Bridging Subs

[b5a4erik]

Hey all,

I've heard about bridging wubs, and I want to know what's right for my setup:

2000w amp with (2)+ and (2)- connections.
(2) 12's in a box, 2 ohms, the connection being (1)+ and (1)-.

Currently I have wire taking up (1)+ and (1)- spots on the amp going to the corresponding + and - inputs on the sub box.

Is it possible to bridge my subs considering there is only (1)+ and (1)- as for connection points at the sub box?

[14S4GWM]

Crutchfield has a ton of free usefull info. Read up and understand whats going on before you go to town. You need to know how low in ohms your amp can go and how many voice coils your subs have before doing anything. Post some amp and sub specs to get some help.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-qHUBBQBOhhF/learn/wiring-subwoofers-ohms.html

If your amp has two connection points the amp can be bridged for those two channels into 1 channel which will give you more power.

[b5a4erik]

Cool, I'll look more into my sub specs tomorrow, thanks man.

[chris164935]

You bridge an amplifier (IE, combine two channel outputs into one). For your subs, you can bridge the amplifier and wire the speakers in series or in parallel. Or, you could run each speaker to its own channel on the amplifier (this is what I'd recommend, unless your subwoofer box is already wired with only one positive (+) terminal and one negative (-) terminal).

[b5a4erik]

Thanks for the reply Chris,

My sub box does only have 1+ and 1- terminal.

Unbridgeable?

[14S4GWM]

Thanks for the reply Chris,

My sub box does only have 1+ and 1- terminal.

Unbridgeable?

Just cause your box only has one set doesn't mean your speaker has one set. Look at the sub itself or find model # and figure it out. It could be dual voice coil. You don't bridge the sub.

[b5a4erik]

Just cause your box only has one set doesn't mean your speaker has one set. Look at the sub itself or find model # and figure it out. It could be dual voice coil. You don't bridge the sub.

This is all very confusing to me haha:

This is the most relative sub box setup to mine: https://www.mtx.com/tne212d-mtx-car-subwoofer-enclosure (I also have two MTX 12's in one box with one input set.)
https://www.mtx.com/c/thumbs/0004207_terminator-tne212d-dual-12-inch-400w-rms-2-ohm-sealed-loaded-enclosure.jpeg
https://www.mtx.com/c/thumbs/0004208_terminator-tne212d-dual-12-inch-400w-rms-2-ohm-sealed-loaded-enclosure.jpeg
&
This is the amp I have:
http://www.triplesmileplus.com/_Electronics/11/Car_Amp_AudioBank_P2000.2_2Ch_2000W_a.jpg
http://www.triplesmileplus.com/_Electronics/11/Car_Amp_AudioBank_P2000.2_2Ch_2000W_b.jpg

Help please.

[14S4GWM]

From what I could find on that amp, well I couldn't really find a spec sheet on that specific amp but one with the same model number shows 2ohm stable. If your speakers are wired correctly like the link you showed you should be fine. You will want to use the bridged terminals on the amp and run those to the sub box. Do some reading before you move ahead please. You have a lot to learn before you go messing with the electrical side of your vehicle. That amp and subs might be the cheapest I have ever seen. When it comes to amps and speakers don't go cheap. I understand you gotta start somewhere though.

[b5a4erik]

From what I could find on that amp, well I couldn't really find a spec sheet on that specific amp but one with the same model number shows 2ohm stable. If your speakers are wired correctly like the link you showed you should be fine. You will want to use the bridged terminals on the amp and run those to the sub box. Do some reading before you move ahead please. You have a lot to learn before you go messing with the electrical side of your vehicle. That amp and subs might be the cheapest I have ever seen. When it comes to amps and speakers don't go cheap. I understand you gotta start somewhere though.

The link I showed myself or the link you showed me?

Yeah, I know they're not the greatest, I was gifted the subs so I ain't complainin'.

So basically what you're saying is that: I can run 4 total wires, 4 from the amp (2+,2- bridged) > merging into the sub box input, having 2 wires connecting to each individual corresponding input? (If the power load is safe)

[14S4GWM]

The link you showed.

You will run 2 wires from the amp marked bridged. 1+ and 1- to the same spots on tne sub box. When you bridge the amp you will only use two of the four connection points.

[Turbo_B5]

These guys helped me when I needed it. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/

[b5a4erik]

Like this?:

http://s4.postimg.org/e22mbwlq5/Sub_box_with_drawn_wires_bridged.jpg (http://postimage.org/) [/url]
http://s13.postimg.org/nmxd6f2sn/Amp_with_drawn_wires_bridged.jpg (http://postimage.org/) [url=http://postimage.org/]

[14S4GWM]

^Yup

[b5a4erik]

^Yup

Awesome, what's the real benefit of this over a regular configuration? I thought adding on two more wires is what added power.

Better sound, more power or what?


These guys helped me when I needed it. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/

Cool, thanks King_.

[14S4GWM]

Please use some of the links provided for you. You need to read up some. When you bridge two channels you are taking power from both and making more power into 1 channel. The lower the ohms the more power you get out of your amp. When wiring subs you can wire them to drop the ohm load on them so you can push more power to them. You want the ohms to match from the amp to the sub.

[b5a4erik]

Please use some of the links provided for you. You need to read up some. When you bridge two channels you are taking power from both and making more power into 1 channel. The lower the ohms the more power you get out of your amp. When wiring subs you can wire them to drop the ohm load on them so you can push more power to them. You want the ohms to match from the amp to the sub.

I plan on it.

From what I've read so far: I have a 2000w amp, so I'll be taking 2000w and sending it through 2ohms of resistance, so 1000w total to the subs, correct?

[14S4GWM]

In theory yes but your 2000 watts is probably peak power. RMS is the power number your looking for from the amp. That amp is pretty crappy so you won't be getting a ton of clean power out of it. The subs can't handle that much so turn the gain down on the amp first.

[b5a4erik]

I've found that the amp has an RMS of 500w... so this means it's safer then I previously thought to bridge? (Will still turn gain down)