What went wrong with your B8 today?

[BoostedJoe]

I’m thinking it’s a hose leak, but I just don’t see signs of it... very weird

well you should remove the skid plates if you haven't already and see if there's any on there, if you're saying your losing a lot there would have to be signs of it, it can't go unnoticed in that sense

[Jet08]

Check the water line at the turbo, if there is a leak under pressure it will evaporate before pooling, there will be pink crystalisation around the banjo bolt on the turbocharger.

[SleeperCar]

well you should remove the skid plates if you haven't already and see if there's any on there, if you're saying your losing a lot there would have to be signs of it, it can't go unnoticed in that sense


Check the water line at the turbo, if there is a leak under pressure it will evaporate before pooling, there will be pink crystalisation around the banjo bolt on the turbocharger.

Thanks guys, I let my car sit in my garage for a few days and there was a puddle of coolant on floor, took skid plates off and there is coolant all over a few different hoses/parts.

I don’t have tools for pressure test so I’m going to try adding more coolant while car runs and see if I can spot the leak... I’m hoping it isn’t my radiator...

[MLA4]

I disagree, I’ve seen this happen multiple times to people. See my post a page back, happened to my b8.5. It’s more common than most would like to admit and failures happen across both VW and Audi cars that use the ea888 engine. Hopefully it’s not the case for you, because it’s an expensive repair bill.

Also see
Well it happened, Catastrophic engine failure at 60k miles.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=821642

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Well heres an update: cylinder one has no compression at all so im thinking rings got fucked. Going to need to buy a used motor; i still owe some $ on the car [emoji17]


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[ducati]

MLA4 sorry to hear what happen..you must balance if its worth spending $5000 for a motor replacement or just selling the car as is.

[base14]

Well heres an update: cylinder one has no compression at all so im thinking rings got fucked. Going to need to buy a used motor; i still owe some $ on the car [emoji17]


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I’m so sorry to hear that man, sucks. You might not need a whole engine tho, I’m rebuilding mine with new pistons. You could do the same as long as the cylinder walls are intact like mine were
My cylinder 2 piston carnage.
90389
90390
90391


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[MLA4]

I’m so sorry to hear that man, sucks. You might not need a whole engine tho, I’m rebuilding mine with new pistons. You could do the same as long as the cylinder walls are intact like mine were
My cylinder 2 piston carnage.
90389
90390
90391


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Yeah im trying to gauge the damage to cylinder walls; mechanic is telling me it is more labor intensive to pull the head than it is to pull the whole motor... id do the work myself but I am way too busy so id have to pay for labor.


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[JBAeroEngineer]

$pent $1400 on tires/service from Audi after I blew mine in the middle of the night road tripping to a wedding. 91826

[Smac770]

Replaced the alternator pulley after getting "alternator fault, battery not charging". Luckily, it happened only a mile or so away when returning home. Unluckily, it happened on a Thursday afternoon. Took the belt off and checked the pulley, free spinning in both directions with the rotor held in place. ECSTuning and FCPEuro where both days to even ship, and didn't have a Saturday delivery option anyway. EuropaParts, though, got it and the tool shipped out that day (Friday, I didn't order till Thurs night) USPS Express and it arrived Saturday and got the car back in working order. Damn, that thing is expensive, half the price of the whole alternator. Got the old one off and it was pretty clear it was shot. The engine had been really noisy the past few weeks, was thinking the chains, now I know what it was.

91850

Saw when unpacking the new one, the bearings are not supposed to be exposed like that. Guessing a few of them are missing too, wonder where they went.

[Blacksamurai00]

Aggressive downshift in panic situation = engine misfire + 9k overrev in 2013 Audi A4. Needs a brand new engine per Audi due to shavings in oil catch pan. Audi quoting 9k for a brand spanking new engine, installed. Trying to shop around at local mechanics to see what i can get for less. Trying to weigh the benefit of having a brand new dealer installed engine vs a used one. I didnt/dont plan to sell the car.

[BMWManiac]

Aggressive downshift in panic situation = engine misfire + 9k overrev in 2013 Audi A4. Needs a brand new engine per Audi due to shavings in oil catch pan. Audi quoting 9k for a brand spanking new engine, installed. Trying to shop around at local mechanics to see what i can get for less. Trying to weigh the benefit of having a brand new dealer installed engine vs a used one. I didnt/dont plan to sell the car.

Have the car towed to an independent shop. Did you bend any rods pistons? Is the block/head ok or are they trashed? An indy shop can build you your motor for probably less......

[Spawne32]

$pent $1400 on tires/service from Audi after I blew mine in the middle of the night road tripping to a wedding. 91826

run flats? $1400 is alot, but then again, if you went to Audi for it, i watched a guy get charged $380 dollars for one tire while i was in for service. lol

[JBAeroEngineer]

run flats? $1400 is alot, but then again, if you went to Audi for it, i watched a guy get charged $380 dollars for one tire while i was in for service. lolDWS06. Tires themselves were like $850. It was the reaming on install/balance/road force and alignment that I'm mad about.

[Blacksamurai00]

Have the car towed to an independent shop. Did you bend any rods pistons? Is the block/head ok or are they trashed? An indy shop can build you your motor for probably less......

Yeah that’s what I’m thinking too. They said the piston of cylinder 4 hit the spark plug, replacement is the only way to fix it apparently. I will have it towed to an independent shop though and see what they say. Terrified and the service manager is trying to have a new car sold to me. It’s insane.

[Smac770]

DWS06. Tires themselves were like $850. It was the reaming on install/balance/road force and alignment that I'm mad about.

I'm expecting about $1250 for similar at my dealership. They advertise $960 installed for four DWS06 or A/S 3+. Then alignment for $110, and taxes, and I'm sure there will be a fee to replace my TPMS sensors (one is dead, rest are 10yo, I bought them myself and will supply them). If I could find a place that did the rear alignment correctly, I'd consider elsewhere. But they all hand the sheet back with red for the rear camber. Guess adjusting that bolt on the top of the wheel hub is too much for them.

[Slick_B8]

$pent $1400 on tires/service from Audi after I blew mine in the middle of the night road tripping to a wedding. 91826
Did you ask for lube or straight raw? Lol

[JBAeroEngineer]

Did you ask for lube or straight raw? LolI live my life a 1/4 raw dawg at a time.

[DetRebel]

The outer b-pillar trim on the driver door split at the seem today. I think it was frozen to the door jab this morning.

Anyone know where I can get a high quality shine black replacement for cheap?


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[DUBDAWG]

The outer b-pillar trim on the driver door split at the seem today. I think it was frozen to the door jab this morning.

Anyone know where I can get a high quality shine black replacement for cheap?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Let me know too. High quality part here. Tried getting one off wrecked car at J Yard. Clowns only will sell if I bought whole door. Thumbs up!!

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[BrianVan]

1st IL snowfall.of season. Texted to wife braggin Quattro pwr got.me thru 8.miles of treacherous roads to train station. Parked perfect in a almost empty lot. Head was down texting and entering parking payment app. BOOM!!! Pickup truck snow plow backs into my front right corner. Mother F!!!!! Pretty dark at 615am so I didnt see it coming. How the F didnt he see me as he backed up. Car was minty mint too. 95208

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[bakedziti]

I hit a cone on the highway last night at about 75, and found out that I'll be needing a new front bumper cover this morning during my estimate.

I ordered all my replacement parts last night (grille; fog assemblies & bulbs; fog grilles; air shrouds) and thought I might be able to get away with bill that was less than $1,000. Well, that was until it was clear that the bumper needed to be replaced. Not that I have the fog grilles at this point, but all of the tab slots were totally destroyed with a nice tear on the left side further accentuated the need for a replacement. With the OEM carrying a small premium over a CAPA unit, I opted to spend the extra $150 to bring the total bill for the new bumper and paint to $1,276....there goes the winter mods after coming back from vacation this past Saturday and Christmas head. [headbang]

I keep reminding myself that this was the best option, because I only hit the cone due to a pickup truck mindlessly merging into my lane while I was sandwiched between 2 semi trucks; it really was the best option, but really blows on the wallet as I'd prefer to keep insurance out of the picture whenever possible.

[B G 8er]

I hit a cone on the highway last night at about 75, and found out that I'll be needing a new front bumper cover this morning during my estimate.

I ordered all my replacement parts last night (grille; fog assemblies & bulbs; fog grilles; air shrouds) and thought I might be able to get away with bill that was less than $1,000. Well, that was until it was clear that the bumper needed to be replaced. Not that I have the fog grilles at this point, but all of the tab slots were totally destroyed with a nice tear on the left side further accentuated the need for a replacement. With the OEM carrying a small premium over a CAPA unit, I opted to spend the extra $150 to bring the total bill for the new bumper and paint to $1,276....there goes the winter mods after coming back from vacation this past Saturday and Christmas head. [headbang]

I keep reminding myself that this was the best option, because I only hit the cone due to a pickup truck mindlessly merging into my lane while I was sandwiched between 2 semi trucks; it really was the best option, but really blows on the wallet as I'd prefer to keep insurance out of the picture whenever possible.

If you've been running the standard, non S-Line front bumper, would it have been worth it to upgrade? I really like the look of the RS4 replica bumper but believe fitment isn't up to par. It also delete's the fogs.

[bakedziti]

If you've been running the standard, non S-Line front bumper, would it have been worth it to upgrade? I really like the look of the RS4 replica bumper but believe fitment isn't up to par. It also delete's the fogs.

I gave this some thought, but in the end decided against it due to the fitment issues I've read about. Plus, I do use my fogs frequently. If we weren't so close to Christmas, I would have given the projector fogs another member posted recently a try; then again, it was really hard to beat the $46 set of TYC housings.

I also considered the s-line front bumper, but it was an additional $400 for a new one, and then I'd have to source the piece in front of the belly pan & the center splitter piece. I could have shopped around online, but wanted to get this nonsense over with due to my OCD. In a strange way, the timing worked out because I can steal the family Q5 while the snowbirds are in FL for the winter, and because I had already planned to use the empty garage this weekend to remove my front bumper to adjust my ECS FMIC.

I hope all has been well Brad!

[B G 8er]

I gave this some thought, but in the end decided against it due to the fitment issues I've read about. Plus, I do use my fogs frequently. If we weren't so close to Christmas, I would have given the projector fogs another member posted recently a try; then again, it was really hard to beat the $46 set of TYC housings.

I also considered the s-line front bumper, but it was an additional $400 for a new one, and then I'd have to source the piece in front of the belly pan & the center splitter piece. I could have shopped around online, but wanted to get this nonsense over with due to my OCD. In a strange way, the timing worked out because I can steal the family Q5 while the snowbirds are in FL for the winter, and because I had already planned to use the empty garage this weekend to remove my front bumper to adjust my ECS FMIC.

I hope all has been well Brad!

I've thought about these options as well for my own car but it would probably take an unfortunate incident like what happened to you to make it happen which I don't really want!

[bakedziti]

I've thought about these options as well for my own car but it would probably take an unfortunate incident like what happened to you to make it happen which I don't really want!

Agreed; I hope you don't have to deal with a situation like this.

...maybe this a sign not to look at changing platforms for a little while longer[confused]

[JBAeroEngineer]

Hopefully totalled. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/ad10383ab93f5936a26b6cd1f61ec912.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/68bf820cd74e9e77216084462784bd39.jpg

[Novarider]

Why would you hope your car is totaled? Ever been through that process? I have and it sucks. You won't be happy with the price they give you.

I had to fight insurance for over a year to get a halfway decent check after a woman pulled out in front of me and totaled my car and that's with it being her fault.

[JBAeroEngineer]

Why would you hope your car is totaled? Ever been through that process? I have and it sucks. You won't be happy with the price they give you.

I had to fight insurance for over a year to get a halfway decent check after a woman pulled out in front of me and totaled my car and that's with it being her fault.

Firm believer it's cursed. Has minimal value anyways, maybe $6k KBB.

[Slick_B8]

Firm believer it's cursed. Has minimal value anyways, maybe $6k KBB.

Id hope its totalled and just buy it back and fix with used parts lol

[B G 8er]

Agreed; I hope you don't have to deal with a situation like this.

...maybe this a sign not to look at changing platforms for a little while longer[confused]

No current intentions of selling the car for a while. We do have to pick up something new for the Golf Sportwagen though, since the lease is due in March. Considering a several options including a GTI, some SUVs. Test drove an 18 Q5 but I just couldn't get past the vague steering.

[B G 8er]

Hopefully totalled. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/ad10383ab93f5936a26b6cd1f61ec912.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/68bf820cd74e9e77216084462784bd39.jpg

Sorry man. I feel your pain. Really depends on the extent of damage to the frame and suspension as well as your insurance company. In California, the law states you can take it to a shop of your choice. So if you have this option, make sure you take it to a shop that does quality, legitimate work. I recently had an experience where my insurance company had me take one of our cars to a specific shop in cahoots with insurance companies for an estimate. Because of my knowledge, I could see how that shop, if allowed to do the work would definitley have to cut corners. No matter what, cars are never quite the same after being hit. If not considered totaled by your insurance, you could always try to have the repairs done and if not pleased with the car, sell it and move on. You will likely take an additional hit for diminished value though, especially if it's reported on Carfax.

[JBAeroEngineer]

Sorry man. I feel your pain. Really depends on the extent of damage to the frame and suspension as well as your insurance company. In California, the law states you can take it to a shop of your choice. So if you have this option, make sure you take it to a shop that does quality, legitimate work. I recently had an experience where my insurance company had me take one of our cars to a specific shop in cahoots with insurance companies for an estimate. Because of my knowledge, I could see how that shop, if allowed to do the work would definitley have to cut corners. No matter what, cars are never quite the same after being hit. If not considered totaled by your insurance, you could always try to have the repairs done and if not pleased with the car, sell it and move on. You will likely take an additional hit for diminished value though, especially if it's reported on Carfax.This isn't it's first, #4 on the books.

[B G 8er]

This isn't it's first, #4 on the books.

I'd dump it and move on then. My B8 has actually been rear ended twice though in stop and go traffic on LA freeways, so each time, really just did minor damage to the rear bumper cover. Distracted driving is only going to get worse with all the new tech coming out.

[bakedziti]

No current intentions of selling the car for a while. We do have to pick up something new for the Golf Sportwagen though, since the lease is due in March. Considering a several options including a GTI, some SUVs. Test drove an 18 Q5 but I just couldn't get past the vague steering.

It's interesting that you mention the Q5, because I've been browsing 14-16 SQ5s lately. I've come to the conclusion however that I am mainly interested in the SQ5 for the Lava Grey color while still obtaining a vehicle some additional power and space. As I got deeper down the rabbit hole, I began browsing 15-16 Macan Turbos, but I know I should be making far wiser decisions with that kind of money at this stage of my life.

Keep me updated on your new pick up when you decide.

[B G 8er]

It's interesting that you mention the Q5, because I've been browsing 14-16 SQ5s lately. I've come to the conclusion however that I am mainly interested in the SQ5 for the Lava Grey color while still obtaining a vehicle some additional power and space. As I got deeper down the rabbit hole, I began browsing 15-16 Macan Turbos, but I know I should be making far wiser decisions with that kind of money at this stage of my life.

Keep me updated on your new pick up when you decide.

I know we are going off topic here. I am not a huge fan of SUVs from a driving perspective. My Wife likes them, lol and she says it's her car. I do think SUVs are strong for utility. Macan would be the most engaging choice. I'm not a huge fan of the styling though. '18 X3 was a solid test drive, much more engaging than the GLC and Q5. F Pace Jag is tad large and cheap interior. Stelvio is nice but not sure about lease deals, reliability or resale value. I hear you. Financial priorities prevail. Definitely want a new stablemate that compliments the A4.

[A4 Centaur]

^ Me too! I am torn between another wagon like the new MB or BMW, which both have horrible interiors, or perhaps a CPO's Cayenne or Macan, which is too small. I am thinking possibly trying for a A7 with the competition package.

[Black Jack]

Not that anything went wrong today but my wife's 09 has had literally every issue that it seems these cars do; piston rings done, power steering hose changed, more PCV's than should ever be done, intake manifold cracked - but it's in a good place now.

Anyways, with oil consumption and quality always on the mind, I wanted to give the whole MolyGen thing a go and because internet, I try to share my experiences and insights for the next guy as I go. So here's the UV factor at work from the job done today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40f_BHcJwGM

[Depthcharge]

Got back to my car after parking at a sports bar for Saturday's college ball games to see that I had some paint transfer on the lower valence / bumper. Great. No info - so now looking into a paint applicator pen and a clear coat to touch up the scuff.

[A4x]

Firm believer it's cursed. Has minimal value anyways, maybe $6k KBB.

Dibs on those rims! Are they OEM?

JK. Sad to see a beautiful car smashed like that.

[Novarider]

Dibs on those rims! Are they OEM?

JK. Sad to see a beautiful car smashed like that.

You do see the one in the picture is bent right?

[JBAeroEngineer]

You do see the one in the picture is bent right?Cracked actually ;)

[K__bz]

battery is going, MMI shows it at 10%, weird thing is the car starts no problem as well as all my electronics are functioning quite well, I also have a dashcam running 24/7.

Any recommendations on battery up here in Canada?

Car is 2011 a4 avant

[gnxuser]

Did not do timely alignment and drove on low pressure; these are from factory so I am not too mad. [:)]
97249

[K__bz]

the battery, fucking hell 280 dollars for the avant battery compared to 180 for the regular a4

[Novarider]

the battery, fucking hell 280 dollars for the avant battery compared to 180 for the regular a4

This is the one I bought for my Avant

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-900-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P

[Pr1ce]

Wednesday I installed an ecs intake system... last night the ecs light came on and now every time I start the car the tpms blinks and stays on


So from installing an intake tmps and ecs light stay on.... any help would be great...

[JBAeroEngineer]

I'd dump it and move on then. My B8 has actually been rear ended twice though in stop and go traffic on LA freeways, so each time, really just did minor damage to the rear bumper cover. Distracted driving is only going to get worse with all the new tech coming out.
Why would you hope your car is totaled? Ever been through that process? I have and it sucks. You won't be happy with the price they give you.

I had to fight insurance for over a year to get a halfway decent check after a woman pulled out in front of me and totaled my car and that's with it being her fault.Got 11.5 k for a b8 A4, plus a couple k more for recent value added. I think I'm exuberant.

[CloseEncounters]

Did not do timely alignment and drove on low pressure; these are from factory so I am not too mad. [:)]
97249

You're putting yourself and others at risk running in this condition Son...you should be mad. And you'd better have a jack stand under that car. You're welcome !

[gnxuser]

You're putting yourself and others at risk running in this condition Son...you should be mad. And you'd better have a jack stand under that car. You're welcome !
Do you put your car on jack-stands when replacing the wheels? That seems to be an overkill.

[old guy]

Do you put your car on jack-stands when replacing the wheels? That seems to be an overkill.

I do (partially). I leave the car on the jack but place a jack stand underneath the side rail just in case. My last jack developed a nasty habit of slowly drifting down. Needless to say it has been replaced.

[A4Qwattro]

the battery, fucking hell 280 dollars for the avant battery compared to 180 for the regular a4

Lol that Audi Tax. $$Ka-ching$$

[Pr1ce]

Lol that Audi Tax. $$Ka-ching$$

Was having starting issues yesterday mjrnhbg and by the end of the day wouldn’t even unlock the doors no juice

Replaced the battery this morning to the tune of $76. I had 2 batteries left at the house for credit that helped

[DetRebel]

98573

[emoji31]🤦🏾*♂️

Everyone’s okay.
I got cut off by an elderly guy. Smh hopefully it’s not totaled I just got everything sorted out on this damn thing! WTH


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[JBAeroEngineer]

98573

[emoji31][emoji1747]*[emoji3603]

Everyone’s okay.
I got cut off by an elderly guy. Smh hopefully it’s not totaled I just got everything sorted out on this damn thing! WTH


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Looks similar to mine, glad you guys are ok. If there's any pillar damage they will total it.

[DetRebel]

Looks similar to mine, glad you guys are ok. If there's any pillar damage they will total it.

Yup damage to the frame it’s totaled according to the collision shop.

Do you have any tips to get extra cash from the insurance. I just did the brakes last weekend smh.

What car are you replacing it with??


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[JBAeroEngineer]

Yup damage to the frame it’s totaled according to the collision shop.

Do you have any tips to get extra cash from the insurance. I just did the brakes last weekend smh.

What car are you replacing it with??


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Submit all your receipts. Like I said above I got well above market for my 2010. Just be nice yet knowledgeable. I'm going with a b9

[DetRebel]

Submit all your receipts. Like I said above I got well above market for my 2010. Just be nice yet knowledgeable. I'm going with a b9

Awesome! This is my first time dealing with an accident or totaled car so that helps a ton. I just had the turbo, timing chains and cylinder head repaired as well.


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[ducati]

Insurance companies do not care what repairs you done to your car before the accident they only look at book replacement value.

[JBAeroEngineer]

Insurance companies do not care what repairs you done to your car before the accident they only look at book replacement value.Yeah, I got very little added value. Only 20% of what I submitted, and that went back a year

[DetRebel]

Yeah, I got very little added value. Only 20% of what I submitted, and that went back a year

I’m happy with 20% of my recent repairs and a Fair ACV. That’s enough for me to upgrade to an A6 c7


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[bakedziti]

My clutch went today. The car was ok today, up until I applied the accelorator on the highway today and watched the tach climb without any acceleration. I tried later in the evening and the wheels feel as if they get little to no power under normal throttle; interestingly, the car will not stall when releasing the throttle in 1st. The smell of burnt clutch is in the air tonight. And before you ask, yes, I know how to drive my car; I've only owned MTs.

Really poor timing with the holidays, but need to decide between a Sachs replacement w/ DMF or maybe some ECS offering. I'm hesitant with the ECS flywheels, but only because I'd rather go with a trusted name with the amount of labor that will be involved.

[Roadtrippn]

My clutch went today. The car was ok today, up until I applied the accelorator on the highway today and watched the tach climb without any acceleration. I tried later in the evening and the wheels feel as if they get little to no power under normal throttle; interestingly, the car will not stall when releasing the throttle in 1st. The smell of burnt clutch is in the air tonight. And before you ask, yes, I know how to drive my car; I've only owned MTs.

Really poor timing with the holidays, but need to decide between a Sachs replacement w/ DMF or maybe some ECS offering. I'm hesitant with the ECS flywheels, but only because I'd rather go with a trusted name with the amount of labor that will be involved.


I’ve had the ECS LWFW for a few years now, works flawlessly. Good luck in the shopping!

[bakedziti]

I’ve had the ECS LWFW for a few years now, works flawlessly. Good luck in the shopping!

Thank you, and thanks for the feedback. I ultimately ended up with the Sachs clutch and LUK DMF. The timing wasn't right to go to a stage II w/ LWFW setup, but I am really hoping I don't regret that in the future. I guess time will tell, but the replacement parts arrive tomorrow.

[Kolbenringe]

Aggressive downshift in panic situation = engine misfire + 9k overrev in 2013 Audi A4. Needs a brand new engine per Audi due to shavings in oil catch pan. Audi quoting 9k for a brand spanking new engine, installed. Trying to shop around at local mechanics to see what i can get for less. Trying to weigh the benefit of having a brand new dealer installed engine vs a used one. I didnt/dont plan to sell the car.

Updates?

[B G 8er]

Thank you, and thanks for the feedback. I ultimately ended up with the Sachs clutch and LUK DMF. The timing wasn't right to go to a stage II w/ LWFW setup, but I am really hoping I don't regret that in the future. I guess time will tell, but the replacement parts arrive tomorrow.

Curious to know how this project turns out. Please post your impressions of your new clutch setup.

[bakedziti]

Curious to know how this project turns out. Please post your impressions of your new clutch setup.

Will do. I only picked the Sachs clutch in this case, because I had some old store credit for Rock Auto, so the total for the DMF, pressure plate & hardware, pilot & throwout bearings, and guides was $921 before shipping. I sprung for the 2 day shipping to get everything hear ASAP, so the total was just over $1,000. The remaining one-time stretch bolts are on the way from ECS, and should be here next week. Admittedly however, I do not have time or heated facilities to complete the work, so I have a family friend doing everything for while he's off for the next two weeks for vacation. I should have the car back in early January, so I can report back then. My goal was for as close to stock feel as possible, with hopefully a little more tq capabilities, but without a ~$2k parts price tag.

[JeriQo]

Do you put your car on jack-stands when replacing the wheels? That seems to be an overkill.

so you dont kill yourself or have your car sitting flush on the ground with no wheels
those pneumatic floor jacks can give up on you.

[Rowadds]

Battery finally died. Looked thru a few threads. Seems like the dealership do not code batteries anymore once replaced. Is this true? Or did i read wrong?


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[Kolbenringe]

so you dont kill yourself or have your car sitting flush on the ground with no wheels
those pneumatic floor jacks can give up on you.

The springiness of pneumatic jacks is something that makes them endearing to me compared to the rigid incompressibility of hydraulic ones.

[audrobotic]

Battery finally died. Looked thru a few threads. Seems like the dealership do not code batteries anymore once replaced. Is this true? Or did i read wrong?

That sucks. How old was battery? You should get it coded. Dealer should code it if you buy it from them. If its a DIY youll need a friendly dealer, shop or vagcom. I recently got a yelp quote from a local reputable shop for $312 for Interstate with coding.

[DetRebel]

Yeah, I got very little added value. Only 20% of what I submitted, and that went back a year

Did you try getting them to raise your ACV?? I’m dealing with this CCC appraisal that’s comparing my car to vehicles that aren’t currently listed for sale in an attempt to low ball about $2-3k smh


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[JBAeroEngineer]

Did you try getting them to raise your ACV?? I’m dealing with this CCC appraisal that’s comparing my car to vehicles that aren’t currently listed for sale in an attempt to low ball about $2-3k smh


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I'm happy to send you my paperwork as long as you keep it to yourself. My actual cash value was much higher and my comps were like 2011/12 models for sale at dealerships or other places in DC/Baltimore

[DetRebel]

I'm happy to send you my paperwork as long as you keep it to yourself. My actual cash value was much higher and my comps were like 2011/12 models for sale at dealerships or other places in DC/Baltimore

I’d appreciate that. Please DM me


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[Betq]

Accidentally popped the ac vent blades out when I was removing the plastic trim cover around to wrap it. Almost lost the tiny pos metal pieces falling down inside the panel which would've meant I had do take off the entire lower panel. Took almost 3 1/2 hours to fit in these the metal pieces that connect all the blades vertically. Ended up popping the trim back in and decided to not wrap it at all. [headbang]
https://i.imgur.com/4kMURuF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AvUfr5q.jpg

[BrianVan]

98573

[emoji31]🤦🏾*♂️

Everyone’s okay.
I got cut off by an elderly guy. Smh hopefully it’s not totaled I just got everything sorted out on this damn thing! WTH


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Yup Same here. Wish I knew how to post pics.
Had a similar bender on same corner. Not as bad as yours. $8000 later and its as good as new. Yes...$8000. (from the other guys State Farm approved shop).
Headlight alone was $1000.

[JeriQo]

Accidentally popped the ac vent blades out when I was removing the plastic trim cover around to wrap it. Almost lost the tiny pos metal pieces falling down inside the panel which would've meant I had do take off the entire lower panel. Took almost 3 1/2 hours to fit in these the metal pieces that connect all the blades vertically. Ended up popping the trim back in and decided to not wrap it at all. [headbang]
https://i.imgur.com/4kMURuF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AvUfr5q.jpgI feel your pain. Same exact thing happened to me several years ago lol.

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[Nano909]

Yup Same here. Wish I knew how to post pics.
Had a similar bender on same corner. Not as bad as yours. $8000 later and its as good as new. Yes...$8000. (from the other guys State Farm approved shop).
Headlight alone was $1000.

Download the Tapatalk app, use Audizine through it and you'll be able to post pics easily.

[Novarider]

Download the Tapatalk app, use Audizine through it and you'll be able to post pics easily.

Audizine has its own Android app too.

[boasist]

Shifted into drive and then was told I didn't have any reverse gear and could keep driving....

We shall see what this becomes...

[A4x]

Shifted into drive and then was told I didn't have any reverse gear and could keep driving....

We shall see what this becomes...

Which transmission do you have?

[boasist]

Which transmission do you have?

ZF6

[WarmFuzzies]

What’s everyone’s methods for removing stripped bolts?

I have one that was an Allen bolt that’s now a nice round hole at my harmonic balancer.


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[Novarider]

What’s everyone’s methods for removing stripped bolts?

I have one that was an Allen bolt that’s now a nice round hole at my harmonic balancer.


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Is there a head you can get a bolt extractor on? If not These might work. Make sure you get right or left handed thread version depending on what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jhNpCbAB8ZCNE

[WarmFuzzies]

Oh yeah there’s still a head so it’s not terrible. And all other 3 are loose so it’s just this one


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[Novarider]

Does the head stick out or is it recessed?

Is it a smooth circle or does it have some of the shape left? Have you tried forcing a larger bit into it to see if that will work?

[WarmFuzzies]

There’s some ridge left but I’m guessing it’s pretty smooth — I’m gonna try one of my triple square specialized bits in there and see if I can hammer one in and turn.

If not I’ll give that amazon kit a try. Unfortunately it won’t accept the next size up hex bit

Update: hammering in hex bit and m6 bit didn’t work.

It’s the bottom bolt I’m dealing with

102120

Update as of this afternoon:

102235


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[mr_milo]

I'd try one of three things:
1. A bolt extractor as Novarider mentioned or possibly a bolt extractor like these: https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors I think of them more of a Nut extractor.
2. Use a cut-off wheel to cut a slot in the head and then spin it with a flat-head bit.
3. Use a drill bit the size of the threads and SLOWLY drill off the head. I had to do this with an axle bolt. I found once you break through even a bit and the tension is released the bolt will easily spin free. Make sure to get a carbide drill bit or you'll likely go through several.

[BMWManiac]

I would try these two things too:

1) Find a socket to hammer on it
2) Vice grips, then another set to turn those....apply pb blaster on there

[WarmFuzzies]

Success!!! Combination of heat (propane heater), drilling out the core with carbide bits, and an M8 triple square hammered in there!!

Thank you all! Definitely the biggest pain of my car wrenching life thus far

102302
102303


The threads are still in the crank gear but that’s ok since it needs to come out anyways and I can tackle it with hand tools on the bench (I have a leak at my front seal and have the specialist tool to remove the crankshaft bolt).

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[Theiceman]

There’s some ridge left but I’m guessing it’s pretty smooth — I’m gonna try one of my triple square specialized bits in there and see if I can hammer one in and turn.

If not I’ll give that amazon kit a try. Unfortunately it won’t accept the next size up hex bit

Update: hammering in hex bit and m6 bit didn’t work.

It’s the bottom bolt I’m dealing with

102120

Update as of this afternoon:

102235


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that's from a B8 ?? mine is one single bolt holding on the balancer .. is that a V6 ?

[WarmFuzzies]

It’s from a mk1 TT but since that forum is dead I wanted to solicit knowledge from here.

102419

Probably should’ve prefaced it but since it was removing a stubborn bolt figured no one would care.

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[Theiceman]

ah I see

thought it looked familiar, I just replaced a timing belt in a buddies TT last month .. what a huge pain in the ass that was working around that motor mount and tensioner.

[Theiceman]

It’s from a mk1 TT but since that forum is dead I wanted to solicit knowledge from here.

102419

Probably should’ve prefaced it but since it was removing a stubborn bolt figured no one would care.

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oh we care .. we have an eye for detail around here :). nice ride, my buddy says all the TT forums are dead here. he has to log on in forums in UK to get any responses. he doesn't ask me much coz I keep calling his Haldex fake four wheel drive lol

[Novarider]

oh we care .. we have an eye for detail around here :). nice ride, my buddy says all the TT forums are dead here. he has to log on in forums in UK to get any responses. he doesn't ask me much coz I keep calling his Haldex fake four wheel drive lol

Fake wheel drive
Fraud wheel drive
Faux wheel drive

All good names

[Slick_B8]

Can anyone get a wiring diagram for the b9 s4/s5 seats? Lol

[WarmFuzzies]

Fake wheel drive
Fraud wheel drive
Faux wheel drive

All good names

Someone has to save these fake wheel drive cars — That’s why I opted for a FWD.

At least it’s one less differential to keep filled


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[elscotto80]

Blew RMS, upper timing cover gasket, VC gasket and catch can gasket on VC. Emptied my catch can yesterday, but seems like there was some water that froze in the line last night. Going back to the factory PCV setup.

Happy Monday!

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[A4 Centaur]

Lost a right rear fender liner in the snow storm. Whole thing fell off after getting snow/ ice behind the liner. Took the end of the fuel line breather off with it.

[FlyPenFly]

Blew RMS, upper timing cover gasket, VC gasket and catch can gasket on VC. Emptied my catch can yesterday, but seems like there was some water that froze in the line last night. Going back to the factory PCV setup.

Happy Monday!

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Holy smokes.

[JBAeroEngineer]

Can anyone get a wiring diagram for the b9 s4/s5 seats? Lol

i have the ErWin PDFs, shoot me a PM

[Slick_B8]

i have the ErWin PDFs, shoot me a PM

Pm coming your way. Thank you

[BeerBrent]

Got a "low oil pressure" warning this morning on my way to work. Only came on when I was stopped, went away when I started driving again. Oil level is fine. UGH!!!

[JBAeroEngineer]

Got a "low oil pressure" warning this morning on my way to work. Only came on when I was stopped, went away when I started driving again. Oil level is fine. UGH!!!Cap or dipstick plug not sealed?

[BeerBrent]

Cap or dipstick plug not sealed?

Thanks. I just went out and checked and oil cap and dipstick cap are both on tightly. I moved my car and dont see any oil on the ground underneath where its parked. It runs fine, idles good.
Hoping its just a bad PCV. But I changed that to the updated PCV version a few months ago. I think I'm gonna try replacing the oil pressure sensor first.

[spin0rz]

Thanks. I just went out and checked and oil cap and dipstick cap are both on tightly. I moved my car and dont see any oil on the ground underneath where its parked. It runs fine, idles good.
Hoping its just a bad PCV. But I changed that to the updated PCV version a few months ago. I think I'm gonna try replacing the oil pressure sensor first.

Just get the oil pressure sensors changed. Both of them are 7-11$ bucks and the labor to do it isn't extensive, it literally takes 10 minutes. Mine went defective after 130,000km, literally bugged the crap out of me. It would start by giving me a warning, then go. Then come after each stop and go.

Edit: changing them resolved the issues.

May I ask, how often do you do your oil changes or how much are you into your current interval? Mine happened because my oil filter was a bit gunked from a bad oil change interval, so it screwed up my oil sensors.


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[BeerBrent]

Just get the oil pressure sensors changed. Both of them are 7-11$ bucks and the labor to do it isn't extensive, it literally takes 10 minutes. Mine went defective after 130,000km, literally bugged the crap out of me. It would start by giving me a warning, then go. Then come after each stop and go.

Edit: changing them resolved the issues.

May I ask, how often do you do your oil changes or how much are you into your current interval? Mine happened because my oil filter was a bit gunked from a bad oil change interval, so it screwed up my oil sensors.

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Thanks, definitely gonna try that first. There is 2 of them? I thought there was only 1, near the oil filter?
I change my oil about every 5,000 miles. I'm about 1,000 miles from needing to change the oil/filter again.

[Theiceman]

Got a "low oil pressure" warning this morning on my way to work. Only came on when I was stopped, went away when I started driving again. Oil level is fine. UGH!!!

oh crap .. thats usually a whole lot of bad news..
i know the b7s have no oil pressure readout , just a switch. are the b8s the same ??

[spin0rz]

Thanks, definitely gonna try that first. There is 2 of them? I thought there was only 1, near the oil filter?
I change my oil about every 5,000 miles. I'm about 1,000 miles from needing to change the oil/filter again.

I meant the oil pressure switch and sensor. I replaced both and they are both close by / low cost.


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[BeerBrent]

Thanks. I'll replace both the switch and the sender today and change the oil/filter. Fingers crossed it fixes it and its not something much more serious. [up]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/oil-pressure-sender-blue/06k919081/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/oil-pressure-switch-brown/038919081k/

[BeerBrent]

I meant the oil pressure switch and sensor. I replaced both and they are both close by / low cost.


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I see one right next to (kinda below) the oil filter, but where is the other one?

[planekiller1]

Really hard starts however car runs great once started. Usually hard starts when cold hardly ever happens warm any ideas? havent seen anythign posted about this before.
Has new plugs and coils, fuel pump and HPFP are both working at normed values of 4 Mpa and no missfires seen while logging. So thinking bad fuel but busted that since it runs so good once started.
Other thought is injectors?
Phase on cam is -1.87 so the timing chain is okay will be replacing that this coming winter since I'm approaching 80k and in march of '18 it was 0 degrees so looks like its quickly stretching.
No faults in engine or other modules that point to a condition that would cause the hard starts.

Also the whining from my transmission is getting louder which makes me think that the pump might need replacing at some point annoyingly there is no info on rebuilding these transmissions so looks like a shop might have to do that at around 100k miles.

With the car off it seems the low pressure fuel system is loosing pressure and goes down to 950Kpa when checking first thing in the morning before starting and if I let it sit and that climbs the car seems to start normally.
Any one know if there is a check valve that could have gone bad and the pump doesnt have time to prime the system before the car starts cold?
Any help with the hard starting problem would be appreciated. Will be replacing fuel filter next week maybe that is a problem.
Thanks,
Kurt

[Novarider]

Really hard starts however car runs great once started. Usually hard starts when cold hardly ever happens warm any ideas? havent seen anythign posted about this before.
Has new plugs and coils, fuel pump and HPFP are both working at normed values of 4 Mpa and no missfires seen while logging. So thinking bad fuel but busted that since it runs so good once started.
Other thought is injectors?
Phase on cam is -1.87 so the timing chain is okay will be replacing that this coming winter since I'm approaching 80k and in march of '18 it was 0 degrees so looks like its quickly stretching.
No faults in engine or other modules that point to a condition that would cause the hard starts.

Also the whining from my transmission is getting louder which makes me think that the pump might need replacing at some point annoyingly there is no info on rebuilding these transmissions so looks like a shop might have to do that at around 100k miles.

With the car off it seems the low pressure fuel system is loosing pressure and goes down to 950Kpa when checking first thing in the morning before starting and if I let it sit and that climbs the car seems to start normally.
Any one know if there is a check valve that could have gone bad and the pump doesnt have time to prime the system before the car starts cold?
Any help with the hard starting problem would be appreciated. Will be replacing fuel filter next week maybe that is a problem.
Thanks,
Kurt

Hard starts can be caused by leaky injectors. Leaky injectors can lead to all kinds of major issues. Get that figured out quick.

I've never heard of the zf8 trans whining. They are known as very good and tough transmissions. Have you checked the fluid? You have to get it to operating temp then pull a plug on the side of the trans.

[MostViciousFire]

same here

[Theiceman]

same here

okay that was random !!

[Adams-Allroad]

Hello

Has anyone tried this upgrade to there PVC?

RKX VW & Audi 2.0T TFSI Upgraded PCV valve repair kit

Please let me know

would be for 2013 B8.5 allroad engine pcma

[old guy]

That isn't really an upgrade. it is just a replacement for the pressure regulating diaphragm portion of the Crankcase ventilation assembly (erroneously referred to as the PCV valve). there are several other components that can also fail. There are two non return valves as well as the PCV combination valve that are part of the Crankcase ventilation assembly. Failure of any of those components can result in considerable expense. Such as pulling the transmission to replace the rear main seal that tends to blow out if any of the aforementioned components fail.

My advice would be to replace the complete Crankcase ventilation assembly with the latest OEM version of this assembly. It simply isn't worth the risk of failure.

http://i63.tinypic.com/5f2mu8.jpg

I already replaced my functioning Crankcase ventilation assembly with the latest AK version as a preventive measure. I also have a spare pressure regulating diaphragm in my trunk in case mine ever ruptures while on the road.

[Depthcharge]

Plus you can get OEA for $100! https://www.europaparts.com/pressure-control-valve-06h103495ak.html

[Kolbenringe]

Not sure about the latest versions, since I always understood that the latest version had a black top- my 2013 version was with the white top, I replaced it preventatively with a new one that was black, now I'm seeing white top ones online. I used a Vaico, which is the OE manufacturer (along with I think Hengst or someone else).

[old guy]

I'm pretty sure the black tops were the earlier versions. Latest version to the best of my knowledge is the white top 06H103495AK

[Kolbenringe]

I'm pretty sure the black tops were the earlier versions. Latest version to the best of my knowledge is the white top 06H103495AK

I definitely have a different variant, but it also has a very recent manufacturing date. It definitely appears that on the German market the low and high pressure versions are still being produced and sold side by side. What a mess this company is. Plus only the OE manufacturers are nice enough to mention that the oil separator has a 60k km replacement interval.

[old guy]

I definitely have a different variant, but it also has a very recent manufacturing date. It definitely appears that on the German market the low and high pressure versions are still being produced and sold side by side. What a mess this company is. Plus only the OE manufacturers are nice enough to mention that the oil separator has a 60k km replacement interval.

Wow!! What a confusing mess!!!

I did a (very) little bit of research on the Oil Separator PCV Valve Assembly and found the following:

There are multiple Black assemblies. They are interchangeable for A4 2.0T models from 2009 to 2014. They are as follows:
06H103495A
06H103495B
06H103495AB
06H103495AC
06H103495E
06H103495AH
I assume that the AH is the latest Black version.

There are three White versions. These cover model years 2009 through 2016.
06H103495J
06H103495AE
06H103495AK
From what I can discern the AK is the latest White version and is only to be used as a replacement for the earlier J and AE White versions.

My 2013 A5 came with a J version so I replaced it with an AK.

[Depthcharge]

I wrote in and they're suggesting the AE version, which is curious. 2014 A4 with CPMB. Edit, and verified that AK is the correct replacement for the parts AE and J.

[Kolbenringe]

Wow!! What a confusing mess!!!

I did a (very) little bit of research on the Oil Separator PCV Valve Assembly and found the following:

There are multiple Black assemblies. They are interchangeable for A4 2.0T models from 2009 to 2014. They are as follows:
06H103495A
06H103495B
06H103495AB
06H103495AC
06H103495E
06H103495AH
I assume that the AH is the latest Black version.

There are three White versions. These cover model years 2009 through 2016.
06H103495J
06H103495AE
06H103495AK
From what I can discern the AK is the latest White version and is only to be used as a replacement for the earlier J and AE White versions.

My 2013 A5 came with a J version so I replaced it with an AK.

What an absolute mess this is. Can anyone confirm the difference between the latest black version and the latest white version? This is what I have- the replacement for the AH. I don't know what number the takeoff was, but it was a 2013 variant, meaning it was replaced in 2013 and after when my car had practically no miles on it. I believe it to have been part of an early stage 1, since it was apparent my front crank seal was replaced (as it was crooked when I examined the timing chain cover).

https://www.autoteile.de/en/product/V10-2595

You will also note there is a 60000 there that indicates the change interval.

[old guy]

I just came across this TSB: Clicky click® (http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=181551) Apparently you can use any version of the black units as long as the OE unit was black. If you have a black (A, B, AB, AC, E, AH) and go with the white unit you need to to replace the front crank seal and perform a software change. If you have an OEM white (J or AE) you can upgrade to the AK version with no other changes.

[Kolbenringe]

Any idea of going from the white version to the black variant as I did? There were no performance issues since July, BUT it could be possible my oil consumption went up. No real way to tell.

This is an absolute mess because I ordered by VIN and a pair of number groups used in Germany to ID the car as well. There are no additional notes on how to handle this.

[old guy]

Any idea of going from the white version to the black variant as I did? There were no performance issues since July, BUT it could be possible my oil consumption went up. No real way to tell.

This is an absolute mess because I ordered by VIN and a pair of number groups used in Germany to ID the car as well. There are no additional notes on how to handle this.

I would say that if your crank seal was replaced you also had a software change along with the AE white valve. If you ordered by your VIN it would still show the OE black unit. I would go with the latest white AK unit.

[Kolbenringe]

I would say that if your crank seal was replaced you also had a software change along with the AE white valve. If you ordered by your VIN it would still show the OE black unit. I would go with the latest white AK unit.

I think I'll put the 2013 white back on, monitor oil consumption, then snipe an AK when the prices drop.

I have since replaced the timing set, so the front cover is a complete 2018 version. I want to assume that it's got a revised seal, but this is Audi. No one can assume logic with this company anymore.

[Kolbenringe]

Btw- how in the world do I find out if the factory-installed one was black or white? As mentioned, I have no documentation of this work being done, even though the car was purchased directly from Audi (a 2011 which was refurbished by the factory before going CPO). This was not in the long list of work performed. We bought it with 45k km. Absolutely nothing and it had tons of problems which were taken care of under warranty. Regardless, the software we have in it was reflashed completely in late 2017 after a combination instrument failure and replacement. The SA told me they had to spend a second day programming because some systems were not taking the coding, such as the trailer hitch (they were going by VIN and for some reason that wasn't in there, so they had to go category by category to reflash every system).

[Kolbenringe]

Ok, decided to put the take-off separator back on. The car is a 2011, the date of the white top one that was on the car when I bought it was 2013 and it is a J variant made by Hengst. I decided to replace it ahead of schedule in July, also in the hopes of having the latest variant that could reduce my oil consumption.

I replaced it with a black top AH variant, made by Vaico. Oil consumption went up, but it's difficult to imagine it was due to the oil separator and also due to not driving much. I noted higher consumption on a road trip to Croatia, but there were other issues, such as high temps, and a well-loaded car putting the engine through much more stress. Long story short, the new black one that I put on the engine in July is already broken. It had a film of oil on the outside of it where the black cap is (the one that would be black or white). However, I am glad I examined it upon removal: The red silicone rubber seal fell off and plugged the channel in the valve cover/cam girdle. The other thing is as I took it out, a huge amount of oil poured out of the port that connects to the hose that goes to the exhaust side of the block. This thing had to be clogged with oil. I pulled two of these before and no such issues. There was some oil film, but not that much. This was filled with oil and drainback was impeded.

I will see if I can get my money back, but probably not. Will then buy an Audi-branded AK.

I also topped the oil off so we'll see if the oil consumption is back to acceptable- highway use basically was no consumption, it only was high in city driving.

[Depthcharge]

I think it is dependent on what engine code you have and what production year.

From my digging, I have found that 2.0T from 2009-2011.5 [with engine codes CAEB, and CAED] had the older, black top. This earlier design used a solidly plastic intake manifold which was prone to failures. Later, the 2012-2016's (and on, apparently) [with engine codes CMPA, and CPMB] used a hybrid, plastic lower section with an aluminum upper section [with a white top]. The improved housing was to help vent distribution tubes along with the additional injector for ethanol [E85] fuels.

They've made tons of revisions, and apparently if you are swapping between the black top and white top without proper ECM and TCM coding that you are introducing an oil consumption issue for the engine. The main difference is that after 2012, the newer [White cap] PCV uses a lower pressure regulator for venting. For the 2009-2011.5 CAEB and CAED models that had oil consumption fixes, or piston replacements should have the newer white version installed and coded for -- otherwise stick to the black cap. This is just in reading, I have no way to confirm this.

Newest white cap [2012+, CMPA | CMPB AND oil consumption fixed cars]: 06H103495AK
Newest black cap [2009-2011.5, CAEB | CAED]: 06H103495AH

Kolbe - my main concern is since you've had so many issues, there's no way to know without diving deep into what they coded and changed since you got it CPO. If you already have a white cap, maybe just go make sure that the ECM and TCM are updated to the recent revision.

[Kolbenringe]

I think it is dependent on what engine code you have and what production year.

From my digging, I have found that 2.0T from 2009-2011.5 [with engine codes CAEB, and CAED] had the older, black top. This earlier design used a solidly plastic intake manifold which was prone to failures. Later, the 2012-2016's (and on, apparently) [with engine codes CMPA, and CPMB] used a hybrid, plastic lower section with an aluminum upper section [with a white top]. The improved housing was to help vent distribution tubes along with the additional injector for ethanol [E85] fuels.

They've made tons of revisions, and apparently if you are swapping between the black top and white top without proper ECM and TCM coding that you are introducing an oil consumption issue for the engine. The main difference is that after 2012, the newer [White cap] PCV uses a lower pressure regulator for venting. For the 2009-2011.5 CAEB and CAED models that had oil consumption fixes, or piston replacements should have the newer white version installed and coded for -- otherwise stick to the black cap. This is just in reading, I have no way to confirm this.

Newest white cap [2012+, CMPA | CMPB AND oil consumption fixed cars]: 06H103495AK
Newest black cap [2009-2011.5, CAEB | CAED]: 06H103495AH

Kolbe - my main concern is since you've had so many issues, there's no way to know without diving deep into what they coded and changed since you got it CPO. If you already have a white cap, maybe just go make sure that the ECM and TCM are updated to the recent revision.

ECM and TCM are 100% coded to the newest standards as of 2017. I had an Stronic rebuild right after the purchase and that gets a mandatory reprogramming (which made notable improvements in the behavior of the transmission). I can confirm that my last repair in 2017 for the combi instrument required a full reprogramming. In Germany, these are normal procedures.

The CPO is a bit different here, at least how I got my car- it has been well documented even down to arrival and release. The car war traded in with Audi, sent to Ingolstadt, it spent about a year there and was refurbished along the way, including stuff like fenders, paint, and so on. It was then sold to us via an Audi dealer. Until the Stronic rebuild and the instrument panel, it would have been a mystery regarding what was coded, but after the combination, it was fully updated to the 2017 standard which took six hours on its own. As for the stage 1, I confirmed during my timing set replacement that someone was already in there- there were painted on marks on the crank pulley and then I saw the front seal was crooked, so I got my explanation there- the car was serviced at the dealer, for whatever reason not documented in the paperwork given to me, got a new PCV and front seal and the programming.

My engine code is CDN (likely CDNC, but only the first three letters are printed).

There is one more thing that is confusing- is the white top truly a lower crankcase pressure version? There is a description for both the black and white that they are designed to "control bly by gases", which to me can only be done by raising the crankcase pressure and would also explain a change in the front seal. All of this is so mysterious and I really think Audi knew they were going to have to replace engines and were basically kicking cans down the road to remove some from the timeline of repairs.

[old guy]

Bothe the black and white versions keep the crankcase under vacuum except when the intake manifold is under boost. When under boost the valve shunts the pressure upstream of the turbo.

[Kolbenringe]

Bothe the black and white versions keep the crankcase under vacuum except when the intake manifold is under boost. When under boost the valve shunts the pressure upstream of the turbo.

This is very well known. There have been schematics and exploded views online discussing the functioning for ten years now or maybe more. However, your explanation is flawed. The oil separator also keeps vacuum in the crankcase under boost, which is why it is a two-part unit, in fact, which is evidenced by how it is connected (and made beyond obvious in the diagrams that give full operational explanations). One side is connected to the manifold and vents the crankcase off-boost directly into the intake manifold. The other side plumbs into the intake side of the turbo for when the manifold has positive pressure because the intake side of the turbo is where vacuum exists. In between those two parts is a shutoff for the manifold side when the system is under boost.

We're well past that and now discussing the finer operation because they have big differences between them in the pressures and the crossover points and oil consumption strategies. A post above also discussed constructional differences. Those are helpful. Trying to state the obvious not so much, nor is assuming people are stupid. We're not even talking about the basic operation of the oil separator. We're talking about something else. We're trying to figure out the pressures and the crossovers. Black and white models are listed for both A4 and A5 engines out here via vin and other searches. There appears to be little sense in this. We are trying to figure that out and you can see there are past threads with the same issues of people trying to figure out this mess Audi made.

[old guy]

I totally understand how the crankcase breathing system works I poorly worded my response. "When under boost the valve shunts the vacuum upstream of the turbo"

I was replying to your statement that I may have simply misunderstood.

"There is one more thing that is confusing- is the white top truly a lower crankcase pressure version? There is a description for both the black and white that they are designed to "control bly by gases", which to me can only be done by raising the crankcase pressure and would also explain a change in the front seal."

[Kolbenringe]

I totally understand how the crankcase breathing system works I poorly worded my response. "When under boost the valve shunts the vacuum upstream of the turbo"

I was replying to your statement that I may have simply misunderstood.

"There is one more thing that is confusing- is the white top truly a lower crankcase pressure version? There is a description for both the black and white that they are designed to "control bly by gases", which to me can only be done by raising the crankcase pressure and would also explain a change in the front seal."



Yeah, I think you've misunderstood. No biggie. The thing I also want to redundantly try to keep posts a bit corrected, for lack of a better term, as I sifted through the site and there's tons of confusion about these parts. The post with the part numbers and construction are steps in the right direction.

What I understand from online and Audi service in Germany is that the stage 1 utilized a "lower pressure" oil separator (also sometimes called a crankcase pressure regulator by Audi). "Lower pressure" is not so specific, since we don't know the characteristics, plus since the oil separator is partly mechanical and has multiple sections and functions, we don't know where the actual crossovers are between the "halves". Now what I've noted is that with the white one, my highway consumption was practically non-existent. Highway here is 150MPH, meaning heavy boost. My consumption in city was high. With the black top, I have nearly the opposite- low city consumption, high highway. This means this is not a simple thing to explain.

Plus, according to explanations, the regulation is also "to control blow by gasses" when referring to it as a "crankcase pressure regulator". The only way to limit blowby from the combustion chambers is to RAISE crankcase pressure, which would also raise oil consumption for Audis.

This whole thing from Audi is a complete mess. Different parts, no way to tell what to get if one bought used, different conditions they were trying to solve, and on and on. It's just a plain mess.

[Depthcharge]

All in good fun Kolbe and old guy - words can sometimes be perceived as snippy (especially without tone since we're here on the internet haha) but we're all here working it out together, cheers for that.

It'd be fun to take apart one of the white cap versions and check out the regulator they put in there to really try and understand their design decisions. I only dabble with engineering as my main job is in healthcare where I don't have the luxury to properly do some pressure testing of these parts and sadly, complex maintenance on the car. If someone with a bit of craftiness and a decent air compressor would take a go at breaking one down and seeing activation PSI / ATM and the overall pathing of the revision we could probably make sense of the white cap versus black cap differences.

Thinking about Kolbe's experience with the different versions is intriguing -- this is pure conjecture but... perhaps what is meant by a lower pressure regulator as the activation threshold for the valve to kick in versus having the system work harder to get to pressure before equilibrating with the valve. Maybe this would make sense for the higher city oil consumption since you're going from low-boost to high depending on driving conditions and situations, where that valve may be working frequently in overtime or through various changes in pressures. I'm wondering the new revision is also a set of staged pressure valves (at different PSI and different routing paths)... so under low boost the valve is closed to build pressure and as the car does work uses the pressure built to then vent the blow by gasses through another pressure valve and out through one the ventilation tubes.

[Kolbenringe]

All in good fun Kolbe and old guy - words can sometimes be perceived as snippy (especially without tone since we're here on the internet haha) but we're all here working it out together, cheers for that.

It'd be fun to take apart one of the white cap versions and check out the regulator they put in there to really try and understand their design decisions. I only dabble with engineering as my main job is in healthcare where I don't have the luxury to properly do some pressure testing of these parts and sadly, complex maintenance on the car. If someone with a bit of craftiness and a decent air compressor would take a go at breaking one down and seeing activation PSI / ATM and the overall pathing of the revision we could probably make sense of the white cap versus black cap differences.

Thinking about Kolbe's experience with the different versions is intriguing -- this is pure conjecture but... perhaps what is meant by a lower pressure regulator as the activation threshold for the valve to kick in versus having the system work harder to get to pressure before equilibrating with the valve. Maybe this would make sense for the higher city oil consumption since you're going from low-boost to high depending on driving conditions and situations, where that valve may be working frequently in overtime or through various changes in pressures. I'm wondering the new revision is also a set of staged pressure valves (at different PSI and different routing paths)... so under low boost the valve is closed to build pressure and as the car does work uses the pressure built to then vent the blow by gasses through another pressure valve and out through one the ventilation tubes.
Very possible and I wondered about this, too. The operation is likely more complex than just left vent/right vent. Then the oil circuits are a different story altogether. I think the most solid way to deal with this is to have the crankcase fitted with a pressure sensor and log the changes against boost and RPM and then one can see the differences between the AH and AK and what they are really doing. The software is likely mostly just so that there's no CEL code thrown from pneumato-mechanical behaviors of the valves.

All in all this is a mess. Multiple failure modes, lack of reliability, potential for expensive repairs if failing, compatibility issues, lack of documentation, and on and on.

Btw- I checked some videos on YT for people changing these and one guy changed his white one with a black one. Such a mess. It's a crankcase ventilation system. Only Audi could make it such a disaster.

[old guy]

It really isn't all that complicated. Refer to this post on the discussion of catch cans. Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/828512-Catch-can-diy?p=13314428&viewfull=1#post13314428)

The basic premise of the block breathing system is essentially the same as with the 1.8T. The difference is that Audi combined the PCV and PRV functions into the same unit and added a cyclone feature to help reduce the oil vapor consumption.

When the engine is under vacuum (which is probably over 90% of the time the engine is on) the flow is as follows: Purge air enters the block from the PCV combi valve. This air is being pulled after the MAF sensor but before the turbo inlet. Consequently the air is being metered but not compressed. It flows into the block, combines with the blowby gasses and is pulled into the breather/oil separator valve through the blowby duct. As it leaves the blowby duct it goes through a cyclone feature to help separate out the oil vapours. From there it runs through the PRV (pressure regulating valve) and into the intake manifold.

When the engine is under boost it gets greatly simplified. There are non-return valves that will close as soon as the manifold goes from vacuum to boost. Consequently any blowby pressure building in the block will push through the PCV combi valve and into the turbo inlet. Since there is no longer any purge air entering the block there is little flow going into the turbo inlet side. The only flow will be whatever blowby gasses are entering the block. If your engine is healthy this will be minimal.

The vacuum/pressure forces on the block are controlled by these two valves. the PRV (pressure regulating valve) which is the large diaphragm on the top of the block breather/oil separator valve and the PCV combi valve. The PCV combi valve controls the air into the block and the PRV controls the vacuum going out of the block. So by adjusting the PRV diaphragm spring and/or the PCV bleeder on the PCV combi valve you can control the amount of vacuum maintained on the block.

For example, when you are driving and let of the gas in gear you are reaching close to absolute vacuum in the intake manifold. That isn't something that you want being pulled on your engine block. What happens is that the PRV diaphragm pulls down and limits the vacuum to the force required to compress the spring under the diaphragm. When steady state driving the vacuum is considerably less and the block purge flow is being controlled by the amount of air that flows through the PCV combi valve.

From all of this my speculation is that the differences between the black and white block breather/oil separator valves is the overall relationship between the PRV and PCV valve incorporated into the breather. By changing their relationships you can change the amount of vacuum being applied to the block whenever the intake isn't under a boost condition.

[Depthcharge]

Ah okay so this makes a lot more sense then. So theoretically, we should have less chemical vapor deposition and gunk, post- combustion. Pretty clever using a scroll (or cyclone feature as you said) valve to separate out the vapor. Also, the staged valves make sense here, so in total there are 4 valves? 1 bi-directional and 3 x one way valves.

Your example helped to put it into perspective, so lowering the activation pressure would increase purging efficiency when moving from high to low boost situations (or stop and go / city travel)..and really any vacuum to pressurized situation. Hence, the need to change values in the ECM.

[old guy]

Ah okay so this makes a lot more sense then. So theoretically, we should have less chemical vapor deposition and gunk, post- combustion. Pretty clever using a scroll (or cyclone feature as you said) valve to separate out the vapor. Also, the staged valves make sense here, so in total there are 4 valves? 1 bi-directional and 3 x one way valves.

Your example helped to put it into perspective, so lowering the activation pressure would increase purging efficiency when moving from high to low boost situations (or stop and go / city travel)..and really any vacuum to pressurized situation. Hence, the need to change values in the ECM.

There are four valves in play. The PCV and PRV that control the amount of purge air going through the block when under vacuum. Then there are two non-return valves. These are essentially check valves that prevent boost pressure from entering the block. Boost pressure never reaches the PRV since there is a non-return valve to stop the boost pressure.

The amount of purge air can vary depending upon the amount of vacuum in the intake manifold. the PCV/PRV valves regulate the amount of vacuum and volume of flow. It doesn't really matter if the volume goes up or down since the air being utilized in the block purge has already been metered through the MAF sensor. The ECU knows how much air has gone through the MAF sensor and adjusts accordingly.

EDIT: Something else to keep in mind is that under normal driving conditions you are only under boost conditions a very small amount of time. Even when accelerating from a stop light or making a gentle pass on the highway you will remain under a vacuum condition in the intake manifold. If you have a boost gauge or something like TorquePro you can observe how little time you are actually boosting.

[Kolbenringe]

By the way, the rubber seal on the PCV Combo valve is what fell off. Its well was full of oil, too. No idea how much of a difference that makes, but it looks like it has to seal somehow.

[old guy]

By the way, the rubber seal on the PCV Combo valve is what fell off. Its well was full of oil, too. No idea how much of a difference that makes, but it looks like it has to seal somehow.

Without that seal the PCV combi valve would be letting more purge air in than by design. I would expect that condition to result in excessive purge air and consequently an increase in oil consumption.

[Kolbenringe]

Without that seal the PCV combi valve would be letting more purge air in than by design. I would expect that condition to result in excessive purge air and consequently an increase in oil consumption.

Figured as much. This is such a mess. It's one part with multiple parts built in, I get that, but it is nonetheless diminishing returns based on the sometimes disasterous effects it has on the RMS, for instance, as well as multiple failure modes. They really should have handled the crankcase ventilation with porting of the cover and then remote actuation of stages. It's another example of ingenuity on Audi's part with diminishing returns and their typical disasterous results. So here I am thinking since August that my engine crept into the "oelfresser" category and needed to go to Croatia for a lower-cost rebuild. Meanwhile, I am very certain this was the cause. AK is ordered and on the way.

[Peachypeach]

Got my first cel Feb 16th. Car is around 63XXX. The idle was pretty high and the start up was rough
Went to Autozone which was actually pretty funny. These were the codes

109104

Funny part was the guy wanted me to buy Seafoam to see if it fixed the problem...anyways [rolleyes]
Bough a new PCV from esctuning, but I agree even with searching the forums finding the right part number was nearly impossible. This was the best piece of information I found on the balck top vs the white top "The old style one will lower crankcase vacuum and could damage the rear crankshaft oil seal as the ecm has been reflashed for the updated pcv you just removed and crankcase vacuum will be incorrect, also it will increase oil consumption." From a guy who says hes an Audi tech.

I had a question about my ignition coil though, wondering if anyone could give me some insight if this is considered normal? Is it ok to have some oil on it, thanks in advance!

109105

[old guy]

Oil on the coil pack indicates that the valve cover is leaking. With that being said, what you have there is minimal and I wouldn't worry about. None of your codes indicate a misfire.

[ians]

When the idling is below 1000rpm during the moment the car start in cold engine, is it something wrong? Usually it is in the 1300 rpm range and then will dropped to ~800rpm in around a minute. But recently on cold day, the idling is 800rpm when the engine start. It seems like a symptom of something wrong. And my 11 A4 just have oil consumption stage 2 fix, turbo + waterpump + thermostat replaced recently. And it is ~100k km now.

[old guy]

When the idling is below 1000rpm during the moment the car start in cold engine, is it something wrong? Usually it is in the 1300 rpm range and then will dropped to ~800rpm in around a minute. But recently on cold day, the idling is 800rpm when the engine start. It seems like a symptom of something wrong. And my 11 A4 just have oil consumption stage 2 fix, turbo + waterpump + thermostat replaced recently. And it is ~100k km now.

I know that is normal for the 1.8T and assume it's the same thing for the 2.0T. Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/318368-Cold-start-normal-idle?p=4377462&viewfull=1#post4377462)

[A4x]

When the idling is below 1000rpm during the moment the car start in cold engine, is it something wrong? Usually it is in the 1300 rpm range and then will dropped to ~800rpm in around a minute. But recently on cold day, the idling is 800rpm when the engine start. It seems like a symptom of something wrong. And my 11 A4 just have oil consumption stage 2 fix, turbo + waterpump + thermostat replaced recently. And it is ~100k km now.

I've noticed this happens sometimes only when it is REALLY cold out. Normally the start will hoold the RPM at 1200 for a minute or so, but if the temperature is really cold it just goes to 800.

[ians]

I've noticed this happens sometimes only when it is REALLY cold out. Normally the start will hoold the RPM at 1200 for a minute or so, but if the temperature is really cold it just goes to 800.Last time it happened, my turbo blow up after 500 miles

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[A4x]

Last time it happened, my turbo blow up after 500 miles


My OEM turbo already blew up 3 years ago [:D] (ok not blown-up, but classic wastegate problem).

This cold start idle has nothing to do with the turbo. I've owned the car for 5 years and it has done it since day one when temps are below -10 C approximately.

[ricob5s4]

Today my alarm kept going off. Vag com shows rear glass break sensors on a 09 avant. Anyone know where exactly they are located? A part number? Thanks in advance

[DG7]

Suffered a major coolant leak today. I had no choice but to drive to the stealership since it was the closest option.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190302/773057736fa087f664618801c670c77c.jpg

[ians]

My OEM turbo already blew up 3 years ago [:D] (ok not blown-up, but classic wastegate problem).

This cold start idle has nothing to do with the turbo. I've owned the car for 5 years and it has done it since day one when temps are below -10 C approximately.Then sounds like a coincidence. Usually even -20℃, my cold idle still stay ~1200rpm. But the pass few days, it drop to 800rpm when it is under -10℃

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[Kolbenringe]

Update on reinstalling the white oil separator- 400km highway today, almost no oil consumed. Maybe 100ml. This is down from a highly variable consumption with the black top that went defective where it was more than a liter per 1000km to two liters, sometimes nothing, but at the end, it was burning all the time, even started smoking a couple times upon accelerator from idle.

[old guy]

Update on reinstalling the white oil separator- 400km highway today, almost no oil consumed. Maybe 100ml. This is down from a highly variable consumption with the black top that went defective where it was more than a liter per 1000km to two liters, sometimes nothing, but at the end, it was burning all the time, even started smoking a couple times upon accelerator from idle.

Nice! So apparently you did have the latest software update to go with the white PCV.

[Kolbenringe]

Nice! So apparently you did have the latest software update to go with the white PCV.

Yeah, there was not a question there- as mentioned, when I pulled the timing cover, I saw the seal was replaced and left in crooked and the crank pulley had evidence that it was removed. The car is a 2011 and had a 2013 oil separator and had full service records from Audi only, but for some reason, they kept stuff like this internal.

The other thing is the entire thing was reflashed a couple times in late 2017, bills also state that the entire car was updated @6hours, charged to warranty and the SA got into detail with me about what happened during it.

The software, IMO, is to make sure there are no CELs that are thrown by the different environment created by the white series of oil separator, but of course we will never know. I even had an inspection with the black one and it passed without issue.

The AK will go on probably tomorrow.

[MikeyD8288]

I am trying to find a Vacuum hose i can connect a T fitting to for a Boost Gauge. But i cant seem to find one. I found one in the back of the engine. But im not sure. It runs from a sensor on the Intake side. To a T connection onto a bigger hose on the other side by the turbo. Any ideas? Or is this a fine hose? T.A

[Depthcharge]

Nice! So apparently you did have the latest software update to go with the white PCV.

Deductive investigative work FTW!

[ians]

Damn! another cold weather issue happened yesterday. It was around -15C yesterday. When I picked up my car after work, the rear door having hard time to have it open and after it opened, it didn't close! the door latch didn't interact! End up I have to push the door tight and then use the remote to lock the car in order to make the door close properly. After I back home and parked it in the garage, the door didn't open from outside at all. I can only open it up from inside and after it open, it can't close again. But when I went to the dealer this morning, the door back to normal. I can't show it to the dealer. So, is it a common issue on B8?

[Depthcharge]

Damn! another cold weather issue happened yesterday. It was around -15C yesterday. When I picked up my car after work, the rear door having hard time to have it open and after it opened, it didn't close! the door latch didn't interact! End up I have to push the door tight and then use the remote to lock the car in order to make the door close properly. After I back home and parked it in the garage, the door didn't open from outside at all. I can only open it up from inside and after it open, it can't close again. But when I went to the dealer this morning, the door back to normal. I can't show it to the dealer. So, is it a common issue on B8?

Had this happen in my B7 Passat. The door lock actuator got some moisture in it (bad habit of rolling down windows after going to the car wash, haha) and when it freezes, that moisture condenses and shorts out the actuator lock. When it gets warmer, sometimes you can get it to re-engage. If the situation gets bad you can replace it. I eventually replaced it after it failed a few times, and then started constantly cycling at 15 MPH. Haven't had the issue in the B8.5 but I have seen a few posts on it.

[ians]

Had this happen in my B7 Passat. The door lock actuator got some moisture in it (bad habit of rolling down windows after going to the car wash, haha) and when it freezes, that moisture condenses and shorts out the actuator lock. When it gets warmer, sometimes you can get it to re-engage. If the situation gets bad you can replace it. I eventually replaced it after it failed a few times, and then started constantly cycling at 15 MPH. Haven't had the issue in the B8.5 but I have seen a few posts on it.Sounds like that the problem.

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[Zodiam]

Damn! another cold weather issue happened yesterday. It was around -15C yesterday. When I picked up my car after work, the rear door having hard time to have it open and after it opened, it didn't close! the door latch didn't interact! End up I have to push the door tight and then use the remote to lock the car in order to make the door close properly. After I back home and parked it in the garage, the door didn't open from outside at all. I can only open it up from inside and after it open, it can't close again. But when I went to the dealer this morning, the door back to normal. I can't show it to the dealer. So, is it a common issue on B8?

I have the same issue with the passenger door on the drivers side, i just have not used that door at all this winter cause i cant be arsed to fix it.. i can however open the door after locking it.

[ians]

I have the same issue with the passenger door on the drivers side, i just have not used that door at all this winter cause i cant be arsed to fix it.. i can however open the door after locking it.

I used hair dryer to heat up the handle and it is working fine now. Will see if it will coming up again.

[ians]

Had this happen in my B7 Passat. The door lock actuator got some moisture in it (bad habit of rolling down windows after going to the car wash, haha) and when it freezes, that moisture condenses and shorts out the actuator lock. When it gets warmer, sometimes you can get it to re-engage. If the situation gets bad you can replace it. I eventually replaced it after it failed a few times, and then started constantly cycling at 15 MPH. Haven't had the issue in the B8.5 but I have seen a few posts on it.

It happened a few times so end up have the actuator, handle cable replaced.

[SDF1]

Driver Door Lock Seized
Rear Door Latch Broken
Passenger Speaker Dead
Wheel Bearing Gone
Level Sensor Broken
Chain Stretch to the MAX

Just another day with an Audi

[ians]

Driver Door Lock Seized
Rear Door Latch Broken
Passenger Speaker Dead
Wheel Bearing Gone
Level Sensor Broken
Chain Stretch to the MAX

Just another day with an AudiThat's a lot for a day! This b8 2.0t giving me the most problems I ever have! But then my b8.5 s5 is the most reliable car(beat Honda & Toyota) that I ever have. What a mixed feeling on audi

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[Kolbenringe]

That's a lot for a day! This b8 2.0t giving me the most problems I ever have! But then my b8.5 s5 is the most reliable car(beat Honda & Toyota) that I ever have. What a mixed feeling on audi

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I read such retort posts with massive skepticism and likely most everyone else who is finally done defending Audi will, too. Not to mention, an S5 being your most reliable car. A highly-renowned unreliable car with massive problems all over the place that Audi never resolved through the life of that engine and variant. They just threw parts at it.

Very, very skeptical.

[Nano909]

I read such retort posts with massive skepticism and likely most everyone else who is finally done defending Audi will, too. Not to mention, an S5 being your most reliable car. A highly-renowned unreliable car with massive problems all over the place that Audi never resolved through the life of that engine and variant. They just threw parts at it.

Very, very skeptical.

I've never had issues with mine. Take care of your car and it will take care of you. Also the 3.0T is pretty much a bulletproof engine, very reliable.

[ians]

I've never had issues with mine. Take care of your car and it will take care of you. Also the 3.0T is pretty much a bulletproof engine, very reliable.

I think no matter how good care you take care of the B8 2.0T, all those burning oil, tensioner, water pump issue will still popping up. But yes the 3.0T is really bulletproof engine and B8.5 is a way more solid car than the B8. We have a group of close friends of 8 ppl and all have the 3.0T and none having issue other than 1 09 S4 need to replace water pump at ~ 150k km

[Kolbenringe]

I've never had issues with mine. Take care of your car and it will take care of you. Also the 3.0T is pretty much a bulletproof engine, very reliable.

Maybe you haven't received the memo yet, but that is not the case with Audi, nor with anything German. They are all on the edge of blowing up anytime. That era is over where it takes negligence to blow up an engine. Now it takes tons of time to try and delay it.

The 3.0T is well-known for numerous issues. It has a timing chain. Anything Audi with a timing chain has problems. They have never made a solid timing chain system.

[Nano909]

Maybe you haven't received the memo yet, but that is not the case with Audi, nor with anything German. They are all on the edge of blowing up anytime. That era is over where it takes negligence to blow up an engine. Now it takes tons of time to try and delay it.

The 3.0T is well-known for numerous issues. It has a timing chain. Anything Audi with a timing chain has problems. They have never made a solid timing chain system.100k miles and no issues. Seems like my car hasn't got the memo.

[A4x]

The 3.0T is well-known for numerous issues. It has a timing chain. Anything Audi with a timing chain has problems. They have never made a solid timing chain system.

THe timing chain rattles on the 3.0T on cold starts, but there seem to be very few, if any, catastrophic engine failure due to timing chain or tensioner failure on the 3.0T. The 2.0T is another story, engines blowing up left and right.

[Kolbenringe]

THe timing chain rattles on the 3.0T on cold starts, but there seem to be very few, if any, catastrophic engine failure due to timing chain or tensioner failure on the 3.0T. The 2.0T is another story, engines blowing up left and right.

It's not just the 2.0TFSI engines with issues. We have a wide variety of them throughout Audi's line. Again, anything with a timing chain is the first issue. Then we have issues common to the b8 and 8.5 architecture.

[SDF1]

This is going to be fun. If you think B8s are reliable. Get ready for my list. (It's a 2009)

55,000 KM = Piston & Rings
60,000 KM = Flex hose & Sunroof Visor
62,000 KM = Battery
62,500 KM = Gas Flap lock solenoid
63,000 KM = START Button
66,000 KM = Electronic Brake and Alternator
66,200 KM = A/C Relay
66,300 KM = Can Bus Wires & Ignition Starter
69,000 KM = MAF Sensor + Transmission Software Update SVM051
70,000 KM = Transmission Adaptation & Alignment
72,000 KM = Lower Control Arms & Sun roof motor
74,000 KM = Transmission Software Update + Transmission Adaptation + Steering Pump Replaced
79,000 KM = Water Pump Replaced
81,000 KM = Heated Mirrors & Engine Mounts Replaced
82,000 KM = Rear Back Door touch to open sensor broken
89,000 KM = Voltage Regulator + Coil Pack + Blower Motor + Transmission Mecatronic Replaced
91,000 KM = Tail light housing replaced + Steering Magnet Kit, Alignment
100,000KM= All Keyless sensors replaced with updated model + Electronic Brake Switch + Rear Diff Oil Replaced
105,000KM= Power Steering Hose Replaced
110,000KM= Intake Manifold
115,000KM= New Engine Long Block + Piston & Rings + Chain + Tensionner + Water Pump & A/C Switch
150,000KM= Engine Mount, Control Arm, Steering Hose, Air Bag Recall
165,000KM = NOW it is in for
Chain Stretch to the MAX, Rear Door Latch Broken, Wheel Bearing Gone, Level Sensor Broken,

It's a VERY reliable car!

[ians]

This is going to be fun. If you think B8s are reliable. Get ready for my list. (It's a 2009)

55,000 KM = Piston & Rings
60,000 KM = Flex hose & Sunroof Visor
62,000 KM = Battery
62,500 KM = Gas Flap lock solenoid
63,000 KM = START Button
66,000 KM = Electronic Brake and Alternator
66,200 KM = A/C Relay
66,300 KM = Can Bus Wires & Ignition Starter
69,000 KM = MAF Sensor + Transmission Software Update SVM051
70,000 KM = Transmission Adaptation & Alignment
72,000 KM = Lower Control Arms & Sun roof motor
74,000 KM = Transmission Software Update + Transmission Adaptation + Steering Pump Replaced
79,000 KM = Water Pump Replaced
81,000 KM = Heated Mirrors & Engine Mounts Replaced
82,000 KM = Rear Back Door touch to open sensor broken
89,000 KM = Voltage Regulator + Coil Pack + Blower Motor + Transmission Mecatronic Replaced
91,000 KM = Tail light housing replaced + Steering Magnet Kit, Alignment
100,000KM= All Keyless sensors replaced with updated model + Electronic Brake Switch + Rear Diff Oil Replaced
105,000KM= Power Steering Hose Replaced
110,000KM= Intake Manifold
115,000KM= New Engine Long Block + Piston & Rings + Chain + Tensionner + Water Pump & A/C Switch
150,000KM= Engine Mount, Control Arm, Steering Hose, Air Bag Recall
165,000KM = NOW it is in for
Chain Stretch to the MAX, Rear Door Latch Broken, Wheel Bearing Gone, Level Sensor Broken,

It's a VERY reliable car!55000 piston & ring and then 115000 again even the long block? I thought the stage 2 fix with the updated piston & ring is the permanent solution!

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

[Slick_B8]

This is going to be fun. If you think B8s are reliable. Get ready for my list. (It's a 2009)

55,000 KM = Piston & Rings
60,000 KM = Flex hose & Sunroof Visor
62,000 KM = Battery
62,500 KM = Gas Flap lock solenoid
63,000 KM = START Button
66,000 KM = Electronic Brake and Alternator
66,200 KM = A/C Relay
66,300 KM = Can Bus Wires & Ignition Starter
69,000 KM = MAF Sensor + Transmission Software Update SVM051
70,000 KM = Transmission Adaptation & Alignment
72,000 KM = Lower Control Arms & Sun roof motor
74,000 KM = Transmission Software Update + Transmission Adaptation + Steering Pump Replaced
79,000 KM = Water Pump Replaced
81,000 KM = Heated Mirrors & Engine Mounts Replaced
82,000 KM = Rear Back Door touch to open sensor broken
89,000 KM = Voltage Regulator + Coil Pack + Blower Motor + Transmission Mecatronic Replaced
91,000 KM = Tail light housing replaced + Steering Magnet Kit, Alignment
100,000KM= All Keyless sensors replaced with updated model + Electronic Brake Switch + Rear Diff Oil Replaced
105,000KM= Power Steering Hose Replaced
110,000KM= Intake Manifold
115,000KM= New Engine Long Block + Piston & Rings + Chain + Tensionner + Water Pump & A/C Switch
150,000KM= Engine Mount, Control Arm, Steering Hose, Air Bag Recall
165,000KM = NOW it is in for
Chain Stretch to the MAX, Rear Door Latch Broken, Wheel Bearing Gone, Level Sensor Broken,

It's a VERY reliable car!

Ehhhh, you got a lemon 🤷🏻*♂️

[SDF1]

55000 piston & ring and then 115000 again even the long block? I thought the stage 2 fix with the updated piston & ring is the permanent solution!

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

I started burning oil again. They opened the engine and saw cylinder 3 looked like an Egg and decided to change the block.

- - - Updated - - -


Ehhhh, you got a lemon 🤷🏻*♂️

Since everything should be "fixed" should I keep the car?

[Slick_B8]

I started burning oil again. They opened the engine and saw cylinder 3 looked like an Egg and decided to change the block.

- - - Updated - - -



Since everything should be "fixed" should I keep the car?
Deep down, i would of sold your after the 100k mark. Tooooo many issues with it, youre better off buying another one newer with low miles or a different car if you dont trust them anymore. Currently have 242k miles on my 2009 and ive been happy. Motor had to be replaced because of, uhhh, other circumstances but havent had any other issues with it. Only the regular maintenance of things has been done and whenever i replace something on it, i usually do it myself and with aftermarket parts that are more than likely better than the oem parts such as bushings, bearings, shocks etc.

[ians]

I started burning oil again. They opened the engine and saw cylinder 3 looked like an Egg and decided to change the block.

- - - Updated - - -



Since everything should be "fixed" should I keep the car?That's sucks! Hope u have warranty cover it. Originally I plan to keep it after my warranty done for about another 30k km because with the stage 2 fix + new tensioner + new turbo + new waterpump, I thought it can be good for another 100k km but seems like I am too optimistic.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

[Chillaxin]

I've got intermittent flickering of my backup camera in my avant. I wiggle the connector to the module in the passenger side access panel and it seems to go away for a few weeks, but then comes back. Fun!

[SDF1]

That's sucks! Hope u have warranty cover it. Originally I plan to keep it after my warranty done for about another 30k km because with the stage 2 fix + new tensioner + new turbo + new waterpump, I thought it can be good for another 100k km but seems like I am too optimistic.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

CPO Warranty, then Extended Warranty. The only reason I kept it is because I paid a lot for the warranty. Once the warranty is up in a month.... then I'm out naked lol

[ians]

CPO Warranty, then Extended Warranty. The only reason I kept it is because I paid a lot for the warranty. Once the warranty is up in a month.... then I'm out naked lolI paid $3200 + tax for 4yr 60k km extended warranty when I pick it up 2yr ago. I considered myself a good move to purchase the extended warranty but now dunno if it is a good idea to keep it after the warranty. I put a lot of effort and money to make it a stunning looking avant and will be sad to see it go

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

[A4x]

^^The Avants seem to have decent re-sale value. The sedans can't be given away.

[ducati]

^^The Avants seem to have decent re-sale value. The sedans can't be given away.

Very true in Ontario Canada.My Audi Avant Sline in blue is extremely rare.I never saw one ever in fact I rarely see any Sline B8 Avants in the GTA.

[schubby333]

I have no idea what's going on with my Avant... Video link below on what happens at startup.

Basically cycles through a bunch of warnings and doesn't start. In order to get the car to turnover, I need to turn accessory off, open door, close door, unlock and lock the car 9 times or so, push to start again and hope it starts. This happens ever time the car is cold. ANY suggestions are greatly appreciated!!! (Car runs totally fine once it turns over...)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18TxqDKa4wJURTbHHGYY8NktB2nxSBkyB

[ians]

Very true in Ontario Canada.My Audi Avant Sline in blue is extremely rare.I never saw one ever in fact I rarely see any Sline B8 Avants in the GTA.Yes, when I was searching for the avant, not able to find a single sline coming up. So end up I picked up a premium and convert it to a slinehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190312/9da52d28c5a30a4de2c5797bc8632447.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

[Depthcharge]

I've got intermittent flickering of my backup camera in my avant. I wiggle the connector to the module in the passenger side access panel and it seems to go away for a few weeks, but then comes back. Fun!

Aftermarket or stock? You can use a signal filter if AM or splice in if stock. Otherwise it sounds like something is interfering with the signal.

[ducati]

ians very nice..Im letting my Sline go pretty soon.Oil consumption is pretty bad.Im either moving onto a 2015 A4 Sline or over to a 2015 Mercedes C 350.Hopefully I can find a local buyer that can do their ring repair and buy my car.Runs like new with the exception of the ring issue.

[rolandoa1324]

Chassis Type: FL-AU48 (8T0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 42 46 47 52 53 55 56 5F 62
6C 72

VIN: WAUFFAFL5AN026000 Mileage: 238550km-148228miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: Malfunction 0010
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
5F-Information Electr. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
6C-Back-up Cam. -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (DL0MA-CAEB) Labels:| 06H-907-115-CAB.clb
Part No SW: 8K2 907 115 AL HW: 8K2 907 115 D
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TF H15 UM02
Revision: E1H15---
Coding: 0104010A190F0160
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TFS0118K2907115AL 001001
ROD: EV_ECM20TFS0118K2907115AL.rod
VCID: 79AFECF359597C8FD93-802C

5 Faults Found:
4054 - Cylinder 1
P0301 00 [101] - Misfire Detected
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 238552 km
Date: 2019.02.24
Time: 20:05:31

Engine speed: 915.00 /min
Normed load value: 10.6 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 33 °C
Intake air temperature: 23 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.146 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 73

4060 - Cylinder 3
P0303 00 [101] - Misfire Detected
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 238552 km
Date: 2019.02.24
Time: 20:05:31

Engine speed: 915.00 /min
Normed load value: 10.6 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 33 °C
Intake air temperature: 23 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.146 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 73

4063 - Cylinder 4
P0304 00 [237] - Misfire Detected
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 238552 km
Date: 2019.02.06
Time: 07:24:33

Engine speed: 1265.00 /min
Normed load value: 27.5 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 9 °C
Intake air temperature: 6 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 12.133 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

7960 - Cylinder Disabling
P130A 00 [032] - -
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

4051 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 00 [237] - -
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 238552 km
Date: 2019.02.06
Time: 07:24:21

Engine speed: 1136.00 /min
Normed load value: 33.3 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 9 °C
Intake air temperature: 6 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 11.921 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans (J217) Labels:| 0B6-927-156.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 927 158 J HW: 0B6 927 156
Component: 0B6 20TFSIUSA H05 0008
Revision: --H05---
Coding: 001012
Shop #: WSC 02335 785 00200
ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMAL651 A01006
ROD: EV_TCMAL651.rod
VCID: 3D2738E30DF180AFB5B-8068

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 8K0-907-379-V1.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 379 CA HW: 8K0 907 379 CA
Component: ESP8 quattro H04 0010
Revision: -------- Serial number: --------------
Coding: 150D18
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 7AADF3FF5CDF7797D09-802E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. (J393) Labels:. 8K0-907-064-05.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 064 DG HW: 8K0 907 064 DG
Component: BCM2 1.1 H02 0324
Revision: 00002001
Coding: 090100
Shop #: WSC 02399 823 56573
VCID: 78A9E9F762D36587A6D-802C

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8T0 959 754 A HW: 8T0 959 754 A
Component: FBSAUDIB8 IDG H37 0060
Serial number: 0509000051635003

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 8K0 905 852 D HW: 8K0 905 852 D
Component: J764 ELV MLB H37 0042
Serial number: 0209000060513003

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) Labels:. 8Tx-820-043-3Z.clb
Part No SW: 8T1 820 043 AQ HW: 8T1 820 043 AQ
Component: KLIMA 3 ZONEN H08 0171
Revision: C1000000 Serial number: 01290920090074
Coding: 64102000
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 005981173A032D479ED-8054

1 Fault Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 63
Reset counter: 176
Mileage: 209299 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.03.07
Time: 18:27:40

Freeze Frame:
Temperature: 22.0°C
Voltage: 12.00 V
Output: 0 W
Output: 0 W
Temperature: 24.0°C


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 8K0-907-063.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 063 P HW: 8K0 907 063 P
Component: BCM1 1.0 H25 0380
Revision: 10025001 Serial number: 00000000469843
Coding: 26001091063CAF010000080300003D0D0F1C52080001016100 0000
Shop #: WSC 51627 001 1048576
VCID: 3C2135E7166B89A7825-8068

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8K1 955 119 A HW: 8T1 955 119 Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: WWS 260909 H06 0070
Serial number: SWF09090266161
Coding: 00FD11

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 8K0 955 559 HW: 8K0 955 559 Labels: 8K0-955-559.CLB
Component: RLS H04 0003
Serial number: 10609744
Coding: 025028

Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 8K0 941 531 AL HW: 8K0 941 531 AL
Component: E1 - LDS H08 0090
Serial number: 00000000001809091803

Subsystem 4 - Part No SW: 8K0 907 410 B HW: 8K0 907 410 B
Component: HOMELINK H01 0010

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 10: Park/Steer Assist (J446) Labels:. 8K0-919-475.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 919 475 H HW: 8K0 919 475
Component: PARKHILFE 4K H06 0050
Revision: 11001001 Serial number: 39940927404086
Coding: 200103
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 3E253FEF00779BB7AC1-806A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:* 8K0-959-655.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 655 H HW: 8K0 959 655 H
Component: AirbagVW-AU10 H39 0560
Serial number: 003EGD052USP
Coding: 303836354230303030304A55304C384B3053
Shop #: WSC 02145 785 00200
ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaECUVWAUDI010 003010
ROD: EV_AirbaECUVWAUDI010_003_AU48.rod
VCID: 42DD4B1F740FFF57C89-8016

Seat occupied recognition:
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8K0 959 339 B HW: 8K0 959 339 B
Component: BF-Gewichtss. H01 0030
Serial number: 5810000R09000045WJ

Crash sensor for side airbag: driver side:
Serial number: 6334MSME4C3340346

Crash sensor for side airbag: front passenger side:
Serial number: 6344MSME4C333238C

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: driver side:
Serial number: 6352QSME343C0638G

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: passenger side:
Serial number: 6362QSME493B3918Q

Crash sensor for front airbag: driver side:
Serial number: 63732SME603C0C2C3

Crash sensor for front airbag: front passenger side:
Serial number: 63832SME4F3B1322+

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels:. 8K0-953-568.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 953 568 F HW: 8K0 953 568 F
Component: Lenks.Modul H16 0014
Revision: -------- Serial number: 90319IIQ0002T
Coding: 000036
Shop #: WSC 51627 001 104857
VCID: 3D2738E30D7180AFB5B-8068

Component: E221 - MFL H02 0010

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:. 8T0-920-xxx-17.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 920 980 M HW: 8K0 920 980 M
Component: KOMBIINSTR. H20 0255
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: CIX2AKA99
Coding: 8B1F09000300D705020000
Shop #: WSC 12345 123 61029
VCID: 3C2135E7166B89A7825-8068

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:. 8T0-907-468.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 907 468 T HW: 8T0 907 468 K
Component: GW-BEM 4CAN-M H09 0105
Revision: EB800053 Serial number: 5300E0992361A7
Coding: 00C303
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 52FD7B5FA4EF6FD7789-8006

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8K0 915 181 E HW: 8K0 915 181 E
Component: J367-BDM H06 0170
Serial number: 19091C29160909

1 Fault Found:
02873 - Control Module for Back-Up Camera (J772)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 57
Reset counter: 134
Mileage: 237092 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.01.15
Time: 22:27:02

Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 10000
Voltage: 12.10 V
Count: 9
Bin. Bits: 10010
Time: 11.40 s


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver (J386) Labels:. 8K0-959-793.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 793 H HW: 8K0 959 793 D
Component: TSG FA H11 0306
Revision: Serial number: 0000009358276
Coding: 011C03204000410001
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 45D7500365A1C86FEDB-8010

1 Fault Found:
02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 216
Mileage: 209299 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.03.07
Time: 18:30:32


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. (J393) Labels:. 8K0-907-064-46.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 064 DG HW: 8K0 907 064 DG
Component: BCM2 1.1 H02 0324
Revision: 00002001 Serial number: 0120485639
Coding: 0106023A007A440400B0010000000000
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 78A9E9F762D36587A6D-802C

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8K0 959 719 HW: 8K0 959 719
Component: GTO BF H06 0050
Serial number: 00000000000000170407

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HO H03 1301

Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 8K0 959 591 A HW: 8K0 959 591
Component: J245 PS037 H06 0041

4 Faults Found:
00218 - Humidity Sensor (G355)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 181
Mileage: 209299 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.03.07
Time: 18:27:45

01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 204
Mileage: 237801 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.01.27
Time: 18:15:27

02615 - Fuel Tank Cap; Lock
009 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 90
Reset counter: 173
Mileage: 209304 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.03.07
Time: 19:12:59

02616 - Fuel Tank Cap; Unlock
009 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 249
Reset counter: 176
Mileage: 209304 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.03.07
Time: 19:13:06


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System (J525) Labels:. 8T0-035-223-BOM.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 035 223 AN HW: 8T0 035 223 AK
Component: DSP Prem H08 0190
Revision: 00008001 Serial number: 34881005449003
VCID: 7AADF3FF5CDF7797D09-802E

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 209080 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.03.03
Time: 12:04:29

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 12.90 V
Temperature: 19.0°C
Temperature: 20.0°C
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Bin. Bits: 00000000


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. (J387) Labels:. 8K0-959-792.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 792 H HW: 8K0 959 792 D
Component: TSG BF H11 0306
Revision: Serial number: 0000009404507
Coding: 011C03204C00410001
Shop #: WSC 12345 123 61029
VCID: 44D14D076E9BF167FA5-8010

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 53: Parking Brake (J540) Labels: 8K0-907-801-V1.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 801 H HW: 8K0 907 801 H
Component: EPB Audi B8 H09 0100
Revision: 00000003 Serial number: 00000000456349
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 34311DC73E3B41E74A5-8060

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 8K0-907-357.clb
Part No: 8K5 907 357
Component: Dynamische LWR H01 0010
Revision: 00000001 Serial number:
Coding: 0000004
Shop #: WSC 02145 785 00200
VCID: 77ABEACB63CD6AFFAF7-8022

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio (R) Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 4F0 035 082 A HW: 4F0 035 082
Component: Radio U SIRIU H45 0021
Revision: AB001007 Serial number: 335IW097531039
Coding: 020000010000000001
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 1D67D863ADB1E0AF95B-8048

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module
014 - Defective - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 168678 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.10.18
Time: 18:21:36

Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 00000000 00001000


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels:. 4E0-035-6xx-5F.clb
Part No SW: 8T1 035 664 F HW: 8T1 035 664 A
Component: H-BN-NA H41 0189
Revision: -------- Serial number: 490I$097518363
Coding: 010200000006A1EF01000B0E000000030000
Shop #: WSC 51627 001 1048576
VCID: 3B2336FB13658E9F8BF-806E

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8R0 060 884 F
Component: NAR 2009/2010 5304

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 4F0 919 604 HW: 4F0 919 604
Component: DU7 High H43 0306
Serial number: 9356IX091075292

Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 8T0 919 609 F HW: 8T0 919 609 F
Component: E0380 Bedient H08 0100
Serial number: 00000000367026

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8R0 906 961 A
Component: CD-Database 1293

1 Fault Found:
03157 - Functionality limited due to Communications Disruption
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 31
Reset counter: 133
Mileage: 237229 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.01.18
Time: 22:30:40

Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 00001000 00000000
Bin. Bits: 00000000 00000000
Bin. Bits: 00000000 00000000
Bin. Bits: 00000000 00000000


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 62: Door, Rear Left (J388) Labels:. 8K0-959-795.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 795 C HW: 8K0 959 795 C
Component: TSG HL H10 0306
Revision: Serial number: 0000101983506
Coding: 010C03204000210001
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 42DD4B1F748FFF57C89-8016

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 6C: Back-up Cam.
Cannot be reached

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 72: Door, Rear Right (J389) Labels:. 8K0-959-795.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 795 C HW: 8K0 959 795 C
Component: TSG HR H10 0306
Revision: Serial number: 0000101983509
Coding: 010C03204000210001
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 42DD4B1F748FFF57C89-8016

No fault code found.

End----(Elapsed Time: 01:51, VBatt start/end: 11.8V/11.8V. VIgn 11.8V)-----



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[SDF1]

Chassis Type: FL-AU48 (8T0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 42 46 47 52 53 55 56 5F 62
6C 72

VIN: WAUFFAFL5AN026000 Mileage: 238550km-148228miles


Engine Issues
Central Locking
Backup Camera
Humidty Sensor?
Rear License Plate Bulb
Fuel Tank Solenoid
Sound System/Radio

[rolandoa1324]

Forgot to put what my car is doing lol
When I try and turn it on it cranks and wants to turn on but won’t, you can hear the fuel pump working.I turns on if I gas it but as soon as I stop gassing it , it turns off. Swapped the injectors after I found gas in cylinder number 4 but that didn’t fix the issue. Anyone else experience this? Idk if I should just take it to a shop and not risk messing something up.


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[S-Liner]

Hey man, some FYI. My wagon had extended starts, misfires, weird shit going on for about a few weeks. I suspected fuel pump issues, but ruled that out after a couple tests. I was eventually losing engine power slowly over those weeks and then the extended starts just turned to no starts. Ended up with that dreaded P016 code, I was freakin out and pissed at the same time. Anyways got the engine repaired, jumped 4 teeth retarded on timing...it could’ve been really serious. I know you don’t have that code, just be cautious.


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[rolandoa1324]

Hey man, some FYI. My wagon had extended starts, misfires, weird shit going on for about a few weeks. I suspected fuel pump issues, but ruled that out after a couple tests. I was eventually losing engine power slowly over those weeks and then the extended starts just turned to no starts. Ended up with that dreaded P016 code, I was freakin out and pissed at the same time. Anyways got the engine repaired, jumped 4 teeth retarded on timing...it could’ve been really serious. I know you don’t have that code, just be cautious.


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Thanks for the info bro, I’m gonna do a compression check on it and show the results to my mechanic. Might just build another engine or swap a 14-16 not sure what’s better.


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[Kolbenringe]

Callback to the discussion about the oil separators on the EA888 engines- I got my white top AK to supercede the J variant that the car came with. The J variant was put on likely as part of a stage 1 job in 2013-2015 or so.

I had the AH on, and the seal on that purge port fell off. I see absolutely no way to keep it in there, as there appears to be no retainer for the spike that comes out of it. The top still has that wider area to engage in something which I can't find. It just doesn't stay. My oil consumption went up several times over- highly variable, but could have been 2L or more per 1,000km. It wasn't so bad in the beginning, but definitely elevated. It also created high consumption on the highway, which I didn't have before.

Now back to the purge port seals on the J and AK: The seal on the J variant also goes between that piston it's on and the housing- full coverage. The AK is more like the AH. The seal doesn't cover the entire piston and definitely doesn't go to between the piston and the housing. I don't know what positive effect this would make in the crankcase, considering the two phase operation of the port.

After putting the J variant back on, I initially saw radically lowered oil consumption- about 625ml/1000km. In taking off the J variant and comparing it to the AH takeoff, the J wasn't full of oil and the purge channel on the cam cover had a minimal amount of oil pooled in it. With the AH, it had a huge amount of oil and the separator itself had enough oil that I could pour it out. It was practically full.

[old guy]

Interesting!

This supports what we had discussed earlier that if your engine came with the black series (A, B, AB, AC, E, AH) they are interchangeable and the white series (J, AE, AK) are interchangeable but you cannot go from a black to a white without an update. And once the update has been performed you cannot switch back.

It isn't clear to me if you noted a difference between the AK and the J or just between the AH and the J.

I have a spare J sitting on the shelf and the orange flapper valve matches your description of the AK?

http://i63.tinypic.com/2cyo66d.jpg

[Kolbenringe]

What you're showing looks like my J.

My AK/white has a smaller diameter seal that doesn't seal in between the piston and the housing.

My AH/black is also likely smaller in diameter, which helped it fall out.

So what's your take on this?

https://i.imgur.com/Ur2aY1A.jpg

The AK variant ^^^

[old guy]

I don't think the flapper size is really of any significance. If you lift the flapper you will see a small hole that the flapper seals. Larger or smaller, the flapper will still open the small port when under vacuum. The critical function is that the valve pushes upward to relieve any block pressure once the back pressure check valves around the PRV close when the intake is under boost.

[Kolbenringe]

Could be nothing. I can still talk about how radically my oil consumption went up with a new AH from a J, which then went way higher all of a sudden, which likely coincides with the seal popping off.

Going back to a J, the consumption is reasonable, however, I want to see IF it goes down further with the AK and if it cures the discrepancy between city and highway driving. With the J, highway driving consumption was practically nothing. City was terrible. With the AH, consumption on the highway was out of control and I thought I needed to get the engine rebuilt. We'll see what the AK produces. I refilled, checked with both the dipstick and MMI. So we'll see. Not expecting miracles or much, but anything is possible.

Also...I had a constant oil leak (the two hoses in front of the oil pan were always wet and the undertray always had an oil film) which the dealer diagnosed it as the lower oil pan leaking, repairing it under warranty for some 1500 Euros. I still had those two hoses in front of the pan wet thereafter. My front cover had a seal that was installed crooked from a Stage 1, now looking in retrospect the cover was filmy, but not wet. I changed the timing set and cover in November and washed everything down. No wet hoses anymore, no oil leaking onto those hoses. I always thought it was interesting that hoses a distance away from the oil pan were wet from oil. It must have been the crank spinning oil around under certain conditions. So another issue fixed.

I wonder how many people have the wrong kind of oil separator on their engines...

[moea4]

Lots of good info about PCV.
Looks like I have a small leak from by PCV cap (version J). Should i change or is that a normal operation?
Car drives OK otherwise. Had one instance of 3-5 sec flashing CEL with misfire code in cyl 1,2 and 3. This was while driving off after a cold start on a cold winter morning (around 5°F).

[Kolbenringe]

Lots of good info about PCV.
Looks like I have a small leak from by PCV cap (version J). Should i change or is that a normal operation?
Car drives OK otherwise. Had one instance of 3-5 sec flashing CEL with misfire code in cyl 1,2 and 3. This was while driving off after a cold start on a cold winter morning (around 5°F).

First question: how do you know it's leaking?

My advice is that if it's defective, simply change it out. From the J, you would go to the AK variant.

[moea4]

I have some oil forming around the PCV.
https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/PCV.jpg

[JGeorge]

Crossed over the rumble strip yesterday and my driver DRL faulted out. Checked the connections (that I can see) and can't seem to find an issue there. Seems a bit new for the DRL to fail, it's a '13 with 49k on the clock.
Any ideas? Could it be the bulb this early?

**edit, I have searched the forum, only seeming to find the LED/Xenon upgrades.

[Peter.dupuis]

After carbon cleaning I didn’t put the cylinder divider plates back in based off a mechanic friends suggestion. Cold start sounds like it’s struggling to get fuel but after cold start it’s back to normal, never hear it again. I did some cold start revs and it shut off after 3-4 revs. Upon starting back up I had to push the gas to get it going. Should I put those dividers back in or will a hpfp fix the issue?




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[Spawne32]

After carbon cleaning I didn’t put the cylinder divider plates back in based off a mechanic friends suggestion. Cold start sounds like it’s struggling to get fuel but after cold start it’s back to normal, never hear it again. I did some cold start revs and it shut off after 3-4 revs. Upon starting back up I had to push the gas to get it going. Should I put those dividers back in or will a hpfp fix the issue?




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lol yes those dividers are there for a reason

[Peter.dupuis]

lol yes those dividers are there for a reason

What do they do?


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[Kolbenringe]

lol yes those dividers are there for a reason

But not for that. They are there to boost intake stream velocity at low RPMs via making the port and runner into the engine smaller. It's a booster or a venturi effect. There are people that take them out completely for other reasons and don't have the start up issues.

[Peter.dupuis]

But not for that. They are there to boost intake stream velocity at low RPMs via making the port and runner into the engine smaller. It's a booster or a venturi effect. There are people that take them out completely for other reasons and don't have the start up issues.

I installed IE stg 2 at the same time, I wonder if that’s creating the issue. Anyways thanks for the input. Plates going back in next week.

Mechanic friend said removing those allows for more high end power and highly recommended it with a tuned car.


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[Spawne32]

But not for that. They are there to boost intake stream velocity at low RPMs via making the port and runner into the engine smaller. It's a booster or a venturi effect. There are people that take them out completely for other reasons and don't have the start up issues.

Yes, you said exactly why they need to be there. The car is not tuned for them to be removed, which is why it causes it to run rough without them.

[Spawne32]

I installed IE stg 2 at the same time, I wonder if that’s creating the issue. Anyways thanks for the input. Plates going back in next week.

Mechanic friend said removing those allows for more high end power and highly recommended it with a tuned car.


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He is right in theory, opening up the intake port allows for better CFM flow in the upper RPM's, but the car, nor the tune you installed is designed to work without them. You would have to do a full flapper delete or an intake manifold swap and have the appropriate tune for it to take full advantage of that.

[JBAeroEngineer]

Crossed over the rumble strip yesterday and my driver DRL faulted out. Checked the connections (that I can see) and can't seem to find an issue there. Seems a bit new for the DRL to fail, it's a '13 with 49k on the clock.
Any ideas? Could it be the bulb this early?

**edit, I have searched the forum, only seeming to find the LED/Xenon upgrades.I had 2 LED bulbs go out in my rear tails at like 30k miles. I'm assuming you're JUST outside warranty?

[JGeorge]

I had 2 LED bulbs go out in my rear tails at like 30k miles. I'm assuming you're JUST outside warranty?

Sigh I was hoping this was a wiring issue or something along those lines..
Yes, I am, the care is "new" to me.
I dont have the CanBus so im pretty sure it's the Halogen bulbs... may be able to replace them, but $52 for a single bulb is steep.. I guess welcome to Euro Car modding haha.

[Theiceman]

I had 2 LED bulbs go out in my rear tails at like 30k miles. I'm assuming you're JUST outside warranty?

what is involved in replacing those rear LEDS ? mine is a different setup but my buddies is a 2010 and when following him those missing segments are annoying !!! are they individually replaceable ?

- - - Updated - - -

actually nothing went wrong today ..... but there is an asteroid coming so stay tuned ....

[JBAeroEngineer]

what is involved in replacing those rear LEDS ? mine is a different setup but my buddies is a 2010 and when following him those missing segments are annoying !!! are they individually replaceable ?

- - - Updated - - -

actually nothing went wrong today ..... but there is an asteroid coming so stay tuned ....I think there was a write up for how to do it here somewhere. I was still within warranty and there was not an official procedure to do so. They just replaced the assembly.

[JGeorge]

Sigh I was hoping this was a wiring issue or something along those lines..
Yes, I am, the care is "new" to me.
I dont have the CanBus so im pretty sure it's the Halogen bulbs... may be able to replace them, but $52 for a single bulb is steep.. I guess welcome to Euro Car modding haha.


02895 - Supply Voltage for LED Module for DRL and Parking Light; Left
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

So that's the fault that Im getting... currently have it thrown in the goog lookin for answers, but, if anyone has had a similiar and wouldnt mind sharing, I would appreciate the help

[Homienator]

My car got hit by another driver when i was shopping with my girlfriend...
He hited my car on my rear left wheel and by the huge contact my car touched another parked car and moved my A4 2 meters to the right and a parking space to the front.
The driver tried to get away but a witness contacted the cops and intercepted him!
My car is at the Audi garage waiting for checkup what i would cost or if he's total los.
If the isurance says its costs to much for what the car is worth they gonna put him as total loss :(



http://i64.tinypic.com/2ynhxcw.jpg

http://i66.tinypic.com/14y1rgx.jpg

http://oi63.tinypic.com/2dc6eqc.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/5k38k3.jpg

[Betq]

My car got hit by another driver when i was shopping with my girlfriend...
He hited my car on my rear left wheel and by the huge contact my car touched another parked car and moved my A4 2 meters to the right and a parking space to the front.
The driver tried to get away but a witness contacted the cops and intercepted him!
My car is at the Audi garage waiting for checkup what i would cost or if he's total los.
If the isurance says its costs to much for what the car is worth they gonna put him as total loss :(
]

Wow that sucks, good thing someone got him before he ran but how does someone even manage to hit a parked car that hard.

[JBAeroEngineer]

That axle/knuckle looks toast.

[Homienator]

That axle/knuckle looks toast.
Indeed,...
Axle/knuckle,suspension,triangle,bodywork and al the rest we can’t see without putting the car on the bridge.

[Adams-Allroad]

114403114404114405114406
I have some oil forming around the PCV.
https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/PCV.jpg

You can Order new CAP, original or after market from Amazon.

[Theiceman]

that car above looks like a write off ...

[Zodiam]

Involuntary muffler delete...

Also found a nice bit of bubbling paint just 3.5 inches in diameter that has started to flake, at the end of the rocker panel near the rear wheel well.
Quattro is awesome, but the rest of these cars cant handle winters for shit.. my 2010 A4 has 100k miles, and it has more rust than my fathers 08 E91 that now has 260k miles... very strongly considering selling this fucking car..


https://i.imgur.com/f3HMUIV.jpg

[carwell]

2011 a4 with 125k on the clock.
a fun on ramp acceleration ended very abruptly @ about 90
0 compression #4, pulled the head and found this.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/meomb2oqmbpc01s/Photo%20Apr%2003%2C%205%2025%2020%20PM%20%281%29.j pg?raw=1

my dodge ram with a hemi has 260k on the odometer and have had 0 engine issues. I live and learn, but do love my a4. dropped a 2016 engine in and away i go

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8hq4uu42svh316w/Photo%20Mar%2028%2C%205%2053%2033%20PM%20%281%29%2 0%281%29.jpg?raw=1

[Betq]

Was trying to change the brightness on the license plate light (module 46, channel 211 based on another post) and cleared a bunch of error codes on the tail light and all of a sudden obdeleven changed up a bunch of coding I hadn't touched? I did swap over to xenon headlights in the afternoon and modified module 9 though but everything seemed fine throughout the day. My tail lights are going all crazy and messed up now, module 46 channel 199-203 are stuck at a value and I can't change them back to 0, I think my channel 191, 205-210 were also set to 0, reverse light isn't popping up, when I have the turn signal left the right side inner light blinks with it as well, and inside the car the blinker indicator and sound are going at 2x speed. I screwed up and don't have a backup since I didn't expect this to happen and now i'm just confused and stuck. Any clue on how I could reset everything back to original values and there's probably other values that got changed too [headbang][headbang][headbang]

[Gunnark100]

Any clue on how I could reset everything back to original values and there's probably other values that got changed too [headbang][headbang][headbang]

If someone will give you same lights adaption channel map(check also many threads we have regarding tail, one or more channels are fully automaticly changed value...like from 14xxx to 0 or 1 etc) or dealer.

If you get your values from online, just go channel by channel from 181.(lights switched off, if drl enabled via tail - also disable, until all good)!

[red4life5]

[QUOTE=carwell;13610538]2011 a4 with 125k on the clock.
a fun on ramp acceleration ended very abruptly @ about 90
0 compression #4, pulled the head and found this.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/meomb2oqmbpc01s/Photo%20Apr%2003%2C%205%2025%2020%20PM%20%281%29.j pg?raw=1

Hey, not sure what I’m looking at. What was the failure? Are you referring to the carbon build up?


2010 A4 S-Line Prestige

[Spawne32]

i think hes referring to the piece of the exhaust valve thats missing lol

[Adams-Allroad]

2011 a4 with 125k on the clock.
a fun on ramp acceleration ended very abruptly @ about 90
0 compression #4, pulled the head and found this.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/meomb2oqmbpc01s/Photo%20Apr%2003%2C%205%2025%2020%20PM%20%281%29.j pg?raw=1

my dodge ram with a hemi has 260k on the odometer and have had 0 engine issues. I live and learn, but do love my a4. dropped a 2016 engine in and away i go

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8hq4uu42svh316w/Photo%20Mar%2028%2C%205%2053%2033%20PM%20%281%29%2 0%281%29.jpg?raw=1


Chip in valve, wow

[Adams-Allroad]

Now back to the purge port seals on the J and AK: The seal on the J variant also goes between that piston it's on and the housing- full coverage. The AK is more like the AH. The seal doesn't cover the entire piston and definitely doesn't go to between the piston and the housing. I don't know what positive effect this would make in the crankcase, considering the two phase operation of the port.


Does anyone know difference between all these PCV valves.
Could it be springs or Diaphragm

[Adams-Allroad]

Now back to the purge port seals on the J and AK: The seal on the J variant also goes between that piston it's on and the housing- full coverage. The AK is more like the AH. The seal doesn't cover the entire piston and definitely doesn't go to between the piston and the housing. I don't know what positive effect this would make in the crankcase, considering the two phase operation of the port.


Does anyone know difference between all these PCV valves.
Could it be springs or Diaphragm


I found this link


https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b8-platform-discussion-128/question-about-pcv-valve-oil-separator-versions-ah-vs-ak-2935808/

[Betq]

If someone will give you same lights adaption channel map(check also many threads we have regarding tail, one or more channels are fully automaticly changed value...like from 14xxx to 0 or 1 etc) or dealer.

If you get your values from online, just go channel by channel from 181.(lights switched off, if drl enabled via tail - also disable, until all good)!

I gave it a go and used a coding table NA side which pretty much looks the same as my original coding. Everything works fine including reverse lights but I still can't change channels 199-202 back to 0, leaving the inner right light to blink when indicating left still and braking as well. I did read that channel 199-202 shouldn't affect a sedan's lights but it's still having issues

Table I used:
https://i.imgur.com/w6Nkmb4.png

[Betq]

Think this is where the trouble started, I think the app was lagging when I went over to channel 211 and changed it so it decided to apply to all the previous channels and a bunch of other stuff decided to change itself after. Looks like my channel 208 was 51233 instead of 44 (from the table) as well, not sure why or if it's a mistake

*Messed around with some values for 195,196,203,204 then set them back to default and it seems to be acting normal now. 199-202 are still unmodifiable with value 10248, indicator still going super fast, and still have fault in all 4 lights [:(]

Adaptation
Control unit: 46 Central Module Comfort System
Channel: 211
Old value: 0
New value: 51214
Mileage: 76770 km
Date: 2019-04-07 00:17

---------------------------------------------------------------
Adaptation
Control unit: 46 Central Module Comfort System
Channel: 211
Old value: 51214
New value: 0
Mileage: 76770 km
Date: 2019-04-07 00:16

---------------------------------------------------------------
Adaptation
Control unit: 46 Central Module Comfort System
Channel: 210
Old value: 51234
New value: 0
Mileage: 76770 km
Date: 2019-04-07 00:16

---------------------------------------------------------------
Adaptation
Control unit: 46 Central Module Comfort System
Channel: 209
Old value: 51202
New value: 0
Mileage: 76770 km
Date: 2019-04-07 00:16

---------------------------------------------------------------
Adaptation
Control unit: 46 Central Module Comfort System
Channel: 208
Old value: 51233
New value: 0
Mileage: 76770 km
Date: 2019-04-07 00:16

[nguyendot]

Found my Sirius Satellite radio missing. There's an obscure TSB to fix it, but dealer wants $300 for the 15 min flash....lame.

[Theiceman]

i heard that satelite radio is free for Audis in the US , is that true ? budy said to just call and tell them i bought it at some delaer in the US and they will enable it .. hmmm.... cant be true... or can it ?

[nguyendot]

i heard that satelite radio is free for Audis in the US , is that true ? budy said to just call and tell them i bought it at some delaer in the US and they will enable it .. hmmm.... cant be true... or can it ?

Costs money. $26/6 months after the free 3 month trial.

[JBAeroEngineer]

Costs money. $26/6 months after the free 3 month trial.Yeah, I pay like $12/mo. Worth it IMO.

[BlueLion]

I had blue smoke from my exhaust yesterday. Drove the car today, watched if any smoke is behind me, no smoke. Should I be worried? Also, when I press the clutch I feel a little vibration. Should I be worried about that too? The car in question is Audi A4 Avant 2015 (B8.5) 2.0 TDI.

[4ringnut]

I had blue smoke from my exhaust yesterday. Drove the car today, watched if any smoke is behind me, no smoke. Should I be worried? Also, when I press the clutch I feel a little vibration. Should I be worried about that too? The car in question is Audi A4 Avant 2015 (B8.5) 2.0 TDI.

Blue smoke=turbo failure. Good luck man.


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[adamazing]

I already know this is a lazy question, and nearly impossible to diagnose online without actually inspecting the suspension, but I haven't had time to dig into the car to find the issue. Looking for initial ideas on what to inspect.

About a week ago, I noticed a rubbing noise (same sound you can imagine if someone is sitting down or getting up from a plush leather couch) coming from the front driver side firewall. It ONLY happens on slow speed turn to the right, at ballpark 10mph. Does not happen at a full stop, does not happen at speed, and does not happen when I turn to the left. What's extra weird, is that I can't seem to hear it from outside of the car, only when sitting in the car. I can almost feel it in the floor board too but it's subtle. It's been driving me nuts the past couple of days.

I did a very quick cursory check with a flashlight through the upper strut mount cover and from what I can see, most of the visible bushings look perfect. What would be the likely culprit? I'm thinking I might have a worn tie-rod maybe.

[Kolbenringe]

I already know this is a lazy question, and nearly impossible to diagnose online without actually inspecting the suspension, but I haven't had time to dig into the car to find the issue. Looking for initial ideas on what to inspect.

About a week ago, I noticed a rubbing noise (same sound you can imagine if someone is sitting down or getting up from a plush leather couch) coming from the front driver side firewall. It ONLY happens on slow speed turn to the right, at ballpark 10mph. Does not happen at a full stop, does not happen at speed, and does not happen when I turn to the left. What's extra weird, is that I can't seem to hear it from outside of the car, only when sitting in the car. I can almost feel it in the floor board too but it's subtle. It's been driving me nuts the past couple of days.

I did a very quick cursory check with a flashlight through the upper strut mount cover and from what I can see, most of the visible bushings look perfect. What would be the likely culprit? I'm thinking I might have a worn tie-rod maybe.

From reading your post, I suggest you go to a shop. A proper or even possible diagnosis of something that could put you and others in danger isn't possible. Be responsible and take your car to a shop. Yes, it's a lazy question.

[helldriver]

Sunroof drain drivers side front leaking down behind pillar trim, sucks!

[Peter.dupuis]

After hwy cruising I pulled off into a side road and was doing some 1/4 mile runs. First run, wot I heard a flutter sound from the turbo I think but didn’t notice it affecting performance. Next three runs no flutter same driving. Could this be from too much boost in the stock dv? Drove fine the rest of day just curious why the flutter


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[Spawne32]

http://i68.tinypic.com/15ev68o.png

-_- what the fuck with this car, 3rd one since I bought it 2.5 years ago, all i need is the passenger front to go now and ill have done the entire car.

[The Infiltrator]

http://i68.tinypic.com/15ev68o.png

-_- what the fuck with this car, 3rd one since I bought it 2.5 years ago, all i need is the passenger front to go now and ill have done the entire car.

Hmm, I wonder if their's something shorting it out since you've been through so many.

[Spawne32]

Hmm, I wonder if their's something shorting it out since you've been through so many.

Different doors.

[The Infiltrator]

Different doors.

Got ya.

[Spawne32]

Got ya.

cheap actuators lol shit parts audi, shit parts

[The Infiltrator]

cheap actuators lol shit parts audi, shit parts

When mine went out I got the Porche one not OEM, cheaper and held up well.

[Spawne32]

When mine went out I got the Porche one not OEM, cheaper and held up well.

well the porsche part is the audi/vw part, says it right on the plastic, you just pay less at porsche lol go figure how that one works

[The Infiltrator]

well the porsche part is the audi/vw part, says it right on the plastic, you just pay less at porsche lol go figure how that one works

I know, that's why I went that route. Odd how it was cheaper but I'm not one to complain about saving some cash. [>_<]

[adamazing]

From reading your post, I suggest you go to a shop. A proper or even possible diagnosis of something that could put you and others in danger isn't possible. Be responsible and take your car to a shop. Yes, it's a lazy question.Calm down Captain Worst-Case Scenario.

It was a buildup of road debris/gravel in the helper springs of my driver side coilover.

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