Bank 1: Camshaft (Intake) - P0011- Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanved) MIL ON

[mfdk]

I know, this has been posted before in this forum, but in most most cases the OP never report back if he/she got the problem fixed, so bare with me until i can explain everything that had happen. Some of you already seen couple of my threads with my project car that i have been working on. When i bought the car i knew it had some pretty serious problems but not in the large scale that i had to go through, but nevertheless i decided to go ahead with it and fix one problem at the time. When i bought the car it had following codes;

Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake) - P000A -008- Slow Response - After MIL Is ON, it would read; Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake) - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)

Boost Pressure Regulation - P0299 - 002- Control Range Not Reached

After taking apart, I realized that the car wasn't getting enough oil into camshaft area, was leaking after the car had been driven for more then 10 minutes, and it also sounded like diesel/rattle. So i took everything apart and found out a lot of problems, such as;

- Intake Camshaft worn badly by broken Cam Follower,

- Timing chain Housing scratched by previous messed up Cam Follower or broken HPFP piston,

- Timing chain looked good, so did the tensioner.

- Cam Journals worn a bit

So i decided to go ahead to replace the following parts;

- Intake Camshaft with latest Revision

- Replace Timing Chain Tensioner and Timing Chain Itself

- Replaced Head Gasket

- Did Vavle Carbon Clean up

Since the car wasn't getting much oil up into the camshaft, i decided to take the oil pan off to see whats really going on down there, of course with my good luck[mad] i found the oil pump has seized due to Sprocket bolt being broken off. The pickup oil tube was full of small metal shaving and so was the oil pan, also at the bottom of the oil pan i found what it looked like the tip of the HPFP piston. I decided to go ahead and inspect the pistons, connecting rods, the crank and everything else was in perfect shape, so i went ahead and bought a used Oil Pump balance shaft with the newer oil pickup tube taken off an Audi A4 B7 2008 with 60k miles on it.

After replacing the all these parts the car started running really good, the noise was gone, vibration was gone minus the Boost pressure problem and the smoke coming out of the exhaust system which was related to the Turbo. So i went ahead and bought a used K03 Turbo taken off an Audi A3 2.0T FSi.

Car started running great, no more smoke and no leaks, but I'm still getting the code: Bank 1: Camshaft (Intake) - P0011- Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanved) MIL ON, it will only come on if the car is driven, otherwise if i start the car and let it idle for hours and the code will not show up only after 30 miles of driving.

Before i replaced N205 Valve the code will be "Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake) - P000A -008- Slow Response " and once the Check engine light is on it goes to "Bank 1: Camshaft (Intake) - P0011- Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanved) MIL ON", so i went ahead and rechecked timing before replacing N205 Valve, everything checked out good, i used the Audi cam locking tool. I decided to by the N205 Valve hoping that will fix the problem based on some reading. Well, after installing the new Valve i no longer get "Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake), but i still get "Bank 1: Camshaft (Intake) - P0011- Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanved) MIL ON".

So my question really, is there anything else i could do to pinpoint this problem, and also i was reading on another where this guys s was saying that there is a way to measure the exhaust camshaft Actuator and other parts of the timing...?

I basically hit a wall and i hope you guys can share some info...!

Thanks

[typeslone]

I would triple check the timing, both crank to cam and cam to cam. I once had the intake cam one tooth off while still using the factory cam lock tool. I have no idea how it happened to this day. I would also suspect an issue with the cam actuator on the exhaust cam. I have seen them fail before.

[mfdk]

I would triple check the timing, both crank to cam and cam to cam. I once had the intake cam one tooth off while still using the factory cam lock tool. I have no idea how it happened to this day. I would also suspect an issue with the cam actuator on the exhaust cam. I have seen them fail before.

If your referring to Cam Actuator as the N205 Valve then i already replaced that with brand new OEM one, as i mentioned above; after changing the N205 Valve i was no longer getting the Slow Response code but i would get the Over-Advanced one.

Are there any marks as far where the camshafts should be other then what the repair manual shows, i mean i did mark both cams before removal unless it was already over advanced before i even did the marks, which that might explain why i had the code there in the first place.

What group in vagcom is to test exhaust and intake timing, i have been seen this being mentioned on other forums but no one mentions what group that is...!

[mfdk]

This is what i'm referring to;


Just got the car running after doing the timing chains and replacing the broken intermediate outer timing gear. However, I'm getting this code. It fails the cam adjuster test via vagcom for the intake cam. Says "sys/not ok" the exhaust one tests out ok. Is it the solenoid or the actual adjuster? Something to note, when I did the 12v test to the intake solenoid I couldn't hear any clicking and I even put my ear right on the valve cover you figure you would heard at least something. I have a parts motor which I today, pulled the VVT control unit and hook the 12v to that solenoid and that was clicking. I know either way I have to pull the upper timing cover off to get at everything but I was wondering if anyone else had this issue.

Trying to figure out what group that is...?

[typeslone]

I am referring to the actual gear that bolts to the back of the exhaust cam.

[typeslone]

As for the mechanical timing of the engine. If the crankshaft and the camshaft sprockets are timed correctly by the timing belt, then you know the exhaust cam is in the correct spot as the timing belt pulley is keyed and can only go one way. On the cam to cam timing the lock tool is really all you have to go by. I do remember seeing a timing mark on the chain sprocket of the intake cam as well as a timing notch on the exhaust cam adjuster. However I do not remember where they were supposed to face, and I see nothing listed in elsaweb about it. If my memory serves me right, the two marks on the chain sprockets should face each other though.

[mfdk]

I am referring to the actual gear that bolts to the back of the exhaust cam.

Thanks, I'm still trying to find out what group do i need to check both exhaust and intake adjuster test as mentioned above.

[mfdk]

As for the mechanical timing of the engine. If the crankshaft and the camshaft sprockets are timed correctly by the timing belt, then you know the exhaust cam is in the correct spot as the timing belt pulley is keyed and can only go one way. On the cam to cam timing the lock tool is really all you have to go by. I do remember seeing a timing mark on the chain sprocket of the intake cam as well as a timing notch on the exhaust cam adjuster. However I do not remember where they were supposed to face, and I see nothing listed in elsaweb about it. If my memory serves me right, the two marks on the chain sprockets should face each other though.

Yes the mechanical timing is spot on, rechecked many times and as you mentioned the exhaust cam front has the timing marks in combination with crankshaft mark so there is no way to get that wrong.

[mfdk]

Alright, after running the test on Group 094 i get Syst Not Ok.....What does that mean..?

[typeslone]

That means it didn't past the function test. What code did it throw after that?

[mfdk]

That means it didn't past the function test. What code did it throw after that?

Bank 1: Camshaft (Intake) - P0011- Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanved) MIL ON".

[typeslone]

Hmmmmmmmmmmm I would recheck the timing then if you haven't already. Rosstech mentions to check the fuel pump relay also, while I haven't seen that cause issues in an audi, I have seen multiple fsi powered vw's that had faulty fuel pump relays.

[Mike@PureMS]

On the timing chain housing, there are 3 seals that often go bad and should be replaced. They make sure that oil is being properly fed into the cam shaft, and the timing of the cams.
You can barely make them out on the photograph here. There are 3 very hard seals on that oil feed tube. If those seals are bad, you can get camshaft timing faults. The seals are very hard, and VERY fragile. Be very careful handling the new ones, and make sure you don't crack them.

PN is 06F198107A for those seals.

https://deutscheautoparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/1/0/10419.jpg

[mfdk]

Hmmmmmmmmmmm I would recheck the timing then if you haven't already. Rosstech mentions to check the fuel pump relay also, while I haven't seen that cause issues in an audi, I have seen multiple fsi powered vw's that had faulty fuel pump relays.

I'm going to check that out but i highly doubt it thats the problem.

Thanks

[mfdk]

On the timing chain housing, there are 3 seals that often go bad and should be replaced. They make sure that oil is being properly fed into the cam shaft, and the timing of the cams.
You can barely make them out on the photograph here. There are 3 very hard seals on that oil feed tube. If those seals are bad, you can get camshaft timing faults. The seals are very hard, and VERY fragile. Be very careful handling the new ones, and make sure you don't crack them.

PN is 06F198107A for those seals.

https://deutscheautoparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/1/0/10419.jpg

I will be taking it apart tonight, and i will report back on those seals. I remember when i changed the timing chain and its tensioer i did see one seal but cant remember seen the other two, maybe they are gone[:D]

Will report back once i get to the housing,

Thanks

[mfdk]

So after taking the timing chain Housing apart i found these, only two to be seen and they look in pretty bad shape. Could this be my issue, only time will tell, i will try to order them from the dealer if they have it available today and i will keep you guys update, hopefully i might be lucky this time[wrench]

http://i.imgur.com/itJwxp9.jpg?1

[typeslone]

where in NJ are you? I can run a locator on the part.

[typeslone]

On the timing chain housing, there are 3 seals that often go bad and should be replaced. They make sure that oil is being properly fed into the cam shaft, and the timing of the cams.
You can barely make them out on the photograph here. There are 3 very hard seals on that oil feed tube. If those seals are bad, you can get camshaft timing faults. The seals are very hard, and VERY fragile. Be very careful handling the new ones, and make sure you don't crack them.

PN is 06F198107A for those seals.


Every warranty cam job we do here at the dealer, we replace the whole timing chain housing. On customer pay jobs, we give them the option to change it, its a pricey part. We had one car a few years ago come back with faults right after a cam job, minuscule pieces from the cam follower ended up clogging one of the oil ports in that housing.

[mfdk]

where in NJ are you? I can run a locator on the part.

Actually I no longer reside in NJ, i moved to SC a year ago but just been lazy updating my profile. I had it ordered from the dealer and i should be getting it by Tues, $62 plus tax.

Thanks

[mfdk]

Every warranty cam job we do here at the dealer, we replace the whole timing chain housing. On customer pay jobs, we give them the option to change it, its a pricey part. We had one car a few years ago come back with faults right after a cam job, minuscule pieces from the cam follower ended up clogging one of the oil ports in that housing.

I'm hoping thats my issue one missing seal and two badly worn, finger crossed.

[Mike@PureMS]

With one missing you'll definitely have a proble. Just be careful putting the new ones on. You dont want them to crack. They should be just one piece with just a split to open them up

[mfdk]

With one missing you'll definitely have a proble. Just be careful putting the new ones on. You dont want them to crack. They should be just one piece with just a split to open them up

Thank you Mike, i will keep you guys updated once I receive the set on Tuesday.

[mfdk]

Update;

I got hold the of the Seal set today from the Dealer $52, and i managed to put everything back together, first thing i did i run the Cam adjuster test VagCom Group 094 and to my surprise it actually shows "System OK". [drool] Next thing, i took the car for a test drive, it definitely pulls better and don't feel anymore hesitation, drove it on the highway for at least 30 minutes, i had my vag com hooked up whilst i was driving to check for any codes and there were none. Just before i got home after 35 minutes of driving i got the following code;

000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)
P000A - 008 - Slow Response - Intermittent - No check Engine Light on Yet

So i took the car back on the road and after 10 minutes of driving the Check engine light shows up, with the same code just that it says MIL ON. The interesting part is that those seals definitely fixed my other code which i was getting all the time "Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake) - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)".

I cleared the code and took the car for another long test drive, this time i drove for almost an hour and no check engine light nor a pending code, came home turned the car off, got ready for work and i took the car with me on the way to work after 10 minutes check engine light pops up again with the same Code. Based on what i have done today it looks like once the code is cleared i can run the car all day without any codes until the car has been shut off and turned on again for another drive.

I read another thread that there was a TSB recall for this particular issue....?

"01-07-48 Update Programming, MIL ON, DTC P0011, P000A Stored in ECU Fault Memory (May 15, 2007)"

What you guys think..

Thanks a lot

[Mike@PureMS]

Have you tried cleaning out, or replacing the camshaft adjuster? It's the cylinder piece with the electrical connector that's bolted to that cam cover.

[mfdk]

Have you tried cleaning out, or replacing the camshaft adjuster? It's the cylinder piece with the electrical connector that's bolted to that cam cover.

Do you mean the N205 Valve, if so i replaced that with a new one.

[Mike@PureMS]

In the cam cover, there is a small filter screen. I would make sure you remove that screen and clean it out, along with the oiling port that's behind it. IN my photo above it's either at the 11o'clock or 5 o'clock position around the adjuster part. If you're not getting good oil flow into your N205 valve, that could cause the issue.

[FraggyA4]

When you installed the chain did you use the cam timing tool? If you did, did you rotate the exhaust cam forward about a tooth or two with the chain on to get it to lock into the set point? If you didn't this will explain the timing issue.

[mfdk]

In the cam cover, there is a small filter screen. I would make sure you remove that screen and clean it out, along with the oiling port that's behind it. IN my photo above it's either at the 11o'clock or 5 o'clock position around the adjuster part. If you're not getting good oil flow into your N205 valve, that could cause the issue.

I will definitely take a look at it whenever i get a chance this weekend.

Thanks

[mfdk]

When you installed the chain did you use the cam timing tool? If you did, did you rotate the exhaust cam forward about a tooth or two with the chain on to get it to lock into the set point? If you didn't this will explain the timing issue.

Yes i did, like i said before the exhaust sprocket timing mark lines up perfectly with crankshaft, so I'm definitely not out of sync there no....?

[typeslone]

In the cam cover, there is a small filter screen. I would make sure you remove that screen and clean it out, along with the oiling port that's behind it. IN my photo above it's either at the 11o'clock or 5 o'clock position around the adjuster part. If you're not getting good oil flow into your N205 valve, that could cause the issue.

Excellent point that Mike brought up, that screen is a very overlooked item. I've had to fix 2 different mk4 R32's that had cam to crank correlation faults due to a clogged oil screen in the cam adjuster housing.

[typeslone]

Yes i did, like i said before the exhaust sprocket timing mark lines up perfectly with crankshaft, so I'm definitely not out of sync there no....?

I'm going to say the base timing is probably good on your motor. I am too lazy to reread the post but did you double check the cam to cam timing again just in case?

[FraggyA4]

Yes i did, like i said before the exhaust sprocket timing mark lines up perfectly with crankshaft, so I'm definitely not out of sync there no....?

You can have belt timing correct but the cams be off relative to each other.

[audihere06]

Im having a similar problem problem. I keep getting a p0340 camshaft position sensor "a" circuit.


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[mfdk]

You can have belt timing correct but the cams be off relative to each other.

Well, correct me if I'm wrong but the exhaust cam can't be off if it lines up with the crankshaft mark, as for the intake cam then yes, i mean even when you use the Audi Tool to lock the cams, the intake still can be moved by quite a bit.

[mfdk]

I'm going to say the base timing is probably good on your motor. I am too lazy to reread the post but did you double check the cam to cam timing again just in case?

Well, the only way to check i suppose by visual inspection because the Audi Cam lock tool its almost useless as mentioned above.

[mfdk]

Excellent point that Mike brought up, that screen is a very overlooked item. I've had to fix 2 different mk4 R32's that had cam to crank correlation faults due to a clogged oil screen in the cam adjuster housing.

I'm away til next week, but just make sure i understand this, do any of you have the exact location of that, we are not talking about the timing chain tensioner...? I know that has a small mesh like filter screen on it....!

Thanks

[Seattle squash]

I had this on my RS4. I was told some screen fell off the sensor or close to the sensor. Changed sensor and screen, followed by oil change and good to go. It happened around 85k I think and was not that bad to fix, a few hundred bucks I think. Car ran like shit and check engine.


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[baldy]

Have you checked the timing with vagcom? I believe it's block 93. I had an issue when I replaced the cam position sensor (at the same time as the crank sensor and chain tensioner) where it was showing off 8-9 degrees due to a faulty sensor. After going through all the motions you did, I changed the sensor and all was back to normal.

[doctorul_doc]

I had a bank2 sensor A code after a head gasket replacement and I did used the cams/crank shafts lock tools for timing and vag-com showed me about 3-4 degrees offset on that sensor. I know I did my best to set timing right but I guess wasn't good enough even if was looking perfect to me. I end up paying $300 to have a shop to do the adjustment and they confirmed that one of cams was slightly off. My suggestion is to check timing again. I also had hard start at first try but fired up right away at second try because it adjust itself. Driving wasn't bad at all, not noticeable to have timing problems but was starting with errors and had check light on.

[FraggyA4]

Well, the only way to check i suppose by visual inspection because the Audi Cam lock tool its almost useless as mentioned above.

It's supposed to move that's how you set the timing by rotating the intake cam forward and locking the adjuster into the pin hole. This probably explains your timing issue. Because you didn't use the tool properly.

[mfdk]

Update,

I believe i found the culprit with my ongoing issue, after putting the new seals on the cam chain housing the car ran good and no check engine light for couple hours of driving which wasn't possible before, i was able to pass the test on Group 94. Then while driving i felt a performance loss for couple seconds and boom the check engine light was back with my original code prior to changing the seals, went to Group 094 and the test failed every time i ran "System Not Ok". So i went ahead and took the cam chain housing apart and found that my brand new seal was torn and so was the groove/ring that hold the seal, so then i inspected the Adjuster and sure enough it had already been deformed/ there are ring grooves damaged by the seals, which explain why my new seals were damaged after couple hours or so.

So now basically i have no choice but to replace the cam chain housing and the Adjuster, but i have a bigger problem the Adjuster bolt has stripped on me using the special socket that i bought from europaparts[headbang]

http://i.imgur.com/DbL7Fkw.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/P9EBsRo.jpg?1

[typeslone]

The adjuster bolt stripping is a very very common thing. Even here at the dealer with the factory tool we have issues with it. If we do a chain job here, we don't take the adjuster off because of that issue, chain goes on, then snake the intake cam in, repeat process until cam to cam timing is correct. My two recommendations are to either get a new exhaust cam, bolt and adjuster and install it that way or take out the exhaust cam, drill out the head of the bolt, chase the threads so they are good and install a new bolt and cam adjuster.

Obviously change the cam chain housing also.

[mfdk]

The adjuster bolt stripping is a very very common thing. Even here at the dealer with the factory tool we have issues with it. If we do a chain job here, we don't take the adjuster off because of that issue, chain goes on, then snake the intake cam in, repeat process until cam to cam timing is correct. My two recommendations are to either get a new exhaust cam, bolt and adjuster and install it that way or take out the exhaust cam, drill out the head of the bolt, chase the threads so they are good and install a new bolt and cam adjuster.

Obviously change the cam chain housing also.


I have already taken out the cylinder head so i can work easily on it, having to replace the exhaust cam is rather painfully which requires removal of cam cage/girdle. I have to find a way to remove that bolt, of course i would have to replace the Adjuster and the housing itself. Just want to make sure that the removal of the adjuster bolt its counter clockwise..?

Thanks

[FraggyA4]

I have already taken out the cylinder head so i can work easily on it, having to replace the exhaust cam is rather painfully which requires removal of cam cage/girdle. I have to find a way to remove that bolt, of course i would have to replace the Adjuster and the housing itself. Just want to make sure that the removal of the adjuster bolt its counter clockwise..?

Thanks

Lots of pressure and slow turning with a breaker bar is your best bet. All you need to do is get it broke free then it comes right out. I suggest clamping your head down to workshop table. Also you need to find a way to lock out the drive on the belt side of the cam. I stripped my first one but managed to get it removed still with using the above strategy. Good luck

[mfdk]

Lots of pressure and slow turning with a breaker bar is your best bet. All you need to do is get it broke free then it comes right out. I suggest clamping your head down to workshop table. Also you need to find a way to lock out the drive on the belt side of the cam. I stripped my first one but managed to get it removed still with using the above strategy. Good luck

So its counter-clockwise right..! i do not want to kill myself trying to go the opposite way.

Thanks

[typeslone]

So its counter-clockwise right..! i do not want to kill myself trying to go the opposite way.

Thanks


Yes counter clockwise to remove, its a normal bolt in that aspect. Once you get the first crack and it loosens up a bit, it will come right out.

[mfdk]

Thanks for confirming "typeslone",

Those two parts are pricy as hell, would it be worth it buying used ones, especially with the adjuster housing cover!

What you guys think, this should resolve that check engine light!

Thanks

[mfdk]

Alright, so i managed to take the bolt out by drilling a hole through it, then used a torx bit to drive it all the way in and woo la it came off.

Now i need to figure out what would be better, buying the repair set or buying the parts individually!

[typeslone]

Yeah those parts are very expensive. The cam adjuster itself I would buy new. The cam chain housing though, I would take my risk on a used one, just make sure you clean it out real good.

[mfdk]

Yeah those parts are very expensive. The cam adjuster itself I would buy new. The cam chain housing though, I would take my risk on a used one, just make sure you clean it out real good.

This guy is selling the cam cover for $69 on ebay, reduced the price from $89. The problem is that he only accepts money order or chaier check which niether of them are my cup of tea. He has great feedback though, i do not want to buy a cam cover that has the selonoid valve n205 on it, already have two of them.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291508248115&globalID=EBAY-US

[typeslone]

I may still have a good used one at home from when I did my cam and timing chain job on my personal car. I will check when I get out of work and let you know. If I do have it still, $50 shipped and its yours.

[mfdk]

I may still have a good used one at home from when I did my cam and timing chain job on my personal car. I will check when I get out of work and let you know. If I do have it still, $50 shipped and its yours.

Alright sounds good, let me know.

[typeslone]

Just checked my garage and attic. Looks like I don't have my old one anymore, must have used it on another car, sorry.


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[mfdk]

Just checked my garage and attic. Looks like I don't have my old one anymore, must have used it on another car, sorry.


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That's alright then, i will just order the one on eBay, its only $69, whats the worst that can happen..it looks in good shape and this guy has been on eBay for a decade with 100% positive feedback, got the Adjuster from europaparts.com

Thanks

[ktish]

That's alright then, i will just order the one on eBay, its only $69, whats the worst that can happen..it looks in good shape and this guy has been on eBay for a decade with 100% positive feedback, got the Adjuster from europaparts.com

Thanks

Would you be able to disassemble the old adjuster itself and take some pictures? The ones on the 4.2 BHF fail, hence why JHM came out with a kit to fix it. Curious to see if that problem exists here as well. My adjuster is on its way out at the moment as well.

[mfdk]

Would you be able to disassemble the old adjuster itself and take some pictures? The ones on the 4.2 BHF fail, hence why JHM came out with a kit to fix it. Curious to see if that problem exists here as well. My adjuster is on its way out at the moment as well.

I will, this weekend I'm planning to work on the car since i received all the parts needed to complete my job.

Stay tuned

[f4m0u5]

Just bought an 06 a4 with 140k miles from a dealer. On my way home what do u Know p0011 code. This looks like its guna be a bitch to diagnose and fix...

[mfdk]

Just bought an 06 a4 with 140k miles from a dealer. On my way home what do u Know p0011 code. This looks like its guna be a bitch to diagnose and fix...

First thing you need to do is visually inspect, Cam Follower, Intake Camshaft and HPFP, if all those turn out to be in good shape then you must test your N205 Valve before spending any money on anything else.

Let me know if you need anything.

[mfdk]

Update,

After receiving all my parts i managed to get everything ready for tomorrow, installed the new Adjuster and cleaned everything up ready to put it back together.

Damaged ajuster from the rings http://i.imgur.com/zmSS8AC.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/Dyy1Jb3.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/TjPfjSN.jpg?1

Damaged Housing cover http://i.imgur.com/rO9pKVr.jpg?1

Got a bargain with the housing cover from eBay $69[drool] http://i.imgur.com/1UXdi1D.jpg?1

new set up http://i.imgur.com/pOWs8MH.jpg?1

and this, is it normal the inside cat ...? http://i.imgur.com/o4WaXng.jpg?1

[f4m0u5]

Thank you very much!! I will be picking up a new cam folower and o ring today so ill start there.

I already tried to change oil with new oil and a little sea foam... ran car for half hour then drained oil and put new rotella t6 and a New bosch filter ( i read a collapsed filter or old oil or gunk has caused this code before) but the code came back on second drive.

My state has a lemon law and technicaally the dealer i bought the car off is responsible to fix my cel since i failed for inspection sticker. It just sucks the dealers a hour and a half away.....

[f4m0u5]

So went to do cam folower till i realized i cant pull out the pump without removing fuel lines. So now i need to waot for a 8mm tripple square.

And as far as testing the n205 for ohms. Can this be done with sensor in car and electrical connector Still plugged in then back probe it? Or should i remove the n205 from vehicle and look for 5-8 ohms?

[mfdk]

You should be able to do the test either way, and as far as the triple square bit why wait...? I got a set from AutoZone for $11.


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[f4m0u5]

No autozones had it, found it at a pepboys, said it was a 2 piece bit its single piece and its stuck inside the socket head. It should still work i also grabbed a 10mm ratchet wrench, ill takle it tomorow morning.

I back probed the n205 and i got 13 ohms with it still connected to the ecu, i cant get my probes in the sensor socket itself with it still screwed into the housing because of the angle its at. Can you check yours with it pluged into ecu with the known good sensor?

Thanks alot

[mfdk]

No autozones had it, found it at a pepboys, said it was a 2 piece bit its single piece and its stuck inside the socket head. It should still work i also grabbed a 10mm ratchet wrench, ill takle it tomorow morning.

I back probed the n205 and i got 13 ohms with it still connected to the ecu, i cant get my probes in the sensor socket itself with it still screwed into the housing because of the angle its at. Can you check yours with it pluged into ecu with the known good sensor?

Thanks alot

This is what the repair manual say, and by the looks of it yours is fine;

28-34
Checking solenoid valves for camshaft
adjustment electrically
- Disconnect harness connector from valve.
If resistance is not as specified:
- Using multimeter with auxiliary wires from VAG1594, measure
resistance across terminals on valve.
Specified value: 10-18 ohms
- Replace solenoid valve.

[f4m0u5]

Awsome, thabks alot youve been a great help, i replaced my cam folower today. It wasnt worn through bit it was badly worn. The lobe looked ok. And pump was alright.

Looks like im gunna have to open her up...

[mfdk]

Awsome, thabks alot youve been a great help, i replaced my cam folower today. It wasnt worn through bit it was badly worn. The lobe looked ok. And pump was alright.

Looks like im gunna have to open her up...

No worries mate, good luck and take things slowly but surely.[wrench]

[turbo944s2]

I installed the new cam adjuster seals on the cam adjuster housing. One of the rings doesnt spin around the shaft easily,is it going to be ok?

[Theiceman]

I installed the new cam adjuster seals on the cam adjuster housing. One of the rings doesnt spin around the shaft easily,is it going to be ok?

I would think so but I would investigate why .. so why did you replace these ? does the cam phaser itself look okay inside ?

its also interesting looking at these posts from over 3 years ago. the stuff " discovered" in the thread is just common knowledge now. I guess someone had to pave the way

[turbo944s2]

I would think so but I would investigate why .. so why did you replace these ? does the cam phaser itself look okay inside ?

its also interesting looking at these posts from over 3 years ago. the stuff " discovered" in the thread is just common knowledge now. I guess someone had to pave the way

Specified vs requested timing 3-9 degrees off around 3500 rpm, not throwing a DTC. Cam adjuster housing is newer less then 10k(screen is clean), Cam Adjuster Solenoid new less then 300 miles, Cam Adjuster newer less then 3000 miles. Timing is dead on. Oil pressure is over 100 psi at 3000 rpm. Only thing left is to check the rings. The OES rings seem to be thicker than the OEM rings, they spin freely in the two locations closest to the cam adjuster, the one closest to the fire wall doesnt spin freely.

[mfdk]

Update,

After receiving all my parts i managed to get everything ready for tomorrow, installed the new Adjuster and cleaned everything up ready to put it back together.

Damaged ajuster from the rings http://i.imgur.com/zmSS8AC.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/Dyy1Jb3.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/TjPfjSN.jpg?1

Damaged Housing cover http://i.imgur.com/rO9pKVr.jpg?1

Got a bargain with the housing cover from eBay $69[drool] http://i.imgur.com/1UXdi1D.jpg?1

new set up http://i.imgur.com/pOWs8MH.jpg?1

and this, is it normal the inside cat ...? http://i.imgur.com/o4WaXng.jpg?1

I'm sorry guys i thought i actually posted another update on this issue, i know its an old thread but its my responsibility to update this thread.

The problem was indeed as see above, the housing and its components inside where those rings sat. Another member contacted me early on today so i realized i never updated it thoroughly, although i sold the car a lot time ago but after that replacement everything worked perfectly, i still visit the forum but i move on to bmw e60 550i v8.

Thanks guys and hopefully this helps someone else.

[Theiceman]

great of you to update thanks.

[ohecht]

EDIT: My car is a B6 with the 1.8 engine...sorry for any confusion posting this here by mistake.

I have the same code and I'm trying to confirm everything I can do without pulling the engine (for the cam housing cover) or taking the subframe apart for the oil pan. On my car (2005), there are no performance issues at all...the car runs, sounds, and drives very well. I also see the terms "implausible signal" in the readout in case that makes a difference. I'd seen that code occasionally in scans before (maybe last year?) but the CEL never came on until a couple of months ago. The first time the CEL came on coincided with when the oil dipstick tube cracked and some pieces got into the oil pan, so I've been pursuing fixes mostly to do with oil flow so far. It started coming on rarely and then more frequently over time. It now comes on within about 30 miles of being reset and/or me cleaning out the area near the oil pump pickup.

In terms of modifications that could be related, I've had APR Stage1+ since just after buying the car a few years ago (could that be related if the timing settings are not standard?). A Fluidamper crank pulley installed a year ago. A Integrated Engineering timing belt kit (kevlar?) belt and mechanical belt tensioner...this was installed more than a year ago and well before any issues started popping up.

I replaced the cam chain tensioner and all associated seals and it had no impact. The small oil screen on the old part looked clear to me - I was expecting it to be visibly clogged.

I've also flushed the crankcase with a BG product once and repeatedly cleaned out the oil pan of small pieces of plastic that collect under the oil pump pickup. Probably 3-4 times so far as I'm trying to avoid dropping the oil pan if I don't have to. The first time (with the flush), the CEL stayed off for about 2 days, so it seemed to be related which is why I keep trying to dig out more pieces. Each time, I find and remove a few more pieces under the pickup but there are always a few more then next time 1-2 days later. They do seem to be getting smaller and there are fewer of them each time, though...

Is the N205 valve part of the new tensioner I installed? Searching for that part shows it as not fitting my car, and it looks like the solenoid that I replaced along with the tensioner.

I'm just looking for the most logical sequence of checks and/or repairs to do based on everyone else's experience here, since I'm a little confused by how this is happening with absolutely no performance issues, sounds, etc. The engine pulls strongly at all rpms and is quiet and smooth. It also feels "debris related", since the dipstick tube happened right before this all started. Are there other places I should look to clean or flush out debris?

Thanks in advance.

Olivier

[FatMongo]

Im experience the same P0011 code on my 2006 A4. I suspect it has to do with the cam adjuster/chain tensioner, but am in the beginning stages of diagnosing.

Subscribing to this thread.

[ohecht]

Whoops...I just realized this is the B7 forum...my car is a 2005 B6 with the 1.8 engine, so I probably have a lot of other parts than described here...I'll edit my last post to avoid confusing anyone other than me!

[Theiceman]

the 1.8T is a pretty damn solid engine .. not like our POS 2.0T
i would post in the correct forum , you should get lots of hits, if not here, on a VW forum that uses the same engine.