DIY: B6 A4 3.0 Complete Vacuum Line replacement

[SlickFix]

Alright, alright.

Let's have some fun and replace all of those crumbling original vacuum lines and in the process eliminate the chance of a vacuum leak. Win/win, all around. All pics in this DIY are mine, unless otherwise noted.

The tools you'll need for this job are the following:

1/4" ratchet
10mm 1/4" socket
Assortment of pliers
Assortment of small wire cutters
Assortment of screwdrivers: flathead, phillips and T30 torx(to remove the drivers side headlamp assembly).
Small forceps(VERY important and helpful for this job. It allows you to lock the forceps onto the new silicone hose to use for leverage when installing onto a nipple in tight quarters).
Exacto hobby knife
Telescoping mirror
LED Headlamp or small bright flashlight
Dish soap(Fragrance of your choice).
~20 ft. of 3.5 mm silicone vacuum line (http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Silicone-Vacuum-Hose/Vacuum-Hose-Platinum-Cured-Silicone)(I bought mine from verociousmotorsports)

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08142058.jpg





First, we start with a diagram of the 3.0 engine, showing most of the vacuum lines. This diagram omits the lines leading to the combi-valves, one on each side, so I drew them in myself.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/B6_30_Vacuum_Lines.jpg




Here we have a shot of our sexy looking 3.0 engine, covered in plastic. Let's take all of these plastic covers off to expose the vacuum lines.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoSep09125117.jpg





I cannot stress this enough: REPLACE ONE HOSE AT A TIME. DO NOT DISCONNECT MULTIPLE LINES AT THE SAME TIME. It's easy to get confused as to where this hose goes, or where that hose goes, so if you do it one hose at a time, you will be alright.

The technique I used for removing the old vacuum lines is simple, and prevented damage to the fragile plastic nipples which the new silicone hoses must be attached to:

1) Using the Exacto hobby knife, slice the old vacuum line length wise where it connects to the plastic nipple. You only need to make a slice about an inch long to ensure easy removal.
2) With the tip of the knife, peel off the old hose after it's been cut.


To install the new hose:
1)Hold the old hose up to the new silicone hose and cut a section of the new silicone hose to match. I actually made my new hoses about an extra 1/4" longer, to give me a little bit of flexibility when handling the hoses.

2) apply a very small amount of dish soap onto the end of the new silicone hose that is going to connect to the nipple. This will help the hose slide onto the tee connector nipple quite easily.
3) Slide the new hose onto the tee connector nipple as far as you can. When working in tight confines, like when you have to connect the combi-valve lines, use the locking feature of the forceps so that you can grab the new silicone hose and lock the forceps. This will give you leverage as you attempt to slide the hose onto the nipple. I found the forceps to be an invaluable tool when doing this job.


Alright, it's easier to see where all the vacuum lines go if I show you an "after" shot, since the red silicone hose is much easier to see than the old black braided lines. This pic shows every vacuum line you'll need to replace. The red-dotted lines represent hidden lines that are running underneath something.

I want to point out two special PITA lines, which will take up the majority of your time during this job. The first is the brittle hard plastic line on the driver's side front of the engine, that runs between a small gap in the intake manifold. If you're able to replace the two small braided hoses that connect to this without breaking the plastic line, then you're lucky. If your experience is like mine, however, this plastic line will snap while you're attempting to slide the new silicone hose on. In this case, you will need to thread a long piece of silicone hose through that small gap in the intake manifold. It is a major league PITA, but is doable with use of the telescoping mirror and flashlight, so that you can see the hose coming as you snake it down.

In order to give yourself more room with which to turn your arm into a pretzel and allow you to grab the silicone hose when it finally gets snaked all the way through the intake manifold, take your T30 torx screwdriver or bit and remove the driver's side headlamp assembly. That really helps create more room.

The other major pain in the arse is going to be the line that runs out to the passenger side combi-valve. We'll get to that in a moment, and look at it in more detail.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/HoseLocations.jpg



Here's a nice angle of the front vacuum lines, showing them after the replacement has been completed. There's nothing especially difficult about replacing these, just be sure to go slow and replace one line at a time.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoOct08124631.jpg




Moving to the back, this picture of my vacuum lines before replacement demonstrates why we don't remove all the hoses at once and then hope to remember where they all plug into. In this pic, you can also see the three 10mm bolts that need to be removed in order to be able to flip the plate up to allow for easy access. Go ahead and remove those now.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08105944.jpg





After you remove those bolts and lift up on the plate, you'll see this large tee that you just pulled out of it's hose by lifting up on the plate. If it didn't come out, you'll have to pull on it a bit. At any rate, take special note of this tee, and make sure that when you put the plate back on, that this tee gets plugged back into its hose. I didn't replace the hose that this tee connects to, since it was much larger than my 3.5mm hose.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/LargeTee.jpg




And here's a better pic of the tee. Notice the orientation of that blue and black check valve. Make sure that the blue side faces away from you and is pointing towards the firewall.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08130834.jpg




This is my special "hold the plate up with a small screwdriver" trick. I snapped this pic while in the process of changing out the lines that run under the plate. Notice how tight that hose fits between the manifold cover and the fuel rail. It's tight, and you'll need to wedge it in there.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08135451.jpg




Let's move on to the driver's side combi-valve hose. It will be difficult to see, but using your flashlight and mirror, you'll be able to find it. The combi-valves have a rubber hose that attaches to them and runs about 4 inches to a plastic connector. On the other side of this connector is the braided vacuum line. There's no need to replace the rubber hose leading to the combi-valve. Just remove the braided vacuum line. Once you've removed the braided line, you'll see what the rubber hose and the nipple that it's connected to look like:
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/Combi-valve_hose-1.jpg





You could try to connect the new silicone hose to the nipple from here, but there's not much room to work with. It's easier if you push the rubber hose from the combi-valve back toward the right, and bring it up so that the nipple it pointing towards you, as shown below. It's very easy to install the silicone hose from this angle.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08134302.jpg





Here's the after shot of the silicone lines in the back. Very nice!
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08141126.jpg





Oh boy, now the real fun begins. I saved the vacuum line leading to the passenger side combi-valve for last, because it's the most technically difficult. We need to remove the MAF assembly so that we have as much room as possible in which to operate. So, pinch together the two clamps surrounded in yellow and move them onto the flexible hose, so that you can pry off the hose with a flat head screw driver. Next, remove the two clips that hold the MAF assembly together. One of them is surrounded in cyan in the pic below. The other one is behind the MAF, but is accessible with a screwdriver.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/MAF.jpg




Next, carefully insert the flat blade of your screwdriver into the MAF sensor clip, and twist it to "unlock it". It should give a little "click" when it unlocks. You may then pull up on the sensor until it's free. When this is accomplished, remove the whole MAF assembly to a safe place.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08111617.jpg




Next, snip the zip tie where that arrow is pointing. This allows you to move those cables away from the crankcase breather tube. Speaking of that tube, pry up on each claw that is holding it onto the intake manifold. There are 4 of them. Carefully pry them up and off the lip until you can pull the tube away from the manifold.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/Crankcase_Breather_Tube.jpg





Finally, in this pic we see the results of our labor so far. I've pulled the crankcase breather tube from the manifold, and then zip tied it to another hose to keep it moved out of the way. Lo and behold, here is the left side combi-valve rubber hose and nipple. Repeating the procedure on this side may be much more difficult than the driver's side. If you can, try to move it back to the left and get the nipple to face up like you did on the driver's side. If that doesn't work, then it's time to make good use of the forceps and grab that silicone hose and lock it into place. Holding the combi-valve rubber hose with a long needle-nosed pliers, you can slide the silicone hose onto the nipple. For me this was a bastard of a job, but I finally managed it.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/Left_combi-valve_hose.jpg




Success! Look at how little room there is down there.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/PhotoNov08121941.jpg




Clean up the tip of your crankcase breather tube if it looks like mine did, then reassemble everything, making sure to not have any spare pieces laying around.

You're all done, congrats! You just saved yourself many headaches down the road, and multiple hundreds of dollars in labor that you didn't have to pay to the dealership. [wrench]

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/Borat_Great_Success.jpg

[Charles.waite]

This is awesome. Were you having boost leaks or something??


I keed...[>_<]

[Zingo_310]

This is great, could have used this a few months ago!

Great right up, it's so good I might just do it again and add some color! Heh heh

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Great write up I was just looking for his a few weeks ago now I can put fresh lines in. [up]

[87supraman]

Nice!!! I just did this the other day too. But now I'm headed to the garage to double check my work.

Thanks for posting this!


*** and thanks to this thread I corrected a mix up I had!

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk 2

[Darwood]

Nice writeup, thanks a bunch for this.

[SlickFix]

Nice!!! I just did this the other day too. But now I'm headed to the garage to double check my work.

Thanks for posting this!


*** and thanks to this thread I corrected a mix up I had!


Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk 2

You're welcome! So what was the mixup? Did you have the check valve going in the opposite direction?

[87supraman]

I had #14 and #15 switched around. It did not cause a cel or anything. But I feel better with it corrected.

[Audi 4 Life]

Props. Well done.

[RomaAudi]

Thanks for this information.
youraudi.com (http://youraudi.com)

[SlickFix]

A little update: After I did this job, I cleared my P0321 and P0421 codes and the CEL went off. Yay, thought I had it fixed, since the hose leading to the left combi-valve had been disconnected from it when I did my vacuum line investigation. Unfortunately, the CEL came back on a day later, with the same codes. I cleared them again, and the CEL hasn't come back on since. It's been about two weeks now, so I'm calling it a success.

Apparently my cats are fine(for now). [:)]

[john_gonzo]

Hey SF, nice pics and good detail in the text in this write up. Couple comments:

First, LEFT and RIGHT labels are reversed from standard driver’s seat point-of-view. No biggie – pics are clear.

Second, that orange/yellow gunk in the crankcase breather tube is a WARNING that the PCV system is not functioning correctly. Your PCV lines look like the stock plastic tubing which is prone to cracking from brittleness. Cracks leaking mean less PCV, more moisture/gunk build-up around valve train and valve cover baffles, worn cams and cam followers, high$ repairs. And that sucks. (The whole time I was replacing my cam and follower, I was alternately cursing Audi for the plastic tubing over cats and myself for not being more diligent in finding the source of the yellow spew.)

Anyway, that is just a side note. Your DIY is great.

[SlickFix]

First, LEFT and RIGHT labels are reversed from standard driver’s seat point-of-view. No biggie – pics are clear.

Second, that orange/yellow gunk in the crankcase breather tube is a WARNING that the PCV system is not functioning correctly.

Thank you, sir, for pointing that out. While I was writing the DIY I decided to change the wording from "left" and "right" to "driver's side" and "passenger side" for precisely that reason. I obviously missed those two instances. Fixed!

Regarding the orange gunk in the breather tubes...I inspected those and didn't notice any cracks, although since I've got 94k miles on the clock, it's probably time to change them out regardless. Yet another thing to add to the list! [wrench]

[blackfc3s]

Solid work.

[imnuts]

Subscribed so I can come back to this later. I know that some of my vacuum lines have been replaced, but I'm sure that there are some that are still original. Also need to go through and do the PCV stuff. So much to do, so little money [:(] Ah, the life of owning an Audi.

[kypdurron5]

Thanks so much for this guide; I manipulated the front vacuum lines a couple of days ago and heard a hissing sound. Got online and bam.....exactly what I needed with great quality pictures! I especially like the pro tip of cutting the old lines off and using some lube to put the new ones on. Who knows what aged parts I would have broken without doing it this way...

[big_c]

Great write up, will do this asap. Did you use the entire 20 ft on this job?

[old guy]

Outstanding job on the DIY [up][up]

[SlickFix]

Did you use the entire 20 ft on this job?

No, I think in total I probably used maybe 10-12 feet. But at a buck a foot, I figured I'd rather have extra left over than not enough during the job.

Btw, the CEL came back on while wifey was driving it the other night. Apparently this car won't be happy until I replace the cats! [facepalm]

[87supraman]

My cel just came back too. 3 times in one day, P0491. Before the vac line replacement I was getting P0441. I bought 4 meters of 4mm. Slides on much easier in those tricky spots and is still secure enough hold just fine imo. I found it for less than a buck per foot. (http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/6619/Vacuum-Hose-5-32-per-Foot-VCH/)

[kypdurron5]

Well, things didn't go quite as well as planned. The hard plastic sections around the T junction were so brittle they just snapped in half with very gentle manipulation (as well as the T itself). The one on the driver's side that runs by the intake manifold I just replaced with tubing....however, I think I might be screwed on the second. It's the one marked 16 in the diagram, and it runs BEHIND the timing belt cover. I have no idea where it goes; even the diagram you found doesn't show it. Do you have the Bentley manual? I ask because the index sucks- it's literally the worst I've ever seen; can't find anything about the vacuum lines! Any knowledge is appreciated....

The crank breather hose was also so brittle it literally broke in half just pushing it out of the way, looks like I can replace that with heater tubing and clamps though, so not a huge deal.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q696/kypdurron5/IMG_0076.jpg
This one for perspective...
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q696/kypdurron5/IMG_0077.jpg

[87supraman]

Give me just a second and I will try and get a picture of where the other end of that goes. Mine did exactly the same thing. Crumbled. I bought the mixed box of vac fittings at autozone for around $10. I used a male/male connector, stuck one in the new line and used that to connect to the old one. Then pulled up and through.

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk 2

[kypdurron5]

I may have found it, but I want to make sure before I go playing around with another brittle line...and I certainly don't want to hook a vacuum line where it's not supposed to go. At first I was thinking it dives down, now I think the hard plastic is in a U shape and comes out more lateral on the driver's side. This picture doesn't show the termination, but rather (I think) where the hard plastic meets more braided vac line. Am I correct about this? I see a place where I can fix things just to the right of this....

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q696/kypdurron5/IMG_0078.jpg

[87supraman]

That is probably the right one. This is what I got with a quick look. It connects to a quick disconnect. SUPER brittle feeling hard lines, even though mine did not break. The yellow painted vac line is the one that connects to that T up top. Access requires pulling the drivers side headlight, unless you have magic hands and great luck. Unrelated to the vacuum lines, you may want to replace that one time clip on the top hose going into the power steering pump with a regular hose clamp. Looks a little gunky, and will make a much nicer seal to help prolong keeping unwanted air out of the system.

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Dan_Emily86/IMG_00032.jpg
yellow ziptie is just to show the route of the line that goes to that disconnect piece. Would have continued to use the ziptie for demonstration, but said ziptie now lives between my skidplate and oil pan.
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Dan_Emily86/IMG_0001-1.jpg

[SlickFix]

Yes, this is the brittle hard plastic lines that broke on me, too. It was one of the two PITA lines mentioned in my original instructions.

You can either shove the replacement silicone line through that gap in the pic above(see yellow zip tie) from the top or bottom. I went top to bottom, using the telescoping mirror and shining a flashlight on that to monitor my progress.

Removing the driver's side headlamp assembly will help tremendously, by allowing you to get your arm up there to fish for the hose as it finally gets through the gap. Indeed, it's a major PITA, but you can do it.

[kypdurron5]

Got it done, thanks for the help! Also replaced the clamp on my power steering pump- thanks for the tip. I was concerned about that area, but I've never been able to see a leak and fluid levels have been fine; hopefully it was just slowly leaking around the clamp and it's now resolved vs. a failing pump (I've heard this is a common item to fail in these models). No CEL yet, but we'll see in the coming weeks. I did notice the secondary air injection system ran for a far shorter time than normal when I first started it.

My guess is that they used the hard plastic lines because those come in direct contact with the engine. No idea how the silicone tubing will hold up over time under those conditions, but I can always fix it again later. Hopefully not in the lifetime of the car.

[big_c]

Just finished this upgrade. Some comments:

Like the others, my brittle plastic lines broke upon eye contact. I routed a long line around the back of the engine , I couldnt get the hose to slip through that gap behind the rihgt timing belt cover.

Be very, very careful when removing the oem lines. I damaged that black valve that connects to the intake manifold...pressed to hard when slicing the wires through that hidden slow. The thin plastic port snapped right off. I used a vinyl tube between the red tube and the inside of that valve to get it to connect. It seems to be secure so far, using this repair.

[CRAIG1MACK]

Thanks for the write up!

[brady.]

could have used this 2 months ago.. still love you :)

[JEENYUS]

siliconeintakes.com only offers the vacuum hose @ 4mm. would this still work or should i use the link you provided at exactly 3.5mm?

[SlickFix]

^^ 4mm would work, but in my experience the 4mm hose is a little too big for that thing in front of the intake manifold.

This is where (http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Silicone-Vacuum-Hose/Vacuum-Hose-Platinum-Cured-Silicone) I got my hose. Great stuff.

[JEENYUS]

it looks like you also replaced some of the t-fittings. did you get them on the same website? what size?

[xdewaynex]

Im looking at this and trying to fully figure out where the lines will run when deleting the sai and combi valves.

[imnuts]

it looks like you also replaced some of the t-fittings. did you get them on the same website? what size?

If anyone has a source for the T-fittings, I'd love to know. I couldn't find anything that wasn't unreasonably expensive for what I was using it for.

[87supraman]

I bought the $9 assortment box of fittings at O'Reillys. Has worked great so far and I have a bunch of spares.

[SlickFix]

it looks like you also replaced some of the t-fittings. did you get them on the same website? what size?

Like Supraman, I bought a $6 box of one hundred assorted tees from my local Fleet Farm store. I originally called the dealer to get a replacement, but declined after they quoted me $6 for one tee.

[Greedo]

I saw Fleet Farm and knew someone was from the Midwest.

Subscribing to do this in the near future.

[formula1vhr]

Awesome! thank you very much. I just used this and it was very helpful.

[therealguy]

great write-up. so, after being quote $600 to have my vacuum leak resolved (can't even get smog checked till then), i'm diving back into minor car repairs (i haven't worked on a car in 10+ yrs, and that was a japanese import). how long might this job take, and i also found this site for cheaper vacuum hoses http://www.siliconehose.com/0-1375-3-5mm-id-high-performance-silicone-vacuum-hose/

[junxing]

Great DIY, thanks a lot Slick! this took me about 3-4 hours just because I have a tendency to clean random bits of the engine compartment whenever I'm in there. As I was replacing the vacuum hoses I found that the plastic brittle line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator was broken, and now I've replaced it the car idle without shaking, the clutch and brake pedal are not as mushy, and my butt dyno tells me the car has more power. Is that because I no longer have a massive vacuum leak and fuel pressure is regulated across the rpm range? what was fuel pressure doing then when the line was broken?

[SlickFix]

Great DIY, thanks a lot Slick! this took me about 3-4 hours just because I have a tendency to clean random bits of the engine compartment whenever I'm in there. As I was replacing the vacuum hoses I found that the plastic brittle line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator was broken, and now I've replaced it the car idle without shaking, the clutch and brake pedal are not as mushy, and my butt dyno tells me the car has more power. Is that because I no longer have a massive vacuum leak and fuel pressure is regulated across the rpm range? what was fuel pressure doing then when the line was broken?

You're very welcome! Glad it helped. That's what Audizine is all about. [az]

Hmm, to be honest I don't even know where the pressure regulator is. Maybe oldguy or one of the more knowledgeable folks will chime with an answer.

[junxing]

the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) sits on the driver side, it's hooked up to the fuel rail on top of the intake manifold.

[jaydeff]

Thanks for the write up it helped immensely.

The vacuum line to my FPR was also all frayed, messed up and leaking and after I replaced it the car definitely feels more responsive especially in the lower RPMs.

[cschuster]

Nice write up! Completed this in 2 hours this morning. Mine were in rough shape, so cutting them off was a little frustrating. I also managed to break both of the longer hard plastic hoses, so I had to run a hose under the valve cover and one along the intake manifold to the front. Then I had to dig the broken pieces out - wish someone would invent a plastic magnet! Overall, it wasn't a big deal, and the new flexible hose is probably better than those brittle ******s anyways. I'm glad I got 20' and had enough to run the extra hose. Still had maybe 3' leftover.

Cheers to no more future vacuum leak issues!

[imnuts]

Just a quick bump for this for a question. How many check valves are in the 3.0 vacuum system? Looking at the diagram and the pictures, it looks like there is just one, and I don't know of any others I've seen anywhere. When the weather finally decides to warm up around here and stop snowing, I want to tackle this, as well as PCV replacement and intake manifold spacers. I'd like to go through and replace as much of the system as possible seeing as I'm at almost 180k miles.

[SlickFix]

How many check valves are in the 3.0 vacuum system? Looking at the diagram and the pictures, it looks like there is just one, and I don't know of any others I've seen anywhere.

As far as I know, there is only one.

We got another 5 inches of snow here last night. I swear there is about 6 ft of snow on the ground now. This winter has been a bastard. We picked a good year to get dedicated snow tires, though. [drive]

[cschuster]

I'm at almost 180k miles.

How's your 3.0 holding up after all those miles?

[imnuts]

How's your 3.0 holding up after all those miles?

Pretty well. I have some stuff I want to take care of, but it is mostly just routine maintenance and slowly taking care of replacing old plastic and non-maintenance wear items.

Also, thank you Slick. I'll probably be ordering some nylon fittings, a check valve, and silicone tubing shortly so I have it ready should we get a random warm day. I also want to get the JHM intake spacers and PCV kit to do at the same time. Also getting ready for timing belt #2 [:)]

[imnuts]

I accomplished all of this tonight except for two of the lines. I need to do the one that goes under the intake manifold yet, as well as the one to the passenger side combi-valve. The rest of them were replaced and it was a huge PITA without the forceps. The front was where the problems where, by the intake actuators. I ended up loosening the intake manifold and lifting it up partially to get more room for my needle nose pliers and fingers. I couldn't get the lines connected to item #1 in the line diagram in the OP.

I will offer an updated list for the OP though if you'd like.

5 mm allen wrench or allen socket if you want to remove the intake manifold
Straight AND angled forceps
Need at least 10 ft of vacuum line, 15 ft to be safe. Not that having extra line would be a problem.
2 - 1/8" Tee fittings
2 - 1/8" Wye fittings
1 - 1/8" straight connector
1 - 1/8" check valve

I got the fittings and check valve from US Plastics. Black nylon fittings and a kynar check valve. When replacing the lines, the fittings were in worse shape than the vacuum hose, minus the plastic line that goes along the driver's side valve cover. It was in one piece, but was extremely brittle when removing it. Something that made replacing the line that goes along the intake manifold/valve cover was the straight connector. Disconnected it at the front and back, put the straight connector in at the front side of the hose and attached it to the silicone hose. Pulled it out towards the rear of the car and then disconnected the hose and cut it to length. Did the same thing with the line that connects to the fuel pressure regulator.

Note that if you get 4 mm or larger silicon tubing, you would need to size the fittings appropriately. The 3.5 line works fine with the 1/8" fittings. It is slightly loose when pushing it on, but doesn't come off easily when pulled. Given that it is under a vacuum, it shouldn't be an issue. I'll probably take a trip to Harbor Freight tomorrow and get some hemostats to do the last couple lines that I didn't get to earlier tonight.

[SlickFix]

Yessir, the forceps are a huge help in doing this job. Being able to clamp the forceps onto the hose, then push the hose onto the connectors...makes all the difference between merely annoying and downright exasperating!

What color hose did you end up going with? Any pics?

[imnuts]

I went with black hose. Given I have a Dolphin Grey car, I didn't like the idea of red or blue. I tried to go with silver, but they didn't have it. I'll probably get a couple pics tomorrow after I get the last two lines replaced.

[SJorge3442]

I need to order the jhm intake spacers so I can do this. My lines were swapped once already since I dont have braided lines.

Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk

[imnuts]

I got the last two lines yesterday and they didn't take long at all to replace. Surprisingly, the one that goes through the intake manifold by the timing belt wasn't brittle like the one that ran along the intake manifold and valve cover. I was expecting it to be just as bad if not worse seeing as it doesn't really get any airflow and would see larger temperature swings. I disconnected it from behind the headlight first, then pulled it up through the hole with the new line attached. Left a few extra inches of line for the future just in case it would need changed again. The stock line had almost no slack that you could pull the tee it plugs into up and into a workable position.

For the passenger side combi valve line, I removed the MAF, intake hose, top of the air box, PCV line, cam sensor connectors and also disconnected my coils to get more room to work in. It was a lot of extra work, but it allowed me to pull the connection right up through the narrow opening and work on it there rather than trying to put the line on with pliers or forceps. The old line did not want to come off and was stuck on pretty well, but it eventually popped off. Cleaned out the PCV line end before putting it back on and put the little clips back on the newly installed vacuum line so it would move around too much. Engine seems to run just a little smoother now, but I'm guessing that is more because I had a broken tee fitting that was replaced over just replacing the lines themselves. In moving the PCV lines around, they definitely need to be changed out as the plastic is quite brittle and I thought I was going to crack the one several times when moving it out of the way.

The local deal is also striking out for parts. I made two trips there for different parts, and they had neither. Not surprised they didn't have a headlight washer, but they also didn't have the generic M6x45mm bolts that are used to hold down the intake manifold. I found the part number for them and they are used on a wide range of models from different years. I'm sure that they don't loose or need them too often, but why not have something general like this on hand at all times?

Also, couple pics, and yes, I know that it is dirty under there. I just don't have a good way to really clean it living in an apartment complex.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ta1emSvACfM/UyRzwiIGhcI/AAAAAAAAZQI/NiYrcIKujE0/w1554-h875-no/IMG_20140315_113725328.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LEKkw_4020w/UyRzyJhpp8I/AAAAAAAAZQU/2xYkOUZeztg/w1554-h875-no/IMG_20140315_113730801_HDR.jpg

[SJorge3442]

Once it's warmer I will tackel this plus my pcv. My pcv is broken, but taped and heated back together. I'm going to swap it all out with heater hose. I want to do that plus these vacuum lines and the jhm intake manifold spacers. Knock it all out in one day

Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk

[SlickFix]

Guys, what's the purpose of installing JHM intake manifold spacers?

[cschuster]

I guess they provide a thermal barrier so that the intake manifold doesn't absorb as much heat from the heads. Cooler manifold = cooler intake air temp. Don't know if this makes a difference in a real world scenario, someone else with numbers would have to weigh in on that

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

[SJorge3442]

The main purpose is to drop intake temps. I remember reading someone who did it noticed a noticeable temp drop. Using the torque android app you can track your intake temps.

Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk

[cschuster]

Is the temp drop significant enough to make a noticeable power difference?

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

[imnuts]

The main purpose is to drop intake temps. I remember reading someone who did it noticed a noticeable temp drop. Using the torque android app you can track your intake temps.

I believe that the intake temps are measured at the MAF, so you won't see a difference with the readings from the ECU. However, from what I've read from people that have installed the spacers, the intake manifold is cool to the touch even after the car has been running for a while. I know that my intake manifold is fairly warm after a drive, but not too hot to touch. The added distance also helps out with low end torque from what JHM posted, but I haven't seen any numbers to back it up.

[SJorge3442]

I believe that the intake temps are measured at the MAF, so you won't see a difference with the readings from the ECU. However, from what I've read from people that have installed the spacers, the intake manifold is cool to the touch even after the car has been running for a while. I know that my intake manifold is fairly warm after a drive, but not too hot to touch. The added distance also helps out with low end torque from what JHM posted, but I haven't seen any numbers to back it up.

Yeah i guess youre right with the temperature reading. I mean, where else could it measure it lol. Any way, I'd like to see some results from the spacers, but the proof from the manifold being cooler is almost enough to convince me. I wanted to zingo mod my airbox today, but that didnt happen since I needed to fix my damn sunroof rattle. Hopefully thats fix now.

I figured since its easier to get to the vacuum lines with the manifold off, I would just add those spacers while I was in there.

[imnuts]

I didn't have to completely remove the intake manifold. I just loosened all of the bolts/screws holding it and lifted it up slightly in the front. Though, if you are taking it off, that'd make replacing the vacuum hoses and PCV much easier as you'd get a lot of room to work.

[Spike00513]

According to Diagnosticator, making the intake manifold cooler will make it collect more PCV vapors on its walls due to the difference in temperature (cool intake manifold walls, hot PCV vapors). To stop this, one would need to improve on the stock PCV system, which on its best day, coats the intake manifold and valves with oily aerosols from the crankcase.

I have the spacers and the intake is cool to the touch if I feel it right after driving. Even if it was a very hard drive. Of course, if the car sits enough, the heat will eventually raise the intake wall temps because with the car off and sitting, you don't have outside air (cold) constantly passing through it.

Diagnosticator suggests installing the Mann ProVent between the stock 3.0 PCV, and intake connection. This way, the air that enters the intake tract is clean. He also suggested running the drain back into the crankcase.

I am yet to study this and confirm whether or not it's a viable solution to our poorly designed PCV systems, but I hope to in the near future. I will of course post results.

I believe that with the JHM spacers (5mm thick), the geometry of the 3.0 intake manifold is changed. The intake runners become longer, and my butt-dyno tells me that the torque curve has moved downward in RPM. Diagnosticator says this is what would happen with spacers.

I haven't done any scientific testing on it, other than trying to get good gas mileage. I get around 18-30mpg, 30 being when I cruise at 60,65mph behind a semi-truck to cut the wind in front of me, and less MPG when real life happens (have to swerve and floor it to escape the wild California Driver). I'm sure that my heavy 26lb/each OEM wheels aren't helping either.


I also installed DEI reflect-a-gold underneath my manifold but the adhesive on it is poor. It falls off within a week.


I am inclined to ask, if a catch can is the solution, why didn't Audi make the car this way from the factory? It must not be the solution if Audi didn't do it. But I'm not sure of that, for a few reasons. 1, Audi has done many other genius things, such as the sturdy B6 glovebox and arm-rest, peeling buttons, and so on. Maybe, they didn't use a catch can because they didn't test the B6 3.0 for 50,000 miles to see how much build-up accumulates on the intake tract. Maybe there was no good catch can around the time of B6 3.0 development. I'm sure a Mann ProVent 200 is better than a simple water bottle with tubes hooked up to it. That would be considered a gravity catch can, and as shown in the B7 RS4, is not very effective. Maybe, they wanted to save money on production so they didn't include the filter. Or maybe, they didn't think owners would follow through with changing the 50$/50k mi filter. I don't know.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=629918&stc=1&d=1336355027


Sorry if OT. In my defense..you started it! [:D]

[SJorge3442]

According to Diagnosticator, making the intake manifold cooler will make it collect more PCV vapors on its walls due to the difference in temperature (cool intake manifold walls, hot PCV vapors). To stop this, one would need to improve on the stock PCV system, which on its best day, coats the intake manifold and valves with oily aerosols from the crankcase.

I have the spacers and the intake is cool to the touch if I feel it right after driving. Even if it was a very hard drive. Of course, if the car sits enough, the heat will eventually raise the intake wall temps because with the car off and sitting, you don't have outside air (cold) constantly passing through it.

Diagnosticator suggests installing the Mann ProVent between the stock 3.0 PCV, and intake connection. This way, the air that enters the intake tract is clean. He also suggested running the drain back into the crankcase.

I am yet to study this and confirm whether or not it's a viable solution to our poorly designed PCV systems, but I hope to in the near future. I will of course post results.

I believe that with the JHM spacers (5mm thick), the geometry of the 3.0 intake manifold is changed. The intake runners become longer, and my butt-dyno tells me that the torque curve has moved downward in RPM. Diagnosticator says this is what would happen with spacers.

I haven't done any scientific testing on it, other than trying to get good gas mileage. I get around 18-30mpg, 30 being when I cruise at 60,65mph behind a semi-truck to cut the wind in front of me, and less MPG when real life happens (have to swerve and floor it to escape the wild California Driver). I'm sure that my heavy 26lb/each OEM wheels aren't helping either.


I also installed DEI reflect-a-gold underneath my manifold but the adhesive on it is poor. It falls off within a week.


I am inclined to ask, if a catch can is the solution, why didn't Audi make the car this way from the factory? It must not be the solution if Audi didn't do it. But I'm not sure of that, for a few reasons. 1, Audi has done many other genius things, such as the sturdy B6 glovebox and arm-rest, peeling buttons, and so on. Maybe, they didn't use a catch can because they didn't test the B6 3.0 for 50,000 miles to see how much build-up accumulates on the intake tract. Maybe there was no good catch can around the time of B6 3.0 development. I'm sure a Mann ProVent 200 is better than a simple water bottle with tubes hooked up to it. That would be considered a gravity catch can, and as shown in the B7 RS4, is not very effective. Maybe, they wanted to save money on production so they didn't include the filter. Or maybe, they didn't think owners would follow through with changing the 50$/50k mi filter. I don't know.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=629918&stc=1&d=1336355027


Sorry if OT. In my defense..you started it! [:D]

What other mods do you have? If you can significantly feel a difference, I will keep these on my to-do list.

[Spike00513]

Maybe it's just in my head. Who knows, it could be related to something else. Maybe the car adjusting to my driving (drive-by-wire) and changing the throttle response, I don't know. I think it feels torque-ier down low but take that with a grain of salt. I have no scientific studies/evidence to back up my claims.

I have zero other engine-related mods.

JHM has a picture of their intake manifold with DEI reflect-a-gold. The B6 S4 4.2 intake looks like it's shaped better in terms of accommodating the tape. The 3.0 manifold sucks in that respect. Maybe you could find some other insulation tape that is stickier, and use that to help reinforce the gold DEI tape. I did that with some foil-like tape, but apparently I didn't put it in as many places as I should have.

I'm not sure what I used. I just found it laying around in my garage. It's way stickier than the DEI gold stuff, which can be had for around $20 on Amazon I think. One day, I'll tape/fix my sagging gold stuff...

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRHJGfAD0hKUMoDPOw66PTqQMdw96rgt hdEtafQIPHS0AeGgBtBWA

[noiser]

Hello, I have mine vacuum lines disconnected after bad collision rapair. Don't you know, where do I find complete vacuum lines scheme? I have a feeling that hoses near blue vacuum reservoir on the drivers side behind front bumper are bad connected. Thanks a lot for every suggestion.

[cschuster]

Hello, I have mine vacuum lines disconnected after bad collision rapair. Don't you know, where do I find complete vacuum lines scheme? I have a feeling that hoses near blue vacuum reservoir on the drivers side behind front bumper are bad connected. Thanks a lot for every suggestion.

The best drawing of the complete system is on the first page. Do you mean the one that passes under the valve cover? If so, its not too hard to get a new line through there.

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[axgop]

Did my fronts tonight. The plastic line along the valve cover was already broken and then proceeded to break into many more smaller bits. Had to fish them out with the forceps and a vacuum.

For the line that goes under the intake, I used some bailing wire. I pushed it through, pulled it up from the bottom side, bent back the end, and slid the tube on over the bend. Came back through very easily that way. The wire was just some generic galvanized stuff I had laying around. I think I got it at Walmart a few years ago.

Before I go and tackle the rear lines, I need to know ... when you pull up that plate and pop off that T connector, where does that bottom line go? When I pulled up the plate, I noticed the end of that line was already split open. I pushed the T back onto it as best I could, but its gonna need replacing.

[SlickFix]

when you pull up that plate and pop off that T connector, where does that bottom line go? When I pulled up the plate, I noticed the end of that line was already split open. I pushed the T back onto it as best I could, but its gonna need replacing.

That's a very good question, and one that I wasn't prepared to tackle when I did this DIY. You would add great benefit to this thread if you could provide the answer, and what size line that is. It's larger than the other vacuum lines.

Pics would be nice, too. [:)]

[axgop]

That's a very good question, and one that I wasn't prepared to tackle when I did this DIY. You would add great benefit to this thread if you could provide the answer, and what size line that is. It's larger than the other vacuum lines.

Pics would be nice, too. [:)]

Wait ... you mean work on my car without following someone's DIY on here? Is that allowed? [:|]

[imnuts]

Wait ... you mean work on my car without following someone's DIY on here? Is that allowed? [:|]

Can you get a picture or which line you're talking about? I think I know, because I remember there being one line that was larger when replacing mine, but I can't remember where exactly it was.

[axgop]

First, here's a couple quick pics of the tool I made. Just a bunch of slightly bent sturdy wire with a hook at the end. Key for size reference.

http://i.imgur.com/XmqJrU0l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QsJqcNXl.jpg


Can you get a picture or which line you're talking about? I think I know, because I remember there being one line that was larger when replacing mine, but I can't remember where exactly it was.

Terrible pic has a flashlight going right onto it. It looks like it's no more than an inch or so long. Thanks to the destruction at the connector end, I can't determine size until I pull it off and I need the car running today.

http://i.imgur.com/k3yNIGhl.jpg

[SlickFix]

Can you get a picture or which line you're talking about? I think I know, because I remember there being one line that was larger when replacing mine, but I can't remember where exactly it was.

It's the larger line directly below the plate in the rear of the IM:

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/LargeTee.jpg

[SJorge3442]

Well screw me, right? http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/20/y3yqaqyg.jpg

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[SJorge3442]

Well I took care of all of the lines except the one that runs to the passenger side bank behind the head. I didn't want to mess with the pcv lines too much. Then I forgot to plug in my maf and cam sensor so I had a crazy loud back fire on startup that I had no idea the cause. Pulled the codes and was like, duh....

Now to "maybe" find a new replacement for that intake cylinder.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[SJorge3442]

after doing some thinking after finding this broken intake, I may be jumping ship to a new car. These little repairs are really annoying and Im tired of dealing with these problems. I will be checking out a 2011 GTI 2.0T this saturday. The fuel savings alone would pay for itself. Plus, not to mention its only 3 years old instead of 11.....

[junxing]

Well screw me, right? http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/20/y3yqaqyg.jpg

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

what's wrong with your intake? I can't see it that clearly in your picture.

[SJorge3442]

what's wrong with your intake? I can't see it that clearly in your picture.

the vacuum unit is separated from the cylinder that goes through the manifold....very expensive fix.

[cschuster]

Do you need a new intake manifold? Or can you source that rotating valve assembly from somewhere?

[SJorge3442]

Do you need a new intake manifold? Or can you source that rotating valve assembly from somewhere?

you can find it sometimes, usually its with the manifold. TBH, the car drives fine without this. This valve was intact when I did my timing belt back in October. Now, 15k miles later its broken. At no point did I notice a performance difference.

[deyrag]

At least you can tighten the fittings on the power steering pump easier with it out of the way :)

Dumb question time but related to 3.0 vacuum lines. I have a test kit to check for exhaust gas in the coolant but it is the kind that requires connecting to a vacuum source to pull the vapors through the test fluid. Where is the best (ie safest) place to hook up to a vacuum source? Still chasing the cold start misfire and hoping it is not coolant leak again.

[SJorge3442]

At least you can tighten the fittings on the power steering pump easier with it out of the way :)

Dumb question time but related to 3.0 vacuum lines. I have a test kit to check for exhaust gas in the coolant but it is the kind that requires connecting to a vacuum source to pull the vapors through the test fluid. Where is the best (ie safest) place to hook up to a vacuum source? Still chasing the cold start misfire and hoping it is not coolant leak again.

Maybe Slick can help you with this question. My cold start misfire went away after doing the lines yesterday.... I never had a CEL from them tho, just one or two rough idle points in the morning. Saturday morning I am doing the engine coolant sensor behind the manifold and then driving to a car lot to check out a super clean MK6 GTI.

[Spike00513]

Your intake manifold is not broken.

Take a hook tool or something, pull out the cylinder a little, and re-attach the vacuum face-plate. I've done this like 5 times, and they are de-tachable. It is not broken.

Yes, the car can run with it removed, or set to one of its two variable positions. As long as it isn't blocked.

But the car will not run optimally, if it is not functioning properly.




There are two tabs that slide into the cylinder, that connect the plate and cylinder. There is a correct way to align everything.

The very inner-most part of the cylinder has a plastic bearing-like piece. If you are not careful, this will drop into the intake. If you're lucky, it will only take 10 minutes of cursing to fish it out. Otherwise, off with the intake manifold you go.



If I wanted to, I could even remove my face-plate from the cylinder right now, and attach it back on, with zero problems.









The only thing that ever goes wrong with these, is the plastic arms on the face plate brake. It's a $20 fix, or $100 if you get the Gruven CNC billet aluminum replacement arms.

That or fall for the dealership prank, in which you pay them $400-$800 for an entire (new) manifold, since the "parts don't come separately".

[Tongpo]

Earlier this year I picked up a used intake changeover actuator from Shokan, as the cylinder was separated from the vacuum plate like SJorge's. The used actuator came in very good condition.

On mine, the plastic tabs that slide into the cylinder were disintegrated so reattaching the components was not going to make the system work.

Like others have said, you can drive the car without the changeover system working. I don't know how many tens of thousands of miles I drove before I realized the changeover system not working, and I can't say that I noticed it, but I rarely spend much time above 4000 rpm, which is when the changeover actuates according to the Bentley manual (my testing after replacement showed it actuates closer to 3500 rpm). Now that its functional, I still don't know that I notice any appreciable performance gain, but it gives me some peace of mind knowing it's working as it should.

[Jet08]

So is this the black Mk6 Gti Sjorge?

No doubt a white one will become available if your patient

[junxing]

Your intake manifold is not broken.

Take a hook tool or something, pull out the cylinder a little, and re-attach the vacuum face-plate. I've done this like 5 times, and they are de-tachable. It is not broken.

Yes, the car can run with it removed, or set to one of its two variable positions. As long as it isn't blocked.

But the car will not run optimally, if it is not functioning properly.

There are two tabs that slide into the cylinder, that connect the plate and cylinder. There is a correct way to align everything.

Do you have any pictures to show this alignment?

[SlickFix]

Maybe Slick can help you with this question.

To be honest I have no idea which is the best/safest vacuum line to attach to. I know just enough about the vacuum system to be dangerous. [;)]

[SJorge3442]

So is this the black Mk6 Gti Sjorge?

No doubt a white one will become available if your patient

yessir. Starting to think about the DSG's tho *gasps* The fact that the 6mt cant handle a stage one is disheartening.

Slick, there are times when we depend on you, this is one of those times and you have let us down.... [:o] I mean, they all leads to the same place eventually right? I need to take care of my passenger side combi valve still. Maybe when I do the green coolant sensor this weekend I will attempt it.

[SlickFix]

Hahaha, if you are relying on me for automotive knowledge, you are in a world of hurt! I'm no oldguy. But I play one on TV. [:D]


If you want to talk IT Application Middleware Infrastructure, that's a walk I can walk. But when it comes to our cars, I'm struggling to keep my head above water like the rest of you guys.

[axgop]

Alright, I finally got around to replacing that larger hose. Here's my write-up ...

1. The hose in question is 5/16" ID. I didn't get fancy with this hose, just went to Autozone and picked up this:

http://i.imgur.com/kW6qJwUl.jpg

2. We start off at any point with that rear plate lifted up. The hose is below the T connector and is actually what the T pops out of when lifting the plate. Not shown in the pics, but useful later on is to disconnect from the check valve the hose coming off the top of the T. As you can see, mine was pretty nicely destroyed at some point in the PO's past.

http://i.imgur.com/8KuYPGLl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TXJowpHl.jpg?1

3. The hose is held in place by a one-time clamp at the bottom. I didn't bother trying to pry that clamp open. Instead I just took a long screwdriver from the passenger side, used another screwdriver as a pivot, and pried the whole thing off.

http://i.imgur.com/jqIcbv7l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VqK7G88l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Ya4jC0fl.jpg?1

4. I cut the new hose to be the same length as the old hose, but I probably could have extended it another half inch. No matter. Push the new hose onto the fitting revealed when we removed the old hose. Since the hose I got had a larger OD than what I pulled off, I couldn't fit a hose clamp down there. The new hose went on pretty tightly, so I'm not worried about it. If you get a smaller OD hose, you might want to consider the clamp. It could be screwed on from the passenger side where I pried from above.

http://i.imgur.com/dZxvseUl.jpg?1

5. Push the T connector into the new hose. This is much easier to do if you pulled off that bit of hose from the check valve first.

http://i.imgur.com/qqSMBjcl.jpg?1

That's it. If you were in the middle of the entire job, continue on. If you're just doing this hose, you can bolt the plate back down and reconnect the upper T hose to the check valve.

[JayyKyyle]

Did my fronts tonight. The plastic line along the valve cover was already broken and then proceeded to break into many more smaller bits. Had to fish them out with the forceps and a vacuum.

For the line that goes under the intake, I used some bailing wire. I pushed it through, pulled it up from the bottom side, bent back the end, and slid the tube on over the bend. Came back through very easily that way. The wire was just some generic galvanized stuff I had laying around. I think I got it at Walmart a few years ago.

Before I go and tackle the rear lines, I need to know ... when you pull up that plate and pop off that T connector, where does that bottom line go? When I pulled up the plate, I noticed the end of that line was already split open. I pushed the T back onto it as best I could, but its gonna need replacing.



That's a very good question, and one that I wasn't prepared to tackle when I did this DIY. You would add great benefit to this thread if you could provide the answer, and what size line that is. It's larger than the other vacuum lines.*
Pics would be nice, too. [:)]


It isn't a hose. The hose that you saw when you pulled out the T was actually a hose that was on the T that you pulled out of it first, but when pulling it up while raising the plate it was so old that it stayed stuck on the fixed connection/nipple that it had to be slid onto in the first place. I used a 1 inch piece of 4mm ID/7.5 mm OD hose, lubed it up and put it into a 2 inch piece of 8mm ID/14mm OD hose on the top side, then slid the bottom side of the 8mm hose onto the fixed connector/nipple. Now when I go to take it off in the future (hopefully not for a long ass time) it will be bonded to the 4mm hose more than it will be the non-rubber/silicone connector/nipple and it should slide right off with a given amount of pull and be intact as It was when I put it on to prevent having to get in that tight space and pull all the remaining rotted and/or stuck hose off the connector/nipple. Hope this helps. It helped me when replacing.

Also, just some advice for people doing a replacement on all the vacuum lines, the two skinny, brittle plastic ones, the one the runs across the valve cover and to the back by the throttle body WILL MELT TO YOUR VALVE COVER IF ANY OVER HEATING ISSUES ARISE. The previous owner of my 02' A4 3.0 didn't take that great of care of it and sold it to me because of issues and as I went to do initial repairs and checks on it, while replacing the vacuum hoses I noticed that on the vacuum hose plate above the throttle body, one of the hoses that connects to the T when you lift the plate up and have to disconnect it (the one discussed above in the first paragraph) is attached to the check valve on the plate (the black and blue piece, on the plate next to the solenoid in the pictures in the original post) and on the other side of the check valve coming out of the other end is a hose that Ys off, one going to the solenoid, the other one was just a nipple, no hose or line connected at all. Upon further examination (3 hours) I finally found the angled hose that connects to the nipple at the Y that had no hose at first check, it was behind my motor just laying there caught in the shadows of all the other wires and hoses, then I thought ok, I'll just find what it connects to and then replace it and attach to the spot I find, NOPE! After about 4 hours of taking everything off (throttle body, intake duct, MAF housing, overflow tank, et cetera..) I couldn't find anything for it to connect to from that Y off the check valve. Finally, upon further cleaning and examination, I noticed a blackish/grey plastic material that looked like candle wax along the inside of the valve cover, after searching and searching for what it was I finally found a hose at the front of the valve cover that stemmed from the actuator and it had about a 1 inch piece of little black plastic tubing in the end of it that was melted closed with little strings of melted plastic attached to it, so I knew it was due to over heating. So, anyways, long story short, that was a pain in my butt, but after 7 hours of being dumbfounded about one hose and it's other half, I got the others done in about 45 min and all in all I'm glad I spent the 7 hours I did searching or I would've never found it and there's no telling the problems it could've caused, not to mention it could have also been the culprit of the misfires and rough idle the car was having before the replacement. So, just a warning to anyone who hasn't already replaced those plastic lines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY! They are a horrible excuse for hosing in a engine compartment that can reach extreme temperatures, especially here in Texas. Just F.Y.I!

[SlickFix]

Alright, I finally got around to replacing that larger hose. Here's my write-up ...



Wow, many thanks for this completion to the vacuum hose replacement, axgop! Outstanding work, sir.

You know, I bet this would be easier to tackle if I waited to do this until I did the oil check valve job that Spike wrote up a DIY for recently. With the intake manifold off, it would probably be a piece of cake.

If a clamp won't fit on the bottom end, I wonder if a zip tie wouldn't be a viable alternative?

[axgop]

So, just a warning to anyone who hasn't already replaced those plastic lines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY! They are a horrible excuse for hosing in a engine compartment that can reach extreme temperatures, especially here in Texas. Just F.Y.I!

Agree 100%.


Wow, many thanks for this completion to the vacuum hose replacement, axgop! Outstanding work, sir.

You know, I bet this would be easier to tackle if I waited to do this until I did the oil check valve job that Spike wrote up a DIY for recently. With the intake manifold off, it would probably be a piece of cake.

If a clamp won't fit on the bottom end, I wonder if a zip tie wouldn't be a viable alternative?

You're welcome. With the manifold off, I might have been able to get a clamp on that fixed nipple. I've been keeping an eye on it and it hasn't budged on its own, so I'm still not worried about it. I'd give the zip-tie a try, but I'm concerned about it melting back there.

[imnuts]

The system should be under vacuum, so the lines shouldn't be popping off unless they are excessively loose, or the fitting breaks. Not like there is a lot of room in the engine bay to move around anyway.

[Scottzirra]

Thanks for this guide, and the comments on replacing that brittle tube. My Vacuum Actuator (sometimes called Drive Unit) was SUPER brittle when I went to do this (140k miles), and I of course broken the nozzle off.
This part:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ta1emSvACfM/UyRzwiIGhcI/AAAAAAAAZQI/NiYrcIKujE0/w1554-h875-no/IMG_20140315_113725328.jpg

I went to buy a used one from an Audi junkyard for $150-$250 depending on the yard. 4 different places broke this part when pulling it off the motor, and the 4th place did it when pulling the entire intake manifold off for me. My thought is that these parts of made of that oh so wonderful brittle plastic like everything else plastic in this motor. After wasting an entire afternoon watching people break this part over and over I decided to just buy a new one and not worry about the life of the part. It was kind of a pain to find, so here is the info I gathered:

MFG Part#: 06C133611

ECS Tuning ~$410 US (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/06c133611/ES280290/)
Audi USA Parts. Go Romney! ~$395 US (http://audiusaparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=06C133611&make=Audi&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215820)

[SJorge3442]

Thanks for this guide, and the comments on replacing that brittle tube. My Vacuum Actuator (sometimes called Drive Unit) was SUPER brittle when I went to do this (140k miles), and I of course broken the nozzle off.
This part:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ta1emSvACfM/UyRzwiIGhcI/AAAAAAAAZQI/NiYrcIKujE0/w1554-h875-no/IMG_20140315_113725328.jpg

I went to buy a used one from an Audi junkyard for $150-$250 depending on the yard. 4 different places broke this part when pulling it off the motor, and the 4th place did it when pulling the entire intake manifold off for me. My thought is that these parts of made of that oh so wonderful brittle plastic like everything else plastic in this motor. After wasting an entire afternoon watching people break this part over and over I decided to just buy a new one and not worry about the life of the part. It was kind of a pain to find, so here is the info I gathered:

MFG Part#: 06C133611

ECS Tuning ~$410 US (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/06c133611/ES280290/)
Audi USA Parts. Go Romney! ~$395 US (http://audiusaparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=06C133611&make=Audi&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215820)

I've decided to live with the broken part. Im not too concerned about it any more. I secured a new job where I will no longer be driving 100 miles a day (WooHoo for driving 10 miles a day!) so i dont really care. Once I move back into Philly, I will be driving 0 miles a day...... TBH. I just chalked this up as a broke forever piece. It doesnt hurt function much, so why bother? $400 is just under 10% of our cars worth (figuring 5k). Def not worth it to me.

[imnuts]

I've decided to live with the broken part. Im not too concerned about it any more. I secured a new job where I will no longer be driving 100 miles a day (WooHoo for driving 10 miles a day!) so i dont really care. Once I move back into Philly, I will be driving 0 miles a day...... TBH. I just chalked this up as a broke forever piece. It doesnt hurt function much, so why bother? $400 is just under 10% of our cars worth (figuring 5k). Def not worth it to me.

My car is a freak, as I've had very few issues with stuff breaking so far. Also, I hate to think of the actual value of my car given that I've done a timing belt and clutch replacement within the past 2 months.

Also, the actuator unit is there to give you low end torque and top end power. Just set it to one position or the other and you're good. Most times, the runners are long for torque AFAIK.

Sent from my Moto X

[Scottzirra]

My car is a freak, as I've had very few issues with stuff breaking so far. Also, I hate to think of the actual value of my car given that I've done a timing belt and clutch replacement within the past 2 months.

Also, the actuator unit is there to give you low end torque and top end power. Just set it to one position or the other and you're good. Most times, the runners are long for torque AFAIK.

Sent from my Moto X

Did both side valve covers, coolant reservoir, and some coolant hoses myself and then I had the entire 100k kit (timing belt, water pump, thermostat, idlers, etc etc etc) done for $1800 2 weeks after replacing the control arms and transaxle in the front. With this actuator I'm approaching $4k into the car this year. And I may have a bad cat, CEL was on error 421. And I live in CA.

BUT, It has racing suspension on it and is the fully loaded model, and when it runs it is heaven on wheels. I'm not sure how much I want to keep dumping into this ride, but the resell is below the actual value to me. But I swear to god, I hit 130k miles and it's been one thing after the other.

EDIT: Should have mentioned I have the TipTronic transmission. I like it, but of course a stick would be better.

[Spike00513]

I've decided to live with the broken part. Im not too concerned about it any more. I secured a new job where I will no longer be driving 100 miles a day (WooHoo for driving 10 miles a day!) so i dont really care. Once I move back into Philly, I will be driving 0 miles a day...... TBH. I just chalked this up as a broke forever piece. It doesnt hurt function much, so why bother? $400 is just under 10% of our cars worth (figuring 5k). Def not worth it to me.

It does hurt function, but that function might not matter to you. Like imnuts said, long runners are for down-low torque, under 3500 or so RPM. Which is where we do most of our driving. At 3500 or so RPM, the vacuum-actuated mechanism on the front rotates the cylinder (it does it really fast, cool to watch), allowing for HP up top. The difference is very noticeable. It was like a whole new car when I fixed mine. But, how often do you need to go over 3500 RPM.

I don't think the car is 5k. At least 7k. Considering you have leather interior, well-maintained, cold-weather package, 6-speed, 3.0L V6 (more powerful and "reliable" than stock 1.8T), quattro, etc.

Some say they depreciate due to high maintenance costs. MSRP was around $45k. So in other words, it's a $45k car maybe. Old 7 series BMW's sold for around $100k. Same for the W126 MB's. Now you can get them for $3-$10k and I'm sure one of the reasons is because of how much money you have to dump in them to get them into good condition. That applies to some of the cars more than others, IMO.

I got to drive some appliances recently. It REALLY makes you appreciate these cars.

[Scottzirra]

It does hurt function, but that function might not matter to you. Like imnuts said, long runners are for down-low torque, under 3500 or so RPM. Which is where we do most of our driving. At 3500 or so RPM, the vacuum-actuated mechanism on the front rotates the cylinder (it does it really fast, cool to watch), allowing for HP up top. The difference is very noticeable. It was like a whole new car when I fixed mine. But, how often do you need to go over 3500 RPM.
.

Everytime I drive my car. When I'm in it having fun, it is nothing to see 5k+ RPM. I do a lot of really aggressive country road driving, spend a lot of time in 3rd.

[Scottzirra]

Went to start doing this replacement, and my actuator's clips were already broken, so it wasn't doing it's job anyway. Check out how nasty this thing was when I pulled it. Anyone have any idea whats up with that? I'm thinking clean out my intake system and put in the K&N I ordered. It also looks like I have to pull the entire manifold to get the cylinder out of the manifold, as I can't get it far enough forward to come out.

Edit: Didn't see a DIY floating around on the web for removing the intake manifold, any tips would be appreciated.

http://s18.postimg.org/r6qld7ow9/sludgy.jpg

[SJorge3442]

Went to start doing this replacement, and my actuator's clips were already broken, so it wasn't doing it's job anyway. Check out how nasty this thing was when I pulled it. Anyone have any idea whats up with that? I'm thinking clean out my intake system and put in the K&N I ordered. It also looks like I have to pull the entire manifold to get the cylinder out of the manifold, as I can't get it far enough forward to come out.

Edit: Didn't see a DIY floating around on the web for removing the intake manifold, any tips would be appreciated.

http://s18.postimg.org/r6qld7ow9/sludgy.jpg

Yeah I think the mani needs to come off to get that out. Mine was just about as crudy. Its just oil vapors mixing with dirty air. I just sprayed her down with some carb cleaner. As for the manifold, I cant help you there. I would say the fuel rail, intake system, and back throttle body intake pipe need to come off. Its a pretty straight forward job. If I were you, replace your rear coolant sensor while you have the intake off.

[deyrag]

Search for Spike's recent thread on the oil check valve replacement, that had some good pictures of the removal process.

[Scottzirra]

Thanks for the heads up. I found a couple of part diagrams I was using as a guide. Got the fuel rail off and am working on the manifold itself. Taking a ton of pics so I can contribute something when I'm done.


EDIT: Spike's Oil Check Valve Guide (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/598912-DIY-3-0L-O2-Sensors-oil-check-valves)

[SlickFix]

Taking a ton of pics so I can contribute something when I'm done.

Now THAT'S what I like to hear from new members! Props to you, sir. [up]

[Scottzirra]

Now THAT'S what I like to hear from new members! Props to you, sir. [up]

True to my word I submitted the DiY today, finished the work yesterday. Hopefully it gets approved by them there mods. Even credited you and spike.

Edit: Either the mods aren't active, or my DiY wasn't good enough for the tech side. Going to repost in main model line for the B6 A4.

[k4kwame]

Is there a way to loosen that sensor (I'm assuming) where two of the vacuum lines connect to? I was able to disconnect the electrical connector but I'm not sure how to detach the sensor itself. It's labeled 1 in the Bentley diagram shown in the first post. Speaking of the Bentley diagram, is it possible to figure out the page number or section from the figure label (i.e. A24-0428)? Perhaps the Bentley manual will give me a hint.

[SJorge3442]

Is there a way to loosen that sensor (I'm assuming) where two of the vacuum lines connect to? I was able to disconnect the electrical connector but I'm not sure how to detach the sensor itself. It's labeled 1 in the Bentley diagram shown in the first post. Speaking of the Bentley diagram, is it possible to figure out the page number or section from the figure label (i.e. A24-0428)? Perhaps the Bentley manual will give me a hint.
Just cut the lines with a slit, then pull the lines off.

[imnuts]

I had issues getting the one line on, the one that is towards the back. No issues getting it off. I think that it has a slot on the side of it for clips on the actuator assembly to go through and hold it in place. The only way that I can think of to get it off would be to pull the whole intake runner assembly out, as I don't believe that there is any way to access the clips to get the sensor (or whatever it is) off otherwise without breaking something. I loosened the intake manifold and fuel rail on my car to get the new line on it, and also, forceps are a godsend when doing it as well. I probably could have gotten it with just forceps, but loosening the IM made it a little easier.

[SlickFix]

Is there a way to loosen that sensor (I'm assuming) where two of the vacuum lines connect to? I was able to disconnect the electrical connector but I'm not sure how to detach the sensor itself. It's labeled 1 in the Bentley diagram shown in the first post. Speaking of the Bentley diagram, is it possible to figure out the page number or section from the figure label (i.e. A24-0428)? Perhaps the Bentley manual will give me a hint.

Like SJorge said, it's easiest to slice the old vacuum line and pull it off. It's very easy to pull off the old vacuum lines after you have sliced them. I would leave that sensor attached to the intake manifold.

[k4kwame]

Thanks! With a little more patience I was finally able to get the new hose on without having to remove anything. It turns out that it isn't a sensor (opps); it's actually the intake manifold change-over valve. When I started working on the hoses by the plate near the rear of the engine, I noticed that the secondary air injection solenoid valve has a similar, if not exactly the same, form factor. So you can use that as a reference for how to remove the valve in front, if you really need to. Both of these components are shown on page 24-7 of the Bentley manual (items 22 and 34 in the figure).

Unfortunately, now I've got a bigger problem which has me a little worried. The hose connections by the plate on my car seem to be different from the ones shown in the guide, so hopefully someone can clarify them for me:

1a. On my car, the black side of the check valve connects directly to that port on the rear of the engine. There is no tee there. Somehow the hose was stretched to fit over the 5/16" end. So now I'm wondering where that hose that's going along the fuel rail in the guide comes from?

1b. On my car the hose that starts from the front and goes along the side of the intake manifold, connects to the blue side of the check valve (along with another hose from the solenoid valve). This seems to agree with the Bentley figure shown in the first post. Is this the hose I'm referring to in 1a?

2. The other hose from the solenoid valve connects to the two combi-valves.

Here's what my hoses currently look like, with the plate removed. That blue line is the one I'm currently running from the front. It connects to the other end of the tee, which connects the blue part of the check valve with the solenoid valve.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/hoses.jpg

[SlickFix]

That's not correct, according to what my connections were. If you look on page 1 on this thread, you'll see that my connections are different.

[k4kwame]

AHA, I stumbled upon this! Turns out there's no separate fuel pressure regulator on 2004+ models, which I believe explains the difference in our hoses. The regulator is built into the fuel filter apparently (See here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/514576-Fuel-Filter-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-or-Fuel-Pump?p=8205308&viewfull=1#post8205308)). Correct me if I'm wrong SlickFix, but it looks like you did your guide on a 2003 model?

I'll post a photo of my finished work tomorrow, when the sun comes back up.

[imnuts]

I was going to say, the difference is that the 04+ models have a different (much more expensive) fuel filter with an integrated pressure regulator where the 02-03 models have a $10 filter and separate regulator.

[SlickFix]

Ah so! I stand corrected. Thanks for the information.

[k4kwame]

All finished! Thanks Slick for this guide, and to all others who contributed.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/blue.jpg

[SlickFix]

Very nice, love the color you chose! [up]

[deyrag]

Have read through and maybe I am just not seeing it but what does hose #16 actually connect to after it passes down behind the timing belt cover?

[k4kwame]

Post #24 (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/513886-DIY-B6-A4-3-0-Complete-Vacuum-Line-replacement?p=8231431&viewfull=1#post8231431) has a description/photo of what that connects to. You should be able to see it if you remove the driver-side headlight assembly.

[deyrag]

Just wanted to update this with a good pic of where that line 16 goes. It is the small plastic line tie wrapped to the power steering hose.

http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b572/deyrag/Audi/IMG_0284_zpsee085f36.jpg (http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/deyrag/media/Audi/IMG_0284_zpsee085f36.jpg.html)

[Rashad Jarrah]

Great write up, I have just ordered the 3.5mm vacuum hose from Audi Dealer (They sell them in 5m length). Cheers mate for a job well done.

[AudiTLC]

Subscribed. Thanks

[JEENYUS]

I have a quick question about this. My car has been running weird lately and it feels similar to what you would get if you had a poor PCV. That being said, sometimes it down shifts hard, idles kind of rough and when i put the car into park it bounces the RPM range. I am pretty certain this is a vacuum issue, but wanted to hear if anyone else had this same issue or not? Thanks.

[SlickFix]

Sure sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

[JEENYUS]

Sure sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

Yea me too. Just making sure before I get arms deep in pulling tubes like a gyno doctor.

[JEENYUS]

^^ 4mm would work, but in my experience the 4mm hose is a little too big for that thing in front of the intake manifold.

This is where (http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Silicone-Vacuum-Hose/Vacuum-Hose-Platinum-Cured-Silicone) I got my hose. Great stuff.

I just priced this out. Their shipping is to the moon! The price of the hose is cheap, but their shipping is an amazing 14 dollars for the cheapest!

[nezach]

I just priced this out. Their shipping is to the moon! The price of the hose is cheap, but their shipping is an amazing 14 dollars for the cheapest!

Try them one eBay, I bought 3/4" hose from them on eBay and shipping was free. BTW, I used 3.5mm ID, 7.5mm OD silicone hose for vacuum hose replacement. 4mm ID might be a bit loose. There is also a very short piece of I believe 8mm ID vacuum hose at the back of the intake manifold, it might not be possible to change it without removing throttle body though.

[JEENYUS]

I figured I could get a zip tie around it to seal the deal. So all of the hose listed on the DIY aren't 3.5mm then?

[SlickFix]

So all of the hose listed on the DIY aren't 3.5mm then?

All of the hoses are 3.5mm, with the exception of that one larger hose that's hiding under the plate on top of the rear intake manifold. I mention it in the DIY.

[nezach]

Here is a better look of that hose. Intake is upside down in picture. That hose was in a pretty bad shape so I replaced it while I had the manifold removed.

http://i.imgur.com/aFgYUkw.jpg

[SlickFix]

Are you sure this is the same hose as the one in my pic?

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/SlickWilhelm/LargeTee.jpg

[nezach]

Are you sure this is the same hose as the one in my pic?

Yes, you can see the T connector that you pull out in my picture. It is just above the green mask tape with two white zip ties.

[JEENYUS]

I wouldn't be surprised if that's the one giving me grief.

[imnuts]

Can someone please verify a couple things for me? I disconnected the rats nest of vacuum lines and connectors at the back of my intake manifold this morning. I think I got them all back together properly, but would appreciate someone verifying this for me. The FPR vacuum line plugs into the small Tee connector under the plate, at the very back of the intake manifold. The Tee has a short ~8mm hose it plugs into, and also another line that comes up and goes to a check valve. Other thing I'd like verified is that both of the lines that connect to the combi valves on either side come together at a wye connector. If those are both correct, I think I'm good, and that is how it looks in the pictures in the OP, but I just wanted to check quick first.

EDIT: I looked at ElsaWin, and I'm pretty sure that both items above are good. I'd still appreciate if someone could confirm for me though.

[SJorge3442]

Can someone please verify a couple things for me? I disconnected the rats nest of vacuum lines and connectors at the back of my intake manifold this morning. I think I got them all back together properly, but would appreciate someone verifying this for me. The FPR vacuum line plugs into the small Tee connector under the plate, at the very back of the intake manifold. The Tee has a short ~8mm hose it plugs into, and also another line that comes up and goes to a check valve. Other thing I'd like verified is that both of the lines that connect to the combi valves on either side come together at a wye connector. If those are both correct, I think I'm good, and that is how it looks in the pictures in the OP, but I just wanted to check quick first.

EDIT: I looked at ElsaWin, and I'm pretty sure that both items above are good. I'd still appreciate if someone could confirm for me though.
Pretty sure you're good to go. When I got the vacuum line from you last year I had thought you had already dealt with yours.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[imnuts]

I did, but today I disconnected the mess at the back of the engine and forgot where they all went as I moved lines around partially unplugged, unplugged stuff out of order, etc. So far so good. Drove the car a little bit this afternoon and no misfires, etc., so that's a good sign. The diagram in the OP is good for a "this is what it looks like" reference, but the vacuum line diagram in the repair manual helped a little more to make sure all was hooked up properly for me.

[zjerunk]

You are absolutely right about the Bentley manual! No mention of the word "vacuum" in the Index or T.O.C.
I have the same question about the diagram and LINE marked 16. Where does it go, and to what? I have a 3.5 mm hard plastic line coming up from an area under the windshield washer tank whose end seems to have a broken appearance and is open. This could conceivable attach to 16 but at present is just a bit short.

[zjerunk]

Thanks for posting this great write-up. It's exactly what I was looking for. I have the Bentley manual and it has no mention of the vacuum system in either the TOC or Index.
Where did you find the diagram of the vacuum system? Also, regarding LINE #16 in the diagram, I have a 3.5 mm hard plastic tube coming up from the are under the windshield washer tank with a broken end and is open. Is this where #16 should attach?

[imnuts]

The hose connected to the line labeled #16 in the diagram is a hard plastic line that runs down through the front timing cover/front of the valve cover area to the vacuum reservoir. In the 4th picture, it is the one on the bottom right corner. I don't completely recall what mine plugged into, but it is the line that leads to the vacuum reservoir.

[JEENYUS]

Can't we just find a way to get rid of all these stupid vacuum hoses? I'm sick of them and there has got to be a way to simplify them.

[zjerunk]

I just priced this out. Their shipping is to the moon! The price of the hose is cheap, but their shipping is an amazing 14 dollars for the cheapest!

On the web their store check out adds shipping costs, but they have an eBay store and the shipping if free. BTW, I went to the store web site first, and had to call them because I was't able to open an account due to some tech hitch. The young lady who took my call got it fixed up and told me that if I place the order on eBay the shipping is free, and added since I was on the phone already she'd take the order and ship free. Their prices and service are very good.

[zjerunk]

The hose connected to the line labeled #16 in the diagram is a hard plastic line that runs down through the front timing cover/front of the valve cover area to the vacuum reservoir. In the 4th picture, it is the one on the bottom right corner. I don't completely recall what mine plugged into, but it is the line that leads to the vacuum reservoir.
Thanks!

[OlivierA4]

SlickFIX,
thank you for a simple DIY that improve the quality of the car. I did mine today due to downtime waiting for axhaust parts to arrive. got it done in 1 hour. I used a few tools that greatly help.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm224/deadcpu/Audi%20A4%20QTR/IMG_2294_zps4psv5sbb.jpg (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/deadcpu/media/Audi%20A4%20QTR/IMG_2294_zps4psv5sbb.jpg.html)

The way i uses the knife is that I slide the knife tip to the old hose then turn the knife so the sharped edge point outward. the slide the blade along the length of the hose. this way, i don't scored the fitting or put pressure on the fragile connector. I then used the orange handle tool to gently pull the old line out.

the forceps are those use in surgery operating room. i bought it from flee market. the large one is very helpful to pull line around.

I use the ear cotton swab and dip it in the lithium grease and applied a tinny tinny bit super thin layer at each end of the hose when insert into the fitting.

[MantanaB6]

All I have to add (or rather stress) to the whole vacuum line replacement is that to replace the line that runs through the drivers side cylinder bank, it is sooo much easier if you remove the drivers side headlight and the vacuum actuator. That is all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[OlivierA4]

All I have to add (or rather stress) to the whole vacuum line replacement is that to replace the line that runs through the drivers side cylinder bank, it is sooo much easier if you remove the drivers side headlight and the vacuum actuator. That is all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

add to MantanaB6 said about the PITA line that goes inside the timing bell cover, after removed the driver side headlight, i gently popped the line out of the bracket, then spliced the hose and removed from the fitting. at the same location, I cut the old line where the fabric joined with the black thin plastic tube. there is a ziptie that tight the old line. cut that off so the old black line can free up. I then slide the new silicone hose into the thin plastic tube. BE VERY VERY GENTLE since the tube IS DRIED AND BRITTLE. I then pull the old hose from the top up with other hand feeding the line gently upward. do it with the feeling of the line tension. you don't want to push too hard and pulling too much that might break the black old line inside the timing belt cover. if you forget to cut the ziptie, it will broke your old black line. It happened to me.

[SJorge3442]

For that line, I ran a full silicone line and ignored the plastic line. I think I might have pulled the hard line our of the cover, I dont remember tho.

[MantanaB6]

For that line, I ran a full silicone line and ignored the plastic line. I think I might have pulled the hard line our of the cover, I dont remember tho.

Yea I just got rid of the brittle plastic lines and ran full silicone lines. Seemed like a better long term solution as those plastic lines were bound to crap out eventually.

[OlivierA4]

absolutely, i just show the method of how to pulling the new silicone line up by using the old hose.

[Fouad1013]

This may be a stupid question, but can i use 1/8in tubing instead of the 3.5mm? The 1/8in comes out to be 3.175mm. I got some off of McMaster with a couple of other things i needed. I test fitted it over one of the connectors and it fits a little tight, but i had no problem getting it on there.

[imnuts]

The only thing I'd be worried about with the smaller tubing is it splitting open with age since it has to stretch more to get onto the fittings.

Sent from my Nexus 6

[Fouad1013]

well its high temp silicone tubing, so i wasn't to worried about it splitting. I was more concerned with the flow.

[paul85]

4 mm fits fine I've found out. I'm using standard vacuum tubing though, not silicone, so it has a smaller OD than the silicone.

[f0reignfeatures]

Thank you all for this awesome DIY and the follow up info [emoji1373].

My car threw a check engine light a few weeks ago for p0491 so I did a light google search, checked the fuses and reset the code since they were good. After a few hundred miles the code came back this weekend. This time it was p0491 & p0492. I found this thread so I went looking at my vacuum lines and found this one disconnected.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/26de856ad4a23f1b2fc6de59019b781b.jpg

This connects to 16 in the diagram posted, and the line goes under the driver's side timing belt cover correct? I see the plastic connector it ends
at that is close to the power steering fluid reservoir but I can't follow the line that far with my hand. I'm planning to take off the headlight as suggested, but do I need to remove the timing cover as well? Also, unlike the other vacuum hoses this one looks like it plugs in. Would anyone tell me where to splice it once the new line has been fished through. Hope someone can chime in, thanks guys!

[SJorge3442]

Thank you all for this awesome DIY and the follow up info [emoji1373].

My car threw a check engine light a few weeks ago for p0491 so I did a light google search, checked the fuses and reset the code since they were good. After a few hundred miles the code came back this weekend. This time it was p0491 & p0492. I found this thread so I went looking at my vacuum lines and found this one disconnected.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/26de856ad4a23f1b2fc6de59019b781b.jpg

This connects to 16 in the diagram posted, and the line goes under the driver's side timing belt cover correct? I see the plastic connector it ends
at that is close to the power steering fluid reservoir but I can't follow the line that far with my hand. I'm planning to take off the headlight as suggested, but do I need to remove the timing cover as well? Also, unlike the other vacuum hoses this one looks like it plugs in. Would anyone tell me where to splice it once the new line has been fished through. Hope someone can chime in, thanks guys!
I ran my line around the back of the engine bay and skipped over the hard line that runs behind the timing cover. If I'm remembering correctly, the line actually runs behind the timing compartment and just goes right to that blue vacuum canister.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[f0reignfeatures]

I ran my line around the back of the engine bay and skipped over the hard line that runs behind the timing cover. If I'm remembering correctly, the line actually runs behind the timing compartment and just goes right to that blue vacuum canister.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Okay thanks for the reply! I know what you're talking about. Are you sure though? Take a look at this picture it shows the line ending close to the bottom of the coolant reservoir.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/e16d003e56f466a574cee1eef4aefd74.jpg

That blue canister is towards more towards the front of the bumper. I'm going to take the belly pan and headlight off tomorrow to check.


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[SJorge3442]

Okay thanks for the reply! I know what you're talking about. Are you sure though? Take a look at this picture it shows the line ending close to the bottom of the coolant reservoir.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/e16d003e56f466a574cee1eef4aefd74.jpg

That blue canister is towards more towards the front of the bumper. I'm going to take the belly pan and headlight off tomorrow to check.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got mixed up on your picture. At that T, one line goes to the vacuum actuator in the front of the intake, the one goes to the blue vacuum canister and the other goes up to the vacuum connection under the rear Audi cover.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[f0reignfeatures]

Got mixed up on your picture. At that T, one line goes to the vacuum actuator in the front of the intake, the one goes to the blue vacuum canister and the other goes up to the vacuum connection under the rear Audi cover.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Okay got it. So right now the lines on the T on my car that are connected are the one going to vacuum actuator, and the one that goes alongside the valve cover to connect to the rear Audi cover (four rings). So if I understood correctly then the one disconnected is in fact the one going to the blue vacuum canister.

Here's some other pictures for reference. I know that first one doesn't provide much detail.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/7f81758f0664fe7cbb90d9f7b38244fc.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/7f95e1036c0e3ea27bc4a77a6c43ecae.jpg

p.s. please ignore the power steering fluid you see. The one time connector was letting out a slow leak that I fixed with a hose clamp a few months ago, just didn't clean everything up that well.


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[f0reignfeatures]

**Just re-read my post, I know it's not to the rear audi cover but somewhere in that general area.


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[SJorge3442]

Okay got it. So right now the lines on the T on my car that are connected are the one going to vacuum actuator, and the one that goes alongside the valve cover to connect to the rear Audi cover (four rings). So if I understood correctly then the one disconnected is in fact the one going to the blue vacuum canister.

Here's some other pictures for reference. I know that first one doesn't provide much detail.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/7f81758f0664fe7cbb90d9f7b38244fc.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/7f95e1036c0e3ea27bc4a77a6c43ecae.jpg

p.s. please ignore the power steering fluid you see. The one time connector was letting out a slow leak that I fixed with a hose clamp a few months ago, just didn't clean everything up that well.


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Yes. The disconnected line goes to the vacuum canister. It is supposed to connect to a hard line that runs over there, but you can run a normal vacuum line.

[f0reignfeatures]

Yes. The disconnected line goes to the vacuum canister. It is supposed to connect to a hard line that runs over there, but you can run a normal vacuum line.

Awesome, just ordered some vacuum line that should be getting here by the end of the week. Thanks for your help man! [emoji1360]


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[SJorge3442]

Awesome, just ordered some vacuum line that should be getting here by the end of the week. Thanks for your help man! [emoji1360]


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Not a problem. Make sure you change out the check valve too!

[f0reignfeatures]

Not a problem. Make sure you change out the check valve too!

Why does the check valve need to be changed?


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[SJorge3442]

Why does the check valve need to be changed?


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It's just good maintenance to put a fresh one in. Over time the old one starts to not perform as well as it should. They don't always continue holding the correct pressure

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[deyrag]

The end that comes from behind the timing belt cover and connects to the plumbing near the vacuum accumulator (the blue bottle) although it does not connect directly to it.

http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b572/deyrag/IMG_0285_zpse699d3aa.jpg

The part that disappears behind the timing belt cover and goes up to the tee. It is a hard plastic line with a short section of rubber hose on each to make the connections. You can see the channel formed in the cover where it runs behind it.

http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b572/deyrag/IMG_0290_zps60ca0e8c.jpg

[f0reignfeatures]

It's just good maintenance to put a fresh one in. Over time the old one starts to not perform as well as it should. They don't always continue holding the correct pressure

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Ahh okay I read some people here went with the cheap ones. Any suggestions? I've seen aftermarket as low as $3 and OEM for about $30, huge price jump. Also, to be clear, this is what you mean correct?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/ba63bf33ceba40d57366ec6f49c0de43.jpg

Thanks!



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[SJorge3442]

Ahh okay I read some people here went with the cheap ones. Any suggestions? I've seen aftermarket as low as $3 and OEM for about $30, huge price jump. Also, to be clear, this is what you mean correct?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/ba63bf33ceba40d57366ec6f49c0de43.jpg

Thanks!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. Thats what I'm talking about. Its at the center of the engine at the back under the Audi logo color. Be sure to take note which way flow is moving when you take the old one off. I have an aftermarket one and I've been good for 3+ years at this point. Your call on the choice though.

[f0reignfeatures]

The end that comes from behind the timing belt cover and connects to the plumbing near the vacuum accumulator (the blue bottle) although it does not connect directly to it.

http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b572/deyrag/IMG_0285_zpse699d3aa.jpg

The part that disappears behind the timing belt cover and goes up to the tee. It is a hard plastic line with a short section of rubber hose on each to make the connections. You can see the channel formed in the cover where it runs behind it.

http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b572/deyrag/IMG_0290_zps60ca0e8c.jpg

Thanks deyrag! These pictures really help clear up what I was asking! I sent you one last PM, after that I should be good to go!


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[f0reignfeatures]

Yup. Thats what I'm talking about. Its at the center of the engine at the back under the Audi logo color. Be sure to take note which way flow is moving when you take the old one off. I have an aftermarket one and I've been good for 3+ years at this point. Your call on the choice though.

Got it, thanks again for everything man!


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[Prplhz96]

Thanks for the write up, made life much easier on my 3.0 . One question tho, I removed and cleaned my tb when I did the vacuum hoses(my vacuum hoses were a disaster from previous owner trying to fix stuff), and I noticed on the intake tube near the tb, there is a molded nipple coming off the backside. Mine has a vacuum cap on it, but I was wondering if this nipple should have a vacuum hose running to somewhere?

[SJorge3442]

Thanks for the write up, made life much easier on my 3.0 . One question tho, I removed and cleaned my tb when I did the vacuum hoses(my vacuum hoses were a disaster from previous owner trying to fix stuff), and I noticed on the intake tube near the tb, there is a molded nipple coming off the backside. Mine has a vacuum cap on it, but I was wondering if this nipple should have a vacuum hose running to somewhere?

Can you take a picture of what you're refering too? Im thinking is for the intake "muffler" which runs off of the main intake tube and then down into the intake manifold. Some people remove the resonator so that the intake makes a little more noise.

[ericbull]

Any chance this guide can be reposted with the photos, or does anyone know where else it might be posted? All of the images are MIA

[SlickFix]

Sorry, I just saw that my photobucket account has lapsed. I'll get the pics back online soon.

[shurur9]

I just want to add that the two black plastic lines can be replaced with clear 4mm OD Mecedes cohline.
You can get it cheap on ebay or autohausaz.

[2002A6ML]

I can't see the pictures. Any ideas? New to the site and Audi.
Look forward to learning new stuff and getting my 02 A6 Avant in stellar shape.

[SlickFix]

Sorry, but photobucket has really screwed its customers. I have to copy all of my pics to dropbox and then re-insert them into the DIY. I will try to do this as soon as possible. But please understand that it's going to be a PITA for me to do this. Bottom line, photobucket is making all of its customers upgrade to its top tier account in order to be able to share pics on other sites. [down]

[2002A6ML]

Hi SlickFix,

Thank you for the update and truly appreciate your help.

Have a great day!

[Ken Kayoshi]

Hi SlickFix.
I'm new to Audi and Audizine and this really helps a lot. I am also not getting the pictures. I know it's a lot of work, but is there any way you can forward the pics or post it another way? Even if you just label the pics in order from 1+ I can try to figure it out. You don't realize how much your info and people who contribute in this forum help people all over the world save money and fix their car. It's a lifesaver...so thank you SlickFix!

[shurur9]

Hi SlickFix.
I'm new to Audi and Audizine and this really helps a lot. I am also not getting the pictures. I know it's a lot of work, but is there any way you can forward the pics or post it another way? Even if you just label the pics in order from 1+ I can try to figure it out. You don't realize how much your info and people who contribute in this forum help people all over the world save money and fix their car. It's a lifesaver...so thank you SlickFix!

You really just need ~9 feet 4mm ID silcone hose (ecs tuning) and about 5 (maybe 3) feet of 4mm od cohline (ebay/ecs tuning).
Then you just replace one rubber/plastic line at a time with the silicone/cohline; so you don't miss a connection.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-forge-parts/silicone-vacuum-hose-blue-9-feet/vc04/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-cohline-parts/vacuum-line-10x40mm/0001581435-3~coh/

[onebadtazdevil]

Slick Fix,
Can you repost this article or email it to me. The photos/pictures are no longer showing.

Thanks

[pablolizarraga]

The photos/pictures are no longer showing.


Add this extension to your Chrome browser and you should be able to see pics.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en



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[onebadtazdevil]

Thanks pablolizarraga.. Once I added the extension it worked fine.

[SlickFix]

Add this extension to your Chrome browser and you should be able to see pics.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en



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Yay, thank you so much onebadtazdevil! You just saved me a whole shit ton of work. I was going to replace all the pics today, but now I don't have to. Wahoo!

[ralleyquattro]

Anyone have this DIY saved with pictures? Thanks!

[SJorge3442]

Anyone have this DIY saved with pictures? Thanks!

Literally 3 posts above this is the explanation of how to fix the photo issue....[rolleyes]

[ralleyquattro]

Literally 3 posts above this is the explanation of how to fix the photo issue....[rolleyes]

Thank you!! Had no idea there was a fix of all fixes... yeay!!

[Rikone]

I greet everyone, and I am asking for help. the vacuum duct was quite loose and it fell out ... I do not know where to put it out yet the terrible mule was kicked ... please, I will be very grateful. a4 b6 3.0 2002

[Rikone]

I apologize for mistakes in the language, but I write from Poland :) I can not add something ... this tube goes under the air filter and there goes somewhere ... the longest vacuum tube

[SJorge3442]

I apologize for mistakes in the language, but I write from Poland :) I can not add something ... this tube goes under the air filter and there goes somewhere ... the longest vacuum tube

thats going to be your secondary jet pump line. It goes down to the SAI pump and then routes fresh air to the exhaust during startup. YOu should be able to see the pump below the air filter housing.

[Rikone]

thats going to be your secondary jet pump line. It goes down to the SAI pump and then routes fresh air to the exhaust during startup. YOu should be able to see the pump below the air filter housing.


thanks for showing interest. in other words, do I have to plug in the SAI pump somewhere?

[pablolizarraga]

in other words, do I have to plug in the SAI pump somewhere?
Pictures are worth 1,000 words.
69066



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[Rikone]

thanks for the help. Today after work I will be looking for a connection at SAI, and I thought I had a good look at it.

[pablolizarraga]

thanks for the help. Today after work I will be looking for a connection at SAI, and I thought I had a good look at it.

You’re welcome! Videos are even better!

Secondary Air Injection (SAI)
SAI Systems on German Cars
https://youtu.be/Zj-_bAiPq9Y

Edge Motors Secondary Air Injection (SAI) diagnosis and repair
https://youtu.be/Hfh1wK0UlKo


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[Rikone]

in my own country, they did not help me like you here: D will I be able to get to this valve without a channel? is it right at the pump?

[Rikone]

unfortunately I still have the problem :( and I found one of the wires that comes out of the pump but there is no going away ... I will send a picture of which movie and cable I have a problem with, please check the movie or it is well connected

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[Rikone]

693256932669327

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[Rikone]

unfortunately I can not upload a movie here

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[Rikone]

I will add that this is the US version

[pablolizarraga]

Take off your headlight. https://youtu.be/84sZn5IqXjQ

Follow that disconnected line and use the diagram as a map. It looks like that hose should be connected to #9, #11, or #13. Good luck!


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[Rikone]

Take off your headlight. https://youtu.be/84sZn5IqXjQ

Follow that disconnected line and use the diagram as a map. It looks like that hose should be connected to #9, #11, or #13. Good luck!


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I'm almost at the end because I checked everything. And only the vacuum accumulator remains. Only where is he?69519

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[pablolizarraga]

69536


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[Rikone]

69536


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I found this vacuum tank, but I am still looking for it from the picture which I inserted above

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[Rikone]

I found a vacuum battery but it still is not ... :( I checked everything except this one ... and it turns out that this is point 4 in the given figure, but where to look for it?
this is my last attempt if I do not find point 4 I will be forced to give it to mechanics ...: /69766

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[pablolizarraga]

69884


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[Rikone]

69884


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it turned out that the wiring harness of valve 6 was interrupted by a lack of power ... the vacuum tube still remains a mystery. This is a US version and no one from the mechanics can help me, so I'm letting go. Thanks for all the help!


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[QuattroVAG]

Did anyone's car already have rubber lines? I am trying to figure out if the previous owner already did this work or later model cars (05) came with rubber vac hoses from the factory. The hoses are audi branded

[Deerhurst]

Did anyone's car already have rubber lines? I am trying to figure out if the previous owner already did this work or later model cars (05) came with rubber vac hoses from the factory. The hoses are audi branded

From my limited knowledge Audi uses a rubber line with a fabric cover.

[magnatron]

This is amazing, great help, I am doing it right now.

Alltough, I can't see where your Inlet one goes, bottom right, you write that this line goes in to the inlet via a small hole. But ... It goes literally in BANK 2 and disappears?? Anyone can help me here?

My added text and extra arrows (bottom right) in the original photo in post one; "Where does this line ends up? As I can nowhere find anything on the right side?"

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201214/f503abc28b8f5faf7d00cd01243391c1.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201214/57c47644195646ac4fa0ab74fe5c6328.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201214/5eb5c6466f730c6fa7d4fb3c94615052.jpg

[Turbo510]

I'll take a look this evening and see if I can get a good photo for you. However, the hose location which you show as the right arrow goes to the leak detection pump, back in the LR wheel well.

On my car there is a plastic tube which runs under the intake manifold along the driver's side of the engine. By rubber hose at each end, it connects to the vacuum source to the SAI solenoid valve, and a "T" for the manifold changeover valve and LDP.

[magnatron]

I'll take a look this evening and see if I can get a good photo for you. However, the hose location which you show as the right arrow goes to the leak detection pump, back in the LR wheel well.

On my car, there is a plastic tube that runs under the intake manifold along the driver's side of the engine. By rubber hose at each end, it connects to the vacuum source to the SAI solenoid valve, and a "T" for the manifold changeover valve and LDP.

Thank you so much, I am very curious. How are you supposed to renew this exact hose? Do you need to put it on a lift, and via the underside? But then you are looking at the exhaust manifold, and you need to be above that right (speaking from under?)
Or just from the top, and pull towards the wheel and wiggle a bit? AAH! drama.. haha :)

[john_gonzo]

That vacuum line (plastic pipe) runs between the cylinder head and a plastic cover. The cover is behind the toothed timing belt. The cover has Audi part number 06C109195C and it's item 2 in the diagram below.

I replaced mine with silicone hose while installing a timing kit. If you suspect a leak in that hidden section, you could temporarily route vacuum tubing around it and then return it to stock routing when the next timing belt is installed.

https://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/images/parts/Audi/fullsize/249109900.jpg
Source: Jim Ellis Audi

[magnatron]

That vacuum line (plastic pipe) runs between the cylinder head and a plastic cover. The cover is behind the toothed timing belt. The cover has Audi part number 06C109195C and it's item 2 in the diagram below.

I replaced mine with silicone hose while installing a timing kit. If you suspect a leak in that hidden section, you could temporarily route vacuum tubing around it and then return it to stock routing when the next timing belt is installed.

https://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/images/parts/Audi/fullsize/249109900.jpg
Source: Jim Ellis AudiThis is great info, thanks so much. The only thing I now need to know is: where does it go??

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[pablolizarraga]

This is great info, thanks so much. The only thing I now need to know is: where does it go??

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G973F met Tapatalk

Here...
211125

Im pretty sure I was able to run the silicone line where the original plastic line was without having to remove covers.
Although I didn’t have to, a wire coat hanger through the silicone line might make it easier to snake it through the original location.
211127



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[john_gonzo]

This is great info, thanks so much. The only thing I now need to know is: where does it go??

I don't know the final destination.

The vacuum line exits from behind that cover, passes over the frame rail, alongside the fat hose from the power steering reservoir (a plastic clip secures the vacuum line to the ps hose), up around the power steering reservoir, toward the front corner of the car where it disappears into the abyss by the fender and headlight.

I tied my new vacuum hose in above the frame rail, the rest was not brittle.

Edit: Yes pablolizarraga! In his first pic, that yellow arrow points to where I attached the new tubing.

Edit 2: I'm guessing this line eventually connects to that blue tri-sphere vacuum bottle visible in the pic.

[magnatron]

Here...
211125

Im pretty sure I was able to run the silicone line where the original plastic line was without having to remove covers.
Although I didn’t have to, a wire coat hanger through the silicone line might make it easier to snake it through the original location.
211127



Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Whooohoo! This is super helpfull, thank you both so much!
For now, I'll order vacuüm lines, and make a bypass.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

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[shurur9]

Mercedes cohline..ebay.

1mm x 4mm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Mercedes-Benz-Vacuum-Line-White-1-0-X-4-0-mm-COHLINE-000-158-14-35-/191069008167

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/13204346-0001581435?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=feedmobile_Mercedes&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2uH-BRCCARIsAEeef3nc4PxNOs56syZDBTFVO9DFMiy83y0a6GDzR7 9mL8KTs40aJnTqNioaAgCkEALw_wcB

[magnatron]

Whooohoo! This is super helpfull, thank you both so much!
For now, I'll order vacuüm lines, and make a bypass.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

New update;
I've got this in my own full thread as well: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/916687-A6-Avant-3-0-Quattro-Amsterdam-Full-thread?p=14382929#post14382929
But to share the knowledge and share the new photo's from my situation, I do post it here too, in order to keep this data very central. Again, thanks for the amazing write-up on this topic!


It Seems that my vacuum lines came in early (Fuel line 3.2MM) super nice and flexible, but very strong material.

https://scontent.fams1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131926328_461759005222731_8587356209300307201_o.jp g?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=2ILdSNFzea4AX-alvLm&_nc_ht=scontent.fams1-1.fna&oh=7ecb22a6331f6c6317680c24f9941dc7&oe=60037FB0


It's a really amazing how-to and good to find some extra photos. As it's being said; work super carefully, as I broke the:
Air Intake pressurized solenoid valve 037 906 283 C

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Zmr6uLOeL._AC_SY400_.jpg


Text in the photos: "

Green stripes are the original way, behind the intake manifold and the timing belt"
"I've tried to put it in the original hole, below the valve cover, and behind the timing belt, but for now I'll make a bypass"

https://scontent.fams1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131616205_461731348558830_2882560442442847968_o.jp g?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=PxvA6ioQ0E0AX8miIpC&_nc_ht=scontent.fams1-1.fna&oh=526e81fdfbde09563f8b4eaec66e6d57&oe=6001F8A0

Text in the photos:"

Vacuum hose connector that you can take apart"
"It's right behind the headlight driver side, so you really need to take it out in order to have this space"

https://scontent.fams1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131692727_461731351892163_6421172362877169424_o.jp g?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=kaWZSZHJDVsAX89_VBb&_nc_ht=scontent.fams1-1.fna&oh=ef62522b2c73348b88e29c630167a87a&oe=6001FE21


Text in the photos:

"This is all the same vacuum hose that goes in the intake manifold from on top. Here i've made a photo of the connector where i was talking about in the last photo"

https://scontent.fams1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131822890_461731341892164_4014710545323672473_o.jp g?_nc_cat=106&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=RDu6biKUxu8AX_kumlV&_nc_oc=AQmHPTe168l-CaMGhAV4oKppai4PTvPUgqkZDE3sqP0VLJ1QQOgEhjIX_LANLL dXCjCYz_lWOf1rf_f_EhrYJyUy&_nc_ht=scontent.fams1-1.fna&oh=271a5a9065a1c858f43fcf92c3d222e0&oe=60015918

[Rsf]

Hi, i really enjoy the write up and photos. My issue is the photos have a grey banner across them saying photo bucket. Most ofmy vac lines are off the car completely. Are. There any otherclearer photos that can help me withthis nightmare

[shurur9]

Hi, i really enjoy the write up and photos. My issue is the photos have a grey banner across them saying photo bucket. Most ofmy vac lines are off the car completely. Are. There any otherclearer photos that can help me withthis nightmare

There are quite a few just a few posted before yours.

Were you doing something else that made you have to pull all those hoses?

What's done is done, but most just replace one hose at a time in order to cut to the correct lengths.

I would start at the vac tank and go out from there...post number 206. That's the line coming out by the steering pump supply hose.

You want 3mm - 4mm silicone line and 1mm cohline.

[jdog6973]

Thank you for the excellent wright up!