PTAudi
05-05-2013, 01:57 PM
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Car38.JPG
Hello Audizine, like the title states, I just did a major overhaul on my 02 B6 A4 and converted from CVT to manual and what a difference, until something happened that caused the car to lean out and damaged the motor.
I need some help from my fellow Audizine friends in diagnosing and pin pointing the “root” of the problem because 1 or 2 of my pistons are damaged and currently in the process of rebuilding the motor again and don’t want this unfortunate situation to happen again.
I will try to give a detail overview of what was done in my build and the event that took place leading to the damage of my motor.
After the motor was completed and transmission was swapped to manual, the car was properly broken into with the correct oils and had driven the car about 200 miles on synthetic regular oil before making the long trip from SoCal to NorCal. Car drove great and smooth on the way up! 200 miles into the drive, temperature was around 85 degrees and I stopped somewhere and headed back onto the high way and got hit full boost in second and half way through 3rd and that’s when it happened….
Damaged 1 piston
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Damaged_Piston.JPG
Questionable Damaged secondary piston next to it.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Secondary_piston_Questionable_.JPG
Other 2 pistons seems to be fine.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Ok_Pistons.JPG
Valves on damaged main cylinder and secondary cylinder next to it.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Damaged_Valves_.JPG
Car started smoking, lost power, and misfiring and I pulled over…
There was small amounts of oil around the turbo and oil line and crank case gas (smoke) coming out of the PCV (black pancake valves). Long story short I had to get the car back to SoCal.
Trying to diagnose with the engine builder and had to pull off the head and noticed that 1 piston had a major hole or melted on one side and the secondary piston next to it is questionable? Other 2 cylinders appeared to be okay. Spark plugs showed signs of detonation, and valves had evidence as well on those 2 cylinders.
For obvious reasons for this damage it had to do with something with leaning out or a major boost spike to cause such high heat to damage the pistons. We checked the coil pack wiring harness and it is questionable with normal wear. Injector wires and clips had exposed wires but were covered with rubber jacket, MAF sensor clip was broken but was connected, MAF obviously was not working properly due to so much oil in the intercooler and TIP. Turbo seems to be OKAY but need to be inspected again, but appears to be good, there was no fault codes prior to the drive up there, just transmission codes because ECU was still thinking I was CVT because coding was not completed before the drive, but drove fine just ABS & Brake light on, REVO TUNE was left the same after the build due to same turbo and injectors thinking should be fine and boost was level was left the same.
We left the Stock PCV Emissions the same for drivability purposes and I am not sure if this would restrict back pressure to the crank case? We noticed that there were 2 PCV valve (black pancake) looking valves which now I am finding out that I should only have 1 but for some reason I had 2, one near the “Y” hose at the top of the valve cover/fire wall and another near the TIP. Would this cause crank case evacuation/restrictions to cause the car to lean out?
At this point I am at a lost and in desperate need to find the “root of the problem” because after the motor is rebuilt again, it is highly likely this will happen again.
Any suggestions or diagnostic would be greatly appreciated guys!
Mods Prior to the Build:
Prior to the build, my car had 185,000 miles on the odometer running on a stock 1.8L motor, CVT, BT-GTRS Eliminator kit, with a CVT Revo software. Basically, I had every mod possible done with this set up being as aggressive as I can on CVT transmission. To Labree high flow cat and full nuespeed exhaust, upgraded 550 Genesis injectors, ATP log manifold, upgraded coil packs, AFE drop in filter, Samco TIP, ER Comp intercooler, Bosh upgraded 44 fuel pump and again, REVO flash software and I believe set at #7 for boost which boosted around 22lb to 24lb at peak.
Current Motor Build Upgrades:
BLOCK
2.0L Stroker Engine.
Used 2.0L FSI Crank
144x20mm IE rods W Rifle drilling, Mahle Stroker
Piston set (83mm, 9.0CR), Cailco Main, and Rod
Bearings, ARP Crank Studs, OEM 1.8T Oil pump Gear.
ARP Crank Bolt
IE Timing Gear Dowel Pin
1.8T Fluid dampr Pulley
Rear Main Seal
Front Crankshaft Seal
White Sealant for Oil Pan
Oil Pump
Oil Pump Chain Guide
Oil Pump Pick Up Screen
J-Plug for Coolant.
HEAD
Fully Built Head NONE BIG PORT
Supertech Spring/Titanium Retainer,
Intake Valves Single Groove+1mm, Exhaust Inconel
Valves Single Groove+1mm
OEM Cam Chain Tensioner
Camshaft seals
Cam Chain Tensioner Seal
Valve Cover Gasket
Cam Chain
ARP Head Studs (No Tool, 10mm)
ARP Cam Gear Bolt
OEM Head Gasket
OEM Valve Stem Seals
OEM CAM Gear
Integrated Engineering K03 Bolt Locking Plate
Other Items:
ARP Heavy Duty Audi Flywheel Bolt
Complete OEM 1.8T AMB Timing Belt Kit W Gates
Belt And OEM Factory Water Pump
Motul Break-In Engine Oil 10w40 (946ml/1 Qt.)
Motul 8100 5w40 X-Cess Synthetic Engine Oil
1.8T Oil Filter Mahle (big)
OEM Thermostat W Seal
B6 A4 Coolant Bottle
B6 AMB Coolant Flange W Seal, and Green Coolant
Temp Sensor
034 Motorsports complete PCV silicone system with
Metal check Valve, EGR (SAI), inlet PCV elbow,
L-Hose,
Again,
Any suggestions or things to check or replace would be greatly appreciated guys!
[:|]
Hello Audizine, like the title states, I just did a major overhaul on my 02 B6 A4 and converted from CVT to manual and what a difference, until something happened that caused the car to lean out and damaged the motor.
I need some help from my fellow Audizine friends in diagnosing and pin pointing the “root” of the problem because 1 or 2 of my pistons are damaged and currently in the process of rebuilding the motor again and don’t want this unfortunate situation to happen again.
I will try to give a detail overview of what was done in my build and the event that took place leading to the damage of my motor.
After the motor was completed and transmission was swapped to manual, the car was properly broken into with the correct oils and had driven the car about 200 miles on synthetic regular oil before making the long trip from SoCal to NorCal. Car drove great and smooth on the way up! 200 miles into the drive, temperature was around 85 degrees and I stopped somewhere and headed back onto the high way and got hit full boost in second and half way through 3rd and that’s when it happened….
Damaged 1 piston
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Damaged_Piston.JPG
Questionable Damaged secondary piston next to it.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Secondary_piston_Questionable_.JPG
Other 2 pistons seems to be fine.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Ok_Pistons.JPG
Valves on damaged main cylinder and secondary cylinder next to it.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Damaged_Valves_.JPG
Car started smoking, lost power, and misfiring and I pulled over…
There was small amounts of oil around the turbo and oil line and crank case gas (smoke) coming out of the PCV (black pancake valves). Long story short I had to get the car back to SoCal.
Trying to diagnose with the engine builder and had to pull off the head and noticed that 1 piston had a major hole or melted on one side and the secondary piston next to it is questionable? Other 2 cylinders appeared to be okay. Spark plugs showed signs of detonation, and valves had evidence as well on those 2 cylinders.
For obvious reasons for this damage it had to do with something with leaning out or a major boost spike to cause such high heat to damage the pistons. We checked the coil pack wiring harness and it is questionable with normal wear. Injector wires and clips had exposed wires but were covered with rubber jacket, MAF sensor clip was broken but was connected, MAF obviously was not working properly due to so much oil in the intercooler and TIP. Turbo seems to be OKAY but need to be inspected again, but appears to be good, there was no fault codes prior to the drive up there, just transmission codes because ECU was still thinking I was CVT because coding was not completed before the drive, but drove fine just ABS & Brake light on, REVO TUNE was left the same after the build due to same turbo and injectors thinking should be fine and boost was level was left the same.
We left the Stock PCV Emissions the same for drivability purposes and I am not sure if this would restrict back pressure to the crank case? We noticed that there were 2 PCV valve (black pancake) looking valves which now I am finding out that I should only have 1 but for some reason I had 2, one near the “Y” hose at the top of the valve cover/fire wall and another near the TIP. Would this cause crank case evacuation/restrictions to cause the car to lean out?
At this point I am at a lost and in desperate need to find the “root of the problem” because after the motor is rebuilt again, it is highly likely this will happen again.
Any suggestions or diagnostic would be greatly appreciated guys!
Mods Prior to the Build:
Prior to the build, my car had 185,000 miles on the odometer running on a stock 1.8L motor, CVT, BT-GTRS Eliminator kit, with a CVT Revo software. Basically, I had every mod possible done with this set up being as aggressive as I can on CVT transmission. To Labree high flow cat and full nuespeed exhaust, upgraded 550 Genesis injectors, ATP log manifold, upgraded coil packs, AFE drop in filter, Samco TIP, ER Comp intercooler, Bosh upgraded 44 fuel pump and again, REVO flash software and I believe set at #7 for boost which boosted around 22lb to 24lb at peak.
Current Motor Build Upgrades:
BLOCK
2.0L Stroker Engine.
Used 2.0L FSI Crank
144x20mm IE rods W Rifle drilling, Mahle Stroker
Piston set (83mm, 9.0CR), Cailco Main, and Rod
Bearings, ARP Crank Studs, OEM 1.8T Oil pump Gear.
ARP Crank Bolt
IE Timing Gear Dowel Pin
1.8T Fluid dampr Pulley
Rear Main Seal
Front Crankshaft Seal
White Sealant for Oil Pan
Oil Pump
Oil Pump Chain Guide
Oil Pump Pick Up Screen
J-Plug for Coolant.
HEAD
Fully Built Head NONE BIG PORT
Supertech Spring/Titanium Retainer,
Intake Valves Single Groove+1mm, Exhaust Inconel
Valves Single Groove+1mm
OEM Cam Chain Tensioner
Camshaft seals
Cam Chain Tensioner Seal
Valve Cover Gasket
Cam Chain
ARP Head Studs (No Tool, 10mm)
ARP Cam Gear Bolt
OEM Head Gasket
OEM Valve Stem Seals
OEM CAM Gear
Integrated Engineering K03 Bolt Locking Plate
Other Items:
ARP Heavy Duty Audi Flywheel Bolt
Complete OEM 1.8T AMB Timing Belt Kit W Gates
Belt And OEM Factory Water Pump
Motul Break-In Engine Oil 10w40 (946ml/1 Qt.)
Motul 8100 5w40 X-Cess Synthetic Engine Oil
1.8T Oil Filter Mahle (big)
OEM Thermostat W Seal
B6 A4 Coolant Bottle
B6 AMB Coolant Flange W Seal, and Green Coolant
Temp Sensor
034 Motorsports complete PCV silicone system with
Metal check Valve, EGR (SAI), inlet PCV elbow,
L-Hose,
Again,
Any suggestions or things to check or replace would be greatly appreciated guys!
[:|]