DIY:Diagnose and Repair of Loose Wastegate Flapper (P0299)

[van462]

Photos moved to Google Drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_v5AoUXw2DSOU5jYm52NUx1REk


After reading the Ticking While Coasting thread I realized I should recheck my wastegate flapper to see is the wastegate could be adjusted. Here is a little DIY that will allow for an easy diagnosis and repair routes available. I bought my car used and it was just out of warrenty when I bought it, I had APR software loaded in the same week. So I didn't have a baseline to what a new car felt like.

Ticking while coasting thread
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/539883-Ticking-Noise-While-Coasting?highlight=p0299

Symptoms: Low RPM throttle response sluggish. ticking noise while coasting (wastegate chatter), P0299 code (mine was very intermitted, maybe 4 times a year and usually only with suspect gas).

Results after fix: Improved throttle response, fewer transmission shifts on hills, 2nd gear starts and slow roll offs (auto) are much improved. Turbo spool improved/back to spec. Overall more torque available.

Procedure shown is with a HFC installed, stock cat may differ in clearance available. Procedure done while on car ramps.

First step is to verify the problem with the least amount of disassembly. Remove MAF connector and airbox hoses. Pull airbox straight up and out of the way. This will allow visual inspection of the wastegate actuator rod. You can actually get you hand on it without pulling the airbox if you know where to feel. Rod is highlighted. If rod has any play your wastegate is not seating and you are losing boost. If you are under warranty and no TD1 its time to visit the dealer for a free turbo. If rod has no play and you have P0299 code; likely your N75 valve has failed or you may need a new turbo. Pulling the cat back for a visual inspection would verify if the wastegate is the problem. Shady fix for around 2 dollars.


http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/Heatshield_zps29100932.png (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/Heatshield_zps29100932.png.html)



Remove front O2 sensor. The rearmost O2 ensure you have enough wire slack to slide the cat about 8 inches back and down. Remove 4 nuts from the cat to turbo flange. On the bottom side of the car remove the main splash guard. remove 2 nuts on the exhaust coupling in behind the resonator. You may want to have 2 spare bolts and nuts as these often need to be cut off or will shear in half, 1/4"x20tpi x1" should work (M8x25mm). I left the HFC attached to the downpipe as those bolts are no fun. Remove the bolt securing the HFC to the transmission (auto). I did the bottom bolt on the bracket so I wouldn't have to fight the one with the spring on it. Sorry no photos of this.
Alternately- (Credit to Tom_A4) Instead of taking the exhaust apart at the resonator you can simply go to the rear of the car at the muffler and slip the exhaust hanger out of the rubber mount. This allows you to move the whole exhaust system back enough to access the backside of the turbo without worry of breaking the exhaust bolts.

Below you can see the wastegate. This one is floating on the arm and sits off the exhaust port by about 3/32". The wastegate actuator should have spring tension against it. There is no adjustment available on the actuator rod as there were on previous K03's

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/2_zps725d24e6.png (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/2_zps725d24e6.png.html)

This write-up originally had the flapper temp fixed using Mig wire to shim the flapper. I wanted to see if this was actually causing my problems before I started to actually modify anything. This is why you may see references in following threads. Alex1188 found that Forge makes a replacement actuator, and that the actuator can be removed without pulling off the turbo. I decided to first modify my actuator as the low cost fix, but I may go with Forge in the future as its a quality part and possible power gains. Forge part number is FMACVAG08.

From the first photo remove the heatshield above the exhaust manifold. It is held in place by 2 M10 triple square bolts and a 6MM allen bolt. Remove the air inlet hose to the turbo (7mm hex bolts or common screwdriver). Next remove 2 5mm bolts from the crankcase breather hose on the turbo inlet. The hose is flexible enough to be moved out of the way and doesn't need to be completely removed. Remove the fabric heatshield from the turbo coolant line (4 snaps). Remove the hose from the N75 valve going to the actuator. Its on the very front of the turbo.

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/IMG_4717_zps45139ad5.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/IMG_4717_zps45139ad5.jpg.html)

The coolant line causes most of the issues in changing out the actuator as it limits room to access the screws. It didn't look that easy to remove the line as it has bad access as well. I chose to work with it in place. There are 2 5mm allen bolts that secure the actuator. I used a cut down 5mm allen and a allen bit with a wrench to remove them.

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/IMG_4721_zps884765e9.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/IMG_4721_zps884765e9.jpg.html)
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/wrench_zps4ecfcd00.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/wrench_zps4ecfcd00.jpg.html)

Remove the e clip from the rod end. Having the cat out of the way makes this much easier.

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/3_zpsc261e098.png (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/3_zpsc261e098.png.html)

Slide the actuate fwd and down to remove from the car.

I chose to modify my actuator. I figured if I messed up at least there is now a viable replacement option. I also thought by staying stock spring rate I may have less adjustments to do later to prevent overboosting. Best of all its easy. I cut the actuator rod about an inch past where the bracket ends. Secure the rod with a vice or vicegrips to prevent possible internal wastegate damage from the shaft spinning while threading. I then removed 1/4" of rod length. I threaded both ends 1/4"-20tpi. Recoupled the rod using a thread union from Lowes. I would have preferred the infinite adjustment of a turnbuckle setup vs using a union but I down have a left handed die.
Photo should say "Rod was cut and 1/4" removed."
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/IMG_4722_zps9db36145.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/IMG_4722_zps9db36145.jpg.html)

Because its a union fitting and not a turnbuckle you have to turn the rod end in 1 full turn increments to adjust the length. I put actuator end into the flapper arm and then looked at the actuator mounting holes. I adjusted the end 1 full turn at a time until the mount holes required me to slightly pull on the actuator to put the bolts in. Before I installed the bolts slide the actuator to the rear and install the e clip on the flapper arm. Install the 2 actuator bolts. Alternately you could bolt the actuator down first. Then spin the rod end until its just won't go into the actuator arm. Using an air compressor set to 10 psi pressurize the actuator (the rod will extend) and install the e clip. I like to air cycle it a few times to make sure the exhaust flapper is seating. The stock actuator should start movement at 4psi and be fully open at 10psi. You can also tinker here if you wish and adjust the rod shorter and increase spring preload. Doing this you should really do data logs of requested and actual boost. I don't have a vagcom cable, so I kept a conservative setting of the wastegate just closing with very little preload.





Photos moved to Google Drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_v5AoUXw2DSOU5jYm52NUx1REk

[Highlander1010]

Did your car ever stall in 1st gear b/c of this?

[Alex1188]

Besides I hoping it will withstand the heat. If not I'll try something else. I didn't want to try tack welding without knowing if this was going to even help or not.

Mig wire that size has a melting point of 2800 degrees F or so, and average exhaust temps for turbo car is around 1600 degree F. You could see spikes of up to 1900 in ehaust temps but actually anything hotter than that and your destroying your turbo....

[Mtr24]

This is awesome. I felt bad that I couldn't add more to my thread due to my lack of technical experience, so I'm happy someone could go more in depth into finding an affordable solution. Well done! Now the stealerships are gonna have to find another way to rob us all blind haha

[craigiemac412]

Well hell, Cleatus!

Awesome though man. I'm still in the process of getting my shit taken care of. I am still under warranty so I'm trying to get the dealer to correct this obviously then....but it's a lot more difficult than you think haha. After being told by the shop foreman in a ride-along that this ticking noise is normal, the odds of getting them to just go in and check the wastegate flapper without following "proper diagnostic protocol" is slim to none. I honestly might have to wait until it actually fails for them to look at this shit :-(

[van462]

Did your car ever stall in 1st gear b/c of this?

No stalling for me. Really just the annoying rattle when coasting. Didn't notice it much when I lived on the east coast due to it being fairly flat terrain. Now where I'm at it was more noticeable.


This is awesome. I felt bad that I couldn't add more to my thread due to my lack of technical experience, so I'm happy someone could go more in depth into finding an affordable solution. Well done! Now the stealerships are gonna have to find another way to rob us all blind haha

Thanks for getting me to actually look there for the noise. I debated pulling the turbo off and adding an adjustment to the actuator rod. But I saw an easy out and took it.

Its doubtful a dealership will go looking for a problem without a CEL, from the gap mine had, I really wonder how much it would take to even get a fault to consistently occur. With just a noise complaint they will likely fall back on the "within parameters" excuse. From what I saw I would have a hard time seeing this part go into failure mode to where there is no wastegate flapper. Now if somehow the wastegate received 100 psi vs 10.....

[Mtr24]

Yea mine got pretty bad after a few months the point where I had a like a pound or 2 of boost. So the dealer would have been happy to replace my turbo for 4k. I even made a game out of trying to drive the 7 miles to and from work without the CEL coming back, I rarely won haha. On my way to the shop to have it looked at it finally gave out completely and it was like driving a NA 2.0. Almost died trying to beat an 18 wheeler when merging only to find out I had no turbo.

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[Alex1188]

If rod has fore and aft play your wastegate is not seating and you are losing boost.

So i actually just got this code today after replacing the intake manifold which was also broken ( seems like one thing after another lately lol) and i checked the waste gate rod and im kinda of confused on this statement...Do you mean play as in it can move side to side like pushing it closer to the motor, or like moving the rod in parallel with its self? mine has a small amount of play moving it closer to the motor and back toward the fender. think this could be my culprit as well?...im assuming it shouldnt have any play at all...

[van462]

After I shimmed it I had no movement. Before it moved parallel with the engine. Mine was around 1/8 to 1/4 inch movement. Was the code present prior to intake maint. Do you have good idle. Follow the boost hose from the intake manifold to where it couples to the plastic sound box. The charge pressure sensor is there. It may have gotten disconnected when doing the intake.

[Alex1188]

After I shimmed it I had no movement. Before it moved parallel with the engine. Mine was around 1/8 to 1/4 inch movement. Was the code present prior to intake maint. Do you have good idle. Follow the boost hose from the intake manifold to where it couples to the plastic sound box. The charge pressure sensor is there. It may have gotten disconnected when doing the intake.

I have CTS Intercooler Kit, never removed the plumbing that way, and the sensor is still connected, maybe oily idk if that would affect it. But yes i have good idle i can build boost up to 15 psi no problem but i know it should be much higher than that at stage 2. If i dont floor it and easy into (auto trans) it ill spike 19psi but i quickly tappers off. The only thing i can think of is maybe my intercooler hoses came loose some were, the MAP sensor is messed up, or bad gas maybe?? Im honestly lost lol

[van462]

Revamped post by modifying the stock actuator. Also details on how to replace the actuator. Thanks Alex1188 for you help.

[Alex1188]

Revamped post by modifying the stock actuator. Also details on how to replace the actuator. Thanks Alex1188 for you help.

Ya man glad i could help, ill post some pics of Forges Actuator in this thread for everyone some time this weekend, i actually was messing with the preload on mine today. to bad i didnt get on here earlier haha, but hows that modification working out for you??

[van462]

It's only been a day, but having the torque back is great. ECU will likely have to relearn. I cleared adaptations using APR. I may add some preload as well.

[A4 Centaur]

van, great work! Thank you for the great write up!

[Alex1188]

Just wanted to add something to this thread for you all to watch out for seeing how it has now happened to me and may not be the only one...

I recently installed forge actuator as some of you know to fix this p0299 issue, well yes the forge unit is great and will fix it IF your case isnt like mine and its actually the actuator that has gone bad by loosing its spring tension or flap disk becoming loose.

In my case yes my actuator was bad and the disk was loose but after having the forge unit on for a while and messing around with preload, this solution has become less of a solution and have discovered something else to add to the list of causes for this p0299 code.

There is a bushing on the shaft that the actuator connects to that runs through the exhaust manifold into the inside, the bushing will wear out and cause the shaft to become loose and leak and bind. or even allow the wastegate disk or door to not cover the hole any more.

Here are some vids that i have found that is the same problem...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SSnjzUgOXRA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ugd4cQkKfyY

[2010b8a4apr2]

i bought a new wastegate actuator from ebay, kinugawa, from taiwan, company is from california. I figured id give it a try. its adjustable and i can chamge spring rates. I havent had any issues yet. It's only $135. Well worth it. Glad to see you got the wategate out without pulling turbo. I just pulled mine.

[SDF1]

Quick question: To test the problem you write " If rod has fore and aft play your wastegate is not seating and you are losing boost. "
Can you elaborate on this further please. Would it be loose or you need some force to move the wastegate?

[van462]

The actuator spring applies quite a bit of clamping pressure. It shouldn't wiggle at all. Where its located I don't think it's possible to even move it with your fingers if its not worn.

[SDF1]

So how do I check if I have a problem? If I don't have a code.

[Alex1188]

So how do I check if I have a problem? If I don't have a code.

Vag com, run log of block 115 to check actual boost versus specified, you can also log duty cycle of the n75 valve(forget what block) to see if you have a 100% duty cycle or close.

[van462]

Just do a visual inspection. Follow step 1 in the first post. You can actually check the actuator rod for play without any disassembly. If it moves, go complain to a dealer first and complain about the rattle when decelerating and power lose. They may cover a new turbo. I originally found mine when putting on a HFC and noticed it loose.

[Alex1188]

UPDATE!:

So after having the Forge Actuator for about 3 months now, and playing with preload, and different spring rates, i just couldnt find that perfect OEM replacement spec on the Forge Actuator, the green spring in the Forge Actuator would be perfect for someone who has no tune and is completely stock as far a PSI wise, great for that. As far as having any tune, the green spring is to soft and wont allow any psi higher than 16-17 unless its really preloaded which will affect low end boost contoll and cause spiking. The next spring up is the Yellow spring, this spring would be great for a tune, as it allows that 20-24 psi of boost but wont allow any boost controll bellow 10Psi, so for anyone who has an off the shelf tune like APR, UNI, REVO ect, this spring is going to cause boost spikes and timing pull in low boost applications.

So further more i decided to give Van462 Actuator mod a try, hell for less than 2$ at lowes or home depot and little time, this is the BEST solution to the problem of the p0299 and underboost conditions related to loose wastegate flapper. I just installed this today and by tighting it up about a little more than 1/8" im with in .100bar or requested boost along the whole rpm band, i think if i tighten it up just a little more it would be PERFECT and back to how it should be working...

So in summery if your only stage 1 or 2 go with the solution Van462 had came up with, otherwise if your stock, you could buy Forges Actuator and put the green spring in. Hope this helps everyone!!

PS: I know Member (2010b8a4apr2) had boughten a different replacement Actuator made by Kinugawa and has reported success with, but i would be very interested in seeing some VagCom Logs along with it

[van462]

Were you able to do it with the cat still on, or did you slide it back?

[Alex1188]

Were you able to do it with the cat still on, or did you slide it back?

Removed only the air box and heat wrap on the oil line, ive pretty much got it down to a system cuz of soooo much logging and playing with the Forge Actuator haha!!

Oh and that part to join the two rods together is a Coupling Nut, i know you said Threaded Union, which is pretty much the same thing only a threaded union doesnt go all the way through, but props to you man on doing it that way, it is by far the best fix for this problem unless you want something shinny that you can barely see. lol

[2010b8a4apr2]

Heck I would like to see some vagcom logs too.....

[Alex1188]

Heck I would like to see some vagcom logs too.....

Dont know if your being sarcastic and and saying you would like to see mine from all of this and calling me out on this...
or you would actually like to see your own car logged.....
but sure, ill post some of both spring rates with forge's and the modded actuator, im a firm believer in pics(logs in this case) or i didnt happen...

[2010b8a4apr2]

Not being sarcastic I would really like to see my logs. I kept the stock spring

[Alex1188]

Alright so today i did some logging on my way to work in mid afternoon with the modified stock actuator and this is what it looked like....


http://imageshack.us/a/img706/1846/xxvl.jpg


Not to bad since it was within 1 psi of boost throughout the whole rev range...

I then tightened the actuator one half turn and logged boost on the way home at 8pm, so granted the air was cooler and probably slightly more dense but not enough that should have made a difference....


http://imageshack.us/a/img38/539/m9si.jpg

Again Run Two...

http://imageshack.us/a/img12/70/7kwb.jpg

Keep in mind i live in colorado, which is why i have low boost request in the high RPM's and the goofy jump in the middle could have been cause by my car being an TIP and its hard to run a full boost run in 3rd without it downshifting, but overall you guys get the pic... ill see if i can dig up the older logs of the broken stock actuator which was boosting only a peak of 14 and trailing to 7-8PSI by 5500RPMS. Yes this diy may not be a perfect fix but hey its pretty darn close!! Also for guys who dont know a P0299 Code will only create a CEL with a 4psi difference for a long duration, but doesnt mean it wont be a pending DTC. Vag Com is the only way to solve the mystery P0299 code...

Im not giving up on this problem until it is 100% fixed, dont worry ive got you guys covered, ill find a long term solution that is inexpensive and doesnt require to replace the turbo...

[wabbit23]

Just to clarify the "fore and aft play" am I supposed to be able to move the shaft at all. The end of the shaft going to the turbo has almost no play but the other end I can move around a bit. I definitely have all the signs of this issue but want to clarify here before I take the car back to the dealership.


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[Alex1188]

Just to clarify the "fore and aft play" am I supposed to be able to move the shaft at all. The end of the shaft going to the turbo has almost no play but the other end I can move around a bit. I definitely have all the signs of this issue but want to clarify here before I take the car back to the dealership.


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Should have no play at all and be completely tight, most likely its the starting stages of the wastegate actuator going bad, in which case if your under warranty audi should replace the whole turbo

[SejRamkas]

My car has recently started making a bit of a fluttering sound when I accelerate and immediately let off the throttle. The RPM's also drop very rapidly in the mid to lower range between 2k and 4k RPMs when this is happening. Could this be my issue? No rattling sound as described when coasting just this strange sound. Regardless I brought this issue up with the dealer and the service manager rode along and also noticed the sound and immediately said it was prob a turbo issue (which I agree with), so maybe I will be lucky and they will replace it without too much fight. Think it might be a bit more sluggish than normal on acceleration as well.

[Alex1188]

My car has recently started making a bit of a fluttering sound when I accelerate and immediately let off the throttle. The RPM's also drop very rapidly in the mid to lower range between 2k and 4k RPMs when this is happening. Could this be my issue? No rattling sound as described when coasting just this strange sound. Regardless I brought this issue up with the dealer and the service manager rode along and also noticed the sound and immediately said it was prob a turbo issue (which I agree with), so maybe I will be lucky and they will replace it without too much fight. Think it might be a bit more sluggish than normal on acceleration as well.

Could be wastegate flutter, hard to say because a Diverter valve can flutter too. but if your saying its sluggish i would bet that its a beginning stage of the wastegate actuator going bad.

[van462]

Just to clarify on the fluttering sound. Does it only flutter once you let off the gas or while on throttle?

[wabbit23]

My winding down/grinding sound is mainly heard when I'm sitting in my garage in park. I rev the motor to anything above 2k and Ill get that when the RPM's decelerate. Plus I have the ridiculous amount of lag and lack of power. Ugh!!! I've only had this car for 2 weeks and I'm already dealing with all of these problems. Thankfully its CPO'd but the dealership looked at it already, even heard the sound and nothing. They said the sound was perfectly normal. :/


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[Deacon_cs]

My winding down/grinding sound is mainly heard when I'm sitting in my garage in park. I rev the motor to anything above 2k and Ill get that when the RPM's decelerate. Plus I have the ridiculous amount of lag and lack of power. Ugh!!! I've only had this car for 2 weeks and I'm already dealing with all of these problems. Thankfully its CPO'd but the dealership looked at it already, even heard the sound and nothing. They said the sound was perfectly normal. :/


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Did you manage to fix the problem?

[SejRamkas]

Just to clarify on the fluttering sound. Does it only flutter once you let off the gas or while on throttle?

Sound only comes when I let off the throttle after punching it a bit and causing the RPMs to go up about 2k. Mostly happens between the 2K to 3.5K range. I have never noticed it before. I have also never driven a car with a turbo so I am not very familiar with the different sounds they will make.

[wabbit23]

Did you manage to fix the problem?

The cars at the dealership for the second time. I changed the plugs out to see if it did anything and am about to order R8 coil packs as well since I still have a slightly bouncy idle.

This car is at 57k and according to the service records the last time the plugs were changed out was at 41k. This is what they all looked like when I pulled them out-
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/12/y2u2apat.jpg

The dealer is insisting that everything seems fine as far as the turbo goes but by the looks of the old plugs at about 16k of wear there seems to be a bigger problem. The new plugs made a decent difference on the idle and I definitely got some torque back but the grinding/winding down sound is still present when I rev the engine. They're looking into the sound today but they said the car drove fine and they had 4 guys look it over and drive it.
I'm starting to consider this car might end up as perfect candidate for some lemon law action with the amount of issues its had in the two weeks of ownership.




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[wabbit23]

I'm also considering the valves might be gunked up badly considering how bad my plugs looked.


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[van462]

wabbit23 do you have any oil consumption issues. That a lot of deposit on the plug. The only thing that i know of that usually gives a grinding sound that matches engine speed is a worn timing chain tensioner. It may be letting the chain hit the cover. That could also cause a flaky idle.

SemRamkas- your sound may be normal. When you let off the throttle the diverter valve is deenergized. Pressure from the intake tract overrides the spring in the dv and the air dumps back in before the turbo and decreasing the pressure to atmosphere pressure. Some people can hear it others can't. Usually the valve just opens until the air pressure can no longer override the spring and it closes. The piston style valves that the B8 uses don't break like the older B7 style did. If the DV fails it will usually fail in a way that it doesn't energize and seal boost pressure.
The PCV can cause a shrill sound when not in boost if it is going bad. It sounds a lot like a dry bearing spinning.

[wabbit23]

Van 462
Thanks. Ill have the dealer check out the tensioner as well. They decided the turbo was the culprit for the grinding sound so they decided to replace it. I should be getting the car back tomorrow afternoon so Ill post an update on how the new turbo effects the drivability.


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[wabbit23]

Oh yeah, and I'm not too sure about the oil consumption issue. I've only had the car for about two weeks and out of that I've been driving loaners around.


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[wabbit23]

The new turbo is in. No more sound but I'm definitely not at the power level I should be at yet. Some of it does have to do with the shift points on the 8 speed tiptronic tranny but even in manual mode it still feels like it its missing something. I'm gonna try some R8 coil packs since the ones on there might be worn. Gas mileage sucks too so they might help that too.


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[nikatrel]

I've had the P0299 underboost code for about 4 months now. Took it to Audi today, I need a new turbo. Out of warranty. I also had a broken motor mount, go figure. $3650 later.... :(

[wabbit23]

I've had the P0299 underboost code for about 4 months now. Took it to Audi today, I need a new turbo. Out of warranty. I also had a broken motor mount, go figure. $3650 later.... :(

Damn. The reliability of this turbo definitely has me worried. Sucks you were out of warranty but I would've gone K04 for that much $$$. Probably would've came out less too.


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[heffer]

I guess I need some clarification as well. I got the P0299 today. I installed some different mufflers Wednesday (shouldn't be relevant). I'm not sure how you guys are griping the rod to move it but, I CAN get it to wiggle up and down. But as far as parallel to the engine, I can't tell. I cleared the code using the Torque app and my car is definitely boosting. Any help would be tremendously appreciated.

[Alex1188]

I guess I need some clarification as well. I got the P0299 today. I installed some different mufflers Wednesday (shouldn't be relevant). I'm not sure how you guys are griping the rod to move it but, I CAN get it to wiggle up and down. But as far as parallel to the engine, I can't tell. I cleared the code using the Torque app and my car is definitely boosting. Any help would be tremendously appreciated.

You shouldnt be able to move it at all in any way, the rod should be completely tight. I know when i found mine start to go bad, i could move it the same as you described, so your wastegate actuator is loosing its spring tension and is on its way out more than likely. But the honest to god only way to find out exactly is to run a log of boost requested and actual to really see...

[SDF1]

You shouldnt be able to move it at all in any way, the rod should be completely tight. I know when i found mine start to go bad, i could move it the same as you described, so your wastegate actuator is loosing its spring tension and is on its way out more than likely. But the honest to god only way to find out exactly is to run a log of boost requested and actual to really see...

Alex can you please post what to LOG in VCDS?

[heffer]

You shouldnt be able to move it at all in any way, the rod should be completely tight. I know when i found mine start to go bad, i could move it the same as you described, so your wastegate actuator is loosing its spring tension and is on its way out more than likely. But the honest to god only way to find out exactly is to run a log of boost requested and actual to really see...

Got the P0299 again today. What do I need to log in VCDS so we can see?

[van462]

Vag com, run log of block 115 to check actual boost versus specified, you can also log duty cycle of the n75 valve(forget what block) to see if you have a 100% duty cycle or close.
Here's the info he posted earlier. The ECU should control boost using the N75 to actuate the waste gate. Actual boost should stay fairly close to requested boost. 299 being triggered indicates that actual boost fell below expected (requested) levels. Post 28 shows the logs. Notice on the logs also that with the actuator adjustments you see the boost sometimes spike over requested; if the waste gate duty cycle was shown with it you would see the ECU attempt to correct the spike by actuating the waste gate open.
There is normally preload on the rod that is strong enough to prevent any movement of the actuator rod unless you use Visegrip pliers

[heffer]

Awesome thanks. I don't think I'm daring enough to modify my actuator. Is the forge a direct fit?


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[Alex1188]

Awesome thanks. I don't think I'm daring enough to modify my actuator. Is the forge a direct fit?


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Forges "Fits" but your gonna spends DAYS trying to get it dialed in, and still may not have a perfect replacement, if you are close to sea level or stock tuning, then i may work out, but if not i would stay away from it, trust me, hours wasted and 300$ later i ended up modifying my actuator...

[heffer]

Removed only the air box and heat wrap on the oil line, ive pretty much got it down to a system cuz of soooo much logging and playing with the Forge Actuator haha!!

Oh and that part to join the two rods together is a Coupling Nut, i know you said Threaded Union, which is pretty much the same thing only a threaded union doesnt go all the way through, but props to you man on doing it that way, it is by far the best fix for this problem unless you want something shinny that you can barely see. lol

Could you explain how you did this without removing the cat? I've got the actuator bolts off right now, I'm not sure how to reach the rod end to get the clip off. You remove the o2 sensor?

[Alex1188]

Could you explain how you did this without removing the cat? I've got the actuator bolts off right now, I'm not sure how to reach the rod end to get the clip off. You remove the o2 sensor?

I used a long wood awl to pop the c-clip off the end of the actuator(not the best way if your trying to reuse the c-clip, i went to the hardware store and bought like 10 of them), and to put it back on i used a long needle nose vise grip to ensure i didn't loose the c-clip, and yes removed the O2 sensor to add a little extra space...

[heffer]

I used a long wood awl to pop the c-clip off the end of the actuator(not the best way if your trying to reuse the c-clip, i went to the hardware store and bought like 10 of them), and to put it back on i used a long needle nose vise grip to ensure i didn't loose the c-clip, and yes removed the O2 sensor to add a little extra space...

K i'm gonna try your way. What size of c clips 3/16?

[Alex1188]

K i'm gonna try your way. What size of c clips 3/16?

it def not easy to do, but it beats not having to take the whole turbo off, small hands or small tools are the key...

oh and i think 3/16 is right, i would just take the actuator to the hardware store once you get it off...

[heffer]

I used a long wood awl to pop the c-clip off the end of the actuator(not the best way if your trying to reuse the c-clip, i went to the hardware store and bought like 10 of them), and to put it back on i used a long needle nose vise grip to ensure i didn't loose the c-clip, and yes removed the O2 sensor to add a little extra space...

What a disaster, I broke my n75 valve while I was at it. I cant get the stupid c-clip to clip. I'm so frustrated right now. Car is down in out till I decide what to do.

[heffer]

A friend from work is going to help me remove the cat. How easy is it to do from above?
Got a new valve ordered, should be here Wednesday.

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[Alex1188]

A friend from work is going to help me remove the cat. How easy is it to do from above?
Got a new valve ordered, should be here Wednesday.

What Wastegate actuator did you order? and it would be ALOT easier to remove the cat with atleast some jack stands, to get to the bottom nut closest to the motor, its do-able from above, but again your gonna run into clearance issues

[heffer]

What Wastegate actuator did you order? and it would be ALOT easier to remove the cat with atleast some jack stands, to get to the bottom nut closest to the motor, its do-able from above, but again your gonna run into clearance issues

I broke my n75 trying to get the hose off... so that's what I ordered. I found a wastegate on eBay that came off a wrecked car (that's what I'm replacing mine with). Figured I could modify my old one if needs be. Don't think I want to try replacing this again though. I don't have the socket extensions to get it from the bottom and I don't want to have to purchase them. Read someone was able to get that bottom nut from the top with just a 10 inch extension.

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[Alex1188]

I broke my n75 trying to get the hose off... so that's what I ordered. I found a wastegate on eBay that came off a wrecked car (that's what I'm replacing mine with). Figured I could modify my old one if needs be. Don't think I want to try replacing this again though. I don't have the socket extensions to get it from the bottom and I don't want to have to purchase them. Read someone was able to get that bottom nut from the top with just a 10 inch extension.

Ya you'll be able to get to it, just kind of a pain in the butt if you ask me, thats the route i went when i installed my HFC. Thats cool that you were able to find a wastegate actuator off ebay, how much you end up paying for it?

[heffer]

Ya you'll be able to get to it, just kind of a pain in the butt if you ask me, thats the route i went when i installed my HFC. Thats cool that you were able to find a wastegate actuator off ebay, how much you end up paying for it?

30 bucks. Thanks for your help with everything btw Alex

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[Frinkferta]

All HFC bolts can be reached from the top of the car with a couple different extension sizes..I have had to change mine out twice now. There is just enough room by the transmission and firewall to loosen and tighten the bolts.

[van462]

Also you don't have to remove the HFC from the downpipe. With the front of the car on ramps or jackstands remove the 2 pinch bolts just past the resonator. Have new bolts handy they like to shear off; 1/2" head x 1/4"shank x 1" long or 13mm x 5mm maybe 6mm shank 25mm long a little longer helps even more. The 4 HFC bolts that can be done from the top,( factory does tighten the crap out of them). Remove the bolt holding it to the transmission as well, usually reach up around the A arm (go for the one actually to the transmission and not the spring one to make it easier).

Then you can slide the cat and downpipe back together. I pull the front O2 off but sometimes leave the back one installed. You really only need the extra 4 or 6 inches back to make access to the e eclip easier. Once you do it once, it really only takes about 10 minutes if you ever do it again. Be sure to use PB blaster or some sort of penetrate lube on all bolts

[heffer]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I really appreciate all the info and tips you have given me!

[heffer]

Got my vehicle all put together yesterday. Got the p0299 again today....[headbang] looks like this could be costly. I'm gonna take it to the dealer as soon as I can. I'll let ya'll now what I find out.

[raha_ang]

Hey Guys,

I think im also having this issue on my car.

Its not running anywhere near as good as it used to and when I release the throttle and roll I hear like an air escaping/rattling noise. Very hard to explain.

Told Audi it sounded like an exhaust leak and they apparently tightened something that was lose. Issue persisted.

Now they are telling me the noise is normal and there is nothing wrong with the car.

I mentioned this thread to them and they said its not an issue on my car and only happens on older models and 1.8L engines.

Any ideas?

[heffer]

Just an update for everyone. I ended up taking my car to the VW dealer here (we don't have an Audi dealer). They replaced the wastegate actuator with a brand new "improved" part. The worst part of this update, I still get the P0299. I don't know what to do. Anyone have any other ideas. Replaced the n75 valve, put a GFB on. What next? I'm not sure replacing the turbo would do the trick... I still boost.

[van462]

The actuator connects to an arm that the Watergate is attached to. Where the arm goes thru the turbo housing can become worn. Even a new actuator may not make up for this. Does the actuator rod have any play as described in the first post? That's another reason cutting the actuator rod may be a better fix than an actuator replacement. This is all a stop gap measure to prevent a turbo replacement.

[van462]

Edit. The VW guys likely just installed a clip on the end of the actuator arm as on the GTI is was causing a similar rattle. This won't do anything to fix an out of spec actuator

[heffer]

They have a tech that worked for Audi for 9 years, and they definitely replaced the wastegate. They claim it's not the the wastegate but they don't know what it is. I can rattle the arm, but it just seems like it rattles the clip area to me. It doesn't move from front to back.. You may be right, it might just need tightened but I'm not throwing another 500 bucks at it. I'm just depressed cause I've only had the car since December.

[Alex1188]

They have a tech that worked for Audi for 9 years, and they definitely replaced the wastegate. They claim it's not the the wastegate but they don't know what it is. I can rattle the arm, but it just seems like it rattles the clip area to me. It doesn't move from front to back.. You may be right, it might just need tightened but I'm not throwing another 500 bucks at it. I'm just depressed cause I've only had the car since December.

Like Van said, there should be no rattling at all, should be really tight and hard to move, the wastegate actuator is suppose to provide a preload on the actual wastegate. More than likely the rivet inside the exhaust manifold has become loose and there is more than likely play in the actual shaft that goes through the exhaust manifold. Trust me i was in the SAME boat as you are, car still would boost, just not reach full boost, for the longest time i though it was due to the change in elevation seeing how i moved from NC to CO, but after messing with Forges Wastegate actuator and cutting the OEM one, i soon realize that the OEM one was not providing enough pre-load on the wastegate and causing the wastegate to open to soon.

Look at it this way once that wastegate is allowed to open up, the only thing that can shut it is the spring inside the actuator. The ECU thinks the wastegate is set were it should be, so when the ECU allows the car to build boost to desired amount, and opens the wastegate up to bleed off excess but problem is that boost is actually behind were it should be,then its to late because its already open to far and exhaust gases are flowing through, not allowing the actuator to retract to were it actually should be.

If you modify the stock actuator, you can make up the high end difference, but with sacrifice to the low end boost controll. Pretty much with out replacing the whole turbo, your at a lose lose situation. Save your pennies and upgrade to K04 or replace with the stock IHI K03...

[heffer]

Like Van said, there should be no rattling at all, should be really tight and hard to move, the wastegate actuator is suppose to provide a preload on the actual wastegate. More than likely the rivet inside the exhaust manifold has become loose and there is more than likely play in the actual shaft that goes through the exhaust manifold. Trust me i was in the SAME boat as you are, car still would boost, just not reach full boost, for the longest time i though it was due to the change in elevation seeing how i moved from NC to CO, but after messing with Forges Wastegate actuator and cutting the OEM one, i soon realize that the OEM one was not providing enough pre-load on the wastegate and causing the wastegate to open to soon.

Look at it this way once that wastegate is allowed to open up, the only thing that can shut it is the spring inside the actuator. The ECU thinks the wastegate is set were it should be, so when the ECU allows the car to build boost to desired amount, and opens the wastegate up to bleed off excess but problem is that boost is actually behind were it should be,then its to late because its already open to far and exhaust gases are flowing through, not allowing the actuator to retract to were it actually should be.

If you modify the stock actuator, you can make up the high end difference, but with sacrifice to the low end boost controll. Pretty much with out replacing the whole turbo, your at a lose lose situation. Save your pennies and upgrade to K04 or replace with the stock IHI K03...

Good point Alex. Well K04 is out of the question. How many of you guys would trust/do a rebuilt k03? http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/20autujh5.html

[Alex1188]

Good point Alex. Well K04 is out of the question. How many of you guys would trust/do a rebuilt k03? http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/20autujh5.html

I wouldnt, reasoning is, why are you replacing it in the first place, because more than likely the OEM parts already failed. Places like that you listed, more than likely are just "Repairing the OEM defects. As were if i was you, and wanted to replace it with another K03, i would go to Audi/VW and ask them what the newest revision part number is for the whole turbo, and go from there. Give ECS tuning a call and see if they have it, more than likely they do. Thats the route i would go... No need to replace a turbo and then have to replace it later on down the line because all you did was throw on a repaired turbo...

[chavez885]

So no real fix out there for waste gate issues Alex?

Just got the car back from rings/pistons for oil consumption (out of warranty fix FTW) and the tech found the waste gate loose.

Not looking to spend 2000$ on a new turbo install. Any waste gates worth the money? Car is 100% stock engine wise, zero tuning.

Thanks for the replies, informative thread.

[Alex1188]

So no real fix out there for waste gate issues Alex?

Just got the car back from rings/pistons for oil consumption (out of warranty fix FTW) and the tech found the waste gate loose.

Not looking to spend 2000$ on a new turbo install. Any waste gates worth the money? Car is 100% stock engine wise, zero tuning.

Thanks for the replies, informative thread.


If your planning on staying stock, with no tuning the forge waste gate actuator will work with the green spring inside the actuator. Other wise no real fix, the modified actuator will work, but still will throw some tuning values out of wack...

[chavez885]

If your planning on staying stock, with no tuning the forge waste gate actuator will work with the green spring inside the actuator. Other wise no real fix, the modified actuator will work, but still will throw some tuning values out of wack...

Thanks a lot Alex, you're the man. I'll grab a forge and keep my baby...Can you send me the site you purchased from? Appreciate it very much.

[Alex1188]

Thanks a lot Alex, you're the man. I'll grab a forge and keep my baby...Can you send me the site you purchased from? Appreciate it very much.

Youll need the actuator and a 53MM turnbuckle...

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0001&product=FMACVAG08

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/images/products/FMACVAG08.jpg

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0019&product=FMTBU4

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/images/products/FMTBU4.jpg

[a2 4.0t]

I'm pretty sure that my waste gate flapper is on its way out as well, I occasionally hear a rattling sound during low rpm cruising especially when going uphill. Also, during cold-starts if I put the car in drive or reverse before the RPMs dip there is a very audible rattling sound. I haven't thrown any codes but, I was planning on taking it in to the dealer since I'm still under warranty.

My dealer seems pretty mod friendly but, I'm wondering if they would give me any issues for having an exhaust system(stock cat with an AWE DP & APR DP back exhaust)? The waste gate flapper seems to be a somewhat common problem unrelated to the exhaust but, I'm wondering if it is likely that they would give me an issue for having an exhaust or if I should remove my exhaust before going in?

[Slick_B8]

I'm pretty sure that my waste gate flapper is on its way out as well, I occasionally hear a rattling sound during low rpm cruising especially when going uphill. Also, during cold-starts if I put the car in drive or reverse before the RPMs dip there is a very audible rattling sound. I haven't thrown any codes but, I was planning on taking it in to the dealer since I'm still under warranty.

My dealer seems pretty mod friendly but, I'm wondering if they would give me any issues for having an exhaust system(stock cat with an AWE DP & APR DP back exhaust)? The waste gate flapper seems to be a somewhat common problem unrelated to the exhaust but, I'm wondering if it is likely that they would give me an issue for having an exhaust or if I should remove my exhaust before going in?
Dealer wont do anything unless it throws a code. Wtf. I can even hear the rattling from inside the cab, they can hear it(dealer) and they still wont do anything to fix unless it throws a code. What should i do? My car is an 09 aswell and at 92k miles with 100k warranty

[BlackTaloN]

Got a warranty extension letter for the turbo in the mail yesterday. 7 years or 70k.

My 09 avant threw a MIL at about 69600 with p0299. I thought it was just my damn n80 valve. After receiving the letter i hooked up my bluetooth reader to check what codes were on the car. The p0299 and p0456 (evap small leak) were both there. Car was at 69980mi and I had to drive 30mi. Called up my trusty SA at audi in Arlington and got voicemail at 4:30 pm (Friday).

Came back home and at 70009 mi hooked up the w. Pulled the full log and saved it. Drove into Audi Arlington this morning at 70050mi and the report showing the fault starting at 69600 and nine logs since then.

Service manager copied all my info put me into the computer and I have an appointment on Monday.

Hope everyone gets reimbursed for their turbos.

Blacktalon

[Booya]

Dealer wont do anything unless it throws a code. Wtf. I can even hear the rattling from inside the cab, they can hear it(dealer) and they still wont do anything to fix unless it throws a code. What should i do? My car is an 09 aswell and at 92k miles with 100k warranty

This what I did to get my code on when my warranty was about up. Do it at your own risk tho. Drive it hard on 1st and 2nd gear. If you have an AT switch to manual mode and run 1st gear near redline before shifting. Do this for a couple days and it will make the flap looser and the under boost code will pop up. I did this for about a week and end up f**ing up my intake manny and got the under boost as well. two bird with one stone lol.

[chavez885]

Got a warranty extension letter for the turbo in the mail yesterday. 7 years or 70k.

My 09 avant threw a MIL at about 69600 with p0299. I thought it was just my damn n80 valve. After receiving the letter i hooked up my bluetooth reader to check what codes were on the car. The p0299 and p0456 (evap small leak) were both there. Car was at 69980mi and I had to drive 30mi. Called up my trusty SA at audi in Arlington and got voicemail at 4:30 pm (Friday).

Came back home and at 70009 mi hooked up the w. Pulled the full log and saved it. Drove into Audi Arlington this morning at 70050mi and the report showing the fault starting at 69600 and nine logs since then.

Service manager copied all my info put me into the computer and I have an appointment on Monday.

Hope everyone gets reimbursed for their turbos.

Blacktalon

Sucks, I got the letter in the mail but I was at 73K ;) - bastards.

[UmIsThisThingOn]

Got a warranty extension letter for the turbo in the mail yesterday. 7 years or 70k.

Well that sucks, cause mine happened at 85,191 miles. $2,400 to replace the Turbo at the Stealership. On top of the Crankcase Pressure Valve & Front Crank Oil Seal/ECU Update to handle the increased crankcase pressure for $650. Oh and my Battery is dying too - $300 (prorated due to 5 yr warranty).

I'm looking at the ECSTuning.com options and all they have it a rebuilt unit for $1152.71. I'm going to hunt around a little more to see if I can find a better price.

[chavez885]

Why not just have a shop replace the wastegate? Unless you have other issues...

[garybusey]

I checked the wastegate rod to see if it was moving, and it was moving at all, can the turbo still be the problem? I still have the code (p0299), but i recently did get a dv spacer from hong kong installed (im not joking), how likely is it that the dv spacer or the dv is the culprit?

[ryank382]

Hey guys i gotta revive this thread. so i got the P0299 code on my car and my mechanic saw that the wastegate rod was loose. he actually made me pull it back and forth to show me how it was loose. Now i dont know my way around an engine to the extent that you have showed so i need some help and reassurance in understanding exactly whats going on in this DIY. It seems like we both had the same issue so in simple terms what exactly are you doing to fix the problem? is it specifically the connection between the rod and flap that is loose? and does the turbo need to be pulled out for this. i think i read the thread over 10x but im having difficulty understanding. If this is really a simple doable job that my mechanic or shop can do then im just going to go this route because they originally suggested a new turbo and i do not want to spend that much money

edit: am i correct in thinking that if the problem is with where the rod attached to the link plate then that can be fixed but if the flap is loose on the inside of the turbo im screwed?

[Alex1188]

Hey guys i gotta revive this thread. so i got the P0299 code on my car and my mechanic saw that the wastegate rod was loose. he actually made me pull it back and forth to show me how it was loose. Now i dont know my way around an engine to the extent that you have showed so i need some help and reassurance in understanding exactly whats going on in this DIY. It seems like we both had the same issue so in simple terms what exactly are you doing to fix the problem? is it specifically the connection between the rod and flap that is loose? and does the turbo need to be pulled out for this. i think i read the thread over 10x but im having difficulty understanding. If this is really a simple doable job that my mechanic or shop can do then im just going to go this route because they originally suggested a new turbo and i do not want to spend that much money

edit: am i correct in thinking that if the problem is with where the rod attached to the link plate then that can be fixed but if the flap is loose on the inside of the turbo im screwed?

In all honesty, doing this "Fix" is only a band-aid for the ultimate underlying issue. You maybe able to add a union joint to the rod and tighten up the slack causing the issue. But what will happen over time is were the rod actually connects on the out side of the turbo to the flapper door, will oval out and cause this issue again. Its a design flaw that audi addressed and sent out a warrentie extension letter to first and second owners of the cars. The metal they used on the flapper door and bushing did not meet the right specs causing this issue.

My advice to you, is a replace your turbo with the updated OEM turbo, either out of pocket or see if an Audi dealer will help you out as your car is still fairly new and no mods, or just upgrade your turbo to a K04 with apr software.

If you cannot preform this band-aid fix on your own, its not really worth paying a shop to do it, you'll spend just about as much money having the shop do this fix as it would cost to just replace your turbo.

[van462]

I wrote the write-up and completely concur with what Alex has written. Its been about a year and half on this fix and I am seeing no additional wear. Granted if the bushing wears enough the flapper may have a hard time seating and providing a complete seal for the waste gate. I often reference this thread to others to hopefully prevent them from spending money on useless parts like a DV and N75 valve and identify the real culprit of the P0299.

[ryank382]

In all honesty, doing this "Fix" is only a band-aid for the ultimate underlying issue. You maybe able to add a union joint to the rod and tighten up the slack causing the issue. But what will happen over time is were the rod actually connects on the out side of the turbo to the flapper door, will oval out and cause this issue again. Its a design flaw that audi addressed and sent out a warrentie extension letter to first and second owners of the cars. The metal they used on the flapper door and bushing did not meet the right specs causing this issue.

My advice to you, is a replace your turbo with the updated OEM turbo, either out of pocket or see if an Audi dealer will help you out as your car is still fairly new and no mods, or just upgrade your turbo to a K04 with apr software.

If you cannot preform this band-aid fix on your own, its not really worth paying a shop to do it, you'll spend just about as much money having the shop do this fix as it would cost to just replace your turbo.
The problem is I have a TD1. I shouldn't but that's a whole other story. Why do u say that it's not worth paying a shop to do it? A new turbo alone is 1300$ plus 5.5 hours of labor. Thanks for quick reply


I wrote the write-up and completely concur with what Alex has written. Its been about a year and half on this fix and I am seeing no additional wear. Granted if the bushing wears enough the flapper may have a hard time seating and providing a complete seal for the waste gate. I often reference this thread to others to hopefully prevent them from spending money on useless parts like a DV and N75 valve and identify the real culprit of the P0299.

I'm confused you said you concur with alex but that this fix has lasted 1.5 years. I apologize if I'm not understanding correctly. Thanks for the response

[Alex1188]

The problem is I have a TD1. I shouldn't but that's a whole other story. Why do u say that it's not worth paying a shop to do it? A new turbo alone is 1300$ plus 5.5 hours of labor. Thanks for quick reply



I'm confused you said you concur with alex but that this fix has lasted 1.5 years. I apologize if I'm not understanding correctly. Thanks for the response

The reason is, yes his has held up, but i had done the same fix around the same time, and if i still had my old turbo i would show you what happens over time...its just a band-aid and will slowly wear out again, its only a matter of time before Van will have to fix it again. The arm that the rod connects to will oval out causing a p0299 code again, or the bushing that the flapper door is on will oval out as well causing an exhaust leak and the flapper door will not align correctly with the wastegate hole causing a leak.

Think of it this way....

1: If you do the fix YOUR SELF, you will have a band-aid on your turbo that COULD last anywere from 6months,(like mine) - 2ish years(like Vans) that would only cost you about 2$

2: If you pay a shop to put a band-aid on your turbo, your paying 5.5 hours of labor like you said, maybe more... costing you like 500$+

3:Buy the updated OEM turbo and have a full proof solution that you will never have to mess with ever again...2000$

Just depends on how deep your pockets are or how willing/knowledgeable your are to tackle the project your self. Hope this helps...

[ryank382]

The reason is, yes his has held up, but i had done the same fix around the same time, and if i still had my old turbo i would show you what happens over time...its just a band-aid and will slowly wear out again, its only a matter of time before Van will have to fix it again. The arm that the rod connects to will oval out causing a p0299 code again, or the bushing that the flapper door is on will oval out as well causing an exhaust leak and the flapper door will not align correctly with the wastegate hole causing a leak.

Think of it this way....

1: If you do the fix YOUR SELF, you will have a band-aid on your turbo that COULD last anywere from 6months,(like mine) - 2ish years(like Vans) that would only cost you about 2$

2: If you pay a shop to put a band-aid on your turbo, your paying 5.5 hours of labor like you said, maybe more... costing you like 500$+

3:Buy the updated OEM turbo and have a full proof solution that you will never have to mess with ever again...2000$

Just depends on how deep your pockets are or how willing/knowledgeable your are to tackle the project your self. Hope this helps...

That helps a lot thank you so much for clarifying! Much appreciated man

[hecren1]

I was hit by a drunk driver a couple months ago on the front driver side and wheel. the suspension and steering knuckle were replaced. finally picked up the car last Friday and it had the check engine light on. the body shop said it was probably a steering sensor that needed to be reset because an alignment was done, and they cleared the error. The first thing I noticed was that rattling while costing that you guys describe, then the check engine light came back on and It turned out to be a P0299 error. would an accident cause the wastegate actuator to come loose? or would this be completely unrelated. it didn't have the rattle before the accident.

[Alex1188]

I was hit by a drunk driver a couple months ago on the front driver side and wheel. the suspension and steering knuckle were replaced. finally picked up the car last Friday and it had the check engine light on. the body shop said it was probably a steering sensor that needed to be reset because an alignment was done, and they cleared the error. The first thing I noticed was that rattling while costing that you guys describe, then the check engine light came back on and It turned out to be a P0299 error. would an accident cause the wastegate actuator to come loose? or would this be completely unrelated. it didn't have the rattle before the accident.

Yes, anything is possible, especially being hit from the front, doesnt take much to bend stuff. i got rear ended a couple years back and it was hard enough to cause a leaking oil line to the turbo.

[van462]

Your case would warrant a boost leak check to verify the intercooler didn't crack or any other air leaks. Also verify the belly pans are secure as well. They can cause a similar rattle. You can check to see if the rod is loose on the turbo in the first thread.

[hecren1]

Yes, anything is possible, especially being hit from the front, doesnt take much to bend stuff. i got rear ended a couple years back and it was hard enough to cause a leaking oil line to the turbo.

how did you go about telling the insurance and did they give you a hard time, trying to say that it wasn't because of the accident?

[hecren1]

Your case would warrant a boost leak check to verify the intercooler didn't crack or any other air leaks. Also verify the belly pans are secure as well. They can cause a similar rattle. You can check to see if the rod is loose on the turbo in the first thread. I checked it and it moves not even a mm and springs back.

[van462]

Also on the driver front corner is the sound box which is plastic and receives boost pressure. I suspect you have a boost leak between the turbo outlet and the throttle body.

[hecren1]

Interesting, that's around where the impact was. The bumper and the headlight were fine but the windshield wiper fluid reservoir and the fender were replaced as well. And like you said, I need a boost leak check. I'm going to that body shop first thing tomorrow to have it done.

[Alex1188]

how did you go about telling the insurance and did they give you a hard time, trying to say that it wasn't because of the accident?

The insurance company wasnt the hard part, it was the shop doing the repair weird enough, the shop said it wasnt from the accident. I just played the whole, they are suppose to repair the car to the condition it was before the accident. i stated there was no oil before and now there is after. told my insurance the same thing, and they said go ahead and do the repairs.

[hecren1]

I should do the same. but the body shop should know that it wasn't there before the accident. they had the car sitting for two months and as soon as it drives the check engine light comes on

[knightmare]

Hurray, I can post!

First, amazing thread man, nice job, life saver.....much appreciated.

Now, I went ahead with this fix....let me add a couple things I noticed, and then I have a MAJOR problem to discuss:

-You don't need crazy extensions and adapters and stuff to get the cat off the turbo, that hidden bolt can be reached with a single extension, like 10"+, lean of the top of the engine, hands by the firewall, bam, easy.

-If that is ANY play in the wastegate actuator rod, you have a problem. Mine moved basically up and down...I thought maybe the rod was just wiggling where it connected to the wastegate arm, and it wasn't the wastegate itself.....but once I looked inside the turbo, it was clear there was a major gap, it was not sealed tightly at all....after this fix, I was able to get it seated tight. There is a small knob on the wastegate door, and the door will spin until it hits this knob.....if the door is seated properly, the door is difficult to spin.

-when you thread the shaft of the wategate actuator, make DAMN SURE you have a bench vice to hold the shaft. Cut the end of the shafts to look like a nail before you try to thread it. (never did this before, so good to have this info before proceeding) You don't need to remove much of the shaft at ALL, probably not even 1/4", as threading the shaft itself will probably shorten it enough for this fix. FYI....I took too much off and had to add to it, using two threaded unions or whatever they are called....which meant more cutting and adjusting and complication and time consuming.



FINALLY, I got it to the right length, I got it all back together including replacing the N75 I broke during testing. (stupid freaking plastic hose tips, CRAP design there....go to remove a hose and SNAP!) And the DV was replaced first thing, before I realized I had this issue instead.

Well, I started the car last night, expecting perfection, instead I heard a loud clicking type sound? Small amount of smoke around cat/manifold, then I killed the engine fearing something horrible had happened. I hope I didn't destroy anything. I can't possibly imagine what would've caused this issue....such a simple fix performed, no major surgery. Maybe the clicking is the usual sound of the engine and I'm still not used to it? (JUST bought the car) Maybe the smoke was burn off from oil from this fix? (that silver crank case breather hose?) Wishful thinking really, it does seem like something is wrong, and I don' want to break the car beyond repair, so I didn't dare leave it running or hit the gas to rev it or drive it. Just not sure at this point, so going to take it apart tonight to inspect again before inflicting further damage.

One thought I had.....when I threaded the shaft on the wastegate actuator side, I didn't have a good vice, and the shaft spun and I heard noises like the spring was twisting inside or whatever so I stopped. But maybe this caused damage? Maybe the diaphram inside is now broken and the actuator doesn't work anymore, so the wastegate is stuck closed? Would this cause the issues I described? I can't imagine the boost getting high enough to overboost and make noises and smoke sitting at idle for 15 seconds.

Thoughts guys?

I plan to put a compressor on the wastegate actuator tonight, and inspect the door with the cat off again. I don't have a compressor so I didn't test before starting the car, borrowing my brothers tonight. If I see any issues with it I plan to get the forge part. If it works like it should, I am totally lost as to what the cause could be. I will make a video the next time I start the car tho no matter what.

If anyone has any other ideas or what I should check, I would really appreciate some info! Thanks!

[van462]

There shouldn't be much that can be damaged doing this. The turbo wastegate normally fully closed; and at idle it doesn't produce enough pressure to override the 4 psi needed to crack itself open. If the wastegate shaft spun it may (merely a guess) have caused damage to the to the air diaphragm inside. That would result in the wastegate not opening, going into overboost and the ECU stepping in and going into limp mode. Any possibilities of something being dropped into the cat and the exhaust it bouncing it around the cat cell? Air actuating the wastegate will answer if the shaft turning may have caused damage. I'll add that precaution to the first thread. If you used any wd40 or penetrating oil on the cat bolts that is the likely cause of the smoke.

[knightmare]

Thanks Van.

So, I pressurized the actuator tonight with my brothers compressor as you advised in your guide, worked perfectly fine. Took off the CAT again, checked the turbo, door is fine, turbo blade spins free, no nuts or bolts in there.

Started the car again, same, loud clicking sound, more smoke...... had the GF give it gas, accelerated the smoke. Killed the engine, ran for maybe 20 seconds tops....thought I had the video set but must have messed it up. The smoke seems to be from heat, more than from burn off based on smell and how quick it occurs. I did use liberal amounts of PB on the 4 cat bolts tho, but that was almost a week ago now, everything looks dry. She said the check engine light was on (prob from P0299 before) and also the oil indicator lamp.

Could anything have caused the engine to starve for oil? (smoke starts REALLY FAST)

Hope my engine didn't get damaged like mad from starting it...twice now. :(

[knightmare]

Also, what is the crankcase breather hose all about? There was a tiny bit of oil in that line when I removed it, is that normal? Also, could that have been over-crushed and cause this? (I moved it out of the way, but maybe I moved it with too much force?)

[knightmare]

The more I think about it, the more I am thinking (hopeful thinking) maybe it is just PB blaster I forgot about using that is burning off the exhaust...it looks dry, but I'm sure there is still some there.....exhausts DO heat up fast too, so that all makes sense.

The sound worries me tho, as does the oil light.....plus there seems to be strange sounds after I kill the engine, but I could just be not used to them, and it's in the garage so it's louder?


Going to go start it again now and make a video for you all to take guesses at. lol

The car was LIKE NEW before I did this mod, the only issue was it was stupid slow until about 3k RPM, and the P0299 code, and the card in bike spokes noise.....so it has to be related to the mod/repairs I did. (repairs include replacing the N75 I broke and the diverter valve)

[Fburg A4]

Oil light came on too? That's not good. Can't wait to hear the video

[van462]

Oil in the crankcase breather hose is normal. These cars have 2 paths for the crankcase gas to flow. The most desired way is into the intake manifold to be burnt. This works fine (except for creating carbon on the intake valves) when the engine is in vacuum. Once boost pressure rises there are check valves in the PCV that prevent the boost from going into the engine block. It then routes the crankcase gases to preturbo, as this area is always in vacuum. This does lead to oil residue in the intake path and if you pull your hose from the turbo to the intercooler you may even find puddled oil from all the vapor.

Most importantly I hope the oil pressure light when out while the car was running and only on because the car was turned off and the ignition on?
Low oil pressure is a very bad thing and valve lifters may be clicking from not pressurizing if the oil pressure light is on while it is running.

The injectors do click loudly as well as the N80 valve and a few other components. Being inside with the hood open may be making these sounds more evident.
PB blaster will usually smoke off within a few minutes of running. May get a little more smell on the first few hard pulls when the turbo starts to glow.

Edit. Also worth checking the oil pressure sensor located just below the oil filter is secure.

[knightmare]

Van, can't thank you enough, that reminder mentioning WD40....totally didn't think about the PB blaster I used, that gave me the courage to let the car run, no more smoke! :)

Oil level says it's fine, no more oil light.

What DID give me a heart attack was when my girl who backed it out of the garage said the car wouldn't turn off! I RAN over to get a screw driver to disconnect the battery (woulda just ran on the alternator anyway right? lol) Then I figured it out...she didn't put it in park.....total blond. UG



OK, so last issue remaining, major noise! Was NOT there before.....here is a link to the vid on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksRW8R0J3MY

Don't worry, I'm not the rick-rolling type.

*Sorry for the orientation!*


Maybe my arms squished something or who knows what near the firewall when I reached down to remove the CAT bolts?

[STA4]

Van, can't thank you enough, that reminder mentioning WD40....totally didn't think about the PB blaster I used, that gave me the courage to let the car run, no more smoke! :)

Oil level says it's fine, no more oil light.

What DID give me a heart attack was when my girl who backed it out of the garage said the car wouldn't turn off! I RAN over to get a screw driver to disconnect the battery (woulda just ran on the alternator anyway right? lol) Then I figured it out...she didn't put it in park.....total blond. UG



OK, so last issue remaining, major noise! Was NOT there before.....here is a link to the vid on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksRW8R0J3MY

Don't worry, I'm not the rick-rolling type.

*Sorry for the orientation!*


Maybe my arms squished something or who knows what near the firewall when I reached down to remove the CAT bolts?

Sounds normal to me.

Here's what mine sounds like:

https://vimeo.com/130546627

[knightmare]

WOW! Thanks STA4, even got the engine cut off noises! Badass.

Did you just take that? Just for me? :)

[STA4]

WOW! Thanks STA4, even got the engine cut off noises! Badass.

Did you just take that? Just for me? :)

I did indeed...just for you. <3

[knightmare]

I did indeed...just for you. <3

LMFAO, rock on my friend.

Going to pick it up on lunch, so excited!

[boomtime]

Sounds normal to me.

Here's what mine sounds like:



Must be a B8 noise mine isnt that clickety / clackety

[knightmare]

Just drove it back to work from lunch, pushed it hard, everything seemed perfect! :) Temps were good, no strange noises or anything else.

Thanks for your help everyone, much appreciated. Hopefully this will help others as well.


I will be getting the engine light cleared at auto zone tonight after work on the way home and will update if it ever comes back. I'll also have them check for any new codes but I'm sure I'm safe.

[Lambda13]

Does anyone have a sound clip of the noise the wastegate makes when it's starting to fail? I had a little bit of wiggle on mine and am now concerned. Also out of warranty...

[knightmare]

Does anyone have a sound clip of the noise the wastegate makes when it's starting to fail? I had a little bit of wiggle on mine and am now concerned. Also out of warranty...

As stated previously, imagine a baseball card in bike spokes, it's like that.

I noticed it especially at around 20-30 MPH, maybe when lifting off the throttle......try to do that in a parking garage or while passing a wall closely or cars parked on the street that will reflect the sound back so you can hear it....have your windows down, make sure it's quiet around you, it's a faint sound.

[drunkandslurred]

How the hell do you get the last bolt off the cat to turbo flange? I can't see an easy way to get to it, hell i can't even see it at all, can barely touch it.

[van462]

Easiest way is with about a 10 inch extension. That puts the ratchet in an area where there is room to actually get some movement. Enough room to even use a breaker bar.

[drunkandslurred]

Thanks Van,

I actually did just that. My car is an 09 from the north so all my bolts have been a bitch. I'm currently at the step where you have to remove the 2 nuts on the exhaust coupling. They are rusted to hell and nothing will grip it so I just cut them off and will head to an auto parts store to get new couplings at the end. Lunch break and will get back to it. Great write up!

[van462]

I should add a note to have spare hardware for the coupler before starting. Mine snapped in half during removal, actually made it easier than fighting thru the rust.

EDIT. Added, I believe they are M8x25 or 1/4"x20tpi x 1"

[Militant-Grunt]

3:Buy the updated OEM turbo and have a full proof solution that you will never have to mess with ever again...2000$

Just depends on how deep your pockets are or how willing/knowledgeable your are to tackle the project your self. Hope this helps...

I don't believe the new turbos are updated, seeing that every time I replace one I have to install a clip on the wastegate rod pivot. But at least once you have the clip, that seems to hold them together. I would just use the p0299 as a means to upgrade to a k04. At least those are not made by IHI.

[STA4]

I don't believe the new turbos are updated, seeing that every time I replace one I have to install a clip on the wastegate rod pivot. But at least once you have the clip, that seems to hold them together. I would just use the p0299 as a means to upgrade to a k04. At least those are not made by IHI.

Would installing this clip be a good preventative measure?

[knightmare]

Thanks Van,

I actually did just that. My car is an 09 from the north so all my bolts have been a bitch. I'm currently at the step where you have to remove the 2 nuts on the exhaust coupling. They are rusted to hell and nothing will grip it so I just cut them off and will head to an auto parts store to get new couplings at the end. Lunch break and will get back to it. Great write up!

I got an 09 from NY as well, mine weren't bad at all rust wise, but I hit them with PB blaster like a mofo for a good 24 hours before attempting and used a breaker bar on them....no probs.

[AudiSportB5S4]

What do most people log in VCDS when testing this? Wastegate duty and actual vs specified boost?

Also - would you say that a starting point if you don't have the wastegate chatter @ low rpm cruising (is there a good way to really stress this situation?) is to replace with the DV from ECS (http://www.ecstuning.com/ES259456/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw_rytBRDVhZeQrbzn_q0BEiQAjnbSHMd6-0L2vvQWsad66D01X9cRxw9EQdp-OCJ0hhSNPVcaAikM8P8HAQ)?

[knightmare]

That was my thinking, I was hoping it would be a cheap easy part, I figured my car had the old design because I have a 2009, so that must be the issue....then I replaced the part and realized I already had the updated design. [headbang]

[AudiSportB5S4]

That was my thinking, I was hoping it would be a cheap easy part, I figured my car had the old design because I have a 2009, so that must be the issue....then I replaced the part and realized I already had the updated design. [headbang]

Lol that's terrible. Do you happen to know the old p/n? I can get under there and see whats in there currently before buying I guess.

[knightmare]

I don't know, I didn't have the old part/part number.....if yours doesn't match what the newest revision is, then replace it. (I think the newest revision is "D")

[AudiSportB5S4]

I don't know, I didn't have the old part/part number.....if yours doesn't match what the newest revision is, then replace it. (I think the newest revision is "D")

That's a damn good call. Haha. Thanks!

[AudiSportB5S4]

So I got my hands on my friend's car tonight who has the Boost Regulation Valve code..

I drove it around with the windows down and kept it in chicktronic :) to keep RPM low under some throttle to listen for wastegate chatter - didn't hear that. Then, got it on the highway and kept it in third gear while giving it enough throttle to prevent kickdown but still do a linear pull and I felt multiple hesitations during the pull. From my experience with turbo'd cars (my B5) I am pretty comfortable trying the diverter valve now. I would love to check for a boost leak similarly to the way I can on my 2.7. Is there an easy way to pressure test these intake systems?

Here's the boost ramp up graph. Wish it showed the pull-backs I felt (which were very obvious) but VCDS logging just isn't the best.

http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/pp352/AudiSportB5S4/ECUx%20Logs/Danielle_BoostRamp_zpstfhpk6d7.jpg (http://s427.photobucket.com/user/AudiSportB5S4/media/ECUx%20Logs/Danielle_BoostRamp_zpstfhpk6d7.jpg.html)

From other's experience with this code, do those hesitations in the pull tell you something? To me that is a pretty obvious situation where the engine is fighting specified vs actual and points more towards this valve/boost leak.

[van462]

I think if you had mapped wastegate duty cycle with the actual and requested boost you would see the ECU opening the wastegate at 3660 RPM. 2000 hpa equals 29 PSI absolute or 14.3 psi gauge pressure. That is about where a stock turbo will operate at. The slow response between the commanded to actual looks like the turbo is slow to spool which can be a wastegate or boost leak. Have you tried the test in post 1 to see if the wastegate rod has play. Requires no disassembly or money to check. If it has play you have a problem.

There are a few ways to do boost leak checks, I usually like to isolate the system some. I disconnect the charge pipe from the intake manifold. You will find a spray can fits here nicely. I remove the turbo inlet hose. I took a pvc pipe cap and drilled a hole in the end and screwed in and jb weld an air fitting. I wrap the outside of the pvc cap with tape until i get a snug fit into the turbo inlet. You want it fit below the port that the crankcase breather pipes in. pressurize to 15 psi and see if it holds pressure and do soap testing.
To rule out a leak thru the crankcase breather where it meets the intake manifold. Remove the hose from the intake manifold to the breather. Put a zip lock bag over the intake manifold nipple and overwrap it with tape. I like electrical as you can get some stretch on to keep tension. The intake manifold is hard to check as a intake valve will always be open. Plus its no use the ECU does an excellent job in identify intake leaks in the manifold since it can close off the throttle plate and it knows how much should air should get by.

The piston style DV is a vast improvement over the diaphragm style of old. It can always be removed and visually inspected for cracks. You hear of very few DV failures anymore. Lots get changed out for no reason. If the DV wasn't holding it would look more like no boost generates as the pressure would just recycle from the high pressure side to the low pressure side of the compressor. The new style really can't have a small leak unless the piston chips off

[AudiSportB5S4]

Appreciate the response. I just looked at that again.. Okay, so, I can remove the airbox and get maybe needle nose pliers on the wastegate actuator rod and see if its moving around.. If so, then that's the issue - if not you say N75. Still, you don't think a DV has anything to do with that? It seems you're the resident expert so I am asking that sincerely.

Also - are you saying that that boost pressure is typical for stock programming? Do they normally spool that slow or do you think there is some sort of problem in that ramp up?

I will look into the boost leak checker also. I have one built for my 2.7t, I'll see about getting something together for the 2.0.

Thanks for any additional help!

[van462]

I would think a bad N75 would have different results. It either wouldn't actuate and send air to open the turbo it would overspeed and the ECU will send the car into limp mode. The wastegate by default is closed and can't really even open until after 5 psi build up. so you should see very fast response on the turbo if its sealing off gases. If the N75 were sending air to the wastegate all the time; you would get a quick boost response until the turbo can produce the pressure it needs to open the wastegate, and then it would max out around 5 or 10 psi. The wastegate actuator will go fully open at 5 psi pressure. So I down think it would hit full requested boost like your chart shows. It would be worth doing a visual on lines going to the N75 for cracks or holes.

You don't have to remove the airbox. The rod can be reached by hand thru the exhaust manifold. It has to be done on a cold motor if you use your hands. If its warm, needle nose vicegrips work well. Pulling the airbox makes seeing what going on the first time much easier and its a very easy removal.

Post 28 by Alex has a good chart of turbo response, the actual boost matches the requested boost with just a small delay in time/rpm. Notice how the lines parallel each other.

[bakedziti]

I don't believe the new turbos are updated, seeing that every time I replace one I have to install a clip on the wastegate rod pivot. But at least once you have the clip, that seems to hold them together. I would just use the p0299 as a means to upgrade to a k04. At least those are not made by IHI.

Could you please elaborate on the clip you are referring to? Is it an E Clip? If so, where can I get one? I purchased a used OEM turbo for far less than I could have bought a new one, and off of a car that went K04 at 20K miles. K04 would be my best option, but isn't in the cards currently with the associated goodies that would need to be upgraded. I am swapping my turbo on Saturday morning, so any help before that would be greatly appreciated!

[van462]

There was a tech service bulletin for VW GTI's that had a wastegate rattle issue. VW came out with a clip that went over the pin where the wastegate arm meets the actuator rod. I do not believe the A4 uses this clip. The eclip we have on the rod pin seems pretty secure. I don't know if the GTI uses the exact IHI turbo we do. I believe the intake manifold and wastegate have a different orientation that ours due to it being a transverse mounted motor.
The clip can n no way correct our root issue of the bushing where the wastegate arm goes thru the turbo is wearing. The wear causes play that turns into loss of clamping pressure on the wastegate.

[AudiSportB5S4]

I called my local Audi dealer they said if the turbo has to be replaced it is covered under warranty, if its not the turbo they charge for an hour of diagnostics. I will try to get a hold of that actuator arm to see if its moving. If not, I am going to order the DV valve and look into pressure testing. If it does, well then to Audi it goes!

[AudiSportB5S4]

So I tested the rod tonight and sure enough there is movement. When you say fore and aft, I am able to move it towards me and away from me as I have a handle on it by my fender. It doesn't move back and forwards towards front and rear of car, but side to side. Is this the proper diagnosis for having that code?

[van462]

There is usually enough spring preload to keep it from moving at all. From front to back I had 1/8 to 1/4" movement. You have enough evidence to make it worth sliding the cat back and getting to the wastegate flapper. There you can really see whats going on. Another thread mentions he had success by prying the wastegate actuator bracket back to take up the movement.
I just went and checked my rod play and it has no movement, even flexing it is difficult.

[AudiSportB5S4]

Okay thanks a lot. Yeah, I was able to wiggle it side to side. No forward/backward movement at all. I will keep an eye on it. Mind you this is my personal a4 -my daily. The log I posted above was from my friends car which I will test tomorrow night. She actually has the CEL whereas I have just seen a soft code for it on mine. :)

[SDF1]

What would you log for to show the turbo working properly?

[van462]

I don't have VCDS to have the channel numbers. Actual boost, requested boost, wastegate duty cycle at a minimum. I think the best way to show the issue is with a different sort of pull than most people do. This issue is more pronounced in the lower RPM when the wastegate should be fully closed and trying to keep as much turbine speed as possible. A long hill where you can keep a lower RM around 2300. You could try steady throttle and some small increases to around 3000 rpm. This will bring the requested boost from near nothing to around 5 to 10 psi boost. When requested boost rises actual should rise at near the same rate. By keeping the RPM lower the turbo should be able to satisfy the requirement and see the wastegate operate to keep actual and requested boost at the same number. A failing wastegate will have a hard time meeting the requested boost, have a lazy spool, and may not meet the requested boost. At low RPM there just isn't enough exhaust gas there to the turbo to reach the boost it wants.
When I repaired my wastegate, I noticed I could pull the same hill with less RPM and higher boost numbers. Non tuned cars may not pop the fault code as easily, as by mid throttle the turbo can meet the much lower requested boost and its opening the wastegate A tuned car would still have the wastegate closed and requesting more boost.

[knightmare]

So I tested the rod tonight and sure enough there is movement. When you say fore and aft, I am able to move it towards me and away from me as I have a handle on it by my fender. It doesn't move back and forwards towards front and rear of car, but side to side. Is this the proper diagnosis for having that code?

That is what I found with mine too, so I assumed it wasn't the issue, but once I took the cat off, I was proved wrong. I think the guide should be updated to state "if there is any movement in the rod at all, in any direction"

[van462]

That is what I found with mine too, so I assumed it wasn't the issue, but once I took the cat off, I was proved wrong. I think the guide should be updated to state "if there is any movement in the rod at all, in any direction"

It was covered in later post, but since this thread has gotten rather long I updated the first post. This should help out those first coming across this issue.

[knightmare]

It was covered in later post, but since this thread has gotten rather long I updated the first post. This should help out those first coming across this issue.

Good call, rock on my friend. :)

[knightmare]

How do we get VCDS to show the boost ramp pressure?

Anyone got a quick DIY on that? Can't seem to find the info to compare requested boost to actual boost. :(

[boomtime]

How do we get VCDS to show the boost ramp pressure?

Anyone got a quick DIY on that? Can't seem to find the info to compare requested boost to actual boost. :(


Charge pressure specified value?
and
Charge pressure actual value?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[AudiSportB5S4]

So I got my hands on my friend's car tonight who has the Boost Regulation Valve code..

Here's the boost ramp up graph.

http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/pp352/AudiSportB5S4/ECUx%20Logs/Danielle_BoostRamp_zpstfhpk6d7.jpg (http://s427.photobucket.com/user/AudiSportB5S4/media/ECUx%20Logs/Danielle_BoostRamp_zpstfhpk6d7.jpg.html)


Got the call from Audi that the turbo on my friend's car has been diagnosed as the problem :). Updated turbo going in and all charges covered. This was a great thread!

[Lambda13]

Got the call from Audi that the turbo on my friend's car has been diagnosed as the problem :). Updated turbo going in and all charges covered. This was a great thread!

Must be nice to still be under the warranty...[:(]

[Militant-Grunt]

Would installing this clip be a good preventative measure?

Ive installed them during Piston ring jobs as a customer pay preventative measure. If I notice that they don't have the clip and the rod doesn't move, I generally try to upsell the clip.

[Militant-Grunt]

Got the call from Audi that the turbo on my friend's car has been diagnosed as the problem :). Updated turbo going in and all charges covered. This was a great thread!

What year is your car Mike?

[brp]

I have been throwing the P0299 code lately and seem to have the noise and a bit of play in my actuator. Can anyone confirm this noise after letting off the throttle at ~2500 RPM?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E57iGPB0fzg&feature=youtu.be

Just confirmed with AoA chat that I am covered for this, and the oil consumption. It seems that right after 50k miles, both issues have manifested.

[Spm58]

So here's a question. I have a turbo under boost soft code and when I push my car for a little while it throws a CEL. I've checked the hoses( I have the silicone hoses) and I put hose clamps on all of them. I checked my dv ring and it's fine. I even checked the turbo outlet ring(put in turbo muffler delete) and that o ring is fine. I can't feel any play in my wastegate and I hear no ticking noise when coasting like van was having. I'm going to have a smoke test done to it because maybe there is something I missed but does anyone have any other ideas of things to check that could be causing the code? I don't feel a loss of boost either, but maybe I'm just used to it. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[van462]

Spm 58- The DV solenoid may not be fully holding and possible its getting boost leak there. I would do a boost leak check on the hoses and intercooler. I may do a DIY on that as well. The steps I would take next would be to disconnect the hose from the intake manifold going to the PCV. Cover the intake manifold with heavy ziplock bag and wrap in tape or secured with a ziptie or hose clamp. This will eliminate the PCV as a possible boost leak. The crankcase can still vent to atmosphere or preturbo. If the boost lose is still present I'd replace the DV. I wouldn't do a DV first, unless I had massive boost lose and had verified my hoses were secure. Since you have the GFB DV+ verify the o-rings on the original DV and the DV+.

You could always drop the cat back and visually check the wastegate as verify its fully seated.

[AudiSportB5S4]

Must be nice to still be under the warranty...[:(]

Yeah - the 70k 7 year extension is what she was covered under.


What year is your car Mike?

The car that got a new turbo is a 2009. I also have an '09 B8 A4 daily, but I don't have this issue on my own car.

[STA4]

Ive installed them during Piston ring jobs as a customer pay preventative measure. If I notice that they don't have the clip and the rod doesn't move, I generally try to upsell the clip.

Thanks. Can you explain how this clip fixes the issue? How much labor time does your dealership charge? Would it be similar to the steps outlined in this DIY for accessing the flapper? What's the part #?

[SDF1]

Found this.
https://infotomb.com/5fgnq

[STA4]

Found this.
https://infotomb.com/5fgnq

Thanks! [up] That's exactly what I was looking for. Part #06J145220B. I guess that I could install that relatively quickly after I get the HFC off.

[STA4]

As a preventative maintenance measure, I purchased the anti-rattle clip (https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2576399) and had a local shop install it. It cost me 1.6 hrs of labor, but that included replacing my leaking midpipe as well. They had a tech with small hands attach it from the engine bay after the HFC was removed.

The tech said that there was some play in the flapper, so I'm hoping that I caught it in time. No noticeable difference when driving the car, which is a good sign as well.

I figure that it's better to pay $150 now, than $3000 later....

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/741089_x800.jpg

[Sweir1171]

Has anybody used this clip with success? (I got the p0299 code and rattle) I have the clip and I couldn't get it on. I don't want to pay someone labor if it's not worth it. Or any suggestions getting it on without removing the turbo

At the same time I don't have the $ for a new turbo...

Thanks

[van462]

The clip was designed for the GTI, which has its turbo orientated differently than ours. They had issues where exhaust gas pulses under boost were causing a chatter. The clip is there to pin the joint tighter and to add a bit of mass to change its vibration frequency. Possible this vibration may have initially caused much of our bushing wear, but I do not think the clip will do anything to fix a damaged unit

[boomtime]

Audi's cost money to fix and turbos wear out. If the cheap clip does not fix it... Time to man up!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[richardm0025]

Audi's cost money to fix and turbos wear out. If the cheap clip does not fix it... Time to man up!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Shit, that's what I'm doing right now lol. About to install the new one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kt883]

Does anyone have a sound clip of the noise the wastegate makes when it's starting to fail? I had a little bit of wiggle on mine and am now concerned. Also out of warranty...

The way I explain the noise is that its akin to being on a 21 speed bike and pedaling when you suddenly stop pedaling and hold the pedal in place and the chain makes that clicking noise. That's EXACTLY what it sounds like

[Lambda13]

Ya I figured it out and mine is fubar. K04 or other time...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[kt883]

Did anyone ever notice P0420 catalyst efficiency below threshold code in conjunction with P0299? I see that code more than underboost since I now take it easy on car.

I guess I will be able to inspect my cat for damage/restriction when I pull it off but I was reading that leaky wastegate can cause this code. Seems to come on if at steady light throttle of around 2k rpm, especially on cruise control.

I had a stuck injector so I originally suspected cat may have been damaged. Audi won't honour damaged cat under federal emissions warranty since they say turbo is done after doing GFF.

[van462]

A P0420 code is simple a code generated by the difference in readings from the front and rear O2 sensors. Running rich for an extended time can cause cat damage. Sensors not fully tighten down or a bad turbo/cat gasket can also generate it. If you have cat cell failure and the catalyst itself has come loose then then its possible it could cause both a P0420 and P0299. The obstruction post turbo could cause enough exhaust backpressure to effective lower the the pressure difference across the turbine and result in slower spool. The opposite or what a HFC or test pipe does.

[kt883]

is there some sort of log I can do to differentiate between the two? Would boost actual vs requested help? Maybe I have both, because I also have the ticking noise at gear down and sluggish performance.

So Audi wont fix my cat until I fix my turbo, and if I modify the wastegate they will blame the problem on that. [headbang]

[van462]

It's hard to beat a good visual inspection. Remove the pinch clamp from the downpipe to resonator, remove bolt from exhaust to tranmission. Remove 4 nuts securing cat to turbo and slide it back. You should be able to see inside to see if the cat looks like a honeycomb or a smashed honeycomb. Unsure what GFF is, but cats are covered for 8 years I think? If not quite a few of us have the laying around from going HFC or test pipes. I kept mine as I wasn't sure where I would end up living.

[kt883]

Guided Fault Finder - I believe its a software manual that gives them different checks to do to eliminate or confirm a problem.

Once it gets a bit warmer I will tackle this check. Can you remove cat and downpipe from car completely without separating the two? The bolts are seized so ideally I'd like to attempt them with a little extra space.

Laws are different in Canada but I believe limited to 132,000km. It should be covered but they wont fix it since turbo is bad. Its BS bc I believe a stuck injector fouled it and I didn't know about the recall till months after paying to have that fixed at an indy. So now I have no way to prove that the problem existed, nor that I fixed it. The turbo has acted up since about 110k but they didn't announce the recall here till I was way outside of that warranty and I didn't document at dealer since I was way past 80k warranty figured I was on my own.

To boot my led inner tails are on their way out and also not covered. So my car has all the typical problems for the B8's. Just going to try and tackle each one, one by one. With all these issues it still starts up each day for which I am thankful.

Currently I'm noticing car is very stuttery at low RPM and once reved down, there is a jerk around 2krpm as if wastegate opening and releasing boost almost. Tested boost and I'm peaking at 7psi

What size bolts would you suggest for the exhaust downpipe connection? Going to replace them when I tackle this project as they are seized and one is broken. I picked up a can of liquid wrench penetrant as it was tested to be twice as good as PB blaster that I normally use. I want to have everything needed when I do this so I don't have to do it more than once.

Were you guys able to remove e clip with regular needle nose, or do you require bent or longnose? I picked up a case of various E clips at princess auto just in case I lose it.

[mahunik]

For someone looking to go to stage 2 that is stock now what would you recommend to do with the wastegate actuator. Did this adjustment completely fix the problem? Or should I buy one.

Which would require less work, rebuilding or buying new one?

[van462]

Mine is holding up well approx 35k miles later. I wouldn't say it's a complete fix as the bushing the wastegate rotates in is still worn and changes the way it closes due to this. It took me around an hour or two to perform the DIY. It does allow it to function as a near new condition as possible. The only fix for it is a new turbo.

[mahunik]

Mine is holding up well approx 35k miles later. I wouldn't say it's a complete fix as the bushing the wastegate rotates in is still worn and changes the way it closes due to this. It took me around an hour or two to perform the DIY. It does allow it to function as a near new condition as possible. The only fix for it is a new turbo.

That is good to hear then, sounds like the route I will take when I plan on putting a intake on. Is removing the Cat 100% required? seems like a pain in the ass

[boomtime]

That is good to hear then, sounds like the route I will take when I plan on putting a intake on. Is removing the Cat 100% required? seems like a pain in the ass

Its 90% required...

[van462]

Access to the e-clip that secures the actuator rod to the wastegate arm is tricky to get to. I also did actuation test using compressed air(to operate the actuator) to verify it was seating well with the worn bushing. The actuator moves at 5.5 psi. Leaving the cat attached to the downpipe and removing only the 4 nuts on the cat, the downpipe to resonator clamp and transmission bracket is the way to go.

[kt883]

..

[kt883]

Big thanks to Van462 for putting this DIY together. I tackled the job this mother’s day weekend despite not having any friends free to help out. I couldn’t wait and it seemed that every weekend was either raining, I was working or had something else that wouldn’t work so just said screw it and began. This was definitely the biggest job I have ever done with mk4 rad swap being my previous biggest job completed. It was intimidating but this thread and comments were all extremely helpful and encouraging.

I used a 15mm ratcheting flex head wrench for the cat bolts which worked wonders for all three once broken loose (used a TON of liquid wrench and Pb blaster). For the fourth bolt I could not figure out how to get that series of extensions from the bottom of car and was discouraged but I read the rest of the comments and saw mention of a 10” extension with a 15mm deep socket. Though it’s difficult to get it on the nut as you’re doing so blindly with limited hand access, I did get it after about 15 mins of screwing with it with the help of my jack handle as a breaker bar. Getting it back on is even harder but it helps to tape the nut into the socket so it doesn’t fall out. I used my phone video camera with flash on steady to peer at the screen tucked down there so I could sort of barely see what I was doing which helped out big time but is so awkward to manage by yourself. Pulling the Cat out the top is VERY frustrating!! I was ready to lose it when I violently wiggled it and it finally came out the top of the engine bay. You have to get the angle just right!
The wastegate bolts are pain to get at with the allen key but once broken loose you can undo and reinstall with your fingers. I elected to use my old WG actuator and shorten it as I noticed the actuator itself was strong but the door was loose by about 1/4” so shortening rod by ¼” as directed worked like a charm. Make sure you leave enough slack from the bracket as I cut too short and had to clamp it with pliers after extending rod with compressor to clear bracket enough to thread it.

I broke off all three downpipe bolts and could not drill through them with my drill and HSS drill bits (barely made a dent with my weight on drill!) so I took the exhaust off to get drilled by a machinist buddy. The exhaust clamp at the other end was completely seized with no hope so I just broke off those bolts too and it just fell apart. Had to hammer the socket on as they were so badly corroded around the area it didn’t allow it to just slip on. I’m currently running car with nothing after cat so its pretty loud lol my neighbors hate me. I finished at 11:30pm and anxiously started it up to test it but it was too loud to even leave my driveway at that time.
Next day I took it for a ride and SUCCESS! Car is boosting at 16 PSI peak (from 7psi!) and pulls hard. Exhaust roars at full throttle which is kind of nice, but draws a lot of attention. I will have some fun with it for a week or two then bolt it back up. Thanks again everyone who chimed in with advice.

Your best friend during this job
http://i66.tinypic.com/33af9fm.jpg

What I used to get that last hidden cat bolt
http://i67.tinypic.com/2hnz5ev.jpg

The tool in position
http://i67.tinypic.com/2q2r3x0.jpg

Comparison of old clogged cat with replacement - Likely clogged from stuck injector
http://i66.tinypic.com/2ziv9kk.jpg

[estrov]

I am getting P0299 on low RPM scenarios and sluggish acceleration when the transmission holds the engine RPMs below 2K.

After the engine RPMs are above 2K, the turbo spins up fine I get full boost (confirmed with VCDS).

My question is if this actuator mod will fix this problem even if the boost is fine at higher RPMs or do I potentially have another issue?

[van462]

On stock ecu software the turbo wastegate opens earlier it is only producing 13 psi. If running software then the turbo can't usually keep up without the waste gate fully closed. This mod should help your situation. Do the visual inspection to see if the rod is even loose first. If it moves you are losing boost.

[kt883]

yes stock rod does not move at all. There is so much pressure on the rod from the spring closing the door that the joint in the middle is tight. I have a spare turbo and made a video of both my WG which was loose as a goose flopping everywhere, and the other one which was stiff. How do I post vid from my phone?

[Lambda13]

yes stock rod does not move at all. There is so much pressure on the rod from the spring closing the door that the joint in the middle is tight. I have a spare turbo and made a video of both my WG which was loose as a goose flopping everywhere, and the other one which was stiff. How do I post vid from my phone?

Use Tapatalk, its the easiest. Or you can upload to a website to host the video. My k03 wastegate can spin... That's how loose it was.

[S4_SH1640]

So i have the wastegate flapper rattling noise and occasionally i get the same code.

My question is: Can i drive it like this? How long do i have before anything else goes bad? The turbo boosts just fine for normal driving, but i do hear the metalic rattle at low rpms when coming to a stop.

[van462]

So i have the wastegate flapper rattling noise and occasionally i get the same code.

My question is: Can i drive it like this? How long do i have before anything else goes bad? The turbo boosts just fine for normal driving, but i do hear the metalic rattle at low rpms when coming to a stop.

It causes no damage and can be driven indefinitely. The lower air being supplied to the motor will be read by the MAF and the appropriate fueling applied. You just lose some boost pressure. A loose waste gate always equals some boost loss; normally there is 100 percent exhaust flow thru the turbine and with the waste gate not clamped shut exhaust gases bypass the turbine and you will have reduced pressure and response. The waste gate normally can't even open until after 5 PSI of boost are available to supply pressure to open the waste gate actuator.

[kt883]

Mine was loose for quite some time until I worked up the courage to attempt this myself. It really saps the fun out of driving your car. Might as well get it done for the summer to enjoy your car.

[Militant-Grunt]

In the event you guys were not aware. Audi offers extended coverage on these turbos to 8yrs / 80k. I replace them under warranty all the time.

[S4_SH1640]

It causes no damage and can be driven indefinitely. The lower air being supplied to the motor will be read by the MAF and the appropriate fueling applied. You just lose some boost pressure. A loose waste gate always equals some boost loss; normally there is 100 percent exhaust flow thru the turbine and with the waste gate not clamped shut exhaust gases bypass the turbine and you will have reduced pressure and response. The waste gate normally can't even open until after 5 PSI of boost are available to supply pressure to open the waste gate actuator.

Thanks for this!! I have to say...This is the best technical response i got from this forum. lol Good to know there are people here who know what they're talking about. lol

[S4_SH1640]

Mine was loose for quite some time until I worked up the courage to attempt this myself. It really saps the fun out of driving your car. Might as well get it done for the summer to enjoy your car.

I plan to drive it like this for now (if it lets me lol) because i have some expenses coming my way, but its definitely on the list of the things to do. I will probably go with an oem Ko3 with an high flow cat, because i have a feeling my cat might be clogged a little.

[boomtime]

I plan to drive it like this for now (if it lets me lol) because i have some expenses coming my way, but its definitely on the list of the things to do. I will probably go with an oem Ko3 with an high flow cat, because i have a feeling my cat might be clogged a little.

HFC costs more than buying a stock cat from one of those guys using a straight pipe.
On a stock tune you will want a stock cat to avoid a CEL.

[S4_SH1640]

HFC costs more than buying a stock cat from one of those guys using a straight pipe.
On a stock tune you will want a stock cat to avoid a CEL.

Once i replace turbo either with oem or bigger, i will definitely get a tune, so a HFC is part of the plan.

[A4x]

In the event you guys were not aware. Audi offers extended coverage on these turbos to 8yrs / 80k. I replace them under warranty all the time.

Mine has the wastegate ticking while coasting, extremely loud! Louder than my non-resonated downpipe. But no CEL. Have you replaced the turbos without the customer getting a CEL? I'm sure my turbo is not normal...

[b6onboost]

I thought it was 7rs/70k for MY 09-12. Has something changed? Is it 8yrs/80k and now 2013+ models too?


In the event you guys were not aware. Audi offers extended coverage on these turbos to 8yrs / 80k. I replace them under warranty all the time.

[SejRamkas]

Instead of starting a new thread I'm gonna post my issues here since this seems to be the best resource for the P0299 code. Car has 101,250 miles and is an 09.

I recieved a P0299 code that comes and goes starting about 3 months ago. Also had intake blow and a malfunctioning EVAP purge valve. Attributed it to this and replaced both those components and cleared codes. About 2 weeks later the P0299 code reemerged. I started looking around and came to this thread.

Took a look at the wastegate arm and although it does not move forward and backwards in parallel to the engine there is some play moving perpendicular to the engine. The car has what feels like ample boost at high RPMs, but is seriously lacking at lower RPMs up to about 3K. I have also noticed a dip in fuel economy and my real time gauge only jumps around in .5 mpg increments instead of having large fluctuations like before (used to jump 15-20 mpg going from accelerating to little throttle on the highway and now jumps in .5mpg increments for a while before leveling out),

So and I plagued with a faulty wastegate like others on here?

I am going to get this fixed good enough to clear the CEL and then sell the car immediately. I have had too many issues with it over the 4 years of ownership and now that I am over 100k I fear they are only gonna get worse. That being said what is my best option?

1. Replace turbo with a used lower mileage unit?
2. Use the fix listed here to tighten the wastegate (remember no play in parallel to the car, only slight playperpendicular)
3. Buy a new Forge wastegate (about same price as used turbo) and replace with that unit?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!

[skywalker15]

Instead of starting a new thread I'm gonna post my issues here since this seems to be the best resource for the P0299 code. Car has 101,250 miles and is an 09.

I recieved a P0299 code that comes and goes starting about 3 months ago. Also had intake blow and a malfunctioning EVAP purge valve. Attributed it to this and replaced both those components and cleared codes. About 2 weeks later the P0299 code reemerged. I started looking around and came to this thread.

Took a look at the wastegate arm and although it does not move forward and backwards in parallel to the engine there is some play moving perpendicular to the engine. The car has what feels like ample boost at high RPMs, but is seriously lacking at lower RPMs up to about 3K. I have also noticed a dip in fuel economy and my real time gauge only jumps around in .5 mpg increments instead of having large fluctuations like before (used to jump 15-20 mpg going from accelerating to little throttle on the highway and now jumps in .5mpg increments for a while before leveling out),

So and I plagued with a faulty wastegate like others on here?

I am going to get this fixed good enough to clear the CEL and then sell the car immediately. I have had too many issues with it over the 4 years of ownership and now that I am over 100k I fear they are only gonna get worse. That being said what is my best option?

1. Replace turbo with a used lower mileage unit?
2. Use the fix listed here to tighten the wastegate (remember no play in parallel to the car, only slight playperpendicular)
3. Buy a new Forge wastegate (about same price as used turbo) and replace with that unit?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!
I don't have a suggestion as to what the best option would be for you, but I too had the wastegate issue and replaced the mechanism with the forge actuator. This ended up being a temporary fix for me as the turbo is again leaking boost. There are two issues with the earlier revision turbos they used on these cars. The first being the arm on the flapper that the actuator arm connects to will start to wear, which allows some play. The second is the bushing on the wastegate itself will wear, again allowing play. My fix lasted about a year before there was enough play to allow a boost leak again. The nice thing with the forge unit is the arm is adjustable so I just keep tightening it until its snug again and wait for the arm or bushing to wear more, then repeat. One giant pain in the ass.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[SejRamkas]

One giant pain for the next owner. I hate to be that way but i don't plan on keeping it past fixing this. That being said the actuator will have to come out regardless so will the fix listed here work for what I'm describing or should I spring for the forge piece? If it lasts for 6 months then I would be perfectly comfortable with that.

[skywalker15]

One giant pain for the next owner. I hate to be that way but i don't plan on keeping it past fixing this. That being said the actuator will have to come out regardless so will the fix listed here work for what I'm describing or should I spring for the forge piece? If it lasts for 6 months then I would be perfectly comfortable with that.
If you plan on selling it in 6 months its worth trying the actuator mod thats listed on here vs spending the money for the forge piece in my opinion.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[A4x]

How can I induce a P0299 code to get a new turbo? Mine ticks like a m***erf**ker and is the loudest part of my car when coasting down the street. Really embarrassing.

Will the dealer replace without the code? Cause it sure is loud enough. Just kind of a pain to get to the dealer....kinda far.

[van462]

How can I induce a P0299 code to get a new turbo? Mine ticks like a m***erf**ker and is the loudest part of my car when coasting down the street. Really embarrassing.

Will the dealer replace without the code? Cause it sure is loud enough. Just kind of a pain to get to the dealer....kinda far.

A few ways. You can undo the e or c clip from the wastegate actuator and then slide the rod off of the wastegate. Some mentioned they were able to tweak the actuator bracket to tighten there's... So the opposite should work. Disconnecting the hose from the throttle body should work as well. The engine will be breathing unfiltered air. This will maintain the vacuum system at idle to prevent lean codes. It will lose all boost so it should trigger very quickly. It may go into limp mode. It will likely trigger a rich code that normally doesn't go with the p0299 as the turbo is pulling air thru the maf and the ECU will match the metered air with fuel. Only the first two would properly mimic it. Also loosening the DV screws a few turns may work but the oring may take damage.

[sidkneeeeee]

How can I induce a P0299 code to get a new turbo? Mine ticks like a m***erf**ker and is the loudest part of my car when coasting down the street. Really embarrassing.

Will the dealer replace without the code? Cause it sure is loud enough. Just kind of a pain to get to the dealer....kinda far.

I have a ticking noise also when im driving / Coasting, i thought its something with my brakes that i recently changed out, the loud sounds is like a baseball card hitting a bike spoke. Is this the type of ticking your referring too? i have no coded and car drives fine.

[skywalker15]

I have a ticking noise also when im driving / Coasting, i thought its something with my brakes that i recently changed out, the loud sounds is like a baseball card hitting a bike spoke. Is this the type of ticking your referring too? i have no coded and car drives fine.
The ticking like a card in a bike wheel is an indicator that your wastegate is loose. Just because you have a code doesn't mean you aren't leaking boost, sometimes it takes a heavy under boost condition to draw a code.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[sidkneeeeee]

The ticking like a card in a bike wheel is an indicator that your wastegate is loose. Just because you have a code doesn't mean you aren't leaking boost, sometimes it takes a heavy under boost condition to draw a code.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Great I have to worry about the turbo now in an addition to the timing chain tensioner, im at 81K miles so extended warranty on the turbo is out.

[skywalker15]

Great I have to worry about the turbo now in an addition to the timing chain tensioner, im at 81K miles so extended warranty on the turbo is out.
Do you feel any excess lag when you're getting on the throttle? I know when mine got really bad it felt like the car was just dead in the water. You could always try the wastegate actuator fix which has been pretty heavy documented on here. If you plan on doing the timing tensioner work yourself getting to the wastegate actuator is really easy while you have everything apart. If you do it on its own with everything still together, it's a royal pain in the ass but you can do it.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[sidkneeeeee]

Do you feel any excess lag when you're getting on the throttle? I know when mine got really bad it felt like the car was just dead in the water. You could always try the wastegate actuator fix which has been pretty heavy documented on here. If you plan on doing the timing tensioner work yourself getting to the wastegate actuator is really easy while you have everything apart. If you do it on its own with everything still together, it's a royal pain in the ass but you can do it.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I noticed just a little more lag then usual, that my butt dyno noticed something was off. But it still pulls pretty hard when i need to. I commute 26 miles a day, and don't push it hard cuz there's traffic.

Gotta find a reputable shop that maybe can dp the wastegate actuator fix and timing tensioner work [:(]

[Townending]

Has anybody been full throttle then lose boost?/power all of a sudden around 5k rpm? Three times in the past 2 days I have been flooring it and around 5k rpm, I just lose power. The car will still accelerate and rpms will rise, but it rises slowly and accelerates slowly. Once I shift gears, boost comes back and boom, full power. So far its happened in 2nd gear, 4th gear, and 5th gear ( 8 Speed Auto ). I do have a little bit of shaft play, so I'm already expecting to do this mod or jump to K04. I was just curious if anybody else has noticed this symptom.

[mahunik]

If its stock turbo they're pretty small so if I ever whip it, it tends to lose power by 5500rpm and mines a manual btw. The reason it does this because the turbo can only put out so much due to its size.

[Townending]

This is a car running APR Stage 2 E85, it feels like going from 300hp to 100hp. I know its not the turbo running out of breath, because even when I go to 6500 rpm, it still has leagues more power than when this issue hits. This is not a gradual loss in power as rpms go up, its like once I hit 5000rpm, it feels like I lose all boost and the engine becomes naturally aspirated. Unfortunately my VCDS cable is a chinese knockoff, so it can not do logging (Only issue I've had with the cable), so I'll need to find someone local to help me log it.

[Tom_A4]

Thanks to everyone who contributed their knowledge to this thread, I was able to follow along and replace my wastegate actuator with the forge unit. A few things I noticed that may make this job easier for others in the future are:

1. If you remove both front and rear underbody trays you can get under the car, and with your head near the right side front tire you can actually see the 4th bolt holding the cat to the turbo. With a long extension you can remove and replace this bolt while actually looking at it instead of doing it blind from the top of the car.

2. Instead of taking the exhaust apart at the resonator you can simply go to the rear of the car at the muffler and slip the exhaust hanger out of the rubber mount. This allows you to move the whole exhaust system back enough to access the backside of the turbo without worry of breaking the exhaust bolts.

[van462]

2. Instead of taking the exhaust apart at the resonator you can simply go to the rear of the car at the muffler and slip the exhaust hanger out of the rubber mount. This allows you to move the whole exhaust system back enough to access the backside of the turbo without worry of breaking the exhaust bolts.[/QUOTE]

Good idea, I'll add this to the original post

[mahunik]

For people that used the forge actuator does that still need to be modded aswell like this? and how does the actuator work with stock tune, notice any differences?

[kt883]

Finally got around to uploading my videos


here is a video of the wastegate on my turbo showing how loose it is. That rod should have ZERO play in it as the spring of the actuator puts quite a bit of tension on it to keep it closed

View My Video (http://tinypic.com/r/2my82l1/9)


Strong turbo wastegate - can barely move it by hand with all the tension from the spring keeping door closed - No rattle at all

View My Video (http://tinypic.com/r/ma7wuf/9)

[ports]

Could this effect gas mileage?

[van462]

Very little, may even get better mileage. Fuel delivery is based off of air flow thru the MAF. Since there is less air, there should be less gas sprayed in the cylinder.

[Gerblack]

Reading through this thread as it feels like I have lost all boost and am just riding on the NA 2.0. My actuator has no play in it but I do get the 0229 code was going to try and DV and then N75 and cross fingers. I bought a slightly used turbo from someone who was upgrading to K04 so might be time to try and put that one in my original lasted just shy of 150K.

[Jezza]

Has anybody been full throttle then lose boost?/power all of a sudden around 5k rpm? Three times in the past 2 days I have been flooring it and around 5k rpm, I just lose power. The car will still accelerate and rpms will rise, but it rises slowly and accelerates slowly. Once I shift gears, boost comes back and boom, full power. So far its happened in 2nd gear, 4th gear, and 5th gear ( 8 Speed Auto ). I do have a little bit of shaft play, so I'm already expecting to do this mod or jump to K04. I was just curious if anybody else has noticed this symptom.
I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiast, but that doesn't sound like a loose wastegate to me. It sounds more like the ecm is stepping in and cutting boost/throttle for some reason. Have you scanned for codes? It could be misfires, or perhaps your boost is spiking past acceptable levels causing the ecm to freak out and slam the throttle plate shut. I believe closing the throttle is this ecm's preferred method of intervention when too much boost/torque is being produced (its like an emergency response). It could also be misfires. Although those usually cause a CEL.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Townending]

I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiast, but that doesn't sound like a loose wastegate to me. It sounds more like the ecm is stepping in and cutting boost/throttle for some reason. Have you scanned for codes? It could be misfires, or perhaps your boost is spiking past acceptable levels causing the ecm to freak out and slam the throttle plate shut. I believe closing the throttle is this ecm's preferred method of intervention when too much boost/torque is being produced (its like an emergency response). It could also be misfires. Although those usually cause a CEL.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

I've had the ECM freak out and shut the throttle plate a few times, this is nothing like that. The car will still accelerate, it just has 0 boost.

When I removed the turbo, the wastegate hads tons of play. My guess is that the wastegate couldn't keep itself closed and flew open completely resulting in the feeling I had.

Moving onto K04, I never had this issue.

[boomtime]

I always thought the ecu could limit boost at the throttle plate, it made sense to me...

[van462]

First post updated with google drive link for images. I will try to upload to another host at some point.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_v5AoUXw2DSTkxUYlhSSGZzZkU

[alexgaspari]

just bought a 2010 a4 s-line, a week later i pull code p0299, read this whole thread, amazing information. i went ahead and did all my checks, pulled the cat back and sure enough the wastegate flap was loose. found a turbo on some local ad online for 250$ which i find awfully cheap, he sent me videos showing no play at all on the actuator rod and wastegate flap, however he had the audi tsb clip installed. he states the turbo has 60 000km on it. so now my question is... how can i make sure this turbo is still ok once i have it in hand? do i remove the clip and see if theres any play? anything else i gotta check thats not wastegate related? any help would be appreciated! thanks!

[van462]

Its always wise to check for shaft play. Grab the end of the shaft on the hot side next to the wastegate. It should only spin smoothly, it should have no motion up/down, side to side, or in/out. Look at the edge of the wheels where they are closest to the housing and see if they have any broken vanes or rub marks. The clip should have very little impact on the wastegate play. I think it was designed for the GTI where the wastegate is in a different orientation.

Photos moved to Google Drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_v5AoUXw2DSOU5jYm52NUx1REk

I moved the photos to Google Drive folder above

[KLawre2685]

Van462,

I'm reviving an old thread because my 2009 Avant gets the CEL code for underboost almost daily and it seems only on days when the outside air temp is above 50 deg F.
I can clear i using Carista but it comes back usually during hard accelerations. I have about 130k mile son it but other than this, the car runs great and I really can't feel any lack in boost.

What is the quick & dirty solution that you refer to with welding wire?
I would love to do this to see if it is the problem. I can wiggle the rod arm a little when i check it.

Also the google drive link to the pictures no longer works. Bummer - I could really use the help.

Thanks.
Keith

[BeerBrent]

Van462,

I'm reviving an old thread because my 2009 Avant gets the CEL code for underboost almost daily and it seems only on days when the outside air temp is above 50 deg F.
I can clear i using Carista but it comes back usually during hard accelerations. I have about 130k mile son it but other than this, the car runs great and I really can't feel any lack in boost.

What is the quick & dirty solution that you refer to with welding wire?
I would love to do this to see if it is the problem. I can wiggle the rod arm a little when i check it.

Also the google drive link to the pictures no longer works. Bummer - I could really use the help.

Thanks.
Keith

How many miles you got? Have you checked to see if you can get your turbo replaced under the extended warranty? They replaced mine after getting that same code and it cost me $0.

[KLawre2685]

I have about 130,000 miles. What do they offer for extended warranty?
I have no info on it, as I purchased the car used a few years ago.

Thanks.
Keith

[JBAeroEngineer]

No CEL light yet, but I got my first P0299 stored code last week on 6/23. Cleared it today since it hadn't came back. Ordered a new DV for my 2010, hoping it isn't the turbo yet. 95,118 miles. 74768

[nitsujle]

Does anyone have experience installing the Forge Actuator? How does the rod attach to the flat arm coming off of the hot side of the turbo?


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[A4 Centaur]

^There is a circlip to hold it on. Looks like a pain to get to from up top, but look at page 1 and it looks like thats the way to go.

[nitsujle]

^There is a circlip to hold it on. Looks like a pain to get to from up top, but look at page 1 and it looks like thats the way to go.

Just realized Forge makes the turnbuckles as well for the thing so that solves that issue, however they make 4 sizes of eyelets for the 52mm, does anyone know which would be appropriate for the B8 application?


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[Dave1985]

Excellent write up!And I'm also considering how bad my plugs looked.And if found a blog it talk on this topic.
https://www.car-auto-repair.com

[SDF1]

Hello Team!

At low rpm the throttle response is sluggish and I do hear a ticking sound after a long drive (1.5+hrs). I've brought it to Audi and they told me I'm on a ticking time bomb, it's a 2009 with 150,000km (93,750miles) with original turbo. They took it for a test drive and verified it's not operating normally but told me till get a P0299 error they are not allowed to replace it. This was a year ago and I don't drive this car often 10,000km (6,250miles) a year. I only have a few months warrant left on the extended warranty.

What can i do to stress the system to get that error? (I paid over 5000$ to get an extended warranty so I'm worry free... I'm actually very worried....)
PM are welcome if you think it's not appropriate to post here.

Thank you

[adamazing]

Hello Team!

At low rpm the throttle response is sluggish and I do hear a ticking sound after a long drive (1.5+hrs). I've brought it to Audi and they told me I'm on a ticking time bomb, it's a 2009 with 150,000km (93,750miles) with original turbo. They took it for a test drive and verified it's not operating normally but told me till get a P0299 error they are not allowed to replace it. This was a year ago and I don't drive this car often 10,000km (6,250miles) a year. I only have a few months warrant left on the extended warranty.

What can i do to stress the system to get that error? (I paid over 5000$ to get an extended warranty so I'm worry free... I'm actually very worried....)
PM are welcome if you think it's not appropriate to post here.

Thank you

My only recommendation to speed along the degradation is to drive it like you stole it, as much as you can. Particularly from a stop, since that's when the actuator will clamp and hold the wastegate fully closed to build peak boost. The more fully-closed actuations you run it through, the more wear its going to put on the arm/plate, and the faster and further its going to work itself loose.

Basically, you'll need to drive it like a douche around town as much as you can.

[JBAeroEngineer]

Has anyone had luck with AoA helping cover costs out of warranty? If so what was the split?

[irobb]

Has anyone had luck with AoA helping cover costs out of warranty? If so what was the split?

No. I have the 299 code pop up after they fixed my timing chain under warranty but since I am over the threshold in years and miles, they won't do anything to help me with the 299 code. However, when I clear the code, everything seems okay. It will come back though as it has a couple times already. I am not sure what to do whether it be upgrading the turbo or trying the quick fix of the wastegate.

[SDF1]

What happens if the hose with N75 is kinked or is loose? Would that produce a P0299 code?

[JBAeroEngineer]

What happens if the hose with N75 is kinked or is loose? Would that produce a P0299 code?Yeah, if you need to induce. Wish I would've earlier.

[SDF1]

Yeah, if you need to induce. Wish I would've earlier.

Hypothetically if you do need to induce. Pinch or loosen hose?

[JBAeroEngineer]

Hypothetically if you do need to induce. Pinch or loosen hose?We pinched. Should throw around 3k rpm. May not be a CEL

[SDF1]

We pinched. Should throw around 3k rpm. May not be a CEL

Pinching didn't work.
Did a full VCDS scan after driving 4000rpm on 1st and 2nd gear.

[Audiban]

Many thanks for the informative thread. Used a similar approach to fix my wastegate actuator rod. Car was building boost slowly and was sluggish at lower RPMs.

Visual inspection showed a little play in the actuator rod. Disconnected the exhaust pipe and the wastegate did indeed have slack in it. Here it is with the actuator removed.

https://i.postimg.cc/hj3yJNCN/wastegate.jpg

Removed the wastegate actuator, cut threads in it, and used a turnbuckle for infinite adjustment.

https://i.postimg.cc/J4ckhZdW/actuator.jpg

What a difference the fix made! Boost builds much quicker and gets from 2k rpm to 6k rpm 2 seconds faster.

A before and after VCDS log confirms the improvement.

https://i.postimg.cc/1Xqky99v/boostlog-wastegate.png

A few of my takeaways:

- I did not need to remove the downpipe. Disconnecting the 4 bolts at the exhaust flange was enough to move the exhaust out of the way enough to reach the actuator/wastegate arm e-clip.
- I did all work from the top of the engine. No need to jack up the car or get underneath. I could reach the 4th exhaust bolt by hand and get the nut back on using the 10" extension and a 15mm socket.
- The e-clip is a pain to remove and re-install. I found it easiest after the fact to disconnect the entire wastegate actuator assembly including the n75 hose and open the wastegate all the way to visually see and work the e-clip.
- Left handed dies are impossible to find locally. I ordered one online which set me back 3 days as I was waiting for it to arrive. Using a turn-buckle was well worth the wait. I can now adjust the actuator rod without disassembly.

One outstanding question for those that have done this fix: how hot do temperatures get around the actuator rod? Many of the turnbuckles and unions used are zinc plated. Any concerns of these parts not holding up to the heat?

[A4 Centaur]

Great work you did there!

Regarding zinc plating, I'm sure that stuff will burn off in short order. Did you put anti-seize in the threads by chance?

[Audiban]

Great work you did there!

Regarding zinc plating, I'm sure that stuff will burn off in short order. Did you put anti-seize in the threads by chance?

Thanks! Yes, I applied anti-seize to the threads. The turnbuckle is aluminum.

[KLawre2685]

Hi All,

I got the dreaded P0299 code and my car failed PA state inspection because of it several months ago.
My old waste gate rod was chewed up at the end (see picture) and causing 95% of the slop and never allowing the WG to close.

109196

I did the same "turn buckle modification" to a NEW waste gate actuator rod I purchased off of ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Turbo-Actuator-Fits-AUDI-Seat-2-0-TFSI-IHI-06H145702L-CDNB-CDNC-CAEA/263559909301?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) for $75.
This allowed for about an 1/8 inch of "pre-load" on the actuator rod when installed.

Took about 6 hours total and was not too hard other than it eats up your hands with all of the sharp edges you work within.
I'm a garage hobbyist and didn't need any special tools. I also replaced the DV and the N75 since my car has over 150K miles and it is cheap insurance.

My issue is the ECU code is still present even after driving about 150 miles and it needs to be clear to get my inspection stickers.
There is no CEL but the P0299 ECU code doesn't clear using Carista. The shop said I need to drive it more for the code to clear in the ECU - does this sound correct?
I have to think that the car is fixed because the horrible ticking sound is gone and the car drives like new again with tons more power.

Do I need someone with VAG-COM to clear the ECU code?

Thanks.
Keith

[ruski.dimachka]

hey guys, so i recently purchase an 2011 a5, 91k miles. great car, but about a week after i got it i got the dread P0299 code. I was also hearing the rattle sound. It brought me to this thread! (Thanks everyone involved)
After doing a leak check and not finding any leaks i removed the exhaust manifold and found my wastegate to be moving all over the place. I started to remove the turbo charger.
I realized that I only had to remove the exhaust manifold, so I pulled that out without having to disconnect coolant or oil lines.
After examining the wastegate further, I found that the bushing was worn as well as the arm that connects to the actuator.
I found a new wastegate, bushing, and arm on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-0T-VW-Audi-IHI-RHF5H-Wastegate-Rattle-Flapper-Rebuild-Kit-2009-2010-2011-2012/123471075185?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I used files to remove the arm from the wastegate since i dont have a dremel. It bends off after removing the welded part. Mark where the center of the old arm was on the exhaust manifold And used a hammer to hit out the old bushing insert.
https://oi183.photobucket.com/albums/x71/dimac7776/20190414_184222.jpg
It is an interference fit to install the new bushing, I used a heatgun to heat up the manifold and dry ice to cool the bushing. It went right in. (be careful not to put it in too far[:D]) center it to cover the hole.
https://oi183.photobucket.com/albums/x71/dimac7776/20190420_082055.jpg
I had a buddy weld the arm and the wastegate together. After i reinstalled the exhaust manifold my wastegate was still not tight enough so i did the wastegate actuator mod. (oh dont be like me and forget to reconnect the hose on the back of the actuator.)[headbang]overboost fault.
https://oi183.photobucket.com/albums/x71/dimac7776/20190420_152140.jpg
I gave up on trying to install the snap-ring on the actuator end arm and just put the turboclip on it instead.
After getting everything done right and adjusting the actuator to be the perfect length Im getting boost. now just waiting on the codes to go away so i can pass emissions.
hope it helps someone.

[Theiceman]

Im not sure that code will go away. You might have to clear codes and drive till monitors set


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[masaichris]

I'll have to check this on my car... I feel to be having either a Diverter valve issue or this flap issue.

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[Jeevan]

Photos moved to Google Drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_v5AoUXw2DSOU5jYm52NUx1REk


After reading the Ticking While Coasting thread I realized I should recheck my wastegate flapper to see is the wastegate could be adjusted. Here is a little DIY that will allow for an easy diagnosis and repair routes available. I bought my car used and it was just out of warrenty when I bought it, I had APR software loaded in the same week. So I didn't have a baseline to what a new car felt like.

Ticking while coasting thread
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/539883-Ticking-Noise-While-Coasting?highlight=p0299

Symptoms: Low RPM throttle response sluggish. ticking noise while coasting (wastegate chatter), P0299 code (mine was very intermitted, maybe 4 times a year and usually only with suspect gas).

Results after fix: Improved throttle response, fewer transmission shifts on hills, 2nd gear starts and slow roll offs (auto) are much improved. Turbo spool improved/back to spec. Overall more torque available.

Procedure shown is with a HFC installed, stock cat may differ in clearance available. Procedure done while on car ramps.

First step is to verify the problem with the least amount of disassembly. Remove MAF connector and airbox hoses. Pull airbox straight up and out of the way. This will allow visual inspection of the wastegate actuator rod. You can actually get you hand on it without pulling the airbox if you know where to feel. Rod is highlighted. If rod has any play your wastegate is not seating and you are losing boost. If you are under warranty and no TD1 its time to visit the dealer for a free turbo. If rod has no play and you have P0299 code; likely your N75 valve has failed or you may need a new turbo. Pulling the cat back for a visual inspection would verify if the wastegate is the problem. Shady fix for around 2 dollars.


http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/Heatshield_zps29100932.png (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/Heatshield_zps29100932.png.html)



Remove front O2 sensor. The rearmost O2 ensure you have enough wire slack to slide the cat about 8 inches back and down. Remove 4 nuts from the cat to turbo flange. On the bottom side of the car remove the main splash guard. remove 2 nuts on the exhaust coupling in behind the resonator. You may want to have 2 spare bolts and nuts as these often need to be cut off or will shear in half, 1/4"x20tpi x1" should work (M8x25mm). I left the HFC attached to the downpipe as those bolts are no fun. Remove the bolt securing the HFC to the transmission (auto). I did the bottom bolt on the bracket so I wouldn't have to fight the one with the spring on it. Sorry no photos of this.
Alternately- (Credit to Tom_A4) Instead of taking the exhaust apart at the resonator you can simply go to the rear of the car at the muffler and slip the exhaust hanger out of the rubber mount. This allows you to move the whole exhaust system back enough to access the backside of the turbo without worry of breaking the exhaust bolts.

Below you can see the wastegate. This one is floating on the arm and sits off the exhaust port by about 3/32". The wastegate actuator should have spring tension against it. There is no adjustment available on the actuator rod as there were on previous K03's

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/2_zps725d24e6.png (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/2_zps725d24e6.png.html)

This write-up originally had the flapper temp fixed using Mig wire to shim the flapper. I wanted to see if this was actually causing my problems before I started to actually modify anything. This is why you may see references in following threads. Alex1188 found that Forge makes a replacement actuator, and that the actuator can be removed without pulling off the turbo. I decided to first modify my actuator as the low cost fix, but I may go with Forge in the future as its a quality part and possible power gains. Forge part number is FMACVAG08.

From the first photo remove the heatshield above the exhaust manifold. It is held in place by 2 M10 triple square bolts and a 6MM allen bolt. Remove the air inlet hose to the turbo (7mm hex bolts or common screwdriver). Next remove 2 5mm bolts from the crankcase breather hose on the turbo inlet. The hose is flexible enough to be moved out of the way and doesn't need to be completely removed. Remove the fabric heatshield from the turbo coolant line (4 snaps). Remove the hose from the N75 valve going to the actuator. Its on the very front of the turbo.

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/IMG_4717_zps45139ad5.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/IMG_4717_zps45139ad5.jpg.html)

The coolant line causes most of the issues in changing out the actuator as it limits room to access the screws. It didn't look that easy to remove the line as it has bad access as well. I chose to work with it in place. There are 2 5mm allen bolts that secure the actuator. I used a cut down 5mm allen and a allen bit with a wrench to remove them.

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/IMG_4721_zps884765e9.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/IMG_4721_zps884765e9.jpg.html)
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/wrench_zps4ecfcd00.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/wrench_zps4ecfcd00.jpg.html)

Remove the e clip from the rod end. Having the cat out of the way makes this much easier.

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/3_zpsc261e098.png (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/3_zpsc261e098.png.html)

Slide the actuate fwd and down to remove from the car.

I chose to modify my actuator. I figured if I messed up at least there is now a viable replacement option. I also thought by staying stock spring rate I may have less adjustments to do later to prevent overboosting. Best of all its easy. I cut the actuator rod about an inch past where the bracket ends. Secure the rod with a vice or vicegrips to prevent possible internal wastegate damage from the shaft spinning while threading. I then removed 1/4" of rod length. I threaded both ends 1/4"-20tpi. Recoupled the rod using a thread union from Lowes. I would have preferred the infinite adjustment of a turnbuckle setup vs using a union but I down have a left handed die.
Photo should say "Rod was cut and 1/4" removed."
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii527/van462/IMG_4722_zps9db36145.jpg (http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/van462/media/IMG_4722_zps9db36145.jpg.html)

Because its a union fitting and not a turnbuckle you have to turn the rod end in 1 full turn increments to adjust the length. I put actuator end into the flapper arm and then looked at the actuator mounting holes. I adjusted the end 1 full turn at a time until the mount holes required me to slightly pull on the actuator to put the bolts in. Before I installed the bolts slide the actuator to the rear and install the e clip on the flapper arm. Install the 2 actuator bolts. Alternately you could bolt the actuator down first. Then spin the rod end until its just won't go into the actuator arm. Using an air compressor set to 10 psi pressurize the actuator (the rod will extend) and install the e clip. I like to air cycle it a few times to make sure the exhaust flapper is seating. The stock actuator should start movement at 4psi and be fully open at 10psi. You can also tinker here if you wish and adjust the rod shorter and increase spring preload. Doing this you should really do data logs of requested and actual boost. I don't have a vagcom cable, so I kept a conservative setting of the wastegate just closing with very little preload.





Photos moved to Google Drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_v5AoUXw2DSOU5jYm52NUx1REk




I am from future, I just verified my turbo problem using a boroscope via oxygen sensor hole. turned on the car for 2 secs while the boroscope is near the wastegate door and found the rattle.

[blazer258]

I'll jump in this thread...threw a P0299 code about a month ago and replaced the DV with a new revision D model. Afterwards the CEL came back on and upon further research I figured the whole turbo was shot (could hear the wastegate chatter/ ticking while coasting etc..). I picked one up off the forums which is getting installed next week (along with an IE downpipe/ stage 2 flash). Hopefully this corrects the issue, an expense I wasn't expecting but getting a turbo off the forums saved me some good $ and I'm looking forward to stage 2! Figured may as well do it while the cars already in the shop

[Jeevan]

these damn turbo's are so expensive, I will go buy a parts car instead.

[Party_Marty]

For those attemting this fix yourselves, i have removed the wastegate without taking the exhaust off. It is possible, you just need to know what you are doing 'blind'. I was able to feel behind the turbo and remove the retaining clip. It is very tight, but doable.

[kileywm]

Recently attempted this fix (thanks for sharing it!) and had some difficulties.

2009 Audi A4 Quattro @ 152000 miles

Found this post when trying to track down the cause of a rattle while coasting. Can only hear it with windows down. Easily isolated and confirmed the issue by revving the engine while in park thanks to another poster. Hit 3000+ rpm and quickly let off of the throttle to hear the wastegate flapper rattle.

I decided on the turnbuckle solution for fine adjustment during installation and easy future adjustments without having to remove the wastegate actuator.

Parts for the task:
(1) Left-Hand to Right-Hand Female Hex Thread Adapter, 18-8 Stainless Steel, 1/4"-20 Thread Size (https://www.mcmaster.com/97372a106) ($8.16)
(1) 1/4"-20 Left-Hand Threaded Steel Hex Nut
(1) 1/4"-20 Right-Hand Threaded Steel Hex Nut
(1) 1/4"-20 Left-Hand Die
(1) 1/4"-20 Right-Hand Die
(1) 5mm Allen bit (1/4" shank)

Here is what I did:
1. Removed the airbox & hose.
2. Removed the crankcase breather hose from the turbo.
3. Attempted to remove the heatshield but only got 2 of the 3 bolts out. Ended up rounding the head of the 6mm Allen bolt. Decided to leave it be for now and proceed.
4. Cut down the shank length of the 5mm Allen bit with an angle grinder. The goal is to shorten it enough to fit in the tight quarters around the 5mm bolts holding on the wastegate actuator mount.
5. Maneuver the shortened 5mm Allen bit into the head of a bolt on the wastegate actuator mount. *Tip* it is very very easy to drop this bit. Consider a dab of glue + thread/string/fishing line to save yourself some headache if you drop it.
6. Use a 1/4" ratcheting wrench to drive the 5mm Allen bit. These were *really* tough to loosen. Ended up getting one out and then rounding the Allen head on the other... /sigh

Given the tight quarters, does anyone have advice on getting the rounded Allen bolt out without lots of disassembly? I plan to go back in once I find a locking pliers that will fit and see if I can't get that bolt out.

[Party_Marty]

For those attemting this fix yourselves, i have removed the wastegate without taking the exhaust off. It is possible, you just need to know what you are doing 'blind'. I was able to feel behind the turbo and remove the retaining clip. It is very tight, but doable.

So i finished the modification this weekend. I chopped, tapped and re-installed the wastegate back on the car. Mind you, this was very difficult, but 100% POSSIBLE without removing the exhaust. Also, so ya'll know, i have big ogre hands, so it will probably be easier for 92% of everyone who will do this. I started the car for a few minutes to let it run, good to go.

[Slick_B8]

So i finished the modification this weekend. I chopped, tapped and re-installed the wastegate back on the car. Mind you, this was very difficult, but 100% POSSIBLE without removing the exhaust. Also, so ya'll know, i have big ogre hands, so it will probably be easier for 92% of everyone who will do this. I started the car for a few minutes to let it run, good to go.

You coming to California any time soon? Lol

[rcprato]

FWIW there is a guy in Canada (Ottawa) that will rebuild your waste gate for $175
Turbo Parts Canada
I have one of their rebuilt turbos in my Avant with rebuilt waste gate that is working great
A lot of downtime unfortunately if you don’t have a used manifold to send him before taking your turbo out and having rebuilt unit ready to go back in

[Party_Marty]

You coming to California any time soon? Lol

haha fly me out and i'll fix it for ya ;)


FWIW there is a guy in Canada (Ottawa) that will rebuild your waste gate for $175
Turbo Parts Canada
I have one of their rebuilt turbos in my Avant with rebuilt waste gate that is working great
A lot of downtime unfortunately if you don’t have a used manifold to send him before taking your turbo out and having rebuilt unit ready to go back in

That sounds nice, but you can buy a new replacement from Forge Motorsports for around $200, and just swap it out yourself...

The reason i went with this fix, is that it cost me in total ~ $3 dollars

[rcprato]

Is the Forge kit like this ?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/e19f95c445de459fd58be311b5b5af69.jpg


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