Replacing OEM battery S4 B8

[z53dimon]

Hi guys!
Did not find any thread related on battery for our S4 B8. Mine has OEM Varta 110ah, CCA 850 EN with Part Number 8K0 915 105 F .

http://www.happyparts.de/Bilder_2013/4/8K0915105F-24.jpg

However, it seems this battery is old one, and I found a replacement battery VARTA Silver Dynamic 110ah but 920 EN with Part Number 610 402 092 316 2

It is also possible to get Exide EB1100 110AH , CCA 850 EN. The same specification as in my original battery.

The question is: is the new Varta with CCA 920A is OK to replace, or it would be better to get Exide with the same specs as original one (110AH / CCA 850 EN)? Some people say it is even better especially during winter, but other think it may be additional load on Starter. What do you guys think?

[LYKUNO]

Don't have an answer for you, but did find this thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/625917-Replacing-The-Battery) on a B8 S4 battery replacement that may help.

[wwhan]

I replaced mine with a Duracell from Autozone: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-platinum-battery/audi/s4-quattro/2011/6-cylinders-g-3-0l-fi-dohc-sc/319459_726808_0/

Many people have gone to a dealer to get a battery.

Well there are a lot of battery posts:


http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/668569-How-many-here-have-changed-their-battery?highlight=battery+replacement (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/668569-How-many-here-have-changed-their-battery?highlight=battery+replacement)

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/636406-Well-is-time-for-a-new-battery-any-suggestions?highlight=battery

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/668569-How-many-here-have-changed-their-battery?highlight=battery
(http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/668569-How-many-here-have-changed-their-battery?highlight=battery)

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/612499-does-this-mean-its-almost-time-for-a-new-battery?highlight=battery

[Militant-Grunt]

Mind you, if you have your battery replaced, you need to perform a adaptation for the gateway, instructing it that there is a new battery. Otherwise the battery management in the car is not going to regulate the voltage correctly. Could lead to premature failure of your new battery.

[breyton490]

According to this article, the car's computer will self-adapt if the battery has no BEM code.

Read This (http://www.bannerbatterien.com/DealerSearch/import/load/customercare/5D19FD12B11E254FC1257CA000237144/$FILE/Newsletter_BEM_Dezember_2010_gb.pdf)

[wwhan]

Mind you, if you have your battery replaced, you need to perform a adaptation for the gateway, instructing it that there is a new battery. Otherwise the battery management in the car is not going to regulate the voltage correctly. Could lead to premature failure of your new battery.

One can just make up a code using the first few letters of the old code, then serial number digits from the new battery (entered with VAGCOM). It worked fine with my battery. It just needs to identify it as a new battery.

[z53dimon]

Thank you guys! Will study given links .
Sure, I am gonna code the new battery , even if it has the same specs.

[breyton490]

Just called Audi Parts for a cost on a replacement battery... $269.10.. Ouch..... That's quite a bit more just to get one with a BEM code....

[wwhan]

Just called Audi Parts for a cost on a replacement battery... $269.10.. Ouch..... That's quite a bit more just to get one with a BEM code....

I coded the Autozone Duralast battery, no problem, just used the same old letter code with the new serial number digits.

I fould this forum posting very useful for the battery recode: http://www.audiforums.com/forum/b8-models-72/audi-a4-b8-battery-coding-176172/#post1430403

Coding is not hard with a VAGCOM (Ross-Tech): http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_CAN_Gateway_Battery_Coding_%288T/8K/8R%2B%29

"[Select]
[19 - CAN-Gateway]
[Long Adaptation-0A]
Channel 004
[Read]
VCDS will populate instructions in the form of a pop-up balloon with the formatting. For example:

Format: NNNNNNNNNNN XXX ZZZZZZZZZZ

N = Battery Part Number (11 Digits)
X = Battery Vendor (3 Digits)
Z = Battery Serial Number (10 Digits)

[Add to Log] Saving the original value to a log is strongly recommended.
Type the New Battery details into the New value field.

Note, the New value must be 26 (alpha numeric) total characters including the spaces! If in doubt check the saved log for the original battery formatting details.

[Test]
[Save]
Providing the value was accepted by the controller the new battery coding is complete.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06] "

[DeltaHawk60]

According to this article, the car's computer will self-adapt if the battery has no BEM code.

Read This (http://www.bannerbatterien.com/DealerSearch/import/load/customercare/5D19FD12B11E254FC1257CA000237144/$FILE/Newsletter_BEM_Dezember_2010_gb.pdf)

So I just had my OEM battery fail on me this weekend after filling up (2012, just hit 30k miles, seems rather soon?)... had driven it twice that morning, but then that third start, without any sort of low-battery indication, it simply would not start. Heard the starter clicking, but not enough to crank. Anyway, got a jump, headed to Interstate Battery and had them hook me up with a new one and fired right up.

Now I'm curious as to the "coding" since there is a bunch of conflicting data... Have done a search through the forums and people say you need to do it, yet others say they've never done it and no issues after replacing battery. I called my dealership and service manager said that if there were no warnings / advisories / CEL when I started with the new one, that I did not need to do anything further.

Also the new battery does not have a BEM code label... so from the quoted bulletin from 2010 (references A6s, but suggests all models?) it says it will self-learn that there's a new battery. I get that I could have it coded with the same info as the previous battery and just change the serial number to something random so it knows there's a new battery, but is it actually necessary?

[SouthernBoy]

Y'all are kidding... right? Coding a battery replacement? Damn Germans. No wonder they lost the war (and thank God for that).

[wwhan]

So I just had my OEM battery fail on me this weekend after filling up (2012, just hit 30k miles, seems rather soon?)... had driven it twice that morning, but then that third start, without any sort of low-battery indication, it simply would not start. Heard the starter clicking, but not enough to crank. Anyway, got a jump, headed to Interstate Battery and had them hook me up with a new one and fired right up.

Now I'm curious as to the "coding" since there is a bunch of conflicting data... Have done a search through the forums and people say you need to do it, yet others say they've never done it and no issues after replacing battery. I called my dealership and service manager said that if there were no warnings / advisories / CEL when I started with the new one, that I did not need to do anything further.

Also the new battery does not have a BEM code label... so from the quoted bulletin from 2010 (references A6s, but suggests all models?) it says it will self-learn that there's a new battery. I get that I could have it coded with the same info as the previous battery and just change the serial number to something random so it knows there's a new battery, but is it actually necessary?

There is probably a code number on the side of the battery, look for a symbol like a QR code, with a number under it. It may require a flashlight on the side of the battery to see it. Mine was a Autozone Duralast, but it is made by Johnson Controls, same as Interstate.

I used JCB for Johnson Controls Battery Vendor 3 digit code: http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/us/en/products/power-solutions/battery-brands.html

"Johnson Controls is the leading supplier of batteries to many of the largest aftermarket battery retailers, including Advance Auto Parts, DAISA S.A., AutoZone, Costco, NAPA, Interstate Batteries, Walmart and more. Powering virtually every type of passenger car, light truck and utility vehicle, our batteries are globally sold under private labels, as well as our own brands – VARTA®, Heliar®, LTH®, MAC® and OPTIMA®."

[MerkurRS]

The battery has been acting up lately (advanced key working intermittently, hesitated starting and the length of time the radio was on while car was off had decreased dramatically) and the batteries' life had declined appreciably this week so much so, it wouldn't start when I went to wash it. I had to decide on a battery and find one to install.
As you know your choices vary a lot for this battery size (95R/ H9 in my case) between several brands and also between wet and AGM. Because they all weighed about the same- this was not a deciding factor. My choices on a Sunday were quite limited, so I couldn't really get a few exact prices, but made the assumption based on some web searches that AGM would be another $60-$100. I called the dealer the day before- they wanted close to $250 for the battery (list) and another $150 to install it. OUCH. I know the days of a "free battery install" in a car like this are over, but really?
I called a few mechanic buddies for their opinions: They agreed AGM was not worth is since this is not a hi vibration application and a wet battery would be perfect. Pep Boys had a Bosch for about $160 (after coupon), but one mech. friend said he has seen a lot of newer Bosch battery failures lately and suggested against it. I have had bad experiences lately with Interstate in other cars, so that was out. I like Deka batteries a lot, but I would have to wait until Monday to find one, plus if I ever needed service on it- they are 25 miles away from me.
I decided AGM, Bosch and OE were not worth the extra cost and I settled on buying one from Advance Auto. I am extremely glad I did too! I used a 30% off coupon and received another $20 reward perk back dropping the final cost to about $125. The best news is that the battery is made in Germany by Varta and came with the proper BEM code on the new battery. So you can disregard the info above on "tricking" your car to accept any BEM code you conjure up.....the Advance Auto is ready to go complete with a proper code! I drove to my local A/A to pick up my order...unfortunately the battery on their shelf was OVER 2 years old already. Buying a battery is like buying groceries- read your date codes!. I called around and found another store that had one in stock a little over a month old. Perfect!!
I got the battery installed and car coded with the proper BEM and now I am ready to enjoy the car again....and head to the car wash [:D]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/da4rHdoDvcRINNcVN3VGf5X_P4W-Gcy4DDupF1gy4orZaxyd4V0QCjp7bOP8GdsVRh3pfIhiG0Q-P9Acq1ONpfLQ_wDBQkF8F-8D39p65a_KLEuzMBbsbTFy-YSjC1io7QhZcIxYxRFN3twbH0F7MAkuFqo6OVAvQ5YXuue5b5g t5xBuyiyb77fD3u73UN0Xsnle2QZnpeGz9_sFzqj1cnQN8fPDC I01HbzsH71pc3_tLXVn7aVyKg4TuvWuuttqBKKpokF37pt1pYR tMUgLnDdE0I50wMznLJKLUxry3XqiB5KTQ04YOlbyo4DSt1zGx bgXYX0dCXBqE5vbkIoaC1fzWK8P2SPlqsznrfYRJcOvSyxn_nx WecqUxOl60gSV2Qwd4bUtxd701R0TErbduTQuxDamBITDuea3M _ebTHsGfuEWFIBzGFvK8y32RAbspdDjjGn6k_5y0ZNkhZY4v4N 0pie99wHyH3c2Ql6lYY_CzMMD4NPJKNf6hZXgaZM4UYV-mWRQMHUxKl0KNOxatq8EBlldFwBTvHq05uscTCN5a0FUEDaxym DR-_BEwVx3kyUUFw=w1698-h955-no

[masanca]

I coded the Autozone Duralast battery, no problem, just used the same old letter code with the new serial number digits.

I fould this forum posting very useful for the battery recode: http://www.audiforums.com/forum/b8-models-72/audi-a4-b8-battery-coding-176172/#post1430403

Coding is not hard with a VAGCOM (Ross-Tech): http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_CAN_Gateway_Battery_Coding_%288T/8K/8R%2B%29

"[Select]
[19 - CAN-Gateway]
[Long Adaptation-0A]
Channel 004
[Read]
VCDS will populate instructions in the form of a pop-up balloon with the formatting. For example:

Format: NNNNNNNNNNN XXX ZZZZZZZZZZ

N = Battery Part Number (11 Digits)
X = Battery Vendor (3 Digits)
Z = Battery Serial Number (10 Digits)

[Add to Log] Saving the original value to a log is strongly recommended.
Type the New Battery details into the New value field.

Note, the New value must be 26 (alpha numeric) total characters including the spaces! If in doubt check the saved log for the original battery formatting details.

[Test]
[Save]
Providing the value was accepted by the controller the new battery coding is complete.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06] "


Im trying to CODE my battery Autozone Durmast battery please help me

[jayts]

I'm about to change my battery to a stinger battery for my audio system, what needs to be coded I don't get it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[skiracerblah]

So, i'm getting conflicting information on if i need to code a new battery or not. I can get a OEM battery from the dealer at the same price as the Autozone battery described above http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-platinum-battery/audi/s4-quattro/2011/6-cylinders-g-3-0l-fi-dohc-sc/319459_726808_0/?CJPID=6147009&cmpid=cj

Do i need to have some sort of memory saver so i don't lose any of my settings. Or can i just simply just remove old battery, install new OEM battery and everything will work ok and i won't lose any memory settings or other electrical problems?

[Gunnark100]

So, i'm getting conflicting information on if i need to code a new battery or not. I can get a OEM battery from the dealer at the same price as the Autozone battery described above http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-platinum-battery/audi/s4-quattro/2011/6-cylinders-g-3-0l-fi-dohc-sc/319459_726808_0/?CJPID=6147009&cmpid=cj

Do i need to have some sort of memory saver so i don't lose any of my settings. Or can i just simply just remove old battery, install new OEM battery and everything will work ok and i won't lose any memory settings or other electrical problems?

If you replace battery without connected power source under hood, all you need after is sync your key(some cases no need) and windows and adjust time and clear error codes, 2min job. No other settings will be lost(at least not on my car), had battery disconnected "few" times!

And if you getting same battery as your old, just change last digit of your battery code(serial) under gateway module 19!

[skiracerblah]

If you replace battery without connected power source under hood, all you need after is sync your key(some cases no need) and windows and adjust time and clear error codes, 2min job. No other settings will be lost(at least not on my car), had battery disconnected "few" times!

And if you getting same battery as your old, just change last digit of your battery code(serial) under gateway module 19!

Will this work, if i have access to another 12V battery, can i run jumper cables from the other battery and connect it to the battery terminals in trunk of car. Then swap batteries. Then, disconnect jumper cables?

Note, i don't have VAG-Com

[Gunnark100]

You should have + terminal under hood, close to the wiper, connect + there and - to the clean bodypart...it will work, same procedure on elsawin, but i recommend find somebody later to change code!

[waxxonMTL]

whn it comes to battery.. i believe the odyssey are on top. On SQ car audio forum, they are well respected item. I remember 1 yr ago, sears were selling their own brand deep cycle and were about half price of what a regular odeyssey would sell, yet were made by them and performed flawlessly on my other car, but now that i read i need coding.. i might just buy the OEM stuff lol -.- !

[purelife]

Are our batteries AGM?

[skiracerblah]

yes

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Senseless]

Are our batteries AGM?

Not always. I don't think mine was, or my dealer replacement part was AGM. Neither said AGM and both had translucent white cases where I could see the fluid levels. My car was built in 2011 and was a 2012 model year.

[infinkc]

Since this thread has been bumped, the cheapest replacement battery out there with the best warranty is actually Home Depot! They started to carry auto batteries and are great prices.

[abamfo]

I went to a battery dealer to get mine checked out. He is a Varta dealer and had a special Varta testing tool to test the OEM battery, we ran the tests and it instructed us to replace the battery (who would've thought!). We then went to the Varta battery catalogur and looked up an S5 3.0 TFSI, it said the recommended battery replacement was a Varta G14 (95A | 850 CCA). He did say that the only other option is an H14 (105A | 950 CCA) but it might not fit in the battery housing in my car as it is wider.

There is no issue with getting a battery with more cold cranking amps, just measure your battery and make sure the Varta one you choose is the same size or fits in the housing. See link below, obviously it's the Silver AGM ones. Also my guy did the coding for me and installation for free, just had to buy the battery through him but if you have vcds it's really quite simple.

http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/silver-dynamic/

[fitzydude]

The battery has been acting up lately (advanced key working intermittently, hesitated starting and the length of time the radio was on while car was off had decreased dramatically) and the batteries' life had declined appreciably this week so much so, it wouldn't start when I went to wash it. I had to decide on a battery and find one to install.
As you know your choices vary a lot for this battery size (95R/ H9 in my case) between several brands and also between wet and AGM. Because they all weighed about the same- this was not a deciding factor. My choices on a Sunday were quite limited, so I couldn't really get a few exact prices, but made the assumption based on some web searches that AGM would be another $60-$100. I called the dealer the day before- they wanted close to $250 for the battery (list) and another $150 to install it. OUCH. I know the days of a "free battery install" in a car like this are over, but really?
I called a few mechanic buddies for their opinions: They agreed AGM was not worth is since this is not a hi vibration application and a wet battery would be perfect. Pep Boys had a Bosch for about $160 (after coupon), but one mech. friend said he has seen a lot of newer Bosch battery failures lately and suggested against it. I have had bad experiences lately with Interstate in other cars, so that was out. I like Deka batteries a lot, but I would have to wait until Monday to find one, plus if I ever needed service on it- they are 25 miles away from me.
I decided AGM, Bosch and OE were not worth the extra cost and I settled on buying one from Advance Auto. I am extremely glad I did too! I used a 30% off coupon and received another $20 reward perk back dropping the final cost to about $125. The best news is that the battery is made in Germany by Varta and came with the proper BEM code on the new battery. So you can disregard the info above on "tricking" your car to accept any BEM code you conjure up.....the Advance Auto is ready to go complete with a proper code! I drove to my local A/A to pick up my order...unfortunately the battery on their shelf was OVER 2 years old already. Buying a battery is like buying groceries- read your date codes!. I called around and found another store that had one in stock a little over a month old. Perfect!!
I got the battery installed and car coded with the proper BEM and now I am ready to enjoy the car again....and head to the car wash [:D]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/da4rHdoDvcRINNcVN3VGf5X_P4W-Gcy4DDupF1gy4orZaxyd4V0QCjp7bOP8GdsVRh3pfIhiG0Q-P9Acq1ONpfLQ_wDBQkF8F-8D39p65a_KLEuzMBbsbTFy-YSjC1io7QhZcIxYxRFN3twbH0F7MAkuFqo6OVAvQ5YXuue5b5g t5xBuyiyb77fD3u73UN0Xsnle2QZnpeGz9_sFzqj1cnQN8fPDC I01HbzsH71pc3_tLXVn7aVyKg4TuvWuuttqBKKpokF37pt1pYR tMUgLnDdE0I50wMznLJKLUxry3XqiB5KTQ04YOlbyo4DSt1zGx bgXYX0dCXBqE5vbkIoaC1fzWK8P2SPlqsznrfYRJcOvSyxn_nx WecqUxOl60gSV2Qwd4bUtxd701R0TErbduTQuxDamBITDuea3M _ebTHsGfuEWFIBzGFvK8y32RAbspdDjjGn6k_5y0ZNkhZY4v4N 0pie99wHyH3c2Ql6lYY_CzMMD4NPJKNf6hZXgaZM4UYV-mWRQMHUxKl0KNOxatq8EBlldFwBTvHq05uscTCN5a0FUEDaxym DR-_BEwVx3kyUUFw=w1698-h955-no

Kind of an old post but thank you so much for this, I love advance auto and after running all over town looking for an interstate battery advance auto came through having this battery in stock. Was this one you bought 950 cca? The one I ordered was and it had the same part number and looks identical to yours.

[Dr GP]

According to this article, the car's computer will self-adapt if the battery has no BEM code.

Read This (http://www.bannerbatterien.com/DealerSearch/import/load/customercare/5D19FD12B11E254FC1257CA000237144/$FILE/Newsletter_BEM_Dezember_2010_gb.pdf)

Replaced mine with no with Duralast from Autozone about a yr ago. Did no adaptation. No issues.

[fitzydude]

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj249/fitzydude/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161108_181135997.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj249/fitzydude/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161108_181113937.jpg
I can't reiterate how good the advance auto battery is. It even has Audi/vw markings on it. I got 30% with code TRT30 and didn't pay a core charge when I picked it up in store. Three year warranty and it was half the price of the dealer. I did not have to code the battery either.

[jlaudio]

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj249/fitzydude/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161108_181135997.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj249/fitzydude/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161108_181113937.jpg
I can't reiterate how good the advance auto battery is. It even has Audi/vw markings on it. I got 30% with code TRT30 and didn't pay a core charge when I picked it up in store. Three year warranty and it was half the price of the dealer. I did not have to code the battery either.

Link to part number? dealer quoted me $350 for the battery/install today. i have a vag com and can code if needed.

[fitzydude]

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-95r-950-cca-95r-h9/2130016-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000

Seriously good deal with TRT30. And I was so glad they carried them in stock. Intestate battery was 220 and would take 10 business days to order.

This battery is rated at 950 CCA and the factory is 850 CCA. It's the same size and the more cranking amps the better imo.

[jlaudio]

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-95r-950-cca-95r-h9/2130016-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000

Seriously good deal with TRT30. And I was so glad they carried them in stock. Intestate battery was 220 and would take 10 business days to order.

This battery is rated at 950 CCA and the factory is 850 CCA. It's the same size and the more cranking amps the better imo.

$143 with the code. holy smokes thats a deal. any idea how i can recycle or return the battery in the car?

[fitzydude]

Oh yeah any auto parts store will take it. Oops I guess they did charge me $22 for a core, just got even cheaper lol.

[jlaudio]

Oh yeah any auto parts store will take it without a core.

i was charged $20 for the core on checkout. i have no problem with that since it will provide an easy return/refund. $123.85 including tax. the store is only about 4 miles from me.

really appreciate the quick responses, this saved me a bunch of money. i have an appointment for service with the dealer on thurs and can cancel the battery replacement. if you were local i'd buy you a few beers!

[fitzydude]

Haha. Next time Im in Utah I'll hold you to that!

[YBYJAP]

Thanks guys! The code still worked today. Although I went with the Platinum version because it was lighter weight, the code saved me $50!

[Moose201]

Was able to get an oem battery from the dealer today for $143. Normally $168 but they had a 15% coupon. It's been exactly 4 years so I thought I would be proactive with winter temps arriving.

[cjw]

When do people start worrying about the battery? I thought the OEM batteries where typically AGM, so are most aftermarket replacements also AGM?

What happens if you don't code the new one?

[Tanner]

What happens if you don't code the new one?

In one of the other posts:

Yes, the battery needs recoded if you're replacing it. Our cars do enter a low power state when the battery begins failing and unless you update the battery code via VAG-COM the car will not recognize the new battery and exit the power saving mode. It's fairly simple but I did it with an OEM battery so I was certain it would have the correct numbers needed.

I need a new battery also, it would have been three years old mid January, I would have expected to get *at least* four years out of a OEM battery as the battery is showing 50-60% after it sits overnight.

So the question now is, what's a good battery that I can get locally here in Canada.... I'll have to check the dealer tomorrow as the last time I got just the battery from them the price was actually pretty decent.

[cjw]

I ask because a lot of older posts, guys didn't bother.

[risc427]

I just replaced mine 1.5 weeks ago with the AutoCraft 95R/H9 (gold) recommended in this thread. It does have a BEM code on it, but I did not do any re-coding and have not experienced any issues.

I'm not clear on what this power saving mode is that has been mentioned or its impact on the vehicle. I'm not following how the vehicle would be "stuck" in this mode if the battery were replaced and providing correct power. I could see it not going into power saving mode in the future because of incorrect coding.

Regarding battery life: I think it's very situational, but I start considering replacement around the 4.5 - 5 year mark assuming the battery is showing proper health. Mostly because I live in a cold climate. I went 6 years on the battery in my B7 S4 and then it gave up on me on a very cold winter day. It showed signs of needing replacement long before, but I rolled the dice.

[Moose201]

Well, that was an ordeal. Battery swap was a breeze until I got to the coding. I followed the video tutorial and it was easy enough but the controller kept rejecting the serial number of the battery. I used the correct number of digits but it would only accept the S# when I fudged it by substituting letters for numbers at the very end of the sequence.

[jackal15]

Hi folks,
STF but couldn't find a definitive answer to this question for B8.5s. I'm getting a low battery warning for my 2013 with original OEM battery (Moll brand - 8KO 915 105 F). Could anyone confirm that the recommended Duralast battery below will work in my car? I've seen confirmations in this thread that it works in 2012 and older but want to make sure there wasnt a change to 2013. It's about $80 cheaper than I've been quoted by Audi and by an indy mechanic. Thanks!

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-platinum-battery/319459_322915_0

[jygesq]

Hi folks,
STF but couldn't find a definitive answer to this question for B8.5s. I'm getting a low battery warning for my 2013 with original OEM battery (Moll brand - 8KO 915 105 F). Could anyone confirm that the recommended Duralast battery below will work in my car? I've seen confirmations in this thread that it works in 2012 and older but want to make sure there wasnt a change to 2013. It's about $80 cheaper than I've been quoted by Audi and by an indy mechanic. Thanks!

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-platinum-battery/319459_322915_0 you do not need AGM battery. auto zone 95r/h9 will work it is cheaper see http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/671808-Replacing-OEM-battery-S4-B8 post #13

[Vogz]

I just replaced mine 1.5 weeks ago with the AutoCraft 95R/H9 (gold) recommended in this thread. It does have a BEM code on it, but I did not do any re-coding and have not experienced any issues.

I'm not clear on what this power saving mode is that has been mentioned or its impact on the vehicle. I'm not following how the vehicle would be "stuck" in this mode if the battery were replaced and providing correct power. I could see it not going into power saving mode in the future because of incorrect coding.

Regarding battery life: I think it's very situational, but I start considering replacement around the 4.5 - 5 year mark assuming the battery is showing proper health. Mostly because I live in a cold climate. I went 6 years on the battery in my B7 S4 and then it gave up on me on a very cold winter day. It showed signs of needing replacement long before, but I rolled the dice.

I'll be doing a battery replacement soon as a preventative measure on my 2011. Car will be 6 years old in May. It hasn't shown any signs of needing replacement though the dealer told me that it failed their test 15 months ago during my 45K (and last) AudiCare service, lol

It's a common misconception that cold climates kill car batteries. Heat is actually far more detrimental to a lead acid battery. As you said it had been showing signs of needing replacement well before it finally couldn't put out the amps required to start the car. The cold just lowers the amperage that the battery will put out temporarily until the battery warms up again.

[jackal15]

you do not need AGM battery. auto zone 95r/h9 will work it is cheaper see http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/671808-Replacing-OEM-battery-S4-B8 post #13

Thanks. Looked around and noticed that I can get the Autocraft AGM for $20 more after my discount. See any reason this one won't work?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-850-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P

[jygesq]

i do not know, it is possible AGM charges differently, but why bother , if car did not come with AGM, why do you need it?

[jackal15]

i do not know, it is possible AGM charges differently, but why bother , if car did not come with AGM, why do you need it?

Thanks. I guess my confusion comes from some people saying our cars came with AGM. I'll go with the autocraft non-AGM

[Crucible35]

Lots of misinterpretation of batteries here. It's very much a "get what you pay for" scenario. Should you get an AGM battery..... yes. AGM batteries are not nearly as susceptible to vibration as a non-AGM battery. Should the battery be coded. Yes. As Militant Grunt mentioned above, if you don't re-code the car to the new battery, the power management system in the car won't recognize the new battery and will improperly manage the battery voltage when that battery is reaching end of life which will come much more prematurely.
Will they work if you choose a non-AGM and don't code them?..... absolutely. However, you won't likely get the longevity out of the new battery and will pay more in replacements.
The company that I work for specifically deals in AGM batteries (non-car related applications) and the software we develop to manage the AGM battery (similar in our cars) has been designed to get the longest life out of the consumable.
So the question comes down to whether you want to get 2 years out of that new battery or 5.

[Jester2893]

Lots of misinterpretation of batteries here. It's very much a "get what you pay for" scenario. Should you get an AGM battery..... yes. AGM batteries are not nearly as susceptible to vibration as a non-AGM battery. Should the battery be coded. Yes. As Militant Grunt mentioned above, if you don't re-code the car to the new battery, the power management system in the car won't recognize the new battery and will improperly manage the battery voltage when that battery is reaching end of life which will come much more prematurely.
Will they work if you choose a non-AGM and don't code them?..... absolutely. However, you won't likely get the longevity out of the new battery and will pay more in replacements.
The company that I work for specifically deals in AGM batteries (non-car related applications) and the software we develop to manage the AGM battery (similar in our cars) has been designed to get the longest life out of the consumable.
So the question comes down to whether you want to get 2 years out of that new battery or 5.


Since you seem to know, do you happen to have a suggestion on a replacement battery for our cars that lasts and can handle not being driven during the winters and attached to a simple trickle charged that is not absurdly expensive?

[EHesh14]

Since you seem to know, do you happen to have a suggestion on a replacement battery for our cars that lasts and can handle not being driven during the winters and attached to a simple trickle charged that is not absurdly expensive?

Just grab a AutoCraft Gold battery from any advanced auto store. They are Varta Manufactured and even have the Audi/VW stamp on them & they come with a BEM code for a simple recode. I also grabbed a battery tender/charger from Napa and with that, still half the price of going to the dealership for a battery. I sent for the Pro Logic tender that will excercise the battery for you when charging is complete.

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-95r-950-cca-95r-h9/2130016-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000

http://www.cloreautomotive.com/category.php?id=91

[Jester2893]

Just grab a AutoCraft Gold battery from any advanced auto store. They are Varta Manufactured and even have the Audi/VW stamp on them & they come with a BEM code for a simple recode. I also grabbed a battery tender/charger from Napa and with that, still half the price of going to the dealership for a battery. I sent for the Pro Logic tender that will excercise the battery for you when charging is complete.

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-95r-950-cca-95r-h9/2130016-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000

http://www.cloreautomotive.com/category.php?id=91

I appreciate the help and especially with the current promo the advanced is a no brainer! Ill also looking those tenders as mine is currently very dated and wasn't very expensive so that could have been part of premature battery failure.
Thanks again!

[s14roller]

Just wondering, if you have an old battery that is starting to go, could you not trickle charge it to 100%, then swap out for a new battery? I'd assume the "battery level" stored by the car would think it's going from a full battery to another full battery and use the same battery software for it.

[Whistle]

S14roller- Good question, but it doesn't work like that.

Crucible35 could go into more detail than I on the control algorithms, but when you code the battery in, you are telling the car it has a new battery on that date and it essentially timestamps it. Over time the car manages the charging strategy based on a number of inputs. As your battery ages it's capacity decreases, and your car adjusts the charging algorithms.

Many modern cars don't just blindly charge your battery until it's at 100% SOC (state of charge) now. Most of them keep the alternator OFF until the battery reaches a certain threshold, at which point the alternator kicks in and begins charging your battery.

Why?

Gas mileage.

In the past cars ran off the alternator essentially, with the battery in the loop as a buffer.

More and more now, cars run off the battery and keep the alternator off to keep parasitic loss to a minimum. Same thing with electric power steering. Get rid of parasitic hydraulic pump, increase gas mileage, work battery harder.

So now you are driving a car full of tech and electronics and your battery is being used much more than they ever were in the past.

Here's my advice:

If you're going to sell your car soon, you can get by without coding your new battery, and you can put in a plain old flooded battery.

If you're going to keep your car for a while or if you just like better performance, put in an AGM battery. They're generally worth the extra money.

With batteries, as with many things, you get what you pay for.

AGM Benefits:
MUCH longer life
Better charge acceptance (charges faster)
More heat and cold resistant
Self discharges more slowly than a flooded battery (holds charge longer)
Can provide larger bursts of current when needed (More power!)
Better deep cycling ability
Less gassing
No free acid to spill in case of crash
And yes, much better vibration resistance.

Hope that helps!

[Dirt]

i do not know, it is possible AGM charges differently, but why bother , if car did not come with AGM, why do you need it?

Because it's maintenance free and won't vent inside your trunk / cabin of the car.

How many owners will actually go through the trouble to pull the spare to see if the battery needs water?

And AGM charges the same as a conventional battery.

[jackal15]

Ended up replacing mine with an Autocraft H8-AGM. Got it quite cheap from A/A after discount and core charge rebate. Only $20 more than the lead acid recommended here. Had an indy install/code it for $100 (i dont have an OBD tool) and all seems fine. Saved me $140ish over going to dealer.

[isles1]

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-95r-950-cca-95r-h9/2130016-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000

Seriously good deal with TRT30. And I was so glad they carried them in stock. Intestate battery was 220 and would take 10 business days to order.

This battery is rated at 950 CCA and the factory is 850 CCA. It's the same size and the more cranking amps the better imo.is this an AGM battery?

[sacandagaD]

is this an AGM battery?

Says "Lead Acid" instead of "Glass mat " so I'd guess no, but as others have stated, do you really need one, or just want one?

[risc427]

isles 1 - No, it is not.

[isles1]

Not sure. The battery I asked about is listed as a direct oem replacement. But is the OEM battery an AGM? Thanks!

[isles1]

Thanks. Looked around and noticed that I can get the Autocraft AGM for $20 more after my discount. See any reason this one won't work?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-850-cca-h8-agm/10210828-PI decided to go with the Autocraft Platinum AGM.

[Dr GP]

Never coded my battery when I replaced it over a 1 1/2 yrs ago. No issues.

[isles1]

Never coded my battery when I replaced it over a 1 1/2 yrs ago. No issues.Thanks for the reassurance. Changing mine out this weekend around the 4.5 year mark. No plans to code the new battery.

[isles1]

Anyone see any issue running jumper cables from a second car to the positive post and frame under the hood while swapping the battery? Solely for the purpose of not losing any settings due to lose of power. Thanks.

[Dr GP]

I did not lose any changes I had made using a vag com. Everything else should be easy to return to previous settings. BTW, how do you propose doing that. Either you connect it to the other car before you remove the battery, but I would be concerned about putting 24 volts to the electrical system until the battery was removed. If the battery is totally dead, it would not matter. If you could remove the cables at the exact moment you attached the cable from the other car that might work but accomplishing that might not be easy.Not really sure if it matters.

[isles1]

I just swapped the battery without any backup power. The only settings lost were the convenience window settings (auto up/down with key fob), tire pressure stored settings and trip computer mileage. I had to toggle the window settings on and off via Carista to get it working again.

[PenttisHSR]

you connect it to the other car before you remove the battery, but I would be concerned about putting 24 volts to the electrical system until the battery was removed.
If you connect + to +(red) and - to -(black/earth) between the batteries, they are in parallel = 12v.
You would only get 24v if you connected them in series (+ to - / - to +).

[Jroyalty7]

Necro bump! So was there a consensus reached on the battery replacements? I dont mind paying a little extra for an improved battery, what is everyone using? Those that swapped to aftermarket battery any updates? TIA

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[rnkjr]

Fwiw I installed a NAPA AGM part no 9849. Cost me $189 and is the same size as my OEM. It also has a vent port in the OEM location

[Jroyalty7]

Fwiw I installed a NAPA AGM part no 9849. Cost me $189 and is the same size as my OEM. It also has a vent port in the OEM locationI read AGMs are a superior battery as far as cold start amps etc... so that's good to know. Thank you

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[BucDan]

I was thinking about Costco's battery as the replacement. But any decent battery will do, right?

[quietcropduster]

Fwiw I installed a NAPA AGM part no 9849. Cost me $189 and is the same size as my OEM. It also has a vent port in the OEM locationJesus 58 lbs!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Jroyalty7]

From my research so far all the replacements are super heavy as well, and looking at Optimas it seems they have lost their dependability, plus you need to hand make a bracket to fit them. So I just ordered the Autocraft platinum from advanced auto as others recommended... shrugs... it's an AGM with better than OEM cold crank amps at 950. Wouldve really liked to go the weight savings route but dependability is more important to me. Plus it gives me initiative to lose like 30 lbs. Lmao

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[fillyo]

My indy installed an Interstate AGM battery with coding for $285, really good price. We have $40-60k vehicles here, with all the electronics, I would not be skimping on a cheaper battery.

[Jroyalty7]

My indy installed an Interstate AGM battery with coding for $285, really good price. We have $40-60k vehicles here, with all the electronics, I would not be skimping on a cheaper battery.The autocraft has very good reviews from multiple sources even several people here. Interstate wants like $289 for the locations near me... I'll take the extra $130 for now and see how it goes. Would love to run interstate but just too much $$$

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[rovision]

Got a Duracell AGM 850 CCA to replace my OEM Moll running out of life after 5 years. Made by Deka in USA. Used a tender battery to keep the power on during the swap and didn't lose anything in terms of functions and mods. It's a H8 size, group 49, and no adaptation needed. About $250 with install. Compared with other brands, comes with a 4y warranty.
I use a lighter plug-in voltmeter and so far charging is very stable at 14.3V while driving.

[BucDan]

The autocraft has very good reviews from multiple sources even several people here. Interstate wants like $289 for the locations near me... I'll take the extra $130 for now and see how it goes. Would love to run interstate but just too much $$$

Sent from my SM-G955U using Crapatalk
I can't seem to find the interstate battery for our S4 on their site. Any idea what battery model code to look for?

[TSTARKZ]

I just swapped the battery without any backup power. The only settings lost were the convenience window settings (auto up/down with key fob), tire pressure stored settings and trip computer mileage. I had to toggle the window settings on and off via Carista to get it working again.

Did the same with a Duralast H8-AGM this weekend. No coding. Only had to set the clock. All other functions and presets remained.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Jroyalty7]

This is the one I foundhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/ef9331fc0084978339016d7f98578ad3.jpg

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[khahn]

65744 Sams Club


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[BucDan]

What's so special with the AGM denotation?

[Crucible35]

The Absorbed Glass Matting in the battery acts like a sponge, absorbing the lead acid in the battery to keep it stable and cohesive to the lead plating in the battery. By keeping the acid stable, there is less deterioration in the battery over time due to the acid sloshing around and losing it's cohesion with the plates. It's a superior battery technology in these applications due to the inherent vibrations/movement of the car. The lead plating in the battery can be thicker or thinner depending on the quality and size/footprint of the battery....but, yeah, that's where the 58 lbs comes from....sounds about right.

[BucDan]

What size battery is recommended? H8?

[Jroyalty7]

Yes, but I used an h9 it fit just fine

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[plev72]

I just decided to pull the trigger and get a new battery as well. I've got the originally battery still fine in my 2012 S4 (bought November 2011). I've had the "low battery" pop on occassionally over the last year or so - but as the car still starts strong haven't worried about it. Moving to Morocco in July and figure if I don't replace the battery it will be dead by the time it gets there. If anyone is interested, I also went with the Advanced Auto Platinum, the H8 and H9 are the same price - but I keep getting a 20% off popup - so $152 + tax and core with free shipping to the house. I'm assuming the battery reset on my VAG tuner will sort the battery out.

[BucDan]

For those that recode, are you guys recoding after the new battery is installed, or before to pre-set it up? I feel like an idiot for asking this question.

[ni4nibaby]

For those that recode, are you guys recoding after the new battery is installed, or before to pre-set it up? I feel like an idiot for asking this question.

Well I have the same question. I plan to install the new OEM battery and then drive it to the dealer to have them recode it. Dealer want to charge me $80.00 for recoding. Now I'm searching to see if I can recode the battery using OBD 11.

[Matthew_VA]

Recode after new battery is installed.

[Leifmb]

MerkurRS - VERY good to know the Autocraft are basically Varta batteries in our case! It looks to me like an improved version with a Hydrometer Eye also. My thought is as long as it has the BEM code, I'll be good to go once my battery craps out!

Leif

[LeadToRome]

Hadn't even been thinking about this but with an '11, delivered Sept. '10. it's time. Thanks.

[Q5OnTheMove]

Maybe we start posting what each persons battery info is, CCA, Ah, agm or not?

This way others can easily code there cars to batteries correctly (including upgrading them if they want, H8 to H9).

[audistealth]

Maybe we start posting what each persons battery info is, CCA, Ah, agm or not?

This way others can easily code there cars to batteries correctly (including upgrading them if they want, H8 to H9).If people do this, please mention if B&O audio as well

[ModItNow]

Not sure if anyone could give me any pointers but for the life of me I cannot seem to get the control module thing back in place. It mounts to the back of the battery with a bracket. Can't figure out how to attach it.

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[Midnight_Rider]

Thanks for this thread. I just went through this. I'd like to add for others in the future.

My OEM (2014) is dying slowly for about three weeks where the gauge needle would either slow to turn on or slow to climb up. Then one day, it just wouldn't start. Here is what I went through:

1. Went through all the threads.
2. Find out the difference between AGM and Flooded (About $50 in cost difference).
- AGM: Absorbent Glass Matt:
a. Still needs Venting
b. It does better with Vibration: Flooded will slush around
c. You require this if you have STOP AND START feature in your car - This is also where the battery management comes in addition to low power management
d. No Maintenance - don't have to pour water in or check water level due to the weather

- Flooded: Water in battery
a. Still needs venting - Vent and vent hose for AGM is provided for B8.5 OEM battery
b. It doesn't do so good with Vibration and side to side - Like in racing. This is why you use a sealed vented box for racing - unlike AGM
c. You can't use this if you have STOP AND START feature in your car.
d. If it gets hot, you probably need to top off it with water. Read that it does well until about -15 degrees, but not 100% confirmed

I purchased the Advance Auto Gold 95R/H9 -110 Amp, 950 CCA/ 950 crank amperage (50 less than AGM Gold) for $130. I would have purchased the AGM, but it was going to take 5 business days, and I need the car.

I hope this helps. I'll update everyone to see what happens when I put this in tonight if I need VAGCOM changes or not.

[purelife]

My 2014 S4 battery is still fine after almost 5 years. My next battery probably will be a higher Amp Hour so my dash cam can last longer in parking mode.

[achilleas101]

Going to add my experience to this thread.

My OEM battery is slightly different than others, basically the code ends with E instead of F. Its 95ah and 450 amps (is that the cca?) and 760 regular cranking amps? i assume that's what the values mean. Anyway, mine's smaller i guess because i dont have Nav, so it doesnt require as much juice. Either way I upgraded to the Advance Auto platinum agm h8 which is also 95ah but 900 cca.

Recoding was an adventure. Cant find a code anywhere that fits all the parameters. So just changed a digit in the serial number and the life values reset (look at the can gateway-19, measuring blocks, #022, the last value forget the name). I figure the 95ah was the most critical value to match up. I think that how life expectancy is calculated (ah x 50). So after you set a new code it resets the life use and therefore calculates how much is left. The various codes i tried seem to alter the Ah value but the others were read from the battery. So that's where i drew my conclusion from.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190504/c61b25714da3d9ba18a5ccec78d5a430.jpg

[SFWhiteS4]

So anyone know what the size is for the b8.5 s4? Was looking at autozone and it says h6,h7,h8,h9 all fit. Anyone buy autozone ones? and what size did you use

- - - Updated - - -


My 2014 S4 battery is still fine after almost 5 years. My next battery probably will be a higher Amp Hour so my dash cam can last longer in parking mode.

What you end up using for battery?

[LmG7119]

Can somebody post a part number for H9?

[Atrevido]

I bought an Advance Auto Parts "AutoCraft Gold" H9, 950 CCA. Part # 95R/H9. Ordered it online with 25% discount for $123 plus tax. Thanks to previous words of wisdom on this forum I also bought
a battery tender to keep all the juices flowing while removing and replacing the battery. I did not recode the battery: no error codes to report.

140547

[Turnpipe]

You didn't have to recode?

[jsh139]

Bought the same battery. Got the same discount. No recoding. No problems.

[Atrevido]

You didn't have to recode?
No recoding involved. I read a bunch of threads on this topic: half the folks said it was necessary, and the other half said it wasn't.

[kristokes]

Setting the correct adaptation is recommended to prevent premature wear on the new battery.

[Atrevido]

An excellent point. Given the Florida heat, there's no reason not to extend the life of my new battery and protect my investment.
Just recoded a few minutes ago with OBDeleven.

[c spoke]

Replacing my first battery on this car (2014 S4) Bought an AutoCraft AGM H8 from Advanced Auto Parts (or at least that's what I payed for). When I got home, I noticed there were labels hiding underneath the outer labels. Just curious if this would this be concerning to any of you?
https://imgur.com/KC8GBm7
https://imgur.com/SjWN90N
https://imgur.com/wLFA2bH
https://imgur.com/KC8GBm7
https://imgur.com/SjWN90N
https://imgur.com/wLFA2bH

I realize that AAP bought out CarQuest, but that was back in 2013...

[sacandagaD]

Replacing my first battery on this car (2014 S4) Bought an AutoCraft AGM H8 from Advanced Auto Parts (or at least that's what I payed for). When I got home, I noticed there were labels hiding underneath the outer labels. Just curious if this would this be concerning to any of you?
https://imgur.com/KC8GBm7
https://imgur.com/SjWN90N
https://imgur.com/wLFA2bH
https://imgur.com/KC8GBm7
https://imgur.com/SjWN90N
https://imgur.com/wLFA2bH

I realize that AAP bought out CarQuest, but that was back in 2013...

Nah, wouldn't worry about the rebranding itself, but I'd wonder about the manufacture date of the battery, has it been sitting on a shelf for several years?

[c spoke]

I was thinking the same thing. There's a sticker on the side with a date of 04/19, but now I have trust issues with these labels lol.. they could have just slapped that on there too, trying to get rid of old inventory perhaps?

[sacandagaD]

I was thinking the same thing. There's a sticker on the side with a date of 04/19, but now I have trust issues with these labels lol.. they could have just slapped that on there too, trying to get rid of old inventory perhaps?

Yeah, doesn't instill a lot of confidence, but probably OK. If you haven't installed it yet, you could go back to AAP and say "hey, WTF"?

[c spoke]

Yeah, doesn't instill a lot of confidence, but probably OK. If you haven't installed it yet, you could go back to AAP and say "hey, WTF"?

Was the very first thing I did when I noticed this. Of course I got a canned reply from the guy who answered the phone at AAP, telling me about how they are the same brand etc.. When I pried further into why it would even have a CarQuest label on it with an AutoCraft label carefully placed over it (but not perfectly), considering they acquired CQ over 6 years ago, the guy got impatient with me and let me know that he had no idea at all. He said look for a round sticker on the side with a date and you should be good to go then hung up.

Here's a square label I found on the side instead:
https://imgur.com/knfiA6p

Kind of annoyed at this but I guess there's nothing I can do really. I'll just keep a close eye on the battery levels going forward. At least it comes with a 3yr warranty...

[Novarider]

Was the very first thing I did when I noticed this. Of course I got a canned reply from the guy who answered the phone at AAP, telling me about how they are the same brand etc.. When I pried further into why it would even have a CarQuest label on it with an AutoCraft label carefully placed over it (but not perfectly), considering they acquired CQ over 6 years ago, the guy got impatient with me and let me know that he had no idea at all. He said look for a round sticker on the side with a date and you should be good to go then hung up.

Here's a square label I found on the side instead:
https://imgur.com/knfiA6p

Kind of annoyed at this but I guess there's nothing I can do really. I'll just keep a close eye on the battery levels going forward. At least it comes with a 3yr warranty...

I wouldn't accept that. Take it back and ask for another one. If they refuse call your bank/cc company and file a claim.

[Teamnct4]

Can you recode new batteries with Carista as well, or just OBDeleven?

[c spoke]

I wouldn't accept that. Take it back and ask for another one. If they refuse call your bank/cc company and file a claim.

Because I was in a bind and needed to get somewhere after being unable to start for a few days, I went ahead and installed it anyway. I figure if it's an artificial manufacturer date they slapped on there, it will show with premature wear and I'll call upon the 3 year warranty it came with.

To make matters even worse, the damn thing has no BEM sticker on it so I didn't do any recoding after install. OBD11 is showing the battery levels at less than 30% which isn't surprising as it still shows the OEM codes in there. I imagine this is bad and the system will try to overcharge the hell out of the new battery?

There's a tiny QR code on the side that, when scanned, just shows the numbers printed next to it. I can't find any manufacturer code anywhere which is what it looks like OBD11 needs to code this.

Have any of you out there self installed and coded an AutoCraft AGM Platinum H8 in this vehicle? Any tips would be super appreciated! I've read through more recoding threads than I can count but still can't do this right...

[c spoke]

http://imgur.com/gallery/zbFuvAl

Image of the small QR that's on the H8 battery side, and image of what OBD11 is looking for to recode... Still showing OEM parameters from old battery.

Any ideas? Is it true that these batteries made by Johnson Controls so could I potentially use JCL as the 3 letter manufacturer code? And can I just make up a bogus number for the serial? It looks like the BEM number, ending in F, is actually there on the battery side..?

Why the F is this such a ridiculous gray area lol it's comical..

[evanb]

To make matters even worse, the damn thing has no BEM sticker on it so I didn't do any recoding after install. OBD11 is showing the battery levels at less than 30% which isn't surprising as it still shows the OEM codes in there. I imagine this is bad and the system will try to overcharge the hell out of the new battery?
.

Just change the last digit of the old BEM number and you should be good.

[Mike-s4]

Just change the last digit of the old BEM number and you should be good.

I have upgraded battery to AGM. (pep boys has 25% off. Bosch $148 before tax). So, there is no BEM with Bosch. Does the BEM contain certain data about battery stats? If I used old code with 1 digit difference will it create an improper match if battery is different type/amps etc?

[TC_S4]

When you change a new battery, you do a battery adaptation to tell de computer that you have a battery and regulate the voltage in consequence for the charging. The question is what happen, if you never did the adaptation when you changed the battery, and in a year or 2 two, bought a vagcom cable and you decide to do a battery adaptation. Will the computer, know it's not a brand new battery or it will charge the battery like it was new?

[S4'ed]

I just changed my battery too...the original 10 year old was still fine, but I didn't want to live on borrowed time anymore.

From all I have read, and guessed, all the Battery Management system "cares" about is the AH capacity of the battery, I don't think it cares about the Cold Cranking Amp rating (DIN or SAE). So, if the new battery is the same AH rating as the old, then you can just change one digit of the original BEM code (the serial number portion) to reset the Battery Management System. But, if your new battery is a different AH rating than the old, there is more to change in the BEM coding. The system needs to know the new AH rating, in addition to the serial number change for the system reset. I don't think the system cares whether it is an AGM or wet cell type.

So, how do you code the AH rating of the battery? ...follow along...a little techno-trivia...
There are 3 versions of the Battery Energy Management system used during B8/B8.5 production, depending on the year. The versions are:
#1 has a separate Battery Management module which shows up in the VAGCOM module list as "Battery Regulation"
#2 is integrated into the CAN Gateway Module with "CAN" communication protocol
#3 is also integrated into the CAN Gateway module but uses the newer "UDS" protocol.

For version #1 and #2, I think the system gets the AH rating from the battery part number portion of the coding. The module must have a part number "lookup" table inside. So, if you change the AH rating, you need to change the part number to correspond with the new AH rating.
For version #3, there is a VCDS adaption field to enter the AH rating, labeled "Battery Size".

So, if you have version #1 or #2, here are some factory battery pns and AH ratings, with a BEM code, in case your new battery has no BEM code sticker, and is a different AH rating from the original battery. All "0" are zeros..not ohs...
8K0915105D AH=80 BEM = 8K0915105D MLA 190723N0A6
8K0915105E AH=95 BEM = 8K0915105E MLA 180319JWV0
8K0915105F AH=110 BEM = 8K0915105F VA0 390729T0R3


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

[Dr GP]

You didn't have to recode?

Re-coding is not necessary. I ran a poll a while back. No one who did not re-code their battery ever reported having an issue. The Smart electrical system will adapt on its own. If you have a vag- com or similar and want to do it, go for it. If you don't, no problem.

[S4'ed]

If your car went into "Battery Protect" mode (because the battery is basically on its last legs), then you must do a recode to reset the system, to get it out of the protect mode.

[LmG7119]

I just changed my battery too...the original 10 year old was still fine, but I didn't want to live on borrowed time anymore.

From all I have read, and guessed, all the Battery Management system "cares" about is the AH capacity of the battery, I don't think it cares about the Cold Cranking Amp rating (DIN or SAE). So, if the new battery is the same AH rating as the old, then you can just change one digit of the original BEM code (the serial number portion) to reset the Battery Management System. But, if your new battery is a different AH rating than the old, there is more to change in the BEM coding. The system needs to know the new AH rating, in addition to the serial number change for the system reset. I don't think the system cares whether it is an AGM or wet cell type.

So, how do you code the AH rating of the battery? ...follow along...a little techno-trivia...
There are 3 versions of the Battery Energy Management system used during B8/B8.5 production, depending on the year. The versions are:
#1 has a separate Battery Management module which shows up in the VAGCOM module list as "Battery Regulation"
#2 is integrated into the CAN Gateway Module with "CAN" communication protocol
#3 is also integrated into the CAN Gateway module but uses the newer "UDS" protocol.

For version #1 and #2, I think the system gets the AH rating from the battery part number portion of the coding. The module must have a part number "lookup" table inside. So, if you change the AH rating, you need to change the part number to correspond with the new AH rating.
For version #3, there is a VCDS adaption field to enter the AH rating, labeled "Battery Size".

So, if you have version #1 or #2, here are some factory battery pns and AH ratings, with a BEM code, in case your new battery has no BEM code sticker, and is a different AH rating from the original battery. All "0" are zeros..not ohs...
8K0915105D AH=80 BEM = 8K0915105D MLA 190723N0A6
8K0915105E AH=95 BEM = 8K0915105E MLA 180319JWV0
8K0915105F AH=110 BEM = 8K0915105F VA0 390729T0R3


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

So for Champion AGM Battery, Group Size H8 Part #: H8-900CHAGM https://www.pepboys.com/champion-agm-battery-group-size-h8/product/2071679
what should I use?

[S4'ed]

That is a 90AH battery, so I would use the 95AH BEM code: 8K0915105E MLA 180319JWV0

[LmG7119]

That is a 90AH battery, so I would use the 95AH BEM code: 8K0915105E MLA 180319JWV0

Does it matter that it is made by Johnson Controls?

[S4'ed]

No

[LmG7119]

This is my current battery. 160236 I think it is H8 AGM

That H8 AGM is actually 95AH https://www.pepboys.com/car-batteries/c/19447/2013/AUDI/ALLROAD/4-1984%202.0L%20DOHC
I could go to H9 agm which is 100AH.

[lenf]

I purchased my 2012 S4 in August 2011 new. The car is still on the OEM original battery 8.5 years old. I don't have warning lights on my dash regarding the battery life. I live in central NJ, where winter can be cold and sommer hot. I'll change the battery when car will indicates it(maybe soon).

This is from 2012 Audi A4-S4 owners manual:

"Battery voltage:
Applies to vehicles: with battery voltage warning. If battery power drops into the range where it can limit the ability of the engine to start, this the (•i symbol appears in the instrument
cluster display with the following driver message battery charge low: Indicates charging by being driven. While t his driver notification is displayed, you have to be prepared for limited starting capability.
Driver message appears and goes out again. If this driver message appears after the ignition is turned on or while driving and it goes out again after a while, the battery has been adequately recharged.
Driver message appears and does not go out again. If this driver notification appears after the ignition is turned on or while driving and does not go out again, the battery's state of chargeis not in the optimal range. Starting capability is restricted. Have the battery checked at an authorized Audi dealer or other qualified workshop as soon as possible."

Also from owners manual after replacing battery:

"Your authorized Audi dealer must code the battery in the energy management system to enable you to use the energy management functions correctly after replacing the battery ."

[Dr GP]

I purchased my 2012 S4 in August 2011 new. The car is still on the OEM original battery 8.5 years old. I don't have warning lights on my dash regarding the battery life. I leave in central NJ, where winter can be cold and sommer hot. I'll change the battery when car will indicates it(maybe soon).

This is from 2012 Audi A4-S4 owners manual:

"Battery voltage:
Applies to vehicles: with battery voltage warning. If battery power drops into the range where it can limit the ability of the engine to start, this the (•i symbol appears in the instrument
cluster display with the following driver message battery charge low: Indicates charging by being driven. While t his driver notification is displayed, you have to be prepared for limited starting capability.
Driver message appears and goes out again. If this driver message appears after the ignition is turned on or while driving and it goes out again after a while, the battery has been adequately recharged.
Driver message appears and does not go out again. If this driver notification appears after the ignition is turned on or while driving and does not go out again, the battery's state of chargeis not in the optimal range. Starting capability is restricted. Have the battery checked at an authorized Audi dealer or other qualified workshop as soon as possible."

Also from owners manual after replacing battery:

"Your authorized Audi dealer must code the battery in the energy management system to enable you to use the energy management functions correctly after replacing the battery ."

You will need a new battery soon. No need to re- code if you replace it with an H8 battery. Electrical system will self adapt. H7 (not recommended) or H9 should re code

[lenf]

So, I decide to replace battery on my 2012 S4 which is almost 9 years running on OEM original battery.
I have no issue with original OEM battery, but don't want run into any.
So, I decide to purchase either:
1. AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA
or
2. AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H9, 950 CCA

Can any of you guys comment which one should be better to replace with?
P.S. My mechanic will re-code the battery for me for free, so I'll do re-coding regardless of the battery.
Thanks in advance.

[jsh139]

I don't have any experience with AGM batteries, but I used a lead acid Autocraft Gold H9 950 CCA and it worked great.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-h9-950-cca-95r-h9/2130016-P?searchTerm=Autocraft+Gold

[rnkjr]

So, I decide to replace battery on my 2012 S4 which is almost 9 years running on OEM original battery.
I have no issue with original OEM battery, but don't want run into any.
So, I decide to purchase either:
1. AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA
or
2. AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H9, 950 CCA

Can any of you guys comment which one should be better to replace with?
P.S. My mechanic will re-code the battery for me for free, so I'll do re-coding regardless of the battery.
Thanks in advance.

My 2013 take an H9. It is 15 1/2 inches long. The H8 is a couple inches shorter. I am not sure all take the same size.

[Pawan2013]

any a4/s4/a5/s5 can take a h8 or h9. some came with h8's and some with h9's from factory depending on region and year. my s4 came with an h9 and i replaced it with an h8 agm, because they didn't have any h9 agm's at the time.

[Midnight_Rider]

Autocraft gold going strong for a year now. I didn't have to recode. The car's MMI didn't turn on first, but had to start and stop few times, and did a hard reset (3 button).

If I have to do it again, I'd go with AGM platinum. they're $150 with the 45% discount code now.

[Slick_B8]

Autocraft gold going strong for a year now. I didn't have to recode. The car's MMI didn't turn on first, but had to start and stop few times, and did a hard reset (3 button).

If I have to do it again, I'd go with AGM platinum. they're $150 with the 45% discount code now.

What’s the 45% discount code? I’ve only seen the trt30 code lol

[Midnight_Rider]

c23 is 20% off - advance auto (3/5/2020)

RAKUTEN25 is 25% off - advance auto (3/5/2020)

And if you wait a while with your item in the basket with the tab open, the 45% coupon pops up. I think maybe it was Wednesday deal, since I can't see it now. Now I think of it, I should have written it down...

[lenf]

I replaced battery in my 2012 S4 B8 (was original flooded battery H8, 850CCA for 8.5 years since new. I haven't issue with this battery, replaced it just to be on the safe side) with AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, H8, 900 CCA from AAP with 25% off and $22 refund for the old battery, total $161 with tax. Start the engine normally like its nothing changed. No lights or warnings came out. I used battery tender to save all settings, so nothing's lost. Still I'm going to re-code the battery tomorrow.
AutoCraft H9 battery is 8 pounds heavier and larger than H8 battery. IMO, H8 is better for S4 B8.

[audistealth]

I replaced battery in my 2012 S4 B8 (was original flooded battery H8, 850CCA for 8.5 years since new. I haven't issue with this battery, replaced it just to be on the safe side) with AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, H8, 900 CCA from AAP with 25% off and $22 refund for the old battery, total $161 with tax. Start the engine normally like its nothing changed. No lights or warnings came out. I used battery tender to save all settings, so nothing's lost. Still I'm going to re-code the battery tomorrow.
AutoCraft H9 battery is 8 pounds heavier and larger than H8 battery. IMO, H8 is better for S4 B8.Do you have B&O sound? Mobile doesn't show signatures.

[Bshiau]

I just replaced my original battery (10 yrs old and still working), but like another member said, it was like living on borrowed time. I have B&O. Not sure if that makes a difference. But I got the AutoCraft Platinum AGM H9, 950 CCA. My core charge was only $5, so I’m going to keep it. I also have a VCDS cable so I did the coding.

[serafik]

Will an H7 850 battery from costco work for a b8.5 s4?

[lenf]

Do you have B&O sound? Mobile doesn't show signatures.

Yes I have B&O in my car. FYI B&O included with Prestige package by default.

[lenf]

Will an H7 850 battery from costco work for a b8.5 s4?

It probably will. But I'm not suggest you to replace with H7. Replace with H8 this way you may not need to re-code you battery. In any case, check your current battery and replace with whatever it may be(H7, H8 or H9). In my case the old battery was H8, 850 and I replaced it with H8; 900.

[Strong Man]

Did someone connect external 12v charger during the replacement process ?! so the car won't lose 12 volts and don't go to the full system reset.

[Bshiau]

Did someone connect external 12v charger during the replacement process ?! so the car won't lose 12 volts and don't go to the full system reset.

I hooked up a battery tender to the positive and negative posts under the hood. Not sure if I really needed to, but others have suggested it, and I already have one for my bike.

[rsfpc05]

Do you have B&O sound? Mobile doesn't show signatures.

Why does B&O matter? I have it and just replaced my battery without recoding

[Midnight_Rider]

Me too. No recode for autocraft gold. I have B&O - no issues on B8.5.

definitely do a hard reset on mmi. The VAGCOM mods remained intact - play vid, secret menu, etc.

[SSMOKE-U]

The battery has been acting up lately (advanced key working intermittently, hesitated starting and the length of time the radio was on while car was off had decreased dramatically) and the batteries' life had declined appreciably this week so much so, it wouldn't start when I went to wash it. I had to decide on a battery and find one to install.
As you know your choices vary a lot for this battery size (95R/ H9 in my case) between several brands and also between wet and AGM. Because they all weighed about the same- this was not a deciding factor. My choices on a Sunday were quite limited, so I couldn't really get a few exact prices, but made the assumption based on some web searches that AGM would be another $60-$100. I called the dealer the day before- they wanted close to $250 for the battery (list) and another $150 to install it. OUCH. I know the days of a "free battery install" in a car like this are over, but really?
I called a few mechanic buddies for their opinions: They agreed AGM was not worth is since this is not a hi vibration application and a wet battery would be perfect. Pep Boys had a Bosch for about $160 (after coupon), but one mech. friend said he has seen a lot of newer Bosch battery failures lately and suggested against it. I have had bad experiences lately with Interstate in other cars, so that was out. I like Deka batteries a lot, but I would have to wait until Monday to find one, plus if I ever needed service on it- they are 25 miles away from me.
I decided AGM, Bosch and OE were not worth the extra cost and I settled on buying one from Advance Auto. I am extremely glad I did too! I used a 30% off coupon and received another $20 reward perk back dropping the final cost to about $125. The best news is that the battery is made in Germany by Varta and came with the proper BEM code on the new battery. So you can disregard the info above on "tricking" your car to accept any BEM code you conjure up.....the Advance Auto is ready to go complete with a proper code! I drove to my local A/A to pick up my order...unfortunately the battery on their shelf was OVER 2 years old already. Buying a battery is like buying groceries- read your date codes!. I called around and found another store that had one in stock a little over a month old. Perfect!!
I got the battery installed and car coded with the proper BEM and now I am ready to enjoy the car again....and head to the car wash [:D]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/da4rHdoDvcRINNcVN3VGf5X_P4W-Gcy4DDupF1gy4orZaxyd4V0QCjp7bOP8GdsVRh3pfIhiG0Q-P9Acq1ONpfLQ_wDBQkF8F-8D39p65a_KLEuzMBbsbTFy-YSjC1io7QhZcIxYxRFN3twbH0F7MAkuFqo6OVAvQ5YXuue5b5g t5xBuyiyb77fD3u73UN0Xsnle2QZnpeGz9_sFzqj1cnQN8fPDC I01HbzsH71pc3_tLXVn7aVyKg4TuvWuuttqBKKpokF37pt1pYR tMUgLnDdE0I50wMznLJKLUxry3XqiB5KTQ04YOlbyo4DSt1zGx bgXYX0dCXBqE5vbkIoaC1fzWK8P2SPlqsznrfYRJcOvSyxn_nx WecqUxOl60gSV2Qwd4bUtxd701R0TErbduTQuxDamBITDuea3M _ebTHsGfuEWFIBzGFvK8y32RAbspdDjjGn6k_5y0ZNkhZY4v4N 0pie99wHyH3c2Ql6lYY_CzMMD4NPJKNf6hZXgaZM4UYV-mWRQMHUxKl0KNOxatq8EBlldFwBTvHq05uscTCN5a0FUEDaxym DR-_BEwVx3kyUUFw=w1698-h955-no

Advance Autocraft batteries aren't made by Varta, even the ones "Made in Germany". They are made by Clarios, formerly Johnson Controls. Not that it makes a big difference, but I didn't want there to be false info out there regarding manufacturer.

[jsh139]

Did someone connect external 12v charger during the replacement process ?! so the car won't lose 12 volts and don't go to the full system reset.

The car won't go into a full reset if it loses power. The only thing you'll lose is the clock and the Trip Computer 2 values.

[HobbesA5]

Just bumping this helpful thread to add a data point.

I just replaced the battery in my 2009 A5 after getting 11 years from the original battery. I went with the linked battery in this thread from Advance Auto. However, the batteries there are now labeled as DieHard instead of AutoCraft, so I assume they bought the brand name from Sears.

I got the DieHard Gold H9 (non-AGM) and it was a perfect match for my original battery. It had the same AH rating and was even manufactured by the same OEM in Germany (Varta). It also had a BEM code sticker on it so that I could properly code it with my VAG-COM.

I keep my cars a long time, but after getting 11 years from the original battery, I assume this one will last until I replace the car.

[killer_s4]

Funny enough I just replaced mine today with a diehard platinum agm h9 950CCA. Car starts way quicker than before.

[HobbesA5]

Car starts way quicker than before.
Same here.

[sacandagaD]

If you can find the Battery at Advance Auto, you'll usually get a coupon code for 15-20% when you shop online.

[beckmaster]

I hate it that I am asking here and can't figure this out on my own with searching. And, I have been searching for over 2 hours now.

I am in a 2013 B8.5.
My battery is the H9 size 850cc but it is 110Ah. I can not find a replacement battery with the same Ah outside of the $250 one from Audi. Am I just a dumbass who can't figure out how to do a decent search?

Advance Auto Parts has the H9 950cc that many here say is great but it is rated at 105Ah for the platinum and 100Ah for the gold. Does anyone have advice for me?

[HobbesA5]

I hate it that I am asking here and can't figure this out on my own with searching. And, I have been searching for over 2 hours now.

I am in a 2013 B8.5.
My battery is the H9 size 850cc but it is 110Ah. I can not find a replacement battery with the same Ah outside of the $250 one from Audi. Am I just a dumbass who can't figure out how to do a decent search?

Advance Auto Parts has the H9 950cc that many here say is great but it is rated at 105Ah for the platinum and 100Ah for the gold. Does anyone have advice for me?
I bought that exact battery a couple of months ago (see my earlier post). The DieHard Gold from Advance is 110 Ah. Cost with the frequently available coupon was $128.

199628

[beckmaster]

I bought that exact battery a couple of months ago (see my earlier post). The DieHard Gold from Advance is 110 Ah. Cost with the frequently available coupon was $128.

199628

That’s strange. When I look online it is 100Ah for the gold and 105 for the platinum

[Whitee]

I see a 10% off code, anyone know if there is still a 30% off anywhere?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[beckmaster]

After doing the battery replacement and coding in the new battery, I think the coding thing is garbage. My car was built in 2012 and the battery is brand new. There is no way a 2012 car will have any clue what I'm putting by the BEM code. I think it is just another scam to get you to use the dealer for something anyone can do themselves.

My original battery went pretty low and I had a few fault codes I had to erase. Everything works just fine.

[mavinwow]

I see a 10% off code, anyone know if there is still a 30% off anywhere?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of course when I need a battery, it seems like Advanced now caps the discount on batteries at 10%....

Seems like Costco now carries Interstate AGM H8 and H9 batteries as well which is relatively new.

[hardfive]

Of course when I need a battery, it seems like Advanced now caps the discount on batteries at 10%....

Seems like Costco now carries Interstate AGM H8 and H9 batteries as well which is relatively new.

I neeed to get a battery. You pull the trigger on anything or find any good deals? Im seeing the 10% cap on Advanced Auto's webpage as well.

[mavinwow]

I neeed to get a battery. You pull the trigger on anything or find any good deals? Im seeing the 10% cap on Advanced Auto's webpage as well.

Tis the season for coupons so will see, have not bought one yet. Will get an H8/H9 AGM from whoever has the best price between AutoZone, Advanced, O'reillys, Costco. Seems to be a lot of coupon restrictions all of a sudden. PepBoys probably has the best deal right now but I dont have one super close.

[hardfive]

Tis the season for coupons so will see, have not bought one yet. Will get an H8/H9 AGM from whoever has the best price between AutoZone, Advanced, O'reillys, Costco. Seems to be a lot of coupon restrictions all of a sudden. PepBoys probably has the best deal right now but I dont have one super close.Costco said there is a shortage. Mine sold out and doesent expect to get more until February. probably why coupons dried up.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Boostrules]

So it looks like after 9 plus years I have to replace my original battery. I like the Diehard gold 95R/H9 and if I use a battery tender to supply power thru the engine compartment while swapping batteries do I really need to "code" the battery? Have seen both opinions of do and don't but would like to ask of someone who didn't code, did they experience any issues after an extended period of time driving the car like that. Thanks in advance for any answers because I don't have vagcom and don't want to pay the stealership $150 to code if not necessary.

[stoked_S4]

Saw low battery icon on dash chime for the first time. Here is the read out from VAG taken 24 hrs after car was parked. Is my battery 78% aged or 78% life remaining?

215203

[alarum_78]

Just thought I would add I am on my OEM battery 2010 S4.. CRAZY!

[evanb]

Just thought I would add I am on my OEM battery 2010 S4.. CRAZY!

Get a new battery. SMFH [rolleyes]

[aleks09]

Get a new battery. SMFH [rolleyes]

Just checked mine - it turns out it's the original Varta battery that came with my Audi 2009. its manufacturing date is Jan 2009.
The car has been sitting in garage for over 6 months from March to September 2020. In Sept i went to start it and it did start after some hesitation. I drove the car a few hours that day and left it garage again for 2.5 months. Over Thanksgiving I went to start it and this time it didn't start - battery was dead. Using jumper cables didn't work, so I called roadside assistance. The car did start using professional jumpstarting tool.

Now I drive the car a few times a week and it seems to start fine. However, I feel like it's time to replace the battery anyways. How can I check if that's indeed the case? The roadside assistance person checked on his device, and it showed good voltage, but CCA at around 300 while the batteries original CCA was 520A. I went to a mechanic, and he checked voltage, and it was good, but he didn't have an option to check CCAs.

So, I would probably need to go to Auto Zone to let them check the battery just to make sure, but chances are it needs to be replaced. OEM battery from local Audi dealership is around $200, Varta 520A type, similar to what i have currently. I'm thinking of installing it myself. What is the minimum amount of tools do I need to do that? I don't feel like paying $200 for labor to replace a battery - I can probably do it myself, but I don't have the tools.

Btw, this forum is amazing! and this thread answered a lot of my questions already. Great to join : )

Also, my battery reads 110Ah 520A 850A - not sure what they all stand for

[sacandagaD]

Just checked mine - it turns out it's the original Varta battery that came with my Audi 2009. its manufacturing date is Jan 2009.
The car has been sitting in garage for over 6 months from March to September 2020. In Sept i went to start it and it did start after some hesitation. I drove the car a few hours that day and left it garage again for 2.5 months. Over Thanksgiving I went to start it and this time it didn't start - battery was dead. Using jumper cables didn't work, so I called roadside assistance. The car did start using professional jumpstarting tool.

Now I drive the car a few times a week and it seems to start fine. However, I feel like it's time to replace the battery anyways. How can I check if that's indeed the case? The roadside assistance person checked on his device, and it showed good voltage, but CCA at around 300 while the batteries original CCA was 520A. I went to a mechanic, and he checked voltage, and it was good, but he didn't have an option to check CCAs.

So, I would probably need to go to Auto Zone to let them check the battery just to make sure, but chances are it needs to be replaced. OEM battery from local Audi dealership is around $200, Varta 520A type, similar to what i have currently. I'm thinking of installing it myself. What is the minimum amount of tools do I need to do that? I don't feel like paying $200 for labor to replace a battery - I can probably do it myself, but I don't have the tools.

Btw, this forum is amazing! and this thread answered a lot of my questions already. Great to join : )

This should be very similar if not the same for our cars. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7wAE2ZyGK0

[aleks09]

This should be very similar if not the same for our cars. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7wAE2ZyGK0

Thanks! I'm thinking of getting this simple adjustable wrench - it should be enough, I would think?
https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-AT26VS-Finish-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B007C6Q018/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Adjustable+Wrench&qid=1610739392&sr=8-5

or is it too much work?

[sacandagaD]

Thanks! I'm thinking of getting this simple adjustable wrench - it should be enough, I would think?
https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-AT26VS-Finish-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B007C6Q018/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Adjustable+Wrench&qid=1610739392&sr=8-5

[wrench] lmao!

[JasonR]

Here’s an Advance Auto tip for those buying a battery there. Select PayPal at checkout and the core charge (deposit) is capped at $5. At least this was the case for me today.

This doesn’t actually save real money but it’s far less hassle than a $20 deposit.

I’m about to install the second replacement battery in the A4 B8. [wrench] She lives outside mostly these days so these things don’t last quite as long. But 4 years per battery isn’t unreasonable.

Thanks to the OP for this helpful thread and Audizine and Anthony for this awesome resource. And hi to my long lost friends here.

- JasonR

[gordo1]

Am new to Audizone but thought would ask about battery problems have been having recently. Over the past year and half its not been driven much, maybe once per week and had not been putting the battery tender on to keep it charged. Over the week the battery may discharge such that it won't even crank over. Latest drove week ago Sat for 1/2 hr or so when stopped at gas station battery dead when went to restart and needed to be jumped. Have now been charging with battery tender it but doesn't seem to be holding a charge.

Am guessing I either have sulfation build up in the battery (due to it not having been fully charged over that period) so it won't now hold a charge, or have excessive parasitic draw. or bad alternator. Am going to take to a shop today to have charging system checked and expect to find that its the battery even though only 18 mos old - when new I did not have it coded by the way.

If it turns out to be the battery as suspect and I get a new battery, is there anyone in Calgary with an OBD that wojuld be willing to dummy change the code (even if new battery doesn't have a code which will probably be the case). Just in case the problems I've had are related to the battery management system not working properly with that newish battery?

Thanks in advance

[mys4.org]

Am new to Audizone but thought would ask about battery problems have been having recently. Over the past year and half its not been driven much, maybe once per week and had not been putting the battery tender on to keep it charged. Over the week the battery may discharge such that it won't even crank over. Latest drove week ago Sat for 1/2 hr or so when stopped at gas station battery dead when went to restart and needed to be jumped. Have now been charging with battery tender it but doesn't seem to be holding a charge.

Am guessing I either have sulfation build up in the battery (due to it not having been fully charged over that period) so it won't now hold a charge, or have excessive parasitic draw. or bad alternator. Am going to take to a shop today to have charging system checked and expect to find that its the battery even though only 18 mos old - when new I did not have it coded by the way.

If it turns out to be the battery as suspect and I get a new battery, is there anyone in Calgary with an OBD that wojuld be willing to dummy change the code (even if new battery doesn't have a code which will probably be the case). Just in case the problems I've had are related to the battery management system not working properly with that newish battery?

Thanks in advance

Best to get a OBDeleven and you can do all of your own coding. I personally always have mine in the car (fit perfect in the sun glass holder) just in case. Good to know when a check engine light comes on if it it super serious or just something minor.

https://amzn.to/3jnWM84

[mahhdd]

I know that getting an AGM isn't required; but, I have exhaust installed so I'm thinking vibration resistance could help.

I'm about to get this Duralast 950 CCA AGM battery.
H9-AGM Group Size H9/LN6
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/p/duralast-platinum-agm-battery-h9-agm-group-size-h9-ln6-950-cca/229889_0_0

Reserve Capacity 140min
Weight 65.4lbs [o_o]
Amp Hour 100Ah

My car came with a 110 Ah battery, so when I recode it, which one of the 3 should do I recode it to?



8K0915105D AH=80 BEM = 8K0915105D MLA 190723N0A6
8K0915105E AH=95 BEM = 8K0915105E MLA 180319JWV0
8K0915105F AH=110 BEM = 8K0915105F VA0 390729T0R3


^^^ This came from a user who posted earlier ^^^

Should I code high at 110 or code low at 95?


Note: I'm not down at my car yet; but, I bet this will be answered once I figure out the protocol whether it's UDS or CAN. If it's CAN, I should be able to select via the dropdown.

[mahhdd]

Could also get the less porky, less powerful version for $20 more.

H8, 900 CCA (50 CCA less)

Length: 1.5 inch shorter in length
Reserve Capacity 160min (20 minutes more) - this number doesn't have as much importance per my research
Weight 58.7 lbs (6.7 lbs lighter)
Amp Hour 95 Ah (5Ah less)

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-900-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000%7CL3*15597

[Smac770]

If you're installing an H9 AGM, which would be PR J0P, then the part number would be 4L0 915 105 or 7P0 915 105 D. All the 8K0915105... part numbers are non-AGM batteries.

You have a type 8K (which you do as you're here), so the J533 is CAN.

[mahhdd]

All the 8K0915105... part numbers are non-AGM batteries.

You have a type 8K (which you do as you're here), so the J533 is CAN.

Not all heroes wear capes.

[mahhdd]

Alright, I'm coming from a 110Ah Moll battery (8K0 915 105 F). The battery was run down to several times for different reasons. It's probably died 10 times since I've had it, so I know I've worn it out. I likely need an adaptation more urgently than others.

I got a Duralast (Autozone) H9-AGM battery and is 950 CCA, 105 Ah. Fun times, there's no BEM sticker or any useful information on it that helps us reprogram.

Is the stock Moll battery NOT an AGM? The BEM code on the stock battery's sticker refers to the 8K0915105F code you said was not AGM.

I call AutoZone Battery support (1-888-774-1558), and the guy says, "I can send you an infograph with some information" and he sends me this:
https://i.imgur.com/UD2C6Cv.png

So... If the battery isn't AGM and he wants me to plug in the data seen above, it appears that the infograph ISN'T correct because the new battery is AGM. I called him back up and said, "this looks like it's for non-AGM batteries" and he said he'll have an account rep get back to me on monday.

That aside... From what I'm told in the previous post, this is how to accurately recode an AGM battery:

Select Control Module
61-Battery Regulation
Coding - 07
Drop Menu - Option #1 (add'l info appears)
Battery Coding Button
Part Number(10 or 11 digits): It looks like I should use 7P0915105D part number (I'm guessing)
Serial Number 10 digits): The only thing I could guess with here is what's on the bar code, which is 9346030421; but, it looks like that's more for Autozone's use than actually being useful product information.
Vendor: I'll look at the list once I get connected to my car.
OK -> Do It -> OK -> Close Controller, Go back

Can anyone confirm this is correct?

UPDATE: Apparently I need to do the 19-CAN Gateway route, which either uses CAN or UDS, which I'll have to figure out which protocol my car has later.

CAN Protocol option
Select Control Module
19-CAN Gateway
Verify protocol is CAN
[Long Adaptation-0A]
Select Battery Information / Replacement and it'll take you to Channel 004
[Read]

UDS Protocol option
Select Control Module
19-CAN Gateway
Verify protocol is CAN
[Adaptation - 10 ]
(1) Battery Adaptation-Size --> Drop down and select the correct value and DO IT
(2) Battery Adaptation-Manufacturer --> JCB (because Johnson Controls makes Duralast) --> Do IT
(3) Battery Adaptation-Serial Number --> serial number as shown on BEM code sticker... oh wait, there is none... I'll let you know what it takes.
NOTE: don't use Battery Adaptation 2 options

[Read]

[mahhdd]

If you're installing an H9 AGM, which would be PR J0P, then the part number would be 4L0 915 105 or 7P0 915 105 D. All the 8K0915105... part numbers are non-AGM batteries.

You have a type 8K (which you do as you're here), so the J533 is CAN.

It won't take either 4L0915105 or 7P0915105D as the part numbers.

My stock battery code is 8K0915105F MLA 141031VGTP

It will take 8K0915105F JCB x41031VGTP, I followed the Autozone instructions (although they don't look like they're for AGM batteries) and went with 8K0915105F JCB 241031VGTP (2 spaces in front of JCB)

[Smac770]

If the old battery was AGM, it would have a black casing instead of the clear casing. It will also have a sight glass on it. And if it was AGM, it should AGM in big letters on the stickers somewhere.

Stop/start is not relevant to US B8 products; no US B8 has stop/start (well, maybe the B8.5 Q5 2.0T hybrid, don't know, but not really relevant here). As such, the requirement for an AGM or an EPB (enhanced flooded) over a standard flooded is not mandatory.

I've yet to run across anyone with a B8 with a stock H9 AGM (PR-J0P). I've only seen people with the H9 flooded (110Ah, PR-J0Z). So I can only guess at what part number would be encoded in the adaptation for J0P. Those two part numbers are the only ones I've seen for a H9 AGM. There's the field replacement part number, the ones that are 000 915 105 xx, but my J533 wouldn't take 000915105CE when I tried to use that when I replaced mine. So I wouldn't think yours would take 000915105CF, but you could try it. You might have to hit up AoA for the correct part number to adapt an H9 AGM to an 8K J533.

There may not be one. In which case, the question becomes code it as an H8 AGM or an H9 flooded. AGM and flooded do not utilize the same charging profiles. I would think being coded as the right type would be more important than the right size, but maybe there's more to it than I forsee. Again, a question for AoA, which I can mostly guarantee they will fail to come through with a worthwhile answer (always a chance for anything, but ...).

[mahhdd]

If the old battery was AGM, it would have a black casing instead of the clear casing. It will also have a sight glass on it. And if it was AGM, it should AGM in big letters on the stickers somewhere.

Stop/start is not relevant to US B8 products; no US B8 has stop/start (well, maybe the B8.5 Q5 2.0T hybrid, don't know, but not really relevant here). As such, the requirement for an AGM or an EPB (enhanced flooded) over a standard flooded is not mandatory.

I've yet to run across anyone with a B8 with a stock H9 AGM (PR-J0P). I've only seen people with the H9 flooded (110Ah, PR-J0Z). So I can only guess at what part number would be encoded in the adaptation for J0P.

I wasn't around my battery - it is NOT an AGM (no indicators of such). I just assumed it came with one.



Those two part numbers are the only ones I've seen for a H9 AGM. There's the field replacement part number, the ones that are 000 915 105 xx, but my J533 wouldn't take 000915105CE when I tried to use that when I replaced mine. So I wouldn't think yours would take 000915105CF, but you could try it. You might have to hit up AoA for the correct part number to adapt an H9 AGM to an 8K J533.

There may not be one. In which case, the question becomes code it as an H8 AGM or an H9 flooded.

000915105CF seems to be a 105Ah, like mine... Since this is an AGM battery code, I'm tempted to use it.



AGM and flooded do not utilize the same charging profiles. I would think being coded as the right type would be more important than the right size, but maybe there's more to it than I forsee. Again, a question for AoA, which I can mostly guarantee they will fail to come through with a worthwhile answer (always a chance for anything, but ...).

Yep. This is what concerns me. I haven't driven the car yet, so I'm tempted to go back down there and try this new code you gave me.

[WurstS4]

I have a 2011 S4, build date 12/10 iirc.

On the battery is 8K0 915 105 F

It's the one that's 12V 110ah 520 A DIN 850 A.

Which exact Autozone AGM battery is it?

[Smac770]

It's not an AGM battery. It's a group 95R aka size H9 battery of the basic wet flood type.

[WurstS4]

It's not an AGM battery. It's a group 95R aka size H9 battery of the basic wet flood type.

True. I was asking what battery at Autozone would be the AGM equivalent, wasn’t seeing anything on there or Advance with the same specs.

[Smac770]

wet flood and AGM do not have the same specs for a given size. Thus why you need to update the adaptation value when you change battery types. Look for what AGM option they have for group 95R aka H9, though you could probably get away with a group 49 aka H8 AGM as well. H9 AGM would be around 105 Ah, H8 AGM would be around 92 Ah.

[WurstS4]

wet flood and AGM do not have the same specs for a given size. Thus why you need to update the adaptation value when you change battery types. Look for what AGM option they have for group 95R aka H9, though you could probably get away with a group 49 aka H8 AGM as well. H9 AGM would be around 105 Ah, H8 AGM would be around 92 Ah.

Thanks for the info, was in a rush and replaced it with OEM spec flooded. Bah!

[Corydms7]

I think the AGM batteries are for stop/start function (if I’m correct) due to the extra draw. I believe mine was regular flooded, but I put a $140 Walmart Everstart Maxx in there. Coming up on 2.5 years soon and all is good with the battery.

[Smac770]

AGM last longer (10+ years). Simply a better tech. wet flood are not good for stop/start because they don't handle the load/charging profile well. wet flood will be short lived in a stop/start config. There are newer "EFB", enhanced wet flood, more suitable for stop/start. But AGM is still better.

[Corydms7]

Although, I’ve personally never seen stop/start in an S4




AGM last longer (10+ years). Simply a better tech. wet flood are not good for stop/start because they don't handle the load/charging profile well. wet flood will be short lived in a stop/start config. There are newer "EFB", enhanced wet flood, more suitable for stop/start. But AGM is still better.

[Corydms7]

B8/B8.5 is too old now to have that. Wasn’t super common until like 2018/2019 I feel like. Not even all cars today come with it.




Although, I’ve personally never seen stop/start in an S4

[hardfive]

B8/B8.5 is too old now to have that. Wasn’t super common until like 2018/2019 I feel like. Not even all cars today come with it.Stop/start what does that refer to? I know little about batteries and reading the last 10 or so posts its not clear to me. Assuming this isnt start/stop ignition button.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Smac770]

Audi introduced stop/start in 2009 to the B8 platform (Pr-7L8). But it was never implemented on any US spec B8 products except B8.5 Q5 3.0T, TDI, and hybrid (but not the 2.0T).

"stop/start" is shutting off the engine when the car is not moving. I guess it would be more correct to call it automatic stop/restart. The constant discharging/recharging profile makes short life of wet flood batteries.

[hardfive]

Audi introduced stop/start in 2009 to the B8 platform (Pr-7L8). But it was never implemented on any US spec B8 products except B8.5 Q5 3.0T, TDI, and hybrid (but not the 2.0T).

"stop/start" is shutting off the engine when the car is not moving. I guess it would be more correct to call it automatic stop/restart. The constant discharging/recharging profile makes short life of wet flood batteries.Thanks for explaining. knew I was missing something.

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