Just Bought Maestro, Wow this confuses me... [Archive]

zandrew

03-09-2013, 10:06 PM

First I want to say that I have researched the SHIT out of this setup and it seems like the way to go for what I am trying to accomplish. I have different stages of tunes I am going through and this would allow me to get the most out of each without having to buy expensive new tunes each time I upgraded.

I was hoping to have everything for my setup in advance of recieving the unit. I have spoke with RAI which is awesome and gave me excellent responses. They agreed this sounds like the way to go. I asked which MAF is needed and they did not have the number right off but remarked it is an early Audi A8 model. I try to look this MAF up and it seems there is 3 different models for it. I email eurodyne and they reply that the part number would be provided once I purchase the product. Kind of crappy if you ask me even after I explained what I was trying to do. Spoke with some other individuals about the product and they mention that you scale the MAF. Call RAI back about this and they reply that you can but why if you can get the correct part it is designed to work with. This makes sense.

So I ask another member if they will look and get me the part number. They do and it states you need 077 133 471 JX but this is not for the Audi A8 but a 2.5 TDi. WTF? Ask Eurodyne again and the same response which to say the least is starting to piss me off. I also run by them the issue I have with my OBD2 port asking if for whatever reason if I fry the cable (which is highly unlikely) if it is covered. They never directly answer me on this but state that it has never happened before so they doubt it will happen now.

So now that I have asked several times specific questions and none have been answered I am still interested in their product and buy it. I get it in and to say that I am disappointed is an understatement. You pay $800 for a small box about 6" x 4" x 2.5" with a cable, a small sticker, and dongle, and 2 pages of directions. I follow them and email them to get my user ID and password. I then download the Maestro programs hoping that I can finally get into the program and get the MAF number or some sort of positive identification on which I need and I can not open any of the programs. All that happens is says that some sort of error has occured and asks me to send a report. Unistall the software and reread the 2 pages of instructions (which are a joke to be honest) and still the same issues.

So now I have contacted Eurodyno hopefully for the last time with this:

I hope you issue refunds for your product. I have downloaded Maestro editor twice and it will not open (I followed the instructions listed specifically which are lacking to say the least). I was wanting to go in the program and locate what MAF is needed for my car since I have been told that I need an early Audi A8 (which has several different part numbers) and since I know someone with this package and they sent me a screen shot with the part number and it leads too a TDi. Also I have asked you several times for the part number and have never been given anything except that it would be given too me once I purchased the product.

I guess I am expecting a bit more customer service after spending $800 for a product. I will take my business to one of other people on the market that A) lists the hardware needed and B) has actually answered my questions without skirting around it. It is impossible to explain how dissappointed I am about a product that seems to have unlimited potential but is obviously limited by its lack of clear instructions or instructions at all.

If you are like me and expect to get what you pay for then maybe this is not the best route. It seems they have great product but the hassle and aggravation that has come along with it is not worth it when you can buy products from other places that have answered my SPECIFIC questions and not beat around bush with their cryptic replies. I am not saying to not purchase their product but I fealt it necessary to post my expierences with them.

I hope they refund me since I obviously CAN NOT use their product.

ddillenger

03-09-2013, 10:19 PM

www.nefmoto.com

Puts maestro to shame as far as function, but has a very steep learning curve.

zandrew

03-09-2013, 10:35 PM

Will Nefmoto work with the early AEB ECU setups or non drive by wire? I have 1999.

Also how much is this program? It looks like a forum but I don't see a product. Steep learning curb does not bother me too much. Has to better then the run around I have got from Eurodyne.

ddillenger

03-09-2013, 11:18 PM

It's free. The flashing software (also free) doesn't support m5.9.2 cars, but the tuning side of things is the same. There are a few members tuning your ecu. Take a look.

rockersteady

03-10-2013, 03:58 AM

That part number is correct, Its for a re-man V8 maf.
Did you buy maestro 7 from RAI? if so, they are your go to people for customer support, and if cant answer (or supply) the correct MAF I would be questioning that.
Post up any other queries you might have here, http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/443494-AEB-Maestro
theres a couple of users on the AEB there who would probably be happy to help, myself included. Chris Tapp is generally not one of them.

zandrew

03-10-2013, 05:52 AM

Rockersteady are you crazy??? I have spent countless hours looking up information about this product and what works with it and what does not. Go to any other company that sells a tune or whatever for our car and the information is clearly listed. I asked them 6 different times what MAF is needed. I asked the company that makes and sells this shit product. I got a run around list of answers and never have gotten any direct answer to anything. Why would I question RAI for anything that they have done. He has spent about 2 hours on the phone answering my questions. The only reason why I did not get the part number from them was that he was editing someones tune and could not close it to get the information or he would lose the work.

When you get this product you can see that every provision was made to squeeze every possible cent out of it. I did not get any list of instructions that had any level clarity to it. This is not toilet paper which is self explanatory. I can not get it to even open on my computer. Go back and look at the list of instructions and I doubt Eurodyne themself could get it to open. Now after I have asked them to refund me they have finally given me the part number I asked for 3 weeks ago only after buying the wrong part since they refused to give me the part number. All I got was a vague description of what I needed. I am sorry but their customer service is SHIT at best. I am sick of dealing with them and their profit maximized customer forgoten product. I want to take it outside and stop it into the payment or better yet wipe my ass on it and send it directly back to Eurodyne.

This is before even using it. Would you want to use after being treated like a dollar bill instead of a customer? My opinion of this product thus far is that they see money, not customers.

k0mpresd

03-10-2013, 06:34 AM

maestro is not shit. 90% of the problems with it are people not understanding what they just bought or how to use it.
you are not buying a tune for your car. you are buying the ability to tune your car yourself.

xdewaynex

03-10-2013, 06:50 AM

Crappy customer service is always a bad idea. I would first figure out why you cannot get the software to work. Maybe its bad download link, or error with your computer. I would figure that all out before I moved any further, then if you still think its crap, see about sending it back, or finding good help.

M-Hood

03-10-2013, 07:29 AM

Zandrew where in the world are you getting info from saying that 077 133 471 J is a TDI MAF? A simple google search of that part number brings up a ton of info that says it is for a V8.

This is just info from 1 site.

AUDIA6 (4B, C5)1997/01 -
A6 (4B, C5) 4.2 quattro ARS 4B,C5 4172 220 8 Saloon 98.11 - 05.01
A6 (4B, C5) S6 quattro AQJ 4B,C5 4172 250 8 Saloon 99.09 - 05.01
AUDIA6 (4F2)2004/05 -
A6 (4F2) 4.2 quattro BAT 4F2 4163 246 8 Saloon 04.05 -
A6 (4F2) 4.2 FSI quattro BVJ 4F2 4163 257 8 Saloon 06.06 -
AUDIA6 Allroad (4FH)2006/05
A6 Allroad (4FH) 4.2 FSI quattro BVJ 4FH 4163 257 8 Estate 06.05 -
AUDIA6 Avant (4B, C5)1997/12 -
A6 Avant (4B, C5) 4.2 quattro ASG 4B,C5 4172 220 8 Estate 98.11 - 05.01
A6 Avant (4B, C5) S6 quattro AQJ 4B,C5 4172 250 8 Estate 99.09 - 05.01
AUDIA6 Avant (4F5)2005/03 - /
A6 Avant (4F5) 4.2 quattro BAT 4F5 4163 246 8 Estate 05.03 -
A6 Avant (4F5) 4.2 FSI quattro BVJ 4F5 4163 257 8 Estate 06.06 -
AUDIA8 (4D2, 4D8)1994/03 - 2002/09
A8 (4D2, 4D8) 3.7 quattro AKC 4D2, 4D8 3697 191 8 Saloon 98.11 - 02.09
A8 (4D2, 4D8) 4.2 quattro AUX 4D2, 4D8 4172 228 8 Saloon 98.11 - 02.09
AUDIA8 (4E_)2002/10 -
A8 (4E_) 3.7 quattro BFL 4E_ 3697 206 8 Saloon 02.10 -
A8 (4E_) 4.2 quattro BFM 4E_ 4172 246 8 Saloon 02.10 -
A8 (4E_) 4.2 FSI quattro BVJ 4E_ 4163 257 8 Saloon 06.06 -
AUDIALLROAD (4BH)2000/05 -
ALLROAD (4BH) 4.2 V8 quattro BAS 4BH 4163 220 8 Estate 02.07 - 05.08

It seems you might need to tune your search engine too since it keeps giving you the wrong info. lol
Maybe by leaving the X on there it is confusing things since the X at the end just says it is a remanufactured part (aka new sensor old housing), while the numbers before it is the actual part number. There will also be a Bosch part number for it which is 0 280 218 069.

spindoctor

03-10-2013, 07:34 AM

I am sorry but their customer service is SHIT at best.

Thats old news, especially for us DBC(AEB engine) users. LOL

spindoctor

03-10-2013, 07:35 AM

mysman

03-10-2013, 09:07 AM

www.nefmoto.com

Puts maestro to shame as far as function, but has a very steep learning curve.

It is a very, very steep learning curve. One of you Nefmoto gurus should offer (market) OEM bins with organized, higher level instructions along with proper flashing cables, etc. Or is that not legal? Or perhaps you'd be flooded with people like, lol?

Mad Cow

03-10-2013, 09:14 AM

If you can't figure out Maestro, there's no way you'll figure out how to tune using the tools and methods on nefmoto. If you want help, how about actually posing the error it gave you? Chances are it's going to be a really simple problem because Maestro was meant to be the simplest, most foolproof way of tuning a Bosch ECU.

viceprp

03-10-2013, 10:06 AM

ME.5 + Boost Manager Plus. Problem solved.

dowsett6

03-10-2013, 11:57 AM

ddillenger

03-10-2013, 12:08 PM

It is a very, very steep learning curve. One of you Nefmoto gurus should offer (market) OEM bins with organized, higher level instructions along with proper flashing cables, etc. Or is that not legal? Or perhaps you'd be flooded with people like, lol?

A couple people did. Gonzo and J-fonz come to mind.

k0mpresd

03-10-2013, 12:22 PM

A couple people did. Gonzo and J-fonz come to mind.

they only provide tunes though. and a loaner clone mpps cable in the mail if you want to flash yourself. they dont tell you or teach you or provide you with any map packs to do it yourself.
honestly, if you have maestro and cant sort it for yourself, like others have said, you are in way over your head.

Don Supreme

03-10-2013, 12:36 PM

honestly, if you have maestro and cant sort it for yourself, like others have said, you are in way over your head.

+1

zandrew

03-10-2013, 01:02 PM

I have assembled and installed MegaSquirt from scratch and tuned my 1986 Toyota Corolla GTS to 222whp with a GT2560R at 12 psi. I am not an idiot. I am not saying that the product is shit, I am referring to their customer service and obvious lack of clear instructions. HELL instructions at all.

Dowsett- The PROGRAMS will not run on my computer. I can not open anything to look at anything. I have asked several times for the MAF just to get a run around. I also know it is there but my point in asking before I bought it was so I could be prepared. I ended up buying the wrong MAF in an attempt to be prepared because I could not get it from them which is absolutely stupid.

The other ting that really pisses me off is that you get 2 pages of instructions and on them it clearly states that it is designed to get your setup up and running smoothly and quickly. It has been anything BUT that. This is their reason why the program would not open:

You need the .NET framework installed and all windows updates need to be current in order to run the software, your problem is likely due to one of these things.

Hmmm..... Seems like that should be on the instructions.

MHood- Sometimes your posts really piss me off but I have finally come to realize its just in good fun (especially when the joke is on me). The part number I was given was from a screen shot. I called my local VW dealer and they told me it was from a TDi. I figured the mistake was in the lettering and bought 077 133 471 G since it is for the A8. I wonder how different the two of these are? This one has 3.25" inside diameter.

kompressed - DON supreme- How can I be in over my head? The shit does not work, it will not open, it will not doing anything except state that an error has occurred while opening the program and it must shut down. I read the requirements for the program and I have them. I read the instructions and followed them. It just does not work.

I honestly feel their customer service sucks because they don't know how to use it themself.

MooseWhip

03-10-2013, 01:27 PM

Did you try installing the .NET framework and updating windows?

zandrew

03-10-2013, 01:43 PM

Sure have and now I get a new error code.

With this software being free it would make sense to me to include a CDrom with the software needed pre loaded, as well as Maestro and the other Eurodyne programs. I am sure it is fine product. It should not be this hard to get to work. It does not seem like it actually is just poor installation instructions on their behalf.

MooseWhip

03-10-2013, 01:51 PM

Well whats the new error?

F16HTON

03-10-2013, 01:51 PM

Nobody really gives out CD-ROM with software any more, it is typically downloaded, most new computers do not even have a CD-ROM drive. Out of curiosity, how did the VW Parts Guy even get the information that the 077 133 471 J MAF was even for a TDI? This number does not even exist in the USA database for VW Parts. It is an Audi part only. Eurodyne is using this MAF now to avoid extensive wiring harness changes for the B5 chassis cars.

My recommendation is to remove all of the existing Eurodyne Software and the folders it is installed in, reboot update .net and windows, then reinstall.

I have installed the Maestro Tuning Suite on several (5) different laptops and have never had an issue.

zandrew

03-10-2013, 02:12 PM

No I am done dealing with this laugher of a product. None of these requirements are listed anywhere. I have now spent another 5 hours of my time trying to get a product to work that was supposed to directly out of the box. None of these requirements are listed anywhere and I have unistalled and reinstalled and updated for the last time. If I do anything else with this I will take it outside and beat it with a hammer. I am that sick of it.

New error is:

.NET framework Initialization error

Unable to find a version of runtime to run this application

I have uninstalled my old versions of Java and reinstalled the newest version of Runtime.

Its simply not working, not going to work, and absolute waste of $5 much less the $830 I spent.

I would like to figure out the issue so that if anyone else has issues and comes across this thread they can resolve them. As far as me using this product is concerned, not happening.

It was a VW Audi dealership I called. I gave them the part number and they pulled it since I was having mixed results searching for it.

k0mpresd

03-10-2013, 02:16 PM

how is your pc problem eurodyne's fault exactly? LOTS of software require other software to run properly. java, flash, .net, ect.
it more of less sounds like you need a bit more of a geeky friend to help sort this for you.

Seerlah

03-10-2013, 02:20 PM

IIRC there were a couple people who had issues installing the Eurodyne software. Came down to user error. Maybe one who experienced it may chime in. Not saying that you are doing anything wrong. Just saying it is a possibility.

M-Hood

03-10-2013, 02:42 PM

MHood- Sometimes your posts really piss me off but I have finally come to realize its just in good fun (especially when the joke is on me). The part number I was given was from a screen shot. I called my local VW dealer and they told me it was from a TDi. I figured the mistake was in the lettering and bought 077 133 471 G since it is for the A8. I wonder how different the two of these are? This one has 3.25" inside diameter.

Well I can't be serious all the time [:D]

zandrew

03-10-2013, 02:43 PM

kompressed- what makes you think it's my pc? I have all the necessary requirements that eurodyne said is needed. No other programs have issues. I have also downloaded installed uninstalled upgraded everything, the shit don't work. This is information that is needed prior to purchase. Not after. If you look at any program you but it states requirements specifically. Only now that it is not working am i finding out different. Little late don't you think?

k0mpresd

03-10-2013, 02:46 PM

kompressed- what makes you think it's my pc?

if it wasnt, then it wouldnt work for anyone.

Don Supreme

03-10-2013, 02:51 PM

Microsoft .NET framework is a fundamental bit of software that many programs depend on. It is not a part of the Eurodyne suite.

The framework itself may not be properly installed on your computer, which again has nothing to do with Eurodyne and everything to do with the state of your computer and its operating system.

On a side note, I don't doubt that Eurodyne's customer support is probably on the weak side. I have heard this complaint on several occasions. Regardless, it would seem that there are several hundred people running these tools without major issue.

There is an issue with your computer, fix it. Additionally, there are several different version of the .net framework. Please verify that you are running the most current version.

Eurodyne has no responsibility to provide you with technical support for an issue that has nothing to do with their product.

LINDW4LL

03-10-2013, 03:04 PM

Yeah, sounds like you're having computer issues. Not their fault, although its unfortunate that their customer service isn't helping.

Corrado_Guy

03-10-2013, 03:11 PM

I really sounds like the issue is with the computer, have you tried another one? For tuning I use a Windows XP laptop and for Maestro I simply downloaded their software and installed it and it worked right away. I checked my machine and it has .NET 2.0, 3.0, and 3.5 installed and no problems. When I built the machine it had no .NET installed and this was installed through the Maestro set-up so it should install all pre-requirements. I work in IT and .NET can have issues, clean out all .NET out and put it back in again and see if it connects. This link points to clean-up tool from Microsoft that works well for .NET... http://blogs.msdn.com/b/astebner/archive/2008/08/28/8904493.aspx Remove .NET and Maestro and put it back in and see if this corrects the issue. If you can't even connect then I would say the issue is with the software on your machine (.NET or Maestro) or the configuration of the USB ports.

Mad Cow

03-10-2013, 03:51 PM

The problem with the .NET framework is having the newest version isn't always enough, you need the correct version for whatever software you're installing. It's obviously a problem with your computer/installation, fix that and you should be fine.

zandrew

03-10-2013, 04:33 PM

I have tried to load this program on my desk top now 3 times. It is a lil older computer and is running windows Xp. Pulled out my 1 month old laptop and entered the secure sign in. For whatever reason everytime I sign in it asks me to update my account which I have done everytime and it will not save my info. I guess that is also a problem with my computer huh?

Anyway when I sign in with my laptop and update my account to move onto the page with the programs it will not allow me to advance to the next page. It basically says I can not access the page. Sooo that does not work either.

What else could be my COMPUTERS fault since it can't be Eurodyne?

Corrado_Guy

03-10-2013, 05:10 PM

zandrew

03-10-2013, 05:33 PM

People are trying to help you, why be an ass? It sounds like the problem is on the other side of the keyboard from the computer.

I am not being an ass. I am pointing out the obvious. I have followed Eurodyne's instructions to a T and the comments are that there is something wrong with what I am doing with my computer. How can that be when I am following the instructions provided by the company that sells it. It does not have anything to do with what I have done. It has to do with Eurodyne themself and the fact that their instructions are shit. From the first time I have contected them they have been this and it seems like others have had the same expierences. There are those that have been lucky and got through without a hitch. This has not been the case for me and the directions I have got have not come close to fixing anything.

Now I have went to the third different computer which is the oldest of the bunch and has not been updated since I can't remember. This has been the first time I have turned it on in 4 months and it basically has my music stored on it and AutoCAD. For whatever reason I can open Maestro on it and it loaded the drivers I needed. Seriously WTF? It still will not save my info and everytime I log into the secure site I have to re enter all my info. I also guess that if I open the base file I choose to use I can not return it? I am not going another step with it. It may allow me to open on my computer but who is to say that it will work wen I conect it too my car. Once I conect it I can not return it. Given the results up to this point I am not taking any more chances with it. I am returning it.

Now that I am past even given this product a try it acts like it wants to work. Lord only knows what other problems will occur and given the track record thus far with Eurodyne it just is not worth taking the chance of dumping my $$$ down the toilet.

NOTE: Eurodyne's requirements need to stipulate to use the oldest computer availible without any current updates instead of updating with whatever is current. I am confused how a program will need the newest version of software that has been developed at least 1 year later then the last time the software itself was updated....

LINDW4LL

03-10-2013, 08:12 PM

I understand you're frustrated, but I think you should just relax. Many people use Maestro with no issues. They may not have the best instructions but if you just tough it out and get it set up, I'm sure it will be worth it. Seems like you just want to complain instead of trying to fix it.

Poopie

03-10-2013, 09:32 PM

i ran into this issue running an older 32bit Xp on parallels on my mac. Once i got the service packs updates which included .net everything installed and worked perfectly. Try a clean install and get up to date on the service packs. The only thing you need to keep track of is the cable. The license encryption is stored on the cable. I have installed and reinstalled meastro on a few computers and never had a problem loading it up.

No one is forcing you yo use maestro. Sounds like you don't want to already so you might as well give up. people are here to help and you keep coming up with excuses and new reasons why you don't want it to work. Yes, they are a small company and chris does his best to personally answer emails even on weekends while running the shop. Have some patience and some positive thinking like "man, its gonna be fun to tinker with this." there is some leg work to be done, but it seems like the worst is behind you. Just try to enjoy the product.

zandrew

03-10-2013, 10:05 PM

I am not trying to complain. I have a shit ton of other things I can do with my time. The fact is that I researched the product and from what I have seen and given the fact that like most people my setup will evolve. This allows me to get the most out of each evolution.

Here are the facts. Nothing has gone right, PERIOD. Everything I have been asked to do to fix it has just caused new errors. I was asked to update to the newest software and that also caused MORE issues. I asked them about part numbers and the base tunes and they did not even get that info correct (he quoted a base tune that used 440 injectors and the VR6 MAF and its not there). The website will not save my profile information. I have bought wrong items since I was left to assume what was the correct items. They will not directly answer questions leaving me to assume yet more things. The program is compatible with the one computer that has not been upgraded since I can not remember. The instructions are JOKE.

Now the things that have actually went according to plan:

I don't see how the worse is behind me. I just now got it to open on my computer after spending countless hours trying to get it to just open. Whos to say there is not going to be a quagmire of new problems since that is all I have expierenced. Where do I turn once I have new problems? Eurodyne has not answered a single question in a fashion that has solved any of my issues and I only spent extra time doing the things they asked just to get no where.

I am dying to use this product. If it would work as advertised then it would be perfect. However up to this point it has done everything but what it has supposed to have done. I am looking for a single reason reason why I should keep it but I can't find it. Show me where you see anything that proves I am not going to keep expierencing what I have already. It is obvious Eurodyne can NOT answer any of my questions with any level of accuracy. The only thing that they have answered is that if I open the base file I can not return it.

If I seem livid about this its because I am. If you were me and have spent countless hours as I have just to get smacked in the face repeatedily I am sure you would be as well. I have yet to have yet to have any POSITIVE expierence.

The only thing positive has been the simple fact that the forum is offering to assist me. I live in BFE and no one on her can come by and help me diagnose anything.

I CANT EVEN RUN THE DIAGNOSTIC ON MY CAR WITH THIS AND THEN BE ABLE TO RETURN IT..

zandrew

03-10-2013, 10:36 PM

Unless RAI has pity on me I can't return it since I don't want to take a $120 loss. 15% restocking fee sucks.

Maybe I will get lucky since the website will not save my profile info.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 01:21 AM

Ok so lets just address the issues one by one. its just becoming a sob story and though people understand your frustration, they could really give two shits. we get it, you had a terrible experience so far. If you researched it, you would know support from eurodyne is lacking. they provide you with the basics to get you up and going and the tweaks are up to you. this seems to be an isolated issue so people are not going to have the answers for you.

1- you got the software installed. You got the maestro editor and the maestro flash? drivers installed for the power tap or whatever chris calls it?
2- Did you finally get the correct maf?
3- the software has encryption protection so they only open if the cable is connected. You cannot even browse the base file library without it connected. It does not have to be connected to the car.
4- have you gone far enough to do he initial ecu read so chris can send you the base file with the encryption? this is when the cable gets married to the ecu and you can't do any returns and you have to sell the ecu with the cable. you can also pay for license transfers from chris.

i didn't even get any instructions. there is a pretty solid thread on the vortex on how get started.

QuattroGinger

03-11-2013, 04:33 AM

no experience with this software myself. but just reading some of your errors you were getting. you said you reinstalled java, but what about framework? have you happened to have tried someone elses computer just to compare to? either way, hope you get it figured out.

Don Supreme

03-11-2013, 05:55 AM

NOTE: Eurodyne's requirements need to stipulate to use the oldest computer availible without any current updates instead of updating with whatever is current. I am confused how a program will need the newest version of software that has been developed at least 1 year later then the last time the software itself was updated....

Again, this has nothing to do with your computer's age... If you are running XP or newer than you should be fine..

This has everything to do with the health of your computer. If you consider LEARNING a waste of your time, then give up right now.

zandrew

03-11-2013, 06:34 AM

Again, this has nothing to do with your computer's age... If you are running XP or newer than you should be fine..

This has everything to do with the health of your computer. If you consider LEARNING a waste of your time, then give up right now.

Have you read anything I have posted? I have tried 3 different computers. Finally on the computer that has not been updated in 15 monthes (atleast) it decides to work. I spent over 5 hours yesterday trying to get it to work on the 2 nicer computers that was update to everything. The one computer I think I have had for about 1 month. Its my wifes and with minute exception of her checking her facebook account it has not been turned on. I have done every upgrade install unistall and update availible and nothing has worked. I use the computer that should not work by Eurodyne and everyone assertation and lo and behold, it works.

My complaints have nothing to do with the feedback I have got here. Its that it is obvious the product developed by Eurodyne and sold by them as well. However it does not seem like they know much about it.

It does not have to be connected to your car to work. The dongle and cable needs connected and yes I did that from the start.

My point is that now it is working what new issues am I going to have. Its obvious that whatever does come up I am not going to get a comprehensive answer from Eurodyne. When you buy a name brand product especially software you are not paying for the program itself as much as customer service. Its seriously lacking.

I have no problem doing what is necessary to get this to work. However it should not be this hard to get to work. It would also be nice if the question I have asked Eurodyne were actually answered CORRECTLY, which they have not.

In comparison to buying a kit ECU from Megasquirt and putting it together and installing it and tuning by myself this has already been more frustrating and I have just NOW got the first program open.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 07:21 AM

dude its a broken record. you've said it over and over again. like i said, we get it. MANY users have not has issues loading up the program. This is an isolated case that not many people have seen. If you think this is an issue, help chris to help you and maybe this info will be useful to someone else in the future. My XP partition on my laptop has NOTHING on it besides VCDS and the maestro software. Could be some kind of conflicting software preventing the software work as expected. Eurodyne is not microsoft or apple. This software was written and developed by one guy. Chris answers every technical email so i suspect not too many people in the shop can answer these questions. You got to help him help you. alright so lets get you fixed. only like 10 members here that actively post run maestro. so help from this forum is limited. Hit up the vortex if you need to.

what step of the process are you stuck on at the moment? can you run a diagnostic read on the car yet?

zandrew

03-11-2013, 09:08 AM

I am going to download the rest of the programs. Once I do that and switch my ECU out I will try and see if I can get it to work and read my ECU. If not I am done with it.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 10:35 AM

another minor issue, your registration to the eurodynes site has not affect on your licensing as long as you can get to the protected area to update to the newest files. The dates on the files never change, but hes constantly rolling updates. I thought i had to the most recent updates because of the dates listed, but it turns out that is not the case. When you open the software and it says to update, just go ahead and do it.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 10:41 AM

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4613781-Maestro-7-Tuning-FAQ-DIY-hard-data-and-advice-thread&highlight=maestro

if you haven't found it yet, the brightest peeps using maestro post up in the thread. Its a good read to see peoples approach to using maestro. Many are DBW and since you are set on a maf, it sound like you are tuning and AEB. Aaronamerica here is DBC and his car runs great...i think. he may have changed it up. Even though the base file for your setup is NOT listed in the library, it doesn't mean chris doesn't have it. Once you do your initial ECU read and get that sent off the Chris, he'll send you back the base file for your set up to get you started. I don't have experience with the 440s on the v8 maf so i will be of no help since i started off with the 630 mafless base. But hopefully when you get to that point your enthusiasm of the product will change. You'll have to do a lot of logging initially but i feel like alpha-n tuning has more forgiveness in it. Do your logs, keep an eye on timing and then raise your boost.

Operator

03-11-2013, 11:26 AM

I am not saying that the product is shit, I am referring to their customer service and obvious lack of clear instructions. HELL instructions at all.

Well the thread title implies the opposite..........

Poopie above posted a very helpful link. These may also help..
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/402750-The-Great-Maestro-7-Tuning-Suite-Thread
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/496677-Get-your-tune-on!-MAESTRO-questions-thread

I understand the customer service, and in your opinion, lack there of is frustrating. But You've mentioned quite a few times that the software itself is to blame, when there are many others that haven't run into the issues that you are. Also the page that request you to update your info, shows up for me too. Not really a big deal, just hit the button, and move onto the next page.

zandrew

03-11-2013, 01:58 PM

My issue is with the customer service. It does not seem like I have gotten anywhere with Eurodyne.

Finally something positive to report. I calmed down and called RAI and actually got somewhere. I have read the ECU and installed the base Map. However now it will not run diagnostic or clear codes. It also seemed to Zap my battery.

dowsett6

03-11-2013, 02:10 PM

For whatever reason everytime I sign in it asks me to update my account which I have done everytime and it will not save my info. I guess that is also a problem with my computer huh?

It's been saving your information or it would not be auto populating it into the fields. There is a button or link at the bottom to continue to the next pages, you don't have to continue to update your information.

Don Supreme

03-11-2013, 02:23 PM

zandrew

03-11-2013, 03:24 PM

I am not saying it did but here is what happened. I actually got it to flash to my car. After this I called RAI since it would not clear the diagnostic codes or even read them which is weird considering it will flash the ECU. While I was flashing my ECU I watched the volts and they never once dropped below 12V. I was on the phone with RAI for about 10 minutes and before I called them had the ignition on for about 10 as well. He put me on hold and while I was waiting I looked at my volts and they plummeted down to next to nothing. I quickly turned the car off. Gave it a couple minutes and then tried to start with no luck. I actually never have started the car with flashed Maestro ECU.

I have since pulled the battery and charged it on a battery Charger. Reinstalled and still no volts. This battery is less then 4 months old and has never gave me a single issue. A week ago I was working on some things under the hood and had the stereo turned on for about 40-50 minutes with my base link cranked and that caused no issues. Now inless then 20 minutes it is dead???

I am not saying Maestro killed it but something happened along this process that did. The only thing different this time from any other is....

Well I will let you draw your own conclusions.....

Don Supreme

03-11-2013, 03:33 PM

If you understood more about your car and tools like Maestro, you would understand that what you are suggesting is 100% impossible.

What you are suggesting, is exactly like saying that Maestro caused your wheel to fall off.

What you should be thankful for is the fact that you ECU was not bricked.... This could definitely happen while flashing your ECU and having the battery die mid process.

zandrew

03-11-2013, 04:05 PM

Operator

03-11-2013, 04:25 PM

Like I said, it's just odd, that all these issues seem to be isolated to you and your situation. Just here locally, there are about 5 of us that have Maestro, and non of us has run into these problems. Please note this is not an attack on you or your abilities to tune or work on your car, just an observation.

Also when you flash a car, be it Maestro, APR, Unitronic, GIAC, REVO, ASP, EPL, etc...... You should have a battery charger hooked up to the car for just the reason you are now having. I've taken my car to Apikol for some work, and before they start a flash, they hook up a battery charger.

Mad Cow

03-11-2013, 04:40 PM

Look jack ass I understand perfectly fine. Your analogy of causing the wheel to fall off really showes that the one lacking is you. How the hell would Maestro cause the wheel to fall off? It is not electronically connected.

On the other hand the ECU and Maestro are related. My car OR Maestro was not allowing Maestro to start the diagnostic or clear the codes. It continued to throw a fault that I was trying to get RAI to assist with. The flash program itself went into a loop where it was doing its best to initiate the program and was having me turn on and off the ignition. It would not even allow me to close the program. I literally had to undo the dongle as it would not allow me to do any of the other prompts.

I am not saying Maestro itself caused the battery to die. I am saying that something happened during this process that zapped my battery. Even EuroDyne acknowledges this and is specific that you need to stay above 12v. If you don't think that Maestro taxes the voltage from the car then everything would be done through the computer and the key would never need to be turned on.

Had I just had the key on it would not have killed the battery which is what you are suggesting. Something happened that drained my battery in a matter of minutes and is directly related to me having Maestro connected. Your not going to convince me otherwise.

Do you even understand how this whole process works? You need to keep the voltage above 12v because otherwise you run the risk of bricking the ECU if the voltage drops for even for a fraction of a second, faster than it would take to register on any sort of voltage display. The wheel analogy is fitting because it's just as likely to happen as your battery getting destroyed by flashing, ie practically zero. Take a while guess as to why the key needs to be turned on, can you connect a scan tool with the key off? You're not using any more power to flash it than to leave it with the key on because the power used by just the ECU is negligible.

If you can't start a diagnostic session but can flash it then there's something really odd going on because they use the exact same protocol. Unless you couldn't read the bin to work either, I honestly can't tell because every one of your posts seems to contradict other things you've said.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 05:15 PM

Look jack ass I understand perfectly fine. Your analogy of causing the wheel to fall off really showes that the one lacking is you. How the hell would Maestro cause the wheel to fall off? It is not electronically connected.

On the other hand the ECU and Maestro are related. My car OR Maestro was not allowing Maestro to start the diagnostic or clear the codes. It continued to throw a fault that I was trying to get RAI to assist with. The flash program itself went into a loop where it was doing its best to initiate the program and was having me turn on and off the ignition. It would not even allow me to close the program. I literally had to undo the dongle as it would not allow me to do any of the other prompts.

I am not saying Maestro itself caused the battery to die. I am saying that something happened during this process that zapped my battery. Even EuroDyne acknowledges this and is specific that you need to stay above 12v. If you don't think that Maestro taxes the voltage from the car then everything would be done through the computer and the key would never need to be turned on.

Had I just had the key on it would not have killed the battery which is what you are suggesting. Something happened that drained my battery in a matter of minutes and is directly related to me having Maestro connected. Your not going to convince me otherwise.

come on man, Don Supreme has been here just as long as I have. I would like to think we are both active contributors to these forums even though we have somewhat moved onto other things. No reason to call him a jackass. you're wound up tighter than a bulls asshole right now. kick back with a cold one. I've left my lights on with my stereo on and killed the battery in no time. The ecu in the flash process itself does not drain the battery. Chips and micro processors just draw a few micro amps to flip the 1's and 0's. open up your mind to the possibility of something else is wrong with your car.

Don Supreme

03-11-2013, 05:30 PM

come on man, Don Supreme has been here just as long as I have. I would like to think we are both active contributors to these forums even though we have somewhat moved onto other things. No reason to call him a jackass. you're wound up tighter than a bulls asshole right now. kick back with a cold one. I've left my lights on with my stereo on and killed the battery in no time. The ecu in the flash process itself does not drain the battery. Chips and micro processors just draw a few micro amps to flip the 1's and 0's. open up your mind to the possibility of something else is wrong with your car.

Thank you Poopie.

He built a megasquirt, so I am sure he knows how minute the power consumption of a couple hundred micro amps over 20 minutes is from a fully charged car battery............ or does he? [;)]

Hmmm, never mind all the zillions of other electronics in his car, like his fans, instrument cluster, radio, etc etc etc.... no, Maestro killed it!

Maestro is demon spawn, KILL IT WITH FIRE!

zandrew

03-11-2013, 05:31 PM

I am not disagreeing that some of the issues has been the operator but the things I am trying are the things the Eurodyne themself asked me to do. However in my own defense the things that I have complained about is specifically customer service, lack of solution that has solved anything, and seemingly impossible issues that are continuing to arise.

I don't know if I am losing people in translation but the car stayed above 12v's during the flash. Once I got it flashed I called RAI to help me solve the diagnostic solution in fear that I was doing something wrong and hopefully could be guided through. I actually did everything the exact way I was supposed too do it. The car was above 12V when I started the initiated the diagnostic scan and it then went into the loop of asking me to turn off the igntion and turn it on. It would then say init failed and start over again. During this process my volts dropped from 12V to under 9V in a matter of minutes.

I did not say the battery is destroyed. I said something happened during the diagnostic scan and proceeding loop that zapped my battery. I tried to quick charge the battery with the battery charger which typically works. My wifes father has 1978 Trans Am that he covers and stores for the winter. When he pulls it out the battery is dead but responds to a quick charge and starts right up. Whatever happened to my cars battery did not respond to the quick charge and had to be charged a second time for 2 hours. It is fine now but still will not open diagnostic codes nor erase them.

This is a weird set of circumstances. However I have done exactly what I was told to do and that is why I am frustrated. The product itself seems to be very capable and I am happy for the most part up to this point. It seems like more time needs spent refining the directions and more specifically the start guide and hardware needed.

I have a 1999 Audi with the AEB. Is it possible to scale the fuel injectors with Maestro? I was under the impression that you could alter fuel injector size but I can't seem to locate it for my setup. I know I can scale the MAF.

Thank you for the answers and insight into this product. I would have probably beaten it with a hammer if it wasnt for this forum and RAI.

MAD COW- Not all scanners require the igntion to be turned on. They actually have their own dedicated power source though.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 05:33 PM

Lets just all rejoice the fact this isn't a stance thread.

zandrew

03-11-2013, 05:48 PM

Poopie

03-11-2013, 05:57 PM

You need math or Jesus to explain how an ecu drained a 40ah battery. Even if it was half charged and drew 20 amps.

Don Supreme

03-11-2013, 05:58 PM

I guess I need to get a color book and crayons out for the children to UNDERSTAND what I am trying to say. Your not going to convince me that my cars battery that has had zero issues since I can't remember is all of a sudden going to a develope a problem. The lights were not left on. None of the cars accessories were on either. I even had the door shut.

Also as I have clearly (or maybe not so clearly) stated, my battery is NOT dead. It lost charge. It lost charge after Maestro went into asking me to turn the ignition off and turning it back on to initiate the diagnostic scan. It did this about 12-15 times. While doing what Maestro prompted me to do my battery voltage tanked. If that does not make it directly related to Maestro then there is something wrong with others thinking outside of the box.

Hey what do I know. Its not like Eurodyne themself explains the importance of keeping the volts up during this process. Wait that can't be an issue since Maestro does not effect the cars voltage.

Don Supreme- You know you actually might have made a point except one major issue, NOTHING IN MY CAR WAS TURNED ON EXCEPT THE IGNITION. No fans. No radio. No lights except those on the dash. Not a damn thing. It doesn't take me building shit or installing shit to realize that nothing occured during the process to draw any voltage that would equate to killing the battery.

You don't need to draw anything. We understand everything you have written.

The issue that you don't understand what you are talking about.

Its fine to not understand, because everyone has to learn at some point. However, your style of blame everything else, instead of taking responsibility, and then humbly asking for help is a bit disconcerting.

Again, your battery failed because it was weak, end of story. There is absolutely NOTHING special about the current consumption (not voltage!) of the Maestro flashing process. You are seeing a lose logical connection and going wild with it.

FYI, Poopie is an Electrical Engineer and I am Software Engineer with electrical engineering experience. We both have significant experience flashing ECUs and other associated tasks.

Calm down, take some responsibility and stop trying to blame everything on Maestro.

Mad Cow

03-11-2013, 06:01 PM

I don't think you read what I wrote, either that or you didn't understand. I explained why you need to have it connected to a charger even though it takes next to no power. Again it has absolutely nothing to do with Maestro itself because an ECU can't physically draw the current needed to discharge a battery that quick. There's a problem with your car if your battery died from cycling the ignition 15 times like you said, because that's the only thing related to Maestro that could possibly contribute to it happening. It seems my ignition switch comment flew way over your head, you can't possibly connect a scan tool without the key in the run position because that's when the ECU itself powers up, and no you can't just power it through the OBD connector.

It really seems like you have no idea what you're doing and just blindly following whatever instructions you can find. That gets you nowhere, you need to clear your head and think long and hard about this whole situation, do some reading to try and get to the root of the problem instead of bitching about every little problem you have.

k0mpresd

03-11-2013, 06:02 PM

this thread = [headbang]

Mad Cow

03-11-2013, 06:05 PM

this thread = [headbang]

It's like a slow motion train wreck that keeps catching on fire after everything's settled, I love it.

SeekB00st

03-11-2013, 06:07 PM

this thread = [headbang]

Didn't think I'd be logging in to see you on.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 06:11 PM

It's turning into an OG gtg here. Just need onemoremile and 94 Jedi to show up and we are set.

Don Supreme

03-11-2013, 06:24 PM

It's turning into an OG gtg here. Just need onemoremile and 94 Jedi to show up and we are set.

+1

SeekB00st

03-11-2013, 07:00 PM

It's turning into an OG gtg here. Just need onemoremile and 94 Jedi to show up and we are set.

I actually remember these people... That's going back a few years

crunchie

03-11-2013, 07:09 PM

Finally something positive to report. I calmed down and called RAI and actually got somewhere. I have read the ECU and installed the base Map. However now it will not run diagnostic or clear codes. It also seemed to Zap my battery.

I'd assume future prospective Maestro users might actually find this thread useful if you detail us through what steps you took and how RAI helped you overcome your initial problem reading the ECU.

Poopie

03-11-2013, 07:11 PM

I bet your key was Not turned to the ACc position to run diagnostics.

jvega21

03-11-2013, 07:18 PM

I guess I need to get a color book and crayons out for the children to UNDERSTAND what I am trying to say. Your not going to convince me that my cars battery that has had zero issues since I can't remember is all of a sudden going to a develope a problem. The lights were not left on. None of the cars accessories were on either. I even had the door shut.

Also as I have clearly (or maybe not so clearly) stated, my battery is NOT dead. It lost charge. It lost charge after Maestro went into asking me to turn the ignition off and turning it back on to initiate the diagnostic scan. It did this about 12-15 times. While doing what Maestro prompted me to do my battery voltage tanked. If that does not make it directly related to Maestro then there is something wrong with others thinking outside of the box.

Hey what do I know. Its not like Eurodyne themself explains the importance of keeping the volts up during this process. Wait that can't be an issue since Maestro does not effect the cars voltage.

Don Supreme- You know you actually might have made a point except one major issue, NOTHING IN MY CAR WAS TURNED ON EXCEPT THE IGNITION. No fans. No radio. No lights except those on the dash. Not a damn thing. It doesn't take me building shit or installing shit to realize that nothing occured during the process to draw any voltage that would equate to killing the battery.

you are loosing support FAST. you need to get off your high horse and chill the fuck out. If youre pissed off, then be pissed off, but dont take it out on the people trying to help you. If theyre being sarcastic or coming off as assholes its because you asked for it. calm down and everything will fall into place

Poopie

03-11-2013, 08:04 PM

this is where zandrew should come in and say sorry, i'm chill, these are my issues at the current moment. then we can assist as best as we can with what we know. Its really that simple.

redline380

03-11-2013, 08:23 PM

You need to watch the episode of futurama when bender needs an upgrade so he doesn't hate the new 1x robots. Apply what you learn in the episode to your situation

God I hope at least one person understands the reference lol

Edit- for those of you who haven't seen it, read this http://futurama.wikia.com/wiki/Obsoletely_Fabulous

jvega21

03-11-2013, 08:32 PM

hahahahaha knowing Zandrew hell come back with reasons why it doesn't apply because Bender ends up taking the upgrade and his car doesn't.

onemoremile

03-11-2013, 09:59 PM

It's turning into an OG gtg here. Just need onemoremile and 94 Jedi to show up and we are set.

Halfway there!

I've been watching this thread quietly. Thought about posting a few times but sometimes it is just too entertaining to interfere.

onemoremile

03-11-2013, 10:22 PM

Look jack ass I understand perfectly fine. Your analogy of causing the wheel to fall off really showes that the one lacking is you. How the hell would Maestro cause the wheel to fall off? It is not electronically connected.

I guess I need to get a color book and crayons out for the children to UNDERSTAND what I am trying to say. Your not going to convince me that my cars battery that has had zero issues since I can't remember is all of a sudden going to a develope a problem. The lights were not left on. None of the cars accessories were on either. I even had the door shut.

Cut the crap. I've been around these guys for a long time and you've got a bit of an audizine dream team trying to help and you seem intent on alienating them. If you want to sit in the garage by yourself without us then keep it up. That said, I've gotta say that these are the guys I'd want drinking my beer in my garage and getting their hands dirty.

Judging by the tone and candor of your posts I can make an immediate assumption as to why your attempts at getting good help have failed. Have you tried being polite and to the point? It really does make for effective communication. Mistreating those on your side is a quick way to alienate them. Sadly, it may be past that point for some.

As for the battery issues, charge it fully and then turn the key on and off a couple dozen times like you did before. See if the issue repeats itself. Once is an anomaly, twice is an issue. I believe there is an issue with the battery itself. If you switched the ignition on and turned on all the lights, seat heaters, radio, and held the window switches up to load the motors then your battery would still not discharge that quickly. It is a simple matter of amp draw versus amp hours. When a battery fails it can exhibit some very strange behavior.

FWIW, pink crayons taste the best. Purple aren't bad but then your teeth tell the tale and nobody wants that.

Seerlah

03-11-2013, 10:32 PM

Jim is back. My new favorite thread [cool].

OP, listen to the people in this thread. With their assistance you will persevere. Hope everything works out and you get to enjoy fine tuning your vehicle.

Fourplay

03-11-2013, 10:38 PM

Now after I have asked them to refund me they have finally given me the part number I asked for 3 weeks ago only after buying the wrong part since they refused to give me the part number

That is beyond bizarre. "We'll give you the PN after you buy it" sounds like a scheme to charge a ton in re-stocking fees.

nynoah

03-11-2013, 11:27 PM

This thread needs anger management.

zandrew

03-11-2013, 11:42 PM

I don't mind getting help with the issue. I am getting told something is the fault when it is obviously is not what the fault is.

Imagine your going to rob a bank with your buddies and the gun you are trying to pop the stubborn Manger that is not giving up the vital vault codes continues to Jamb and that everyone around you is saying it must be you and not the gun. This is fairly similiar except no one is getting Knee capped in this thread.

The ignition was on. EVEN now that I have over 13 volts with a freshly charged battery it will still not run the diagnostic. Hmmmm.....

NOW FOR THE LAST TIME I AM NOT BLAMING MAESTRO for the battery dying. I am blaming the specific set of circumstances that Maestro asked me to go through is what zapped it. Your not going to convince me otherwise. I have actually went and retried to simulate what happened. Rolling the battery on and off without Maestro hooked did not kill the battery. I did it for over 30 minutes. The voltage hardly even dropped.

I then recharged the battery for the same amount of time and reinstalled it. My battery voltage dropped below 12V in less then 10 minutes of me trying to run the diagnostic check with the Maestro. Since I have the audizine dream team doing work I will let you pick this apart instead of me making my assumptions based off the facts at hand.

Now I will clearly and fairly state that some of the issues has been the operator. However no more so then anyone else that is using the program for the first time. Considering I program CNC for a living this should NOT be nearly as difficult. It was designed not too be difiicult. I have done this step by step and the issues that have arose for me specifically have seem to been never ending. In fairness to those that has had this setup work without the hitches it would seem from an outside perspective that something must be off with the operator. Well its not, I am a NAZI when it comes to doing things the way they are supposed to be done and designed to do.

Don Supreme- If the genuine interest is in helping me then stop making childish douche bag statements and actually offer something of value. Start assuming that I actually have done what I am supposed to have done because I in fact did. There are other issues beside operator error. Once those are resolved I am quite sure the Maestro will not have anymore issues.

zandrew

03-12-2013, 12:01 AM

I'd assume future prospective Maestro users might actually find this thread useful if you detail us through what steps you took and how RAI helped you overcome your initial problem reading the ECU.

When I tried on my other computers to go past the initial log in inside Maestro it would not work. Evertime I entered the unique user area it asked for my info. If I tried to bypass it directly to the download links all the fields would turn red and would not let me go past this without entiring all of my info again. Now on my old ass lap top it did this again but only once. I can now bypass this page like I should have been able to from the get go. I am actually wondering if the Eurodyne website had something going on with it and it was what was causing the specific issues I was having since this seems distinctive to my case.

RAI basically explained to me that the issues I was having was nothing that they don't go through themselves. The specific issue I was having problems with was that I assumed I could read the ECU before flashing it. Appearently you can't. The Dongle has to be "married" to the ECU before any of the features will work.

When I spoke with Eurodyne it seemed like I actually could run the features before hand. Some other members I have PM'd (on another site) said it would do so for them before Marrying to the car. I was trying to see if it would communcate before Marrying the vehicle in case I needed to return it. HOWEVER I actually do believe it is perfectly possible to run the diagnostic before hand. The faults I was seeing before I flashed are the exact same as after I flashed. It actually would let me prompt the ECU but would not run the diagnostic. Also it would read the ECU information without issue.

Nollywood

03-12-2013, 02:16 AM

Zandrew, you need to calm down, like chill out completely.

You're way too wound up to be of any use to your car right now. People ARE trying to help, but you're not making things easy. You're not being receptive, everything that's suggested, you have a ready response, and not positive ones either. Poopie and Don are old hands, and probably know as much, if not more about ECU's than the rest of us in the B5 section put together. You need to relax, and not just listen, but assimilate.

Electronics is a complex subject, and you need to be methodical in your approach, otherwise you'll simply wind yourself up and get nowhere. Calling Don a jackass was uncalled for, and to be honest, you owe him an apology. No ifs or buts. If he was as tight as you are, he'd have exploded, or simply told you to get stuffed. But he didn't, he's still got your back.

No one's being a dick, and any suggestions made are based upon the information you've provided. They are not absolutes, and shouldn't be taken as such. But logic will always play a part here. If people come across as sarcastic, that's just the way you're choosing to see things, you're that mad. Why else would you even consider taking Maestro outside to beat it with a hammer? Like that will get your car up and running? [confused]

So bud, take a chill pill. I would suggest you take a couple of days off your car, and do something else. You'd be surprised what a clear head could achieve. If you can't take this in, and approach your issues logically (without getting mad) then I humbly suggest you get a gallon of gasoline, douse your car with it, strike a match and watch it burn. Then buy a stock JDM and smoke that around.

Remote assistance is just that - remote. You can't expect online techs to 100% diagnose glitches that have baffled experts in person.

Good luck.

ricekikr

03-12-2013, 04:51 AM

I then recharged the battery for the same amount of time and reinstalled it. My battery voltage dropped below 12V in less then 10 minutes of me trying to run the diagnostic check with the Maestro.

Fresh battery that has never been fully discharged? (fresh = relatively new, not 1+ years old)

+1 on what everybody said here. No way will diagnostics drain a fresh newly charged battery.

GetBoosted84

03-12-2013, 05:55 AM

I want to give kudos to everyone in this thread that has attempted to give Zandrew help even though he has called them names and acted like a child. I just read through this thread and without a doubt this guy is having isolated issues and is just whining about it all over the forum.

I run maestro and honestly it is one of the easiest tuning suites I have ever used and I have never been happier with a tuning product.

So lets recap Zandrew's opinion on maestro...
* It sucks (it doesn't... do a search for all the happy people using it)
* Customer service sucks (they are a small company and they are as responsive as they can be. I've had nothing but good experiences talking to Eurodyne so far)
* It magically eats car batteries (lol, this was a funny one... wrong but funny)
* It requires the .Net framework to run (If your computer doesn't have the .net framework by now, I have no idea how you go about your day. That's the basis for gobs of common programs out there so shame on you... also, not Eurodyne's fault)

Zandrew, guys here are just trying to help you and if you keep giving them crap, they won't help you then you'll have to make a new thread about how audizine's customer service sucks so I would suggest you curb that. If you have pointed questions about using maestro then asking in this forum & vortex is going to yield you positive & helpful responses... blindly saying a product "is CRAP" (your words... not mine) will get you no where.

Poopie

03-12-2013, 06:49 AM

do you have an aftermarket radio? sometimes your kline can get stuck causing you to be unable to run diagnostics.

Poopie

03-12-2013, 06:52 AM

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html

Nollywood

03-12-2013, 06:58 AM

do you have an aftermarket radio? sometimes your kline can get stuck causing you to be unable to run diagnostics.

Good point there, Poopie. I've had aftermarket radios blocking communication, with the ABS module in particular.

Poopie

03-12-2013, 07:15 AM

You should have no issues pulling codes with just the dongle. I have used my maestro cable to pull codes off other cars before and it had nothing to do with marrying the cable. Try to find another members car to just scan. Does your vagcom work?

contrldsub

03-12-2013, 08:24 AM

and on a seperate note. no one has realized that its everyone elses problem there is no way that this individual could "possibly" doing something wrong. people have offered him advice and different point's of view on his issue and he has clearly made an effort to refute that something could br wrong on his end and it is totally the company's fault.

im not trying to be a dick but this whole thread is you on the defensive rather than gaining a little perspective on the situation. i say, if your stuck with.... make it work. try a different computer, something. but quitcomplaining about the product and the people on here trying to give you a hand.

Poopie

03-12-2013, 08:41 AM

2000zxt

03-12-2013, 08:51 AM

Just build another Megasquirt man, Sell the meastro and buy 3 MS units lol . Once I had my MS2 built, I wired it in in 3 hours flat, the wiring harness barely needs to be modified you just need to wire out the ignition module....I base tuned the car and drove it home the same day I installed it.

M-Hood

03-12-2013, 08:51 AM

he is obviously trying. his biggest gripe is over customer service. i can't imagine how he treats his cable providers.....[confused]

anyway, post up pictures of your car, set up, screen shots of errors, etc. Its tough to help you out without the whole picture.

Well if the problem isn't tune related why should a company give any type of customer service? It isn't hard to figure out the issue was a computer issue or issue with the end user.

I know another B5 owner that ordered the Maestro and this is the first time he has ever tried it. He had zero issues getting his maestro to work on the first try. He received the package last Friday (8th), got his base tune and has already tweaked that tune 8 times. All of that in 3 days with 2 of those days being a weekend.

chris164935

03-12-2013, 10:46 AM

xdewaynex

03-12-2013, 11:08 AM

Someone mentioned the Kline and aftermarket radio. Is your abs module possibly on the fritz? If so, pop the hood, and unplug it. I cant scan my car with my broken module hooked up, but unhooked, I can scan with ease.

zandrew

03-12-2013, 11:33 AM

Poopie- I don't have an aftermarket radio and the Kline leading to it is cut. This was done about 2 weeks ago..

xedwaynex- Yes my ABS module is taking a shit on me. Sometimes it works and most times it does not. I will unplug and see what happens.

contrldsub- Yes I have been defensive. I am sick of hearing the issue is with me when I have done exactly what I am supposed to have done.

Getboosted84- Seriously??? I guess you don't remember selling me the GT3071R just a week or so ago? Thats right it was GT3076R, you didn't even know the difference and your going to try and post something credible now...

I contacted Eurodyne and downloaded, uploaded, upgraded, deleted, and reuploaded all the necessary programs to run this program. I ALSO made sure I was running the newest versions. I even went as far to wipe clean a 3 month old computer. THEN, after me wasting over 5 hours repeating this process the program works without fault on the one computer it shouldn't by Eurodynes directions. That qualifies as CRAP in my book.

ricekikr- Its listed that the battery is virtually new.

M Hood and everyone else- You are making my argument for me. You continue to give examples where this has worked without fault for others so by reason it must be ME that is having the issue. I am not doing anything different then anyone else has done. I will state that some of it has been error on MY BEHALF but no more then anyone else using this for the first time.

Having said that if your interested in assisting then assist. Making childish half witted comments is only going to enrage me more. Assume that I have actually done things like I am supposed to have and then think what could be going wrong. Thats where I need help.

AS I HAVE STATED, I am a NAZI when it comes to doing things the right way. This is why I was so pissed at Eurodyne. No ones reply's have assumed I am doing exactly what I was supposed to do.

Nollywood- I don't owe anyone an apology. Don was being a jack ass making smart ass comments that did not add anything credible to this thread. Your right I was pissed off enough to smash this with a hammer. I am sure had you been me you would have fealt the same way.

Its like going to the store and buying a TV. Atleast 100,000 of them just like it are working like they are supposed too. You get home and plug yours in and it turns on and off. I guess in this example as well its also your fault and not the TV's or for that part the manufacturer.

zandrew

03-12-2013, 11:42 AM

I'm waiting for the Maestro blew up my motor post. Lol.

Anyway, if you're still on Windows XP, why haven't you updated to Windows 7 or 8? XP is no longer supported by Microsoft and is extremely vulnerable when you are the internet... I would not be surprised if you could not run the software because your computer is loaded with malware, and/or root viruses. The computer you claim the software works on is one that has rarely been used. Also, I have read several articles that claim Windows 8 can actually boost the perform of an older PC.

It would not work on the Windows 8 or windows 7 computer. It is working without a glitch on the one with Windows Xp. I would be skeptical of paying attention to anyone stating that Windows 8 or 7 is making an older computer work better. These programs demand so much more computer abaility in respect to older computers its not funny. A good example is I know people that run XP with AutoCAD on older computers since trying to run it with 7 or 8 just heats the computer up and it will shut off. This happens within minutes of turning it on. Once they swapped back to XP it works just fine.

GetBoosted84

03-12-2013, 11:54 AM

zandrew, these guys who posted are just trying to help you and you were calling some of them names. That's why I posted. People (are for the most part) trying to help you along with this and it comes off like you are refusing their help or just being defense about the situation. It's not like the guys here work for Eurodyne so they aren't getting anything out of helping you... they are just trying the help out people in the community and you are brow beating them for it.

I have to agree with the other guys here and say that the issues you are running into can be solved by fixing the issues with your computer. Is there any possibility of you doing a fresh install of Windows on that box and then making sure it's fully updated with all the latest service packs and updates then try out VAG-COM and if that works then try Maestro? That's the progression I would take at least.

nynoah

03-12-2013, 12:00 PM

Mad Cow

03-12-2013, 12:20 PM

A good example is I know people that run XP with AutoCAD on older computers since trying to run it with 7 or 8 just heats the computer up and it will shut off. This happens within minutes of turning it on. Once they swapped back to XP it works just fine.

FYI that makes absolutely no sense, if a computer is heating up to the point of turning off then the problem isn't with Windows, it's with the hardware or maybe some really odd driver issue. I have a old Celeron M laptop that was crap when it was new over 6 year ago, 7 runs smoother than XP ever did. I can see you don't know much about computers, nothing wrong with that, but don't try to act like your much-stated experience with rebuilding turbos and CNC operation has anything to do with computer or electrical knowledge.

One important question that I can't believe wasn't asked before, is the windows 7 computer running a 32 or 64 bit copy of windows? 64 bit windows tends to cause odd problems with software like this, some people have no issues, some have problems like you. I installed a copy of 32bit XP on a other partition just so I can quickly switch between the 2 versions if I ever have problems and isolate the hardware portion at the same time since it's still the same laptop.

redline380

03-12-2013, 12:35 PM

Well if the problem isn't tune related why should a company give any type of customer service? It isn't hard to figure out the issue was a computer issue or issue with the end user.

holy shit mike hood and i agree on something!!!!

when i installed maestro, i had a couple small issues at first, ran to tapp like an idiot and recieved no help, and i manned up and figured the issues out on my own cause it wasnt tapp's fault.

after i flashed everything, i wasn't seeing a bit of timing. got ahold of tapp (this time it was maestro's fault), and he had it figured out by the end of the day. turns out i needed to check a certain box and type in a certain code which he gave me. i immediately saw my timing i wanted. all parties were happy.

dude, you need to chill the fuck out, figure out the issues with your computer, and stop blaming eurodyne for something that isnt their fault. with my experience, they will help when they need to. it would be more appropriate for you to start a thread complaining about windows

stunner247

03-12-2013, 12:43 PM

I think from the get go, you came in with an attitude of confrontation. What you are receiving from all parties is a direct reflection of that. Heck perhaps I could help you, but I don't really want to because the stress involved. Food for thought.

Agreed.

Just saw this thread and thought I could help out being as I ran Maestro for 3 years on an AEB, then I read the whole thing and changed my mind.

nunya

03-12-2013, 12:56 PM

Good point there, Poopie. I've had aftermarket radios blocking communication, with the ABS module in particular.

Yep, or a bad ABS controller can cause issues as well.

--dillon

Poopie

03-12-2013, 01:44 PM

i pretty much give up on this kid. HAVE FUN!

onemoremile

03-12-2013, 01:51 PM

I would bet that as soon as you have it installed on a machine that runs it in a stable manner that all the issues will be resolved and you can get down to tuning. We all know that that is all you want. The issue is a stable computer.

I've run solidworks for 14 years and have this issue every time a big service pack or new version rolls out, about 40 times now. It gets unstable and quirky and I lose my faith in it's ability to complete a project. I have the option of saving constantly and dealing with crashes or spending a day researching driver issues and making everything stable again.

In sum, seek stability.

xdewaynex

03-12-2013, 01:57 PM

Poopie- I don't have an aftermarket radio and the Kline leading to it is cut. This was done about 2 weeks ago..

xedwaynex- Yes my ABS module is taking a shit on me. Sometimes it works and most times it does not. I will unplug and see what happens.

I would definitely unplug it and give it a try then, especially if you have already disconnected the kline. I done the same with my Alpine radio, even though it had worked before. My abs module finally died, and wouldnt allow the obd port to communicate. My abs module has been unplugged for a year now, and I get communication every time.

coolgraymemo

03-12-2013, 02:39 PM

lol @ title change

Artiemas

03-12-2013, 03:03 PM

lol @ title change

Same. I clicked to make sure it was same thread.

Buy a Geo Metro.

walky_talky20

03-12-2013, 03:11 PM

Same. I clicked to make sure it was same thread.

Ditto. I was like 99%, but I just had to click it to make sure.

Seerlah

03-12-2013, 03:17 PM

^I think this guy is an IT tech. Spillin the beans!

Poopie

03-12-2013, 03:21 PM

It would not work on the Windows 8 or windows 7 computer. It is working without a glitch on the one with Windows Xp. I would be skeptical of paying attention to anyone stating that Windows 8 or 7 is making an older computer work better. These programs demand so much more computer abaility in respect to older computers its not funny. A good example is I know people that run XP with AutoCAD on older computers since trying to run it with 7 or 8 just heats the computer up and it will shut off. This happens within minutes of turning it on. Once they swapped back to XP it works just fine.

lol this is funny. how did i miss this? I have no issues with windows 7 running solidworks 2012 premium on parallels with my mac. This includes running simulations. Granted running FEA simulations would be a tad quicker on some super computers, i had no issues. Sounds like you and the people you know are running busted puters.

zandrew

03-12-2013, 03:28 PM

I am actually not laughing at the title change and to be quite frank its horse shit.

- I spoke with EuroDyne and requested a part number that they refused to give me. They did give me the model of vehicle it came on but NOT the part number. Not until after I bought their product. I ended up buying the wrong part based off the limited information they gave me. Sounds like CRAP.
- Contacted Eurodyne about issues with the my computer not running their program and seemed to get the variable run around. Nothing they answered me with solved anything. Also they have refused to answer either of my last emails. Hmmmm....... MORE CRAP.
- Finally start the program on computer that it should NOT WORK ON and guess what, it works. Yeah even MORE CRAP.
- The instructions I was given with the program are lacking to say the least. None of the hardware requirements are listed. CRAP CRAP CRAP.

I am not confused about a damn thing. Their customer service is CRAP. There are only certain situations that allowes the moderator to edit my posts and I have not exhibited any of those. Please change my title back.

Now the issue with my diagnostic not running has been solved. Once I unplugged my ABS module it will now scan the car.

STILL if I unplug the ABS and cycle the ignition like the program has asked me to do it does not make my battery voltage tank without having maestro hooked up. With the Maestro flash program on and the ABS unhooked it kills my battery if I cycle the ignition. With my hand scanner hooked up and me cycling the igntion it does not make the voltage tank.

I started this thread to document issues I was having with EUrodyne and their customer service since I did not see a single person that had issues like I am having. That way if others look for feedback before buying Maestro they will see the issues I am having and can consider their lack of customer service before buying it.

FourPlay- Had I chose to return Maestro I would have lost $320 and would have been returned $480 of the $800. This is not listed on their site either and YES IT IS CRAP.

Poopie

03-12-2013, 03:33 PM

so it was your car along? and not maestro? wow go figure. and it was your laptops configuration? wow go figure. I wonder if the problem with your battery is related to your car or maestro?

i believe the title change is appropriate and more accurate.

CCA4

03-12-2013, 03:36 PM

http://cdn.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/picture/928653/80871558.gif

coolgraymemo

03-12-2013, 03:39 PM

I am actually not laughing at the title change and to be quite frank its horse shit.

tell me why you're mad...

LINDW4LL

03-12-2013, 03:50 PM

Can someone just lock this thread?

onemoremile

03-12-2013, 03:54 PM

I am actually not laughing at the title change and to be quite frank its horse shit.

I have a thing for accuracy, call it a quirk. Feel free to take the issue up with me but I can assure you that it will not end well. Standards, like art, begin with drawing a line somewhere.

We get very few threads like this here. We have our issues now and then but for the most part we behave and communicate as adults. I've read through this thread several times now and I see confusion leading to frustration, blame, anger, apology, and so on. This cycle will get you nowhere. If the software was crap then there would be threads trashing it on all of the forums rather than hundreds of cars running it. There is a problem to be solved. Identify it, solve it, and proceed. Suck it up and keep moving.

Now with that out of that way, if we can be of any assistance please feel free to ask and respond in an adult manner. I guarantee you that the reputable and knowledgeable members that could do this for you will not be content getting caught up in your shitstorm for long. I've read your threads on other forums and see a lot of good information from you but there is also plenty of this crap to balance it out. For the record, in 9 years this is the first time that a moderator of another forum has ever contacted me to say it is a lost cause. You have the ability to communicate with decency. Do it. I understand your frustration, I'm sure we all do, but taking it out on us will get you nowhere.

M-Hood

03-12-2013, 03:58 PM

Poopie

03-12-2013, 04:08 PM

mike, i think he said he called the parts guy and said the part he bought was for a tdi, and then he bought one for the v8. pretty sure 077 133 471 J was the correct part anyways that a member gave him.

nynoah

03-12-2013, 04:15 PM

Basically to the original poster or anyone else in the future that reads this thread:

The way that you interact with people sets the stage for how they will interact with you. If you come off as surly then that projects that energy onto others and they in turn will be surly in reply. Its a cycle that feeds itself until your own world view becomes almost permanent angered well because everyone around you is angry too. Do your best to try to be positive in even crappy situations and you will find people that will rise up to meet your positive energy. Its a lesson I learned the hard way. But one I try to live the right way now. It's also a lesson that has brought me a great deal of positive things into my life once I started to give the world positive input. Really who wants to live their life like they are a permanent member of the Jersey Shore? (always looking for a fight)

Original poster, try changing that and see what happens. It won't be an instant change, it will take time, but it works.

Operator

03-12-2013, 05:16 PM

I am actually not laughing at the title change and to be quite frank its horse shit.

I am not confused about a damn thing. Their customer service is CRAP. There are only certain situations that allowes the moderator to edit my posts and I have not exhibited any of those. Please change my title back.

This is not listed on their site either and YES IT IS CRAP.

From your own posts:

I am not saying that the product is shit, I am referring to their customer service and obvious lack of clear instructions. HELL instructions at all.

I honestly feel their customer service sucks because they don't know how to use it themself.

My issue is with the customer service. It does not seem like I have gotten anywhere with Eurodyne.

Your original title was read to say Maestro itself was crap, and that is misleading. If your beef is with "Eurodyne" and their customer service that's a whole nother matter. But to say "Just Bought Maestro, Wow this is crap" leads people to think you feel the program itself is crap. When you yourself have stated your issue has been with customer support, and that you in fact are looking forward to actually using Maestro once things get ironed out.

onemoremile

03-12-2013, 05:18 PM

Can someone just lock this thread?

It would be easy to do that but it wouldn't be productive. If I lock it then it adds to his frustration and this blows up somewhere else. If we can get the issues resolved and he can get down to tuning and have some fun with it then we actually have created a resource. I'm still shooting for the positive outcome but will tolerate it up to a point.

I would really like to see his problem solved. That solution could help somebody.

LINDW4LL

03-12-2013, 05:39 PM

Well said.

melomandn

03-12-2013, 06:13 PM

It would be easy to do that but it wouldn't be productive. If I lock it then it adds to his frustration and this blows up somewhere else. If we can get the issues resolved and he can get down to tuning and have some fun with it then we actually have created a resource. I'm still shooting for the positive outcome but will tolerate it up to a point.

I would really like to see his problem solved. That solution could help somebody.

Thank you for at least changing the thread name

2000zxt

03-12-2013, 06:43 PM

My battery voltage dropped below 12V in less then 10 minutes of me trying to run the diagnostic check with the Maestro.

Totally normal. A pretty healthy battery will be at 12.5 key off. So keeping the ignition on for 10 minutes, yeah its going to drop below 12. Youll find a fresh charged battery will read near 13 but it will slowly drop off to 12.5~6. Wait a few minutes and put a good meter on the battery and you will just watch it fall as soon as you take it off the charger.

Everything you are saying sounds like a totally normal, actually pretty healthy battery. Put a charger (while still connected) on it if you are going to keep the key on engine off.

k0mpresd

03-12-2013, 10:45 PM

Totally normal. A pretty healthy battery will be at 12.5 key off. So keeping the ignition on for 10 minutes, yeah its going to drop below 12. Youll find a fresh charged battery will read near 13 but it will slowly drop off to 12.5~6. Wait a few minutes and put a good meter on the battery and you will just watch it fall as soon as you take it off the charger.

Everything you are saying sounds like a totally normal, actually pretty healthy battery. Put a charger (while still connected) on it if you are going to keep the key on engine off.

i see battery voltage dropping <12v just from reading an ecu. makes me a little nervous sometimes honestly. always best to have a charger handy.

k0mpresd

03-12-2013, 10:46 PM

zandrew

03-13-2013, 12:49 AM

The battery is just not dropping below 12V. That is normal for the amount of time the igntion has been on. It starts tanking and if I leave it be with NO accessories on it will go below 10V as opposed to not having Maestro connected it barely gets below 12V. This really is a non issue to me since he car will allow me to flash the ECU. I will simply connect a charger in the future just to be on the safe side.

I also have the diagnostic issue sorted.

I have taken time away from this thread and calmed myself down. Yes I have been dick and it seems par for course for me. I realize the intent was to aid in me solving the issue and for that I am appreciative. This is not what I was getting pissed about. I am actually over the Customer service issue as well since I have found more reliable outlets to get problems resolved.

WHat did piss me off is the fact that instead of assistance I received continous banter about user fault and was asked to do things that I had already covered. Its like rounding off a 10mm bolt head and be reduced to using vise grips while having 10 people stand around you teling you to try a 10mm wrench. Its simply not going to get you anywhere. Also statements were made that their soul purpose to was piss me off more and it was counter productive to the problems at hand which ended up having a simple solution. Especially those "supreme" comments.

zandrew

03-13-2013, 01:07 AM

Wait didn't you post a while back that the parts guy you bought the MAF from gave you the wrong one which had a completely different part # then what you asked him for?
If so then why are you still blaming Eurodyne for that when you should be putting all the blame on the parts guy?

If you weren't 100% sure which MAF to get you shouldn't have been so quick at buying one and did a search on the forums to see which exact MAF part number you needed for your year car and the Maestro tune. It isn't like this product is brand new and only a handfull of Audi owners are running it, so the info is all over the internet. You really should learn to do way more research or ask questions before buying stuff. But then we already know you are a impulse buyer when you see what you think is a "good deal".

Mike you have a good memory but that was the VR6 MAF I was after. I bought a VR6 MAF that was supposed to a MKIV but ended up getting a different VR6 MAF. One has the element running parrellel to the MAF and one has it running perpendicular. I needed the MKIV and got the wrong one.

Good suggestion. I did search and could not find the part number (don't believe me try search yourself). I went as far to ask another member that I know that has Maestro to take a screen shot of the part number since EuroDyne would not give it too me. The only thing they commented about it was that it was from an early Audi A8 which I already gathered from the futile search for the part number.

Since I addressed their lack of customer service they have replied once. The reply stated that I needed to run .NET framework and their suggestion was that they felt it was best to return the product, AT A $320 loss too me. They have not replied to any more of inquiries. They have made zero effort to aid in getting the program downloaded which is all I asked for from them.

ODDLY now the program will now take on my desktop. There have been no updates or anything since I last tried. Funny.

M-Hood

03-13-2013, 08:57 AM

Mike you have a good memory but that was the VR6 MAF I was after. I bought a VR6 MAF that was supposed to a MKIV but ended up getting a different VR6 MAF. One has the element running parrellel to the MAF and one has it running perpendicular. I needed the MKIV and got the wrong one.

Good suggestion. I did search and could not find the part number (don't believe me try search yourself). I went as far to ask another member that I know that has Maestro to take a screen shot of the part number since EuroDyne would not give it too me. The only thing they commented about it was that it was from an early Audi A8 which I already gathered from the futile search for the part number.

Since I addressed their lack of customer service they have replied once. The reply stated that I needed to run .NET framework and their suggestion was that they felt it was best to return the product, AT A $320 loss too me. They have not replied to any more of inquiries. They have made zero effort to aid in getting the program downloaded which is all I asked for from them.

ODDLY now the program will now take on my desktop. There have been no updates or anything since I last tried. Funny.

But why were you after a VR6 MAF? All you had to do is start a new thread on this forum asking what MAF you need for Maestro for your year/model car, plenty of people would have posted up the correct info seeing there is a good amount of A4 owners running Maestro. If you would have asked that same question on AF you would have gotten some answers or people telling you to post that question on AZ. This is exactly what the forums are for.

redline380

03-13-2013, 11:53 AM

so just where exactly are you now?

is maestro loaded and operating fine?
are you just looking for the correct MAF?
have you thought about running a different MAF?

please explain the status of where you are. im confused [confused]

zandrew

03-13-2013, 03:01 PM

But why were you after a VR6 MAF? All you had to do is start a new thread on this forum asking what MAF you need for Maestro for your year/model car, plenty of people would have posted up the correct info seeing there is a good amount of A4 owners running Maestro. If you would have asked that same question on AF you would have gotten some answers or people telling you to post that question on AZ. This is exactly what the forums are for.

At that time I had spoke with United Motorports and was seriously considering their Stage 3 and the VR6 MAF which would also work with Maestro from some of the info I had seen. Then got on my turbo collecting kick (I'm addicted) and realized quickly that going with Maestro would render better results. Yes maybe I should have asked on the forum but still, seriously come one, there is no excuse for not being given a part number. Actually I did ask another member for it and then asked Eurodyne to verify and they still would not give it too me.

It is up and running fine. I am looking at the MAF I have and the MAF that is supposed to be the one I need. From an outside perspective they look identical. I am wondering if maybe I can use the housing and swap the element. I will see if someone can verify the ID of the one needed. The element is a lot cheaper then the buying the complete MAF.

A side note for anyone wondering. The 440 tune for the AEB uses the VR6 MAF even though it is labeled as a stock MAF in the program.

redline380

03-13-2013, 05:49 PM

M-Hood

03-13-2013, 07:57 PM

At that time I had spoke with United Motorports and was seriously considering their Stage 3 and the VR6 MAF which would also work with Maestro from some of the info I had seen. Then got on my turbo collecting kick (I'm addicted) and realized quickly that going with Maestro would render better results. Yes maybe I should have asked on the forum but still, seriously come one, there is no excuse for not being given a part number. Actually I did ask another member for it and then asked Eurodyne to verify and they still would not give it too me.

It is up and running fine. I am looking at the MAF I have and the MAF that is supposed to be the one I need. From an outside perspective they look identical. I am wondering if maybe I can use the housing and swap the element. I will see if someone can verify the ID of the one needed. The element is a lot cheaper then the buying the complete MAF.

A side note for anyone wondering. The 440 tune for the AEB uses the VR6 MAF even though it is labeled as a stock MAF in the program.

You should have just asked me, I could have made a few calls for you and got you a straight answer.

nynoah

03-13-2013, 08:03 PM

Yeah buy from Mike he really goes above and beyond to help his customers

jvega21

03-13-2013, 08:23 PM

Even if you don't buy from him. Mike always has an answer. I bug him all the time only bought a engine cover. It doesn't hurt that he's also my neighbor. Kinda

Poopie

03-13-2013, 08:45 PM

last time i got something from mike i opened the box and it smelled like farts. pretty sure he just ripped one and mailed it to me just concentrating in odor all the way across the USA. Other than that he's a solid guy.

walky_talky20

03-13-2013, 09:16 PM

Poopie, your box smelled like farts? You don't say...

M-Hood

03-14-2013, 12:34 AM

rockersteady

03-14-2013, 01:27 AM

A side note for anyone wondering. The 440 tune for the AEB uses the VR6 MAF even though it is labeled as a stock MAF in the program.

For anyone wondering the Maestro 7 AEB 440 file DOES NOT use a VR6 maf housing, It uses a stock sensor and needs to be scaled in order to run in a 3' housing

redline380

03-14-2013, 07:26 AM

You can use any combination of elements and housings you want, but you'll need to do the scaling yourself. If your having this much trouble with the maf, why not use the stock element in a larger housing and scale it to your needs? I personally don't know how to do it. Either that or switch to a wideband ecu/harness and forget about the maf all together.

For anyone wondering the Maestro 7 AEB 440 file DOES NOT use a VR6 maf housing, It uses a stock sensor and needs to be scaled in order to run in a 3' housing

Told you so! [:D]

Mad Cow

03-14-2013, 09:38 AM

For anyone wondering the Maestro 7 AEB 440 file DOES NOT use a VR6 maf housing, It uses a stock sensor and needs to be scaled in order to run in a 3' housing

Isn't the VR6 element the same as stock? I remember someone saying that all Bosch elements are the same, just a different housing.

EDIT: Stupid me, didn't read it right. Disregard this post.

M-Hood

03-14-2013, 09:43 AM

For anyone wondering the Maestro 7 AEB 440 file DOES NOT use a VR6 maf housing, It uses a stock sensor and needs to be scaled in order to run in a 3' housing

Not even sure why he would even pick to run a 440cc tune/injector setup when there are better size injectors to run and most if he plans on upgrading to a larger turbo then the GT2871r he plans on running now. Might as well started with 550cc, 630cc, 750cc or even the 1000cc tune/injector setup so there would be no point in changing injectors later on when the turbo gets changed.

Avant Nate

03-14-2013, 10:04 AM

Chris Told me that the 440 tune was for a k04. Never asked about the housing though.

zandrew

03-14-2013, 02:39 PM

For anyone wondering the Maestro 7 AEB 440 file DOES NOT use a VR6 maf housing, It uses a stock sensor and needs to be scaled in order to run in a 3' housing

Hmmm.... I am pretty sure you are wrong on this. Open the file that uses the stock MAF and injectors and compare that MAF scale to the one with 440 injectors also labeled stock MAF. Considerable difference in MAF scale.

Also when I asked Eurodyne they commented that it is VR6 MAF.

Mhood- The 440 injectors are from an old setup. I also have brand new 630cc Siemens bought specifically for this.

REdline- With the AEB you have to use a MAF. There is no way around this. I don't know "who" you heard it from that all MAF elements are the same but they must not have looked very hard. Some run parrellel to the MAF housing and some perpendicular to it. Also the 4.2 MAF has a different 5 prong wiring plug where the VR6 and stock use a 4 prong.

I have a 4.2 MAF from the same year Audi A8 as the one I need. The difference is in the engine code with one being AUX and the other being an AGU (I think). The one I have looks identical from the outside and even has the same style element.

Part number I need is

077 133 471 J (or JX)

I have

077 133 471 G

I would love to know the difference between them.

If someone would be so KIND and measure the inside diameter of the 077 133 471 J It would be awesome.

ddillenger

03-14-2013, 03:57 PM

Part number I need is

077 133 471 J (or JX)

I have

077 133 471 G

I would love to know the difference between them.

If someone would be so KIND and measure the inside diameter of the 077 133 471 J It would be awesome.

If you can find the VAG ecu number that uses each of those MAFs I'll look up the scaling and let you know if they're interchangable. Much better than just a diameter comparison.

zandrew

03-14-2013, 04:36 PM

If you can find the VAG ecu number that uses each of those MAFs I'll look up the scaling and let you know if they're interchangable. Much better than just a diameter comparison.

The engine codes I had listed above were not exactly right. I had dig for them since there is no AUX engine code.

Here is the ECU code for the one I have:

4D0 907 559 Bosch part number# 02611206202

The one I need:

4D0 907 557 M Bosch part number # 0261204627

They are both for the AKB engine code and the Audi A8 4.2. The J is for the 1997-98 and the G is for the 1999- 2000 ART and 2000 AKB Audi A8 4.2.

redline380

03-14-2013, 05:06 PM

REdline- With the AEB you have to use a MAF. There is no way around this. I don't know "who" you heard it from that all MAF elements are the same but they must not have looked very hard. Some run parrellel to the MAF housing and some perpendicular to it. Also the 4.2 MAF has a different 5 prong wiring plug where the VR6 and stock use a 4 prong.

first off, no you dont HAVE to use an maf if you swap to a 2001 ecu, harness and wideband oxy sensor. its been before plenty of times. i realize this would mean more money, but its the best option. look into it. and yes, i realize the elements are different. but you can use different ones in different housings. im saying to use the stock aeb maf element in a larger housing and scale it yourself.

zandrew

03-14-2013, 07:39 PM

first off, no you dont HAVE to use an maf if you swap to a 2001 ecu, harness and wideband oxy sensor. its been before plenty of times. i realize this would mean more money, but its the best option. look into it. and yes, i realize the elements are different. but you can use different ones in different housings. im saying to use the stock aeb maf element in a larger housing and scale it yourself.

I don't know why so much hate on MAF. There is nothing wrong with them and are a more accurate means of metering air flow. A MAP sensor simply makes guesses off of several circumstances, albeit very accurate guesses but none the less guesses. Also swapping to newer electronics is really not necessary. Yes there would be some nice upgraded features but the cost, too me does not outweigh the gains.

Rescaling the MAF too a new housing is a possibility but I think the MAF I have is going to be just fine with the 630cc file. I may need to scale it a bit but I am waiting to find out.

redline380

03-14-2013, 09:56 PM

Rescaling the MAF too a new housing is a possibility but I think the MAF I have is going to be just fine with the 630cc file. I may need to scale it a bit but I am waiting to find out.

waiting on what? lets get this shit figured out. ive been talking you into maestro for a couple months now. you wont be let down in the end. its an excellent program and you will love it once you get it running.

im not hating on maf's. i know they are better for tuning. i just think its so much easier to run without one. my afr's are fine, but the nice feature with maestro is you can tune a wideband ecu with an maf, then ditch it after tuning to make use of no intake tract. i just had mine tuned with no maf, but theres always the option to tune with an maf and ditch it later on

Mad Cow

03-14-2013, 10:26 PM

redline380

03-14-2013, 10:36 PM

MAFless on ME7.5 is a hack, pure and simple, you don't want to run it unless you absolutely have no choice. Just ask the guys on nefmoto about their opinion on MAFLess tunes. There's also much more to swapping in an ME7.5 setup into a car that was M3/5x, you have to do a decent amount of custom wiring and you still have to deal with the whole VVT issue, not worth it just to get rid of a MAF. However it is worth it for the tuning possibilities that it opens up, so if you want to go past whatever AEB Maestro lets you do it's a worthwhile investment.

mafless on me7 is a hack? guess my car is a hack than. you probably wouldnt say that if you rode in it though. as for it not being as simple as i make it sound, i know it isnt. im trying to talk zandrew into going wideband. im not really disclosing all the necessities for a reason, but it isnt really that hard. and vvt is zero issue. its a fricken box that you check or uncheck in meastro to check readiness. for some dumb reason i still run a vvt cct. if i ever get the motivation it will get changed to a regular cct that i have a laying around.

zandrew

03-14-2013, 10:45 PM

waiting on what? lets get this shit figured out. ive been talking you into maestro for a couple months now. you wont be let down in the end. its an excellent program and you will love it once you get it running.

im not hating on maf's. i know they are better for tuning. i just think its so much easier to run without one. my afr's are fine, but the nice feature with maestro is you can tune a wideband ecu with an maf, then ditch it after tuning to make use of no intake tract. i just had mine tuned with no maf, but theres always the option to tune with an maf and ditch it later on

I am waiting on DDillenger to look up the MAF scales for the MAF I have opposed to MAF I need. In all honesty I think they are going to be so close that the difference is going to be neglible. Then I need to locate the information on how to adapt this MAF over the stock one. Once that is complete just swap the rest of setup. I have everything except some minute parts and pieces and I am going to have to find out how I am going to make my TIP since I can't find one that works.

As for the Maestro its working fine and dandy. I have to get aquainted to it though.

My setup is going to run a ATP manifold with 3" test pipe and GT2871R turbo and large FMIC. The motor is still stock so I am going to keep my boost low so I don't pop this motor while building the next. ALso I will be on the Valeo single mass conversion so I am thinking 250 lb ft max.

redline- After speaking with RAI tuning on AEB is supposed to be easier and just as effective. Yes there are some nice features I am missing out on but also the fact that the tuning on the AEB is simpler since there are less things to get right if that makes sense.

redline380

03-14-2013, 10:57 PM

As for the Maestro its working fine and dandy. I have to get aquainted to it though.

ALAS! this is what we were all waiting for. now, you gotta get to tuning. not sure if you checked out the maestro forums, but they can be a huge help although most of the info is old.

you running the 440's? i know that the 630 tune for my car was a bit lean (tuner said WAY lean, o2 reading said about .82, so pretty decent) without tweaking. if you havent installed rods yet id limit the boost to 15psi. get the tune running perfect, swap in rods, and work from there. the difference between 15 and 22 psi on a 2871r is a ton of fun. if you are looking for help on maestro, aaronamerica is the guy to go to (guessing he wouldve chimed in by now, so he might not be interested in helping).

ddillenger

03-14-2013, 11:12 PM

Everything I have seen shows good to go. Offsets and voltages are identical in the files I looked at. If it were me, I'd give it a shot.

zandrew

03-14-2013, 11:31 PM

Everything I have seen shows good to go. Offsets and voltages are identical in the files I looked at. If it were me, I'd give it a shot.

Don't take this the wrong way but where did you actually get the info since this does not seem to be something listed anywhere specifically? I am not doubting you on it since the MAF I have looks identical to the other one listed and I would speculate that any difference may be in length or something else that is a non factor. I have seen way too many bad posts on other forums just to take whatever info at face value.

I just want to make sure you actually no what you are looking for.

ddillenger

03-14-2013, 11:48 PM

Don't take this the wrong way but where did you actually get the info since this does not seem to be something listed anywhere specifically?

MLHFM, linearization of MAF voltage. As for where I got it, I opened both files in a hex editor, found the maps, and compared them. Attached is a snippet of what I found. NOTE: The tables are 512 cells in size, my screen is not that big. The pic is just the first few rows (the one on the left is the actual value, the one on the right is the difference between the files-note the difference is 0, denoting identical tables), but rest assured they are all the same. (In the files I looked at. Didn't have the EXACT vag number for 559, so I used a similar file that used the same MAF part number)

http://i49.tinypic.com/2yyuuq8.jpg

Also, looking at the tables we can see both are bosch sensors given the start of the data. Bosch sensors use an offset (MLOFS) in order to compensate for a table that doesn't start @ zero (I'm oversimplifying this). If either table was for a hitachi sensor, we'd see a value of zero in the first few cells.

ddillenger

03-15-2013, 12:12 AM

mafless on me7 is a hack?

Yes, Mafless is a hack on me7. The maf is the primary load input. Just because you CAN eliminate it doesn't mean you should. There are people running in the Olympics with prosthetic legs, that doesn't mean we should all go chopping off perfectly good limbs.

Without the Maf the ecu has lost the ability to accurately calculate the airmass entering the engine and uses a form of alpha-n. The only time this would be beneficial is if you were tuning for insane power and the turbulence in the intake made using a MAF impractical. My definition of insane=500hp/liter or higher. Mafless on standalone is a completely different conversation, as they were designed with this configuration in mind.

If you think your car runs well without the MAF, get a tuner that knows what he's doing. You'll be amazed at the difference WITH the MAF.

vvt is zero issue. its a fricken box that you check or uncheck in meastro to check readiness.

Just because Maestro oversimplifies this doesn't mean it is. While you CAN zero the codeword for cam changeover (CDNWS), and change KFZW/KFZW2 (Timing maps for each cam state) to be identical, that still doesn't make it right. Bottom line, Maestro may be good in the limited scope it was intended, but for custom configurations it isn't the best choice. Not that Chris Tapp isn't a smart guy, I know he is. The issue is that the software had to be dumbed down so that the average person could understand what's going on. Learn to tune, you'll understand what I mean. Any software that allows you to "check boxes" isn't to be taken seriously.

I have my flamesuit on BTW, but rather than attacking me, refute my claims with clear evidence. I love a good debate, and hope this doesn't turn into a pissing contest.

zandrew

03-15-2013, 12:29 AM

And redline:

Mafless is a hack on me7. The maf is the primary load input. Just because you CAN eliminate it doesn't mean you should. There are people running in the Olympics with prosthetic legs, that doesn't mean they're better.

Thats just because he forget the hand cannon at home. Wait till the next olympics when I am sure if any dem fools get in front of him he will shoot them as supected robbers.......

On a more serious note can you compare the stock 1.8t MAF to the VR6 MAF? I am only curious as to what the difference is going to be.

ddillenger

03-15-2013, 12:45 AM

can you compare the stock 1.8t MAF to the VR6 MAF? I am only curious as to what the difference is going to be.

Assuming they are both the same brand sensor (bosch/bosch or hitachi/hitachi) the difference is going to be a percentage scale based on the increase in the cross-sectional area (again, oversimplifying, but basically correct). If you REALLY want to see the tables I'll take a look at the hex, but what you're asking for isn't a 30 second operation if the files aren't pre-defined (the first two OBSCURE vag numbers you gave me were not btw).

Give me the vag numbers (starting to see a pattern here?) of the cars that use the MAFs you'd like compared, and I will take a look when I get a chance.

zandrew

03-15-2013, 01:01 AM

Assuming they are both the same brand sensor (bosch/bosch or hitachi/hitachi) the difference is going to be a percentage scale based on the increase in the cross-sectional area (again, oversimplifying, but basically correct). If you REALLY want to see the tables I'll take a look at the hex, but what you're asking for isn't a 30 second operation if the files aren't pre-defined (the first two OBSCURE vag numbers you gave me were not btw).

Give me the vag numbers (starting to see a pattern here?) of the cars that use the MAFs you'd like compared, and I will take a look when I get a chance.

I was actually wanting t see just how accurate comparing the scale is in comparison to the cross sectional area since I know people that have upgraded the MAF and then scaled the injectors without issues.

On a side not I wonder what the odds, of the 2 MAF's that you did compare (the 4.2 V8 MAFs), are of them having a different pin out or a different voltage supply? One of the issues when swapping in the new MAF is you have to use a voltage regulator so I am wondering if the MAF I have may have a difference as well?

ddillenger

03-15-2013, 01:09 AM

I was actually wanting t see just how accurate comparing the scale is in comparison to the cross sectional area since I know people that have upgraded the MAF and then scaled the injectors without issues.

On a side not I wonder what the odds, of the 2 MAF's that you did compare (the 4.2 V8 MAFs), are of them having a different pin out or a different voltage supply? One of the issues when swapping in the new MAF is you have to use a voltage regulator so I am wondering if the MAF I have may have a difference as well?

The pinouts are the same between the two MAFs. They are both bosch, and they use the same plugs. As for voltage supply, they both used a 5 volt reference. The output voltage varies based on airflow over the sensor. The scaling allows for a change in diameter by adjusting the values that the output voltage coincides with.

As for changing the MAF without adjusting for it, just because it didn't throw a code doesn't mean it was ideal. The ecu has the ability to adjust fuel trims 25 percent in either direction, so although not optimal, it did compensate. While adjusting the fueling might get your idle trims close, part throtte/WOT could still be wonky. If you're interested in WHY you're doing what you're doing, try the s4 tuning wiki. Invaluable source of info. While it is based on the s4 platform which uses me7.1, it still contains relevant information.

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning

rockersteady

03-15-2013, 05:51 AM

Hmmm.... I am pretty sure you are wrong on this. Open the file that uses the stock MAF and injectors and compare that MAF scale to the one with 440 injectors also labeled stock MAF. Considerable difference in MAF scale.

Also when I asked Eurodyne they commented that it is VR6 MAF.

Maybe I am, maybe not, But your going off what Chris "said". Ive actually run it, and using the supplied MAF MAP (Described as a "stock sensor"in the base file description) it doesn't work, Its out. both as a stock sensor in stock housing and as stock sensor in a VR6 housing

Ive since re-scaled the maf profile and it ran/runs in 3" housing in 4 different AEB cars that use 3 different turbos, stock, K04 Hybrid and 2 x GT28elim series, scaled for correct voltage vs air mass and they all work.

Poopie

03-15-2013, 06:28 AM

i would be in favor of running a MAF on my car. I just couldn't fit the 4in plumbing with the Comp Turbo CHRA. Its just too long. What can ya do though aside from a new manifold.

Seerlah

03-15-2013, 08:17 AM

^I plan on placing a MAF back in when I start to custom tune my car and upgrade to the Eurodyne Suite from my OTS tune. The V8 MAF should be 3.5" OD, so you think using a reducer would cause a restriction. Here is a pic of Andrew's car (Wet0willy01) with a 4" inlet on his compressor housing for reference. Dougyfresh also did it with his side mounted manifold.

Wet0willi01
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee458/wet0willy01/DSC_0055.jpg

dougyfresh
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4009/4573042800_4f81bc073c_z.jpg

OP, pardon for the thread jack!!!

zandrew

03-15-2013, 09:56 AM

No thread jack. I was wanting to see some custom installs of the MAF. I am planning on curling my own back towards the stock postition running 3" tubing. I HAVE to run the BOV in recirc mode though.

Seerlah

03-15-2013, 10:07 AM

Here is also a write up for the V8 integration. Save you the trouble of looking later on.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/397742-Making-an-Audi-V8-MAF-Harness-for-your-BAT-Project

redline380

03-15-2013, 10:10 AM

I have my flamesuit on BTW, but rather than attacking me, refute my claims with clear evidence. I love a good debate, and hope this doesn't turn into a pissing contest.

i wont attack you because i dont know that much about tuning cars. i understand that running an maf will yield smoother results, after all its in there for a reason from the factory. i just wouldnt call running mafless on me7 a hack. my car runs just fine without. thats why i wouldnt call it a hack. but like you said it could be better. my tuner has my afr's like 10 under wot and im guessing he might have felt more comfortable to raise it up if there was an maf. however it was my choice to run without one. i made that choice because of the trouble others have had getting the maf to work properly on there cars (this thread is a good example, but there are better ones). i wanted to keep the clutter out of my engine bay, for aesthetic purposes and because the less parts there are that need to function the less that can go wrong.

as for the vvt, ill stand my ground on that. we all know its pointless on audi's. it isnt vtec. if it was vtec, hell yeah id keep it and use it. vtec could come in very handy. i think maestro as software is a great, user freindly product for people like me who know just enough to get by. i havent changed that much stuff on my own. i may look into more but i have a professional tune that i am satisfied with currently. i am smart enough to go standalone but i dont see me spending the time how to take care of it properly and learning how to tune it properly. that is why i have maestro. if you dont agree with any of this, i hope you agree maestro is far better that any ots tune unless you run EXACTLY what the ots tune calls for.

Seerlah

03-15-2013, 10:22 AM

my tuner has my afr's like 10 under wot and im guessing he might have felt more comfortable to raise it up if there was an maf.

That is really rich. My AF gauge is the bottom left (don't mind the power and where I shifted. fixing my restrictions as we speak and still used to shifting there from my stock turbo days). My idle has also always been a tad rich. Never logged, but the LC-1 I used to run and the AEM I currently run grant the same readings. And the only reason I want to get a MAF is for better gas consumption. But honestly, a competent tuner can do that MAFless on the ME7. Aaron (thenj3) was getting like 30mpg running his ME7 suite, on a 2.0L 058 block, MAFless, and tuned to like 30psi on his turbo (I rode in his car and the thing was a beast). I really want to do it for tuning purposes, then maybe switch to MAFless again later on. Less crap to worry about. Plus that BOV vent noise can get annoying after a while (unless you like that stuff). But OP is narrowband and needs the MAF.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9UIK2IhEII

More thread jack [:p]. Pardon!

034Motorsport

03-15-2013, 10:42 AM

Yes, Mafless is a hack on me7. The maf is the primary load input. Just because you CAN eliminate it doesn't mean you should. There are people running in the Olympics with prosthetic legs, that doesn't mean we should all go chopping off perfectly good limbs.

Without the Maf the ecu has lost the ability to accurately calculate the airmass entering the engine and uses a form of alpha-n. The only time this would be beneficial is if you were tuning for insane power and the turbulence in the intake made using a MAF impractical. My definition of insane=500hp/liter or higher. Mafless on standalone is a completely different conversation, as they were designed with this configuration in mind.

If you think your car runs well without the MAF, get a tuner that knows what he's doing. You'll be amazed at the difference WITH the MAF.

Wholeheartedly agree with dillenger; standalones are designed around speed density. Just because you "can" go MAFless on Motronic doesn't mean you should. People go MAFless when they can't properly tune a car with a MAF, be it due to the lack of space (not an excuse in my book) or because they are maxing out a MAF and not willing to use a proper sensor / scaling (we use a custom sensor for our AEB tunes that are over 350whp that enables us to get stock driveability but flow over 600whp).

Another thing people always forget is that if you're willing to scale MAF values, why not go with a Blow Through setup? No worry of space constraints or anything, and you could run a blow off valve with the Motronic without worry of losing metered air. Can't simply relocate the MAF to the pressure side and be done, but it's not out of the realm of some people's skills here.

I don't necessarily recommend blowing through the Bosch MAF, but there are other sensors designed for either.

I'm not saying MAFless doesn't work for some people, just like Dillenger mentioned this, but if you want something to work well over a huge range of varying conditions and inputs, a MAF sensor is the way to go.

chris164935

03-15-2013, 11:20 PM

Seerlah, is that your car in the video? That car sounds like it has compressor surge issues...

Sorry to thread jack.
Glad to see everything is starting to work out for the OP though.

redline380

03-15-2013, 11:28 PM

Glad to see everything is starting to work out for the OP though.

this thread was long overdue for multiple reasons. a couple reasons would be clearing up general questions about maestro, getting the word out about the program, and (hopefully) creating an eventual contributing member. if zandrew cools down a bit, learns from the people who can help him as well as learning from maestro, i think he will be a great audi community guy. seems like he has quite a bit of knowledge already, he just needs to chill a bit and learn how to coexist with people on the interwebz.

Seerlah

03-15-2013, 11:42 PM

Seerlah, is that your car in the video? That car sounds like it has compressor surge issues...

Sorry to thread jack.
Glad to see everything is starting to work out for the OP though.

That is the bov. I used to think that at first too. My Forge 004 was way worse (001 installed). Well, let's hope that is the issue. My BOV is right at my compressor housing outlet. And I mean right there, with a t-coupler. Going to have it placed by the TB in a couple weeks after my fmic install. We'll see if the noise is still there afterwards.

Another thread jack [:p]

this thread was long overdue for multiple reasons. a couple reasons would be clearing up general questions about maestro, getting the word out about the program, and (hopefully) creating an eventual contributing member. if zandrew cools down a bit, learns from the people who can help him as well as learning from maestro, i think he will be a great audi community guy. seems like he has quite a bit of knowledge already, he just needs to chill a bit and learn how to coexist with people on the interwebz.

This [cool]. Though it seems he has calmed down a bit. That is why I decided to post in his thread. As I stated prior OP, people are here to help you.

ddillenger

03-16-2013, 12:31 AM

people are here to help you.

Not me. I'm here to drink beer and fornicate.

I kid, I kid [:)]

zandrew

03-16-2013, 06:45 AM

mysman

03-16-2013, 06:54 AM

Not me. I'm here to drink beer and fornicate.

I kid, I kid [:)]

Actually, it's the first time I've seen hexadecimal code on Audizine. Sure you're not drinking, lol?

Mad Cow

03-16-2013, 07:14 AM

Yeah yeah yeah, I am an ass hole. Someone has to be it. Keeps shit in balance.

Still you guys REALLy don't understand the aggravation that shit caused me. It would not have been so bad but when you know you are doing what you are supposed too and it still comes out wrong it is frustrating. Especially now that the program takes on my computer that it wouldn't before.

I can understand the frustration, but you have to remember that Maestro was made by a tiny group of people, they simply can't do the amount of quality control that the big guys can. Its high price makes people forget that all they're really paying for is the fact that someone bundled together all these tuning-related services (flashing/reading, base tunes, map modification, etc) into one easy to use (compared to all the other options) piece of software. I went through countless issues trying to read my flash and modify it, much more complex problems than a piece of software not starting, but that's the price I pay for doing it for free.

spindoctor

03-16-2013, 06:27 PM

No thread jack. I was wanting to see some custom installs of the MAF. I am planning on curling my own back towards the stock postition running 3" tubing. I HAVE to run the BOV in recirc mode though.

Kinda off topic but just showing you what I did to mine:-

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/7247a089.jpg

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/beb8578f.jpg

From the turbo, it consist of a 90 degree reducer hose ie 3.5inch to 3inch(turbo inlet size), 90degree 3.5inch aluminium pipe and a 1inch(can't remember exactly) pipe welded on the side for recirculation. Air filter is an AEM dry flow.

Hope that helps

Haven't got the time to make up a heat shield for it but will definitely make one up soon.

zandrew

03-16-2013, 08:38 PM

spindoctor

03-16-2013, 08:51 PM

Spindoctor- How do you like the 20G turbo? By chance do you have a dyno? The 20G with Billet compressor was my first choice and I actually have one. I need to get the comp and turbine housing for it but it looks like a very good match to the Audi A4.

Haven't dynoed it yet cause the engine is not healthy at the moment, incomplete hardware to support the airflow the turbo is pushing, not mentioning priorities I've got to attend to.

Mine's a cast wheel. Where did you get your billet comp wheel 20G from? Snail turbo? They offered me an extended tip for my 20G sometime ago.

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/D7DE1BF4-E862-4A7A-B78E-ECB8961084D5-488-0000009F280EE57C.jpg

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/DB4DB916-EFD7-465B-AE5C-3CFD782DEF80-488-0000009FBB2CAB0A.jpg

Assuming you have a genuine TD05H CHRA, I can link you a seller on eBay who sells compressor and turbine housing. They've just released a T25 flanged housing for the TD05H and it has a V-band exhaust outlet. iirc, they're 8cm2, which I gather is a 0.57 A/R. They're currently out of stock till late April.

zandrew

03-16-2013, 09:11 PM

Haven't dynoed it yet cause the engine is not healthy at the moment, incomplete hardware to support the airflow the turbo is pushing, not mentioning priorities I've got to attend to.

Mine's a cast wheel. Where did you get your billet comp wheel 20G from? Snail turbo? They offered me an extended tip for my 20G sometime ago.

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/D7DE1BF4-E862-4A7A-B78E-ECB8961084D5-488-0000009F280EE57C.jpg

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/DB4DB916-EFD7-465B-AE5C-3CFD782DEF80-488-0000009FBB2CAB0A.jpg

Assuming you have a genuine TD05H CHRA, I can link you a seller on eBay who sells compressor and turbine housing. They've just released a T25 flanged housing for the TD05H and it has a V-band exhaust outlet. iirc, they're 8cm2, which I gather is a 0.57 A/R. They're currently out of stock till late April.

That was basically my plan. I was going to run the T25 TD05H style turbine housing and compressor housing. I did not go with Snail. There is another seller that sells them for $120 shipped an they are very imprssive quality. Also I don't like how Snail changes the design without conclusively knowing the effects. You can not buy that compressor and use the 20G compressor MAP for anything since they vary greatly.

I now have a GT2871R that I plan on running. My TD05H has a brand new MHI TD05H turbine and is in a MHI bearing housing.

Seerlah

03-16-2013, 09:27 PM

zandrew

03-16-2013, 10:13 PM

We are basically in the same boat. I'm running the same turbo (T3 GT2871R .63 A/R). Currently fixing little things like an upgraded FMIC (currently running a custom SMIC setup) and relocating my BOV to the cold side (should be done in the next couple weeks). I have the Eurodyne OTS tune running 21psi, and will upgrade to the Suite with a custom tune (will be done by a forum member) with V8 MAF (most likely, but he can tune without it) at around 28psi on straight 93 in the summer. Trying to get around 320whp with my current setup and enjoy that for a while before I upgrade my turbo. Redline380 is also running this same turbo using the ME7 Suite, with a T25 flange.

I do hope you have at least forged rods in your block?

I actually don't have them in yet. That is why I plan on running 15psi for awhile. I am just going to buy a used long block and rebuild it with some suttle upgrades like coated bearings and pistons, clean up of ports, replaced exhaust valves and coated lifters, and upgraded hardware. I will most likely go ahead and upgrade the pistons and intake manifold so that I can push even more hp without stressing things.

I have seen plenty of 300awhp A4's without upgraded rods. Some with high mileage and still running fine. To my knowledge the torque seems to kill these motors.

Seerlah

03-17-2013, 12:37 AM

spindoctor

03-17-2013, 12:53 AM

There are plenty of A4s on the stock block with 300whp. But there are also plenty that blew their engine with both less and more power than that. Guess one could say it is all in the tuning, health of engine, and supporting mods. I don't know.

IMO, with the stock rods on an AEB(beefier rods than the ATW/AWM) plus the safe/conservative timing of the base file, I wouldn't be too worried pushing 18psi max as long as you don't rev the tits out of it and run shit fuel.

I was running 13psi then and winding it up to 18psi felt so good.

M-Hood

03-17-2013, 12:40 PM

IMO, with the stock rods on an AEB(beefier rods than the ATW/AWM) plus the safe/conservative timing of the base file, I wouldn't be too worried pushing 18psi max as long as you don't rev the tits out of it and run shit fuel.

I was running 13psi then and winding it up to 18psi felt so good.

Danny the 1.8t stock rods are all exactly the same in thickness so one is not stronger then the other, the only difference between the different stock rods is the wrist pin size and that isn't even a weak point of the rod. This is why there are plenty of B6 owners that have made 330whp on the stock 19mm wrist pin rods.

The weak point of the stock 1.8t rod is the neck which is the thinnest spot on the rod. This is the spot that bends till it breaks.

Operator

03-18-2013, 01:19 PM

Yeh, seeing the bend catches your eye!!!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/a4ringedone8t/1552/DSC07610resized.jpg

spindoctor

03-18-2013, 05:19 PM

Yeh, seeing the bend catches your eye!!!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/a4ringedone8t/1552/DSC07610resized.jpg

What bend :p lol

Was digging around and found this

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/8841DB93-A644-4717-A81B-5A67125C27C6-180-0000000900E9718D.jpg

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/3F1CA687-2F9F-4B53-9839-D5C76CBEB7DB-180-0000000A27A33001.jpg

http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/revhead19/0A788196-5D96-4968-98BF-9B8B1C38BB7D-180-0000000A2624BA09.jpg

Now back to topic,

Does your fuel pump prime when key in IGN on?

Urtorsen

04-26-2013, 01:43 AM

Any updates on this???o

zandrew

04-26-2013, 06:28 PM

I actually got the package working and I am currently using it on my car. I have GT2871R with the 630cc file running the V8 maf that I had which is a G instead of the J that was recommended. Its not running the best but I have a lot of little things to get fixed. My S pipe breather is crapped out so I have leak after the MAF. My intercooler piping contiues to pop off when I get up to 14psi. My cam chain tensioner is rattling so bad it is probably setting off the knock sensor.

spindoctor

04-27-2013, 02:50 AM

You have idle issues or hot/cold start issues? Or like flat spots?

I had hot start issues and tweaked the cranking constant from the default number of 930(iirc) up to 1800, which didn't work. Wind it up further to 2200 also didn't work and ended up going to 800 or 850(iirc) and it works alright for me. What's annoying is I have no indication wtf this does but it does help the hot start lol

Have a read at the AEB+maestro thread. Heaps of good info there.

Oh yeah, I agree Ctapp sucks with technical help but he did reply my email and said that the base tune for the 630cc Audi V8 MAF for AEB was calibrated with a 4 bar FPR.

HTH

Danny

zandrew

04-27-2013, 08:43 PM

The idle on the car is perfect. Even when the intercooler couplers pop off it is perfect. I just have maintenance issues that I need to fix and my test pipe is rubbing the tunnel it drops down through. When I let off the gas My RPM's jump for a brief second before dropping. It is weird drving the car now compared to the K04. Very different to say the least.

I have not taken the car past 5000 RPM and it is making 20psi at that RPM which is quite scary (bent rods scary). What is the max psi of the base file?

I am going to replace the timing tensioner. Clean up and eliminate all the emissions I can. Maybe rework the test pipe. Try to limit boost too 15psi (later to 18psi on the stock block). Get my cold side intercooler plumbing welded up.

Can you eliminate the N75 without setting off a CEL?

spindoctor

04-27-2013, 09:36 PM

Coming from a K03 straight to a TD05H, yeah it feels weird. At first i find it very laggy(was running spring pressure ie 13psi), wind it up and it felt a lot better :D

You could run a manual boost controller or electronic no worries. What you gotta do is just leave the N75 plug connected and the signal lines to the

I pegged the boost at 16-18psi with a Gizzmo EBC cause the clutch is slipping, haven't got a descent intercooler yet, and want the engine to handle 28psi'ish boost from the 20G.

ZimbutheMonkey

04-27-2013, 11:32 PM

Wholeheartedly agree with dillenger; standalones are designed around speed density. Just because you "can" go MAFless on Motronic doesn't mean you should. People go MAFless when they can't properly tune a car with a MAF, be it due to the lack of space (not an excuse in my book) or because they are maxing out a MAF and not willing to use a proper sensor / scaling (we use a custom sensor for our AEB tunes that are over 350whp that enables us to get stock driveability but flow over 600whp).

So, question then, how much does an S4 MAF flow then? I would think it's good for more than 350WHP? (Just trying to figure out why you would go with the custom sensor instead of the B6 S4 unit?)

ZimbutheMonkey

04-27-2013, 11:37 PM

Danny the 1.8t stock rods are all exactly the same in thickness so one is not stronger then the other, the only difference between the different stock rods is the wrist pin size and that isn't even a weak point of the rod. This is why there are plenty of B6 owners that have made 330whp on the stock 19mm wrist pin rods.

The weak point of the stock 1.8t rod is the neck which is the thinnest spot on the rod. This is the spot that bends till it breaks.

You know, one thing that no one's ever discussed though, is the material that the rods are made of. Has anyone ever gotten data regarding the metallurgy and casting processes of the 19 and 20 mm rods

Seerlah

08-02-2013, 06:35 PM

zandrew

08-03-2013, 09:40 AM

Just bumping this to say people in this thread was on point. Was having the same issue, read the first couple posts and solved my issue right away.

1) remove all software from Eurodyne you tried to download
2) reboot computer
3) download proper microsoft network (I needed 3.5)
4) step number 3 is very important, as that is most likely the issue. was for me.
5) download Eurodyne software again
6) pat yourself on the back for being a damn genius [cool]

I am actually about 100% sure the issue I was expierencing with loading the software was not related to compability. I think either there was ugrade or some other maintenance being done to the system since after I downloaded it to the computer it should not have worked on it also starting working on the other computer I tried first. Maybe a network connection. I literally tried to dl it a dozen times from my main computer and then out of nowhere it sarted to work.

I am having a new issue now. After swapping in my 5552 and going with a modified tune to accomadate the 3 bar FPR I datalogged the first run but now it will not let me reload a new tune or even datalog. The error comes up "failure to read header".