So you want to build your engine… Well, here’s how to do it. [Archive]

View Full Version : So you want to build your engine… Well, here’s how to do it.

aluthman

11-30-2015, 06:29 PM

As many of you may know, I have been battling with oil consumption for about a year now & have lost every battle in the war. When I first noticed the problem, I was burning about a quart every 1200-1300 miles. That was pretty easy to live with, but it was somewhat annoying, so I set out to fix it.

I tried everything under the sun: rebuilt turbo, new valve cover, new turbo drain line, BSH PCV plate, stock pcv, catch can setup, PCV vent to exhaust, valve guides, valve seals. All to no avail. The compression & leakdown results I got lead me to believe that my rings were ok (~170 psi & 4-6% leakdown on all cylinders). I guess I was mistaken. There is nowhere left to go but rings at this point, which is really upsetting since I only had about 46k miles on this built engine.

So what’s a guy to do? I considered parting the car, selling as-is, trading it in etc. In the end, I decided that a new motor was my ticket to happiness. I have too much money into this damn thing to quit now, & there is so much more I want to do with the car. I’ve even got a DTM front bumper in the basement that got back-burnered.

In order to minimize the downtime of the car & the garage, I figured that I should build a second motor & then just swap out the short blocks. I have my S10 to drive in the meantime, but I want the B7 on standby for those super snowy New England storms. I’ll just need to keep the oil topped off until the new engine is ready.

I started looking around & snagged a BPY 2.0 engine off of ebay for $350. For those that don’t know, the BPY is interchangeable with the BPG & BWT engines, but since it is a transverse engine, you need to swap the accessory mounts, oil pan, & oil pickup tube. Luckily for me, it was only about an hour & a half drive away to pick it up. The seller said that it had some bent valves that needed replaced, so I thought it would be a pretty quick wham-bam-thank-you-ma’am & back in business type of deal. Here it is after picking it up:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshukcohyb.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshukcohyb.jpeg.html)

Doesn’t look too shabby on the outside, does it?

Well, it was a colossal train wreck on the inside, far worse than just some bent valves. The first thing I noticed was that the cam gear would not spin at all. I initially assumed (incorrectly), that this was just due to spring pressure. After talking with Mec, I found out that it should still be able to move by hand, even if it’s just a little bit. Time for surgery:

I pulled the valve cover & cam tray first to try to find out why the cams weren’t spinning.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsmfarglfh.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsmfarglfh.jpeg.html)

So much for the hope that it was just bent valves keeping everything from moving. The cams were seized up tighter than an 18 year old on prom night, presumably due to a loss of oil pressure. Bad news: the cam bearings are part of the head casting & are not replaceable/repairable, aka this head is junk. Good news: Hahaha, gotcha. There isn’t any. Time for a full on autopsy, & I’m afraid what I’m going to find.

Fast forward a few bolts & this is what I see:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsbdvxif2t.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsbdvxif2t.jpeg.html)

Well, sum bitch. That’s not good. Sure enough, the balance shafts seized in this motor, which snapped the oil pump drive chain, which causes a loss of oil pressure & bearings start wiping. Time to check on the main & rod bearings, so I unbolt everything & pull the crank.

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Everything looks fine, except the #3 main bearing, which has just started to wipe. The oil pump drive sprocket on the front of the crank is wrecked, but that’s a replaceable part. So I brought the crank to my local machine shop (Larry’s Auto Machine in Groton, CT for anyone local), & had them check it out. They were able to polish the crank journals & clean it all up without having to really remove any material. A few bucks later & I have a gorgeous crank that looks like new.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps1wd8hwth.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps1wd8hwth.jpeg.html)

With that out of the way, I need to focus on what else is still useable. The block looks to be perfectly fine with no scoring on any cylinders. Sweet, that’s a point for me. The rods & pistons seem to be fine, but stock rods blow donkey balls & who wants cast pistons? AZ to the rescue! I make a quick post & Derrek offers me his set of BPG forged pistons for the cost of shipping. Thanks! Here they are after some time in the ultrasonic cleaner with some Simple Green & hot water.

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The pistons look great & even have most of the factory coating remaining on the skirts. The wrist pins looked a little less pretty. He admittedly beat on his motor & these pins had 145k miles on them when removed.

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Lucky for me, the wrist pins I just took out of the motor looked pretty good with only slight wear marks.

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From here, the wasn’t much else I could do but finish stripping down the block & collecting part for the build. Time to start searching.

Yet again an AZ member comes to the rescue. Vce1232000 offers me a B7 oil pan for the cost of shipping since I obviously can’t use the transverse oil pan that was on engine. Here she is after some quick cleaning, although I plan to get it hot tanked at the machine shop prior to actual assembly.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsi1mdwhoj.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsi1mdwhoj.jpg.html)

A few purchases through the AZ classifieds later & I have me a set of IE rifle drilled drop in rods, a Brush Research ball hone, & a set of OEM Mahle piston rings for my new (to me) forged pistons.

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Right now, I’m almost ready to commence with the build. I just need to get the block cleaned up & ready for some paint, because who wants an ugly engine? Here she is all stripped down & ready to get bead blasted & hot tanked.

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For those that are curious, the lower dipstick tube is pressed in & can be removed by using a small socket on an extension & tapping it out with a hammer.

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The rest of the engine is pretty self explanatory for disassembly. Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty & whatnot. If you can’t figure out how to take it apart, you may want to rethink trying to build one. The DIY portion of this job will commence once I get the block back from the machine shop & I can start by honing the cylinders.

Since I didn’t already have these, I went to ebay & found me an inside & outside micrometer made by Starrett for about $140 shipped. Not bad considering what they sell for new.

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After some searching, I finally decided on a Fowler dial bore gauge. It should more than suffice for what I need it for. I got it off Amazon for just over $100 I think..

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I’ll show how to use it later.

Finally was able to pick up all my parts from the machine shop today! I was hoping that the block would have less paint on it, but I didn’t want to mess with decking the block or anything crazy from additional time in the shot blast cabinet.

The oil pan came back looking almost like new.

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I also had the crowns milled off the oem pistons in order to drop the compression a bit. I just had them milled flush with the rest of the piston. They all currently weigh within a gram of each other also. This seemed to be the most cost effective way to reliably drop compression. It was even cheaper than a compression dropping head gasket since it only cost me an hour of labor at the machine shop ($125/hr). There was about 18.1g of aluminum removed from each piston, so using the thumbrule of 2.8g/cc, I gained about 6.5cc of combustion chamber volume. This equates to a static compression ratio of just under 9.5:1, which is exactly what I was shooting for.

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On to the block prep! I wanted to get all the dirty stuff done at once & then only have to clean the block once. I started by cleaning up the deck of the block by using an angle die grinder & a yellor 3M Roloc bristle disc. I just wanted to make sure I had a good surface for the head gasket. The shot blasting left a mostly smooth finish already, but this effectively polished the surface. You also don’t have to worry too much about hurting the block with this tool. The aluminum head is a different story however.

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Next up, was to run a tap down all the threaded holes to clean them up. Since this block came from a transverse setup, some of the holes I will need were not used before & had developed a decent amount of rust. Shot blasting can also roll the first thread over if you leave it in there long enough. I just wanted everything to be good, so I chased all the threads.

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Now it was time to turn my attention to the cylinder bores. Here is how they looked after the time spent in the shot blast cabinet. It’s a far cry from what we want them to look like.

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In order to clean these up, I used a Brush Research 240 grit 3.5” ball hone. As a lubricant, I used conventional 10w-30 motor oil, since that is what was recommended on the box the hone came in. I figured they knew better than me. A lot of people also use ATF for this with success. I doubt it makes that much difference.

The process I used was one I found online. I did 7 slow passes while spinning the drill CW & then another 7 slow passes CCW. Then I reversed the drill again & did 7 fast passes in order to get the ~45 degree cross hatch I wanted. The recommended speed for the hone is 600-800 rpm, but my slow speed drill only goes to 550 rpm. Oh well. Here is a video of me honing the last cylinder. I forgot which case I had on my GoPro, so the sound is really quiet, but I’m not about to re-hone my cylinder just to get a good video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pPVZQANkn0&feature=youtu.be

After all the honing is done, it’s time to clean the block. Wipe everything out with a rag to start with. Then get some hot soapy water & some brushes. I used a wheel brush in the bores & a gun cleaning rod with brass bristle brush for the oil galleys.

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http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps17irgzyo.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps17irgzyo.jpeg.html)

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After you have everything scrubbed down, hose it down/out very well.

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When you have everything clean, you need to dry the block with compressed air. Don’t wait to do this. Remember you have exposed cast iron that will flash rust in your cylinders in a matter of minutes. After everything is dry, spray the block down with WD-40 to displace any remaining moisture.

Here are the finished cylinders.

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After using a combination of a 4” wire cup brush on my grinder & a compact needle scaler, I was ready to paint the block. I ended up using soap & water to scrub it down again to remove the WD-40. I wiped a little Marvel Mystery oil on the cylinder bores & internal machined surfaces to protect from rust. DO NOT USE ANYTHING AEROSOL or your paint won’t stick for shit. Just wipe it on & keep the exterior of the block free from oil. Make sure it’s clean & dry. I used VHT high temp primer & engine paint for this, but anything similar should work fine.

Mask it.
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Prime it.
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Paint it.
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aluthman

11-30-2015, 06:30 PM

Remove tape. I used some lacquer thinner on a clean rag to remove paint from areas I didn’t want painted, such as the threaded holes & knock sensor mounts.
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Since the lower dipstick tube is pressed into the block at the factory, I had to figure out a way to get it back in. This is what I came up with. It's just a section of aluminum tubing cut and notched to use as a drift for pounding the dipstick tube back in.
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It worked out really well, and after a few taps with a dead blow hammer it was seated in the block.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps01ym6jiy.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps01ym6jiy.jpeg.html)

Since the balance shafts seized in this engine & tore up the oil pump drive sprocket on the crank, I needed to install a new one. This part is available from a few places, but I got mine from IE. I had previously removed the damaged gear with a 3 jaw puller, so that was already done. The gear is press-fit onto the crank, so you can’t just slip it on. This is as far as it will slide on easily. (When installing the new gear, the chamfered side goes towards the crank.)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpskoxxafis.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpskoxxafis.jpeg.html)

In order to get the gear on the rest of the way, you need to heat up & expand the gear. I used a propane torch for this, but MAPP gas or oxy/acetylene would probably have worked better.

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Once you have the gear good & hot, place a big socket over the crank snout & use a dead blow hammer to drive the gear home.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsdcikozid.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsdcikozid.jpeg.html)
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Time to start actually putting some things together. Let’s start by installing the new main bearings & checking bearing clearances. I will be doing this with both a dial bore gauge & with Plastigage. I’m curious to see how they compare.

I’m using ARP main studs again in this engine because extra strength is always a good thing & because I can torque & re-torque them multiple times without replacing them unlike the stock TTY bolts. Prior to installing the studs, make sure all the holes are clean & dry. Thread the studs in by hand until they fully seat. You can use a 4mm allen wrench/hex driver to help with this, but do not torque them. I just installed them as tight as 2 fingers could get them.

Then place the grooved bearing halves in place on the block. Start by aligning the tanged side & them press them in place with your fingers.

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Install the smooth bearing halves in the main bearing caps now.

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Use a dead blow mallet to tap the caps in place. The tangs for each bearing half should be on the same side of the block (intake side).

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Now lube up the threads on the studs & the flat surface of the nuts with ARP Ultra-Torque fastener lubricant. A small sleeve of this is included with each stud kit, but I happened to have a larger tube that was already open. This lubricant is required in order to accurately duplicate the required clamping force with the torque values specified.

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Now torque the nuts to 70 ft-lbs. in three incremental steps. I did 20 ft-lbs, then 40 ft-lbs, & then the full amount of 70 ft-lbs.

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Now we are ready to check the clearance of the bearing. Start by getting your micrometer ready. Mine has interchangeable anvils, so I put in the 2”-3” anvil & checked it against the 2” standard. It was dead nuts on.

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Next, I set the micrometer to the thickness of the main journals on the crank. Luckily, I only had to do this once because all of my main journals measured exactly the same at 2.125” (This is actually me measuring the rod journal, but the technique is no different).

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Now we need to set & zero the dial bore gauge to 2.125” using the micrometer. By doing this, any deflection in the dial bore gauge will show us the deviation from the set measurement which just so happens to be out bearing clearance.

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Now you want to carefully place the measuring head inside the bearing, being sure you are on a flat surface & not in the oiling groove. Give the bore gauge a small rock & find the spot where the needle is closest to zero. This is your reading & your bearing clearance. This one happened to read 0.0015”, which is right in the middle of the 0.001”-0.002” clearance range specified by Audi for new engines.

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Work your way from the back of the engine to the front, repeating these steps for each bearing. All my bearings measured at 0.0015” except the #2 main bearing which read 0.002”.

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Before I actually put the crank into the block, I need to install the oil galley plugs & the frost plug. I need to take the block off the stand to do this & it’s much easier to lift by myself when it’s just a bare block.

Here is a picture of the new plugs & the old plugs.

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I never gave these much thought until I picked up the block from the machine shop & saw that they had removed them (I should have known they would to clean & shot blast it).

I went to the dealership to get new ones only to find out that you can only get the smaller plugs (14mm)through them. They don’t sell the larger one (18mm) for some reason. The part number for the smaller plugs is N 011 907 10. I spent some time searching online & finally located an acceptable aftermarket replacement for the larger one. They are made by Federal Mogul as part of their Sealed Power line. The part number is 381-2153. You can get these through your local NAPA. I had to buy an entire bag of 6, so if anyone ever needs one, let me know.

To install them, set them in place in their respective hole. You want to make sure the hole is clean and smooth or the plugs may leak. Some people choose to use various sealants on these also, but I didn't feel it was necessary.

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Use a large hammer to carefully tap them in until flush with the block.

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Then use a socket that is just small enough to fit inside & carefully tap it in just a little more so it is just barely recessed into the block.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsflkpcbss.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsflkpcbss.jpeg.html)

Boom, all done.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsx3ixerti.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsx3ixerti.jpeg.html)

From here I remounted the block to the stand & got ready to put the crank in the block.

CAREFULLY set the crank in place on the bearings. The center counterweights on the crank should be facing up to make it easier. Be extremely careful not to nick any of the bearing journals on anything.

After the crank is in place, lift it slightly off the bearings & rotate 90 degrees to allow easier access to the journals.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsu49bdzjx.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsu49bdzjx.jpeg.html)

I wanted to double check my bearing clearances for piece of mind, so I decided to also check them with Plastigage. Cut a small piece of the 0.001”-0.003” Plastigage & lay it on the clean & dry crank.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps7ssyvmjk.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps7ssyvmjk.jpeg.html)

Tap the caps in place with the handle of a dead blow hammer. Torque to spec. Then remove the cap. Be careful not to rotate the crank at all while doing this, since there is no lube on the bearings & because it will smear the Plastigage.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsscupwdyb.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsscupwdyb.jpeg.html)

Check the smashed Plastigage against the wrapper. This was the #2 main bearing that read 0.002” clearance by dial bore gauge. It looks to be just under 0.002” by Plastigage. I’ll take it.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsyojwjzyl.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsyojwjzyl.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpservmbelo.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpservmbelo.jpeg.html)

Clean all the Plastigage off the journal & bearing surfaces & remove the crank.

aluthman

11-30-2015, 06:31 PM

Apply assembly lube of your choice to the bearings & smear them up.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsxj8ytzvh.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsxj8ytzvh.jpeg.html)

Don’t forget about your thrust bearings that go on either side of the #3 main bearing.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpskmzdrd9w.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpskmzdrd9w.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsajaoxsfn.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsajaoxsfn.jpeg.html)

Here is the perfect time to not do what I did & reinstall your piston oil squirters. I actually had the crank installed & the mains torqued before I realized this. You can’t install them with the crank in place. Well you can for all but cylinder #4. The crank sensor wheel keeps you from installing that one.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsxqy3q550.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsxqy3q550.jpeg.html)

There was also a little plastic thing I had to reinstall in the block where the oil filter adapter bolts on.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsmquhm06v.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsmquhm06v.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpskc51kcex.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpskc51kcex.jpeg.html)

Lube up the cap side bearings.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsfkkrz6tn.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsfkkrz6tn.jpeg.html)

Torque the caps just like before when we checked the bearing clearances. It finally looks like I’m accomplishing something.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsknmd4fvy.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsknmd4fvy.jpeg.html)

On to the connecting rods! Since I’m using stock pistons for this build, I’ve got the IE drop-in rods. These particular rods are rifle drilled. I would personally recommend spending the extra $100 for the rifle drilling, especially if you will be daily driving your car.

These came with the rod bolts already torqued, so first I had to get them apart. I just put them in the bench vise for this. Do not do this with steel knurled jaws on the vice. I made aluminum replacements for my vice a while back. These will not scratch or mar the rods. You don’t want to add a bunch of places for cracks to start propagating on your rods.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpspka4pap5.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpspka4pap5.jpeg.html)

Once the bolts are out, you still need to get the caps off. Flip them around & wiggle them a bit to pop the caps off the rods.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsd71p19hm.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsd71p19hm.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpszuptyzum.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpszuptyzum.jpeg.html)

Each cap is specific to each rod & they must maintain their original orientation to each other. Luckily, IE makes this easy as they number them for you. Keep each cap with the same numbered rod & the numbers should both be on the same side when assembled.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps3d9fro1a.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps3d9fro1a.jpeg.html)

Here they are all disassembled.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpstdkv72iq.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpstdkv72iq.jpeg.html)

Install the new rod bearings in the same fashion as the main bearings.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshuz1vv88.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshuz1vv88.jpeg.html)

Put them back in the vice & torque them to spec. IE specifies 50 ft-lbs for the 3/8” ARP 2000 rod bolts that are included with these rods. Don’t forget to lube them with ARP fastener lube. I torqued the bolts to 25 ft-lbs first and then 50 ft-lbs.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps0yzq4cjl.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps0yzq4cjl.jpeg.html)

Now setup the dial bore gauge like before, but use the rod journal size instead of main journal size. Check each rod/bearing for clearance & record.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsyhbxbcdn.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsyhbxbcdn.jpeg.html)

The specified values for clearance are the same as for the main bearings (0.001”-0.002” for new bearings). My bearings all measured at 0.00225”, but since this crank has been polished that was to be expected. That extra clearance isn’t a concern, especially since many people add extra clearance on purpose for performance builds. 0.006” is the max serviceable bearing clearance.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps3dzbrsio.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps3dzbrsio.jpeg.html)

With the crank in place in the block, it’s time to install the pistons on the rods. IE recommends that you install the tanged side of the bearing on the exhaust side of the engine, so just pay attention when putting everything together or you might be doing it again.

Start by installing the retaining clips on one side of the piston. I found that this is most easily accomplished by starting with one end in the opening & pressing down on the clip while pushing the other end into the groove with a large flat screwdriver tip.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsa1hgsfh4.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsa1hgsfh4.jpeg.html)

Then lube up the small end of the rod & the inside of the piston.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsbn2hjq5q.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsbn2hjq5q.jpeg.html)

Insert the wrist pin & spin slowly to help it get through the piston & rod.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpstbme2ao4.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpstbme2ao4.jpeg.html)

Install the other retaining clip just like before.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsx8s024cp.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsx8s024cp.jpeg.html)

Once you have the piston installed on the rod, drop a drill bit down into the wrist pin & use it as a pivot point for your screwdriver to spin the clips. You want the opening 180 degrees away from the pry slot.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshvl0lw0b.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshvl0lw0b.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsogthgnbl.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsogthgnbl.jpeg.html)

Repeat for the other 3 pistons & rods.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpszhpitjrc.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpszhpitjrc.jpeg.html)

Now it is time for one of the most tedious processes in the entire build. Filing the piston rings. Get all of your stuff together for doing the rings. Nothing fancy, just a basic ring filer, some feeler gauges, & a piston to set them square in the bore. I used a flat top BPY piston that I had since my milled pistons weren’t perfectly flat on top.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsat15hlmo.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsat15hlmo.jpeg.html)

There are three rings on each piston. The oil control ring, & the 2 compression rings. When installing them on the piston you want to start from the bottom & work your way up. Throughout this entire process, pay attention to the ring orientation. They are all labeled TOP on one side. Don’t mess this up or they won’t work as designed.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshbvii2sn.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshbvii2sn.jpeg.html)

Start with the oil control ring. Separate the small spring from the actual ring.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps65hpcd5b.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps65hpcd5b.jpeg.html)

Place it in the bore & use a piston to ensure it is sitting square.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpscoeqpypq.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpscoeqpypq.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsslucdhiz.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsslucdhiz.jpeg.html)

Take your feeler gauge & check the gap. Go larger until you can’t easily fit one in the gap. My oil control rings all measured at 0.015”, which is right in the middle of the spec of 0.01”-0.02”. None of these rings needed any filing.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps14a9u1f7.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps14a9u1f7.jpeg.html)

Continued on post 74 (I ran out of room at the beginning of the thread)

JDillon15

11-30-2015, 06:43 PM

Pretty excited for this. Good luck!!

vce1232000

11-30-2015, 07:04 PM

PM me if you need other things[up]. I usually have spare parts laying around if not using I can just ship you [;)]. Great success with the [wrench]. I will be [o_o]

aluthman

11-30-2015, 07:51 PM

PM me if you need other things[up]. I usually have spare parts laying around if not using I can just ship you [;)]. Great success with the [wrench]. I will be [o_o]

Will do, although I think the only things I need now are things that should be replaced with new like bearings/gaskets/seals. I am counting on you to work the kinks out of the JHM K04 tune though. I have high hopes.

vce1232000

11-30-2015, 07:54 PM

I am counting on you to work the kinks out of the JHM K04 tune though. I have high hopes.
I do to[;)]

Newman378

11-30-2015, 10:25 PM

Very interested in seeing how this goes, looks like you're off to a great start!

08 classic

12-01-2015, 05:36 AM

Keep it up (no pun intended). In for the show

1killera4

12-01-2015, 06:03 AM

I would recommend getting your micrometers calibrated by a reputable calibration house.

aluthman

12-01-2015, 06:13 AM

They're dead on based on the standards that came with them. I'm not that concerned since everything will be measured with the same mic. I have more faith in a quality set of used micrometers than in plastigauge.

thenofjboy

12-01-2015, 07:07 AM

Great thread and obviously subscribed! GL man

Gotta love when AZ members step up and help out the community! [az]

BenMTL

12-01-2015, 08:42 AM

Another saved B7 [:D]

This section thanks you [up]

billyhoyle

12-01-2015, 10:03 AM

Great thread, and good luck with the rebuild!

Khaotic

12-01-2015, 10:54 AM

Subscribed! [up]

texas02KL

12-01-2015, 11:38 AM

Just joined the forum after seeing your thread. I just bought a US spec a4 earlier this year, and getting ideas for it. Can't wait to see the rest of the build! This is my first car, and first european car so should be interesting.

Charles.waite

12-01-2015, 11:46 AM

Dude you're the man. You're always like 2 or 3 steps ahead of me and paving the way with tons of useful information. Since I'll llikely be doing this exact thing on my car (rebuilding used engine) this thread will be bookmarked for sure.

Except in my pie in the sky plan I'll be going with a CDL engine (stock forged internals FTW).

If I might suggest something to focus future updates on, of most importance to me is piston ring fitment and filing technique, what sort of cleaning/machining procedures are recommended when refurbing a used engine, and checking cam/crank/bearing tolerances. I like the idea of using a mic way better than plastiguage (as torquing and removing stuff to do that is fiddly and annoying. Also I believe my Haynes manual has all the proper tolerances for the cams and crank if you're interested I can post the values for you.

Jake@JHM

12-01-2015, 11:55 AM

Sub'd [up]

FraggyA4

12-01-2015, 12:07 PM

I wouldn't bother with the flexhone, I would take the block back where you got it hot tanked and have them hone it and deck the head. Our cylinder sleeves are pretty hard and I don't think the flexhones do as good as a job as an engine builder can do. I think when I did mine it cost me a mear $100 to get the block decked honed and hot tanked. I say it's worth it.

al3k

12-01-2015, 01:11 PM

this is interesting stuff :D (sub´d)

p0isin

12-01-2015, 01:19 PM

Good info, thanks for posting.

aluthman

12-01-2015, 02:24 PM

If I might suggest something to focus future updates on, of most importance to me is piston ring fitment and filing technique, what sort of cleaning/machining procedures are recommended when refurbing a used engine, and checking cam/crank/bearing tolerances. I like the idea of using a mic way better than plastiguage (as torquing and removing stuff to do that is fiddly and annoying. Also I believe my Haynes manual has all the proper tolerances for the cams and crank if you're interested I can post the values for you.

I plan to go pretty in depth with these parts and may even bust out the gopro to do some short videos on the parts that might be difficult to capture with pictures (like using the ball hone).

I wouldn't bother with the flexhone, I would take the block back where you got it hot tanked and have them hone it and deck the head. Our cylinder sleeves are pretty hard and I don't think the flexhones do as good as a job as an engine builder can do. I think when I did mine it cost me a mear $100 to get the block decked honed and hot tanked. I say it's worth it.

I'm not disagreeing with you that a machine shop could probably create a more ideal finish on the cylinders, but I'm trying to do as much as possible by myself to save money. I've already dropped an obscene amount of cash into this car and I don't see the point in spending $100 extra for something I can do myself. I've seen the results of using a ball hone on a 1.8T block (which is virtually identical to our blocks), and liked the result.

Axis

12-01-2015, 02:43 PM

Learned something new by reading one of your threads (again). Always thought the BPY was also offered in longitudinal form, seems I was wrong.

Break a leg!

FraggyA4

12-01-2015, 02:56 PM

I plan to go pretty in depth with these parts and may even bust out the gopro to do some short videos on the parts that might be difficult to capture with pictures (like using the ball hone).

I'm not disagreeing with you that a machine shop could probably create a more ideal finish on the cylinders, but I'm trying to do as much as possible by myself to save money. I've already dropped an obscene amount of cash into this car and I don't see the point in spending $100 extra for something I can do myself. I've seen the results of using a ball hone on a 1.8T block (which is virtually identical to our blocks), and liked the result.

Yeah, understandable it was just a decent price for me to get the package deal done all at once. Also if you need any of the specialty tools let me know I have just about all of them now.

Charles.waite

12-01-2015, 03:00 PM

TIL that the BPG had forged pistons!

(you're sure about that correct?)

aluthman

12-01-2015, 03:20 PM

TIL that the BPG had forged pistons!

(you're sure about that correct?)

I'm positive that the crowned pistons in the BPG are forged. I'm not sure if they put any dished pistons in the later BPGs, but I doubt it. I posted pictures in another thread where I was looking for a set.

turbo944s2

12-01-2015, 04:00 PM

So the head is not junk?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

vce1232000

12-01-2015, 04:13 PM

The pics ive [o_o] of the cylinder off that motor was toast[:(]. I believe he is just [wrench] the short block and going to use his built head

aluthman

12-01-2015, 04:30 PM

So the head is not junk?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

The head is trashed.

The pics ive [o_o] of the cylinder off that motor was toast[:(]. I believe he is just [wrench] the short block and going to use his built head

^This. I'll rebuild my current short block after putting this one in and then I'll sell it to reclaim some $$$.

Chappya4b5

12-01-2015, 05:31 PM

Bookmarked for this. I've had my b7 for a month now and put about 2000 on it and about ready to add a second quart. Would be interested to find if the actual common problem with them burning so much was the Rings and not valve seals or pcv or anything else for that matter.

aluthman

12-01-2015, 06:00 PM

For those not aware, the engine that is burning oil is not even remotely close to stock. The condition of the pistons or rings is in no way the fault of Audi. I have about 47k miles on the built motor and have my doubts as to whether the rings ever actually seated properly or not.

SamsonKnight

12-01-2015, 06:42 PM

I have a good worki by bwt oil pump if your interested. Following this thread.

aluthman

12-01-2015, 06:52 PM

I have a good worki by bwt oil pump if your interested. Following this thread.

As of right now, I'm planning on doing a 1.8T oil pump conversion. If you make me a deal I can't refuse, I could be persuaded to keep the 2.0 pump though.

Denio24

12-01-2015, 07:06 PM

As of right now, I'm planning on doing a 1.8T oil pump conversion. If you make me a deal I can't refuse, I could be persuaded to keep the 2.0 pump though.

Just delete the balance shafts. That way you can keep your stock oil configuration and not have to worry about other modifications. Maybe a member on here is selling the complete balance shaft unit w/ oil pump with the delete already done.

wildcat333

12-01-2015, 07:54 PM

Sweet.
GLWEB.

Charles.waite

12-01-2015, 09:06 PM

I'm positive that the crowned pistons in the BPG are forged. I'm not sure if they put any dished pistons in the later BPGs, but I doubt it. I posted pictures in another thread where I was looking for a set.

I knew they were crowned just didn't know they were forged. Very interesting.

Denio24

12-02-2015, 06:54 AM

Literally just thought of this, didn't know why I didn't think of it earlier.

Ditch the shi**y 06F design w/ the balance shafts altogether and source a 06A block and mate it to the BWT head & FSI system - whilst not changing the ecu and wiring harness to go to the 1.8t injection configuration. That way, you can run a realiable 1.8t lubrication configuration along with direct injection system. Or, you can just weld off the DI ports if you decide to do another FI setup. I'm currently trying to think of if there would be any other work involved, or if this may be at all possible, but I'm 99% sure it is - just do your stroker calculations. [:D][:D] I'm wondering whether I should do this myself as it is a VERY appealing solution. I actually compared the photos and it looks like there is an additional small hole on the passenger side of the bwt head near CYL #4. This is most likely for another dowel pin, but all the oil and coolant galleries look the same. Blocks are basically the same just like two bolt holes for some brackets probably on the sides of are not there.

This way you get the proven reliability of 1.8T shortblock with the precision of FSI. Ohh the possibilities are endless.

1.8T Head http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah2/dannydee/1.8t%20Cylinder%20Head_zpsmqe00cfy.jpg

2.0T Head http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah2/dannydee/2.0t%20Cylinder%20Head_zpseynxfhaz.jpg

Charles.waite

12-02-2015, 07:31 AM

1.8ts run so much rougher than the 2.0ts. It's pretty noticeable. Frankly the smoothness is something I really like and deleting the balance shafts kills that.

Are you suggesting just using the 06a block and swapping Over the internals from the 2.0t, effectively making a striker 1.8t block with a 2.0t head bolted on? I'm not sure that'll work. I'll be honest, those coolant galleys look totally different to me...

Denio24

12-02-2015, 07:37 AM

I took a look at the 06F and the 06A block and it's basically the same. Sure, the cyl head might be different between the two but it's the block that matters. And yes! I believe 06X family blocks are swappable. Performance over ride quality seems to be key here as far as balance shafts go. Anyway, having the rotating assembly balanced will do more good. Poor reliability should be no excuse for minival NVH decrease, engineers were posed with a dilemma and came out with a poorly designed engine.

2.0T FSI BPY (06F)
http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah2/dannydee/bpy%202.0_zpschjqqdcu.jpg

1.8T MPFI AWM (06A)
http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah2/dannydee/7f8b67a3-3e4e-4642-8462-fb11e1c36b26_zpslxdivyo7.jpg

Looks like the only difference is the slightly larger coolant gallery on the 06A. not much of a difference.

My reasoning here: It would be easier to buy a shortblock for ~$200 instead of having extra machine work for the 1.8t conversion kit, in addition to the price of the conversion kit, and added headache of irregular oil pressure. With the 06A shortblock just bore it to the pistons of your choice.

aluthman

12-02-2015, 08:56 AM

All that is possible and has been done. I actually considered it, but then i would need to buy another block and get it bored to 82.5mm. The fsi head bolts to the 1.8 block and the internals all swap over with just a bore of the cylinders. This also allows use of the 1.8 pump with no adapters needed. It's a great solution for those starting from scratch with a build, but I want to use the parts I already have.

Denio24

12-02-2015, 09:05 AM

Charles.waite

12-02-2015, 09:22 AM

Jake@JHM

12-02-2015, 09:27 AM

I vaguely remember that if you put a 1.8t head on a 2.0t block, you have to find a timing belt that would fit as the 2.0t and the 1.8t belts are not the same. Might be something to consider if you are putting a 2.0t head on a 1.8t block.

Denio24

12-02-2015, 09:43 AM

aluthman

12-02-2015, 03:04 PM

I took a look at the 06F and the 06A block and it's basically the same. Sure, the cyl head might be different between the two but it's the block that matters. And yes! I believe 06X family blocks are swappable. Performance over ride quality seems to be key here as far as balance shafts go. Anyway, having the rotating assembly balanced will do more good. Poor reliability should be no excuse for minival NVH decrease, engineers were posed with a dilemma and came out with a poorly designed engine.

I vaguely remember that if you put a 1.8t head on a 2.0t block, you have to find a timing belt that would fit as the 2.0t and the 1.8t belts are not the same. Might be something to consider if you are putting a 2.0t head on a 1.8t block.

Exhibit A: http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Screen%20Shot%202015-12-02%20at%205.57.44%20PM_zps4mczmlfs.png (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/Screen%20Shot%202015-12-02%20at%205.57.44%20PM_zps4mczmlfs.png.html)

It's possible. The majority of the timing belt components are on the head anyway. You just need to use the 2.0 crank and timing gear.

Charles.waite

12-02-2015, 03:49 PM

The only thing that couldn't easily be ported over to the 1.8t block is the timing tensioner. I think the 1.8t is missing a recess or something. And the mounting location for the idler is a bit different because of the old style hydro tensioner design. Last year they updated the tensioner design to be like the 2.0t but it's modified to work with the 1.8t mounting locations.

aluthman

12-02-2015, 04:27 PM

The tensioner is on the head for the 2.0

Denio24

12-02-2015, 04:51 PM

Have to look into this. Isn't the 1.8t tensioner on the head as well? Wouldn't it be easier just to swap to the 1.8t timing configuration?

Charles.waite

12-02-2015, 05:08 PM

The tensioner is on the head for the 2.0

Oh shit. Hah. Carry on then. (Pretty sure it's the same for the 1.8t. I'm just a dummy)

aluthman

12-02-2015, 05:46 PM

Wouldn't it be easier just to swap to the 1.8t timing configuration?

Why? There is nothing wrong with the 2.0 setup. The FSI head bolts right to the 1.8 block and nothing needs changed timing belt wise. You just need to bore the block to use 82.5mm pistons. It's just another way to run the 1.8 oil pump in an FSI car.

Denio24

12-02-2015, 06:12 PM

Why? There is nothing wrong with the 2.0 setup. The FSI head bolts right to the 1.8 block and nothing needs changed timing belt wise. You just need to bore the block to use 82.5mm pistons. It's just another way to run the 1.8 oil pump in an FSI car.

Oh yes you are correct. my mistake. Looks like all the different timing components are situated in the 2.0 head.

aluthman

12-22-2015, 07:02 PM

First post updated with progress.

vce1232000

12-22-2015, 08:22 PM

First post updated with progress.
[o_o]in [up]...........

Charles.waite

12-22-2015, 08:33 PM

Really great update. Particularly the part about drying the block and coating it with a lubricant to displace the water.
I noticed while rebuilding my old calipers that after cleaning them with simple green and rinsing them off, I got a ton of surface rust because I didn't treat the exposed cast iron surface.

Those are the sorts of details that the majority of stuff online glosses over and the knowledge doesn't really transfer. awesome that you're putting this together.

Also I have a saved search for bpy, bpg, and bwt engines on eBay. Sadface.png

Denio24

12-22-2015, 08:37 PM

Time for wire brush to remove any loose paint and slap on your favorite color!

audihere06

12-23-2015, 06:57 PM

This is very similar to the build i just did. I have a almost complete 06A oil pump and oil filter housing kit that i need to get rid of. The only thing im missing is the crankshaft gear as far as i know.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

aluthman

12-23-2015, 07:23 PM

I accumulated most of the parts to do the 1.8T oil pump swap and then bought a 2.0 balance shaft/oil pump assembly to put in it. Oh well. There is always the next engine lol.

aluthman

12-24-2015, 10:53 AM

Updated with block painting and lower dipstick tube reinstall.

vce1232000

12-24-2015, 11:07 AM

Updated with block painting and lower dipstick tube reinstall.
I was expecting to [o_o] a brighter cheerful color[;)]

aluthman

12-24-2015, 11:20 AM

Once you go black... hehehe

I thought about a different color, but it wouldn't really fit with my car.

ryanhmusic

12-24-2015, 01:17 PM

Once you go black... hehehe

I thought about a different color, but it wouldn't really fit with my car.

Isn't black going make it harder (God forbid) to find leaks in the future?

vce1232000

12-24-2015, 01:22 PM

Isn't black going make it harder (God forbid) to find leaks in the future?
A good re-[wrench]er doesnt and wont worry about that [:p]. [confused] you ask. Because leaks wont happen in the future[facepalm]...........lol

aluthman

12-25-2015, 07:58 PM

I'm not too concerned with being able to find leaks. After replacing all the gaskets/seals, there shouldn't be any leaks for a good long while.

aluthman

12-27-2015, 07:13 PM

Update for main bearing installation and clearance measurement.

Older_not_Wiser

12-28-2015, 10:35 AM

Update for main bearing installation and clearance measurement.

No Loctite or similar on ARP main bearing studs when going in to block? Or will that be done at final assembly?

aluthman

12-28-2015, 11:13 AM

No Loctite or similar on ARP main bearing studs when going in to block? Or will that be done at final assembly?

Not required, but you can use red loctite. If you choose to use loctite, you must do the final torque sequence on the studs before it cures. I don't plan on using it.

triton6346

12-29-2015, 08:33 AM

This is a great thread aluthman! Can't wait to see what you've got in store for us on the top end of the motor. I'm facing the same set of decision points with my old (but trusty) B7. Started sourcing parts for a 2.7 build last summer, but I'm really second guessing that plan.

vce1232000

12-29-2015, 09:35 AM

This is a great thread aluthman! Can't wait to see what you've got in store for us on the top end of the motor.
I think he is planing just to [wrench] out his built[race] cylinder head from his old built short block over to his new re-[wrench] short block

aluthman

12-29-2015, 10:25 AM

I think he is planing just to [wrench] out his built[race] cylinder head from his old built short block over to his new re-[wrench] short block

This. My head is already built. I have already outlined how to disassemble and reassemble the head in a different thread if you want to read that though.

aluthman

12-30-2015, 10:16 PM

Updated with progress.

Charles.waite

12-30-2015, 11:12 PM

Loving this. I think the best part is how you're really demystifying the process and making me more confident that I can do this eventually. I know it's "just nuts and bolts" but pictures and thorough walkthroughs like this are worth so much more than just a few general posts. As always, major props.

triton6346

12-31-2015, 05:41 AM

aluthman

12-31-2015, 05:44 AM

Great update! It's the order of operations that is so helpful here. The individual tasks are seemingly straightforward, but doing them in the right order can be difficult to sort out at times.

Just curious....on that "plastic part" that goes in the block at the oil filter adapter location...did you re-use the existing part, or did you get a new one?

I reused it. I just made sure to clean it up really good.

Also, I'm glad people are finding this useful. It's almost as much work posting up the process as it is actually doing the work. Probably going to do the rings today or tomorrow.

aluthman

12-31-2015, 04:33 PM

Next, do the same thing for the 2nd compression ring. I measured this ring at 0.013”.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpssf8kj91j.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpssf8kj91j.jpeg.html)

The Audi spec for new rings is 0.008”-0.016”, & since I plan on boosting the piss out of this engine, I am shooting for the top of that band. I did a lot of research on the difference between the first & second compression ring gaps, & came to the conclusion that it wasn’t necessary to set the second gap any larger per say, but you don’t really want it smaller than the first compression ring. I decided to set both to 0.016”

Place the ring on the ring filer & ensure it is sitting square against the grinding wheel & that it is against the stop. Turn the crank counter clockwise to file the ring. You always want to file towards the center (away from the cylinder wall) or your rings could potentially score your cylinders. Be careful, go slow, & check often. Diamond grinding wheels can remove material pretty quickly. I chose to only file one edge to obtain the gap I wanted.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshtwlbm74.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshtwlbm74.jpeg.html)

Keep at it until the 0.016” feeler just slips in.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsf8bsqevc.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsf8bsqevc.jpeg.html)

Once it is filed to the correct gap, take some fine grit sandpaper & knock off any burrs from the ring edges.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps67lf7tox.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps67lf7tox.jpeg.html)

Repeat the process for the top compression ring. Make sure you don’t mix up the 1st & 2nd compression rings.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshfufby57.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshfufby57.jpeg.html)

When installing the oil control ring, find the edge of the spring & pull it apart a bit to expand it & then slip it into the bottom ring land on the piston.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsmpw6wia5.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsmpw6wia5.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsbwhobc6j.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsbwhobc6j.jpeg.html)

A note about reusing pistons: You want to make sure your ring lands are nice and clean before installing your new rings. Some places will tell you to use an old ring to dig the gunk out of the ring lands, but I would advise against this as you can scratch the shit out of the ring land. I used a soda blaster to blast mine clean and they came out great. If you don't have access to a soda blaster, use solvent and a stiff bristle nylon brush or something similar that won't scratch the piston.

Use a pair of piston ring pliers to expand the ring & place it in the ring land over the top of the spring. Don’t try to do this by hand because you can scratch the piston & break or deform the ring. You want the opening of the spring to be on the opposite side of the piston from the ring gap.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpselwwxeyk.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpselwwxeyk.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsdzpc7ycl.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsdzpc7ycl.jpeg.html)

Repeat with the 2 compression rings. Make sure you are installing the rings with the word top facing up.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpswpqwk9g8.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpswpqwk9g8.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpselwwxeyk.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpselwwxeyk.jpeg.html)

Arrange the rings so that the gaps are 120 degrees apart from each other.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsaazqmhv3.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsaazqmhv3.jpeg.html)

Finish the other pistons & remove the bolts & gaps to get ready to install them.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps2oy7qkjr.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps2oy7qkjr.jpeg.html)

At the recommendation of my machine shop, I chose to lube the cylinders & piston skirts with Marvel Mystery Oil. WD-40 is also acceptable, but only if the engine will be started soon after assembly. WD-40 will evaporate, but the MMO stays on the cylinders if the engine won’t be started for a while. Smear some MMO on the inside of your ring compressor also.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsoduioueu.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsoduioueu.jpeg.html)

After the cylinder & piston are lubed up, install the ring compressor on the piston. Leave a little bit of the skirt sticking out of the bottom to help with installation.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpswqfb0xkb.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpswqfb0xkb.jpeg.html)

Apply assembly lube to the rod bearing only. Assembly lube on the rings or cylinders is a good way to get the rings to never seat correctly. Rotate the crank as needed to get the cylinder you are working with at BDC.

Center the piston over the bore & slowly lower the rod into the cylinder. Insert the protruding piston skirt into the bore & let the ring compressor sit on the deck of the block. Now take the handle of a hammer to carefully tap the piston down into the bore. If you feel anything catch, stop & try again. You don’t want to break your rings & have to buy new ones & file them again.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsgqx9sghh.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsgqx9sghh.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsv7vrvce2.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsv7vrvce2.jpeg.html)

Flip the block & push the piston down into the bore & carefully guide the rod end onto the rod journal.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps8mjeqlkb.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps8mjeqlkb.jpeg.html)

Install the cap & just snug up the rod bolts for now.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpstwtic5jr.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpstwtic5jr.jpeg.html)

Rinse & repeat 3 more times.

Once all the pistons & rods are installed. Rotate the crank by hand to ensure it rotates smoothly. Now it’s time to torque the rod bolts. You want to do three torque cycles on the rod bolts to ensure that the clamping forces are uniform across all the bolts. Since I already torqued them once when checking clearances, I only did it twice here.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps3zgwsomd.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps3zgwsomd.jpeg.html)

Now step back & admire your assembled short block.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsn7cddbyi.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsn7cddbyi.jpeg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpscbtrp4nz.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpscbtrp4nz.jpeg.html)

In order to install the rear main seal, I had to get the engine off the stand. With most of the guts in place, lifting it off & setting it down myself is no longer an option, so time to try out my Christmas present from the wife.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps6gqdol1x.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps6gqdol1x.jpeg.html)

The new rear main seal comes with this nifty little plastic spacer installed. Slip it on to the crank like so. This keeps it centered so you can push it on easily. Using your finger, smear a little clean oil onto the crank where you will be sliding the seal on.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsoq1zmj6r.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsoq1zmj6r.jpeg.html)

Line the bolt holes up & carefully push the seal onto the crank & discard the plastic spacer.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpswnxzqpbu.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpswnxzqpbu.jpeg.html)

The torque spec for these bolts is 10 Nm or ~88.5 in-lbs. Tighten them in a star pattern.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsrmnbhlsj.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsrmnbhlsj.jpeg.html)

While the engine is off the stand, I may as well install the pilot bearing into the crank. I didn’t have to remove an old one since this engine was out of a transverse automatic. If you have to take one out, there are tools & methods all over the place to help you do this.

Line it up with the hole & make sure it’s centered.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpslmysh6zn.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpslmysh6zn.jpeg.html)

Tap it in place until flush with the end of the crank with a dead blow mallet.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsnfr0r9n4.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsnfr0r9n4.jpeg.html)

Time to install the oil pump. I was originally going to do the 1.8t oil pump conversion but decided against it for now. Maybe the next build… I was also considering deleting the balance shaft, but decided against that also. So I’m simply reinstalling a stock setup.

Start by setting cyl. #1 to TDC.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfrjf9b77.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfrjf9b77.jpeg.html)

Next place the steel windage tray plate thing on the block. Note the two locating bushings. These are not attached to either the block or the pump, so hopefully you didn’t lose them when you took it apart. I tapped them in place after lining up the holes on the plate.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsm2o70rfz.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsm2o70rfz.jpeg.html)

aluthman

12-31-2015, 04:35 PM

Next comes the actual pump/balance shaft assembly. I cleaned mine up a bit since it was pretty dirty when I got it. Since I washed all the oil off, I put some assembly lube on the gears.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsv0twqita.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsv0twqita.jpeg.html)

Set it down on the locating bushings & tap it down until it is seated. You want to use new bolts for this guy as they are stretch bolts & should not be reused, especially if you are retaining the balance shafts like I am. I have numbered the bolts to coincide with the ETKA part diagram that Charles.waite provided me in a different thread. (The silver bolt labeled as #16 is actually #17. The black #16 bolt is correct.)

Part numbers
#6 – WHT 000 360 A
#14 – N 911 495 01
#15 – WHT 000 006
#16 – N911 496 01
#17 – N104 305 02

Torque all of these bolts to 15 Nm or about 11 ft-lbs plus an additional 1/4 turn.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshfboftse.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshfboftse.jpg.html)

Now bolt your oil pump drive chain tensioner in place & torque those bolts to 15Nm/11 ft-lbs (no additional 1/4 turn for these).

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsdi1mjzmo.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsdi1mjzmo.jpeg.html)

In order to time the balance shafts to the crankshaft, you need to line up the dot on the balance shaft sprocket with the hole, all while cyl. #1 is set to TDC (we did this earlier, but double check).

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsauxrhzt5.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsauxrhzt5.jpeg.html)

Now place the chain on the balance shaft sprocket & the crank sprocket & ensure there is no slack in this length of chain. I inserted a 4mm hex driver into the hole to keep the sprocket from moving. Install the oil pump sprocket & torque the bolt to 20 Nm plus 1/4 turn. I used a new bolt (Part N 903 659 01) to be safe.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsqbkuhoy8.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsqbkuhoy8.jpeg.html)

Pull the tensioner retaining pin & it should take up all slack in the chain.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsg015d7hp.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsg015d7hp.jpeg.html)

Now you can reinstall the chain cover. It just pushed on & locks into place.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps2eoaj3zp.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps2eoaj3zp.jpeg.html)

Clean the front of the block & the aluminum front cover really well with some laquer thinner or acetone to remove any oil. Squirt a thin bead of sealant on the cover, since there is no gasket. Don’t go overboard or it will all just squish out & make a mess. Audi sells an overpriced sealant for this, but I used Elring Dirko sealant instead, which is ~$18 a tube and each tube could probably seal up 10 engines or more. This stuff also works great for the cam tray in the head and is pretty easy to clean off if you have to unlike the Audi satan sealant which is rock hard after curing.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsudt7bly0.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsudt7bly0.jpeg.html)

Locate it over the positioning pins & press it into place against the block. Install bolts & torque to 10Nm/7ft lbs.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpshugbovcl.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpshugbovcl.jpeg.html)

Carefully place the crank seal on the crank snout & push as far on as you can by hand.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsd5hnhjbm.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsd5hnhjbm.jpeg.html)

Place a large socket over the seal & tap the seal into the cover & onto the crank until it is just past flush with the cover. I used a 36mm socket & it fit perfectly. Most of you should have one of these since it is the same size the oil filter housing uses.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpseqhdicif.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpseqhdicif.jpeg.html)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsuz37mb3j.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsuz37mb3j.jpeg.html)

Put your timing gear in place on the crank. Now would be the time to dowel pin the crank if you are going to do so. I opted to use the IE billet timing gear instead, so I had to use the dead blow again.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsxah4twki.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsxah4twki.jpeg.html)

Put the crank bolt in & torque to 90 Nm/66 ft lbs. In order to keep the crankshaft from rotating, I pulled the plastic windage tray from behind the oil pump and wedged a ¼" socket extension between the crank counter weight and the block.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpssjkwshik.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpssjkwshik.jpeg.html)

You now have to go an additional 90 degrees to get the proper stretch on the bolt (use a new bolt obviously). I marked mine with a Sharpie so I had a visual reference.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsnclkvf7j.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsnclkvf7j.jpeg.html)

Now, using a breaker bar & a pipe, proceed to break your tools.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsthlkvrwo.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsthlkvrwo.jpeg.html)

In an effort to make my trip to Sears worthwhile, I decided to break one more & got a little closer.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpss2qwf3up.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpss2qwf3up.jpeg.html)

Since I’m out of tools to try going any farther, I decided that was good enough. Multiple people have only been able to get an additional 45 degrees & I got close to 60, so I think it’ll be fine. Keep in mind that the toque spec for this bolt will be different if you choose to use the $50 ARP crank bolt instead. I didn’t really feel it was necessary to spend $50 on a bolt again (I have it in my current engine).

After the new pickup finally arrived, I got that bolted in place with a new o-ring & bolt. 15 Nm/11 ft lbs for that guy. You can see hear the backup suction for the pickup. This is a relatively new part revision (not sure how new) that can save your engine in the event the main pickup gets clogged or frozen.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpslkfbxzab.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpslkfbxzab.jpeg.html)

Now it’s time to button up the bottom end. Squirt a bead of sealant on the oil pain seam. Make sure both the block & pan surfaces are clean before doing this.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps12cu7fep.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps12cu7fep.jpeg.html)

Install the oil pan bolts & torque to 15 Nm/11 ft lbs. You can see in this picture that I've installed my new crank sensor and knock sensors. The knock sensors get torqued to 20 Nm/15 ft-lbs. Knock sensors can wear out over the life of a car, so I figured I would just get new ones since they were only about $30 each. I just tightened the crank sensor nice and tight.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps9ap1g2x7.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps9ap1g2x7.jpeg.html)

All done. Just ready for the head. I won’t be installing that until my current engine is out of the car. I don’t really plan on documenting the engine removal/install because my engine bay barely resembles that of a stock B7 anymore. I’m not sure it would be worth the time investment in writing it up.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsu7ufm9mw.jpeg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsu7ufm9mw.jpeg.html)

See my thread about replacing valve seals/guides for more information regarding head assembly.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/660270-I-think-I-finally-found-the-smoking-gun-for-my-oil-consumption!?highlight=smoking+gun

aluthman

01-01-2016, 07:01 PM

I've gone as far as I can go for now until my oil pump shows up in the mail. I’ll be using a 2.0 FSI oil pump/balance shaft assembly & will be deleting the balance shafts. Stay tuned.

marlboro

01-02-2016, 10:41 AM

May be I missed it or may be it's not necessary for your application and max RPM, but are you planning to balance the engine with all those new internals?

Great thread by the way! [:)]

aluthman

01-02-2016, 10:46 AM

May be I missed it or may be it's not necessary for your application and max RPM, but are you planning to balance the engine with all those new internals?

Great thread by the way! [:)]

I only planned on doing it if there was a noticeable difference in piston/rod weight. Since they were each within 1 gram assembled, I'll leave everything else to my Fluidampr to handle. I also don't plan on revving past 7200 rpm.

aluthman

01-04-2016, 08:04 PM

Updated. Not gonna do balance shaft delete on this engine after all.

Denio24

01-04-2016, 11:21 PM

Updated. Not gonna do balance shaft delete on this engine after all.

So what finally made you want to take that route?

aluthman

01-05-2016, 03:23 AM

I decided to keep them because I intend to drive this thing everyday, and the increased vibrations would probably get old. I have stiffer drivetrain mounts also, so that isn't helping. I have also never really seen an enthusiast owned (aka well maintained) motor have a balance shaft issue. I have them in my current motor and have consistently revved to 7200 rpm with no issues. That particular set of balance shafts has 152k miles on it at this point.

I will also be using the updated oil pickup that has an alternate suction tube on the side. In the event the strainer becomes clogged, this tube opens to prevent a loss of oil pressure and can save the motor. I think this may be an underlying root cause of a lot of balance shaft failures. Low oil pressure going to steel shafts spinning inside an aluminum casting is a good recipe for seizure.

Charles.waite

01-05-2016, 07:50 AM

I think that's a good thought on what causes these failures. The 2.0t uses basically the same oil pan and pickup and pump mechanism as the 1.8t and you see very few failures because I think it's a bit more tolerant of low pressure. With the b7 it seems by the time you have low enough pressure to trigger the idiot light, you're already fucked and the balance shafts are a minute away from seizing anyway. And when they seize it causes a shitload of cascading damage.

Axis

01-05-2016, 08:33 AM

aluthman

01-05-2016, 09:08 AM

Updated part: 06F115251B

Explained in this thread:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/2-0-tfsi-pick-up-pipe-clarification.227639/

oVeRdOsE

01-05-2016, 09:39 AM

Updated part: 06F115251B

Explained in this thread:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/2-0-tfsi-pick-up-pipe-clarification.227639/

This is one reason why the previous owner of my b7 did a oil flush with oil engine cleaner at every 5000 miles.
Plus the magnetic oil plug. .
And of curse a good quality syntec oil. I use the liqui moly leichtlauf oil blend (well semi syn)

Let say I want to put the upgraded oil pickup line, how much time it takes in the average?
Is there any chance that a 2008 b7 got the upgraded pipe?

Charles.waite

01-05-2016, 09:50 AM

Whoa I never knew about that. Looks like whenever I rebuild my engine that new pickup is going in for sure.

Charles.waite

01-05-2016, 09:52 AM

This is one reason why the previous owner of my b7 did a oil flush with oil engine cleaner at every 5000 miles.
Plus the magnetic oil plug. .
And of curse a good quality syntec oil. I use the liqui moly leichtlauf oil blend (well semi syn)

Let say I want to put the upgraded oil pickup line, how much time it takes in the average?
Is there any chance that a 2008 b7 got the upgraded pipe?

Highly doubtful the 2008s have that pickup.

Also in most cases the pickup is clogged by rtv or plastic parts, not always sludge so oil treatments (like AutoRX) or something shouldn't always do much to solve the problem.

oVeRdOsE

01-05-2016, 10:02 AM

Highly doubtful the 2008s have that pickup.

Also in most cases the pickup is clogged by rtv or plastic parts, not always sludge so oil treatments (like AutoRX) or something shouldn't always do much to solve the problem.

yes, probably. good point.

I need to take a look soon.

aluthman

01-05-2016, 10:40 AM

Highly doubtful the 2008s have that pickup.

Also in most cases the pickup is clogged by rtv or plastic parts, not always sludge so oil treatments (like AutoRX) or something shouldn't always do much to solve the problem.

Also by water in the oil freezing in cold climates.

vce1232000

01-05-2016, 10:54 AM

Also by water in the oil freezing in cold climates.
[eek]..............

oVeRdOsE

01-05-2016, 11:05 AM

[eek]..............

indeed. -21°C (real) this morning here.

aluthman

01-05-2016, 11:09 AM

[eek]..............

A wise man told me that [;)]

p0isin

01-05-2016, 01:45 PM

Tons of good info in this thread. Glad to see things coming back together. [up]

KJack

01-05-2016, 02:22 PM

That updated oil pickup tube is awesome. I'll add it to my list of things to buy. Anything that can help prevent catastrophic engine failure is a good thing.

aluthman

01-05-2016, 07:33 PM

Updates in post #75 to show you how to break tools.

p0isin

01-06-2016, 09:12 AM

That crank bolt is a bitch to torque properly. To get the timing gear on easily I put it in the oven at 300 degrees for 20 minutes and it slid on easily.

Charles.waite

01-06-2016, 10:05 AM

Stop breaking your tools rookie!

Axis

01-06-2016, 10:18 AM

Now, using a breaker bar & a pipe, proceed to break your tools.

Made me chuckle at my desk

Charles.waite

01-08-2016, 10:16 PM

aluthman

01-09-2016, 11:42 AM

Saw a few large plumes of smoke emanate from my tailpipe today driving home. Thanked the lord baby Jesus that this thread exists and at some point I can print it out, bind it, and make a guide book out of it for my eventual engine rebuild.

I have it all saved in a word file if you want it. It might be easier to print that way.

Edit: Also updated to show the final steps of assembly.

Muggerrudd

01-19-2016, 01:11 PM

update?

aluthman

01-19-2016, 01:46 PM

update?

It's done. All the latest updates are in the string of posts that start at #74. I haven't yet put it in the car though, if that's what you're asking. I need a good chunk of time off work and without having to watch kids to pull that off. Maybe V-day weekend...

Denio24

01-19-2016, 01:53 PM

It's done. All the latest updates are in the string of posts that start at #74. I haven't yet put it in the car though, if that's what you're asking. I need a good chunk of time off work and without having to watch kids to pull that off. Maybe V-day weekend...

Quick question, how are you planning to break in the motor? Any specific method?

aluthman

01-19-2016, 02:08 PM

Quick question, how are you planning to break in the motor? Any specific method?

Initial oil fill will be a non-detergent, non-synthetic SAE 30 oil. Brand depends on what I find. On initial start, I will only let it run for a few seconds just to make sure everything is hunky dory. Then once I finish putting everything back together, I'll go out and drive the car trying to avoid constant rpms. I'll try to keep a relatively high load on the engine when possible while avoiding the upper rpm range. You also want to do a lot of engine braking on decel. I'll put 50-100 miles on the car driving like this and then change the oil and filter. I'll go with a conventional 5w-30 for this one simply because it's cheap. Drive the car normally for the next 300-400 miles, then change the oil and filter again. At this point, go with whatever synthetic you want to run, I'll be running Rotella T6 5w-40 and going to 5k change intervals.

I'll also be breaking in my new JHM stage 3 clutch at the same time, so I won't be able to beat on it for a couple weeks.

Denio24

01-19-2016, 02:12 PM

Initial oil fill will be a non-detergent, non-synthetic SAE 30 oil. Brand depends on what I find. On initial start, I will only let it run for a few seconds just to make sure everything is hunky dory. Then once I finish putting everything back together, I'll go out and drive the car trying to avoid constant rpms. I'll try to keep a relatively high load on the engine when possible while avoiding the upper rpm range. You also want to do a lot of engine braking on decel. I'll put 50-100 miles on the car driving like this and then change the oil and filter. I'll go with a conventional 5w-30 for this one simply because it's cheap. Drive the car normally for the next 300-400 miles, then change the oil and filter again. At this point, go with whatever synthetic you want to run, I'll be running Rotella T6 5w-40 and going to 5k change intervals.

I'll also be breaking in my new JHM stage 3 clutch at the same time, so I won't be able to beat on it for a couple weeks.

Thanks for this advice, ill be building my engine this year as well so this will come in handy.

Charles.waite

01-19-2016, 05:12 PM

It's done. All the latest updates are in the string of posts that start at #74. I haven't yet put it in the car though, if that's what you're asking. I need a good chunk of time off work and without having to watch kids to pull that off. Maybe V-day weekend...

Might not be a bad idea to put a quick legend in the first post or have links connecting the shards of the diy. You know, to help nooblets like myself navigate the thread.

aluthman

01-19-2016, 06:38 PM

Might not be a bad idea to put a quick legend in the first post or have links connecting the shards of the diy. You know, to help nooblets like myself navigate the thread.

There are only 2 chunks to the DIY. At the end of the first chunk, it tells you to go to post 74.

Charles.waite

01-19-2016, 07:37 PM

There are only 2 chunks to the DIY. At the end of the first chunk, it tells you to go to post 74.

NO!!!!

aluthman

01-19-2016, 08:10 PM

NO!!!!

Yes?

Side note: Holy shit at your post count man! I thought I wasted too much time on this forum.

Charles.waite

01-19-2016, 08:15 PM

Yes?

Side note: Holy shit at your post count man! I thought I wasted too much time on this forum.

I have no life.... [:(]

90% of it is in WinterMode...

aluthman

01-19-2016, 08:19 PM

I have no life.... [:(]

90% of it is in WinterMode...

I don't make it to the B6 section very often. Normally just to check out the build threads after I feel like I've read everything in the B7 section. On that note, I wonder if Doctor has any updates since I last looked...

aluthman

01-19-2016, 08:40 PM

Sad day. Doc shelved the 2JZ and is going back to the 1.8T.

Tsinsta93

01-26-2016, 08:18 AM

Awesome thread Aluthman, your knowledge is always fun to read! Couldn't help but notice that the tools you broke were Harbor Freight brand haha. I also snapped a drive adapter from there last night pulling my wheels off to do the brakes. Lifetime warranty my ass!!! Luckily had my dad's Ram on backup to go get some real impact grade stuff

aluthman

01-26-2016, 01:32 PM

Van Black

01-26-2016, 11:47 PM

Tsinsta93

01-27-2016, 06:27 AM

The tools I broke were Craftsman. I haven't broken a HF tool yet. To be fair, they wouldn't have broken if I wasn't using a 3 ft. cheater pipe.

Sure enough, I saw Pittsburch on the socket but that extension was Craftsman. The 3ft cheater definitely increases the abuse. Still hoping to put it in this month and see if it solves the oil problem to your liking?

aluthman

01-27-2016, 09:11 AM

Do you have any upgrades on the valves or rockers? I've read somewhere that RPMs over 7k cause the rocker arms to break...

My head already has Ferrea springs, valves, and retainers. The rockers and lifters are stock. IIRC, the stock spring retainers were the weak link at high rpm.

Sure enough, I saw Pittsburch on the socket but that extension was Craftsman. The 3ft cheater definitely increases the abuse. Still hoping to put it in this month and see if it solves the oil problem to your liking?

I think I'm going to install it on V-day weekend.

Van Black

02-05-2016, 06:53 AM

So it's the retainer that snaps?
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/501360-The-2-0T-FSI-Engine-Build-Thread
That's where I've read about rockers failing. It's something I keep in mind because I've got a very
high rev style of driving sometimes.

aluthman

02-05-2016, 09:33 AM

I've never actually talked to anyone that has had a valvetrain failure due to stock lifters/rocks/retainers. It's all been the "I know a guy whos brother's girlfriends cousin had it happen" type stories , so take it with a grain of salt.

Charles.waite

02-05-2016, 10:40 AM

Yea. And unless you're revving the ever living nuts off the valve train I don't ever expect any failure there aside from valves burning up due to carbon buildup.

Van Black

02-09-2016, 01:21 PM

dearly noted. I'm having my engine done next month (I hope) and the head will be sent out for a thorough clean. Considering new springs and retainers.
I wanna give her some some life and a top notch engine is on top of my list

Lex Campbell

02-06-2017, 08:56 AM

Any update here? This thread was F*cking awesome. Read it about 3 times and rebuilt my TTS motor over this last weekend. Would not have been possible to do it so fast if it werent for this. Cant wait to see more.

aluthman

02-06-2017, 09:06 AM

Glad you got some use out of the thread! That's why I took the time to write it.

Engine still running great but my oil pressure is lower than I would like at hot idle. It's fine everywhere else. My head has over 160k on it at this point and I know there is some scoring of the cam bearings. That's the most likely cause. It could also be an oil pump issue because the oil pump was a used unit that I bought off the classifieds. It checked out fine before installation though. My solution is to install a new head and new oil pump this spring. Until then, I had my tuner adjust my file to raise idle rpm to 900 to help make sure pressure stays at a comfortable level.

dalmation53

02-07-2017, 06:46 AM

gonemtbiking

02-07-2017, 08:04 AM

Went from idle in vcds from 128 to 133?

Sent from my C5306 using Tapatalk

VCDS adjustments will only bring idle up to 830ish max, to get higher like the 900 Adam is after requires ECU changes in the tune parameters.

aluthman

02-07-2017, 08:28 AM

I was able to get to 840 with vcds. I had to talk to my tuner to get 900rpm.

canadianA4B7

02-07-2017, 08:47 AM

Same with vcds it wud only get to 840, mines set to 880/920 right now for hot idle via tuning.

Lonslow93

02-07-2017, 11:17 AM

Sub'd nice work and following

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

aluthman

02-07-2017, 11:22 AM

Not a lot to follow on this thread anymore. It pretty much has everything it's gonna have.

b7_Andy

02-08-2017, 01:04 PM

I hate stopping and taking pictures along the way and making write ups so I know how much work it takes to make a DIY like this one... this must have taken a long time so I thank Adam for going out of his way to make this thread, I think it could be very helpful. And since I don't think anyone has asked this question, I'll be that guy... So Adam, why did you measure all your bearing and ring clearances? If you buy the correct parts shouldn't they all fit? What if my clearances are not in tolerance? Now what do I do Adam?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

aluthman

02-08-2017, 02:08 PM

vce1232000

02-08-2017, 02:36 PM

http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/trollface/dnftt-smiley-emoticon.jpg (http://www.sherv.net/)

b7_Andy

02-08-2017, 02:46 PM

I measured them so I knew for a fact that all my clearances were in spec. After measuring, I would have been fine throwing them all together, but I wasn't taking that chance. If they are slightly out, you can mix and match bearing halves to try to get them where you want them. If that fails, you have to get smaller or larger bearings as the situation dictates.

Ring gaps must be filed to fit the cylinder it is going in. I had to file a couple thousandths off each ring except the oil control rings to get them where I wanted them. I don't know if they are filed to fit at the factory, but they aren't working with a used block that has been honed either.

That makes sense. What companies did you get your bearings and rings from? I know some companies have sold parts that were way out of tolerance. What if you get rings that have too large of a gap? Do you just scrap them and get new ones? And also why did you clearance your rings to the highest allowed tolerance? I know you said it was for running more boost but wouldn't you want the smallest gap possible so it's even less likely you'll consume oil?

Charles.waite

02-08-2017, 03:12 PM

Larger gap is more heat tolerant. Since he's running an EFR it makes sense considering the power he'll be pushing.

jbain2

02-08-2017, 03:17 PM

That makes sense. What companies did you get your bearings and rings from? I know some companies have sold parts that were way out of tolerance. What if you get rings that have too large of a gap? Do you just scrap them and get new ones? And also why did you clearance your rings to the highest allowed tolerance? I know you said it was for running more boost but wouldn't you want the smallest gap possible so it's even less likely you'll consume oil?

I think it depends on the rods and pistons. I used OE pistons so I used OE rings. I have I.E. rods. I used bearings from them as well. Not sure of the brand.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

aluthman

02-08-2017, 03:17 PM

b7_Andy

02-08-2017, 03:42 PM

I bought me bearings from IE. They were Kolbenschmidt brand IIRC. My rings were OEM Mahle rings. Rings come gapped small so if you have a set that's too big, return them. The oil control ring primarily prevents oil consumption. I ran max gap on the compression rings to allow for greater expansion that results from the extra heat and cylinder pressure from putting out over double the power of stock.

Ah okay that makes sense. So you set all 3 rings to .0016"? Thanks for answering my many questions, you're one of the most knowledgeable peeps in the B7 forum to get this info from.

aluthman

02-08-2017, 03:45 PM

The oil control ring just has a minumum spec to meet. I don't remember exactly what they measured at, but it was plenty big. Something like 0.20" I think.

b7_Andy

02-08-2017, 04:07 PM

The oil control ring just has a minumum spec to meet. I don't remember exactly what they measured at, but it was plenty big. Something like 0.20" I think.

Wow that is big, I wonder why. And that's just the minimum it has to meet?

aluthman

02-08-2017, 04:21 PM

I meant to type 0.020". That's about what it measured. The minimum was 0.015" IIRC.

tyler_b7

02-08-2017, 04:28 PM

Thanks for the help!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

b7_Andy

02-08-2017, 05:44 PM

I meant to type 0.020". That's about what it measured. The minimum was 0.015" IIRC.

Gotcha I was going to say that could be measured with a ruler haha

Charles.waite

02-08-2017, 07:17 PM

As an aside, goofs like that are why small metric units are much easier to use than imperial. 0.02" is half a milimeter. Much easier to state clearly without slipping a decimal.

Also which is it. .016 or .0016? Both have been stated...

b7_Andy

02-08-2017, 07:59 PM

Charles.waite

02-08-2017, 10:33 PM

.016" I messed up before. 16 thousandths as my professors would say lol

Haha. Cool. Just wanted to clear that up.

pezgoon

02-09-2017, 01:24 PM

Also why the rings need to be gapped larger is explained pretty well in this video

https://youtu.be/AScojLj139A?list=PLGvTvFzdMg_O2T3UdUEt5dIHutSOu7sr E

It is basically because they expand when they get hot, and when they expand because it's a circle they become oblonged and need to expand and push somewhere to move to, since it's in a piston and there's no room, it ends up cracking the top of the piston off to make room

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

aluthman

07-04-2017, 07:41 PM

I would just like to take the time to say fuck Photobucket for holding my pictures ransom. I will not be paying $400 a year for image hosting. You can still access the pictures by clicking on them, but they won't show automatically.

vce1232000

07-04-2017, 07:49 PM

Schmauster

03-04-2018, 10:30 AM

Thanks for posting this up, clicking on the pics didnt work for me?

aluthman

03-04-2018, 02:58 PM

You'll have to get one of the photobucket fixes.

Lorenzo816

12-04-2018, 07:16 AM

use this for pics.
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/search/photobucket%20embed%20fix

damn good info and pics.
I never notice the pb issues because i always have the extension running fulltime.

Van Black

12-12-2018, 10:26 PM

Adam, this was the engine for the big turbo, right? What bearings did you use?

Charles.waite

12-14-2018, 04:41 PM

aluthman

12-14-2018, 05:18 PM

Adam, this was the engine for the big turbo, right? What bearings did you use?

This was the 2nd of 3 built engines I did for my cars. This is the one I hydrolocked and subsequently windowed the block. The one currently in my car with the EFR bolted to it uses Mahle Motorsports bearings and Calico coated ACL rod bearings. Standard clearance on both (clearance specs list din this thread).

aluthman

12-14-2018, 05:21 PM

Here’s a question, and pardon if it’s sort off topic but not too far, but for my current engine build I’m doing rods and am going to rering my pistons. Would it be worth buying a set of used crowned pistons since they’re forged in place of the flat top BWT pistons? I have drop-in IE rods going in and eventually hope to shoot for 350-400hp with a GTX but may settle for a K04.

Is there a major weight or strength difference between the crowned forged and the cast flat pistons? Maybe @Aluthman can chime in since he has experience with both.

Weight difference is negligible if memory serves, but the BPG pistons are definitely stronger. You also get a bump from 10.3:1 to 10.5:1 compression. I had the crowns milled off (as shown in this thread) to put me at about 9.5:1.

Charles.waite

12-15-2018, 03:18 PM

Weight difference is negligible if memory serves, but the BPG pistons are definitely stronger. You also get a bump from 10.3:1 to 10.5:1 compression. I had the crowns milled off (as shown in this thread) to put me at about 9.5:1.

Thanks for the info. YGPM.

AudiB720TS

12-16-2018, 12:23 AM

Great thread!

I'm not sure I understand why the lower oil dip stick pipe was removed. Could it have been left on the block?

aluthman

12-16-2018, 04:58 AM

Great thread!

I'm not sure I understand why the lower oil dip stick pipe was removed. Could it have been left on the block?

If you are just repainting the block without having the old paint stripped off or are not repainting it, then yes you can leave it in. I needed to remove it to send the block to get shot blasted, which would likely have destroyed the lower dipstick tube if left in place.

Van Black

12-17-2018, 04:30 AM

Here’s a question, and pardon if it’s sort off topic but not too far, but for my current engine build I’m doing rods and am going to rering my pistons. Would it be worth buying a set of used crowned pistons since they’re forged in place of the flat top BWT pistons? I have drop-in IE rods going in and eventually hope to shoot for 350-400hp with a GTX but may settle for a K04.

Is there a major weight or strength difference between the crowned forged and the cast flat pistons? Maybe @Aluthman can chime in since he has experience with both.

I might be wrong, but from what I could tell the upper ring land is also reinforced.

I found a datasheet from Mahle comparing the older 1.8 5v dish pistons and the crown ones. The weight difference is 23g.
The crown ones are for 110bar peak pressure while the dish ones show 85 bar peak. They're also both stated as forged from Mahle 142 metal

aluthman

12-17-2018, 07:25 AM

I might be wrong, but from what I could tell the upper ring land is also reinforced.

I found a datasheet from Mahle comparing the older 1.8 5v dish pistons and the crown ones. The weight difference is 23g.
The crown ones are for 110bar peak pressure while the dish ones show 85 bar peak. They're also both stated as forged from Mahle 142 metal
He’s asking about the old crowned pistons (05.5-06) vs the newer flat top pistons (07-08). Not sure the 1.8 piston data is useful here.

Van Black

12-18-2018, 04:06 AM

He’s asking about the old crowned pistons (05.5-06) vs the newer flat top pistons (07-08). Not sure the 1.8 piston data is useful here.

I know the older ones might not help in regards to the new dish ones. But maybe someone else might find info on the dish ones and compare it with the crown info I have

aluthman

12-18-2018, 05:28 PM

This is all a contingency plan if I'm still burning oil after getting my head back from the machine shop. I'm going to do a stock piston build on my spare block. I will be using drop in rods and I already have a crank that *should* be useable. Here is why I want these pistons specifically:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps6lfqldrg.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps6lfqldrg.jpg.html)
These are the two types of 2.0T FSI pistons, AFAIK. The one on the right was what came out of my BPG engine when I built it. The one on the left came out of a '07 BPY engine in a GLI. The BPG had a higher compression ratio 10.5:1 vs 10.3:1, but the biggest difference between the two is this:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscljcycju.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscljcycju.jpg.html)

Notice the casting lines in the dished BPY piston. The BPG pistons doesn't have these, meaning that, you guessed it, the BPY pistons are cast and the BPG pistons are forged. This is why I'm specifically looking for the crowned pistons.

I believe this guy ^

FatMongo

02-08-2020, 09:06 AM

Phenomenal thread - shitty photobucket. Any chance the images can be resurrected? This thread is absolute gold.

aluthman

02-08-2020, 09:50 AM

Now that photobucket got smart and decided to be realistic with pricing, I got a paid account. The images should be restored soon.

Edit: Images are back.

FatMongo

02-08-2020, 02:06 PM

Now that photobucket got smart and decided to be realistic with pricing, I got a paid account. The images should be restored soon.

Edit: Images are back.

Awesome - thank you a million!

FatMongo

03-08-2020, 03:17 PM

Adam,

I think Im going to refer to this thread ALOT over the next few weeks/months...

As I posted in my other thread...

Had a day off from work on Friday, swung by the local junkyard as they had just gotten in an 2007 A4 2.0, but that engine turned out to look like trash. Went to another junkyard where i had seen a decent looking BPY in a Jetta a few weeks back, but that engine had been snagged. As i was getting ready to leave the yard, i saw a 2007 passat wagon that had come in around the same time as the jetta. Well, the passat looked clean, looked like it had been totalled out because of a minor fender bender (air bag was deployed). The engine looked ok from the outside and turned over pretty smooth. The kicker was because it was FWD, it was almost too easy to pull - so even though it was a high mileage motor - at least 175K, it looked like it was decent candidate and for $270, it was hard not to take a gamble on it. And here she is:

aluthman

03-08-2020, 04:51 PM

Good snag. Let me know if you have any questions.

FatMongo

05-01-2020, 12:55 PM

I believe this guy ^

Adam,

I'm wondering about the BPG vs. BPY piston. The BPY piston is flatter and the BPG has a 'gulley'. In my mind, it would stand to reason that the BPY piston would have higher compression because it is flatter and there is just that few cc's less area in the cylinder for the combustion to take place. Yet, you state, the dished BPG piston engine has a higher compression ration (10.5 vs. 10.3). Im not understand why the flatter topped piston has less compression in the same block and head.

aluthman

05-01-2020, 03:00 PM

Because the crowns on the BPG pistons stick out above the deck of the block at TDC. This means that they take up space in the combustion chamber of the head and compress everything that much further.

FatMongo

05-01-2020, 06:18 PM

Because the crowns on the BPG pistons stick out above the deck of the block at TDC. This means that they take up space in the combustion chamber of the head and compress everything that much further.

Oh duh. That makes perfect sense! Thank you.

FatMongo

05-21-2020, 05:24 PM

Damn it! I think Photobucket is screwing with us again. Adam, is there anyway I can get your Word document with the images for post #74 emailed to me if you still have it? I will PM you my email address.

Thanks!!!

aluthman

05-23-2020, 10:54 AM

The pictures are all still showing for me. What’s wrong with them on your end?

Yogibara

02-23-2021, 03:13 PM

Necro-bumping so I can find it in the Audizine app.

I just reinstalled the crank today. Using this to reference the piston rings install now. Cheers.

aluthman

02-23-2021, 04:35 PM

I pmed Stokes to get this thread moved to the DIY section, but no go so far...

@anthony

Bloomquist

07-28-2021, 02:40 PM

I pmed Stokes to get this thread moved to the DIY section, but no go so far...

@anthony

I love this thread, i keep re-reading it as i prep to build my motor. Thanks so much.

aluthman

07-30-2021, 01:42 AM

No problem. Glad you’re finding it useful.