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View Full Version : V8 Models: What Flywheel And Clutch Combo Are You Running?



Nollywood
10-11-2012, 06:19 AM
Hello guys!

I've decided to start this thread, due to different options when running either a factory manual, or converting the ZF5HP19/24A to manual.

Some folk run their chosen flywheel and clutch set-up in conjunction with an engine-to-transmission spacer, either from the B5 S4, or the slightly thinner one from the B7. Now, there's no spacer option listed for the C5 or D2 V8, when running an 01E 6-speed manual. I'm running a genuine Audi S8 D2 flywheel, with matching friction disc and pressure plate. Stack height is 85,0mm. Now I've had no contact between the clutch pressure plate and 01E tranny, when bolted to the engine. No spacer fitted.

Why do some users experience clutch pressure plate-to-tranny contact, resulting in the need of a spacer? Is it down to what flywheel and clutch you choose? Please post your set-up, include stack height, if possible with a picture. My combo is shown below:

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/S8-Powered%20Audi%20A4%20Touring%20Car/2012-10-10-661.jpg

Nollywood
10-11-2012, 08:21 AM
C'mon, guys! There must be a whole bunch of V8 owners here, that have pulled their manual trans to replace a clutch, or converted their tip to manual?

Audimuscle
10-11-2012, 08:45 AM
I have JHM LWFW, B7 RS4 PP with JHM Stage 4 Clutch. I tried with the stock flywheel but it was to thick so I just went with the LWFW to avoid having to shave the flywheel. There is a member here that did the resizing on the stock flywheel his nick is a6v8 i beleive.

sorry I donn't have any measurements

Nollywood
10-11-2012, 09:08 AM
^^^ I see. So I take it the JHM clutch is taller than the stock C5 item?

Scotty@Advanced
10-11-2012, 09:22 AM
Hello guys!

I've decided to start this thread, due to different options when running either a factory manual, or converting the ZF5HP19/24A to manual.

Some folk run their chosen flywheel and clutch set-up in conjunction with an engine-to-transmission spacer, either from the B5 S4, or the slightly thinner one from the B7. Now, there's no spacer option listed for the C5 or D2 V8, when running an 01E 6-speed manual. I'm running a genuine Audi S8 D2 flywheel, with matching friction disc and pressure plate. Stack height is 85,0mm. Now I've had no contact between the clutch pressure plate and 01E tranny, when bolted to the engine. No spacer fitted.

Why do some users experience clutch pressure plate-to-tranny contact, resulting in the need of a spacer? Is it down to what flywheel and clutch you choose? Please post your set-up, include stack height, if possible with a picture. My combo is shown below:

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/S8-Powered%20Audi%20A4%20Touring%20Car/2012-10-10-661.jpg

I looked into using the B6/B7 flywheel and the starter ring gear is larger by several teeth. It may be possible to use the flywheel with a B5/C5 ring gear but I didn't go that far.

Many use the B5 setup with the spacer with good results. I've done this route as well as went the Euro S6 route with a European S6/S8 flywheel, you don't need the spacer for that option, but the flywheel is pretty expensive.

Nollywood
10-11-2012, 10:35 AM
I looked into using the B6/B7 flywheel and the starter ring gear is larger by several teeth. It may be possible to use the flywheel with a B5/C5 ring gear but I didn't go that far.

Many use the B5 setup with the spacer with good results. I've done this route as well as went the Euro S6 route with a European S6/S8 flywheel, you don't need the spacer for that option, but the flywheel is pretty expensive.


That's interesting, I've never looked at the B6/7 flywheel option. This OEM S8 flywheel cost me $326, so was a pretty good deal, considering it had to come from Germany. It's single-mass too, which made it even more appealing.

Scotty@Advanced
10-11-2012, 11:09 AM
That's interesting, I've never looked at the B6/7 flywheel option. This OEM S8 flywheel cost me $326, so was a pretty good deal, considering it had to come from Germany. It's single-mass too, which made it even more appealing.

Lucky you, My cost is ~350 Euro before shipping.

alterdcreations
10-11-2012, 11:26 AM
I used a s4 aluminum flywheel and a stock a6 2.7 clutch. After break in, it holds fullpower [rolleyes] I have a spec stage 3+ waiting for transplant[headbang]

demon_s8
07-11-2015, 10:56 PM
Hey, I'm hoping someone in this group can help me in this forum. I'm in the middle of doing the b5 v8 conversion. But it won't start. I'm wondering if you guys can help me out. When utilizing the dual mass flywheel, do you remember if all bolts lined up? When I have the engine set at TDC and try and have the home position on the flywheel at the CPS, all the bolts don't go in.

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julex
07-13-2015, 06:03 AM
Well, what do you consider "home position"?

demon_s8
07-13-2015, 06:13 AM
Well, what do you consider "home position"?
I'm utilizing the 30v dual mass flywheel. The home position is the double blank space on the trigger wheel portion of flywheel. Did you use a similar set up on your swap?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/f8a778522ee616d4bab14cfab858a050.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/39e4b7a02b16bd479049f996749d4abf.jpg

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rollerton
07-13-2015, 09:46 AM
Pretty sure people have used that flywheel before-- but FWIW I think there was a thread where it was found that the trigger wheel was not oriented right on a couple different flywheels, compared to where the CPS goes on the trans.
Last year there was a discussion that showed some flywheels (Fidanza for one?) could be positioned a couple different ways on the crank. I'd be surprised if that was possible with an OEM unit. But..I guess if you want to use that FW you have to find out how the holes line up and decide if the CPS position matches up.

p.s. I'm doing my clutch again soon- if someone recently has used the stock A6 clutch (non Rs4) on a V8 and had it NOT slip that would be great news. I'm done with the Rs4 setup, too stiff.

Scotty@Advanced
07-13-2015, 04:16 PM
Pretty sure people have used that flywheel before-- but FWIW I think there was a thread where it was found that the trigger wheel was not oriented right on a couple different flywheels, compared to where the CPS goes on the trans.
Last year there was a discussion that showed some flywheels (Fidanza for one?) could be positioned a couple different ways on the crank. I'd be surprised if that was possible with an OEM unit. But..I guess if you want to use that FW you have to find out how the holes line up and decide if the CPS position matches up.

p.s. I'm doing my clutch again soon- if someone recently has used the stock A6 clutch (non Rs4) on a V8 and had it NOT slip that would be great news. I'm done with the Rs4 setup, too stiff.

For an S6? I wouldn't use it, several of my swap customers who have used the stock S4 clutch reported slipping at WOT after break in.

rollerton
07-13-2015, 04:45 PM
For an S6? I wouldn't use it, several of my swap customers who have used the stock S4 clutch reported slipping at WOT after break in.

I was actually going to call you, Scotty. So..not to thead-jack....but...what are my options then with an OEM DMFW? Rs4 or nothing?

SteveKen
07-13-2015, 08:21 PM
For the NA 4.2, I say you can't go wrong with the stock DMFW (with lip machined off of the rear face where it would otherwise hit the rear main seal cover) and the stock B5 RS4 clutch ans pressure plate.

Ko4S4WI
07-14-2015, 06:19 AM
For the NA 4.2, I say you can't go wrong with the stock DMFW (with lip machined off of the rear face where it would otherwise hit the rear main seal cover) and the stock B5 RS4 clutch ans pressure plate.

Also, there is a "spacer" so you do not have to have the flywheel machined.

demon_s8
07-14-2015, 04:09 PM
I have in the spacer between the crank and flywheel , learned that the hard way the first time.... my whole issue is the car won't start..... so, I asked a tech at the dealer who incorrectly advised me that the home position on the flywheel needs to be at the CPS @ TDC. Totally incorrect . At that setting only 6 of 8 bolts are able to go into crank shaft.


The timing is spot on yet the car backfires into intake and floods, everytime. I get spark and fuel. I used the bar to lock cam gears, locking pin at crank and marks align @ the intake cams as well, compression is 190 across and it still won't start.

Immo defeat done by dillinger and the engine came out of a vehicle that ran and drove ....

I'M ABOUT TO USE A GAS AND MATCH!!!!

Any help gladly appreciated.

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rollerton
07-14-2015, 06:07 PM
You just need to verify that you're looking at the crank trigger spot and TDC the right way and double check which flywheel you're using. I'd guess there are half a dozen V6 flywheels that might physically bolt on, but be from a variety of engines where the CPS was in a different place in the trans- like FWD cars or a VW or something. I'm just guessing, but there are a few ways it could be mis-matched.
I mean- you're putting a V8 in an A4? Is the A4 quattro or FWD?
And what car specifically did that flywheel come from?
What I'd do is research where the STOCK S8 (would be a TC/ flex plate combo in the U.S.) crank trigger sits when on TDC and compare to what you end up with that flywheel. From what I've seen most people in the C5 world use either the A6 (S4) DMFW or an aftermarket SMFW. Though I've read the 2.8 V6 flywheel can be used- clutch setup just isn't as available to hold power.

demon_s8
07-14-2015, 06:17 PM
You just need to verify that you're looking at the crank trigger spot and TDC the right way and double check which flywheel you're using. I'd guess there are half a dozen V6 flywheels that might physically bolt on, but be from a variety of engines where the CPS was in a different place in the trans- like FWD cars or a VW or something. I'm just guessing, but there are a few ways it could be mis-matched.
I mean- you're putting a V8 in an A4? Is the A4 quattro or FWD?
And what car specifically did that flywheel come from?
What I'd do is research where the STOCK S8 (would be a TC/ flex plate combo in the U.S.) crank trigger sits when on TDC and compare to what you end up with that flywheel. From what I've seen most people in the C5 world use either the A6 (S4) DMFW or an aftermarket SMFW. Though I've read the 2.8 V6 flywheel can be used- clutch setup just isn't as available to hold power.
I went with what I thought was the easiest route .I specifically looked for the 2.8 v6 quattro(2001) because in all the forum's, it is said to be the best platform for conversion. I actually pretty much mimicked Bhusted with his conversion, so I'm certain that the flywheel (dual mass) can work. I went as far as to check a spare flywheel from a 1998 and all marking points match. Unless audi has more than one DMF???? For that year

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demon_s8
07-19-2015, 02:52 PM
Is anyone on this chat who has done the b5v8 swap in the tri state area? If so I would like to see if my computer is able to start another vehicle. If not, it's a strong probability that I purchased a faulty ecu from the junk yard.

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Scotty@Advanced
07-19-2015, 03:32 PM
Though I've read the 2.8 V6 flywheel can be used- clutch setup just isn't as available to hold power.


Stock 2.8 clutch is enough for a bone stock (not S) V8, and southbend makes a beefed up version that is 600 ft/lbs if you need that much clutch.

Jsol
01-18-2017, 06:59 PM
Stock 2.8 clutch is enough for a bone stock (not S) V8, and southbend makes a beefed up version that is 600 ft/lbs if you need that much clutch.

Does the southbend 600ft/lbs work with the dual mass 2.8 flywheel?

Niebelheim
01-18-2017, 09:46 PM
Just a quick info for those interested (maybe mainly Europeans) I bought my flywheel from TTV Racing. They make single mass flywheels, and they have for both 8- and 10-bolt cranks. The flywheel is based on a 2.7t flywheel, but is made 11mm thinner, so you don't need the spacer between the engine and gearbox. Fits with a B5 S4 clutch. Worked perfectly on my 00 S6. The price is £360 included shipping to Norway. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/3007c938fafcfc9da167fec131e2ccf5.jpg

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Jsol
03-21-2017, 01:55 AM
I was just about to purchase a TTV flywheel for the 4.2 turbo I am building but was worried the stock B5 RS4 clutch wouldn't handle the torque. I already have a Tilton cerametallic twin plate clutch and flywheel setup for an I5 . After comparing it to the 40v V8 auto flywheel they are very similar. The starter ring is the same and looks like I just need to turn down the I5 flywheel around the outside to the proper height to install the tone ring in the correct position. I can't post photos as I don't have enough posts I think.

Nollywood
06-12-2017, 07:28 AM
Jsol, I would advise you use a V8 flywheel.

It's best to go with what has been constantly proven to work, as opposed to using non-matched parts, just because you've got them lying around.

Jsol
06-18-2017, 07:01 PM
The 7A flywheel will work with some modification, but I think I will just buy the TTV F/W and OEM Sachs B5 RS4 clutch kit as I just can't find the time or space to get my B3 into the shed to remove the engine etc to use the flywheel.

Scotty@Advanced
06-19-2017, 04:32 AM
The 7A flywheel will work with some modification, but I think I will just buy the TTV F/W and OEM Sachs B5 RS4 clutch kit as I just can't find the time or space to get my B3 into the shed to remove the engine etc to use the flywheel.

7A flywheel does not have the teeth for the crank sensor.

Jsol
06-20-2017, 10:52 PM
7A flywheel does not have the teeth for the crank sensor.
Yes that's right. I was going to turn the flywheel down on the lathe and use the tone ring off the V8 flex plate.

Jeremyboukaia
07-11-2017, 11:19 PM
Ok guys need some help! 2001 Audi a8l 4.2l 40v swapped 6speed. Is my clutch correct or will I have problems? I have a 2004 all road 2.7t clutch and flywheel with spacer bolted to my 01E tranny. I haven't started the car yet but I feel like my clutch pedal dosnt have the right feel to it?.


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swamper8
07-12-2017, 09:06 AM
Ok guys need some help! 2001 Audi a8l 4.2l 40v swapped 6speed. Is my clutch correct or will I have problems? I have a 2004 all road 2.7t clutch and flywheel with spacer bolted to my 01E tranny. I haven't started the car yet but I feel like my clutch pedal dosnt have the right feel to it?.


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What's the thickness of your spacer? The Allroad used two different thickness spacers depending on if there was a automatic trans or a manual trans. I own both. I can measure them when I get home. When I had a 4.2L BAS motor in my Allroad with 01E trans I wound up using the auto trans spacer.
As stated earlier in this thread, if you used a stock 2.7T DMFW, you would have had to use a shim or spacer between the flywheel and the crank. Did that get put in there? I'm not sure what happens if you don't use it; either rubbing on the block or perhaps some issue with the starter.

swamper8
07-12-2017, 09:35 AM
Just a quick info for those interested (maybe mainly Europeans) I bought my flywheel from TTV Racing. They make single mass flywheels, and they have for both 8- and 10-bolt cranks. The flywheel is based on a 2.7t flywheel, but is made 11mm thinner, so you don't need the spacer between the engine and gearbox. Fits with a B5 S4 clutch. Worked perfectly on my 00 S6. The price is £360 included shipping to Norway. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/3007c938fafcfc9da167fec131e2ccf5.jpg

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What TTV PN did you purchase? The only one I see on their website that is as you describe (4.2L V8, no spacer, use B5S4 clutch) is PN 3580. However the descriptions says "Description: Audi 4.2 32v V8 to O1E" where as I think your motor (and my motor as well) are 40V 4.2's. Is this the one you purchased or did you get something different?
http://ttvracing.com/products/?manufacturers=audi&engine=audi-v8&type=flywheels

Niebelheim
07-12-2017, 09:40 AM
What TTV PN did you purchase? The only one I see on their website that is as you describe (4.2L V8, no spacer, use B5S4 clutch) is PN 3580. However the descriptions says "Description: Audi 4.2 32v V8 to O1E" where as I think your motor (and my motor as well) are 40V 4.2's. Is this the one you purchased or did you get something different?
http://ttvracing.com/products/?manufacturers=audi&engine=audi-v8&type=flywheels
No, the one I bought is PN 0883
It says 32v on it, but it still fit. I'm guessing the crankshaft is the same on 32v and 40v with 8-bolts?
http://ttvracing.com/product/audi-v8-4-2-8-bolt-to-o1eo1a-gearbox/?type=flywheels&engine=audi-v8&manufacturer=audi

swamper8
07-12-2017, 09:54 AM
oh I'm sorry, I put down the PN for the 10 bolt version. So you bought 0883. So per your post, your 01E is bolted directly to your engine block? And the flywheel is bolted directly to the crank? What did you use for a starter? Stock S8?

Niebelheim
07-12-2017, 10:04 AM
oh I'm sorry, I put down the PN for the 10 bolt version. So you bought 0883. So per your post, your 01E is bolted directly to your engine block? And the flywheel is bolted directly to the crank? What did you use for a starter? Stock S8?
Yes, no spacers needed anywhere. I used my stock S6 Starter, so I assume the stock S8 Starter will also work. Been driving the car daily for 7 months now, and not a single problem.

rollerton
07-12-2017, 10:27 AM
Here's the Flywheel I bought from SRM--> SRM ttv-flywheel (http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/ttv-flywheel) <--. Talked to them yesterday because I never got an order receipt / confirmation and they told me he literally had JUST 5 minutes earlier opened the new shipment from TTV and had a couple B7 flywheels to fill orders.
I used their order form and just slected "clutch type B7" . It's in the mail, he said I should have it Friday. AFAIK you still need the bellhousing spacer with just about every flywheel except the 2.8 ones? Do not need the shim behind the flywheel though. It shouldn't be confusing, any 2.7 application flywheel bolts right on, 8 bolt crank. I skipped the V8 application parts since the V6 ones are what everyone uses. If you Start trying to read TOO much detailed info from different sources then it's not so easy to understand.

Niebelheim
07-12-2017, 10:34 AM
Here's the Flywheel I bought from SRM--> SRM ttv-flywheel (http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/ttv-flywheel) <--. Talked to them yesterday because I never got an order receipt / confirmation and they told me he literally had JUST 5 minutes earlier opened the new shipment from TTV and had a couple B7 flywheels to fill orders.
I used their order form and just slected "clutch type B7" . It's in the mail, he said I should have it friday. AFAIK you still need the bellhousing spacer with just about every flywheel except the 2.8 ones. Do not need the shim behind the flywheel though.
Yes, if you order the flywheel for the 2.7 you need the spacer, because every 2.7 have a spacer (I was told).
But I talked to Ben Crisp at TTV before I bought the flywheel (to make sure it would fit my engine), and he said that they made the V8 conversion flywheels 11mm further out from the crank, so that you didn't need the spacer.
Like I said, it fit my car perfectly without any spacers.

Jeremyboukaia
07-12-2017, 11:18 AM
What's the thickness of your spacer? The Allroad used two different thickness spacers depending on if there was a automatic trans or a manual trans. I own both. I can measure them when I get home. When I had a 4.2L BAS motor in my Allroad with 01E trans I wound up using the auto trans spacer.
As stated earlier in this thread, if you used a stock 2.7T DMFW, you would have had to use a shim or spacer between the flywheel and the crank. Did that get put in there? I'm not sure what happens if you don't use it; either rubbing on the block or perhaps some issue with the starter.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/f9e5ed13366cbfe10ec0a3e996f6bed5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/66bc030b40d05cabe0917ed971e19557.jpg
Sorry for the bad photo but this is the transmission and spacer it came with. Out of the Manuel 2004 allroad. I've installed the tranny with and with out the spacer. I felt like when I tryed without the spacer I had a 1" gap so I did not want to bolt down the tranny and brake anything?



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Jeremyboukaia
07-12-2017, 11:26 AM
What's the thickness of your spacer? The Allroad used two different thickness spacers depending on if there was a automatic trans or a manual trans. I own both. I can measure them when I get home. When I had a 4.2L BAS motor in my Allroad with 01E trans I wound up using the auto trans spacer.
As stated earlier in this thread, if you used a stock 2.7T DMFW, you would have had to use a shim or spacer between the flywheel and the crank. Did that get put in there? I'm not sure what happens if you don't use it; either rubbing on the block or perhaps some issue with the starter.

It's been awhile ago I installed the tranny. But I remember that I had a issue with that flywheel rubbing the block. So I used a spacer that came from my auto 5hp24a flywheel. That gave me the clearance I needed. So my set up right now is 2.7t 01e tranny with 2.7t clutch and spacer bolted to a v8 4.2l 40v motor.


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swamper8
07-12-2017, 12:16 PM
It's been awhile ago I installed the tranny. But I remember that I had a issue with that flywheel rubbing the block. So I used a spacer that came from my auto 5hp24a flywheel. That gave me the clearance I needed. So my set up right now is 2.7t 01e tranny with 2.7t clutch and spacer bolted to a v8 4.2l 40v motor.


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Are you talking about that super thin shim (steel maybe .060") or the heavier/thicker one which is probably like 3/16"-1/4" give/take. For between the flywheel/crank.

I agree this shouldn't be that hard. As I discussed with Ben, it seems there's two (three actually) viable options when going with a V8/01E:

1.) TTV V8 flywheel and B5S4 clutch variant. As Niebelheim has reported as using successfully. No crank/flywheel shim and no bellhousing spacer
2.) TTV 2.7T/B5S4 flywheel and B5S4 clutch. Need bellhousing spacer. Don't know about crank/flywheel shim
3.) TTV 2.7T/B5S4 flywheel made specifically for B7RS4 clutch. Again, will need bellhousing spacer, not sure about crank/flywheel shim.

Niebelheim, what clutch did you choose? B5RS4?

Niebelheim
07-12-2017, 12:24 PM
Are you talking about that super thin shim (steel maybe .060") or the heavier/thicker one which is probably like 3/16"-1/4" give/take. For between the flywheel/crank.

I agree this shouldn't be that hard. As I discussed with Ben, it seems there's two (three actually) viable options when going with a V8/01E:

1.) TTV V8 flywheel and B5S4 clutch variant. As Niebelheim has reported as using successfully. No crank/flywheel spacer and no bellhousing shim
2.) TTV 2.7T/B5S4 flywheel and B5S4 clutch. Need bellhousing spacer. Don't know about crank/flywheel shim
3.) TTV 2.7T/B5S4 flywheel made specifically for B7RS4 clutch. Again, will need bellhousing spacer, not sure about crank/flywheel shim.

Niebelheim, what clutch did you choose? B5RS4?
I'm using a stock B5 S4 clutch, as instructed on the TTV site. As my car is a daily driver, I don't have many hard starts, but I have had a few rough starts, and the clutch just grips. I have also pulled heavy trailers without problem.

swamper8
07-12-2017, 12:36 PM
That's good to know. Looks like a 00' S6 is around 4000lbs. My Allroad is around 4300lbs so I was(am) worried about whether a stock B5S4 clutch would be sufficient. I simply can't pull this thing back apart again once it's together. I don't think I have it in me. That's the main reason why I'm torn between your setup and the TTV 2.7T flywheel w/B7 RS4 clutch; which is cheap compared to the B5RS4 clutch.

Jeremyboukaia
07-17-2017, 01:43 PM
That's good to know. Looks like a 00' S6 is around 4000lbs. My Allroad is around 4300lbs so I was(am) worried about whether a stock B5S4 clutch would be sufficient. I simply can't pull this thing back apart again once it's together. I don't think I have it in me. That's the main reason why I'm torn between your setup and the TTV 2.7T flywheel w/B7 RS4 clutch; which is cheap compared to the B5RS4 clutch.

Is your s6 a 4.2l 40v motor 8 bolt crank? Or is it the 10 bolt crank?


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Jeremyboukaia
07-17-2017, 01:51 PM
Sorry I miss read your post lol. So I am asking so I don't have to pull it apart again. Will my 40v v8 8 bolt crank with crank spacer between the crank and flywheel to a 2.7t flywheel and clutch out of a 2004 allroad with bellhousing spacer correct? The only thing I don't know right now is the thickness of the 5hp24a spacer from behind the auto flywheel that I am using in my 01e set up.


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rollerton
07-17-2017, 02:23 PM
Sorry I miss read your post lol. So I am asking so I don't have to pull it apart again. Will my 40v v8 8 bolt crank with crank spacer between the crank and flywheel to a 2.7t flywheel and clutch out of a 2004 allroad with bellhousing spacer correct? The only thing I don't know right now is the thickness of the 5hp24a spacer from behind the auto flywheel that I am using in my 01e set up.


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You do NOT want to use the spacer that's behind the flex plate in the auto. It's too thick. The shim you want is like 2mm thick, that's all it takes. And that is only needed if you're using a dual mass flywheel. If you use single mass, no shim needed. I have the part# for the shim you need somewhere, but it's from a 2.8L engine.

Here: "Quick Order
Part Number 035105303A
Part Name SHIM
MSRP $20.50
Core $0.00
Online Price $20.50
Parts guy said it was listed as 1.25mm, and intended to be installed between the bolts and the flex plate as a 'washer' on 01' Passat 2.8L...but otherwise seems identical to the 4.5mm 'shim' behind the flex plate.
Aha!
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...05303A/ES7436/ (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...05303A/ES7436/) "
In almost ALL cases you DO need the bellhousing spacer; seems like the only way you ditch that is with some version of the 2.8 flywheel or TTV's 'V8 specific' flywheel.

swamper8
07-17-2017, 02:40 PM
You can check fit for the bellhousing spacer by removing the clutch slave cylinder and pivot assembly. Start with the thick spacer (11.2MM) and mount the trans to the back of the motor. (flywheel attached, no clutch) You can shine a light in through the slave cylinder bore and see how far the nose of the trans input shaft has engaged the flywheel pilot bearing. If it's barely engaged, move to the auto trans spacer, which is 5.1MM. I used the auto trans spacer on my 4.2L Chain motor w/01E. But I don't know now if that was right. Maybe I had the pilot bearing set too far into the flywheel. I'm fairly certain that your/our setup will need the 11.2MM spacer. You'll definitely know if it's too thin because the trans just won't bolt up well to the engine block. The nose of the trans input shaft will bottom out in the pilot bearing . Don't force it!

Jeremyboukaia
07-17-2017, 03:19 PM
You do NOT want to use the spacer that's behind the flex plate in the auto. It's too thick. The shim you want is like 2mm thick, that's all it takes. And that is only needed if you're using a dual mass flywheel. If you use single mass, no shim needed. I have the part# for the shim you need somewhere, but it's from a 2.8L engine.

Here: "Quick Order
Part Number035105303A
Part NameSHIM
MSRP$20.50
Core$0.00
Online Price$20.50
Parts guy said it was listed as 1.25mm, and intended to be installed between the bolts and the flex plate as a 'washer' on 01' Passat 2.8L...but otherwise seems identical to the 4.5mm 'shim' behind the flex plate.
Aha!
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...05303A/ES7436/ (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...05303A/ES7436/) "
In almost ALL cases you DO need the bellhousing spacer; seems like the only way you ditch that is with some version of the 2.8 flywheel or TTV's 'V8 specific' flywheel.

Ok I'll order the shim and try it out


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rollerton
07-17-2017, 04:15 PM
Gotta tell ya... this looks like perfection.

http://i.imgur.com/Taglzld.jpg

Jeremyboukaia
07-17-2017, 04:40 PM
Gotta tell ya... this looks like perfection.

http://i.imgur.com/Taglzld.jpg

Send it my way with the correct spacer lol!!


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rollerton
07-17-2017, 05:39 PM
Send it my way with the correct spacer lol!!


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Pretty sure I don't need any flywheel spacer for this!

Jeremyboukaia
07-20-2017, 08:30 AM
Pretty sure I don't need any flywheel spacer for this!

Is there a special way to email the guys a ttv racing?! I sent emails with no response. I need to figure this clutch out. I need to know if when I buy my set up if I will use the block spacer to the trans. So I can have my drive shaft lengthened.




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rollerton
07-20-2017, 08:39 AM
Is there a special way to email the guys a ttv racing?! I sent emails with no response. I need to figure this clutch out. I need to know if when I buy my set up if I will use the block spacer to the trans. So I can have my drive shaft lengthened.

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Sometimes it takes a couple days to hear back, but I can tell you YES, you'll use the bellhousing spacer unless you get the V8 specific flywheel they offer. Every other flywheel generally keeps the same dimensions (except the 2.8 versions?) and you'll need the bellhousing spacer. Even if you didn't use the spacer I don't think you'd need to go through the trouble of stretching your driveshaft 11mm.

swamper8
07-20-2017, 09:23 AM
Is there a special way to email the guys a ttv racing?! I sent emails with no response. I need to figure this clutch out. I need to know if when I buy my set up if I will use the block spacer to the trans. So I can have my drive shaft lengthened.


Have you installed your driveshaft yet? I have a hard time believing the driveshaft from the automatic will work with the manual. (length) On the Allroad, if you swap a 01E in place of an auto, you need to either source a 6MT driveshaft or use a driveshaft spacer. They are made by at least one aftermarket company.
A bellhousing spacer has no affect on your driveshaft length because the 01E transmission bolts directly to the same sub frame mounts as the automatic. The different bellhousing spacers (or no spacer at all) just push the motor forward the thickness of the spacer; it doesn't push the trans back. Even though there's some slop in the engine mount bracket holes, really only one spacer will work (correctly) and that just takes some test fitting. I can put my motor/trans in, bolt to trans/engine mounts, unbolt and remove the whole engine in like 15 minutes. I've done it several times. I will be doing it again tonight, I will report back on what spacer I use. I got a free stock DMFW so I wound up going with a B5RS4 clutch. Came in at $375 for the setup.

rollerton
07-20-2017, 09:33 AM
Have you installed your driveshaft yet? I have a hard time believing the driveshaft from the automatic will work with the manual. (length) On the Allroad, if you swap a 01E in place of an auto, you need to either source a 6MT driveshaft or use a driveshaft spacer. They are made by at least one aftermarket company.

I was assuming he was already going to use the manual driveshaft and THEN have it lengthened so as to not use the spacer. No way the auto drive shaft works; actually I guess the auto 2.7 driveshaft does work with that spacer that you can get.

swamper8
07-20-2017, 09:44 AM
I was assuming he was already going to use the manual driveshaft and THEN have it lengthened so as to not use the spacer. No way the auto drive shaft works; actually I guess the auto 2.7 driveshaft does work with that spacer that you can get.

As far as my experience with Allroads (and A6's I believe) yes you can use a spacer with the auto driveshaft. He has an A8L so I have no idea what needs to be done for that. My assumption is that overall the A8 is longer than a Allroad/A6 but that doesn't mean that translates to a longer driveshaft. Jeremy, your 01E came from an Allroad correct? Did you also get the rear differential as well? The Allroad has a different final drive than most other Audi models. If the A8 rear diff doesn't match the Allroad trans you're going to have a wild first ride in the car.

Jeremyboukaia
07-20-2017, 11:15 AM
As far as my experience with Allroads (and A6's I believe) yes you can use a spacer with the auto driveshaft. He has an A8L so I have no idea what needs to be done for that. My assumption is that overall the A8 is longer than a Allroad/A6 but that doesn't mean that translates to a longer driveshaft. Jeremy, your 01E came from an Allroad correct? Did you also get the rear differential as well? The Allroad has a different final drive than most other Audi models. If the A8 rear diff doesn't match the Allroad trans you're going to have a wild first ride in the car.

Yes I have both drive shafts and both are the same length the auto will work. But need 4" added. I am 90% sure my tranny and diff came from a allroad. But my diff is a 4.11 rear end? So I might come from just a a6. It was a eBay posting from wolf auto parts they sell swap kits. I will look again so see the trans part number a rear diff. I got ahold of ttv and will be buying the correct flywheel. He also said to buy the rs4 clutch. I already swapped the rear diff in that came with the kit.


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Jeremyboukaia
07-20-2017, 11:20 AM
2001 audi a8l 6 speed swap

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=17679&share_tid=725679&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaudizine%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Fsh owthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D725679&share_type=t

Here is the link to my build.


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swamper8
07-20-2017, 11:31 AM
Allroad final drive is 4.375:1. If your diff is 4.11:1, then whoever put your swap kit together didn't know what they were doing. I'd probably double check your rear differential. 3.889:1 and 4.11:1 are common ratios to the Audi models like A4/A6/S4. You might want to get the serial number of the trans and better identify it. It may be out of an A6 or S4. Arguably those would be better choices as the gear spread in the Allroad 01E is really short and first gear belongs in a semi truck.

Check out using a spacer before you have your driveshaft lengthened. If you have it lengthened the shop will also have to balance it. Not many shops balance two-piece driveshafts anymore.

Audis4parts spacer:
http://audis4parts.com/audi-a6-tip-to-6-speed-transmission-conversion-swap-kit/audi-a6-allroad-manual-swap-driveshaft-spacer/

You may have to email them to get the length of it or to ask them if it would work on an A8.

Jeremyboukaia
07-20-2017, 04:20 PM
Sense you guys are awesome and know a lot! The sensor 60-2 tone ring on the flywheel. On the six speed the sensor is in a different location? I've got lot of answers on this but never the same ones! I have a me7.1.1 ecu flashed with the German manual file. Can anyone shed some light on this sensor for me. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/be19b275b1c7fcbb0756ccd7ab9d70fd.jpg screw drives indicate the different locations on the auto and Manuel transmissions


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rollerton
07-20-2017, 06:13 PM
Technically speaking it doesn't matter where the sensor is installed as long as it lines up with the *gap* in the tone ring on the flywheel when the engine is on TDC. If the sensor is in a different spot on the transmission, ideally the maker of the flywheel would've manufactured the flywheel to account for the different location
So, mark where that sensor is located on your spacer there, then put the engine on TDC (for whatever cylinder is used to delineate the timing- it's either #1 or #4?), then hold the spacer with your mark up and see if the sensors location matches up with the *gap* in the tone ring.
It definitely should.

swamper8
07-20-2017, 07:09 PM
I'm really surprised that the stock auto sensor is near the top of the bellhousing!! I agree with Rollerton that as long as the gap on your flywheel-of-choice is correctly clocked on the flywheel it shouldn't be a problem. If you switch to a TTV flywheel or a 2.7T DMFW and you're running a ME7.1.1 flash you should be fine. I"m not sure if you have everything installed yet but a good way to determine what bellhousing spacer you need is to bolt the trans to the engine and shine a flashlight through the CPS hole. The reluctor wheel (and windows) should be in the center of the CPS bore. If it is offset the sensor won't pick up properly. So no matter what anyone advises you, make sure the pickup ring on the flywheel is dead nuts in the middle of the CPS bore. Also use a micrometer (or equivalent) to make sure that the CPS is close (but not touching) the tone ring on the flywheel. I've seen setups with and without a spacer between the CPS and the bellhousing. This sensor can be checked with VCDS during cranking to make sure you're picking up a signal but by that time you already have everything bolted down.

Jeremyboukaia
07-20-2017, 08:06 PM
You guys rock! I will check that once I get the new flywheel from ttv. He got ahold of me and quoted 480$ for just the flywheel and I would use a rs4 clutch with no spacer between the block and tranny. And no spacer between the crank and flywheel. Also emailed audi4parts about the drive shaft spacer. Also I asked my local shop here but he said it would cost lots more then that web site lists. We will see. I hope I can finish this before September. I am itching to road trip this car


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Wide-66
07-21-2017, 06:42 AM
TTV has been known to send out improperly machined flywheels. Ben was a shithead to deal with.

swamper8
07-21-2017, 09:33 AM
A little OEM AUDI PORN (on topic)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-Flywheel-D2-Pre-Facelift-S8-Manual-32V-4-2L-V8-QUATTRO-077105269J-C4-UrS6-/172751945772?fits=Make%3AAudi&hash=item2838d1802c:g:QwcAAOSwImRYgWBL&vxp=mtr

Sure there are other (cheaper) options available but for anyone who likes having OEM parts this is a tasty chunk o' steel.

Jeremyboukaia
07-21-2017, 03:02 PM
A little OEM AUDI PORN (on topic)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-Flywheel-D2-Pre-Facelift-S8-Manual-32V-4-2L-V8-QUATTRO-077105269J-C4-UrS6-/172751945772?fits=Make%3AAudi&hash=item2838d1802c:g:QwcAAOSwImRYgWBL&vxp=mtr

Sure there are other (cheaper) options available but for anyone who likes having OEM parts this is a tasty chunk o' steel.

To bad the price and to bad I have a 40valve 4.2l 8 bolt crank lol


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Jeremyboukaia
07-22-2017, 04:03 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/a65605349367cf25373adf8009368e28.jpg rear end part number.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/7819237144107bd33e61ba81505d15d3.jpg

Tranny part number. Help me find out the gear ratios. Please


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Jeremyboukaia
07-22-2017, 06:25 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170723/4a03dba852496a7c26f64d021c222478.jpg


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rollerton
07-23-2017, 08:52 AM
Tranny part number. Help me find out the gear ratios. Please



It should be listed here:


http://www.elektro.com/~audi/01E/

Or here:

http://www.elektro.com/~audi/01E/ind2.html

Jeremyboukaia
07-23-2017, 10:12 AM
It should be listed here:


http://www.elektro.com/~audi/01E/

Or here:

http://www.elektro.com/~audi/01E/ind2.html

I have to get more numbers off my tranny to find out. But some where I read that only all roads have transmission coolers. And mine has a transmission cooler. Also I found out my rear end is a 4.375. So I guess I will have bad fuel economy but vary quick acceleration lol. Later down the road I plan on getting a different gear box and possibly a tdi 6th gear set from Germany.


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rollerton
07-23-2017, 10:29 AM
Damn. So, you bought a swap kit and it was an Allroad transmission for your A8? That's harsh.

I'll guess 1st gear will be rarely used. Maybe for pulling stumps.

Jeremyboukaia
07-23-2017, 10:39 AM
Damn. So, you bought a swap kit and it was an Allroad transmission for your A8? That's harsh.

I'll guess 1st gear will be rarely used. Maybe for pulling stumps.

Haha right! Well when I bought the kit I didn't know that the final drive was that crazy. I just assumed that I am getting a 6 speed Manuel tranny! I'll be able to do amazing burnouts lol


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swamper8
07-24-2017, 09:42 AM
With my Allroad I turn about 3000RPM at 70MPH. At least it puts the engine up in the RPM range where as soon as you touch the pedal it takes off. No problem passing in 6th gear with either the 2.7T or 4.2L. I could coax 24MPG out of my Allroad with the 2.7T. 20MPG with the V8 but that motor was sick so I don't think it was operating as efficiently as it could. Given your car is approx. the same weight as mine, I would expect 20-23 on the highway depending on driving habits. Around town is pretty low but I'm sure you're used to that with the V8 and slushbox.

pee quu
07-24-2017, 12:56 PM
I got a b5 rs4 flywheel and clutch set up on my s6 4.2 and o1e

Jeremyboukaia
07-24-2017, 01:02 PM
I got a b5 rs4 flywheel and clutch set up on my s6 4.2 and o1e

Is your s6 a 10 bolt crank or a 8 bolt crank ?


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Jeremyboukaia
07-24-2017, 01:03 PM
With my Allroad I turn about 3000RPM at 70MPH. At least it puts the engine up in the RPM range where as soon as you touch the pedal it takes off. No problem passing in 6th gear with either the 2.7T or 4.2L. I could coax 24MPG out of my Allroad with the 2.7T. 20MPG with the V8 but that motor was sick so I don't think it was operating as efficiently as it could. Given your car is approx. the same weight as mine, I would expect 20-23 on the highway depending on driving habits. Around town is pretty low but I'm sure you're used to that with the V8 and slushbox.

Ok I am glad it won't be as harsh as some have told me. And I have only driven this car once down the street. I bought it with the blown tranny!! So I can't wait. Ps this is my first v8 Audi:)!


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swamper8
07-25-2017, 05:13 AM
Well better you picked a belt motor than a chain motor. But honestly they aren't rocket ships. The V8's range is from 300-340HP and of course the cars are tanks. There's enough there to get up to highway speed without being embarrassed but nothing crazy. A manual trans helps a bit. Frankly the best part of my first V8 swap was regaining the NA V8 exhaust note. the 2.7T (any turbo car really) had awful sounding exhaust. I left the stock center resonator in place, cut the rear mufflers off and welded on extensions/tips. A little drone around town, quiet on the highway and I think it sounds fantastic for a (virtually) free mod.

Jeremyboukaia
07-25-2017, 07:11 AM
Well better you picked a belt motor than a chain motor. But honestly they aren't rocket ships. The V8's range is from 300-340HP and of course the cars are tanks. There's enough there to get up to highway speed without being embarrassed but nothing crazy. A manual trans helps a bit. Frankly the best part of my first V8 swap was regaining the NA V8 exhaust note. the 2.7T (any turbo car really) had awful sounding exhaust. I left the stock center resonator in place, cut the rear mufflers off and welded on extensions/tips. A little drone around town, quiet on the highway and I think it sounds fantastic for a (virtually) free mod.

Is your allroad a 4.2l 40v 8 bolt crank?


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swamper8
07-25-2017, 07:46 AM
Yes my BAS chain motor and AWN belt motor are both 40V 8 bolt cranks. I've never done any research but I think the 32V motors were from the 90's. Not sure though.

Jeremyboukaia
07-25-2017, 10:44 AM
Yes my BAS chain motor and AWN belt motor are both 40V 8 bolt cranks. I've never done any research but I think the 32V motors were from the 90's. Not sure though.

So the belt driven motor you have a b5s4 flywheel with a rs4 b7 clutch? With block tranny spacer? Any shim behind the fly wheel?


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swamper8
07-25-2017, 11:25 AM
So the belt driven motor you have a b5s4 flywheel with a rs4 b7 clutch? With block tranny spacer? Any shim behind the fly wheel?


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Here's my setup. I just bolted it down last night. I can't say 100% it will work until I drive it but I bled the clutch and the pedal feels fine:
2004 Allroad
01E 6MT trans
Motor is 4.2L AWN out of a 2001 A6

OEM DMFW (2.7T so the same one is used in manual B5S4's and manual Allroads)
This matched the diameter and tooth count of the auto flexplate that was on my motor.

Clutch is not a B7/RS4 clutch, it is a B5/RS4 clutch. You can only use the B7/RS4 clutch with the hybrid TTV flywheel. I chickened out on that.

I used the 1.5MM shim between the flywheel and crank. I did not seem to have any rubbing of the flywheel on the bellhousing/crank without the shim installed but since others have recommended using the shim I put it in. I didn't want to have to pull it back apart again. I found that the starter seems to disengage better with the shim installed.

I tried no bellhousing spacer, 5.6MM spacer and 11.2MM spacer. The nose of the trans input shaft fit the pilot bearing best with the 11.2MM spacer installed. I also had to clearance the bellhousing spacer quite a bit around one of the two starter bolt holes.

For my setup, I had to use the A6 4.2 drivers-side motor mount bracket and use a Allroad 4.2 passenger-side motor mount bracket with custom 1" spacers. I believe this has something to do with A.) the different pass motor mount configuration (Allroad V6BEL/V8BAS vs. A6AWN) and also 2.) the Allroad has 1" subframe spacers, the A6 does not. I might switch my drivers-side bracket from the 4.2/A6 mount to the 4.2/Allroad mount as my motor is sitting low on the drivers-side about 1/2". It's not as clean as I hoped, I didn't think the mounts would be an issue. Eventually I might buy a S6 and/or S8 pass motor mount bracket and see if one of those works better.

Everything went in great however I've now come to realize that the plenum connections are completely different. It's the same 5(?) connectors and even the same colors but the keying and number of contacts in each is different. So I will need to repin every single connector by utilizing the housings from my old harness. That's a lot of schematics and a lot of head scratching.

Jeremyboukaia
10-16-2017, 10:28 AM
So I hope I’ve got the right set up now for my 4.2l to six speed 01E. Bought the shim from ecs. Bought a b5rs4 clutch with new bolts also bought a findenza flywheel for a 2.7t.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171016/26293c4e5558128ec51d221b3f159de4.jpg top is b5rs4 bottom is used 2.7t.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171016/09f8452abf82d1113f844c683a65e146.jpg old worn out 2.7t DMFW

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171016/2725ace4d27c8e6d206e4d563f2cf20e.pngbought this. But from a different web site. Called findenza they confirmed the part number I needed. This should get installed on sat if it comes in time.


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Nollywood
10-17-2017, 12:04 AM
Aluminium flywheels are not the best choice, if you regularly beat on it, and get it really hot. Different thermal expansion rates between the aluminium and steel insert cause problems.

julex
10-17-2017, 06:04 AM
That's not even the worst of their problems [:(]:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/622879-Fidanza-Flywheel-fails-at-6-6k-RPMs-(tone-right-comes-apart)

Nollywood
10-17-2017, 06:32 AM
That's not even the worst of their problems [:(]:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/622879-Fidanza-Flywheel-fails-at-6-6k-RPMs-(tone-right-comes-apart)

Yes, I remember this. I've had a similar occurrence with a friend's car. Same Fidanza flywheel, imported from the States. In his case, it destroyed the starter motor, took out a structural chunk of the transmission in two places, and chewed up the rear of the engine behind the flywheel, including the rear main seal.

Terrible product, not fit for purpose. This flywheel had covered less than a thousand miles, this was the car's first road trip - en route to Ireland when it failed.

Jeremyboukaia
10-17-2017, 08:13 PM
Great!!! I wish i had info on this before I bought it:( bang head!
Can people show me some good non bank braking alternatives. I will run this. For alittle bit before I get something else.


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julex
10-18-2017, 04:57 AM
Yes, I remember this. I've had a similar occurrence with a friend's car. Same Fidanza flywheel, imported from the States. In his case, it destroyed the starter motor, took out a structural chunk of the transmission in two places, and chewed up the rear of the engine behind the flywheel, including the rear main seal.

Terrible product, not fit for purpose. This flywheel had covered less than a thousand miles, this was the car's first road trip - en route to Ireland when it failed.

I feel that I was very lucky with how mine failed. I vividly remember finishing WOT pull normally, letting off the gas pedal (that was somewhere near 100mph), pressing clutch and engine stalling as the steering wheel became hard to operate. The tone ring sheared all the bolts in one go (after a piece of it got pushed out the vent hole in bell housing and then sheared off) so 80% of tone ring just stopped rotating with the flywheel asthere was nothing pushing it anymore to make a noodle out of it and damage stuff in bell housing. Literally the only damage I had was a small piece of non-structural bell housing getting nicked off.

OK22
12-08-2017, 09:06 AM
I thought the aluminum lightweight flywheel looked like a good option until reading these posts. Glad I didn't get it.

I'm slowly swapping a 2003 A8L engine (AUX) into a Porsche Boxster S. I'm using a Valeo single mass flywheel & clutch kit from ECS Tuning (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-parts/clutch-kit-single-mass-flywheel/52405618~val/). For the installation, I needed the small (1mm?) spacer that was originally between the engine and flexplate.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4599/38201061194_4e57f3f84d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21cGqA7)

My current transmission is a 2001 Boxster 5 speed, G86.01, which (I think) is externally identical to the 01E FWD transmissions. When I tried to install the transmission, the clutch pressure plate scraped on the housing. I just got a 5.5 mm spacer, 01E103551H, which looks like it will work well. I'll update later if there are any problems.

I also have a 32 valve ABZ which I may use in a future project. For that I have a flex plate insert from 034 Motorsports (https://store.034motorsport.com/flywheel-insert-audi-v8-aluminum.html). It looks similar to the aluminum Fidanza. Hopefully it's better engineered. Does anyone have experience with the 034 insert?
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/27139791429_6b2e5d6470_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hmfwsr)

rollerton
12-08-2017, 01:00 PM
I figured I'd add to this now that I've finished my swap and can review the TTV hyrbid setup.
All I have to say is it is absolutely awesome. It is easier to drive than my Mk4 GTI w/ dual mass flywheel. It is just amazing. It holds 340hp S6 power easily. It's about 30% lighter than the B5 rs4 clutch, and any teenage girl could drive it.
There is ZERO chatter, no gear noise, no nothing. It's fucking perfect.
So, the TTV flywheel can be got from SillyRabbitMotorsports for $450
http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/ttv-flywheel

The clutch is still available from Rockauto for $135 :
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/audi,2008,rs4,4.2l+v8,3003279,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993


I'm telling you...I seriously cannot even say how great it is.

https://i.imgur.com/Taglzld.jpg

ruiz
12-12-2017, 08:45 AM
Just to piggyback what rollerton said, the TTV flywheel is amazing with absolutely no issues. I've had it on my S6 for over 20k miles with the RS4 kit and I couldn't be happier. I'm about to get another one for my B5! The thing looks sexy as hell too, really a work of machinery art!

FCPEuro has the same LuK clutch kit for just a bit more and it'll come with a lifetime warranty!

Jeremyboukaia
06-20-2018, 05:29 PM
Ok so the car is running:) BUT!!! When I press the clutch pedal I don’t have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. Just bought the usp slave and flex lines hopefully my space is wrong or bad. Do you thing that my master cylinder from a sabb doesn’t provide enough volume?!


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moclakens
06-20-2018, 07:10 PM
Ok so the car is running:) BUT!!! When I press the clutch pedal I don’t have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. Just bought the usp slave and flex lines hopefully my space is wrong or bad. Do you thing that my master cylinder from a sabb doesn’t provide enough volume?!


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That using the correct master cylinder is very important, it’s hard to know without taking it apart and measuring the bore and stroke to know for sure. But I would start with a re-bleed, that could also be a symptom of air in the system.

Jeremyboukaia
07-20-2018, 11:18 AM
Ok:) so it’s fixed I did what everyone was thinking and just rebuild the clutch pedal with the oem master
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/1370c76a50afe238754bc2f4d7872b02.jpg

Car runs and drive amazing thank you all for all your help my combo is.

Belt timing 4.2l engine.thin shim between crank and flywheel. Findenza flywheel b5 rs4 clutch. Aluminum spacer between block and tranny where the tranny bolts up. Had to modify it just alittle. Oem master metal slave -3 steel beaded clutch line. Works like a champ.


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rollerton
07-20-2018, 03:59 PM
What the hell is that ^ ?

Riktnr08
07-21-2018, 05:44 AM
Hi! I have read this thread but im still a bit confused what i should buy for my car. I have a Audi S6 -00 AQJ Engine euro. And im about too pick up a 2.5 TDI -00 euro, donor car next week. What flywheel , disc, and plate should i buy do you guys Think?

Nollywood
07-21-2018, 09:28 AM
What the hell is that ^ ?

I was just going to ask the same.

Some kind of kit car, or a Saab? Doesn’t look like any VAG model I know of.

maxiice
01-04-2024, 12:41 PM
Technically speaking it doesn't matter where the sensor is installed as long as it lines up with the *gap* in the tone ring on the flywheel when the engine is on TDC. If the sensor is in a different spot on the transmission, ideally the maker of the flywheel would've manufactured the flywheel to account for the different location
So, mark where that sensor is located on your spacer there, then put the engine on TDC (for whatever cylinder is used to delineate the timing- it's either #1 or #4?), then hold the spacer with your mark up and see if the sensors location matches up with the *gap* in the tone ring.
It definitely should.

But the gap i quite big? should the senter of the sensor be in the middle of the gap? or on the start og the first tooth after the gap? or what :)