DIY: Fuel Pump Control Module

[BenMTL]

Hey guys, one day my car shut off on the highway (more details HERE (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/524594-Electric-Gremlims?)) and produced several error codes relating to a possible electrical problem with my fuel delivery system. It was not pressure I assumed because the car ran perfectly fine....when it ran at all. The codes were P3089 and more specificaly, it said "P025C fuel pump control module, short to ground". Ross Tech says (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19545/P3089/012425);

19545/P3089/012425 - Signal Line for Fuel Pump Electronics: Electrical Malfunction
Possible Solutions:
Check/Replace Transfer Fuel Pump (G6). See Special Notes
Check/Replace Fuel Pump (FP) Control Module (J538).

Part Numbers (6 speed 2.0T BPG):
Module = 4F0-906093-F (I had an old revision A in there)
Pump = 8E0-919-051-CQ
Clips = 4B0-886-373-01C (2 plastic clips that hold the rear seats down, if you break them like I did)


The fuel pump control module is a $250 part while the low pressure (in tank) fuel pump itself is $400 so I wanted to replace just the module. Note that if you want to get it locally, your dealership will most likely not stock it so will need 2-3 days to get it in. Even GAP did not stock it. Also note this DIY is ONLY for AWD vehicles. If you need to replace your module on a FWD B7, consider yourself lucky. All you have to do is remove the bottom carpet trunk liner, remove the 3 screws holding a black cover in place on the floor of the trunk, and your fuel pump control module is attached to the underside of that cover. For AWD B7s, follow the steps below.

1) The annoying thing is about an electrical failure in the fuel delivery system is that it is usually intermittant before it completely dies. This means your car might driver perfectly fine for days, before randomly dying on you. You can choose to just buy the control module or get the pump along with it to only have to open everything once and to remove both potential causes of the issue. I choose to only replace the module in an attempt to save $400, but the ECU really can't tell which is the problem so I may have to replace my pump anyway. Also note that the control module is a random part to go and might regardless of stage x, how you drive it, climate, etc. It is an electrical component that can just go whenever unfortunetly when it does, your car is too risky to drive at all.

2) To access the top of the fuel tank, you have to remove the rear seat cover which is held in place by 2 plastic clips. How to remove the rear seat bottom cover is detailed HERE (http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/fuelpump.html).

http://www.a4mods.com/pics/fuelpump/pic3.jpg

3) After hours of looking, the fuel pump control module is between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the rear seat cover:

http://i.imgur.com/Beusy8A.jpg

As you can tell from the picture, it has its own little snug compartment and is held in place with 2 screws that you remove from the top.

4) If you are just replacing the module, you don't have to remove the 2 fuel lines. You can just disconnect the electrical connection the arrow is pointing to in the previous picture. Later, you will have to undo those 2 screws, and pull out the module by its cable.

5) That area is very tight however and you won't be able to pull out the module until you drop the fuel tank a bit. For this, lift the back of the car up, go under it, and undo some of the screws on the underside of the car that secure the big black fuel tank. I undid 5-6 or so. I went back to the top of the fuel tank, and was able to push down on the top of the tank while pulling (softly) on the cable to get the module out.

6) Disconnect the old module from the wiring harness and plug in the new one. Screwing it back in place through the top if a little tricky but try holding it in place by sliding your hand in between the module and the top of the fuel tank.

7) If you are planning on replacing the pump, you have to remove the fuel lines and the process is overal detailed better in the previously linked A4Mods guide that I suggest you read. Their guide is based on a B6 but after looking at the B7 setup, I can confirm it is the same.

8) Reassemble in reverse order and try it [:D]

I had replaced my factory fuel filter just 5k ago or so with a MANN one but our fuel filters do have some kind of internal electrical component that is prone to failure in MANN filters so just in case, I swapped it with an OEM one as well. Additional pictures below.


http://i.imgur.com/r6w7n6vl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1PhvWgm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sidwy7h.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lkKuDcw.png

[TexasAj]

Hello Ben, did it fix the fuel pump problem? I am having the same code as yours.

[BenMTL]

Looks like there never was a problem with my fuel pump....I replaced this control module and all the problems and error codes went away [:)]

[Likmywagon]

Hi hopefully I'm not hijacking this (short) thread but you seem to know a fair bit about this topic and I could use a little help. I'm trying to diagnose a P0089 (VAG P310B) code on my 2007 Audi A4, not your specific situation but similar. I've already replaced the HPFP, G410 and the fuel filter and had some other diagnostics done at the Audi Dealership. I've been told, by Audi, it's either the LPFP or the Fuel Pump Control module. Wasn't exactly sure what the control module was until I read your thread so that helped. I did a short test run logging blocks 101, 103 and 106 with VCDS. Is it odd that the LPFP only ran an electrical % between the 83% at 12% engine load (idle) and 94% electrical at an engine load of %167 (WOT)? I've read elsewhere that the LPFP at idle should be about %50 and if it isn't it's shot but couldn't the module be the problem telling the pump to run at that rate at idle? The dealership did some pressure checks and they seemed ok.

There aren't any real driveability issues except maybe a little uneven power at full throttle with a cool (but not cold) engine that seems fine when it's at full temp. The check engine light sometimes clears itself and I've had the cam follower checked so I'm not too worried about driving for how I just hate having the MIL on. I have the .CSV file from the test run but I don't see how, if at all I can attach it to this post but here is a snapshot at idle FWIW.

9:04:24 Group 101
720 /min Engine Speed
12.8 % Engine Load
0.77 ms Median injection timing
1.75 g/s Intake Air Mass

19:04:24 Group 103
4.75 bar Current Fuel Pressure
4000 Fuel Pressure Regulator
3000 Adaptation Value elect. Fuel Pump
ADP. Run Demand controlled Fuel Pump Adapt.

19:04:24 Group 106
49.96 bar Fuel Rail Pressure
82.7 % Electrical Fuel Pump 1
Electrical Fuel Pump 2
655.35 s Time

[BenMTL]

^That error code is well known issue and is totally different from the one described in this thread.

In general however, I found that it is hard to tell the difference between a problem with the LPFP controller and the LPFP itself. I only replaced the controller first because it is cheaper and hope it solves your problem. If not, you just have to suck it up and replace the LPFP as well...

[KingWulfgar]

Replace your LPFP. Your duty cycle is too high. Same thing happened to me a couple years ago.

[Likmywagon]

Duh [confused] the PN was in one of your pics, thanks again.



- - - Updated - - -


^That error code is well known issue and is totally different from the one described in this thread.

In general however, I found that it is hard to tell the difference between a problem with the LPFP controller and the LPFP itself. I only replaced the controller first because it is cheaper and hope it solves your problem. If not, you just have to suck it up and replace the LPFP as well...

Thanks great info on replacing the unit BTW do you have a PN and maybe a source for a 2007 A4 2.0 wagon quattro? I'm in Toronto and usually deal with ECS tuning but they don't seem to have the module listed on their web page?

[Likmywagon]

Replace your LPFP. Your duty cycle is too high. Same thing happened to me a couple years ago.


How do you rule out the module? The pressures seem good in the data dump and at 160% load the electric fuel pump is running 94%.

[KingWulfgar]

How do you rule out the module? The pressures seem good in the data dump and at 160% load the electric fuel pump is running 94%.

Your FF above shows the pump running at 82% with a 12% load. That plus P0089/310B are pretty indicative of the pump itself. Had mine replaced twice (the first one failed within a year), so I've been through this problem. There's a lot more to go wrong with the pump than the controller and they're about the same price. My money's on the pump.

Is this the controller you're looking for? https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/ES392985/

Here's the VDO pump. The OE one is just a bit more money: https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/ES2636080/

[KNakamura24]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but it made more sense than to start an new one on something that was previously covered... I have a 2007 A4 B7 Quattro. I am going through all the same stuff which requires a LPFP replacement. Since I don't want to mess with it again for a long time, I decided to change the controller module at the same time. I have everything on order and will get it next week. Your original post helped me find the module, but for some reason, I don't have the little access panel like in your picture. I found the 2 Allen screws in the same location, but there isn't an access cover. I measured the distance between the screws and they match up to the new module.

The only 2 access covers are the ones on the driver and passenger side. The one on the passenger side exposes the LPFP and the one on the driver's side exposes a single connector which (I'm guessing) goes to either another pump or a fuel level sender. This tank is a split design because of the quattro.

It looks like the only way to replace the module is to drop the entire fuel tank... UGH!

I'm posting this to help anyone else who has the same issue.

I'll take some pics when I do the install on Monday...

Also, I found a way to drain the tank using a manual pump since the tank was full and I needed to get it below half to avoid fuel going everywhere when I pull the LPFP... I'll post pics of that as well.

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[BenMTL]

"It looks like the only way to replace the module is to drop the entire fuel tank... UGH!"

If Quattro, yes that is correct.

However, you do not need to drop it completely...There are straps holding it in place, get under the car, loose all the bolts a bit, and you can then pull out the controller from the top just fine.

I replaced my controller without fully removing my tank [:)]

[EvolutionArmory]

You do not have to drop the tank at all if you aren’t afraid to bend some sheet metal 😀

I had my RS4 module in the car in 15 minutes in the driveway. Bend sheet metal, take out module, put in new module, hammer the sheet metal back down with a rubber mallet, put touch up paint on any scratches and seal her up.

It will be much easier to take out the module (less bending) with the fuel pump out.

[ChanceA4Parks]

B7

[Krmass25]

So it's easy to take the fuel pump out and when it's out the module is right there? Sounds easy.

[EvolutionArmory]

So it's easy to take the fuel pump out and when it's out the module is right there? Sounds easy.

If you aren’t afraid to bend the sheet metal up to wiggle it out, it’s easy. You don’t have to remove the fuel pump either if you bend up the metal. It just gives you a little more room if it’s out already. This is the quick and dirty method.

If you don’t want to do that, and I can see why some wouldn’t, it’s harder because you should drop the fuel tank down a couple inches to gain more access. This is really the proper way to do it even though it’s more difficult.

[vvenom800tt]

If you aren’t afraid to bend the sheet metal up to wiggle it out, it’s easy. You don’t have to remove the fuel pump either if you bend up the metal. It just gives you a little more room if it’s out already. This is the quick and dirty method.

If you don’t want to do that, and I can see why some wouldn’t, it’s harder because you should drop the fuel tank down a couple inches to gain more access. This is really the proper way to do it even though it’s more difficult.When i did mine i was tempted to cut away some of the metal above the controller. Leaving the screw holes of course. Would make it super easy in the future.

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[Krmass25]

I'm leaving it and using the CM5 fuel controller to manage everything. It can retain the factory settings or go into full independant mode and you retain the factory system without having to hack or remove anything (besides your old fuel pump)

[EvolutionArmory]

I'm leaving it and using the CM5 fuel controller to manage everything. It can retain the factory settings or go into full independant mode and you retain the factory system without having to hack or remove anything (besides your old fuel pump)

Hopefully someone still has the CM5 in stock because it has been removed from Torqbyte’s website. All they have on there is the PM4. I think they discontinued the PM3 and CM5 when they released the PM4.

[al3k]

I dont think they discontinued the PM3 since PM3 vs PM4 are two different kind of things, PM3 only takes a PWM signal input and outputs it exactly the same, but it can handle more amps so you can use it with anything that is 12v PWM signal based, while the PM4 is designed spesificly to act as a fuel controller in audi/vw applications.
The CM5/CM5-LT can also do a lot of cool things that the Pm4 cant, you can set it up to control secondary injectors, boost control, water/meth injecion control, activate light or switches, read sensors++ all programable with 3d map or rules.

[EvolutionArmory]

I emailed TB last year. PM3 is being phased out or already is. It’s not on the website anymore.

CM5 isn’t on their site anymore either. Only the LT meth controller. I’m just guessing on the CM5 being discontinued though. I didn’t talk about that with them so I don’t know but it makes sense since it’s not on the site.

[EvolutionArmory]

Their reply to me when I asked what product of theirs would be best to run on the stock fuel pump, PM3 or PM4

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/zeddirte/40DAB38B-EAE8-44BF-8FB6-0CCDAF953FA5.png (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/zeddirte/media/40DAB38B-EAE8-44BF-8FB6-0CCDAF953FA5.png.html)

[Krmass25]

Well it seems that they know what they are doing and aren't going out of business so maybe something new is coming out

[vvenom800tt]

Their reply to me when I asked what product of theirs would be best to run on the stock fuel pump, PM3 or PM4

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/zeddirte/40DAB38B-EAE8-44BF-8FB6-0CCDAF953FA5.png (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/zeddirte/media/40DAB38B-EAE8-44BF-8FB6-0CCDAF953FA5.png.html)This is good news. Also it gives ke.more incentive to buy a JHM upgraded LPFP down the road.

Ill show you the email i got from Motoza

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[vvenom800tt]

Response from Motoza when i asked about upgrading my fuel system one thing at a time before eventually going K04.110040

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[EvolutionArmory]

Well it seems that they know what they are doing and aren't going out of business so maybe something new is coming out

Something new did come out. The PM4.

[aviator79]

Wifes a4 b7 died on the side of the road yesterday, (Saturday) at 6am. She said car lost power as in car would not respond to gas pedal and dash went dim. I had assumed lpfp issues before talking to her just cause it only thing iv yet to habe to work on. Just did rear bearings last week to finally solve squeal it had been making.

After reserching saterday I bought a fuel pump controller as seemed to me most likely reason car would die like that.

After talking to her this morning she said starter would not turn after car died. AAA towed home and with the way she discribed it to tow truck driver he said sounds like alternator. Im like shit i guess i should have waited but luckily battery seems fine so not sure why starter would not turn. Starter cranks fine now but wont start so alternotor not issue.

Im pretty sure fuel pump should run when you open door? I recall hearing before but dont drive car so its hard for me to remember. I dont hear it now.

It did get a CEL Thursday and almost died she said, but was fine after she turned off AC. I was going to pull codes Friday but she had to go out...i can pull codes today. I could have gotten a fuel pump controller from eeuroparts or FCP monday as i live in CT, but figured since i could not get this weekend I might as well order one online for $100 as was $20 less. Got a fuel filter also. It may be fuel pump or something else but think its likely module...wish i had a spare to test today but i dont know anyone with a B7 A4.

[EvolutionArmory]

Why would you order anything without reading the codes or doing any sort of diagnostic work?

[aviator79]

Why would you order anything without reading the codes or doing any sort of diagnostic work?

I work too much and have no time. Worst case I have a spare part.

However, when I crank starter it does not even sound like engine is turning over. I see acc belt spin so I know it is. But there is no indication cylinders are making compression. I did timing belt when I bought it at 80k. @ 129k. Wonder if it let go and why sounds like that. Going to do comp test now. Thinking its fuked...

Here is a scan log I just took. Im not sure what caused CEL.


Sunday,09,June,2019,20:33:27:52553
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.0.4 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4505.4
Data version: 20190529 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAUDF78E86A223136 License Plate: A
Mileage: 208630km-129636mi Repair Order:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
67 69 75 76 77

VIN: WAUDF78E86A223136 Mileage: 208630km-129636miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels:. 06F-907-115-AXX.clb
Part No SW: 8E0 910 115 M HW: 8E0 907 115 D
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0070
Revision: --H13--- Serial number:
Coding: 0104010A190F0120
Shop #: WSC 08316 444 91219
VCID: 2B000D294F09E4CF4F5-807E

4 Faults Found:
012417 - Engine Temperature too Low
P3081 - 008 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 26
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 207034 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3000 /min
Load: 96.8 %
Speed: 104.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0°C
Temperature: 41.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.462 V

001299 - Incorrect Immobilizer Key
P0513 - 008 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 208150 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1146 /min
Load: 20.4 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 48.0°C
Temperature: 51.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.065 V

000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)
P000A - 008 - Slow Response
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 208638 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2822 /min
Load: 48.2 %
Speed: 131.0 km/h
Temperature: 92.0°C
Temperature: 20.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0322 - 008 - No Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 208638 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2421 /min
Load: 29.0 %
Speed: 120.0 km/h
Temperature: 92.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09L-927-760.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 156 C HW: 09L 927 156 B
Component: AG6 09L 2.0TFSI USA 0040
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: 4149060
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 2708F11953E1C0AFABD-8072

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-910-517.clb
Part No SW: 8E0 910 517 E HW: 8E0 614 517 AL
Component: ESP8 quattro H06 0120
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0004528
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 290CF72145F5F6DFBD9-807C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8E0 820 043 BM
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 2832
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 6D84C331B48D2AFF111-513C

2 Faults Found:
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8E0-907-279-8EC.lbl
Part No: 8E0 907 279 L
Component: int. Lastmodul USA 0704
Coding: 01003
Shop #: WSC 65536
VCID: 3B203D69BA79744FDF5-4B00

3 Faults Found:
01494 - Bulb for Parking Lamps; Left (M1)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01498 - Bulb for Parking Lamps; Right (M3)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8E0-959-655-94.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 959 655 H HW: 8E0 959 655 H
Component: Airbag 9.41 H12 3840
Revision: 91H12384 Serial number: 0036N001KE2Q
Coding: 0032607
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 3C223E75BA677377D6F-8068

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E0 910 339 B
Component: BF-Gewichtsens. 002 0070

Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 36HZB

Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 0001.01.000000200000000000ÿ†63

Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 000000ÿ†6332DRB402DC4F994ÿ†63

Subsystem 5 - Serial number: C4F994ÿ†6342DRB402F4132CNÿ†63

Subsystem 6 - Serial number: 4132CNÿ†6352ARB4010641723ÿ†63

Subsystem 7 - Serial number: 641723ÿ†6362ARB4010A24639ÿ†63

Subsystem 8 - Serial number: A24639ÿ†63729RB40101BB47Iÿ†63

Subsystem 9 - Serial number: 1BB47Iÿ†63829RB40101CC36Jÿ

Subsystem 10 - Serial number: 1CC36Jÿ

2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 50
Reset counter: 39
Time Indication: 0

01211 - Belt Tensioner Igniter; Rear Driver Side (N196)
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 39
Time Indication: 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 8E0 953 549 Q
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0601
Coding: 02021
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 41DC4F81D8951E9F859-4B00

6 Faults Found:
00576 - Terminal 15
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
00883 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal S
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
00884 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal X
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
01744 - Ignition Switch Terminal P (D)
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
00885 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal 50
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8EC.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 920 951 G HW: 8E0 920 951 G
Component: KOMBI+WFS 4 H14 0110
Revision: 0110 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0023261
Shop #: WSC 08316 512 00000
VCID: 2E06043D7C0B91E768B-5184

2 Faults Found:
01176 - Key
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8EC.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 920 951 G HW: 8E0 920 951 G
Component: KOMBI+WFS 4 H14 0110
Revision: 0110 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0023261
Shop #: WSC 08316 512 00000
VCID: 2E06043D7C0B91E768B-5184

2 Faults Found:
01176 - Key
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
Part No: 8E0 959 433 CG
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 4035
Coding: 11820
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 78AAE265CBCF9F57F27-4B00

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801G
Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0706

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802G
Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0506

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801E
Component: Tõrsteuer.HL BRM 0606

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802E
Component: Tõrsteuer.HR BRM 0606

5 Faults Found:
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side
35-00 - -
01573 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Left
35-00 - -
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
80-10 - Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent

End----(Elapsed Time: 06:10, VBatt start/end: 11.9V/11.9V. VIgn 11.8V)-----

[EvolutionArmory]

Yeah, all of those codes are electrical. No key, immobilizer, cam position sensor. Nothing mechanical.

You bought a fuel pump control module for nothing. Time to put the diagnosis dice away. Parts darts bud.

Have the car towed and pay for 1-2 hours of Audi dealer diag. You have a shitload of electrical issues and if you need a key programmed, they’re the people to do it.


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[aviator79]

Parts darts bud? Ok.
Well car has no compression so assume cam chain went or maybe timing belt, even thou less than 40k. Either way engine is fuked. Too bad as had good compression beforr and have replaced almost everything that fails except exhuast cam chain and tensioner. Fuk me. Sorry for posting in wrong thread. Had hoped it was just a lpfp issue.

[esandes]

Aviator, in your first post you said the starter didn't engage/turn. But in the second post you said it did. Am I understanding correctly?

Check your cam follower. I had the cam follower fail and snap the timing chain. I think that's the order it happened. That or they both failed independently.

I hope it's just the pump.

- - - Updated - - -

When it happened, the starter would turn but there was no compression or ignition obviously.

[aviator79]

Aviator, in your first post you said the starter didn't engage/turn. But in the second post you said it did. Am I understanding correctly?

Check your cam follower. I had the cam follower fail and snap the timing chain. I think that's the order it happened. That or they both failed independently.

I hope it's just the pump.

- - - Updated - - -

When it happened, the starter would turn but there was no compression or ignition obviously.

Well she said it would not crank. IDK if due to lifter jamed under cam or what. Cranked when got home. Valves were already bent at that point.

Cam follower fine.

IDK what caused failure.

Replaced head:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/860752-Bent-exhaust-valves-IDK-how-Buy-new-head

[Irufushi]

Tuareg\Q7\R8 module has better cooling [up] For chip cars it’s better

https://a.d-cd.net/c8de231s-960.jpg

Before stock module 71%
https://a.d-cd.net/61e231s-960.jpg

After 51%
https://a.d-cd.net/c61e231s-960.jpg

[EvolutionArmory]

Does the R8 module just plug in?

If it lowers duty cycle that much I bet it would do the same as the RS4 module but at only $200 bucks brand new.

[Irufushi]

Does the R8 module just plug in?
Bolt On [:D]

[EvolutionArmory]

Bolt On [:D]

But does it supply more amps and duty cycle like the RS4 pump module does? Is it an upgrade like the RS4 module is?

[Irufushi]

But does it supply more amps and duty cycle like the RS4 pump module does? Is it an upgrade like the RS4 module is?

this module heats up weaker

I didn’t put a module from the RS, I can’t say

[Jayz691]

Bolt On [:D]So if it drops duty cycle % that much, it must increase flow/amperage?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)