Amsoil Vs Motul Vs Mobil 1 Synthetic oil wars

[SN95Audi87]

We haven't had a amsoil, motul, mobil 1 debate in a while heck we can even throw Liqui Moly in there too if anyone wants to talk about it. I've been researching and finding ALL KINDDDSSS of answers on the net. I have a decent conclusion, but I want to know what are you guys opinions and if anyone has oil analysis on there oil please speak up. All I know is that our little 1.8 turbo motors beat up up oil very bad, and it would be cool to have a friendly debate on why you like the oil you like....

I am not an oil tech so I can't tell you why group III is worse than group IV oils. So it would be awesome to hear your experiences. Summer is right around the corner so your engine is going to be shearing that 40 weight pretty good as it hits into 90+ degrees. Speak up oil gurus. [;)]

[EErie B6]

Awesome! Let the war begin!

Rotella T6 FTW!

anything else and your car WILL spontaneously burst into flames then explode.

/thread

[>_<]

[SN95Audi87]

^ Hahaaaaaa. I've used 5w40 Amsoil European formula with great results, and Mobil 1 0w40 for fall/winter. I've never used Motul but the Audi guys love it as well. Which one will shear the least, and burn off the less? I've never used Rotella T6 but I've heard about it a few times. Let it begin.......

[c0r3y.af]

Awesome! Let the war begin!

Rotella T6 FTW!

anything else and your car WILL spontaneously burst into flames then explode.

/thread

[>_<]

This.
/thread


Seriously though, I don't think you would notice much of a difference between the three you mentioned, considering you're comparing all of the same weights and such. I do love the Rotella though. Highly recommend it if you can get your hands on it.

[EErie B6]

I used to run Mobil 1. Not the euro stuff as I could never find it, I just ran the 10-30 and changed it every 5k. It worked fine and all, but I didn't like to 10 factor or the 30 factor very much so I looked for something different. I was not about to rely on special order oils, so I never explored the Motul, Lubri/Liquimoly, Amsoil (although Amsoil is getting ready to go in my B6's 02x), or any of those. I don't want to be on a trip somewhere in need of an oil change, or even just a quart of oil, and not have one handy. I've always been a big fan of HD Diesel oils due to their resistance to shear, ability to withstand high temps, and high detergent content all of which being very good things to have if its going into a 1.8T. I spent a lot of time over on BITOG and ended up with 3 candidates. Shell Rotella T6, German Castrol, and Mobil Delvac 1 ESP.

German Castrol (supposedly available at auto parts stores) I have yet to actually come across... though I have not looked too hard for it.

Mobil Delvac 1 ESP (available at most truck stops) is a true Group IV HD Diesel oil with fantastic specs. As much as I hate to admit it, from the specs I have seen, it appears to be ever so slightly better at everything than Rotella T6. (2-3 deg here and there but overall minuscule.) Mobil 1 "TDT" (available at Walmart) from what I read is virtually the same exact formulation.

Rotella T6 is a cracked hydrocarbon and I guess is technically a Group III (last I knew) but it kills traditional Group IIIs (and most Group IVs) in every way. Don't expect it to break down and sludge up your engine any time soon. It's actually pretty effective at cleaning it. It's marketed as a synthetic, carries the "SM" rating and all that jazz. I've seen nothing but rock solid oil analysis reports from it. I know this is not a 1.8t and I don't have one for that motor as I don't put enough miles on it to warrant one, but here's a report from my 2.7T with over 7k miles, lots of stop and go, several 2hr rtips of sustained 3krpms+, a full summer, and part of a winter on it... and no make up oil to dilute any results.

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx252/EErie-B6/My%20Car%20-%20General/f6b04163.png (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/EErie-B6/media/My%20Car%20-%20General/f6b04163.png.html)

As stated, I'm a fan. I ran it in my B5 (1.8) when we had it, it's in my B6 (1.8), as well as our C5 (2.7). I run Rotella T6 in everything, hell I even eat a teaspoon of it a day to stay regular and ease joint pain. [up]

Seriously though... upon switching to it, both my 1.8t and my 2.7t got quieter (for certain) and seemed to run smoother (possibly a placebo)

Not going to bag on any of the foreign or boutique oils, but don't overlook whats on your local shelves... some of it's very good stuff. [:)]

[Seerlah]

Used to run nothing but Amsoil. Switched to Rotella T6 and happy with the money I'm saving. An Amsoil dealer on here even says he runs the Shell Rotella T6 over Amsoil. Must say something.

[ianwpb]

T6 here. Most of my friends are mobil 1 fanboys. I think it's just because they've seen the Mobil 1 logo in a magazine and really no other reason. Just a brand recognition thing. I used to run castrol syntec. Switched to T6 and the engine definitely runs quieter. I have 034 motor and snub mounts so I definitely feel the engine, and after an oil change it seems like it runs smoother.

[jvega21]

ran mobil 0-40, 5-30 then switched T6., saved money and engine runs much quieter.

[Mark916]

My local Wal-Mart had the Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40W for $22, grabbed the remaining one on the shelf. Check your local Wal-Marts http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0W-40-Advanced-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/23636902

[SN95Audi87]

LMAO. Rotella T6 for joint pain ahahahaa. MAN where can I get some Rotella T6, seems like this thread got ran over by it.....you guys are not even talking about Motul haha. Anyways, one thing thats a pain in the ass about Amsoil is you have to order it or go to a dealer who "might" have it in stock. I love there 5w40 Euro formula, that oil can take a serious beating in the summer. The temps do not even crack over 210 degrees during the day, and even cooler at night. Now im feening to try Rotella T6, but where the hell can you buy it? Shell gas station?

Those VW guys swear by Motul! Too Eerie B6, can you break down your oil analysis for us so we can understand what we are looking at? The report looks nice but I want to understand it, I never sent out an oil analysis maybe I should.

I think the reason why most of us go for Mobil 1 0w40 is because its so available you can pick it up at walmart or autozone. I wish Amsoil or Rotella was the same. I like Mobil 1 and there filters but I dont want to run it in the summer, the motor will pound it into mud.

[ianwpb]

Walmart has rotella T6

[EErie B6]

Walmart, Autozone, Advanced Auto, truck stops... all those places. Looks like this:
http://www.stiblog.com/images/motor/oil/rotella.JPG

Report Explanations can be found here, click "gas/diesel" then just mouse over what you want to learn about:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php

The comments section is pretty nice as each one is hand written for each client. Even if you don't know what you are looking at, they will mention any issues.

The gray columns show averages or safe ranges to give you an idea where you stand.

Problem numbers they automatically BOLD for you... so that's nice too.

Down in properties:
Viscosity can show problems with shear (as well as other things)
Flashpoint can show fuel (solvent) dilution
TBN [total base number] is an extra $10 and simply put shows the amount of life left in the oil. It is different for every make/model of oil, but on T6 it starts out around "12.0" and works its way down from there. once it gets down to "1.0" it's done and Blackstone considers it no good. You can use that number to try and extend oil change intervals (so long as all the numbers above check out ok), or as a red flag to decrease them.

I paid for the TBN in the sample above because I knew that oil had been worked pretty hard and I wanted to see if I had killed it or not.

[Artiemas]

I cannot, for the life of me, find somewhere close to me that sells T6. I have to special order it through walmart, and they only have the 1 gallon jugs. I run a 30v, and I just want the gallon +1 quart.

[Detroitfire23]

I have been a Mobil syntetic fan for a long time, plus Costco has sales on cases periodically. I might just try the T6

[ianwpb]

I cannot, for the life of me, find somewhere close to me that sells T6. I have to special order it through walmart, and they only have the 1 gallon jugs. I run a 30v, and I just want the gallon +1 quart.

My Walmart sells quarts of t6. Check again maybe? The 30v uses 6 quarts anyway. You should just buy 3 gallons. That's good for 2 oil changes.

[Saskwatch]

I always have a plume of smoke at start up with mobile 1.

[ianwpb]

I would imagine the 246,000 miles you have has taken a toll on your piston rings. It's probably more of the issue than the Mobil 1 lol. Have you tried t6?

[Saskwatch]

when i run kendall 5w20 full syn i never get a plume of smoke at start up. going with t6 after I install a less worn out k03s.. (my third one)
had left over mobile one quarts around the shop last oil change, so I went with it, never again!!!

[Tanzimur]

im running mobil 1 full sythetic 5w-40 but i wanna go thicker in oil for say the rotella synthetic blend?? is that ok not to worry about blowing seals and what not

[Cgoon009]

I just made the switch from Mobile 1 to T6, so far im loving it, the car feels happier and the valve train noise is much less. As for factual data, I will send it out to Blackstone at 5k, but I have liked it so far.

[Tanzimur]

I just made the switch from Mobile 1 to T6, so far im loving it, the car feels happier and the valve train noise is much less. As for factual data, I will send it out to Blackstone at 5k, but I have liked it so far.

great to hear im doing the switch over to t6 after i get my parts and get the car ready to be on the road again!

[holywar0902]

Those running t6 in the 1.8t, are you using 5w30 or 40. I want to try it to see if it will quiet my valvetrain too. I've been using mobil and penzoil from 60k until now (93k) but no analysis so I can't say for sure that I've "been using it with no problems".

[GrapeBandit]

I dont use any of those(not saying theres anything wrong with any of those though), ill reveal later what I switched t, why, and the results. I used to run mob1 15-50 on my 2.0 built gt35r car. ran it for 35k miles and all the bearings were just as new and unworn as the day I built the engine. even sold the pauter rods to a vw guy who builds engines all the time, left the bearings in them, and he said thanks for the new bearings lolz
but I have a question for all you guys, whats your oilchange intervals and what filter? anything less than the BIG MANN filter is uncivilized! [evilsmile]

[dcsantos]

I went with amsoil European formula and only lasted in my engine for like 3 days until I had to replace my cylinder head so basically wasted $75 of oil. I spoke to Seerlah and he told me the samething he posted on here. Hearing that an amsoil dealer uses shell rotella over his own product is pretty compelling. Right now castrol syntec is what I'm running. I also recently bought 2 gallons of shell rottella from Walmart can't wait to see if there's a difference. But at that price and how great reviews I hear from it looks like shell is the way to go!

[coolgraymemo]

Previous owner ran German Castrol (0W-30) in my car since new.

I ran GC for the first 30,000 miles. Recently switched over to T6. No ill effects.

Only difference I've noticed is that the oil runs a little hotter than before.

[Roadtrippn]

Been running the Mobile 1 5w-40, I'm at 103k and due for a change. I'm gonna try the t6 (assuming walmart has it)

[Cgoon009]

I dont use any of those(not saying theres anything wrong with any of those though), ill reveal later what I switched t, why, and the results. I used to run mob1 15-50 on my 2.0 built gt35r car. ran it for 35k miles and all the bearings were just as new and unworn as the day I built the engine. even sold the pauter rods to a vw guy who builds engines all the time, left the bearings in them, and he said thanks for the new bearings lolz
but I have a question for all you guys, whats your oilchange intervals and what filter? anything less than the BIG MANN filter is uncivilized! [evilsmile]

Mann filter, T6 5w-40, changed every 5K. Just started the T6, before that Mobil One, still every 5K

[Cgoon009]

Previous owner ran German Castrol (0W-30) in my car since new.

I ran GC for the first 30,000 miles. Recently switched over to T6. No ill effects.

Only difference I've noticed is that the oil runs a little hotter than before.

^ This, FNK did some maths and found that 5w-40 ran hotter, but 5w-30 ran cooler, but with less viscosity, basically equaling out to the same. His thread is some where around here, I will try and find it.

[Saskwatch]

I use a k&n oil filter and change every 3-5k

[EErie B6]

For oil filters I will run either WIX or MANN both are very well made.

MANN p/n W940/25
WIX p/n 51191

Many people seem to like and run the Mobil1 & K&N oil filters (as well as a few others) but I avoid them. I avoid such filters because most are actually made for the small block Ford (351/302/5.0L Windsor). Don't believe me? try cross referencing them. (or look up an oil filter for a 1990 Ford Mustang 5.0L) The can size is ok, the thread size/pitch is correct, but the bypass spring inside is wrong. The bypass spring setting on the Ford filter is typically 8-10psi. Spec for the 1.8t filter is right around 2bar or 28-30psi. Three companies that I know for sure have a proper 1.8t filter are MANN, WIX, and Purolator (Purolator only in their base model, not the PureONE). There may be several more, those three quickly came to mind.

If you are suspicious as to whether your filter of choice is truly meant for a 1.8t, see what that particular company offers for a SB Ford fitment. If the part numbers are the same, avoid said filter.

[Saskwatch]

i also stop by planned parenthood and make sure to grab a pureed fetus and add it to my oil every change....

[miro01]

Previous owner took it to a place that put in Total Quartz. Running T6 5-40 on my 1.8T since I've owned it. I can add to what coolgraynemo said about the oil running hotter.

[DeltaAlpha9]

I run Amsoil European 5w40. So far no real issues other than a lot of caked on oil in the valve covers. Actually I can't really say it's the oils fault because I don't know what's causing it.

[SN95Audi87]

I dont use any of those(not saying theres anything wrong with any of those though), ill reveal later what I switched t, why, and the results. I used to run mob1 15-50 on my 2.0 built gt35r car. ran it for 35k miles and all the bearings were just as new and unworn as the day I built the engine. even sold the pauter rods to a vw guy who builds engines all the time, left the bearings in them, and he said thanks for the new bearings lolz
but I have a question for all you guys, whats your oilchange intervals and what filter? anything less than the BIG MANN filter is uncivilized! [evilsmile]

Man. I've been running the Mobil 1 filters for last 5-10k miles I think I might go back to man from what Eerie B6 said, scary!


For oil filters I will run either WIX or MANN both are very well made.

MANN p/n W940/25
WIX p/n 51191

Many people seem to like and run the Mobil1 & K&N oil filters (as well as a few others) but I avoid them. I avoid such filters because most are actually made for the small block Ford (351/302/5.0L Windsor). Don't believe me? try cross referencing them. (or look up an oil filter for a 1990 Ford Mustang 5.0L) The can size is ok, the thread size/pitch is correct, but the bypass spring inside is wrong. The bypass spring setting on the Ford filter is typically 8-10psi. Spec for the 1.8t filter is right around 2bar or 28-30psi. Three companies that I know for sure have a proper 1.8t filter are MANN, WIX, and Purolator (Purolator only in their base model, not the PureONE). There may be several more, those three quickly came to mind.

If you are suspicious as to whether your filter of choice is truly meant for a 1.8t, see what that particular company offers for a SB Ford fitment. If the part numbers are the same, avoid said filter.

You learn something new everyday! I really need to try Rotella T6 out if its giving Amsoil Euro formula a run for its money. I ran Amsoil for a long time always did justice in my car, mobil 1 was good to but thats because internals are probably squeaky clean never ran synthetic for more than 4k+ but who knows I might be wasting my money. I never got an oil analysis...anyways I own a mustang a weekend driver and I never knew that about the filters!


I run Amsoil European 5w40. So far no real issues other than a lot of caked on oil in the valve covers. Actually I can't really say it's the oils fault because I don't know what's causing it.

Amsoil is really good, never heard about it sludging up the engine.

[mykeg6]

For oil filters I will run either WIX or MANN both are very well made.

MANN p/n W940/25
WIX p/n 51191

Many people seem to like and run the Mobil1 & K&N oil filters (as well as a few others) but I avoid them. I avoid such filters because most are actually made for the small block Ford (351/302/5.0L Windsor). Don't believe me? try cross referencing them. (or look up an oil filter for a 1990 Ford Mustang 5.0L) The can size is ok, the thread size/pitch is correct, but the bypass spring inside is wrong. The bypass spring setting on the Ford filter is typically 8-10psi. Spec for the 1.8t filter is right around 2bar or 28-30psi. Three companies that I know for sure have a proper 1.8t filter are MANN, WIX, and Purolator (Purolator only in their base model, not the PureONE). There may be several more, those three quickly came to mind.

If you are suspicious as to whether your filter of choice is truly meant for a 1.8t, see what that particular company offers for a SB Ford fitment. If the part numbers are the same, avoid said filter.

Anything wrong about the big Bosch or Mahle big oil filters?

Aren't these at par with the Mann filter?

[1986nate]

Rotella T6. I will stand by it and nothing else. I tow with my 1.8t and have seen oil temps well above 250 degrees. This is going up 8-10% grades for anywhere from 5-10 mile ascents towing ~4500 lbs. 250k miles on the car, I've been using Rotella since I owned it at 200k. And always the Mann filter.
I really love the Rotella for the fact it comes in a gallon jug which is exactly the capacity. No need to measure or check the oil level. Always at the top line when I change it at 3500-5000 miles depending on how tough of driving I've been doing.

[EErie B6]

i also stop by planned parenthood and make sure to grab a pureed fetus and add it to my oil every change....

LOL. I'm sorry, I was not trying to single you out. The filters topic came up, and you just happened to remind me of something I thought was important to touch on. The bypass valve controls when and how long your motor gets unfiltered oil running through it. I would prefer to keep that to a minimum personally... I think you most others would as well, so I tried to explain why you might not want to use them.


Anything wrong about the big Bosch or Mahle big oil filters?

Aren't these at par with the Mann filter?

I'm no expert, so don't take my words too seriously, I just know what brands of filters I have cut apart, or have seen cut apart ...and the specs I read about them from the various manufacturers websites. I would expect the Mahle to be as good as the Mann, I don't know about Bosch. If the p/n is the same "3500" that they use for the Ford, then I'd avoid it.

[Avant Nate]

T6 and big Mann filters. Just buy them in bulk through ECS or whatever, still cheaper than than Parts store filter. I noticed my temps running a little hot, I don't like it being over 225, but with AC on and some WOTS it ususally hangs around 205, at 20+ psi.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil_Filter/ES3953/

[zandrew]

In my wifes scion I run Syn blend Motorcraft. I know this does not make sense but if we run full synthetic it burns the shit out of oil.

My car the previous owner ran Mobil full syn and that is what I run currently.


I am looking for a good assembly lube as I plan on putting my motor together soon, I have used Royal Purple before and it is good but would rather use something known to be compatible. Also open to suggestions as to which oil to run there after.

[GrapeBandit]

for best info, you guys should check out bobistheoilguy.com

heres what i came up with. guys running the Amsoil, according to their site(if i can remember correctly), you can do the oil change intervals every 30k or a year, which ever comes first. yes, i said 30k lol
I now use Royal Purple 20-50. The reason being is that if you have a high mileage head with a some lifter noise, it really quiets that down, to almost nothing. Like i said earlier, i was using the mob1 15-50 with no problems, awesome oil, never burnt off, and all bearings were mint, no signs of any wear whatsoever, but i did have that lifter noise that bothered me. So thats the only reason i switched to the RP. Ive also heard that Amsoil is know to quiet the noise down like the RP i now use, but i have no personal experience with the Amsoil so i CANNOT confirm.

BIG MANN filter & oil changes every 5k-6k
Also, dark looking oil DOES NOT mean its no good & time for an oil change. Plenty of threads on bobistheoilguy confirm that with oil analysis sheets.

good luck with all your oil escapades guys[wrench]

[seanf86]

Big mann filters on both my b5 and b6 and I run GC 0W30 or T6 depending on whats on sale and 7000km intervals

[SN95Audi87]

for best info, you guys should check out bobistheoilguy.com

heres what i came up with. guys running the Amsoil, according to their site(if i can remember correctly), you can do the oil change intervals every 30k or a year, which ever comes first. yes, i said 30k lol
I now use Royal Purple 20-50. The reason being is that if you have a high mileage head with a some lifter noise, it really quiets that down, to almost nothing. Like i said earlier, i was using the mob1 15-50 with no problems, awesome oil, never burnt off, and all bearings were mint, no signs of any wear whatsoever, but i did have that lifter noise that bothered me. So thats the only reason i switched to the RP. Ive also heard that Amsoil is know to quiet the noise down like the RP i now use, but i have no personal experience with the Amsoil so i CANNOT confirm.

BIG MANN filter & oil changes every 5k-6k
Also, dark looking oil DOES NOT mean its no good & time for an oil change. Plenty of threads on bobistheoilguy confirm that with oil analysis sheets.

good luck with all your oil escapades guys[wrench]

Consensus says that is really a toss up with T6 and Amsoil Euro Forumula. I think the one of the main reasons why its so popular along with how good it is because T6 is just available compared to ordering Amsoil. I can only speak for Amsoil since I've used it in my cars, that oil is like liquid gold in your engine, if your turbocharger is healthy it will love you for it. Amsoil also offers the the wix and mann filters in the product look up guide as well. I was checking BITOG forum and Amsoil stepped their game up offering to TWO kinds of Euro formula one is Full-SAPS, and Mid-SAPS. They are really going above in beyond for your german vehicle to be protected, and I love the data sheets.

What I am hearing in this thread is that T6 is really good heavy duty oil, I would just like to know whats in it since Amsoil shows everything on their website. Carry on guys good thread!

[Seerlah]

for best info, you guys should check out bobistheoilguy.com

heres what i came up with. guys running the Amsoil, according to their site(if i can remember correctly), you can do the oil change intervals every 30k or a year, which ever comes first. yes, i said 30k lol
I now use Royal Purple 20-50. The reason being is that if you have a high mileage head with a some lifter noise, it really quiets that down, to almost nothing. Like i said earlier, i was using the mob1 15-50 with no problems, awesome oil, never burnt off, and all bearings were mint, no signs of any wear whatsoever, but i did have that lifter noise that bothered me. So thats the only reason i switched to the RP. Ive also heard that Amsoil is know to quiet the noise down like the RP i now use, but i have no personal experience with the Amsoil so i CANNOT confirm.

BIG MANN filter & oil changes every 5k-6k
Also, dark looking oil DOES NOT mean its no good & time for an oil change. Plenty of threads on bobistheoilguy confirm that with oil analysis sheets.

good luck with all your oil escapades guys[wrench]

This is only for unmodified vehicles. It states it right on their site. I have been a long time Amsoil fan, but it was just getting too pricey for me. Still run Amsoil tranny fluid, rear diff fluid, and going to swap in their power steering fluid (have already). Great all around motor oil, but it does not come cheap.

This is under the description for the Signature Series 0w30, which I used to run ever winter. But the 5w30 Signature Series has the same interval numbers. Other oils will have different service intervals. For example, all the Euro blends say to go by the vehicle manufacturer spec.


SERVICE LIFE
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline-fueled vehicles as follows:

Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
In all non-gasoline-fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.



I am looking for a good assembly lube as I plan on putting my motor together soon, I have used Royal Purple before and it is good but would rather use something known to be compatible. Also open to suggestions as to which oil to run there after.

Once again, I'm a big Amsoil fan. I used Amsoil engine assembly lube when I built my engine, but had to toss their break in oil when I flooded the cylinders (glad I did because I could easily smell it in the oil after draining it). Went with cheapo Lucas break in oil after that...because I'm cheap.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/break-in-oil-(sae-30)/

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/engine-assembly-lube/

[GrapeBandit]

^yes, you are correct about the unmodified vehicles. but if your oil temps are in the same range as modified or not, I can't seeing it making any significant difference.

[Seerlah]

I would assume the CHRA wears down the oil quicker. Just taking a guess here. When it comes to oil temps, that really depends on how good of an oil cooling system you have. 10*F difference to me really isn't sh*t. I had my oil up to 250*F+ before (compromised piston rings which lead to engine build), so that little degree difference does not bother me much. haha

[GrapeBandit]

I would assume the CHRA wears down the oil quicker. Just taking a guess here. When it comes to oil temps, that really depends on how good of an oil cooling system you have.

yes again! not sure if a tiny k04/04 CHRA would get hotter than say an oil/water cooled 30r sized or bigger.we all know them little suckers work hard and fast! also, if you have an oiless Comp Turbo, you wouldnt have to worry about that. many factors to take into consideration, to many variables to just make general statements of any sort(this was not aimed @you per say, just the oil companies with their claims)

[zandrew]

Seerlah- It depends on the turbo and bearing setup. Garrett BB turbos have such a small inlet design that very little of the engine oil actually flows through it. This is why you have to use a restrictor with them. If you don't the supply actually overwhelms the bearing design to allow it to drain and will work out the seals. With the way the BB design works it needs the internal oil pressure to coat the bearings correctly. If you have ever fealt a BB turbo thrust play you will know what I mean. They actually have more thrust play tolerance then a journal bearing since you have to have the pressure internally to diminish the thrust play. Literally once they are pressurized correctly the thrust play is almost zero due to its design.

Its why you see a lot of blown oil seals in the bb turbos. I have also seen a lot of threads started about thrust play on new BB turbos since the members were more accustomed to journal bearing turbos (K04 has hydro bearing design which is actually different).

With Journal bearing turbos the more the flow the better since you need it to cool the parts down. You just have to make sure the oil return can handle whatever you are flowing into it.

Turbos do the most damage when they are shut off hot, I'm sure this is well known though. [:p]

I have an oil less cartridge He He.

[DeltaAlpha9]

Does anyone know what the difference between the full SAPS vs the mid SAPS? I noticed a price point difference when I was last shopping on Amsoil's website and I think there is a different label colour as well. Also not really sure if it makes a difference in the old AHA.

[GrapeBandit]

Does anyone know what the difference between the full SAPS vs the mid SAPS? I noticed a price point difference when I was last shopping on Amsoil's website and I think there is a different label colour as well. Also not really sure if it makes a difference in the old AHA.

Its PPM in the oil itself
Sulfated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulfer.

[jvega21]

Anyone ever run a single weight oil? I've been thinking about using a single weight "racing" oil just because of the extra additives, not too worried about the oil getting too cold, seeing as its 100 degrees before noon and only drops to about 75 degrees at night. Arizona is a mother******.
any input is appreciated

[EErie B6]

^ racing oils are usually a bad idea in a daily driver or street motor. The extra anti wear additives come at the expense of detergents. The detergents are what keeps deposits (ie sludge) at bay. They are just not meant to be run at long intervals like a street oil.

[coolgraymemo]

Walked into Autozone to buy Rotella T6. As I'm paying, the clerk says, "...But this is diesel oil. Are you going to use it in a gas car?" I says to him, "Yea..."

He just gave me this blank stare.

[Cgoon009]

^ ha

[1986nate]

BTW, you can get a 6 pack of gallon Rotella T6 at Sam's club for about $75. And I get my filters through our part supplier at $5 a pop for MANN big filters. ~$17 for an oil change with full synthetic is pretty awesome if you ask me! :D

Also, in addition to the towing I do with mine, I also beat the hell out of it offroad whenever I get the chance, including having over 2 quarts of water in the oil pan when I hydro-locked it. (full gallon of water out of the intercooler piping) 36k miles later, still the same engine and no noises. I replaced the turbo about 15k miles ago because I had literally baked the wastegate flap so it wasn't sealing as well as putting 2 large cracks. Compressor still had zero shaft play at 235k miles. I've had oil temps spike close to 275* about 4 times. Because of all of these factors, It's what I put in everything I own and suggest to everyone. (I used to be a big amsoil guy or otherwise had no preference)

[ianwpb]

Walked into Autozone to buy Rotella T6. As I'm paying, the clerk says, "...But this is diesel oil. Are you going to use it in a gas car?" I says to him, "Yea..."

He just gave me this blank stare.

Lol.. Happens all the time. People are such idiots.

[SN95Audi87]

I got to do an oil change soon. My winter/spring 0w40 M1 oil is getting destroyed by this heavy heat. I dont mind the heat, but I mind it beating up the car on trips lasting longer than an hour. I'm starting to see the temps go up to 230+ range, I know its not bad but I love when the guage doesn't even crack 210 on a fresh change and the turbo is spooling.

[coolgraymemo]

Lol.. Happens all the time. People are such idiots.

It looked like he was thinking of a smart reason to tell me why it's not a good idea, but came up empty handed.

[EErie B6]

It looked like he was thinking of a smart reason to tell me why it's not a good idea, but came up empty handed.

Lol. If he had a point to make is that T6 can be hard on your cat if your car is an oil burner... Other than that nothing.

I had a parts store guy once tell me that i could not run Bosch plugs in a SB Ford. I bought them anyways, installed them and if the car was upset, it never told me so.

[Scientist]

Shell T6 for the first time and Mann Filter.

[GrapeBandit]

Lol. If he had a point to make is that T6 can be hard on your cat if your car is an oil burner.

most of us(including myself) would probably say "sorry sir, I dont have a cat!" lol

[Detroitfire23]

Just wondering the best place to pick up the Mann oil filters?

[GrapeBandit]

http://www.europaparts.com/oil-filter-068115561b.html
I use eurpoaparts. great place to deal with.

[Mad Cow]

Just wondering the best place to pick up the Mann oil filters?

Every parts store I've been to stocks them, you just have to ask for Mann specifically or else they'll give you some other crap like Fram.

[Scientist]

http://www.europaparts.com/oil-filter-068115561b.html
I use eurpoaparts. great place to deal with.

What's the shipping?

[ianwpb]

What's the shipping?

Depends on where you live... Check it on the website. For me it would be 11.

[Detroitfire23]

http://www.europaparts.com/oil-filter-068115561b.html
I use eurpoaparts. great place to deal with.

I just ordered a couple, thank u.

[coolgraymemo]

You can also get them from RockAuto.

I buy mine from the dealership (hate waiting for shipping). They're ~ $8.

[SN95Audi87]

I got lazy and ordered the new Mid-SAPS Euro formula from AMSoil. I didn't feel like going on the search on for T6 but next time try it out. I am going to go to dealership next time and see how much a mann filter cost.

[Tanzimur]

Shell T6 for the first time and Mann Filter.

hows it feeling?? im due for one just got my audi back in one piece lol

[zandrew]

Has anyone used Lucas oil additive as an assembly lube? I use it in my wifes scion cause it burns oil like crazy and noticed it says its good for an assembly lube but I am doubtful since the stuff is like honey.

[GrapeBandit]

[
I just ordered a couple, thank u.

no problem!!

What's the shipping?
not sure, I pick mine up in person, tbey are like 20mins away from me[cool]

[arjun90]

Going to try Motul, Mobil-1 0W-40 didn't last long as I wanted, and that too, mostly highway driving, but lots of rush hour traffic idling.

[Avant Nate]

http://i.qkme.me/3s0tgs.jpg

[Seerlah]

http://bbsimg.ngfiles.com/1/21883000/ngbbs4cabf60cb38c4.jpg

[arjun90]

Haha,
I'd keep the same viscosity, especially on an older engine like mine. Instead of Mobil's 0W-40, I'd go with Motul's Specific 5W-40. Not much of a difference apart from cold temps.
Some of us have preferences, especially for oil specifically Made in Germany.

The car I own used 5W-30 in its early days, particularly Castrol Edge (Conventional Oil). Later, I felt the need to go with Mobil-1, pretty darn cheap at a local Walmart. I have second thoughts now, but the temperatures here in New York fluctuate throughout the year.