Misfire Issue In Low RPM

[Quattritude]

Hey guys,

Lately I have been having a misfire issue. I have had misfiring in the past here and there but now there is a consistent problem and it happens only in idle when the RPM drops below 1000. If I rev the car higher than 1000 while at a stop, I don't get any misfiring but if I do not, then it misfires in cylinder 1 and 3. I have changed my spark plugs and coilpacks (to the red R8 ones) but the problem still persists. I even switched the new spark plugs and coilpacks around in case they were faulty as well but the problem did not follow those particular sparks or coils and still came back in cylinder 1 and 3.

Does anyone have any ideas what the issue can be? I am going to do carbon build-up cleaning this upcoming weekend, which I am sure is a factor due to my car having about 65k miles on it but just wanted to make sure it is not something else.

Any help would be great!

[Quattritude]

Just purchased a PCV valve perhaps that will fix the issue

[Quattritude]

Swapped out my PCV and did carbon build up cleaning. Car feels a lot better but I get the flashing CEL here and there when the car is at idle.

Any help would be great!


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[STA4]

Any error codes? Injector issue?

[van462]

Pull your sparkplugs and see if any are wet with gas. Possible fuel injector sticking.

[Quattritude]

Any error codes? Injector issue?

Before I used to get the typical P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire but now that I changed my PCV and did the carbon build up cleaning, the CEL just flashes at idle. I checked pending DTCs with VAG COM and it shows the P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire.

[Quattritude]

Pull your sparkplugs and see if any are wet with gas. Possible fuel injector sticking.

Awesome, thanks I will try that today and report back. If it's sticking, is there a way to clean the fuel injector or do I have to replace it? Also, is it injector 1, 2, 3, 4 from the front of the car or from the fire wall?

[Quattritude]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/07/f54a44c2b89edbf0c6dc19f86c0ea2ff.jpg

Just bought some of this stuff. It's an Audi multipurpose additive. It's meant to clean the fuel injectors (not carbon build up obv....which i don't need it to because i have done that already).

I am hoping i have some luck with this. Don't want to pull my manifold twice in a week lol


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[STA4]

Good luck, I just ran a tank of Chevron Techron. I have a slightly rough idle...it didn't help. I think of it as preventative maintenance.

[Quattritude]

Good luck, I just ran a tank of Chevron Techron. I have a slightly rough idle...it didn't help. I think of it as preventative maintenance.

Yea, I'm thinking it is preventative as well but I am desperate at the moment and trying to avoid pulling the manifold again lol. Worth $10

[STA4]

It's definitely worth the shot. Where did you pick that up, dealership?

[Quattritude]

It's definitely worth the shot. Where did you pick that up, dealership?

Got it from Downtown Audi. All Audi dealerships should typically have stock of it.

[Quattritude]

I would like to confirm that the fuel additive didn't do shit lol. I think it is the injectors

[STA4]

It's not an instant fix. You have to drive the whole tank to know as it takes time for the additives to clean

[Quattritude]

Yea but I have done 3/4 tank and the car still idles like complete shit. I have doubts that in the last 1/4 tank the car is going to run like new

[STA4]

You did 3/4 tank in 1 day?!

[Quattritude]

LOL yea. I pumped up in North York and drove to Newmarket. From Newmarket, went to the Leslieville (downtown) and then from there went to Richmond and Peter St. From there went back to Newmarket. From Newmarket I went to Woodbridge. Then today from Woodbridge to downtown Toronto again. 50% of it in dense traffic and ripped it every time I got the chance

[Quattritude]

So I just ordered an injector. I know they usually recommend replacing all four but I'm going to replace the one I believe is faulty for now.

There is an extended warranty in place for the injectors but with the mods that I have on my car, I'm scared they'll just send me out on my way and plus I would have to pay the diagnostics fee for an hour of labor which is $145 plus taxes. Instead, I ordered an injector for the same price along with the installation kit from ECS. I will report back once I have changed it.

[Quattritude]

I changed the injector today and unfortunately nothing changed. I still have the misfiring in cylinder 3. I am truly out of ideas.

Any help would be great!

[Quattritude]

BUMP

[Elliott]

This is pretty odd. I would've guessed the injector would solve the problem. Is the misfire still only on cyl 3? Any damage to the wiring around the coil pack? Possibly a valve seal going bad?

[Quattritude]

This is pretty odd. I would've guessed the injector would solve the problem. Is the misfire still only on cyl 3? Any damage to the wiring around the coil pack? Possibly a valve seal going bad?

Yea, I was hoping it would have as well. Yes, the misfire persists in cylinder three. There's no damage that I can see. I am taking my car in on Tuesday (it's the long weekend here everything is closed) to have my car diagnosed. They're going to do a compression test, etc. I hope it is something simple that I have missed as opposed to cylinder three being shot and having to do an engine re-build of some sort.

I'll keep everyone updated as I go along.

[mukixt]

Update?

[Quattritude]

Nope, not yet. I am going to the mechanic in the afternoon today for them to do a compression test. My mechanic is saying it could be the piston rings. We'll find out soon enough

[SDF1]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16687/P0303/000771

Do you consume oil?
If so, check with APR to do a flash back to stock and then have them do a consumption test. if it fails hope they cover new piston and rings.

[Quattritude]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16687/P0303/000771

Do you consume oil?
If so, check with APR to do a flash back to stock and then have them do a consumption test. if it fails hope they cover new piston and rings.

No, the car doesn't really consume oil. I put in like a quart of oil every 7-8000 km so I am guessing its not that bad?

My car is out of warranty, they wouldn't still cover it would they? My mechanic tells me chances are cyl 3's piston rings is fucked

[Quattritude]

So the mechanic didn't do a compression test but scanned the car and saw it misfiring and looked at the rate it was misfiring and was quick to blame piston rings. I kept asking for a compression test but they never did one so i became a bit skeptical.

I bought a compression tester and tested the compression in each cylinder. Had the following results:

Cyl 1: 180
Cyl 2: 175
Cyl 3: 179
Cyl 4: 180

I don't think there is anything wrong internally. I think the connectors for the coil packs might be detective. I'm going to take my car to my fiancé's uncle's shop. I was avoiding it till now because it is over 100km away and i didn't want to drive it that far while it is misfiring. I just got CAA so I'm going to get it towed there.

Just an FYI for anyone who deals with something like this in the future...even if your CEL isn't flashing or solid at high RPMS or high speed and even if your car feels smooth at high RPM or high speed, chances are you're still misfiring even though the CEL is only flashing at low RPM or idle. I was able to see this first hand while I was data logging while driving. It wasn't misfiring as often as when i was idling but it still was misfiring a fair amount for me to be concerned. The fact that it wasn't misfiring as often at high RPM or high speed makes it smoother which is why we typically think it only misfires at idle.

Also, while data logging, cylinder 3 was constantly misfiring while cylinder 1 was misfiring every once in a while. Perhaps they're linked in some way? But, the car never picks it up or gives a CEL for cylinder 1.

Just to summarize so far what i have done (in this order):

- Spark Plugs
- Coil Packs
- Changed To Aftermarket Intercooler (didnt think it was linked...just a mod i always wanted to do and i swapped this after the issue started)
- Carbon Build Up Cleaning
- PCV Valve
- Injector for Cylinder 3
- Compression Test (180, 175, 179, 180)


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[STA4]

Don't forget to add carbon cleaning to your list [;)]

[Quattritude]

Lmao fuck my life that was the worst part. Adding to the list


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[inNout]

I had this issue and it was bad gas.
But i think you already went through a whole tank of gas and refilled....

[Quattritude]

I had this issue and it was bad gas.
But i think you already went through a whole tank of gas and refilled....

You had misfires in one cylinder or all? Perhaps a bad fuel filter but i would think misfires would occur in all cylinders at that point no? Mind you it doesnt cost much...might just do it anyway


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[SDF1]

could be intake manifold.

post a video.

[inNout]

This was when i had bad gas.... The f'n engine trying to free itself from the bay.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ph752LkK8U

[Quattritude]

^ Mine shakes uncontrollably like that or perhaps even worse. I'll post a video later today.

I think it's the wiring for either coil packs or injector. Car will be in the shop next week Tuesday for now it sits and collects dust

[SDF1]

Update?

[Quattritude]

Ended up bring it to Eurocharged. They're taking a look at it right now http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/26/5881b1c967228e071952307f1f9b0a07.jpg


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[Quattritude]

https://vimeo.com/128886573


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[Quattritude]

https://vimeo.com/128886841


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[Quattritude]

You can hear a terrible clicking noise. Also, the video doesn't do the shaking of the engine any justice


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[Elliott]

Very interested to see what the issue is. You sure your plugs were gapped correctly? Possibly an ECU issue sending incorrect signals to cyl 3.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Usually a vac leak will cause misfires at idle. Have them to a boost leak test. Seeing that you installed an aftermarket intercooler there very well could be a leak somewhere.

Do you have a boost gauge installed?

Jason

[Quattritude]

The plugs came pre-gapped actually from ECS Tuning. Also, if that was the case, it would misfire in more cylinders due to me swapping them out cylinder to cylinder to see if the misfires follow. They think it may be the cam follower...i have my doubts but we'll see soon.

I never thought about it being the ECU but at this fucking point anything is possible


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[Elliott]

The cam follower was a common issue with the older (B7) 2.0T's but I've actually never heard of that failure on the B8's.

[Quattritude]

Yea, they ruled it out right after i posted. Such an unusual issue, everyones left scratching their heads


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[Quattritude]

Usually a vac leak will cause misfires at idle. Have them to a boost leak test. Seeing that you installed an aftermarket intercooler there very well could be a leak somewhere.

Do you have a boost gauge installed?

Jason

I installed the intercooler after i had this issue. Car misfires at both idle and while moving just worse when idling. And no, unfortunately i don't have a boost gauge


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[Fburg A4]

well hopefully the shop can figure it out. that is what they get paid to do. lets see if they earn their money today

[Quattritude]

Turns out i didnt do the compression test properly. Cyl 3 is getting compression but its about 30 lower than the rest and is stuttering. They think it has to do with the top of the engine not the lower end. They're opening the head tomorrow or the day after. Something in there is fucked up or loose apparently


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[Quattritude]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/28/4377d244e22def0e582aa6f891ee3f57.jpg

A little update


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[Crucible35]

I had the same thing....misfires in cylinder three....CEL, sometimes flashing. In my case, they could not diagnose at the dealership. I took it to an independent shop and they stuck a camera in cylinder three. They could see the issue right away....somehow a hole between the water jacket and cylinder three has coolant leaking directly into the cylinder....new block required.
Remedy? I signed the paperwork on a 2015 on Monday. Pick it up next week.

Interesting that we're both in Toronto, both MY 2009 and both Meteor Grey.

[Quattritude]

Well that sucks lol. I dont see myself getting another audi or financing another car for that matter. I'll stick to leasing


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[Elliott]

I had the same thing....misfires in cylinder three....CEL, sometimes flashing. In my case, they could not diagnose at the dealership. I took it to an independent shop and they stuck a camera in cylinder three. They could see the issue right away....somehow a hole between the water jacket and cylinder three has coolant leaking directly into the cylinder....new block required.
Remedy? I signed the paperwork on a 2015 on Monday. Pick it up next week.

Interesting that we're both in Toronto, both MY 2009 and both Meteor Grey.

Wow, that is unusual. I would think AOA would cover something like that given that it was likely a manufacturer defect.


Well that sucks lol. I dont see myself getting another audi or financing another car for that matter. I'll stick to leasing


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Any update? Do they think it's a valve guide or what?

[DoItAllGarage]

I hate to see what you are going through. I've been there!!! I have not been on this site for some time now. If I would have saw your post from the beginning, I would have recommend do a "leak down test". Should only take a tech an hour of labor, but it's the best test for internal engine problems. If they are continuing to find more and more failed engine parts, then tell them to R&I a used motor and pay them a few an hour for the tearing down the current engine (removal of head, etc). Moving forward ask them to quote you how many hours it will take to complete the job (whatever you decide). Their hours are not made up off the top of their head, it's from Alldata, Mitchell, or some repair software.

From the picture, they are not to far from pulling the whole engine.

[Quattritude]

Thanks man. They did a leak test down test and everything checked out. They believe it its the valve lifter for cylinder 3 so they're swapping that out. They quoted me using Alldata. I'll update when i find out more


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[Quattritude]

Apparently its going to cost me $3000 with parts and labor...fuck me right?

[Fburg A4]

Wow, what parts? And that is in addition to what they have already done? But yes, fyl

[Quattritude]

Well it is for 20 hours of labor, parts (valve lifters - 6 of them, gaskets and some misc. bullshit) and good ol' Canadian taxes

[Elliott]

20 hours of labor?! Good lawd, time to buy a tool set.

[Quattritude]

20 hours of labor?! Good lawd, time to buy a tool set.

If you check I did a bunch of stuff myself prior to giving up and handing the car over. I ran out of ideas and frankly I wouldn't tackle changing the valve lifters myself

[Elliott]

^I know, I'm just giving you a hard time.

So what are these valve lifters? Is it the same as the roller cam followers? As seen in this pic.

http://i.imgur.com/0yw2BBt.png

EDIT: Anyone interested in learning about the valve lift system on our 2.0T should watch this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWrrS4FoAQI

[Quattritude]

I think the valve lifters are the things in the middle of the picture you posted.

My car should be ready for pick up early next week. They received the parts today

[Fburg A4]

Interesting the lifters cause low compression. Are they too full of oil and keep the valve from fully closing or something? Idk, hopefully it fixes the problem

[Quattritude]

Yea, that's why cylinder 3 had issues holding compression. Not too sure of the exact issue but I will keep everyone updated once I know everything and hopefully this solves the issue

[Quattritude]

So they put everything back together but now the car still slightly misfires when it's cold, once it warms up misfires go away..... i hate this fucking car lol

[STA4]

Happy to hear your problem is (mostly) solved. Which shop did you take the car to and how much damage did it do to the wallet?

[Quattritude]

Happy to hear your problem is (mostly) solved. Which shop did you take the car to and how much damage did it do to the wallet?

So after they did some tests it turns out that the lifters did not solve the issue and its still there, which sucks ass. The shop I took it to is Eurocharged Canada and the estimate they provided to me (if the problem was to be solved with the lifters) was $2,900 tax in and that was for the following:

- 20 Hours of Labor (Removing head, replacing lifters and putting head back)
- Oil & Oil Change (obv. after removing head, etc)
- Coolant
- Gaskets & Misc Shit

I just got off the phone with them and I was quite desperate to just pick my car off and saying fuck it and drop it off to the dealership but after talking to the owner at Eurocharged, I decided against it. He assured me they are doing everything to figure out the issue with no extra cost to me. He just ordered a used ECU because that is one of the only things left that can cause the issue. He said if that doesn't do it, he will remove the head again (with no cost to me) and try to figure out what is wrong. So far it appears that they have been honest with me and they are helping me out with the issue so I am going to leave the car there.

PART OUT

Regardless of whether or not the car gets repaired or not, I will be selling it so I will be parting out. I literally want nothing to do with anything that has four rings on it lol. I am already eyeing another car that I am interested in. If you're interested in any of the parts in my sig, shoot me a text. I'll be preparing a part-out thread out with prices. Stay tuned.

[TJet1.8]

Damn...I also have a Meteor Gray A4 B8 with the same issue...Cylinder 3 misfires on mine as well.

Have replaced plugs (twice), coilpacks twice (stock first then R8's), almost finished a tank with Fuel Injector cleaner....nothing fixed!!
I feel like we are on parallel paths...[headbang]

The strange thing is, we had rain this morning with generally warm/humid whether (as you know...I'm not far from you) and....NO MISFIRES!!! [o_o]
(WTF??!)

VERY interested in your outcome.

i am currently going through an Oil Consumption test, car used 1L of oil per ~1000Km's.
The dealer performed a Stage 1 fix (replaced oil separator, front seal and bolt, ECU flash) and I am now using 1L per ~3500km's.(estimated).

I sure hope I don't have to get my engine torn down like you...[mad]

Keep us updated...and good luck [up]

[PhxPhil]

I am posting to follow your post. I am having same problem. Once temp hit 110* here in Phoenix AZ started having a problem on cyl 3. Replaced coil packs, next is spark plugs.

I was hoping for a resolution on your issue.

[Quattritude]

Wow, more and more people with the same issue and always on cyl 3....I wonder what the significance of cyl 3 is..

[SDF1]

When they were doing Stage 2 for me, they found Cyl 3 being scared and replaced my block...

[TJet1.8]

So my oil light finally came on at 2973Km's worth of travel while on Stage 1 test.

Dealer has the car now and initially gave me a loaner new Black A3...Seat adjuster not working and the seat sitting far too low for me to drive (piece of crap).
So they apologize and give me a new white A3...it starts raining and the intermittent rain sensing wipers don't work (holly crap...really??!!).

Anyways...back on topic.
In speaking with the service advisor, he "believes" I need a de-carbonization performed on the valves to fix the misfire I was experiencing.
However, after running injector cleaner for a full tank, the problem has subsided about 95%...there is still some mild misfires, but no where near as bad as it was.

I just might take them up on that de-carbonization as I want my car to be 100%.

Problem is...in reading many forums, there seems to be mixed results with this.
Not sure what to do at this point...[:/]

[TJet1.8]

When they were doing Stage 2 for me, they found Cyl 3 being scared and replaced my block...

Hmm...when I initially changed my plugs, I noticed 2 out of 4 had exceptionally more carbon built up on them.
Problem is I wasn't aware of this issue back then and didn't keep track of which cylinders they came out of...but I believe they were from the middle of the engine[rolleyes]

[Quattritude]

So my oil light finally came on at 2973Km's worth of travel while on Stage 1 test.

Dealer has the car now and initially gave me a loaner new Black A3...Seat adjuster not working and the seat sitting far too low for me to drive (piece of crap).
So they apologize and give me a new white A3...it starts raining and the intermittent rain sensing wipers don't work (holly crap...really??!!).

Anyways...back on topic.
In speaking with the service advisor, he "believes" I need a de-carbonization performed on the valves to fix the misfire I was experiencing.
However, after running injector cleaner for a full tank, the problem has subsided about 95%...there is still some mild misfires, but no where near as bad as it was.

I just might take them up on that de-carbonization as I want my car to be 100%.

Problem is...in reading many forums, there seems to be mixed results with this.
Not sure what to do at this point...[:/]

Audi's reliability is a joke lol. If they're making you pay for the carbon build up cleaning, just do it yourself.

[TJet1.8]

So I picked up my A4 today, it didn't qualify for the piston and ring replacement [mad]

I drilled the service adviser and finally got the criteria Audi of Canada uses to determine if they will do the Stage 2 service.
Apparently, the engine must consume 500 or more Milli-liters per 1000Km's before they consider Stage 2.

Audi believes it is normal for an engine to use 7.5 Liters of oil per oil change [headbang]
Hell...that's 1.5 oil changes per service interval (unbelievable).
Wow...what BS.

I'll wait a few months and have them do it again.
I actually called Audi of Canada about this, they couldn't (wouldn't) do anything.
The adviser, however, told me to keep all receipts for oil I purchase to top up.
The Stage 1 test is covered once per 40,000Km's, if I want to do it again sooner...it will likely cost me ~$350.
Audi of Canada told me to keep that receipt as well.
If next time they do approve the Stage 2, then I can submit "all" my receipts for reimbursement.

And the decarb at the dealer?....got a quote for $988 + Tax [o_o]

Hmmm...what's that smell?...must be a 335xi...[rolleyes]

[SDF1]

So I picked up my A4 today, it didn't qualify for the piston and ring replacement [mad]

I drilled the service adviser and finally got the criteria Audi of Canada uses to determine if they will do the Stage 2 service.
Apparently, the engine must consume 500 or more Milli-liters per 1000Km's before they consider Stage 2.

Audi believes it is normal for an engine to use 7.5 Liters of oil per oil change [headbang]
Hell...that's 1.5 oil changes per service interval (unbelievable).
Wow...what BS.

I'll wait a few months and have them do it again.
I actually called Audi of Canada about this, they couldn't (wouldn't) do anything.
The adviser, however, told me to keep all receipts for oil I purchase to top up.
The Stage 1 test is covered once per 40,000Km's, if I want to do it again sooner...it will likely cost me ~$350.
Audi of Canada told me to keep that receipt as well.
If next time they do approve the Stage 2, then I can submit "all" my receipts for reimbursement.

And the decarb at the dealer?....got a quote for $988 + Tax [o_o]

Hmmm...what's that smell?...must be a 335xi...[rolleyes]

You can do the test once per 40,000km or once per year no?

By the way, they replaced my block, I had a new intake manifold a month before, new spark plugs, new timing chain and tensionner. I still have low rpm missfire but they aren't enough to trigger any errors.
I wonder if it's all software/quality of gas/fuel flow or injectors getting coughed up.

[TJet1.8]

You can do the test once per 40,000km or once per year no?

By the way, they replaced my block, I had a new intake manifold a month before, new spark plugs, new timing chain and tensionner. I still have low rpm missfire but they aren't enough to trigger any errors.
I wonder if it's all software/quality of gas/fuel flow or injectors getting coughed up.

Not sure about the Stage 1 once per year, both my dealer and Audi Canada didn't mention that...doesn't mean it isn't so.
I am going to call Audi Canada again on Monday to find out.

As for my misfire issue, initially the problem didn't really subside after using 3/4 of a tank with the injector cleaner.
BUT...the last 1/4 of a tank changed everything [>_>].

It would seem that my A4 misfire has for the most part stopped.
It's not 100%...but I did notice a considerable difference for the better.
I won't be convinced after a couple of weeks pass...but so far so good.

Right now, I would say it is about 95% better...we'll see...

[TJet1.8]

Wow, more and more people with the same issue and always on cyl 3....I wonder what the significance of cyl 3 is..

Yes...seems like a common issue...but not a lot of info about this yet.

Any updates on your issue?

[Quattritude]

Nope. They got the ECU in yesterday and began work on it again. Will find out soon.

[Quattritude]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/23/f2c5a319116029b5b352f432464f21d5.jpg

I have begun parting my vehicle out. Here are the prices


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[Fburg A4]

So did they fix the compression issue at least?

[Quattritude]

Not sure yet

[hammer.time]

I had the same issue with mine. I would get flashing CEL every so often around 2000RPM while under light throttle. Then once a week or so I would get a solid CEL on cold startup, and I'd have to clear myself. The code was always for cyl 3 misfire. I tried all of the same fixes, minus tearing the whole motor apart. This was my solution.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t12/Jhamm12/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150627_151353_zpsahjxgiuy.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/Jhamm12/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150627_151353_zpsahjxgiuy.jpg.html)

[Quattritude]

This thread has become "oh hey i had the same issue but i said fuck it and leased a new one" or "heres my new car" LOL.


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[helldriver]

Had mine in the shop for this a few days ago, had a bad injector at cyl 3 and they did a carbon clean in the intake, idles smooth now and no misfires..

[Quattritude]

Had mine in the shop for this a few days ago, had a bad injector at cyl 3 and they did a carbon clean in the intake, idles smooth now and no misfires..

lol lucky you


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[TJet1.8]

Had mine in the shop for this a few days ago, had a bad injector at cyl 3 and they did a carbon clean in the intake, idles smooth now and no misfires..

They?
As in the Stealership or another shop?

My Dealer had suggested the same, but they also replace the injector seals as they become brittle over time apparently and can get damaged in the manifold removal process.

I would get another shop do decarb, but not sure how thorough they would be...and if they would replace the seals properly.
Our engines are so damn sensitive, I would be pissed if I got my car back from a decarb and it ran worse due to a leak somewhere...[:(]

I might just fork over the money to the Stealership...[facepalm]

[helldriver]

Yes an audi dealership, but I spoke to soon, engine still bucking but not as bad at idle, and CEL is still on, going back tomorrow, CPO expires in 2 days....

[TJet1.8]

Any updates?...all around [wrench]

[Quattritude]

Any updates?...all around [wrench]

Not really, they still tell me the ECU is coming in....my patience is running out.

I am waiting on them to remove parts off my car as well and they said they were going to on Tuesday but I called right now and they haven't even started....[headbang]

[Quattritude]

Update: ECU came in today so I should find out shortly what is up with the car.

Also heres an update on my parts

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/2b7e41e53599a9ae5d57e3784c6d907e.jpg

Price has been lowered on remaining items

[stamphytt]

Have been following this thread for a while after having issues with my 2013 B8 A4 misfiring intermittently on cylinder 1. Some background info, Australian, it has 30,000kms on it, has an APR stage 1 tune and is driven hard...
This progressively got worse until it was pretty much not firing at all on cylinder 1. Before taking it in I swapped all the coils for new R8 Red coils, and replaced all spark plugs, this made no difference so I put everything back how it was and took it too have the tune removed and then took it too the local audi service centre. I initially I was told it was a failed ignition coil... I just said ok and waited for the next phone call... Next call said that they replaced the coil and it made no difference so they compression tested it and found low compression on cylinder 1. Next step was remove engine and investigate further. Was told on Friday that they had found a failed piston ring, I was at work so didn't get a chance to press for more information but they have advised me that they are putting a new engine in... Looks like I'll be waiting around 2 weeks for that one. Anyone else had a similar issue? Would it be a result of my tune?

Looks like they found no trace of the tune as it is all covered under warranty


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[Quattritude]

Who knows, just be happy its covered under warranty lol

[roxta]

Had the same issues misfire cylinder 2. My regular mechanic couldn't figure it out, did all the things on this thread.
Took it to a specialist VW guy. He did a leak down test found it was was pouring out oil badly on cylinder 2. Replaced my breather valve as it was clogged with oil and said that most likely I've got a cracked oil ring. It's driveable now no misfire, he said I should get some mileage till it comes back, and to open the throttle up every now and then to clear the breather.
Getting quotes for a rebuild as out of warranty.

[Quattritude]

So i went in to Eurocharged yesterday to see if there was any progress and they hadn't done anything yet with the ECU. It has been 5 weeks exactly today (June 12th) since they ordered it. June 12th i had called in and told them i want to pick my car up and that i was tired of waiting but he told me he had already ordered an ECU. Originally they told me they ordered it used through eBay and it's coming from the States and then when i followed up with them 2 weeks after to see what was going on i was told "oh were working on it" so i thought great its in! I go into their shop and go the ecu is in right and i get a "oh its special order from Germany, it takes a while"....wtf? When i went in yesterday he tells me it came in from Germany and they ordered it on June 25th and they ordered it directly from Audi and it will cost me $1,017.00....wtf?!?? So clearly on the 12th when i spoke to him he was lying in order for me not to pick my car up. And plus i would have never gave them consent if it was going to cost $1000 without any guarantee of the car getting fixed.

Here is where it gets really stupid. They took the valve cover off and this other shit in order to get to my valve lifters to replace them because they "thought" thats what was causing it. Then before they realized it wasnt the issue he gave me a $2900.00 tax in bill for the "fix" as an estimate. But when they started the car, nothing had changed and it was misfiring like complete shit. The compression in cylinder 3 had not changed. Now to my knowledge, if the mechanic does not diagnose the issue correctly and goes about ordering parts and spending time on it...hows that my problem? So yesterday i go in to pay for them removing my parts (coils, exhaust, test pipe, short shifter, etc) and after i pay the bill, he tells me i still owe my $2900.00 bill. Why should i have to pay it when NOTHING was fixed?! Why should i have to pay for him to play "process of elimination". I took it to a mechanic so that they can diagnose the issue properly. If i wanted to pay to do process of elimination, i would have fucking continued to do it myself!!

Then he tells me dont worry you can pay it later, i was in a rush so i didnt talk to him about but he mentioned the ECU might not fix the issue and then they have to take the engine apart further to see whats wrong. So he expects me to pay for the ECU :|!! The bill will come up to $4000.00 and no fix in sight! Then let me guess, more issues found when the engine is taken apart or NOW he tells me i have to rebuild my engine and i have to spend another $3-4,000?

Edit: i just did some searching and apparently in the province of Ontario if you issue an estimate to fix a vehicle, the actually invoice can only be 10% higher once the issue has been solved....this might save me BUT i shouldnt even have to pay the initial fucking bill because nothing was solved. I am going in today and I'm leaving with my car. Already spoke to my lawyer. This should be interesting

[STA4]

So i went in to Eurocharged yesterday to see if there was any progress and they hadn't done anything yet with the ECU. It has been 5 weeks exactly today (June 12th) since they ordered it. June 12th i had called in and told them i want to pick my car up and that i was tired of waiting but he told me he had already ordered an ECU. Originally they told me they ordered it used through eBay and it's coming from the States and then when i followed up with them 2 weeks after to see what was going on i was told "oh were working on it" so i thought great its in! I go into their shop and go the ecu is in right and i get a "oh its special order from Germany, it takes a while"....wtf? When i went in yesterday he tells me it came in from Germany and they ordered it on June 25th and they ordered it directly from Audi and it will cost me $1,017.00....wtf?!?? So clearly on the 12th when i spoke to him he was lying in order for me not to pick my car up. And plus i would have never gave them consent if it was going to cost $1000 without any guarantee of the car getting fixed.

Here is where it gets really stupid. They took the valve cover off and this other shit in order to get to my valve lifters to replace them because they "thought" thats what was causing it. Then before they realized it wasnt the issue he gave me a $2900.00 tax in bill for the "fix" as an estimate. But when they started the car, nothing had changed and it was misfiring like complete shit. The compression in cylinder 3 had not changed. Now to my knowledge, if the mechanic does not diagnose the issue correctly and goes about ordering parts and spending time on it...hows that my problem? So yesterday i go in to pay for them removing my parts (coils, exhaust, test pipe, short shifter, etc) and after i pay the bill, he tells me i still owe my $2900.00 bill. Why should i have to pay it when NOTHING was fixed?! Why should i have to pay for him to play "process of elimination". I took it to a mechanic so that they can diagnose the issue properly. If i wanted to pay to do process of elimination, i would have fucking continued to do it myself!!

Then he tells me dont worry you can pay it later, i was in a rush so i didnt talk to him about but he mentioned the ECU might not fix the issue and then they have to take the engine apart further to see whats wrong. So he expects me to pay for the ECU :|!! The bill will come up to $4000.00 and no fix in sight! Then let me guess, more issues found when the engine is taken apart or NOW he tells me i have to rebuild my engine and i have to spend another $3-4,000?

Edit: i just did some searching and apparently in the province of Ontario if you issue an estimate to fix a vehicle, the actually invoice can only be 10% higher once the issue has been solved....this might save me BUT i shouldnt even have to pay the initial fucking bill because nothing was solved. I am going in today and I'm leaving with my car. Already spoke to my lawyer. This should be interesting

Wow. I hope you have everything in writing. Good luck.

[Quattritude]

Thanks, ill update the thread after i visit them today. Should be there in the next hour


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[Quattritude]

So after speaking to the shop, they said they never said that I am supposed to pay for the ECU and that is something they are going to cover on their end which is great. I still have to pay the 2900 apparently because they claim the lifters were faulty anyway. I cannot really prove otherwise at this point. If the ECU fixes the issue, I will know by today or tomorrow. Frankly I just want the whole thing to be done and over with.

Also, on the 12th when they said they ordered an ECU they ordered a used one which they could not use, that is why they ordered a new one from Audi and that's why it took so long to get in. I don't understand why they just wouldn't tell me the truth unless they were embarrassed that they didn't know they cannot use a used ECU...who knows.

[Quattritude]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/20/97fcb0e228dfcda09e7c1b6770aa8a49.jpg

Updated the parts list. Only 3 things left and i dropped the price on the rear valance and intercooler.


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[Quattritude]

So i was told my car was going to be ready this week either Monday or Tueday. I gave Vlad (the owner) a text on Tuesday after receiving no news on Monday asking him if its going to be ready soon and he tells me they are just waiting on the ECU code from Audi. I wait till the next day and shoot him another text after not hearing back only to be told that Audi did not provide them with a code to unlock the ECU so my car has to be towed to an Audi dealership today (Wednesday). I asked him when it will be ready and he says that as soon as it is, one of his techs will pick it up but they will be away till Monday for Blacklist Rally.

Heres when it gets funny. A friend of mine posted a picture on Instagram of his car getting serviced at Eurocharged on Thursday and my car is behind his collecting dust. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/24/7ce1ee61c4fee3f108665be809bb3b42.jpg

Check the convo out below

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/24/5c4a896f7b1142a4652896ec27281e83.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/24/ced6ecc5de29fca62a99863a536ea2fa.jpg


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[amartin173]

My car has been something similar . At 1800 rpms the epc light will flash . And the check engine is on. The code is for the camshaft sensor . I replaced the camshaft/crankshaft sensors just incase and I still get the same thing. Now the car is turning off on me at red lights. Did you get the epc light on yours ?
My engine is good I have a gut feeling it's electrical something with the wiring of the sensor

[Quattritude]

My car has been something similar . At 1800 rpms the epc light will flash . And the check engine is on. The code is for the camshaft sensor . I replaced the camshaft/crankshaft sensors just incase and I still get the same thing. Now the car is turning off on me at red lights. Did you get the epc light on yours ?
My engine is good I have a gut feeling it's electrical something with the wiring of the sensor

I never had my epc light flash, your best bet is doing some searching on the forums and see if anyone had any similar symptoms


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[amartin173]

I never had my epc light flash, your best bet is doing some searching on the forums and see if anyone had any similar symptoms


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Trust me I have . All I've seen are people with older models having similar issues but it fixed once the sensor was replaced it just died and doesn't want to start fml

[Quattritude]

Trust me I have . All I've seen are people with older models having similar issues but it fixed once the sensor was replaced it just died and doesn't want to start fml

Do a scan and report back with codes


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[Quattritude]

Just wanted to provide an update on my car. As mentioned in a previous post they told me that my car would be sent to Audi but they didn't send it. I texted them the following week on Tuesday, July 28th to ask for updates and to see if the car was at Audi. I was told that Pfaff Audi was going to pick the car up and they had waited that long to send it because they were missing a C-clip for the shifter and wanted that complete before they sent the car over there.

I texted again on Saturday to ask for an update and was told the car is at the dealership and that they would have an update on Tuesday (yesterday August 3rd). I didn't hear back from them and frankly, I had no idea whether or not the car is at Audi or not so I took it upon myself to call Pfaff Audi to see if it indeed is there. At first they had a hard time locating the car because it was not listed under my name or the shop. After providing the VIN, they were able to locate the car. Apparently a tow truck had come and dropped the car off on Thursday, July 30th and provided no contact information or what the car even requires done on it!! Who the fuck does that?! Why would you drop a car off to a dealership with no contact information or any work order!

At this point I was very frustrated because it is now the 5th of August and nothing has been done. I let Audi know that Eurocharged Canada no longer has any authority to touch my car or have it picked up and only I can do so. They said that was fine and they were going to program the new ECU. If the ECU solves the issue, I am going to pay Audi directly for the programming and call Vlad at Eurocharged Canada to offer to pay for just the ECU and nothing else considering all the other charges that they want to charge me for is bullshit (i.e. 20 labor hours to remove the head and then say "oh we its the lifters lets charge you for this" and then "oh wait it didn't solve anything but you still have to pay for it"). Chances are they're not going to accept it but I'll PayPal them the money for that portion and if they take me to court, then it be it. I have everything documented pretty damn well. I am just happy they no longer have my car. If the ECU does not fix the issue, I'll let Audi figure out the problem.

Here is the convo i had with Vlad the owner of Eurocharged:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/05/93133ebafcf06cd082860bf4dcae7e0b.jpg

[jcundy2]

So I've got the same issue on my car. Started with a terrible clicking noise and engine shaking violently. luckily i was only a few hundred feet down the road from the dealer. Just got a call back today saying that they think it may be a connecting rod bearing. (this should have been replaced when the motor was out for the part 2 oil consumption repairs). He also said the codes were reading a sporadic misfire on cylinder 3. Now they want $1500 just to pull the motor again, and 'maybe' find out whats wrong. I'm hoping that if i go this route, that it will be something that should've been repaired when part 2 oil repairs were done ( so AOA will hopefully pay for it.)
my car is currently sitting at 76k miles so i dont have any warrenty, however the part 2 oil repairs were done around june.
Any suggestions?

[Quattritude]

So I've got the same issue on my car. Started with a terrible clicking noise and engine shaking violently. luckily i was only a few hundred feet down the road from the dealer. Just got a call back today saying that they think it may be a connecting rod bearing. (this should have been replaced when the motor was out for the part 2 oil consumption repairs). He also said the codes were reading a sporadic misfire on cylinder 3. Now they want $1500 just to pull the motor again, and 'maybe' find out whats wrong. I'm hoping that if i go this route, that it will be something that should've been repaired when part 2 oil repairs were done ( so AOA will hopefully pay for it.)
my car is currently sitting at 76k miles so i dont have any warrenty, however the part 2 oil repairs were done around june.
Any suggestions?

You don't have many options. If you're out of warranty, you're pretty much shit out of luck. I'm surprised they can't tell whats wrong without pulling the motor though. If you need more help, make a new thread. This one is practically dead. I am just updating it to document my stuff lol

[englishbay]

There seems to be a lot of threads about pulling engines. Has anyone looked into the cost of a new engine or is it cheaper to keep fixing the one that you have.

[Quattritude]

Got a call from Audi today and the new ECU didn't solve a god damn thing (wow big surprise lol). But, they were able to find out that it was the valve guides that were the issue and apparently it will cost a couple grand to fix...fucking great.

I think at this point I am going to sell my car as-is and just get rid of it. I'm done spending money on this car but I plan on not giving Eurocharged Canada a single penny. Audi was able to figure out the issue in a single day and after 2.5 months at Eurocharged Canada, they were not able to figure out the issue. Audi was literally scratching their heads in confusion as to why they would even want to replace the ECU when the issue apparently was very apparent.

[Quattritude]

There seems to be a lot of threads about pulling engines. Has anyone looked into the cost of a new engine or is it cheaper to keep fixing the one that you have.

Most of the time it's cheaper to just replace your engine with a used one as opposed to try to fix the one you have especially when it comes down to valves, pistons, piston rings, etc due to the crazy labor costs and misc. parts.

[Quattritude]

So apparently my best bet is to get a used engine or used block (according to Pfaff Audi) and go that route as opposed to having the block machined, etc, etc. Pfaff Audi has been nice enough to try to source that for me and I will find out by Monday what the damage is. Apparently a new block from them is $4,100 plus taxes...so fuck that.

While they source that, I will be sourcing a built K24A engine to throw in....300whp all motor [drive][race]

[STA4]

So apparently my best bet is to get a used engine or used block (according to Pfaff Audi) and go that route as opposed to having the block machined, etc, etc. Pfaff Audi has been nice enough to try to source that for me and I will find out by Monday what the damage is. Apparently a new block from them is $4,100 plus taxes...so fuck that.

While they source that, I will be sourcing a built K24A engine to throw in....300whp all motor [drive][race]

Valve guides? How many km on your motor...105k km? Why a new block...can't they simply replace them or a new cylinder head?

I guess you're going Honda. What model?

[Quattritude]

Valve guides? How many km on your motor? Why a new block...can't they simply replace them or a new cylinder head?

I guess you're going Honda. What model?

Apparently its labor intensive and its 50/50 because there may be more damage so it ends up not being worth it. But its a typical Audi thing...you can have low washer fluid and they'll recommend a new block.

No, no Honda just making a civic joke. At this point I'm probably going to buy a carriage and two healthy horses.

[jcundy2]

lol quattritude, did you have any luck with AOA giving you any bit of assistace? I will be calling them today or Monday after I talk to the dealer and make a decision. I have to call back dealer today and tell them my decision. They believe it is the connecting rod bearing still. The car did sound somewhat like this - https://youtu.be/5i39i-PyQxA
the part that pisses me off the most, is when they had my motor out for the oil consumption job they called and said that 2 of the rod bearings were scored and would be replacing them. When I looked up the part and saw how cheap it was I figured why not just do all of them. I called the guy back later in the day saying that, and he said it wasn't necessary and that decided they only needed to actually do one of them. So I am hoping that the new one failed or the other one that was supposedly scored failed. If that is the case, do you guys think AOA will pay for it? considering the dealer should have originally replaced it when the motor was pulled the first time?

[Quattritude]

I am in Canada so AOC and no, because warranty is out and they couldn't careless anyway.

In that case AOA may pay for it...who knows. I would definitely give it a shot

[Quikjeff]

My epc did flash and the CEL was on. I gored it for a few days then it died in the driveway refusing to start. Scanned and got a P0016 cam/crank sensor. Got them both and threw them in. No help. Kept Cranking until I ended up with no compression. Timing chain tensioner failed, intake valves were all bent. Pulled the head, replaced the valves, but it is still not running right. Looking for more ideas on here tonight. Last piece of euro trash I ever buy.

[amartin173]

My epc did flash and the CEL was on. I gored it for a few days then it died in the driveway refusing to start. Scanned and got a P0016 cam/crank sensor. Got them both and threw them in. No help. Kept Cranking until I ended up with no compression. Timing chain tensioner failed, intake valves were all bent. Pulled the head, replaced the valves, but it is still not running right. Looking for more ideas on here tonight. Last piece of euro trash I ever buy.

Same here brother except my tensioner nor timing chain failed. We checked it out and everything is fine engine running good . Only issue is the epc light keeps coming on so the car goes into limp mode . Any idea what it could be ? I replaced those sensors .

[van462]

My epc did flash and the CEL was on. I gored it for a few days then it died in the driveway refusing to start. Scanned and got a P0016 cam/crank sensor. Got them both and threw them in. No help. Kept Cranking until I ended up with no compression. Timing chain tensioner failed, intake valves were all bent. Pulled the head, replaced the valves, but it is still not running right. Looking for more ideas on here tonight. Last piece of euro trash I ever buy.

Was the crank pulley removed? The crank pulley keys to a timing gar and that then keys to the crankshaft. It is possible to have the crank pulley keyed properly to the timing gear and the timing gear off a tooth from the crankshaft. Timing chain marks will look right but they won't be timed to the crank. This should trigger a P0016 code just as a loose timing chain would. Any codes remaining? May be worth removing the N205 cam timing actuator and see if the little shaft inside moves in and out smoothly.

Edit- I see where you have replaced the timing chain so the crank pulley had to have been off to remove the lower cover.

[Quattritude]

UPDATE:

Just wanted to provide an update for everyone who has been following this thread or is experiencing similar issues. As stated previously, my car was diagnosed by Audi as a fucked up valve guide in cylinder 3. They told me that they recommend a new cylinder head due to swapping a new valve guide along with getting the current cylinder head machined is labor intensive. They quoted me with $3850 just for the labor portion and that does not include parts, fluids, machining, etc. But if I were to replace the head, they quoted me approx. $4000 for a new cylinder head plus again, $3850 for the labor. This does not include misc shit like gaskets, fluids, etc. I suspect it would have been well over the $8000 mark plus taxes.

At first I felt depressed and didn't know what to do. I built up the courage and said fuck it and decided to do it myself. I was able to find a used but working cylinder head for $1000 shipped to my door (which is arriving on the 22nd). Meanwhile I began the process of removing my own cylinder head (NOTE: specialty tools are required to do this. It cost me around $200). I also ordered all the required gaskets because all of the gaskets are basically one-time use and better safe than sorry. This cost me like another $100. I might one day find enough time to write-up a how-to on this. It was fairly straight forward but you have to be organized with your shit. You can't just take a bolt or screw off and just toss it on the ground. What I did was, I grabbed ziplock bags, labelled them for example "intake manifold bolts" and put the number of bolts beside that and then threw the bolts inside the baggy. I then put that baggy into a box with all the other bags and parts. I was able to find a proper how-to of it on AllData but there are parts where you'll be left scratching your head.

Lastly, I will be writing up an entire thread based on my experience with those f*ckers at Eurocharged Canada. I will have it literally written as a day-to-day with a lot of pictures, pictures of texts, and invoices. I will post up a link whenever I get around to doing that. To sum it up for now, avoid the shit out of that place. The owner is not only fucking clueless but he tries to rip you off.

I'll keep this thread updated. If anyone has anyone questions or is stuck with something similar, shoot me a pm.

[Fburg A4]

UPDATE:

Just wanted to provide an update for everyone who has been following this thread or is experiencing similar issues. As stated previously, my car was diagnosed by Audi as a fucked up valve guide in cylinder 3. They told me that they recommend a new cylinder head due to swapping a new valve guide along with getting the current cylinder head machined is labor intensive. They quoted me with $3850 just for the labor portion and that does not include parts, fluids, machining, etc. But if I were to replace the head, they quoted me approx. $4000 for a new cylinder head plus again, $3850 for the labor. This does not include misc shit like gaskets, fluids, etc. I suspect it would have been well over the $8000 mark plus taxes.

At first I felt depressed and didn't know what to do. I built up the courage and said fuck it and decided to do it myself. I was able to find a used but working cylinder head for $1000 shipped to my door (which is arriving on the 22nd). Meanwhile I began the process of removing my own cylinder head (NOTE: specialty tools are required to do this. It cost me around $200). I also ordered all the required gaskets because all of the gaskets are basically one-time use and better safe than sorry. This cost me like another $100. I might one day find enough time to write-up a how-to on this. It was fairly straight forward but you have to be organized with your shit. You can't just take a bolt or screw off and just toss it on the ground. What I did was, I grabbed ziplock bags, labelled them for example "intake manifold bolts" and put the number of bolts beside that and then threw the bolts inside the baggy. I then put that baggy into a box with all the other bags and parts. I was able to find a proper how-to of it on AllData but there are parts where you'll be left scratching your head.

Lastly, I will be writing up an entire thread based on my experience with those f*ckers at Eurocharged Canada. I will have it literally written as a day-to-day with a lot of pictures, pictures of texts, and invoices. I will post up a link whenever I get around to doing that. To sum it up for now, avoid the shit out of that place. They owner is not only fucking clueless but he tries to rip you off.

I'll keep this thread updated. If anyone has anyone questions or is stuck with something similar, shoot me a pm.
When you write about your experience with Eurocharged, can you knock back a couple beers first? I want the unedited story.

Looking forward to read about the head swap results. Glad you use alldata, it is an excellent resource. I used it for a guide to pull my trans and replace the rear main seal. The money savings is worth the subscription cost.

Hope the swap fixes the misfire issue. I think if more than a week goes by without update, I am going to assume it still misfires and you had to be referred to the loony bin.

[Quattritude]

LOL, honestly dealing with em will lead you to drink.

Honestly, best investment ever. Also, after my experience with Eurocharged, I didn't have it in me to trust another shop and it looked basic enough for me to do it myself anyway.

Crossing my fingers and toes that Audi diagnosed the car properly and it's actually the cylinder head lol.

[Quattritude]

Received the new cylinder head today. Going to finish up removing the old one and installing the new one today. I'll update the thread when I'm done doing so


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[van462]

Is this the correct head? I don't see where the exhaust camshaft "shifters" mount.

[STA4]

Good luck!

Don't forget to make sure you have the updated timing chain tensioner and cam bridge.

[Fburg A4]

Is this the correct head? I don't see where the exhaust camshaft "shifters" mount.
Those are in the valve cover I believe

[Quattritude]

Fuck i believe hes right. My pic disappeared. Here it is again

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[Quattritude]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/23/bdd7649631434791acf16bb62c66a221.jpg


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[Quattritude]

The holes arent there on the valve cover. Fuck me...these idiots sent me a cylinder head for the TSI while their ad said cylinder head for A4 & A5

The cast number is the same on the actual cylinder head. You guys think itll work if i swap their valve covers? Is everything else the same?

Edit: just checked the ad and the pic in the ad had the holes, same cast number and it is a tsfi cylinder head but these geniuses cant even tell the difference so they sent me a tsi cylinder head. My luck keeps getting better lmao

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[Fburg A4]

Hmm that's a good question. Wonder if the internals are the same regarding cams, valves, etc. I assume the valve cover would bolt up find if cylinder head part number is the same unless there are other interfering parts. Maybe just call those dudes up where you purchased it. When you ordered it were you expecting a valve cover?

[Quattritude]

Hmm that's a good question. Wonder if the internals are the same regarding cams, valves, etc. I assume the valve cover would bolt up find if cylinder head part number is the same unless there are other interfering parts. Maybe just call those dudes up where you purchased it. When you ordered it were you expecting a valve cover?

I'm not going to bother risking it. They had sent me a prepaid UPS label so that I can return my cylinder head to them so I will be using that to send them back this cylinder head while they send me another one lol.

[Fburg A4]

I'm not going to bother risking it. They had sent me a prepaid UPS label so that I can return my cylinder head to them so I will be using that to send them back this cylinder head while they send me another one lol.
Man, I am going to start a crowd funding page to pay for the therapy appointments you'll need following this whole ordeal.

[van462]

The exhaust cam would be different as well. It would have to have both sets of lobes that are used in the timing switch.

[Quattritude]

Man, I am going to start a crowd funding page to pay for the therapy appointments you'll need following this whole ordeal.

LOL you have no idea. Its been like this since late May, one thing after another. Can't wait to just sell this car and have it over with


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[Quattritude]

The exhaust cam would be different as well. It would have to have both sets of lobes that are used in the timing switch.

Thx for the heads up!


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[Quattritude]

I finally got around to posting up a thread on eurocharged canada. See it here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/670557-Avoid-Eurocharged-Canada!?p=11068289#post11068289) and feel free to share it on other forums or social media

[Quattritude]

Good luck!

Don't forget to make sure you have the updated timing chain tensioner and cam bridge.

lol not really necessary considering i am not going to keep the car

[STA4]

lol not really necessary considering i am not going to keep the car

True...

Perhaps your story would be better in the Eastern Canada forum.

[Quattritude]

True...

Perhaps your story would be better in the Eastern Canada forum.

Yea good point, ill post it there


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[Beastopher]

This sure has left me speechless and sort of thinking of selling my A4... that really sucks man! I have intermittent misfires on 1&3, never any of the other cylinders.. just 1&3. I sure hope this isn't the issue.

So what brand are you switching to after you part out/sell your A4?

[Quattritude]

This sure has left me speechless and sort of thinking of selling my A4... that really sucks man! I have intermittent misfires on 1&3, never any of the other cylinders.. just 1&3. I sure hope this isn't the issue.

So what brand are you switching to after you part out/sell your A4?

Honestly dude even if you have to pay Audi to diagnose it, do it sooner than later and figure out wtf is wrong with your car. That way if its an expensive fix and its intermittent, you can still get rid of it. Don't make the same mistake i made.

Nothing as of yet. I have a 2011 Dodge Caravan that i use for work and it's fully loaded. I snowboard a lot and have my cargo box and roof rack on there so 6-7 us load up in there and do our snowboard trips so i'm good with this for now :) lol. But i got my motorcycle license last year so im probably going to grab a Ducati 899


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[Quattritude]

Just an update. I got the new head last weekend but i am waiting on one tool: T10352/1. I have been sent the T10352/2 twice now...LOL. So i wait again. I must have done something bad in the past life


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[Quattritude]

I wish i had the car diagnosed at Audi in the 1st place and never dealt with the ******s at Eurocharged. This whole ordeal would have been done 3-4 months ago

[S4'ed]

Update?????

[Quattritude]

Update?????

lol believe it or not the new cylinder head they sent was shit too. Will update when I buy another

[STA4]

lol believe it or not the new cylinder head they sent was shit too. Will update when I buy another

Ouch. Surprised that you haven't lost your marbles.

Same symptoms? Maybe it's not the cylinder head... Any cylinder wall scoring?

[Quattritude]

Ouch. Surprised that you haven't lost your marbles.

Same symptoms? Maybe it's not the cylinder head... Any cylinder wall scoring?

Sorry, should have explained better. Never installed the cylinder head because the camshafts were not positioned correctly.


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[Quattritude]

UPDATE:

Sorry haven't updated this in a while. I returned the cylinder head that I had received from the machine shop in the US.

I now dropped my cylinder head off at a local machine shop yesterday. They inspected my cylinder head and found out that there is indeed a leak from cylinder 3 and that it requires new valve guides and new exhaust valves. Apparently the valve guides and exhaust valves have a terrible amount of carbon build up on them as well which according to them has caused the issue. So we go back to the same old bullshit carbon build up issue with these vehicles. They charged me $100 to diagnose the exact issue with it and it will cost $450 to re-condition and replace the parts (labor). He is going to provide me with a price for parts either tomorrow or Monday. I will update everyone then.

In other news, I just signed the lease for a 2016 Nissan 370Z. I'll be taking delivery of it in March 2016. Guess that's my solution to all of this lol.

[Abu_boost]

UPDATE:

Sorry haven't updated this in a while. I returned the cylinder head that I had received from the machine shop in the US.

I now dropped my cylinder head off at a local machine shop yesterday. They inspected my cylinder head and found out that there is indeed a leak from cylinder 3 and that it requires new valve guides and new exhaust valves. Apparently the valve guides and exhaust valves have a terrible amount of carbon build up on them as well which according to them has caused the issue. So we go back to the same old bullshit carbon build up issue with these vehicles. They charged me $100 to diagnose the exact issue with it and it will cost $450 to re-condition and replace the parts (labor). He is going to provide me with a price for parts either tomorrow or Monday. I will update everyone then.

In other news, I just signed the lease for a 2016 Nissan 370Z. I'll be taking delivery of it in March 2016. Guess that's my solution to all of this lol.

Did this end up getting fixed?

I have the same issue and have been dealing with it for months now.

[Quattritude]

What are the symptoms? Same thing as me? Have you tried a compression test? Is it cylinder 3?

In the end it was a lot of carbon build up on the exhaust valves and messed up valve guides which were replaced. I just finished putting my car back together yesterday. Just have to go out and buy some oil and coolant tomorrow and I am going to give her a start and see if it solved the issue. I'll update you guys then.

[Abu_boost]

What are the symptoms? Same thing as me? Have you tried a compression test? Is it cylinder 3?

In the end it was a lot of carbon build up on the exhaust valves and messed up valve guides which were replaced. I just finished putting my car back together yesterday. Just have to go out and buy some oil and coolant tomorrow and I am going to give her a start and see if it solved the issue. I'll update you guys then.

Ya same issue as what you're describing. I started a thread on it this morning. A shop did a compression test for me and said it was all good. But the misfire always comes up for cylinder 3.

[Quattritude]

Honestly, your best bet is getting Audi to diagnose the issue first (something I regret not doing in the first place). It will save you a lot of time and other shops may not be able to pin point what the issue is. Have Audi diagnose it and you can assess it yourself afterwards and see if you want to attempt to repair it yourself. If it ends up being the same issue as mine and it's something you want to attempt to fix yourself, I can help you as much as possible

Hopefully you get lucky and its something more minor but i can probably help you with that as well. I have practically taken apart this entire engine so i have an idea of what is what

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[Abu_boost]

Honestly, your best bet is getting Audi to diagnose the issue first (something I regret not doing in the first place). It will save you a lot of time and other shops may not be able to pin point what the issue is. Have Audi diagnose it and you can assess it yourself afterwards and see if you want to attempt to repair it yourself. If it ends up being the same issue as mine and it's something you want to attempt to fix yourself, I can help you as much as possible

Hopefully you get lucky and its something more minor but i can probably help you with that as well. I have practically taken apart this entire engine so i have an idea of what is what

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I've taken it to audi several times and just keep getting the run around. They keep saying they don't detect misfires and everything works fine, even tho I've brought it to them with a cel on.

[Quattritude]

Same Audi dealership every time?

Do you have a Vagcom? You're able to view the cylinders and see if they're misfiring, how many times and how often. Regardless of whether or not there is a CEL on or flashing, the car may be misfiring (even slightly). Vagcom will be able to shed light on this. Take it to another Audi dealership and let them know you already Vagcom'd the car and know that it is misfiring and tell them to diagnose why.

Also, what codes are you getting when the CEL comes on?

[Quattritude]

Update:

Turned the car on today and the problem was still there. Nothing changed, not even a bit. Perhaps the cylinder head was not repaired correctly

At this point in time I'm not going to invest anymore time or money into this and will be listing the car for sale as-is. Chances are I won't be very active on the forums anymore, especially once I get my new car but if anyone has any questions or wants any info, shoot me a pm and I'd happy to help.


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[Abu_boost]

Update:

Turned the car on today and the problem was still there. Nothing changed, not even a bit. This means that Audi mis-diagnosed the issue.

At this point in time I'm not going to invest anymore time or money into this and will be listing the car for sale as-is. Chances are I won't be very active on the forums anymore, especially once I get my new car but if anyone has any questions or wants any info, shoot me a pm and I'd happy to help.


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Man I'm sorry to hear that... Idk what to do at this point either

[Quattritude]

Yea, I was pretty sorry about it too lol....I worked pretty damn hard on it, lots of ups and downs. It is what it is man. At the end of the day, look at it like this...it's just a car and you may lose a couple grand but if you honestly can't find out what is wrong with it and have people running you around, just sell it as-is. It's not worth the stress. I'm going to give it a shot and let you know.

[Abu_boost]

Yea, I was pretty sorry about it too lol....I worked pretty damn hard on it, lots of ups and downs. It is what it is man. At the end of the day, look at it like this...it's just a car and you may lose a couple grand but if you honestly can't find out what is wrong with it and have people running you around, just sell it as-is. It's not worth the stress. I'm going to give it a shot and let you know.

I just had a mechanic check it out. He's recommending the high pressure fuel pump located under the hood. I'll give it a shot.

[Quattritude]

Sounds like a long shot. HPFP would cause misfires in all cylinders or more than one, not just cylinder 3.

[Fburg A4]

I almost want to buy the car just so I can figure out what the problem is

[Quattritude]

All yours if you want it to be ;)


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[Fburg A4]

Not sure if you have set your car on fire yet, but I was thinking of some possible causes for your woes that haven't already been addressed (plugs, coils, ecm, head, etc.) One thing I thought of with the car misfiring when warm with single cylinder was something with the intake. I was thinking if there was some sort of small crack on the particular intake runner for cyl 3 it would cause an issue when warm only on cyl 3. I was checking out if a crack in the manifold has happened (aside from the typical runner flap thing blowing out) and I actually saw somebody replaced a manifold because a crack in the plastic seam weld on the manifold occurred. It was a post from 2010 and he explained a crack formed right around where the thumb is in the picture. Other thoughts were intake gasket or fuel injector seal causing vacuum leaks, but I wonder if those were replaced during the course of your other repairs

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/24/3100a0b2db36b1f012086d3de38d752e.jpg

[Quattritude]

The thing is it no longer happens when the car is warm. It happens as soon as it turns on and its almost violent how badly it shakes lol

Ima check the intake again just to be sure though. Already swapped seals and gaskets. Thanks bro


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[Abu_boost]

The thing is it no longer happens when the car is warm. It happens as soon as it turns on and its almost violent how badly it shakes lol

Ima check the intake again just to be sure though. Already swapped seals and gaskets. Thanks bro


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Is timing done correctly?

I have my manifold off now. Imma take a look at it tomorrow.

[Quattritude]

Actually you may be right. Timing might be related to the shaking. Perhaps i did it wrong. But regardless, it wouldn't cause misfires in 1 cylinder.

Also, Abu in your case it may be the manifold because you mentioned your compression is ok but i just remember mine wasn't and a manifold doesn't have any effect on compression. One thing i havent done since putting the car back together is a compression test. I'll do that tomorrow probably. Way too busy today.

Merry Christmas guys :)


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[djnice]

Maybe you had more than one problem. So the valve guide would fix compression and you still have the manifold or something. I assume you took a good look at the cylinders. Just curious how you know it's not rings?

Is there a way to prevent the carbon build up?

[Quattritude]

Maybe you had more than one problem. So the valve guide would fix compression and you still have the manifold or something. I assume you took a good look at the cylinders. Just curious how you know it's not rings?

Is there a way to prevent the carbon build up?

I doubt it but a compression test will definitely let me know if that is the case. I don't know if its rings or not but I suspect it is...Audi themselves diagnosed the vehicle and said that the cylinder head was the issue.

Sadly, no.

[Abu_boost]

So I just took my manifold off and noticed there was some carbon build up, so I went ahead and cleaned it all up. I also inspected the manifold to make sure it had no cracks. Everything looks good, but it is still misfiring.

[Quattritude]

Sorry to tell you but your situation is starting to sound real similar to mine. I have no doubt in my mind that you have a compression issue and your mechanic didn't run the compression test properly.

[Abu_boost]

Sorry to tell you but your situation is starting to sound real similar to mine. I have no doubt in my mind that you have a compression issue and your mechanic didn't run the compression test properly.

I think otherwise. I also get random misfires at time, or another cylinder at times also misfiring.

[Abu_boost]

Did you ever get a chance to do your compression test?

[Townending]

So I just took my manifold off and noticed there was some carbon build up, so I went ahead and cleaned it all up. I also inspected the manifold to make sure it had no cracks. Everything looks good, but it is still misfiring.


In your other thread, you said you had already performed the carbon build-up cleaning... How long ago was the first cleaning done?

[Abu_boost]

In your other thread, you said you had already performed the carbon build-up cleaning... How long ago was the first cleaning done?

About 25k ago

[Abu_boost]

Sorry to tell you but your situation is starting to sound real similar to mine. I have no doubt in my mind that you have a compression issue and your mechanic didn't run the compression test properly.

Any update?

[Quattritude]

Any update?

Sorry, not on here much. The vehicle wasn't holding compression and according to Audi the short block had to be replaced as well. Who knows....

Anyway I have already sold the car and moved on lol. Good luck!

[kt883]

My car has been something similar . At 1800 rpms the epc light will flash . And the check engine is on. The code is for the camshaft sensor . I replaced the camshaft/crankshaft sensors just incase and I still get the same thing. Now the car is turning off on me at red lights. Did you get the epc light on yours ?
My engine is good I have a gut feeling it's electrical something with the wiring of the sensor



I had a similar issue with EPC light flashing and running rougghhh at idle. I replaced camshaft sensor as the code was for that and it didn't help.

It ended up being timing chain tensioner and cost $1700 at local Porsche certified tech (not my regular guy - my go to for advanced stuff) He put a new chain and tensioner in. Luckily no engine damage.

[irobb]

errrr... I'm all worried now... I read this whole thread.

Sorry you had to go through all that BS.

I'm only at 55K miles... Nothing wrong, yet, that I can tell. I've recently just purchased and only put on 2K miles myself.

I guess if I start having misfires, I will sell it right away...

[Quattritude]

Probably your best bet lol


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[kt883]

what was the issue?

[Quattritude]

lol did you read the thread?


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[Abu_boost]

Audi told me it was the timing chain and tensioner, possibly head gasket..

I have it torn up right now, just need to put it back together.

Does anyone have a how to on setting timing in this car?

[Quattritude]

Audi told me it was the timing chain and tensioner, possibly head gasket..

I have it torn up right now, just need to put it back together.

Does anyone have a how to on setting timing in this car?

Requires speciality tools. I can sell you the ones i had to buy. Pm me if you're interested. I can send you pics and we'll figure out a price

[Quattritude]

Oh and i can also send you the write up that tells you how to take the head off. There's quite a process lol


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[Abu_boost]

Just pm'd you. And sure send me the thread. I already got it off but can't hurt to have it

[Quattritude]

Just pm'd you. And sure send me the thread. I already got it off but can't hurt to have it

Did you put it in tdc when you took it off?

[Abu_boost]

When you do the timing, you're supposed to match the marks on the crankshaft to the mark on the valve cover, correct? All data is showing 2 different things.