DIY: CVT TCM replacement

[akvanden]

This will be a work in progress as I was only able to take my TCM out tonight. I still have to ship it to be fixed at which point I'll finish once it's returned.

My car had the check engine light reading p0722 and the tranny just didn't feel quite right. It was not flashing the PRNDS like many others do but I didn't feel like waiting around until it did. I would say so far it's been pretty easy, maybe a medium difficulty. For reference, I've also replaced my timing belt as well as the power steering rack and so far this has been much easier.

Parts needed thus far
torx #30
torx #45
13mm socket
18mm socket
allen socket #10
triple square #10
and I believe a VAS 3357 Triple square "tamper proof"socket driver (thanks Audi)

1. Get your car off the ground and level as possible. I used ramps in front, jack stands in back.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/20130807_201759_zps7a7e6af5.jpg

2. Right side is the VAS 3357 and is the drain. Right side is a #10 allen and is the fill hole. I didn't have the 3357 so I just pulled the fill and let what it could drain. ( the rest will come out when you crack open the rear transmission cover)
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/20130807_201831_zps9edbad7a.jpg

3. This is the back of the tranny. You'll see the TCM electrical connection going in on the top. I've also highlighted 2 of 12 torx in red that hold the back of the tranny cover on and 2 of 4 triple squares. We'll get to that in a moment, but notice that the cross member is in our way so we'll need to move that.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/e5567039-c643-4a1d-abc4-12de30b69ea8_zps70ff107a.jpg

4. Cross member removal. There are three 18mm bolts on each side of the cross member - remove them. You'll notice your transmission is also mounted to the cross member by 2 13mm nuts. They are located directly in the middle of the cross member as your looking up. Remove them. As you take the cross member apart, you'll notice the transmission start to ease down a bit - maybe a couple of inches. It scared me and made me wonder if my tranny was going to fall out but that was only because I don't know what I'm doing. [o_o] After taking all the bolts out, I don't think you have to worry about bracing the tranny or anything but someone please chime in if that's needed so I can immediately go do that to mine. [:D]

http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/02c1bb5b-0ddc-468d-8370-480152d65485_zps74a71b7c.jpg

5. After you take out all the bolts for the cross member, you need to slide it towards the back of the car. The exhaust won't let you fully take it out, so just wiggle it back so you have room to work.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/20130807_205919_zpse5c37f62.jpg

6. Next we need to remove the transmission mount that still connected to the tranny held on by 4 triple square bolts.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/04b444f3-c3c9-4003-b50a-46a4911bb41c_zps2695de9e.jpg

7. Now you'll have a good obstruction free view of the back of the transmission. First thing we'll want to do is to remove the TCM electrical connection. I was worried this was going to be a b$%# to take off like other connectors I've had to deal with but this one is easy. All you have to do is crab the connector and turn counter-clockwise. There's a little tab on it that should help you do so.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/20130807_213050_zpsa6bcf40b.jpg

8. Next you'd need to remove 3 bolts located at the top. I have no idea what this is so until someone can tell me, just remove it and don't ask any questions.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/8071728b-3218-4a10-93f2-3d2f119833d0_zps6071ea0b.jpg

9. There will be 12 T45 torx holding on the back transmission panel so go ahead and start loosening them all. Beware though, if you didn't drain it properly like I did, just ease them out a little each so you don't splash the rest of the fluid all over once you finally crack the back case open.

10. After you've cracked the case and all the fluid has drained, carefully pull the back case over off. You'll now be able to see the TCM. There are three long T30 torx that hold the TCM in place. Remove all three, and then pull back very gently. I've been told this stuff is fragile so be careful.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/80345136-ad5d-4ba3-9c83-504816378148_zpsc3433ff8.jpg

11. And that's it. You're TCM is out so figure out who you're sending it to be fixed and wait until it's returned.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii571/akvanen/20130807_222755_zps4f5763fa.jpg

[customa4]

You should have something supporting the transmission. Nice DIY, hopefully I never have to do it but chances are I will.

[Xaero]

Old post i know, but any updates on this? What does it run to have the TCM repaired? Did you use VAG COM to refill the fluid or just "wing it" ?

[customa4]

You need Vag-Com. Winging it will cost you a lot more when you have to buy a new transmission. $350 compared to $5,000.

[y0itzflip]

I have no idea how you got the crossmember out without dropping the exhaust. no matter how I wiggle it, it's stuck on the tranny mount.

for what it's worth, I have the car on jack stands vs how you went about it, with ramps. would that make a difference?

also does anybody know how to properly remove the rectangle style plug for the tcm? I feel like I'm going to break it lol.

[y0itzflip]

for anybody else that may have had the same issues i had.

i was only able to get enough space after removing the transmission bracket from the transmission. then i used different extensions and a ratchet to get the bolts for the rear cover.

i also drained the transmission the same way since i didnt have the special tool.

oh, and the plug was easy, you just pull the lever on the plug to the left (towards driver side) and it eventually releases the plug (mine was pretty hard, thought i was going to break it)

im sending mine to repair module pro, i found on ebay with a lot of good reviews. it was about 240. just packed the TCM up and about to drop it off at the post office with my fingers crossed.


again, just adding to this thread as i go along since i didnt see much info about this.

[esamc2]

for anybody else that may have had the same issues i had.

i was only able to get enough space after removing the transmission bracket from the transmission. then i used different extensions and a ratchet to get the bolts for the rear cover.

i also drained the transmission the same way since i didnt have the special tool.

oh, and the plug was easy, you just pull the lever on the plug to the left (towards driver side) and it eventually releases the plug (mine was pretty hard, thought i was going to break it)

im sending mine to repair module pro, i found on ebay with a lot of good reviews. it was about 240. just packed the TCM up and about to drop it off at the post office with my fingers crossed.


again, just adding to this thread as i go along since i didnt see much info about this.

[=(][=(]

[esamc2]

for anybody else that may have had the same issues i had.

i was only able to get enough space after removing the transmission bracket from the transmission. then i used different extensions and a ratchet to get the bolts for the rear cover.

i also drained the transmission the same way since i didnt have the special tool.

oh, and the plug was easy, you just pull the lever on the plug to the left (towards driver side) and it eventually releases the plug (mine was pretty hard, thought i was going to break it)

im sending mine to repair module pro, i found on ebay with a lot of good reviews. it was about 240. just packed the TCM up and about to drop it off at the post office with my fingers crossed.


again, just adding to this thread as i go along since i didnt see much info about this.

I am planning on doing this next week. This is a great write up. Any more details on putting it back together, refilling the transmission etc??

[y0itzflip]

I am planning on doing this next week. This is a great write up. Any more details on putting it back together, refilling the transmission etc??

still waiting to get the TCM back in order to put it back together. i only put the trnasmission cover on to keep any debris out since im doing this in my driveway. mostly putting it back together is gonna be the exact opposite. most of the bolts only fit in one place, luckily, so itll be hard to mess that up. i heard you need vagcom to properly fill the transmission. i have the cable but the laptop died not too long ago so i havent been able to use it. trying to see if i can find a cheap laptop on craigslist to keep dedicated to vagcom usage.

oh and dont forget to order a new gasket for the transmission. the part number 01J301475N

its 8-10 dollars most places online. but then they charge shipping, so it ends up coming to 20 if you order online. im going to try my dealer because i cant justify paying such high shipping for an inexpensive part.


i will be posting here once i get the TCM back should be early next week. again i couldnt really find much info besides "buy a manual" or simply no replies. just post up if u have any questions, ill help with what i can.

[customa4]

FWIW I picket up a little netbook off of Craigslist for $40 with a dead hard drive. The guy didn't know what what was wrong with it but I had a good idea of what it was. I picked up a hard drive off eBay for like $30 and threw Windows XP on it. It also needed a charger that I got on Amazon for $12. So all in all about $82 and it's been running strong for about 4 years now strictly used with Vag-Com. I recently put an SSD in there for when I need to use it on the fly and it's a lot quicker now for an old crappy netbook. What do you need help with? I have the manuals for draining and filling the CVT. I also started a write up but never got around to finishing it. It could probably help if you need it, let me know.

[esamc2]

FWIW I picket up a little netbook off of Craigslist for $40 with a dead hard drive. The guy didn't know what what was wrong with it but I had a good idea of what it was. I picked up a hard drive off eBay for like $30 and threw Windows XP on it. It also needed a charger that I got on Amazon for $12. So all in all about $82 and it's been running strong for about 4 years now strictly used with Vag-Com. I recently put an SSD in there for when I need to use it on the fly and it's a lot quicker now for an old crappy netbook. What do you need help with? I have the manuals for draining and filling the CVT. I also started a write up but never got around to finishing it. It could probably help if you need it, let me know.

Thanks guys for the response. I will be starting the work on this tomorrow. I am sure I will have more questions after I start. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.

BTW I am planning on getting the TCM fixed from a listing on ebay. I think it is the first thing that pops up when you search for Audi TCM at about $239
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08-AUDI-A4-A6-Transmission-Control-Module-CVT-TCM-REPAIR-KIT-WE-INSTALL-/230859513174?fits=Make%3AAudi&hash=item35c04c9d56&vxp=mtr

Any one have knows if this is legit? reviews?

Thanks

[y0itzflip]

FWIW I picket up a little netbook off of Craigslist for $40 with a dead hard drive. The guy didn't know what what was wrong with it but I had a good idea of what it was. I picked up a hard drive off eBay for like $30 and threw Windows XP on it. It also needed a charger that I got on Amazon for $12. So all in all about $82 and it's been running strong for about 4 years now strictly used with Vag-Com. I recently put an SSD in there for when I need to use it on the fly and it's a lot quicker now for an old crappy netbook. What do you need help with? I have the manuals for draining and filling the CVT. I also started a write up but never got around to finishing it. It could probably help if you need it, let me know.

the only thing im curious about is the refill procedure. i know that i would need to fill and then let the car warm up to a certain temp, move the shifter thru the gears and check fluid again? a mechanic went thru it really quickly with me, but obviously didnt want to give me all the steps so i could just take it to him lol.


Thanks guys for the response. I will be starting the work on this tomorrow. I am sure I will have more questions after I start. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.

BTW I am planning on getting the TCM fixed from a listing on ebay. I think it is the first thing that pops up when you search for Audi TCM at about $239
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08-AUDI-A4-A6-Transmission-Control-Module-CVT-TCM-REPAIR-KIT-WE-INSTALL-/230859513174?fits=Make%3AAudi&hash=item35c04c9d56&vxp=mtr

Any one have knows if this is legit? reviews?

Thanks


thats the same company i went through. they have great communication so far, even emailed me some instructions to help remove the plug i was worried about. my TCM is enroute to them now (will probably arrive tomm). i will update with results. they state a 1-2 business day turn around.

[esamc2]

the only thing im curious about is the refill procedure. i know that i would need to fill and then let the car warm up to a certain temp, move the shifter thru the gears and check fluid again? a mechanic went thru it really quickly with me, but obviously didnt want to give me all the steps so i could just take it to him lol.




thats the same company i went through. they have great communication so far, even emailed me some instructions to help remove the plug i was worried about. my TCM is enroute to them now (will probably arrive tomm). i will update with results. they state a 1-2 business day turn around.


I went to the dealership to buy stuff for TCM replacement, and he quoted me 8 bottles of transmission fluid, bolts for the transmission cover, TCM gasket, Transmission cover gasket.

Is there anything else you guys changed? how about filter? Can we change the filter when its open? any other parts? If yes, please share the part numbers.

Thanks.

[customa4]

I believe the filter that is internal is around $400. The external filter, from what I remember reading, you can use air at a low pressure to blow it out.

[y0itzflip]

what he said. im not gonna bother with that internal filter way too much money. my cvt already has about 130k on it...im not gonna invest that much more into it. ill take that 400 and put it towards my manual swap for whenever this thing goes. also they say those are single use bolts, however i have read that people use them more than once and it isnt an issue. ill be reusing mine, just going to torque to spec.

[customa4]

Here's the write up that I made that I never fully completed. I haven't uploaded pictures but here's the text.

Things you'll need:
*Vag-Com- If you cannot monitor the transmission temperatures, do not attempt to change your fluid. It is critical to the operation of your transmission that the oil is at a certain temperature when the level is being checked. These transmissions are very sensitive and overfilling or under-filling can cause problems for you. Problems will be avoided if you follow instructions and monitor the temperature.

*Fluid Pump-You will need a fluid pump to put the fluid into the transmission. The fill plug and the drain plug are both on the bottom of the transmission so you will be pumping the fluid from the bottle up into the transmission. I paid about $12 from Advanced Auto Parts for a "Performance Tool Quart & Gallon Pump". It comes with some some hose that attaches to the pump to be able to go up into the transmission. It was perfect for the job.

*Multi-Point Bit-3357- This tool can be purchased from metalnerd.com and it's a little more than half the way down the page here (http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm). On there site it is labeled as Part MN2567 - Gear Box Drain Bit. It can be purchased for $25. Someone else might have a another idea for removing this plug like some vice grips but you will not be able to get the proper torque spec when re-installing if you choose this method.

*At least 5 liters of CVT fluid. NOT REGULAR ATF. Regular ATF and CVT fluid are different, you need to have CVT fluid. I picked up 6 liters to be safe but you will only need 5 liters if you follow the instructions. I paid roughly $13.50 a liter and my local dealer told me they had 12 liters in stock. So let's just say about rroughly $70 for 5 liters of OEM fluid.
Part # is G 052 180 A2

*Something to get the car level. Whether it be on a lift, jackstands, or ramps and jackstands. In my case what was available to me was a frame machine so that's what I used. Just try and make sure you get the car as level as possible for filling and checking fluid level.

*Oil pan to catch the fluid.


Step 1.)Get your car level.

Step 2.)Use your mult-point bit 3357 to remove the drain plug and get rid of the oil
Do not run the engine with the fluid drained from the system or tow the car.

Step 3.)Put the drain plug back in. The torque spec on this plug is 24 Nm.

Step 4.)Remove the fill/inspection plug to fill up with fluid.

Step 5.)Fill with 4.5 to 5 liters of CVT fluid. Put the fill/inspection plug back in before continuing. The torque spec is 30 Nm.
In my case it took about 4.5 to 4.75 before it would not take anymore fluid.

Step 6.)With the car in Park, start the car and let it idle.
ONLY 2005+ cars, rev the engine briefly to at least 2,500 RPMs to bleed the air out of the ATF pump.

Step 7.)Hold the brake pedal and shift through the gears PRNDS and leave in each gear for at least 2 seconds with the engine idling.

Step 8.)Put the car back in Park and let it idle.

Step 9.)Start up VCDS and go to [02-Auto Trans][Meas Blocks-08] Group 10 and hit Go! In the third box over you will see the Transmission Fluid Temp.

Step 10.)You want the temperature to be at 35* when checking the fluid. If the temp is too low, you will overfill and if the temp is to high you will under-fill.

Step 11.)When the temperature has reached 35* get under the car and remove the fill/inspection plug. When you remove the plug some of the fluid will spill out, under a quarter cup of fluid should come out. If the fluid continues to come out before reaching 40* then you're all done and you can put the plug back in. It is recommended that you replace this plug at this point. Again, the torque spec is 30 Nm.
Do no let the temp get up to 45* or too much fluid will get out when you remove the plug and you will not get a good reading on the level.

[deyrag]

Nice write up. Only suggestion i would make (and it applies to any drain and refill fluid project) is to loosen the fill plug before removing the drain. It sucks to have it all drained and then find you cannot refill because the fill plug is stripped or some other dumb luck.

[Airflite40]

I can't believe they produced a CVT FWD UltraSport.

[y0itzflip]

Here's the write up that I made that I never fully completed. I haven't uploaded pictures but here's the text.

Things you'll need:
*Vag-Com- If you cannot monitor the transmission temperatures, do not attempt to change your fluid. It is critical to the operation of your transmission that the oil is at a certain temperature when the level is being checked. These transmissions are very sensitive and overfilling or under-filling can cause problems for you. Problems will be avoided if you follow instructions and monitor the temperature.

*Fluid Pump-You will need a fluid pump to put the fluid into the transmission. The fill plug and the drain plug are both on the bottom of the transmission so you will be pumping the fluid from the bottle up into the transmission. I paid about $12 from Advanced Auto Parts for a "Performance Tool Quart & Gallon Pump". It comes with some some hose that attaches to the pump to be able to go up into the transmission. It was perfect for the job.

*Multi-Point Bit-3357- This tool can be purchased from metalnerd.com and it's a little more than half the way down the page here (http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm). On there site it is labeled as Part MN2567 - Gear Box Drain Bit. It can be purchased for $25. Someone else might have a another idea for removing this plug like some vice grips but you will not be able to get the proper torque spec when re-installing if you choose this method.

*At least 5 liters of CVT fluid. NOT REGULAR ATF. Regular ATF and CVT fluid are different, you need to have CVT fluid. I picked up 6 liters to be safe but you will only need 5 liters if you follow the instructions. I paid roughly $13.50 a liter and my local dealer told me they had 12 liters in stock. So let's just say about rroughly $70 for 5 liters of OEM fluid.
Part # is G 052 180 A2

*Something to get the car level. Whether it be on a lift, jackstands, or ramps and jackstands. In my case what was available to me was a frame machine so that's what I used. Just try and make sure you get the car as level as possible for filling and checking fluid level.

*Oil pan to catch the fluid.


Step 1.)Get your car level.

Step 2.)Use your mult-point bit 3357 to remove the drain plug and get rid of the oil
Do not run the engine with the fluid drained from the system or tow the car.

Step 3.)Put the drain plug back in. The torque spec on this plug is 24 Nm.

Step 4.)Remove the fill/inspection plug to fill up with fluid.

Step 5.)Fill with 4.5 to 5 liters of CVT fluid. Put the fill/inspection plug back in before continuing. The torque spec is 30 Nm.
In my case it took about 4.5 to 4.75 before it would not take anymore fluid.

Step 6.)With the car in Park, start the car and let it idle.
ONLY 2005+ cars, rev the engine briefly to at least 2,500 RPMs to bleed the air out of the ATF pump.

Step 7.)Hold the brake pedal and shift through the gears PRNDS and leave in each gear for at least 2 seconds with the engine idling.

Step 8.)Put the car back in Park and let it idle.

Step 9.)Start up VCDS and go to [02-Auto Trans][Meas Blocks-08] Group 10 and hit Go! In the third box over you will see the Transmission Fluid Temp.

Step 10.)You want the temperature to be at 35* when checking the fluid. If the temp is too low, you will overfill and if the temp is to high you will under-fill.

Step 11.)When the temperature has reached 35* get under the car and remove the fill/inspection plug. When you remove the plug some of the fluid will spill out, under a quarter cup of fluid should come out. If the fluid continues to come out before reaching 40* then you're all done and you can put the plug back in. It is recommended that you replace this plug at this point. Again, the torque spec is 30 Nm.
Do no let the temp get up to 45* or too much fluid will get out when you remove the plug and you will not get a good reading on the level.

perfect. just got shipping info for my TCM, should be here saturday and itll go in on saturday as well. i have everything here ready to go. found a laptop on craigslist for 75 bucks. so im good to go!

[customa4]

Nice write up. Only suggestion i would make (and it applies to any drain and refill fluid project) is to loosen the fill plug before removing the drain. It sucks to have it all drained and then find you cannot refill because the fill plug is stripped or some other dumb luck.

It's funny you mention that because it's a major step in the process. Before I posted this I checked if that was in the write up and it wasn't but still forgot to add it. Thanks for adding that, extremely important. Before you do anything make sure you can loosen the full plug.

[customa4]

perfect. just got shipping info for my TCM, should be here saturday and itll go in on saturday as well. i have everything here ready to go. found a laptop on craigslist for 75 bucks. so im good to go!

Awesome, good to hear. Good luck and if you have any issues feel free to PM me. I have it setup so I get an email when I'm PM'd so I should be able to respond.

[esamc2]

perfect. just got shipping info for my TCM, should be here saturday and itll go in on saturday as well. i have everything here ready to go. found a laptop on craigslist for 75 bucks. so im good to go!

Cool!.Let us know how it goes. I just got mine out today. Getting ready to ship. Any special considerations while shipping?

[y0itzflip]

Cool!.Let us know how it goes. I just got mine out today. Getting ready to ship. Any special considerations while shipping?

i just wrapped mine really good in bubble wrap and double boxed it. it came back saturday but with the storm and everything (im in miami) i didnt get passed bringing the part/tools outside lol.

but its clear now so its time to get to work.

FWIW, i shipped it out monday morning from miami to cali, and it came back saturday. pretty good service so far. the real test is to see that flashing light gone when i get everything together.

[customa4]

What codes were you guys getting that made you think there was a problem with the TCM?

[y0itzflip]

flashing PRND, car shifting from first to 5th/6th, works fine in tip mode. wouldnt go in reverse. the usual stuff. i cant find the code (had it written down) i think it was p0706 on my obdII scanner.


by the way, i have everything back together and now im attempting to fill the fluid but im not sure if its actually taking the fluid or all just spilling out. is there a special way to do it?

im using this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3243/large/9016678_ptl_w1139_pri_larg.jpg

[customa4]

There's an edge there so you kinda wanna get the tube over the edge. I ended up spilling a decent amount as well. There's a sweet spot for where the hose can go and take majority of the fluid. I'll see if I can find a photo or video to help out.

[customa4]

This is the proper tool from Audi to use to fill the fluid. You can see that there's an arrow at the top basically showing that the fluid is going over a wall.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b311/muckdawg19/tranny_fill_tool.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/229642-A4-B6-CVT-Fluid-change-DIY&h=356&w=279&tbnid=8_DsnfqRcMuUNM:&docid=xXnyYWg4tWbrRM&hl=en&ei=IZjjVe_TN8rr-QG71aHQBQ&tbm=isch&client=safari&ved=0CCAQMygDMANqFQoTCK_o7YCB0scCFcp1Pgodu2oIWg

It really helps to have a second person. One person holds the hose in place while the other one pumps the fluid.

[y0itzflip]

lol ahhh thanks. ill give it a shot. wasted a good amount of fluid so far -_-

since i dont know how much ive wasted and got in so far, is there a dipstick to i can check the current level? im assuming not

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b311/muckdawg19/tranny_fill_tool.jpg heres the pic in case anybody needed it.

[customa4]

No dipstick. Just keep filling, you'll be good. Thanks for embedding the photo, can't seem to be able to do it from my phone. The only way to know if the fluid level is correct is once you get the trans up to temp. I'm pretty sure I filled mine until it just wouldn't take any more fluid and then started it up. I don't believe it's possible to overfill it without the car being up to temp.

[y0itzflip]

no problem.

well i fianlly think i have it filed up (i think i found the sweet spot and went thru about 3 bottles and some change before it just started spewing out like crazy, doesnt include what i filled before i knew what i was doing though)

went to start the car...still getting flashing PRND -_-

didnt bother to start the car yet. checked code in vag-com and im getting 17090 Transmission range sensor (f125) implausible signal. im assuming this is a wiring issue?

couldnt clear the code because its a shareware version and my wifi didnt reach outside lol. so im back inside trying to figure this out before i try again.

[customa4]

Unhook the battery for 10 minutes to clear it. Click (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17090)

[esamc2]

no problem.

well i fianlly think i have it filed up (i think i found the sweet spot and went thru about 3 bottles and some change before it just started spewing out like crazy, doesnt include what i filled before i knew what i was doing though)

went to start the car...still getting flashing PRND -_-

didnt bother to start the car yet. checked code in vag-com and im getting 17090 Transmission range sensor (f125) implausible signal. im assuming this is a wiring issue?

couldnt clear the code because its a shareware version and my wifi didnt reach outside lol. so im back inside trying to figure this out before i try again.

I would think the code is stored in your ECU memory. I would try to clear it and see if it comes back.. ? Not sure though.

[y0itzflip]

Unhook the battery for 10 minutes to clear it. Click (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17090)


I would think the code is stored in your ECU memory. I would try to clear it and see if it comes back.. ? Not sure though.


thanks. ill unhook the battery while i register this version of vag com and report back

would my regular OBDII scanner be able to clear that code?

[customa4]

I would think the code is stored in your ECU memory. I would try to clear it and see if it comes back.. ? Not sure though.

This is what I'm thinking as well.

[y0itzflip]

thanks guys. i was able to clear the code with vag-com and no more blinking PRND (lol i was getting so mad/worried because i thought maybe i got scammed), went to start the car and "click" lol battery is dead.

so now im stuck while i wait for my girl to get home and give me a jump.

i really appreciate all the help guys. ive worked on a lot of cars in my life, but nothing has had me as scared to move without advice as this CVT tranny lol.

[esamc2]

thanks guys. i was able to clear the code with vag-com and no more blinking PRND (lol i was getting so mad/worried because i thought maybe i got scammed), went to start the car and "click" lol battery is dead.

so now im stuck while i wait for my girl to get home and give me a jump.

i really appreciate all the help guys. ive worked on a lot of cars in my life, but nothing has had me as scared to move without advice as this CVT tranny lol.


Any luck?

[y0itzflip]

Any luck?

it was too late by time she got home last night. woke up this morning and filled the fluid until it started spilling out again.

literally just walked back in from checking with vag-com when it was around 35, i opened the fill hole and fluid spilled out on me for a bit while it sat. i think im good?

either way i moved the car up and down the driveway and it has never responded as quickly as it has (ive had intermittent flashing PRND since a week after i bought the car)

im still not 100% confident in my fill even tho i followed everything here to the T, so i may just take it to an indy to get a proper drain/fill in a week or so.

is there anything i should look/hear/feel for if there is low fluid? i dont hear any grinding or abnormal noises, however i was just sitting in my driveway going back and forth.

[customa4]

As long as you followed the steps given for filling and made sure it was at the right temp you'll be fine. No need to take it to an Indy shop.

[esamc2]

it was too late by time she got home last night. woke up this morning and filled the fluid until it started spilling out again.

literally just walked back in from checking with vag-com when it was around 35, i opened the fill hole and fluid spilled out on me for a bit while it sat. i think im good?

either way i moved the car up and down the driveway and it has never responded as quickly as it has (ive had intermittent flashing PRND since a week after i bought the car)

im still not 100% confident in my fill even tho i followed everything here to the T, so i may just take it to an indy to get a proper drain/fill in a week or so.

is there anything i should look/hear/feel for if there is low fluid? i dont hear any grinding or abnormal noises, however i was just sitting in my driveway going back and forth.

If still in doubt, here's a nice write up for a flush..

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b6-platform-discussion-34/audi-a4-2003-frontrak-b6-cvt-multitronic-oil-fluid-change-flush-2853167/

[y0itzflip]

just took the car for a semi spirited drive (aka divining normally vs driving as if I'm scared to break the car) and soon as the car warmed up, the transmission started slipping. I'm starting to doubt that I have enough fluid. I immediately stopped the car. not sure what to do now besides drain and refill (or take to Indy for them to do it)

would low fluid cause slipping? that's one thing I didn't have an issue with before I changed the tcm.

[esamc2]

just took the car for a semi spirited drive (aka divining normally vs driving as if I'm scared to break the car) and soon as the car warmed up, the transmission started slipping. I'm starting to doubt that I have enough fluid. I immediately stopped the car. not sure what to do now besides drain and refill (or take to Indy for them to do it)

would low fluid cause slipping? that's one thing I didn't have an issue with before I changed the tcm.

Any codes pop up?

[y0itzflip]

Any codes pop up?

my laptop was dead so i didt check last night. they should be stored no? ill go check now.

[y0itzflip]

nope not codes, but the PRND did turn "solid" when it started slipping and i could barely move the car up the driveway. i havent started the car since im going to do a drain and fill and didnt want to do any damage if it IS low on fluid. i have a co worker who is going to give me a "better pump" for that type of fill hole supposedly.

i have some fluid on the way (i only have 3 quarts left here at the house) that should arrive this weekend and ill give that another shot. if the drain fill doesnt work i am done lol. the junkers can have it.

[y0itzflip]

I am planning on doing this next week. This is a great write up. Any more details on putting it back together, refilling the transmission etc??

how's yours go?

[esamc2]

[QUOTE=y0itzflip;11028849]how's yours go?[/QUOTE
Have not received mine yet...will be getting it this week.. Will update once I put it in...

[y0itzflip]

[QUOTE=y0itzflip;11028849]how's yours go?[/QUOTE
Have not received mine yet...will be getting it this week.. Will update once I put it in...

sounds good. i am going to drain and fill my transmission this weekend. my co worker brought his pump and it was the same thing lol.

i was going to order this CLICK (http://www.autotoolworld.com/Assenmacher-ATF-1033-5-VW-VWAudi-Drive-Line-Filler-System_p_125959.html) (i found a cheaper one on my ipad for about 120, just cant find the link on this computer)

however, being the frugal (aka cheap) guy that i am, i figured the only thing i need is this CLICK (http://www.autotoolworld.com/Assenmacher-ATF-103-VWAudi-Drive-Line-Filler-Adapter-VAG-19241_p_125957.html) http://www.autotoolworld.com/assets/images/AHATF%20103.jpg and i can DIY connect it to one of the fluid pumps i have here at the house. its pretty much the same as the vag tool used by the dealer. seems as if it will be less messy and make it a tad bit easier for the one man job (my girl is pregnant and is useless right now lol.)

here is a pic of what gave me the idea to look for this piece.

http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/ATFChange13.jpg

http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/ATFChange16.jpg

so for any future DIY for about 40 bucks (depending on the pump setup you use) you can basically have the vag filling tool (giggidy)

again, just trying to spread a little more info about this crazy transmission.

[prinler]

Im excited for you to get your car back up and going man! I have the same trans @ 100k and its starting to give issues with jerking and such between 1-2k rpm. Im watching this like a hawk!

[y0itzflip]

well good news and bad news. that part was not the right size. it was a tad too big for whatever reason, even though it said audi/vw. guess i need the smaller one. sucks because it fit the harbor freight pump perfectly. almost had an alternative to the oem VAG tool. i will still try to figure that out

goodnews is, i was able to fill the tranny with just the harbor freight pump after using a little tape around the hose (since the harbor freight pump is damn near the size of the fill hole) to stop fluid from leaking everywhere. pumped in a few quarts started the car, did the vag com precedure listed here to check the temp and fluid and i believe i did everything right. fluid was still coming out when it hit 40* so i closed her up, let the car down and took it around the neighborhood for a good 5-10 minutes and it seemed fine. tranny shifted smooth, tip ran through all the gears and car reversed without hesitation. so while im still doubtful (mainly because all of the horror stories) i think im done trying to "fix" it. gonna let it cool down while i clean up and take it for one more drive to walgreens and see how it acts. will report back.

[customa4]

Just make sure you take it easy on it for a few miles. Don't push it right away just because it feels ok. [up] Glad to hear you're confident with the job. Flushing twice is much better off anyways because now you have pretty much all of the contaminated fluid out.

[y0itzflip]

Just make sure you take it easy on it for a few miles. Don't push it right away just because it feels ok. [up] Glad to hear you're confident with the job. Flushing twice is much better off anyways because now you have pretty much all of the contaminated fluid out.

lol yea i am a pretty laid bak driver anyway. ran to walgreens and to subway before they closed and everything seems fine. im content for now lol.

[esamc2]

lol yea i am a pretty laid bak driver anyway. ran to walgreens and to subway before they closed and everything seems fine. im content for now lol.

Did any of you do the Trans adaptation procedure?. Google TCM adaptation and you will find a couple links from Ross Tech and others that show the procedure. It involves going into the controller and running ADP, then driving 70mts and braking 10 sec. Than reverse 70mts and braking 10 secs. Repeat this about 5-10 times until ADP says ok. I will paste the link here when I am close to my pc.

Is this required?

[esamc2]

Did any of you do the Trans adaptation procedure?. Google TCM adaptation and you will find a couple links from Ross Tech and others that show the procedure. It involves going into the controller and running ADP, then driving 70mts and braking 10 sec. Than reverse 70mts and braking 10 secs. Repeat this about 5-10 times until ADP says ok. I will paste the link here when I am close to my pc.

Is this required?

http://europeantransmissions.com/CVTAudiinstalliation.htm

[y0itzflip]

i did not do it, but i think i will do that now while im working on the car.

[esamc2]

i did not do it, but i think i will do that now while im working on the car.

Just wanted to update everyone here.
Stuff:
8 lts (bottles) of CVT transmission fluid G 052 180 A2.
12 Transmission cover bolts
1 Transmission cover gasket
1 TCM oil seal to cover gasket
2 oil o-rings (between transmission and TCM)
1 Repaired TCM ( Module pro - ebay)
1 Harbor Freight pump



I installed my TCM back. Here are the concluding steps in case it helps any one else. Taking apart is pretty well documented. These are the steps for putting it back together.

1. I used Module Pro from ebay ($239). Service was pretty good. From shipping to receiving back the module was about a week.
2. Once I got the TCM I cleaned it pretty clean using a paper napkin
3. Installed the TCM carefully back in the transmission. Torque three TCM bolts to 10NM.
4. It is recommended to replace the two oil o-rings that sit on the top right of the TCM ( you will see them on the transmission tucked in two small holes that mate with two holes on the TCM). I did not do it as I could not wait until next week to buy them from the Dealer. If you have a chance, do replace them.
5. Once the TCM is installed, install the new oil seal that will seal the TCM connector with Transmission back cover. The wide mouth of the seal stays towards the cover side.
6. Place the new transmission cover gasket over the transmission periphery being careful not to pinch or bend it.
7. Carefully place the transmission back cover back on without damaging the gasket. Be very careful, there is not enough space. Start by hand tightening all 12 bolts (new) and then torque them to 15NM + 90deg alternatively. Using old bolts is not recommended, heard they were stretch bolts. I ordered mine from ECS tuning along with everything else.
8. Install the transmission mount using the 4 triple square bolts. I am not sure about the torque spec. I just tightened them good and snug.
9. Transmission does ease up if you don't support it. I supported it using a scissor jack and a 2x4 and it still eased up a little bit. Its difficult to put the cross arm back with transmission mount installed. I jacked up the cross member using a floor jack just enough to get the bolts in. Aligned the cross member using a mallet to center on the transmission mount. Tighten 3 19mm bolts on both sides of the cross member. Again I didn't have torque specks. tightened it nice and snug.
10. That's it. Time to re-fill the transmission.
11. When I drained the transmission, about 5lts of sludge drained out. It was nasty. I thought it was supposed to be red but its not. the new transmission fluid is clean golden. My car has just 53K miles on it and the fluid was disgusting!!
12. Tighten the drain hole to 24NM
13. Use the fill hole to re-fill the transmission with fresh fluid. I used the harbor freight pump with electrical tape. Worked great. no waste whatsoever. I pumped about 5 lts (bottles) in and then pulled the tube out. Some of the fluid drained back out as expected.
14. Turned on the Car. Connected VCDS and turned Transmission 02 -> Measuring block 08 -> 10.
15. While holding the brake paddle, rotate between P R N D S holding each for about 10secs. I did this a couple of times. I could feel the shifts getting smoother.
16. Let the car idle and monitor transmission temp until it reaches 35deg C. At this point, open the fill plug. In my case nothing drained out indicating under-fill. I inserted the harbor freight tube again with the car running and pumped about 1 litre in. As soon as I removed the tube again, some fluid drained out and slowly stopped. The transmission temp was about 38. Just be careful not to exceed 40 deg C.
15. That's it. Tighten the fill plug to 30NM. If you open the fill plug after turning the car off, a lot of fluid will drain out and you will have to re-fill it and repeat the procedure. Dont ask how I know.
16. All in all, I used about 7.5lts of fluid with some wasteful drain.
17. Not sure if its required, but I also did the TCM adaptation procedure mentioned earlier. Link above.

That's it.. Drove it for about 45 minutes at varying speeds and seems all good. Transmission has never been this smooth since I bought the car about a year back. I will take it for a long spirited drive tomorrow and check if everything stays ok. Thanks for all the help with this. If anyone has any questions about the procedure or needs pictures, let me know. I took a bunch of pictures and there is a good chance I will find what you are looking for.

Cheers!

[y0itzflip]

sounds like you went thru something similar to me when it comes to opening the fill plug when the car is off. lol

going to do the adaption tonight, roads should be pretty empty on a sunday evening.

quick question, do you need the laptop connected while doing the adaption? my battery is pretty bad and dies in like 5 minutes (ordered a new one this weekend) so it needs to be plugged in. or do you do the adaption, park the car then check vagcom?

[customa4]

Get one of these. Click (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bravo-View-INV-150-150-Watt-Peak-Power-Inverter/9729856) Don't have to worry about your battery dying again. [up]

[esamc2]

sounds like you went thru something similar to me when it comes to opening the fill plug when the car is off. lol

going to do the adaption tonight, roads should be pretty empty on a sunday evening.

quick question, do you need the laptop connected while doing the adaption? my battery is pretty bad and dies in like 5 minutes (ordered a new one this weekend) so it needs to be plugged in. or do you do the adaption, park the car then check vagcom?

I did it while connected. Not sure if it has to. I would think it would work either way. Mine did not take much. ADP went ok right away. Probably because we have original TCMs.

Lol.. Yes about the fluid..I am glad it happened though. What came out was nasty. And I had 8 bottles which I was pretty sure not going to return back to ECS ;).

[y0itzflip]

Get one of these. Click (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bravo-View-INV-150-150-Watt-Peak-Power-Inverter/9729856) Don't have to worry about your battery dying again. [up]


haha forgot about these. just got one

[y0itzflip]

tranny was geting PRND lit up solid today and i couldnt move the car. checked the codes (thank god for the power inverter) i got a code 18159/P1751. clearing codes wont fix anything. not really sure what to do now. b4 this happened car seemed to drive fine, been driving it to work and to run errands here and there. casually cruising and boom it just started coasting. no loud bang or grinds or anything.

[brandonbruyette]

Hoping someone can help in this thread just to reconfirm my suspicions.

I recently bought my 2006 Audi A4 2.0T knowing that it had a bit of a tranny issue, but the deal was a good one with the amount of miles the car has.
Audi put in a new TCM last year in December for previous owner, it fixed the problem for 2 months or so and then the problem came back. Getting solid lit PRND in park, gears 1-3, 4/5 are clear.
When you let your foot off the gas quickly, thats when you noticed the lerch or slip or whatever youd like to call it. Being that the part was under service warranty, I brought it to Audi to see about having that part replaced, the refused INSISTING I'd need a totally new tranny. I believe that to be incorrect. I

The codes I'm getting are:

17101 P0717 Transmission Input Speed Sensor NO SIGNAL
17110 P0726 RPM Signal from ECU Implausible Signal - Intermittent

The car runs great other wise, even in "limp mode tranny" she gets up and goes, its decelerating that seems to be the problem.

Firmly believe still that it's the TCM causing this and looking to have it redone as my first option rather then the 4-5k for a new tranny.

Any thoughts on this?

[y0itzflip]

sounds like it COULD be the tcm, however maybe you should check the wiring as well. thats weird that you get PRND in park and then it works in other gears, when i get solid PRND it isnt going anywhere lol

[brandonbruyette]

Yeah, it's definitely solid RED PRND until I step on the gas and it gets through 1 and 2. Whether I'm in Sport or Drive or using the Tiptronic.

Just seems very very unlikely to me that it's the entire transmission.

[y0itzflip]

Yeah, it's definitely solid RED PRND until I step on the gas and it gets through 1 and 2. Whether I'm in Sport or Drive or using the Tiptronic.

Just seems very very unlikely to me that it's the entire transmission.

did a quick google search and found

01196 - Engine-Transmission Data Bus: No Signal/Communication

Couldn't find 17101, the closest I can find
17100/P0716/001814 - Transmission Input Speed Sensor (G182): Implausible Signal
P0717 Input Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
00526 - Brake Light Switch (F): Circuit Malfunction

From all of these sounds like your trans harness has come loose and the ECU is not getting the speed sensor readings. Without the speed sensor
the engine won't run, it needs it to establish timing.

[brandonbruyette]

Interesting.

My first guy thought it was honestly just wiring and then before digging into it too far he called and told me the TCM was still under repair warranty with Audi and to check with them.

Maybe I'll get back with him and compare notes.

Any luck getting yours sorted out?

[customa4]

tranny was geting PRND lit up solid today and i couldnt move the car. checked the codes (thank god for the power inverter) i got a code 18159/P1751. clearing codes wont fix anything. not really sure what to do now. b4 this happened car seemed to drive fine, been driving it to work and to run errands here and there. casually cruising and boom it just started coasting. no loud bang or grinds or anything.

I really wish I could help you more with your problem but I just have no insight on this problem. At this point if you plan on dropping big money, my only suggestion is to just pony up, bring it to the dealer and have them diagnose the problem. You may end up spending $100 to fix the problem or $2,000. Don't have them fix it but have them tell you what's wrong with it and take it out of there to see what your options are. IMO it's worth dropping the ~$100 to have it diagnosed and see if you could save money in the long run.

[y0itzflip]

I really wish I could help you more with your problem but I just have no insight on this problem. At this point if you plan on dropping big money, my only suggestion is to just pony up, bring it to the dealer and have them diagnose the problem. You may end up spending $100 to fix the problem or $2,000. Don't have them fix it but have them tell you what's wrong with it and take it out of there to see what your options are. IMO it's worth dropping the ~$100 to have it diagnosed and see if you could save money in the long run.

I may take it by Audi if I can make the time. im giving it another week or so while I search for parts and double check wiring and such before I start picking up swap parts.

what's crazy is if I let the car sit over night I can drive it just fine. it's not until I'm driving for a while does it happen.

[esamc2]

Hoping someone can help in this thread just to reconfirm my suspicions.

I recently bought my 2006 Audi A4 2.0T knowing that it had a bit of a tranny issue, but the deal was a good one with the amount of miles the car has.
Audi put in a new TCM last year in December for previous owner, it fixed the problem for 2 months or so and then the problem came back. Getting solid lit PRND in park, gears 1-3, 4/5 are clear.
When you let your foot off the gas quickly, thats when you noticed the lerch or slip or whatever youd like to call it. Being that the part was under service warranty, I brought it to Audi to see about having that part replaced, the refused INSISTING I'd need a totally new tranny. I believe that to be incorrect. I

The codes I'm getting are:

17101 P0717 Transmission Input Speed Sensor NO SIGNAL
17110 P0726 RPM Signal from ECU Implausible Signal - Intermittent

The car runs great other wise, even in "limp mode tranny" she gets up and goes, its decelerating that seems to be the problem.

Firmly believe still that it's the TCM causing this and looking to have it redone as my first option rather then the 4-5k for a new tranny.

Any thoughts on this?

Call your local dealer and let them know that TCM was fixed while within the warranty period and it has issues. I think the lawsuit MIGHT covers your case since it was taken care of by Audi dealer. If they are not helpful I would call Audi America direct line and give them your VIN. If your car is maintained ( have some receipts from dealer) they should be able to trace it back and help out if at all. I would definitely start there.

[esamc2]

For what its worth, my car behaved the same way. I got PRNDS in park but drove just fine. Sometimes it would stay lit or sometimes it would just fix itself with minor slipping and jerking on starts.. Its all good not after TCM replacement. I have driven about 250 or so miles including highway speeds tons of steep hills here in Portland and its been working great (so far!)

[esamc2]

Also check that silver cable that attaches to top right ( passenger side) of the transmission cover. I read somewhere that it carries the speed signals. I have no idea where it goes or how you would check it but give it a try and see if you find anything wrong there..

[brandonbruyette]

For what its worth, my car behaved the same way. I got PRNDS in park but drove just fine. Sometimes it would stay lit or sometimes it would just fix itself with minor slipping and jerking on starts.. Its all good not after TCM replacement. I have driven about 250 or so miles including highway speeds tons of steep hills here in Portland and its been working great (so far!)

Reached out to Audi America directly who basically told me that because all the techs have looked again at servicing the TCM and found that the entire transmission is "the issue", they won't touch it and because all Audi dealers are owned separately, they couldn't force Audi Minneapolis to replace the TCM free of charge again. Kind of sounds like a crock of crap to me.

You replaced your TCM and solved your problems, or did NOT solve your problems? "Its all good not after TCM replacement" throws me off a bit.

[Justab6guy]

I'm having similar issues on my 03 a4 fwd. Pulled tcm out sent it out to be repaired. Got it back pretty quick installed it and filled it back up. It drives and shifts smoothly, tiptronic works.

Now blinking PRND again but car drives fine. I can hook up my scanner and clear the 2 codes and it will stop blinking until car is started.

Just read about the "procedure" after installing tcm. Anyone have results with that? Have appt at the shop the 1599th but would like to save the money. They say could be a static code my scanner won't clear.

Thoughts?

[customa4]

A solid PRND light might be a static code. I doubt that a flashing PRND is something that just "won't clear."

[y0itzflip]

I'm having similar issues on my 03 a4 fwd. Pulled tcm out sent it out to be repaired. Got it back pretty quick installed it and filled it back up. It drives and shifts smoothly, tiptronic works.

Now blinking PRND again but car drives fine. I can hook up my scanner and clear the 2 codes and it will stop blinking until car is started.

Just read about the "procedure" after installing tcm. Anyone have results with that? Have appt at the shop the 1599th but would like to save the money. They say could be a static code my scanner won't clear.

Thoughts?

well i did the adaption before but i was never sure if it really worked as my laptop always died lol (ive since bought a new battery and an in car adaptor to charge the laptop)

acutally did the adaption last night as the street in front of my house was empty due to construction, and took a chance and drove the car to and from work today (about 30 miles round trip) and havent had an issue. however thats only about a 20-25 minute drive each way, i usually start having issues after an hour or so. going to take a longer drive in a bit just to see what happens (id rather break down on an empty highway in the evening, rather than rush hour in miami in the blazing sun lol) will report back.


A solid PRND light might be a static code. I doubt that a flashing PRND is something that just "won't clear."

by static code, what do you mean? also flashing PRND is 99% tcm, if you replaced it, it is possible that the repair was done incorrectly (ive seen it on other forums where people have gotten their tcm back, installed, just to find it wasnt repaired right and had to send it back out to be corrected) what code does it give you when the tcm is flashing?

[customa4]

Lol I dunno, was just going with what he posted. What I was thinking by it is it's something that has to be cleared with VCDS, not like a battery reset or whatever.

[y0itzflip]

just an update, gave it a test (was taking a 60 mile RT drive and solid PRND before i even turned around. went away for a few minutes before i was able to pull over, then went solid again and stayed that way. tried to use VCDS to clear codes and see if anything looked strange and didnt find anything. waited 2 hours with the car off (luckily it was cool tonight and i have loads of games on my phone lol) turned it back on and still solid. gave in and called AAA lol. so now its either do the passat FWD manual swap or dump the car.

already looking at bmws again (had an e90 before i picked this car up, gave it to my little sister)

[Justab6guy]

P0706 tranmission range sensor. I can clear it out but when I start the car it comes right back with blinking prnd again

[SJorge3442]

just an update, gave it a test (was taking a 60 mile RT drive and solid PRND before i even turned around. went away for a few minutes before i was able to pull over, then went solid again and stayed that way. tried to use VCDS to clear codes and see if anything looked strange and didnt find anything. waited 2 hours with the car off (luckily it was cool tonight and i have loads of games on my phone lol) turned it back on and still solid. gave in and called AAA lol. so now its either do the passat FWD manual swap or dump the car.

already looking at bmws again (had an e90 before i picked this car up, gave it to my little sister)

Don't be upset at the b6. You're the one that bought a CVT. Get yourself a 5 or 6 speed and [drive]

[y0itzflip]

P0706 tranmission range sensor. I can clear it out but when I start the car it comes right back with blinking prnd again

99% sure that is the TCM would need replacing, as the transmission range sensor is part of the tcm

[y0itzflip]

Don't be upset at the b6. You're the one that bought a CVT. Get yourself a 5 or 6 speed and [drive]

lol a 5 speed swap is still a thought. i wish i did more research before i purchased the car, went to look at one car and just came across the deal and did a quick smartphone research and make the purchase as it was super cheap. now i know why it was so cheap lol.


i have a lot of aftermarket/cosmetic stuff sitting in the house, so thats the main reason i dont want to dump it lol. i had a vision and im THIS close to finishing, IF the car ran right lol. no point of having a car that looks good, but cant leave the driveway

by the way, this is what the car does when the PRND is solid.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N3TIhihBuc&app=desktop

[esamc2]

Reached out to Audi America directly who basically told me that because all the techs have looked again at servicing the TCM and found that the entire transmission is "the issue", they won't touch it and because all Audi dealers are owned separately, they couldn't force Audi Minneapolis to replace the TCM free of charge again. Kind of sounds like a crock of crap to me.

You replaced your TCM and solved your problems, or did NOT solve your problems? "Its all good not after TCM replacement" throws me off a bit.

Sorry that was a typo. It did solve my problem.. I have about 300miles on it with all kinds of driving including pushing it through Hills and it is holding up just fine. Hope it stays that way..

[esamc2]

lol a 5 speed swap is still a thought. i wish i did more research before i purchased the car, went to look at one car and just came across the deal and did a quick smartphone research and make the purchase as it was super cheap. now i know why it was so cheap lol.



i have a lot of aftermarket/cosmetic stuff sitting in the house, so thats the main reason i dont want to dump it lol. i had a vision and im THIS close to finishing, IF the car ran right lol. no point of having a car that looks good, but cant leave the driveway

by the way, this is what the car does when the PRND is solid.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N3TIhihBuc&app=desktop

If you are planning on dumping the car why not give a last try by sending the TCM back for repair.. It does have a lifetime warranty.. May be that will help?

[y0itzflip]

Sorry that was a typo. It did solve my problem.. I have about 300miles on it with all kinds of driving including pushing it through Hills and it is holding up just fine. Hope it stays that way..

hopefully, mine didnt start acting up until after my second tank of gas. so maybe about 5-600 miles

[y0itzflip]

If you are planning on dumping the car why not give a last try by sending the TCM back for repair.. It does have a lifetime warranty.. May be that will help?

because if im going do go through all that work again, i might as well just do the manual swap and avoid future headaches lol (which i may still do). my main issue is the labor/downtime. im just over the car being down.

[audireme]

A bit off the topic, if someone is removing the TCU, I would go further and remove the valve body and the second cover to change the inner filter. The filter is around $60. I just opened mine and the bottom of the filter was coated with fine, black mud. The external filter is the one that costs $350, but apparently made by Cohline. FCP sells Cohline around $180. Also, behind the valve body (held in by three screws), are six seals (five smaller and one larger) that are good to replace and not expensive either. Once I'm done, I'll post some photos.

[audireme]

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/502/medium/image1270.jpg

[y0itzflip]

good info. I didn't dig that deep into the tranny as its already sensitive and wasn't much info on going further. FYI I helped somebody change their tcm since I've done mine and theirs has been fine ever since.

[brandonbruyette]

Too add to the confusion of what's going on with my car I drove 240 & change miles today on the highway. Cruise control works great up and down hills, no limp mode even on big hills. Car ran great. Once I got "home" and into the city and stop lights and had to not use cruise anymore, boom, limp mode during the letting my foot off the gas deal. Spoke more with Audi USA and then strongly recommend paying Audi $140 to diagnose the car again.

Probably going to bring the car to a dealership and not tell them the cars past until they pull it up. Would like to hear them say the same thing without being told the TCM was done less then 12 months ago and less then 5,000 miles ago.[confused]

[diagnosticator]

Reached out to Audi America directly who basically told me that because all the techs have looked again at servicing the TCM and found that the entire transmission is "the issue", they won't touch it and because all Audi dealers are owned separately, they couldn't force Audi Minneapolis to replace the TCM free of charge again. Kind of sounds like a crock of crap to me.

You replaced your TCM and solved your problems, or did NOT solve your problems? "Its all good not after TCM replacement" throws me off a bit.

Tell Audi USA or the dealer, to clearly explain how replacing the transmission with a new one is going to address the faults shown by the DTCs stored. They must be able to justify the replacement of the trans instead of making up a story that provides no justification as a technical matter, that has no established known technical facts to support a diagnosis of "the trans is the issue", what is the DTCs for that? That is not a diagnosis it is nothing but Bull Shit from the mouths of the ignorant and confused group of idiots at the dealer. For the dealer to say "all the techs looked again at servicing the TCM, and found the transmission "is the issue", says nothing at all. A group of circus clowns would come up with the same answer. Audi must be able to explain how the trans "is the issue" and not the faulty parts malfunctions documented by the diagnostics scan. If the diagnostics is not trustworthy, and cannot indicate the true and accurate causes of the malfunctions occurring then how did the geniuses at the dealer figure out that all the parts except the components identified by the DTCs stored in the TCM fault memory, are causing the problem? Demand an explanation supported by established technical facts, why the existing DTCs cannot be addressed without replacing the trans with a new one. Audi is supposed to be staffed by technical experts. Instead, they are unable to determine the problem, cannot explain how the transmission replacement will fix the existing problem except by the obvious fact the the same parts are included in a new trans assembly. Unprofessional incompetent technical work like this, deserves to be fired, not used to support ripping off the customers. Demand accountability for what the dealer says. Who at the dealer is going to be the one who takes responsibility for this absurd nonsense? Ask!

I hope my rant inspires you to challenge the BS the dealer and Audi USA told you. If more of us did this routinely then the dealers would be held to a higher standard eventually.

[AlohaAudi]

QUOTE=y0itzflip;10984800]still waiting to get the TCM back in order to put it back together. i only put the trnasmission cover on to keep any debris out since im doing this in my driveway. mostly putting it back together is gonna be the exact opposite. most of the bolts only fit in one place, luckily, so itll be hard to mess that up. i heard you need vagcom to properly fill the transmission. i have the cable but the laptop died not too long ago so i havent been able to use it. trying to see if i can find a cheap laptop on craigslist to keep dedicated to vagcom usage.

oh and dont forget to order a new gasket for the transmission. the part number 01J301475N

its 8-10 dollars most places online. but then they charge shipping, so it ends up coming to 20 if you order online. im going to try my dealer because i cant justify paying such high shipping for an inexpensive part.


i will be posting here once i get the TCM back should be early next week. again i couldnt really find much info besides "buy a manual" or simply no replies. just post up if u have any questions, ill help with what i can.[/QUOTE]

This extensive thread on a DIY effort to replace a faulty CVT Transmission Control Module inspired me to give it a shot, given my 2003 Audi A6 is exhibiting all the hallmark symptoms - intermittently going into reverse, flashing gear indicator lights. To my surprise, I jacked the car and as you can see in the pic, I don't have a transmission support bracket/mount blocking my access to the rear cover. It's just not there. There are clearly bolt holes on the lower rear transmission that match what was in the DIY pictorial, but there doesn't seem to be a set of mount points on either side. Am I missing my bracket, or is it possible my Audi never came with one? Sorry image is upside down, darn TinyPic wouldn't allow me to save and upload right side up.

http://tinypic.com/r/sqkocn/9
http://i64.tinypic.com/sqkocn.jpg

[y0itzflip]

only thing I could think is maybe it was touched before and somebody didn't reinstall the mount/bracket. it is an a6 so it may be different...but I don't see why it wouldn't have a read mount.

and lol I have the same issue with tiny pic sometimes.

[ausman79]

Hi guys... Valuable info from everyone...really appreciate it.

Here's my situation, let me know if you have any feedback. I have a 2003 A6 CVT that started having the flashing PRND and reverse issues a few years back. In December of 2013, I had the TCM pulled out by a shop and sent to BBA Reman. They repaired it and sent it back within a week and the shop installed it. That resovled the Reverse issue and the car had been driving fine for almost two years. A few months ago, it started having random issues with transmission not engaging or sputtering. When I used to come to a stop sign and then accelerate, I could hear the engine rev but it does not engage. PRNT lights up inverted (not flashing like before). The car would eventually pick up speed and then be fine.

Now, it does not engage at all, in drive or reverse. I found a leak of ATF from where the plug of the TCM is coming out of the rear case. I'm hoping it's just a matter of low fluid. Thoughts?

Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
1-take out the TCM and send it back to BBA-Reman to confirm it is working (Lifetime warranty)
2-replace filters
3-put new seals
4-replace ATF

Anything else you guys would recommend or is there no point? It only has 117K miles.

esamc2- is yours still running okay? Any advice?

[customa4]

There was a TSB for bucking from a standstill on the CVT. Basically the requirement was to rebuild the transmission. I'll see if I can find it.

Edit: Here ya go. Click (http://uberlame.com/a6_tsb/Transmission/Bucking%20when%20accelerating%20from%20a%20standst ill.pdf)

Read through it and perform the tests, which I don't think you can at this point because the car isn't driving. There's some information there that might help you out.

[ausman79]

A bit off the topic, if someone is removing the TCU, I would go further and remove the valve body and the second cover to change the inner filter. The filter is around $60. I just opened mine and the bottom of the filter was coated with fine, black mud. The external filter is the one that costs $350, but apparently made by Cohline. FCP sells Cohline around $180. Also, behind the valve body (held in by three screws), are six seals (five smaller and one larger) that are good to replace and not expensive either. Once I'm done, I'll post some photos.

Do you have the part numbers or suggestions where to purchase them from? Filters and seals.

[audireme]

I got all of them between genuineaudiparts.com, ecstuning, and my local dealer. I don't have part numbers with me right now, but if you can't find them, let me know. I'm flying across the pond tomorrow, so I may not get back till mid January. Btw, the transmission works great now, very responsive, no hesitation at all when switching from D to R, or any other way

[Lao]

Hi, all!

Does anyone know a good mechanic around 28078 (Huntersville, NC) that would be able to get the TCM off my Audi? I've been quoted 850$ for labor.

[esamc2]

Hi guys... Valuable info from everyone...really appreciate it.

Here's my situation, let me know if you have any feedback. I have a 2003 A6 CVT that started having the flashing PRND and reverse issues a few years back. In December of 2013, I had the TCM pulled out by a shop and sent to BBA Reman. They repaired it and sent it back within a week and the shop installed it. That resovled the Reverse issue and the car had been driving fine for almost two years. A few months ago, it started having random issues with transmission not engaging or sputtering. When I used to come to a stop sign and then accelerate, I could hear the engine rev but it does not engage. PRNT lights up inverted (not flashing like before). The car would eventually pick up speed and then be fine.

Now, it does not engage at all, in drive or reverse. I found a leak of ATF from where the plug of the TCM is coming out of the rear case. I'm hoping it's just a matter of low fluid. Thoughts?

Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
1-take out the TCM and send it back to BBA-Reman to confirm it is working (Lifetime warranty)
2-replace filters
3-put new seals
4-replace ATF

Anything else you guys would recommend or is there no point? It only has 117K miles.

esamc2- is yours still running okay? Any advice?
Running Strong! no problems whatsoever... Good luck

[y0itzflip]

been driving the car the last few months. havent really taken it more then 10-15 mile (per way) trips. as im still worried lol. however on these short trips, the car has beeen fine.

[dmirocha]

Here's the write up that I made that I never fully completed. I haven't uploaded pictures but here's the text.

Things you'll need:
*Vag-Com- If you cannot monitor the transmission temperatures, do not attempt to change your fluid. It is critical to the operation of your transmission that the oil is at a certain temperature when the level is being checked. These transmissions are very sensitive and overfilling or under-filling can cause problems for you. Problems will be avoided if you follow instructions and monitor the temperature.

*Fluid Pump-You will need a fluid pump to put the fluid into the transmission. The fill plug and the drain plug are both on the bottom of the transmission so you will be pumping the fluid from the bottle up into the transmission. I paid about $12 from Advanced Auto Parts for a "Performance Tool Quart & Gallon Pump". It comes with some some hose that attaches to the pump to be able to go up into the transmission. It was perfect for the job.

*Multi-Point Bit-3357- This tool can be purchased from metalnerd.com and it's a little more than half the way down the page here (http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm). On there site it is labeled as Part MN2567 - Gear Box Drain Bit. It can be purchased for $25. Someone else might have a another idea for removing this plug like some vice grips but you will not be able to get the proper torque spec when re-installing if you choose this method.

*At least 5 liters of CVT fluid. NOT REGULAR ATF. Regular ATF and CVT fluid are different, you need to have CVT fluid. I picked up 6 liters to be safe but you will only need 5 liters if you follow the instructions. I paid roughly $13.50 a liter and my local dealer told me they had 12 liters in stock. So let's just say about rroughly $70 for 5 liters of OEM fluid.
Part # is G 052 180 A2

*Something to get the car level. Whether it be on a lift, jackstands, or ramps and jackstands. In my case what was available to me was a frame machine so that's what I used. Just try and make sure you get the car as level as possible for filling and checking fluid level.

*Oil pan to catch the fluid.


Step 1.)Get your car level.

Step 2.)Use your mult-point bit 3357 to remove the drain plug and get rid of the oil
Do not run the engine with the fluid drained from the system or tow the car.

Step 3.)Put the drain plug back in. The torque spec on this plug is 24 Nm.

Step 4.)Remove the fill/inspection plug to fill up with fluid.

Step 5.)Fill with 4.5 to 5 liters of CVT fluid. Put the fill/inspection plug back in before continuing. The torque spec is 30 Nm.
In my case it took about 4.5 to 4.75 before it would not take anymore fluid.

Step 6.)With the car in Park, start the car and let it idle.
ONLY 2005+ cars, rev the engine briefly to at least 2,500 RPMs to bleed the air out of the ATF pump.

Step 7.)Hold the brake pedal and shift through the gears PRNDS and leave in each gear for at least 2 seconds with the engine idling.

Step 8.)Put the car back in Park and let it idle.

Step 9.)Start up VCDS and go to [02-Auto Trans][Meas Blocks-08] Group 10 and hit Go! In the third box over you will see the Transmission Fluid Temp.

Step 10.)You want the temperature to be at 35* when checking the fluid. If the temp is too low, you will overfill and if the temp is to high you will under-fill.

Step 11.)When the temperature has reached 35* get under the car and remove the fill/inspection plug. When you remove the plug some of the fluid will spill out, under a quarter cup of fluid should come out. If the fluid continues to come out before reaching 40* then you're all done and you can put the plug back in. It is recommended that you replace this plug at this point. Again, the torque spec is 30 Nm.
Do no let the temp get up to 45* or too much fluid will get out when you remove the plug and you will not get a good reading on the level.

In step 11, is the car still running at idle? If so, I remove the fill plug at 35*, let it drip/drain until the temp reaches 40*, then replace the fill plug and then that's it? Sounds so easy! If only the VAG COM was easy to figure out.