To Dynamat or not to Dynamat with B&O sub replacement

[BKE]

I'm replacing the rear parcel shelf sub with an AE Dipole10-D8 driver; what would provide the best results, covering the shelf with Dynamat or leave it as is?

Thanks,

Brian

[14S4GWM]

From the enormous amount of talk on here about it I'd say do it.

[S4tranquility]

I did. I mean why not while you're in there? Do you really want to risk having to pull it all apart again if you decide you want it or the metal deck rattles?

[slacktide]

No. You should not use Dynamat. You should use KnoKnoise Kolossus instead. It costs the same $/sq ft as Dynamat, but it has double the thickness of both damping material and aluminum. You will need between 5 and 7 square feet for the package shelf, depending on how aggressive you are with coverage.

I am in the process of an audio upgrade, and really recommend that you thoroughly damp your front doors as well, even if you are keeping the stock speakers. I found that just adding the damping significantly helped the sound quality with the stock speakers, I'd guess by eliminating resonances and wasted energy. I was really impressed, and glad that I didn't install my new drivers before listening to the change that just adding damping made. 14 sq feet was enough to do both front doors really thoroughly. 60 bucks REALLY well spent, took about 2 hours per door.

There is a 60 page thread about testing dozens of different brands of damping materials here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/146403-sound-deadening-cld-testing.html

The executive summary is:

Best performance at any price: CLD Tiles http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld-tiles%E2%84%A2

Way better than Dynamat at same price: KnoKnoise Kolossus http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/sound-deadening/kno-knoise-kolossus-edition/

Same performance as Dynamat but cheaper: Alphadamp, Second Skin, Stinger Roadkill, Raamat. Memphis Mojo, regualar KnoKnoise.

It does nothing useful, so don't bother: Peel N Seal tape from Lowes.

It's the same thing as Peel N Seal tape, so don't bother: GTMat.

[skiracerblah]

Here's video of my 10" JL Sub flexing the rear deck. I have another brand of sound dampening material (I forget which i used), only on the top deck in this video. I eventually covered the bottom of the deck later down the road


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RnNgQS2IXo

[mgaman]

How's that sound inside the cabin Skiracer? Does that rattle come through into the back seat or audible at all? I've had my 10" replacement sub for months now and just haven't gotten around to doing it haha.

[PitchS4]

I did it without replacing the sub and it made a difference

[skiracerblah]

How's that sound inside the cabin Skiracer? Does that rattle come through into the back seat or audible at all? I've had my 10" replacement sub for months now and just haven't gotten around to doing it haha.

I still have some rattles, but its a significant improvement compared to doing nothing...

[skiracerblah]

Oh i remember now. I used a dampening material called Hushmat since it came in black color versus aluminum color that Dynamat uses. So, when you look into my trunk my rear deck doesn't look like its wrapped in aluminum foil

[mgaman]

Ahh gotcha - thanks!

[sturte30]

Yes do it.

[torinalth]

I would. one I was considering was Damplifier Pro, but hard to find. That is a winter project of mine to deaden the entire trunk area and all the doors.

[bpang1]

No. You should not use Dynamat. You should use KnoKnoise Kolossus instead. It costs the same $/sq ft as Dynamat, but it has double the thickness of both damping material and aluminum. You will need between 5 and 7 square feet for the package shelf, depending on how aggressive you are with coverage.

I am in the process of an audio upgrade, and really recommend that you thoroughly damp your front doors as well, even if you are keeping the stock speakers. I found that just adding the damping significantly helped the sound quality with the stock speakers, I'd guess by eliminating resonances and wasted energy. I was really impressed, and glad that I didn't install my new drivers before listening to the change that just adding damping made. 14 sq feet was enough to do both front doors really thoroughly. 60 bucks REALLY well spent, took about 2 hours per door.

There is a 60 page thread about testing dozens of different brands of damping materials here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/146403-sound-deadening-cld-testing.html

The executive summary is:

Best performance at any price: CLD Tiles http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld-tiles%E2%84%A2

Way better than Dynamat at same price: KnoKnoise Kolossus http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/sound-deadening/kno-knoise-kolossus-edition/

Same performance as Dynamat but cheaper: Alphadamp, Second Skin, Stinger Roadkill, Raamat. Memphis Mojo, regualar KnoKnoise.

It does nothing useful, so don't bother: Peel N Seal tape from Lowes.

It's the same thing as Peel N Seal tape, so don't bother: GTMat.

Agreed...I use Knukonceptz stuff as well and their products are awesome.

My install guy did the top and bottom of the deck...no flex with a Kicker Comp 10" sub in there.

[Zach@etektuning]

Another option i used on my personal car. (not a b8) was peel and seal from lowes same stuff slightly thinner way cheaper

http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_0__?productId=1018733

[slacktide]

Another option i used on my personal car. (not a b8) was peel and seal from lowes same stuff slightly thinner way cheaper

http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_0__?productId=1018733

This is a terrible, terrible, terrible idea.

1. It does not work. It add no damping whatsoever. Adding the additional mass just shifts the resonant frequency of the panel a little bit, but does absolutely nothing for amplitude. Refer to the thread at DIYMA.

2. The reason it does not work is that the black gooey stuff needs to be Butyl rubber to perform as a damping material. The black gooey stuff in peel-n-seal is bituminous asphalt.

3. Bituminous asphalt STINKS when it gets hot.

4. Bitumenous asphalt melts and drips when it gets hot.

I'm not pulling your leg, tons of people on DIYMA have talked about their Peel-N-Seal starting to ooze out of panels and drip all over their upholstery and carpeting after a few years of use.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2236773-post267.html

[Zach@etektuning]

This is a terrible, terrible, terrible idea.

1. It does not work. It add no damping whatsoever. Adding the additional mass just shifts the resonant frequency of the panel a little bit, but does absolutely nothing for amplitude. Refer to the thread at DIYMA.

2. The reason it does not work is that the black gooey stuff needs to be Butyl rubber to perform as a damping material. The black gooey stuff in peel-n-seal is bituminous asphalt.

3. Bituminous asphalt STINKS when it gets hot.

4. Bitumenous asphalt melts and drips when it gets hot.

I'm not pulling your leg, tons of people on DIYMA have talked about their Peel-N-Seal starting to ooze out of panels and drip all over their upholstery and carpeting after a few years of use.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2236773-post267.html

I only recommended it as it was thin. I never noticed a smell AT ALL. I currently use stinger throughout the whole car. its been in the car for 3+ years and the only place it "melted" was by the fuel pump when I took it out. I live in Vegas and have never had an issue with it. Now as for sound quality and true dampening yes use quality stuff.

I can post pictures of below the trunk floor and i will update later with pictures over the head liner when I decide to pull it again

Post pictures of your setup so people can use for future reference

[HeymyAudi]

I'm replacing the rear parcel shelf sub with an AE Dipole10-D8 driver; what would provide the best results, covering the shelf with Dynamat or leave it as is?

Thanks,

Brian

Let us know how you like that sub... I just read up on it and i see the RMS is really low.. Which is exactly what we need if using the stock amp

[BKE]

Let us know how you like that sub... I just read up on it and i see the RMS is really low.. Which is exactly what we need if using the stock amp

Finished the installation today, absolutely spectacular! The stock amp easily drives the sub regardless of the genre of music, I tried as much variety as I owned.
Not cheap but well worth it. I highly recommend AE subs.

[Cooper993]

how is the bass at lower volumes? I've read that some of the other replacements subs lack when the volume is lower than the B&O sub but sound better at higher volume.

[bpang1]

^^^It REALLY depends on the sub you buy. If you get one that requires a shit-ton of power to run it then you won't get much or even less bass than the stock POS B&O sub. However, most of the subs we have all been using have significantly lower power demands and are more efficient. Not to mention the fact that running a sub in free-air / infinite baffle means you need less power for it to be able to move the cone (no resistance from air inside a sealed box).

One thing that has been hard is finding a IB sub these days...there are VERY FEW. There are also a few that the manufacturers never rated for free-air that can still handle it. So you will have to either do a bunch of research or run the subs that you have seen other's use.

[BKE]

how is the bass at lower volumes? I've read that some of the other replacements subs lack when the volume is lower than the B&O sub but sound better at higher volume.

Excellent at low volumes. I'm not a crank-it-up person, but I do like to be able to follow an instrument so detail is very important to me.

One caveat, it is not plug and play; you will have to trim the opening of the parcel shelf for the sub to fit. With that said, all of the original sub mounting points remain so returning to stock will not be a significant exercise ( a little foam surround on the B&O sub and that's it).

[Cooper993]

Excellent at low volumes. I'm not a crank-it-up person, but I do like to be able to follow an instrument so detail is very important to me.

One caveat, it is not plug and play; you will have to trim the opening of the parcel shelf for the sub to fit. With that said, all of the original sub mounting points remain so returning to stock will not be a significant exercise ( a little foam surround on the B&O sub and that's it).

Now you have my interest. Few more questions:

1. What did you have to trim?
2. Did you use a trim ring?
3 How far down into the trunk does the sub extend? Or how much longer is the AE vs. the B&O?

[BKE]

Now you have my interest. Few more questions:

1. What did you have to trim?
The opening where the original B&O sub was mounted- the cut is off center from the stock location so it is between 1mm to 1/2 inch. The movement is towards the cabin and away from the window.
2. Did you use a trim ring?
Not needed, lays perfectly flat. However, I started down that path and made several different trim rings, but ended up using a thin bead of caulk to seal it in.
3 How far down into the trunk does the sub extend? Or how much longer is the AE vs. the B&O?
The stock sub is ~1.25 inches into the the trunk space. The AE is 5.5 inches into the trunk space and the magnet is the size of a coffee can. The sub weighs ~27 lbs on its own.

Looks like I imbedded my response in your messages.

[SEAY4]

Where did you purchase the AE Dipole10-Da subwoofer?

I looking todo this subwoofer replacement but having problems finding free air subwoofers. Any suggestions?

[BKE]

Where did you purchase the AE Dipole10-Da subwoofer?

I looking todo this subwoofer replacement but having problems finding free air subwoofers. Any suggestions?

I bought it direct from AE, http://aespeakers.com

[Cooper993]

The stock sub is ~1.25 inches into the the trunk space. The AE is 5.5 inches into the trunk space and the magnet is the size of a coffee can. The sub weighs ~27 lbs on its own.

Looks like I imbedded my response in your messages.

Is the sub's weight of 27 lbs. well supported by the rear shelf? The pictures I've seen looks like that shelf is rather thin and over time the bumps and weight could have an impact.

[BKE]

Is the sub's weight of 27 lbs. well supported by the rear shelf? The pictures I've seen looks like that shelf is rather thin and over time the bumps and weight could have an impact.

Possible, but there is a structural crossmember at the front and rear of the parcel shelf. I was looking into bolting an L bracket on either side to ensure rigidity.

[miked1978]

saved

[waxxonMTL]

theres several good info in this thread regarding sub choice and sound deadening. I used to be a SQ guy but it's been 5yr i havent did a build so some brand have changed.

I currenctly have about 10-15sq feet of sound deadening ( really forgot about the brand.. damn it.) but then read review about doing the front door too.. which stink because it seems front door needs about 15sq and read deck needs another 10 sq.

[Lamprey]

front door needs about 15sqIf you are using 15 sq ft of CLD tiles on your front door you WAY over doing it. But, that seems par for the course with car audio.

[waxxonMTL]

If you are using 15 sq ft of CLD tiles on your front door you WAY over doing it. But, that seems par for the course with car audio.

yeaaahhh !! i had 100sq feet in my race car LOL ! i cant honestly say i felt the difference between 1 layer and 2-3 layer in the door ! for real.. on the plus side, the door felt like an audi door when closed now , no more flimsy closed door sound lol