, one shot is up in the transmission with the unit removed. I would also recommend a pressurized fill system like the one pictured, it makes adding fluid so much easier. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/515879b3c5bf6b2fdb277235a54ce651.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/50a3e6c793e0c3f9d4aa3eb61e89f3ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/d77baf549da0aeb0c5355b34d897636c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/e5ecfca3424bd4315b1c57e95524fb23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/7d0a94b61d83dc9a278a15a0b44a1fcf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/d5ead871cd87ba9f67a1f4ee0d1a3053.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/d07a6b3e8d073e2c723b3fd6fcb5d9be.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/a154d32ed567dc466747c0d14bd25b7b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/f327ca4d0abb9a8ba210281a6481fc7b.jpg

[LocoLobo]

Good info, thanks for sharing. My mech unit has been in the back of my mind for a while now, funny shifting here and there but never thrown any codes. Apparently it's normal for DSGs... I figured I would drive until it fails then get a TCU tune at the same time as mech unit replacement.

[paitobp]

I don't know if it was mentioned, but the new part is 0B5-398-009-F and now it Includes the valve block wiring and speed sensor with cable. I wonder if that is because Audi found out it was also failing.

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[s42014DSG]

I don't know if it was mentioned, but the new part is 0B5-398-009-F and now it Includes the valve block wiring and speed sensor with cable. I wonder if that is because Audi found out it was also failing.

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How recently was this new part added, do you know? Thx!

[epalacios]

How recently was this new part added, do you know? Thx!I just ordered it about a week ago and had originally got the E but the company sent me a message that they no longer provide the E version as of Februrary 2018. Any that were sold after that point where those that were already in stock and were at a lowered price. See picture below.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181009/ef3ac3aa734f66d0c395850bd50b979d.jpg

[epalacios]

I just finished replacing the mechatronic unit in my car today. The job really isn't too bad and took about 3.5-4 hours total, in my garage, using jack stands. I have a 2012 with 156k miles and epl stage 2 so I am very lucky that the car made it this long without a failure. For reference, this manual was very useful along with the diy posted in the OP.
https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a5/power_transmission/7-speed_dual_clutch_gearbox_0b5_%28s_tronic%29/gearboxmechanicsgearsshaftsinternal_operation/mechatronic_unit_for_dual_clutch_gearboxj743/removing_and_installing_mechatronic_unit_for_dual_ clutch_gearboxj743/

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using TapatalkHow easily did your mechatronic unit drop out. I took out the six bolts holding it to the dsg and wouldn't budge at all. Did you have to pry it out or did it already want to drop as you were loosening the bolts!

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[djsp00kyk]

How easily did your mechatronic unit drop out. I took out the six bolts holding it to the dsg and wouldn't budge at all. Did you have to pry it out or did it already want to drop as you were loosening the bolts!

Sent from my SM-G892A using TapatalkI had to pry, leave 2 bolts barely threaded and pry gently from one side to the other. Once the until reached the two bolts, I supported the unit, removed the bolts and the unit pretty much released under its own weight from there.

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[Soft]

Ouch!, was that during replacing the repair kit ?

I'm about to do the same, I do however struggle to understand where that round male plug sits?.
Mine is corroded down on some of the pins, and seems to be working if we clean them, and force the female to make contact.
it is only one or two that are corroded down, due to ingress of coolant.
So the garage (indy) told me to get a set of "repair kit" or cable kit.
I have seen the Mechatronic repair kits, fine, but there is no round plug on those, so I'm bewildered now:-)

Any help would be saluted ! :-)

Q: Do I need the whole (2 pieces ) PCB kit
Q: Do I need the gaskets and other stuff/filter in the extended rep kit ?
Q: Is there a cable/connector (outside the Mechatronic) kit?
Q: Do I have to replace the coolant pump thing that pushes coolant into the plug?
All advice are welcomed ....

[Dark-e]

80k on my 2010 s4 getting a transmission flush and filter today. No lights or indications of failure. Hoping that it holds up for awhile with no issues. Unitronic stage 1+ also being installed today.

[TC_S4]

After replacing the mechatronic, do you need to do some kind of transmission adaptation with VCDS?

[ahhrevenge]

Any update on this topic? How is the repair holding up?

[RPMtech147]

bro, why no pics?

C'mon OP!

[SpawnyWhippet]

I actually cannot get my mechatronic out. I have it all undone and movable but the cable connector seems to be hung up on the plastic piece that goes through the trans housing for the electronics harness. I removed a torx screw holding that connector tube to the outside but still cannot remove the mech. I watched about 10 videos and nobody mentions this harness or how to deal with it. Any tips?

[Ai_barber_guy]

Ok, first off as many of you know I had the failing Mechatronics (Gearbox Malfunction, You may continue to drive at a limited use) issue with my car.
It just turned 35k miles, and because of the mods on my car it couldn't be fixed under warranty.
I had a bunch of people reply to my other threads I started giving me great advise.
So I ordered the ECS Tuning Mechatronics Repair kit. It is like $380 or so.
A few people were saying it was a fairly big job. It really isn't a bad job at all.
I think that most people with some mechanical ability could do this repair themelves and save a ton of money compaired to having a dealer do the work.
I wrote out a little Do It Yourself below to help people decide if this option is good for them.
I just had my 35k mile service done a couple weeks ago, so I drained the new DSG fluid into 2 clean gallon jugs so I could re-use and save money.
I did have to run to the Audi dealer to buy one more quart to get the level just right.
It was about a 3 hour repair, and pretty straight forward in my opinion, for sure most people could do this repair themselves.
So a under $600 dollar option even buying all new DSG fluid for the people that want to save the money and do the repair themselves.
So far the car is driving great, shifting great, seems even smoother with no issues.

Thanks agin to this forum and the forum members on here, you guys are great
On to the do it Yourself.......
Bill



No instructions came with the kit. ITS real easy though in my opinion.
Her is a quick run down.
If you have a lift it would be easier, but could be done on jack stands if you had to.
1. Lift car up.
2. Take plastic splash pan down
3. Remove the x brace, or what ever its called. There is a bolt on the top of it that holds a line, so make sure to remove that.
4. Drain fluid from pan, drain plug in the bottom of pan, fill plug on the side of the transmission on drivers side.
5. Remove the transmission pan bolts, set a side.
6. Unbolt the lines going into the side of the transmission, pry out gently, they are o-ringed, I put a spacer in between the lines and transmission to keep them out far enough to pull down the Mechatronics unit.
6. Pull out the filter, and unplug the harness.
7.. Remove only the 6 bolts that hold up the Mechatronics unit, they are the six smaller head bolts.
8. Pull down on the Mechatronics unit and set it on a clean work area. I used the box that the repair kit came in as it is messy work.
9. Unplug the 2 electric connections and un screw the bolts that hold the 2 plastic pieces that you are replacing. Remove these now.
10. Replace the green seals that you see now and the kit does come with new ones.
11. Put on the new 2 plastic units and push down firmly to seat them. Put the new screws in that the kit does come with and tighten. DON'T forget to plug both of these back in now.
12.there is 4 hooks on the Mechatronics unit, must be solenoids I guess so when you put this unit back up now make sure all 4 hook into the ones inside the transmission, my first attempt I only hooked three so I had to pull it back down and try again. Second time worked, got all 4.
13. Put the 6 bolts you took out back in, push the lines back in and make sure they seat, put filter back in, plug back in the electrical connection, then put the pan back on. Your now ready to put everything back together.
refill the fluid till it starts to come out the fill hole.
Start car, go through the gears with foot on brake. Get the transmission temp between 40 to 50 degrees c and check the fill hole and see if the level is still up, if not put some more in and finish up putting everything you took off back on.
Now your ready for a test drive. JOB WELL DONE IF SHE SHIFTS GREAT..
Bill

Hey Bill, I know this thread is old, maybe your still on here? Was these all the exact steps? Anything missing? Cars in park I'd imagine. Any reprigraming? Here we are in 2022.

[WurstS4]

Was wondering for anyone who did this, did you reuse any gaskets or filters?

I just had the DSG service done maybe 8500 miles ago. I'm going to use all new fluid, new bolts, and almost certainly new gaskets, but I'm wondering if I can reuse the metal pan gasket and the internal filter. For OEM, those are like $150ish on their own.

[WurstS4]

Was wondering for anyone who did this, did you reuse any gaskets or filters?

I just had the DSG service done maybe 8500 miles ago. I'm going to use all new fluid, new bolts, and almost certainly new gaskets, but I'm wondering if I can reuse the metal pan gasket and the internal filter. For OEM, those are like $150ish on their own.

Also, for reference, the mechanic who did the service for me told me the DSG fluid and filters looked almost brand new and he thought the DSG service had been done recently on the car. It had about 61,500 on it when he did it and the original was done at about 36k.

[Corydms7]

I was told that you need to make sure all 4 forks are in the “neutral” position before installing mech unit. I was also told you must set the gear valves using a vernier caliper to a certain mm spec. Can anyone confirm this? Do I have to spec the valves to the mm specification on my old unit or only if you’re replacing your old unit with an entirely new one?

[S4'ed]

Yes, all 4 shift forks (part of the transmission) need to be in the center ("neutral") position before the Mechatronic is reinstalled. The Mechatronic gear valves (actually the gear servos) must also be in the center neutral position (as set by the 15mm measurement) so that the servo finger fits into the corresponding hole of each of the four shift forks, when the Mechatronic is installed. This alignment must be correct, when reinstalling either the original Mechatronic, or installing a new Mechatronic unit. If the alignment is not correct, then the Mechatronic unit will not seat all the way up into the transmission housing.

[WurstS4]

Yes it did:( luckily i found a friend who had a replacement module. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180920/c0d71a89b67d0982011b0c48c0bc36f8.jpg


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So you had to replace the entire mechatronics unit?

Or just the connector and ribbon cord?

Mine is torn as well, but horizontally and not all the way through and it's losing communication with the module.

[Thomas@TAI-VW]

Best way to do this is purchase the kit that comes with the ribbons and 3 solenoids. They have Chinese ones on ebay with "rebuilt" solenoids and supposedly aftermarket ribbons,but I searched and found a set out of Europe for $550.00,and it was OEM. I had a B8 with slipping reverse and 1-2 was "slippy". I was certain it was the clutch packs, but a little investigation into the stored fault for "clutch 2 pressure too high" led me to replace the parts I mentioned. I did the job yesterday,it took me 3 hours and I was being very careful.and it fixed the problem completely. Long story short...if you don't have faults for gear sensors or clutch slippage,then the full rebuild kit is the way to go. Good luck!

[WurstS4]

Best way to do this is purchase the kit that comes with the ribbons and 3 solenoids. They have Chinese ones on ebay with "rebuilt" solenoids and supposedly aftermarket ribbons,but I searched and found a set out of Europe for $550.00,and it was OEM. I had a B8 with slipping reverse and 1-2 was "slippy". I was certain it was the clutch packs, but a little investigation into the stored fault for "clutch 2 pressure too high" led me to replace the parts I mentioned. I did the job yesterday,it took me 3 hours and I was being very careful.and it fixed the problem completely. Long story short...if you don't have faults for gear sensors or clutch slippage,then the full rebuild kit is the way to go. Good luck!

The ribbon connector is soldered into the transmission control module. Mine was ripped all the way through horizontally in 2 spots when reinstalled.

I applied my mechanic with the legit one from OEMVWShop.com included solenoids.

Mechanic and myself are having a lot of trouble locating a transmission control module with the exact same part number. All on Ebay have a different letter at the end. Seem to have it on Alibaba, but all seem to be Chinese aftermarket, might have to resort to that. Worried about recoding issues though, or faulty part.

[S4'ed]

Thomas@TAI-VW:
Specifically what kit "with the ribbons and 3 solenoids" did you buy to fix your "clutch 2 pressure too high" problem?
Can you post a link to the Ebay, or other ones you found?

[Shane Horning]

I actually cannot get my mechatronic out. I have it all undone and movable but the cable connector seems to be hung up on the plastic piece that goes through the trans housing for the electronics harness. I removed a torx screw holding that connector tube to the outside but still cannot remove the mech. I watched about 10 videos and nobody mentions this harness or how to deal with it. Any tips?You need to remove the t30 holding that plastic piece where the tcu harness attaches and turn it counterclockwise to remove the black plastic piece then mech unit drops down

[HVSU_K5]

I saw a video of installing a NEW mechatronic unit... that video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7qTKHTjMjo) stated needing to have dealer program the unit after install, however this post doesnt mention that.... does this mean programming ia required ONLY if installing new mechantronic and NOT if repairing an existing unit?

Also, my Q7 in an 8 speed. Is anyone aware of a mechatronic repair kit for a 2016-2019 Q7 Quattro?

[Nillious]

I believe the 8 speed is a standad torque converter transmission. I think it will have a standard valve body.