questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[Tahoe3.0]

I broke a clip taking off my fog grills, will regular a4 fog grills fit a usp bumper?

[Matt Devo]

I broke a clip taking off my fog grills, will regular a4 fog grills fit a usp bumper?

no, completely different size/shape

[G.AUDI]

i think these are the ones i have to order, 4B0601170A7ZJ.

i'm gonna order a set when i finish my move to TX and unpack all of my shit.Yup. That's the one
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/ea3da3cf769471c752cf54d0be9bef76.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/9848f3ef1de64ca649da605adba23da6.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[i8snitches]

Ok looking for a replacement breather filter for 2014 A6 3.0T.

Just need the part number, tried local AutoZone but wasn't much help.

[SJorge3442]

Ok looking for a replacement breather filter for 2014 A6 3.0T.

Just need the part number, tried local AutoZone but wasn't much help.

Not going to get much help here in the b6 platform forum where our 3.0's only come naturally aspirated.

Also, avoid Autozone for ANYTHING engine related with your Audi, unless you're into having a bad time and like buying parts twice.

[Jakal]

I recently discovered that my exhaust manifold/header had 3 gaskets between it and the engine. I have some gaskets from Audi that I bought off of ECS and there’s only two in the package. So that begs the question: how many gaskets do these cars come with?


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[Matt Devo]

I recently discovered that my exhaust manifold/header had 3 gaskets between it and the engine. I have some gaskets from Audi that I bought off of ECS and there’s only two in the package. So that begs the question: how many gaskets do these cars come with?

sounds like a multi-layer gasket that simply separated, as there's only a single gasket used.

[G.AUDI]

Bought these a few years ago but have since gone in another direction. I know performance wise they will be fine but was looking into selling them and I was coming at it from appearance wise.
What is that on the rotors and is there any way to clean them without marking or scratching the metal? These are the B5 S4 setup from Matt's rotors btw. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180323/bd0a503c55edb6ea4386ef2bab4863aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180323/c7cceae9c92bd339fd8883caacc6211d.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[fR3ZNO]

Looks like some surface corrosion of whatever they were plated in. I would try using a scotch brite pad on them and see if it comes off.

[G.AUDI]

Looks like some surface corrosion of whatever they were plated in. I would try using a scotch brite pad on them and see if it comes off.Thanks.... I wasn't sure exactly what kind of corrosion since it didn't really look like rust to me. Some parts had what looked like a chalky build up.

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[jonan]

Thanks.... I wasn't sure exactly what kind of corrosion since it didn't really look like rust to me. Some parts had what looked like a chalky build up.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Scotch brite, some elbow grease, then a quick spay and wipe down with brake clean should work.

[Spike00513]

I recently saw an Audi apple connect kit on clearance sale I think,
and it looked like a re-packaged DICE connector.

Anyone know how to update these? Such as a good product to buy cheaply?
I'll google it.

Previous owner installed one in my car, but the cable only connects to iPhone 4S (old)
and not newer like iPhone 6S, which is a different plug style.
Also, the DICE plug in the car seems shoddy/unreliable for some reason, disconnecting itself. The locking tabs (if it even has any) don't seem to work either.

https://qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-54ea667b3b6eec735d69909383e5e708


Bought these a few years ago but have since gone in another direction. I know performance wise they will be fine but was looking into selling them and I was coming at it from appearance wise.
What is that on the rotors and is there any way to clean them without marking or scratching the metal? These are the B5 S4 setup from Matt's rotors btw.

I wonder what size dimensions B5 S4 rotors are. I'll have to look it up.
Rotors probably have a min. and max. thickness spec, and supposedly this is just for liability reasons, to prevent the caliper piston from having enough room to pop out if the pads are worn too.
Such as if a car owner keeps replacing pads but never the rotor, which eventually loses material.
But probably being made of iron, maybe the rotor can still handle the use.
Because after all, it's it other parts that people get trouble with when tracking? Such as needing higher temp brake fluid, pads that don't fade, calipers that handle heat, adequate cooling, etc.
Unless the rotor cracks or warps, that last part supposedly being a myth and just what people wrongly call a noticeable DTV (disc thickness variation) from pad deposits.
But that part is a whole other subject (not to mention one I'm not familiar with), so my point isn't to talk about it.

IDK if any chemicals would help,
and I'm not sure if simply using it with a pad will eventually wipe it clean, not to mention those groove designs and what-not possibly abrading the pad like a cheese-grater to keep it fresh?
Or does pad material deposit a transfer layer onto the metal, effectively making it feel like pad-to-pad braking?
Either way, the pedal will still technically probably work.


Looks like some surface corrosion of whatever they were plated in. I would try using a scotch brite pad on them and see if it comes off.

Well, regarding surface corrosion, I hear that when rotors are stored in a warehouse before selling, they're left coated with a thin film of oil to protect them.
That then has to be wiped off prior to install with brake cleaner spray.


Scotch brite, some elbow grease, then a quick spay and wipe down with brake clean should work.

Hopefully
Thanks.... I wasn't sure exactly what kind of corrosion since it didn't really look like rust to me. Some parts had what looked like a chalky build up.

I can't really tell if it ate into the metal.

[hightime80]

How does one remove the metal rebar from the front bumper cover?

[eljay]

How can I test window functions with the door removed from the car?
I tried applying 12v to the pin 1 and ground to pin 11 of the T20 door connector, but the switches didn't do anything.
Is there something else that needs power or ground for the window to work?
I just want to test the window going up and down.

Thanks.

[Tahoe3.0]

I recently saw an Audi apple connect kit on clearance sale I think,
and it looked like a re-packaged DICE connector.

Anyone know how to update these? Such as a good product to buy cheaply?
I'll google it.

Previous owner installed one in my car, but the cable only connects to iPhone 4S (old)
and not newer like iPhone 6S, which is a different plug style.

this will fix it (https://www.tmart.com/16-5cm-8-Pin-Lightning-to-30-Pin-Adapter-Cable-for-iPhone-6-6-Plus-5-5S-5C-iPad-Mini-Air-iTouch-5-White_p336442.html?cc=USD&fixed_price=hk_intl&gclid=CjwKCAjw7tfVBRB0EiwAiSYGM0sdKtbSNccrFx74XHQW 5xSeQ7Nq2rFgWqaAS7lQRaPaKdSdvj6zgxoCDO0QAvD_BwE)

[hightime80]

Anyone?

[hightime80]

Anyone?
Sorry was trying to quote my question 3 posts up. Does anyone know how to get the metal rebar out of the bumper cover? Preferably intact.

[jonan]

Yup. That's the one
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/ea3da3cf769471c752cf54d0be9bef76.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/9848f3ef1de64ca649da605adba23da6.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

dope! thanks for confirming!

[jonan]

Thanks.

I'm hoping mine won't break, because I already managed to break it loose out of curiosity not long ago.
And IDK why it's leaking a bit like that.

Maybe the O-ring has worn out over these many years and miles.

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/83887_x800.jpg

I'm not sure if the PN of the O-ring, if it even exists to sell separately. Or the dimensions of it, to install a random replacement from a hardware store.

IDK if people recommend anything additional as well, for thread installation,
such as a coating of anti-sieze or however many wraps around of Teflon tape, to help seal and prevent future seizing, while still not making it too tight (would it get stuck?)



1.8T coolant hardpipe I think.
With either a plastic bleeder screw up top, or metal, depending on model year maybe.

But it's just a generic pic I grabbed from Google images, to illustrate what's going on with mine.
Although mine is much less worse. It's just a few pink drops. But enough to cause concern.

I figure preventative maintenance = a $6 part now ahead of time,
before it breaks leaving the car stranded and emergency helicoptering in the same exact parts from a dealership at $100/ea
during business hours, leaving the car parked overnight

seriously fuk this screw, i replaced my hardpipe less than a year ago and the screw broke this morning when i had to bleed the system...had to bleed from the heater core hose...

[Spike00513]

seriously fuk this screw, i replaced my hardpipe less than a year ago and the screw broke this morning when i had to bleed the system...had to bleed from the heater core hose...

Well then. Guess I don't know how to bleed coolant. Wasn't sure if a fancy $100 tool kit is needed.
I think for my 3.0L I just added coolant (cold engine) and let it idle, while watching the reservoir level drop so I could add more. I heard that was okay to do.
And then watched it in the continuing days after, if it continued to drop. Assuming coolant would go in, and air would automatically push itself out, up into the reservoir.

Apparently 'venting cap' (on the reservoir) just means a vent slowly releases pressure when you unscrew it, to avoid a hot blast of coolant like in old cars with a radiator cap.
I hear air tends to rise. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the coolant bleed screw being up high.

I thought people just pull the heater core hoses (behind firewall) backed off a bit to a little dot marking, while air comes out. And then slide the hose back on and install the clamp, when coolant finally spurts out.

Not too well-versed in the subject, honestly.


this will fix it (https://www.tmart.com/16-5cm-8-Pin-Lightning-to-30-Pin-Adapter-Cable-for-iPhone-6-6-Plus-5-5S-5C-iPad-Mini-Air-iTouch-5-White_p336442.html?cc=USD&fixed_price=hk_intl&gclid=CjwKCAjw7tfVBRB0EiwAiSYGM0sdKtbSNccrFx74XHQW 5xSeQ7Nq2rFgWqaAS7lQRaPaKdSdvj6zgxoCDO0QAvD_BwE)

Thank you. Won't hurt to try for only $3. Hopefully the connection locks in solid and stays put. It'll add some nice length too; the current cable is a bit short.

The current cable (iPhone 4S DICE unit) doesn't seem to have charging functionality either. I'm gonna have to figure that one out. Only music playing ability.
Although I hear it's healthier for battery longevity to drain and recharge many times. Rather than keeping something constantly plugged in at full 100% charge.

Just checked out eBay to see if they're cheaper.
Looks like there's an option of cable adapter version, or square one.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YcAAAOSwu1VW8QZo/s-l500.jpg

IDK why there's an audio jack version as well.
Guess I'll gamble and hope whatever I get works.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41mpnRHzn3L.jpg

Maybe the stubby square one would get blocked by the phone case.

[jonan]

yea, the coolant screw is so much easier than pulling the heater core hose behind the firewall...

my car originally came with the hardpipe with the metal screw, but the pipe actually developed cracks and still leaked even though i put a new metal screw in it...

when i ordered a replacement pipe, the new one came with the plastic screw, which after less than a year broke the first time i tried to open it to bleed coolant...stupid fucking cost savings measure IMO...

i had to rip the battery cover off and bleed from the heater core pipe...just leave the cap on and wait for that tiny hole to start pissing coolant...if you try to bleed without the coolant reservoir cap on, it will start vomiting up tons of coolant when the system builds pressure...

[hightime80]

No one knows how to take the rebar off the bumper cover?

[fR3ZNO]

No one knows how to take the rebar off the bumper cover?

There’s screws that hold it on.

[Gone in 7.6]

Does a 2003 have can-bus connection on the passenger side footwell? I checked and see where it is currently connected.. I have no other spot to connect to they all appear blank

[5ktq]

There's 3 CAN busses, did you have a specific one in mind?

All three are at the cluster, for what it's worth.

[Gone in 7.6]

There's 3 CAN busses, did you have a specific one in mind?

All three are at the cluster, for what it's worth.

Yes I am looking to setup the SAT radio.. I followed the directions for 2004 on but the passenger footwell has the one connection, all other spots are empty

[fR3ZNO]

Anyone have experience with OEM vs. aftermarket cam chains?

When doing my friend's timing belt on his new B6, I noticed the valve cover had JB weld on it and was leaking oil. I found that the cam chain wore grooves through the valve cover [o_o]

The chain looks good as far as I can tell, but the tensioner obviously needs to be replaced. I stupidly put a spare valve cover on that I had laying around to stop the leak, and now the slap is very loud.

So I'm not sure if I should have him buy a Genuine Audi chain for $150 or an aftermarket for roughly $30; or just call it good and put a tensioner in.

[old guy]

I compared an aftermarket chain to my OEM one with over 200k miles and the difference in length, sag and link pin diameters was barely measurable. I reused the OEM one.

[fR3ZNO]

I compared an aftermarket chain to my OEM one with over 200k miles and the difference in length, sag and link pin diameters was barely measurable. I reused the OEM one.

Thanks for the input, old guy.

[Spike00513]

Wondering if I should try finding a Passat AWM cylinder head to prepare to swap in during an upcoming planned timing belt job, or if it's still too early for a cylinder head (~160k mi) and can wait.
Still needs a timing belt kit though, and other stuff.

In which case, was wondering if the donor car details matter, such as automatic vs. manual transmission Passat. (automatic probably more common)
Looks like it's supposed to be '01-'05 Passat, 1.8T

to swap AMB out (supposedly prone to cracking) for AWM (supposedly more reliable and fits)

Haven't found any locally yet

https://automanager.blob.core.windows.net/wmphotos/016656/efd6b6e5152e8b46b51ba08ac7ea323f/cd4b75e634_640.jpg

[Jakal]

Got my ko3 back from being rebuilt and I can’t get the coolant line mounting thread to line up. In this picture I have the banjo bolt in, just unable to get this other bolt in. Nothing should have been changed. Anyone have any insight? 59610

[old guy]

Your turbo wasn't clocked correctly when it was put back together.

[IndoReef]

Yea looks as if the person who rebuilt it skipped a step, show them this picture and the actual turbo

[Gosser]

I did a valve cover gasket and forgot to put the plastic caps that cover the intake cam back on... is my bottom end going to fall out now?

[kjmiles]

Silly question. Just replaced the airflow duct positioning flap servo motor (lite blue V71 (G113) –8E1 820 511 E/F/M). When should the flap be down/up? Right now, when the heat is on mine is closed and when the AC is on it's open. Just want to make sure before I reinstall the glove box.

[Luxus Panzer]

I did a valve cover gasket and forgot to put the plastic caps that cover the intake cam back on... is my bottom end going to fall out now?

ooh, that sucks :(

[Jakal]

Your turbo wasn't clocked correctly when it was put back together.
Is this something I should be concerned about? I sent an inquiry with pictures to them.

[old guy]

Is this something I should be concerned about? I sent an inquiry with pictures to them.

You can fix it yourself. Loosen the bolts that are clamping the hot/cold side of the turbo to the center section of the turbo. Rotate the center section while keeping the hot/cold side in the same relationship to each other (like a Rubik's cube). Rotate it to where the holes align and tighten everything back up.

Done!

[Spike00513]

Wow. This looks complicated even with the engine out for accessibility.

When dealing with all this hosey shit, is there a particular order that new parts must be installed?
Such as starting closest to the engine.
Because obviously if you've laid down a web of hoses without clamps, you might not be able to reach deep into the first one you installed.
Which may even require a heat-gun to soften things if it's plastic.

Or is there a special tool?
Or do you just use screw-type aftermarket hose clamps tightened with a hex extension or flathead screwdriver?
Won't this reduce their lifespan by biting into the hose, or is it worth it this time?

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/I6IAAOSwa0VaB2EL/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jrEAAOSweExaB2Ep/s-l1600.jpg

I can't tell if OEM ear-type clamps (one-time-use or re-usable?) are worth it,
or to look into something flared out, maybe GEMI or NORMA
or something else

https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/doc/N/4362560/0/1/P/gemi-hose-clamp-16-27-mm-range-9-mm-width-screw-type-hc-16-27-9.jpg

There's an octopus on the engine

https://thumbs-prod.si-cdn.com/xdWc7VsNqkwMJzwIAn0_RB8W0aQ=/800x600/filters:no_upscale()/https://public-media.smithsonianmag.com/filer/20130829084021octopus.jpg

[Chemmie]

^I use the closed-rack type worm drive clamps, sometimes called “Euro” clamps or Oetiker hose clamps, metric, 5 or 8 mm width depending on the hose. That’s what you’ve shown in your part photo. The open-rack clamps are rarely the correct width, and will cut into the hose. I doubt it affects hose life, but it looks amature. For every spot I can get the crimp tool into, I just replace clamps w/the single-ear OEM style crimp bands.

[Tahoe3.0]

Play in drivetrain: When re-applying throttle after coasting there is what can best be described as a "thunk" that doesn't make noise, if that makes sense. I can feel the power re-engage after a slight delay, as if there is some play in the system. Could this be caused by bad motor or transmission mounts? I feel it in the pedal, sort of like a roller coaster car catching on a drive chain.

LOC install: I am going to be splicing two low output converters into my bose stereo. The head unit is one of the Chinese ones and the harness I have has two sets of speaker wire going into female RCAs which then connect to male RCAs before being fed to the car's harness. Do I snip the female RCAs off and feed the LOCs in there or are they supposed to be installed on the actual car's harness? I am very inexperienced when it comes to wiring/stereo stuff.

[Gosser]

Play in drive drain is most likely motor mounts. Roll under the car, see if you can notice some purple fluid coming from them, if so, then they are shot. Check the front snub mount, if its never been changed, its probably shreded. Those seem to exhibit the most wear. The trans mount and rear diff mount take less abuse, but also might contribute to drive train slop. Start up front and work your way back.

I cant comment on the output controllers. Are you trying to acquire a frequency source for an amp signal? I've tapped into speaker outputs from the original car harness for an amp signal, this was years ago, not sure what all the kids are doing these days.

[Tahoe3.0]

Play in drive drain is most likely motor mounts. Roll under the car, see if you can notice some purple fluid coming from them, if so, then they are shot. Check the front snub mount, if its never been changed, its probably shreded. Those seem to exhibit the most wear. The trans mount and rear diff mount take less abuse, but also might contribute to drive train slop. Start up front and work your way back.

I cant comment on the output controllers. Are you trying to acquire a frequency source for an amp signal? I've tapped into speaker outputs from the original car harness for an amp signal, this was years ago, not sure what all the kids are doing these days.

Thanks for the advice, I will have to wait until it is a bit more dry here in order to crawl under and take a look. Sadly my workshop is now a dirt driveway.

re: the LOCs, I am attempting to lower the aftermarket head unit's signal from 4ohms to 2 so that it plays nice with my bose system. I am almost certain what I described will be the correct installation but I wanted to maybe get some confirmation from someone who has installed them before. Honestly this is probably my most legitimately "too dumb to ask" questions to date haha.

[my1stturbo]

How is the headlight projector bracket secured to the housing? Bought a headlight for Retrofitting the kit from retrofitsource. Kit went in pretty smoothly, but noticed the plastic the projector screwed too was a little loose and moving. Just put the lights in and while everything bworks, that side is bouncing up and down and you can see the plastic moving from the side. Is that correctable or am I looking at a new housing?

[Chemmie]

Thanks for the advice, I will have to wait until it is a bit more dry here in order to crawl under and take a look. Sadly my workshop is now a dirt driveway.

FWIW I replaced my engine mounts and snub mount recently and my car has the slight sensation of slack being taken up in the drivetrain. FWD, transmission is in tip-top shape, axles are tight. It's not severe but it's not perfectly smooth power transmission.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Hey guys, first post, so apologies if I'm not so familiar with how things work around here. I have a 2003 a4 quattro 5 speed.
Long story short I had the water in ECU box problem because of a hole in the cover, and it drowned the 219 relay causing the fan to act erratically and drain the battery. I took the relay block out, cleaned the housing best I could, and drilled small holes in the bottom to avoid the problem happening again (I've got tape covering the hole in the cover for the time being but I will end up getting a new cover soon enough). In any case, I cleaned it up best I could with paper towels and MAF cleaner and got the majority of the corrosion off. Did the same for the inside of the relay, and it didnt look too bad afterwards.
After temporarily putting everything back together the car cranked over and since as far as I know that relay also powers the ECU and fuel pump, I assumed everything was back to normal.

Getting to the point, one thing I noticed afterwards though is the e-brake light flashing on the dash. It did this before when the battery was too low of a voltage to start the car, but now it was doing it even after the car had started. Other than that everything was normal as it idled just as it always had and the radiator fans came on on the count of the ECT sensor being bad and reading high.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[old guy]

Welcome to AZ!

check back in your AW thread. I think I answered your questions there. I believe you will find that AZ moves quite a bit faster than AW. Lots of smart guys on here that can help you.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Yep, thats why I decided to pop over here real quick. On the point of checking the brake fluid levels, does the screen mesh come off? because its hard to see the fluid level with that in place.

[Gosser]

Yep, thats why I decided to pop over here real quick. On the point of checking the brake fluid levels, does the screen mesh come off? because its hard to see the fluid level with that in place.

It does come out, but its not graceful. You need to grab it with two sets of plyers on either side between the filler neck and the mesh basket, and pull it straight up pretty hard. I havent been able to take one out without creasing the edges of the basket edges. But it always goes back in.

[Natejo91]

Soooo are the bushings on the stock end links of the front sway bar replaceable? I have a set of endlink bushings but have no idea on how to get the old ones out...


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[jonan]

finally got a vcds and scanned the car...have two codes that popped up...

16487 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0103 - 001 - Signal too High - Intermittent

17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2
P1114 - 008 - Internal Resistance too High - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

i'm running the APR k04 tune with testpipe, TT injectors, and had an AWE FMIC installed...no CELs and i just drove from CT to TX, car runs great and pulls nice, boosts holds 20 to 21PSI at WOT...

that being said, i thought the APR k04 testpipe file deletes the readiness check for the O2 sensor? also, no CELs and car runs great despite MAF code 16487...

question is, can i just ignore those two fault codes since i'm running the APR k04 testpipe file or do i need to replace the MAF and O2 sensor?

[Natejo91]

When putting hardware on for a K04 or bigger turbo, can you reuse the sensor from the OEM MAF housing? As in do you only need the 3” housing or do you need the sensor for the 3” housing too? Is the TT 225 housing the only one that works or does B6/B7 S4 also work?
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[fR3ZNO]

When putting hardware on for a K04 or bigger turbo, can you reuse the sensor from the OEM MAF housing? As in do you only need the 3” housing or do you need the sensor for the 3” housing too? Is the TT 225 housing the only one that works or does B6/B7 S4 also work?
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

You reuse the sensor.

[Natejo91]

You reuse the sensor.

Thank you!

Do you know which housings facilitate the swapping of the sensor? (VR6, TT 225, S4 etc) or is the sensor common to all housings?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Jakal]

Do I need to put some oil around the gasket and or plates while reinstalling the turbo oil feed line?

[Chemmie]

Soooo are the bushings on the stock end links of the front sway bar replaceable? I have a set of endlink bushings but have no idea on how to get the old ones out.

Don’t think so. They appear molded into the aluminium housings and not readily removed. But then how/why would you be able to purchase them separately?

Remove one and try it- worst case you’ll have to buy new end links anyways. You can drive the car indefinitely with no ill-effects w/o the sway bar connected or even installed. Makes it ride better IMO.

[Spike00513]

Soooo are the bushings on the stock end links of the front sway bar replaceable? I have a set of endlink bushings but have no idea on how to get the old ones out...

It can probably be pushed out with a big flathead screwdriver over a solid surface like a concrete floor, being careful to not slip the screwdriver and cut your hand.

http://i50.tinypic.com/kehurn.jpg

If deciding to take the extra step of cleaning the aluminum end-link, one possible way might be to use Castrol Super-Clean and gloves; IDK if it matters latex or nitrile.
But the stuff smells bad and is probably acidic/burning/corrosive if you get any on your skin, and says to not let it dry.
A degreaser that's supposed to be tough on car dirt, and readily available at places like Wal-Mart and auto parts stores.

I've wondered if it effects the environment, such as draining in a sink.
I also hear of Simple Green; IDK if people dilute it or not. Haven't tried it.

I don't think to polish it either, whether on a bench wheel or hand-held, because what if this creates airborne dust.
IDK if making it shiny will make it more dirt-resistant in the future, and having some dirt on it won't lose 10 horsepower.

Aftermarket ones probably come with some sort of metal treatment or powder-coat.

[Lauri0112]

What sensor ( wire ) is that? Located on the passanger side. On the driver side, there was the wire for parking sensors, but this one? Something to do with the airbags?
https://www.upload.ee/image/8315383/20180411_145417.jpg

[5ktq]

typically all the airbag stuff is yellow, but I have no idea what it is.

[Lauri0112]

It´s connected to the crash bar, thats why I thought it has something to do with the airbag.

[Gosser]

Only the connector will be yellow if its airbag related. Crash sensor would be my guess.

[Gosser]

Has anyone replace the rear diff carrier bushings? Or is this suicide, and the inserts are the best alternative? I'll have the subframe out anyways, and thought it would be an opportunity to just replace with OEM for 40 dollars. Is it just a pound out and pound in affair if keeping to OEM?

[Tahoe3.0]

I have tried searching but couldn't find anything B6 specific.

Can we use the A8 bose amp as an OEM+ upgrade like the B5 guys can?


also a follow up for anyone that is interested:


LOC install: I am going to be splicing two low output converters into my bose stereo. The head unit is one of the Chinese ones and the harness I have has two sets of speaker wire going into female RCAs which then connect to male RCAs before being fed to the car's harness. Do I snip the female RCAs off and feed the LOCs in there or are they supposed to be installed on the actual car's harness? I am very inexperienced when it comes to wiring/stereo stuff.

the answer to my quoted question is a hard "no". The female leads are not used and the LOCs wire right in to the actual speaker wires (green/purple/gray/white) that, in the Chinese factory install configuration, are not used. The way that they instruct you to wire these things is run the RCA outs (female) to the male RCA counterparts and then out through the car's harness, which is not going to work well. The correct way with the LOCs deletes the female RCA connection and uses the speaker wire. I am happy with it now, it sounds great and there is no hum or grounding issues. We'll see how much I regret it in a couple of months.

[audi900900]

"questions you thought were too dumb to ask"- how the heck do you guys know so much about fixing audis? I look at some of these posts and feel lost and hate it. Outside of swapping a radio,taillight bulbs, basic stuff I'm amazed at some of the projects and troubleshooting on here and I really wish I had that skill or could learn from someone, heck I'd prob pay someone to teach me. I'm an expert in computers but this is a skill I really would want to pick up especially because I love audis so much. It stops me from picking up cars I see for cheap to fix up etc because I can't do it. Plus I hate having to go to the stealership and paying tons of $ and not really knowing if half the sh*t they say is true...I thought about getting a bentley manual and just trying some stuff out but I would prob still be lost and would turn my audi into a tricycle :-)

[DarkoNova]

Experience, mainly.

For me, ever since I was little my dad would be working on the family cars and I'd be helping. And then I went to school to be a mechanic and worked at Firestone for a little while.

I'm pretty good with vehicles but nowhere near as knowledgeable on Audi's as a lot of the other guys here, but that's because they've probably been working on Audi's for a while.

Just don't be scared when something seems daunting.

I did my own timing belt on my 3.0, which would have been at least a $1500 job at a shop. Just spent $100 on the special tools and started taking the car apart, lol.

In a few weeks I'll be doing a clutch/flywheel because that's another $1500+ job and I don't want to pay that much.

Even something big like an engine swap, while it seems daunting, is actually pretty easy if you just take your time and plan it out.

And if you have questions, that's what this place is for.

[audi900900]

Experience, mainly.

For me, ever since I was little my dad would be working on the family cars and I'd be helping. And then I went to school to be a mechanic and worked at Firestone for a little while.

I'm pretty good with vehicles but nowhere near as knowledgeable on Audi's as a lot of the other guys here, but that's because they've probably been working on Audi's for a while.

Just don't be scared when something seems daunting.

I did my own timing belt on my 3.0, which would have been at least a $1500 job at a shop. Just spent $100 on the special tools and started taking the car apart, lol.

In a few weeks I'll be doing a clutch/flywheel because that's another $1500+ job and I don't want to pay that much.

Even something big like an engine swap, while it seems daunting, is actually pretty easy if you just take your time and plan it out.

And if you have questions, that's what this place is for.

thanks for the advice. I admire that, would love to be able to just go buy some parts and fix it myself and on top of that save all that money. I'll prob do that and experiment, the good thing is, it is not my daily driver so it can sit while I figure things out... yeah my Dad is really good with cars but the older ones and mostly american, once the new ones with all the electronics came out he stopped playing with them. I remember when I was a kid he would have car parts on our kitchen table fixing things for our old pontiac grand prix and would pretty much fix everything himself, in his teens he was swapping engines/trans learning from his Uncle. when i was growing up my Dad wanted me to concentrate on baseball which I liked but unfortunately never got the 100 mil contract lol

[Spike00513]

Has anyone replace the rear diff carrier bushings? Or is this suicide, and the inserts are the best alternative? I'll have the subframe out anyways, and thought it would be an opportunity to just replace with OEM for 40 dollars. Is it just a pound out and pound in affair if keeping to OEM?

There are multiple options for the rear diff mount. The RS4 part might be a different-looking bushing.
Such as OEM replacement, filling the voids with a material, or aftermarket. Such as different versions of Apikol, Powerflex, etc.
They differ in price, and IDK much about how to compare them quality-wise.

And as you know, there's also the two small rear carrier bushings deep within the subframe holes. Hence why it appears to require lowering of the subframe.
Supposedly B6 rear suspension bushing parts can last 200-300k miles or more.
Versus the front control arms which have a reputation for tearing upper inner bushings as early as 90k miles on every car.
That's why FCP has a control arm kit, as well as other companies.
That's why everyone knows about it.

But not everyone has worked on rear suspension.

The rear subframe bushings are fluid-filled and also have some sort of spacers, somewhat cone-shaped.
Probably to keep it attached to the car even during bushing failure, for safety and liability.
Front subframe bushings vary in stiffness; sport vs. non-sport.
Rear is probably the same for all.

Also, it's not a performance BMW M5 with a lighter aluminum subframe.
The thing is heavy steel probably.
So why drop it down? Also, you've got things attached to it.
If you kink the propshaft at a high angle and rotate it, that could tear one of it's CV-joint boots.

AND, the rear suspension attaches to the subframe. The lower control arms. Which get pushed down by springs pressed up against the car body.
So not only do you have the high weight of the subframe and gravity pulling it down, but springs pushing it. And springs are high pressure.

So you'd probably need to compress them first, or support the subframe with jacks then slowly lower it.
And since install is reverse of assembly, that'd also make it a challenge to line up straight, to avoid stripping threads in the car body.
Unless you're doing this on a lift at a shop with tall jack stands used to push it up, helping hands, pry bars, etc.

IDK if they can or should be filled, but there's two kinds of inserts. I also still wonder the pros/cons of each. ECS has poly ones. 034 = aluminum CNC'd.

Why will you have the subframe out anyways?

IDK if the carrier bushings are solid rubber or fluid-filled.
But when I tried the "just burn them out!" method by sitting and holding my MAP gas torch there, nothing happened. It only made bad-smelling smoke.
So I used a hole-saw drill bit kit from Harbor Freight, to cut it out via a large circle through the rubber like a saw. On a corded drill I have.
Then I used a hacksaw to cut a groove in the outer casing metal of the bushing so that it could cave in/collapse inward more easily, and used a chisel type thing to hammer it in folding on itself, to pop out. Manual labor.
I don't have experience with cutting torches.

Also when cutting some bushings, the heat of the saw spinning can make the rubber fling everywhere hot and melted, such as onto your shins. Or the walls. As well as the fluid.

$40 may still be a lot.
And IDK how much stress they're under. If they're just there to isolate the drivetrain from the car a little.
Because the rear diff can be held by hand.
Whereas say motor mounts, which wear and get replaced, hold up a bigger heavier engine.
$40 here, $40 there, it adds up.

IDK if inserts are an alternative, or an upgrade. They certainly seem marketed as such at least, especially for enthusiast owners who can't exactly pop the subframe off in an hour just to mess with it.
Then suspension alignment, etc...

[vvenom800tt]

Has anyone replace the rear diff carrier bushings? Or is this suicide, and the inserts are the best alternative? I'll have the subframe out anyways, and thought it would be an opportunity to just replace with OEM for 40 dollars. Is it just a pound out and pound in affair if keeping to OEM?
I have a powerflex black bushinf in my differential bushing and i also have the ECS carrier inserts.

Everything seems very tight back there.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Gosser]

Thanks for the replies Spike and vvenom. I tried looking for the power flex, but cant find anything for the B6 chassis, where did you source yours? I'm surprised Meyle or someone else hasnt made a simply stock replacement. I mean the OEMs were on sale for 13 bucks each, and I grabbed some of those, but maybe its like you said, they are good for 200+miles and such a difficult place to re/re, while the forward mount takes all the abuse. The B5s are easy, they are mounted in the carrier and not the subframe like your saying spike.

I have the subframe out because I am doing a FWD to AWD swap, and trying to address as much as I can while I have it out and accessible. Diff is going to get all new seals, sway bar bushings and was looking into the diff bushings which spawned my question.

[jonan]

"questions you thought were too dumb to ask"- how the heck do you guys know so much about fixing audis? I look at some of these posts and feel lost and hate it. Outside of swapping a radio,taillight bulbs, basic stuff I'm amazed at some of the projects and troubleshooting on here and I really wish I had that skill or could learn from someone, heck I'd prob pay someone to teach me. I'm an expert in computers but this is a skill I really would want to pick up especially because I love audis so much. It stops me from picking up cars I see for cheap to fix up etc because I can't do it. Plus I hate having to go to the stealership and paying tons of $ and not really knowing if half the sh*t they say is true...I thought about getting a bentley manual and just trying some stuff out but I would prob still be lost and would turn my audi into a tricycle :-)

there was a point in my life before i joined this forum that i couldn't even change my oil...just keep turning wrenches and you'll keep learning as you go!

[Spike00513]

I have 3.0 coils in a 1.8T. Is this bad?
(red Revision-M 3.0L free recall coils, instead of latest 1.8T Revision D black ones)
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/yXRVbifIaRE/maxresdefault.jpg

[fR3ZNO]

I have 3.0 coils in a 1.8T. Is this bad?
(red Revision-M 3.0L free recall coils, instead of latest 1.8T Revision D black ones)
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/yXRVbifIaRE/maxresdefault.jpg

Assuming they have the same plug gap from the factory I don’t see an issue


there was a point in my life before i joined this forum that i couldn't even change my oil...just keep turning wrenches and you'll keep learning as you go!

Exactly! Everyone has to start somewhere.

[fishstick41]

Can I put in a k04 without a tune?

[mike82caddy]

Just bought a 6 speed avant. Does that mean it's an ultra sport or just came with a 6 speed it doesn't have the bumpers or side skirts.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[eljay]

Just bought a 6 speed avant. Does that mean it's an ultra sport or just came with a 6 speed it doesn't have the bumpers or side skirts.

Sent from my SM-N900V using TapatalkThat's not an Ultrasport then. USP was an appearance package with Sport package elements. There are auto USP Avants too.

[mike82caddy]

That's not an Ultrasport then. USP was an appearance package with Sport package elements. There are auto USP Avants too.Ok didn't realize they put 6 speeds in non ultrasport cars. Just bought it from original owner with a ton of paperwork and a ton of little problems lol

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[eljay]

there was a point in my life before i joined this forum that i couldn't even change my oil...just keep turning wrenches and you'll keep learning as you go!+1. Same story for me.

A used Audi will do that to you. It will either ruin you financially or it will ruin you financially plus give you experience in figuring things out! :)

[Spike00513]

Just bought a 6 speed avant. Does that mean it's an ultra sport or just came with a 6 speed it doesn't have the bumpers or side skirts.

Maybe it's sport. Like this:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Audi-A4-Avant-d26?sourceContext=openGraph_false_0#listing=197247 728

[fishstick41]

bump on the turbo question..

[jpulll]

bump on the turbo question..

You’ll be fine. Just don’t expect k04 numbers.


Sent from my iPhone

[fishstick41]

You’ll be fine. Just don’t expect k04 numbers.


Sent from my iPhone

thats what i expected i just don't want to throw money at something that would cause harm to my car. I plan on getting the car tuned here soon anyways.

[Kevin C]

Just bought a 6 speed avant. Does that mean it's an ultra sport or just came with a 6 speed it doesn't have the bumpers or side skirts.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

2004-2005's with AWD and a 1.8T got the six speed regardless of trim level or package.

[Spike00513]

How would I repair this?

Bi-xenon headlight access cap on the back, has a clip on the bottom.
But also x2 torx bolts, that screw into plastic.
And I stripped the plastic hole in one.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/4fJLLP7_7X4/maxresdefault.jpg

[old guy]

Simply cut a sliver of ABS or similar plastic, hit it with a little Super Glue and stick it in the stripped hole. Give it a few minutes to set up and you are good to go.

[5ktq]

You can get little brass inserts for wood, (so you can use machine screws in wood). I'd probably find something like that.

Sorta like a helicoil but solid, with coarse wood thread on the outside

[my1stturbo]

What's roughly the correct height for the cutoff for headlights if parked 5' from a wall? Swapped in the RetroQuik from Retrofitsource but one side is lower than the other one want to adjust them to match but want to get the correct height.

[fR3ZNO]

What's roughly the correct height for the cutoff for headlights if parked 5' from a wall? Swapped in the RetroQuik from Retrofitsource but one side is lower than the other one want to adjust them to match but want to get the correct height.

Generally you want a 1% slope for headlight cutoff, as in 1 foot drop for every 100 feet.

Here's a fairly lengthy article on it: Clicky Click (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html)

[Chemmie]

What's roughly the correct height for the cutoff for headlights if parked 5' from a wall? Swapped in the RetroQuik from Retrofitsource but one side is lower than the other one want to adjust them to match but want to get the correct height.

Headlamp angles are not supposed to match. In NA, the driver’s side light will be slightly lower to avoid blinding drivers in the oncoming lane.

[vvenom800tt]

Headlamp angles are not supposed to match. In NA, the driver’s side light will be slightly lower to avoid blinding drivers in the oncoming lane.
But the xenons already have the stepped cutoff so not to blind people. Its lower on the left side.

Illustration___________
__________/

[my1stturbo]

Thanks for the feedback. Will read up on it and adjust accordingly.

[fabric8]

Troubleshooting an issue which just started on my dads 1.8t:

Coolant temp guage takes forever to go up. It'll go up only about 1mm from full cold after about 10min of driving. It takes about 30min of driving to finally get to normal.

When the car is cold and is started, both radiator fans kick on full speed. Activating the econ button on the climate control has no effect.

It won't blow hot air until the coolant temp rises to close to normal.

I changed the thermostat last year with a Behr brand from FCP Euro.

Does it sound like this tstat is stuck open? When the tstat is open, does it send a signal to the ECU to turn the radiator fans on? Is that what the sensor on the tstat housing assembly is for?

[old guy]

That isn't a sensor on the thermostat. It is a heater that the ECU utilizes to force the thermostat open under certain conditions. When the ECU gets incongruent readings between the two temperature sensors the default position is to turn on the thermostat heater and run the cooling fans on high whenever the engine is running.

If you have access to a code reader see if you have a P1296 or similar code for the cooling system. I suspect you do.

I also suspect you have a defective thermostat. Try this. Unplug the thermostat heater and see if the car heats up normally. If it does, replace the rear coolant temperature sensor. if it still takes a long time to heat up, replace the thermostat. this will probably cause a CEL that you can clear later. Be sure to clear any codes when you are finished or the fans may still run on high even after replacing the thermostat.

[fabric8]

That isn't a sensor on the thermostat. It is a heater that the ECU utilizes to force the thermostat open under certain conditions. When the ECU gets incongruent readings between the two temperature sensors the default position is to turn on the thermostat heater and run the cooling fans on high whenever the engine is running.

If you have access to a code reader see if you have a P1296 or similar code for the cooling system. I suspect you do.

I also suspect you have a defective thermostat. Try this. Unplug the thermostat heater and see if the car heats up normally. If it does, replace the rear coolant temperature sensor. if it still takes a long time to heat up, replace the thermostat. this will probably cause a CEL that you can clear later. Be sure to clear any codes when you are finished or the fans may still run on high even after replacing the thermostat.

Thanks much Old Guy. You never cease to amaze me with all your knowledge over the years! The car was dropped off today at the body shop for some paintwork and will be done by Friday. I'll scan with VCDS when I get it back and will try what you recommend. As it happens, I ordered a coolant flange and replacement cts since I see a leak from back there and am planning to replace them over the weekend and will report back. Hopefully it's just the CTS!

[jonan]

i ordered a set of philips h11 led fog lights with the built in resistors, they worked error free last night when i did a test drive...

i started the car this morning and got a fog light out error even though they are still working fine...both sides are giving me the error so i'm not sure if BOTH resistors are out or i messed up the install somehow???

[fR3ZNO]

i ordered a set of philips h11 led fog lights with the built in resistors, they worked error free last night when i did a test drive...

i started the car this morning and got a fog light out error even though they are still working fine...both sides are giving me the error so i'm not sure if BOTH resistors are out or i messed up the install somehow???

I think it's just a case of the CANBUS system being finicky, perhaps the resistors don't have a high enough ohm rating for the warning to stay off. Since the resistors are built in, I can't see how you could mess up the install. I have LED bulbs for the license plate lights, no errors, but one fails to turn on (was working immediately after install). It decides to work sometimes, so I think the resistor portion is fine, but there is an internal issue with the board causing the LED's to not come on.

[jonan]

I think it's just a case of the CANBUS system being finicky, perhaps the resistors don't have a high enough ohm rating for the warning to stay off. Since the resistors are built in, I can't see how you could mess up the install. I have LED bulbs for the license plate lights, no errors, but one fails to turn on (was working immediately after install). It decides to work sometimes, so I think the resistor portion is fine, but there is an internal issue with the board causing the LED's to not come on.

thanks, yea i have the ziza LED license plate lights too and no codes, i'll probably just unplug them then plug them back in after work today to see what happens, if that fails i'll order a new set and return the ones that i have...

[my1stturbo]

Can the CCT gasket and half moon seal be changed on the 1.8 without pulling the intake cam?

[jonan]

Can the CCT gasket and half moon seal be changed on the 1.8 without pulling the intake cam?

i haven't changed mine in awhile, but i remember sliding out the halfmoon seal without removing the CCT...

[my1stturbo]

i haven't changed mine in awhile, but i remember sliding out the halfmoon seal without removing the CCT...

Thanks. I've done it on AEB but wasn't sure as I didn't have the same amount of room when trying it on a AWM last night. Figure that should be close to our motor.

[jonan]

i did loosen the cam tensioner though...i didn't remove the cams but did make them loose enough with the tool to wiggle everything out...

[my1stturbo]

i did loosen the cam tensioner though...i didn't remove the cams but did make them loose enough with the tool to wiggle everything out...

Thanks. I've replaced the tensioner before so don't entirely mind pulling that cam if need be but would prefer to leave it if possible.

[fabric8]

That isn't a sensor on the thermostat. It is a heater that the ECU utilizes to force the thermostat open under certain conditions. When the ECU gets incongruent readings between the two temperature sensors the default position is to turn on the thermostat heater and run the cooling fans on high whenever the engine is running.

If you have access to a code reader see if you have a P1296 or similar code for the cooling system. I suspect you do.

I also suspect you have a defective thermostat. Try this. Unplug the thermostat heater and see if the car heats up normally. If it does, replace the rear coolant temperature sensor. if it still takes a long time to heat up, replace the thermostat. this will probably cause a CEL that you can clear later. Be sure to clear any codes when you are finished or the fans may still run on high even after replacing the thermostat.

So I finally got a chance to scan the ECU and this was the the result:
3 Faults Found:
17700 - Map Controlled Engine Cooling Thermostat (F265)
P1292 - 004 - Open Circuit
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 -
19537 - Engine Temperature too Low
P3081 - 008 -

Since I had a new cts sensor laying around and have been waiting for a new rear coolant flange to arrive, I decided to swap it out. The old one looked pretty bad. I cleared the codes and now I only have this one error:
1 Faults Found:
17700 - Map Controlled Engine Cooling Thermostat (F265)
P1292 - 004 - Open Circuit

But as a result of replacing the CTS, the car is now warming up normally despite the 1 fault. So is it safe to say the thermostat is OK, but the heater on it is what's bad (as well as the CTS which I just replaced)? Is it possible to order just the heater for the thermostat? I'd rather not remove the t-stat if it's just the heater attached to it that's bad.

[old guy]

Did you remember to plug the thermostat heater back in? That would give you an open circuit code.

Unfortunately the heating element is part of the thermostat and not replaceable separately.

[fabric8]

I actually never unplugged it. It looked pretty tough to try to find a way to unclip the connector. It was quicker for me to just replace the CTS and see what happened. Although unplugging the t-stat heater would have been the next step I would have taken to trouble-shoot. The car has been running great since I changed the CTS. And oddly enough, changing the CTS also seems to have resolved a recent limp mode issue that started right about the same time as the coolant temp reading issue. Could this just be a coincidence or does a bad CTS cause the ECU to request less boost?

Thanks much for your help old-guy! My dad will be happy to feel heat (and boost) again :)

[old guy]

When you have a DTC for a "Performance Malfunction in Cooling System" the ECM knows something is wrong because of incongruent temperature readings. It just doesn't know exactly what is wrong so it does everything it can to protect the engine. Including running the cooling fans on high, full power to the thermostat heater, a richer fuel mixture and reduced boost. Once you got that code corrected the ECM pretty much returned to normal operations.

[fabric8]

When you have a DTC for a "Performance Malfunction in Cooling System" the ECM knows something is wrong because of incongruent temperature readings. It just doesn't know exactly what is wrong so it does everything it can to protect the engine. Including running the cooling fans on high, full power to the thermostat heater, a richer fuel mixture and reduced boost. Once you got that code corrected the ECM pretty much returned to normal operations.That explains it. Thanks much as always!!!

[Gosser]

What have people used to remove a 5spd gear box drain plug? Do you have to get the special triple square security bit? I have standard triple squares, but not one with the dimple in it.

[Matt Devo]

What have people used to remove a 5spd gear box drain plug? Do you have to get the special triple square security bit? I have standard triple squares, but not one with the dimple in it.

http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/3397fd5005264adab85f657578fe691a

[mobilesuit818]

Need some troubleshooting tree guidance.

1.8T power and throttle response has dramatically suffered with lots of bogging and occasional misfire.

034 Coil Harness installed 10k miles ago

Engine codes P0301/P0303/P0304 (note that number 2 wasn’t on there).

Checked the harness and injectors wiring with no issues.

Pulled the coil and spark plugs and notice #4 was covered in black soot(running rich), other plugs were normal.

So decided to take some carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks and slowly sprayed at different places especially around the intake and injectors and found a leak at #4 injector cup and didn’t find a leak anywhere else.

I ordered billet cup seals last night but it won’t be here for a few days. Don’t a small injector cup leak would make it this bad.

This one has gotten my scratching my head and could use your input.



Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[fR3ZNO]

Need some troubleshooting tree guidance.

1.8T power and throttle response has dramatically suffered with lots of bogging and occasional misfire.

034 Coil Harness installed 10k miles ago

Engine codes P0301/P0303/P0304 (note that number 2 wasn’t on there).

Checked the harness and injectors wiring with no issues.

Pulled the coil and spark plugs and notice #4 was covered in black soot(running rich), other plugs were normal.

So decided to take some carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks and slowly sprayed at different places especially around the intake and injectors and found a leak at #4 injector cup and didn’t find a leak anywhere else.

I ordered billet cup seals last night but it won’t be here for a few days. Don’t a small injector cup leak would make it this bad.

This one has gotten my scratching my head and could use your input.



Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Have you done a boost leak test?

Perhaps try swapping around the coil packs and see if there are any changes? Specifically the #2 cylinder coil pack.

[Gosser]

http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/3397fd5005264adab85f657578fe691a

Thanks, ordered!

[SJorge3442]

Car is creaking at low speed when the wheel is turned to the left and the strut gets compressed like when turning into a driveway with a raised apron when the drivers side tire hits fit). The noise sounds like something that is rotating is grinding a bit, but not a CV grind. Perhaps the strut mount?

[mobilesuit818]

Have you done a boost leak test?

Perhaps try swapping around the coil packs and see if there are any changes? Specifically the #2 cylinder coil pack.

I’ve swamped them all out and the same codes/condition appeared.

Then I switch out to some new ones I had, same thing there.

I don’t have a working compressor so no go on boost leak.



Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Spike00513]

Thanks, ordered!

This is another one. From the AST 6300 kit. I might have 2. One bought from a store (expensive), and then a second one that came with the 6300 kit I bought off Craigslist for like $25 total.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EYIAAOSwxEtanb16/s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AST-6300-X-16-VOLKSWAGON-AUDI-VW-TRANSMISSION-DRAIN-PLUG-TOOL-TAMPER-PROOF-16MM/273175448056?hash=item3f9a8689f8:g:EYIAAOSwxEtanb1 6

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/IrcAAOxyeglTWp03/s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Assenmacher-6300-7-Piece-12-Point-Socket-Bit-Set-for-VW-Audi/292003621521?epid=1301614941&hash=item43fcc5aa91:g:IrcAAOxyeglTWp03

[Gosser]

Thanks spike! It weird only the 5 speed transmission got this unique drain plug.

[AudiA4B61.8T]

it was the dealership. who knows how good their equipment is. rotating tires is my first thought, but i don't know whether or not they're uni-directional off the top of my head.
Tires will have tire rotation arrow if uni-directional tread pattern...

[Jakal]

Are the washers on the exhaust manifold to turbo bolts necessary? I see that the bolts are sold by themselves and (at least on ECS) there’s no washers to be bought as well. Bought new bolts but forgot about the washers and these old washers don’t fit over the threads to come off. 64056

[my1stturbo]

Anyone try to do a turbo rebuild themselves? I have a spare K03 that needs a rebuild so thought I might take it on rather than sending it out.

[B6_A4_Kid]

I have been doing some research on DV relocation to get it on the cold side. All of the threads I’ve seen were old and the linked parts were were no longer available. Has anyone done this recently and they want to share?

[old guy]

I have been doing some research on DV relocation to get it on the cold side. All of the threads I’ve seen were old and the linked parts were were no longer available. Has anyone done this recently and they want to share?

Clicky click (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=8475861&viewfull=1#post8475861)®

[B6_A4_Kid]

Clicky click (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=8475861&viewfull=1#post8475861)[emoji768]

OG you the man! Thank you!


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[B6_A4_Kid]

Another question. Are tiptronic and 6 speed m/t bell housing bolts the same?


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[WeekendDriver]

What's the easiest way to find out if my 1.8T FWD A4 saloon has proper acceleration dynamics (i. e. that the engine is making more or less its nominal power and torque across the working range of RPM)? The car is driving well as far as I can tell, but I'm starting to suspect it actually might be slower than it should be. The problem is that I bought it second-hand and I have no experience to judge whether or not it drives properly for a 163 HP 1.8T.

[texasboy21]

What's the easiest way to find out if my 1.8T FWD A4 saloon has proper acceleration dynamics (i. e. that the engine is making more or less its nominal power and torque across the working range of RPM)? The car is driving well as far as I can tell, but I'm starting to suspect it actually might be slower than it should be. The problem is that I bought it second-hand and I have no experience to judge whether or not it drives properly for a 163 HP 1.8T.

You can log the MAF readings to determine if the engine is flowing the correct amount of air (which can indicate the power it is making).

You can also log the actual vs requested boost pressure to ensure the correct boost pressure is being achieved.

[WeekendDriver]

You can log the MAF readings to determine if the engine is flowing the correct amount of air (which can indicate the power it is making).

You can also log the actual vs requested boost pressure to ensure the correct boost pressure is being achieved.
Thanks a lot! I have read about logging and analyzing various parameters, but have never done it myself.

if my source is correct, the MAF readings is group 216 and boost pressure is 115; testing should be done in 2nd or 3rd gear under full throttle 1500 RPM - 6000 RPM; easing off the throttle is unacceptable. Gonna have a fun time looking for a long enough free road [drive]
It is not possible to log more than 3 groups at once, is it?

[Dodaman]

Hello,

I have one. Being a new Audi owner. After I start the car and put it in drive, The OK symbol comes on in the dash and then goes out. Am I to assume that the cars computer analysed everything quick, and didn't sense anything wrong? Just want to make sure as this will be my daily driver, and it needs to hold up. Thanks

[RDA990]

Hello,

I have one. Being a new Audi owner. After I start the car and put it in drive, The OK symbol comes on in the dash and then goes out. Am I to assume that the cars computer analysed everything quick, and didn't sense anything wrong? Just want to make sure as this will be my daily driver, and it needs to hold up. ThanksCorrect. If it found something wrong it would show up instead.

[texasboy21]

Thanks a lot! I have read about logging and analyzing various parameters, but have never done it myself.

if my source is correct, the MAF readings is group 216 and boost pressure is 115; testing should be done in 2nd or 3rd gear under full throttle 1500 RPM - 6000 RPM; easing off the throttle is unacceptable. Gonna have a fun time looking for a long enough free road [drive]
It is not possible to log more than 3 groups at once, is it?

The support page at APR has a nice DIY:

https://www.goapr.com/support/datalogging.php

[fabric8]

When you have a DTC for a "Performance Malfunction in Cooling System" the ECM knows something is wrong because of incongruent temperature readings. It just doesn't know exactly what is wrong so it does everything it can to protect the engine. Including running the cooling fans on high, full power to the thermostat heater, a richer fuel mixture and reduced boost. Once you got that code corrected the ECM pretty much returned to normal operations.Since I replaced the CTS, there would still be the occasional delay with warm up and sometimes the temp would fluctuate a bit below halfway then go back up to half again and that thermostat open circuit error still remained. So I finally got around to replacing the thermostat today. My multimeter confirmed the heater thingy was bad (no continuity compared to the new). I could also see that the tstat ring wasn't in the middle like the new one. So I took it apart to see what happened. I discovered the 2 plastic prongs that hold the tstat ring in place had broken off (from the spring tension I suppose) so that's why it seemed like the tstat was stuck open. I'm never buying an Ebay tstat again. Replaced it with a Mahle one.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/4c3f0b2d2ef0416bf5ddad9a921452e8.jpg

[mysticjocephus]

Got one!! Recently (within the past 4 months) bought an 02 a4 3.0. For about a week after I got it, it would "chirp" when locking it, to confirm the alarm was set, and I know the little red "lock" lights would blink in a certain way to signal that as well. Shortly after that, my car stopped "chirping" and I can only hear the locks activate, but the red light blink pattern is different. Anyone know why this would happen or how I can fix it? Valuable stuff in car, and don't need it getting ripped off at work. Can never trust those damn temps.

[jj94tt]

Shortly after that, my car stopped "chirping" and I can only hear the locks activate, but the red light blink pattern is different. Anyone know why this would happen or how I can fix it?

Do you have access to a scan tool (more than just basic OBD2 scanner)? Have you checked that all of your doors physically lock? Within the door lock mechanisms are switches that tell the system that the doors are closed and locked. In my car, one of those mechanisms is faulty which leads the car to believe the front passenger door is always closed. Perhaps you have a fault where the car thinks one door is always unlocked (whether it is or not). To arm the alarm, the system probably needs the permissive that all doors are locked (among other things - hood, trunk latch, etc.). You can evaluate the status of each lock with VAGCOM.

[DarkoNova]

In the middle of a clutch job and I remember reading that you could just loosen the front subframe bolts and pry it down for access to the bottom tranny bolts.

I guess that's for 1.8 engines, because on the 3.0 they're Allen bolts and there was no way to get them with the subframe angled.

I had to drop the whole subframe down to get them out.

So is there a DIY on how to get the subframe aligned again?

I saw a hole on each side of the core support and another hole in the subframe and the aluminum pieces that the motor mounts and sway bar mounts bolt to. I'm assuming you just get all three holes lined up on each side and that's roughly where it needs to be?

Also, are any of the subframe or tranny crossmember bolts torque to yield? Or can I reuse them all?

[mysticjocephus]

Do you have access to a scan tool (more than just basic OBD2 scanner)? Have you checked that all of your doors physically lock? Within the door lock mechanisms are switches that tell the system that the doors are closed and locked. In my car, one of those mechanisms is faulty which leads the car to believe the front passenger door is always closed. Perhaps you have a fault where the car thinks one door is always unlocked (whether it is or not). To arm the alarm, the system probably needs the permissive that all doors are locked (among other things - hood, trunk latch, etc.). You can evaluate the status of each lock with VAGCOM.

I do not have access to a scan tool. Not insanely worried about it, I was just hoping it could be something small that I might have missed.

[fR3ZNO]

So is there a DIY on how to get the subframe aligned again?

I saw a hole on each side of the core support and another hole in the subframe and the aluminum pieces that the motor mounts and sway bar mounts bolt to. I'm assuming you just get all three holes lined up on each side and that's roughly where it needs to be?

Also, are any of the subframe or tranny crossmember bolts torque to yield? Or can I reuse them all?

Like you mentioned, you pretty much line up the holes that are on the body, with the motor mount and subframe holes on each side to align the subframe.

The subframe bolts are TTY, however you can generally reuse them once with no ill effects.

[jj94tt]

you pretty much line up the holes that are on the body

I used a deep socket as the dial pin to line up the holes... if you have a good selection of sockets, one of them should fit pretty snug.

[fR3ZNO]

I used a deep socket as the dial pin to line up the holes... if you have a good selection of sockets, one of them should fit pretty snug.

Yep, I've done the same. [up]

[DarkoNova]

Thanks guys.

Luckily the frame was pretty dirty so there's a nice clean area where everything was nice and tight. So hopefully I can get a socket that's snug and get the dirt lined up lol.

[old guy]

Aligning the subframe is more than just aligning the body/subframe holes. The whole purpose of aligning the subframe is to center the camber.

You can start with aligning the holes. Snug the subframe bolts up enough to prevent movement and then place the car back on level ground. Using a framing square and an angle calculator you can measure the camber on the left and right side. If everything is even go ahead and torque the subframe bolts. If not, adjust accordingly, snug back up and recheck.

You may have to do it a time or two to get it perfectly centered.

[Gosser]

Would you recommend, reinstalling with old bolts to get it to a shop, then handing over new bolts and telling them to align it?

[old guy]

Would you recommend, reinstalling with old bolts to get it to a shop, then handing over new bolts and telling them to align it?

If you center the subframe yourself there is no reason for the alignment shop to mess with the subframe bolts. with that being said, most alignment shops will simply tell you the the camber is not adjustable and you get what you get. Which is partially true. The camber isn't adjustable but you can center it from side to side by shifting the subframe which gets a bit more critical as you lower the car. As you go lower the camber automatically increases.

[WeenieHut]

Would you recommend, reinstalling with old bolts to get it to a shop, then handing over new bolts and telling them to align it?

Rear subframe bolts are all torque to yeild AKA stretch bolts so new bolts are a must.

[vvenom800tt]

Rear subframe bolts are all torque to yeild AKA stretch bolts so new bolts are a must.
Thats hilarious!

Ive loosened and retorqued mine like 10 times.

[WeenieHut]

Thats hilarious!

Ive loosened and retorqued mine like 10 times.

Just quoting the Audi manual.

[vvenom800tt]

The Audi manual also says is a two hour job to replace the coolant temp sensor.

Literally takes 30 seconds

[Jakal]

Does anybody successfully run an aftermarket trans cooler and a front mount intercooler?
Or is this not exactly a good idea blocking up the radiator that much.

[DarkoNova]

Anybody ever compared a new OEM flywheel to a bad one?

I'm curious how much play a new flywheel has. The one I just took off has about an inch of play, which I'm guessing is too much and causing my shifting issues. I guess I'd just like to see what a new one has...

[V70R]

Quite a bit actually...the 4cyl DMFW engines are pretty harsh on the flywheels, especially the AMB engines. V6's are not nearly as bad, but they're often very close to what LUK specifies for max movement. I'll have an 01E apart next week and can make vids of flywheel movement if ya would like. [up]

[DarkoNova]

Sure, why not?

More info is always good, lol.

I googled and there's videos of new vs old but I don't know what vehicle or engine they came off of. It looks like the new flywheels have basically zero play, which is what I'd expect.

[EURO_DOLL]

Dumbbbb question.

Those of you who’ve done the TT-RS steering wheel retrofit, you used your stock B6 clockspring or bought one to accompany the wheel?

Bought a B6 with the retrofit already done - airbag light’s on, and the buttons on the wheel and horn are inop (all which were fully functioning at one point per PO). Throwing a code for airbag 1 igniter - 99.9% sure it’s the clockspring that’s either toast or a connection’s loose in it.

Just wanna have the part ready for when I pop it off.

Thanks in advance!

[Matt Devo]

Dumbbbb question.

Those of you who’ve done the TT-RS steering wheel retrofit, you used your stock B6 clockspring or bought one to accompany the wheel?

Bought a B6 with the retrofit already done - airbag light’s on, and the buttons on the wheel and horn are inop (all which were fully functioning at one point per PO). Throwing a code for airbag 1 igniter - 99.9% sure it’s the clockspring that’s either toast or a connection’s loose in it.

Just wanna have the part ready for when I pop it off.

Thanks in advance!

replaced clockspring, yellow connector, and steering control module (-Q or later). I'd check the latter with VCDS first to see if the PO did the retrofit correctly. I also wired both stages to fire together, and can unfortunately confirm that the airbag does go off in a front end collision when wired this way

[EURO_DOLL]

replaced clockspring, yellow connector, and steering control module (-Q or later). I'd check the latter with VCDS first to see if the PO did the retrofit correctly. I also wired both stages to fire together, and can unfortunately confirm that the airbag does go off in a front end collision when wired this way

Thanks Matt!

I’m fairly confident it was done properly considering who owned the car prior, but I’ll definitely double check!

Gonna pop the wheel off and check everything once I get a second.

[jj94tt]

Anybody ever compared a new OEM flywheel to a bad one?

I'm curious how much play a new flywheel has. The one I just took off has about an inch of play, which I'm guessing is too much and causing my shifting issues. I guess I'd just like to see what a new one has...

When mine failed, the failure mode was more evident by applying a rocking motion with the engine side flat on the ground.. fwiw.

[jj94tt]

So, is it true that a rear cv boot can be replaced without affecting the alignment? There is a note at the end of an AZ diy that says as much, but without explanation. Thanks!

[RDA990]

Just got my whole front control arm + inner and outer tie rod kit. All I find are guides for either upper or lower arms, which way should I disassemble/reassemble to make it an easier job? Tie Rods -> Upper -> Lowers?

[jj94tt]

Just got my whole front control arm + inner and outer tie rod kit. All I find are guides for either upper or lower arms, which way should I disassemble/reassemble to make it an easier job? Tie Rods -> Upper -> Lowers?

Personally, I would disconnect the tie-rod ends from the knuckles first... and reconnect them last. That way, the weight of the knuckle is not stressing the steering rack as you are moving things around. Also, if you are doing the uppers, it's easy to drop the whole shock tower (3 easy to access bolts from above on both sides). Good time to replace shocks and mounts, too. With that said, I would: drop lowers, remove shock tower as assembly and replace uppers, re-install tower, install lowers, then do inner and outer tie-rods. Just be sure you properly support the weight of the steering knuckle throughout.... because I presume you are leaving the axles attached. Remember to torque everything at curb weight position (i.e. measure hub center to fender before you start anything).

If you end up needing inner tie-rod boots (I needed one), get cv boot clamps from Napa (use side-cutters to crimp). They are easier to work with on the car than the ones that come with boot kit.

Good luck with your pinch bolts. [headbang]

[Dodaman]

Ok, I always liked the look of most of these cars, and I can appreciate the time and $ that goes into them, but I always wondered when you lower the car and the wheels are on such a cant or angle, don’t you just tear thru tires? I do admit, it does look cool, but it just seems to me, the tires are looking at an early death. Is this true? Does it actually not effect them? You just don’t care 😀? Thanks

[old guy]

Ok, I always liked the look of most of these cars, and I can appreciate the time and $ that goes into them, but I always wondered when you lower the car and the wheels are on such a cant or angle, don’t you just tear thru tires? I do admit, it does look cool, but it just seems to me, the tires are looking at an early death. Is this true? Does it actually not effect them? You just don’t care 😀? Thanks

Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644245-Front-Alignment-Settings-For-Your-Lowered-B6-A4).

[B6_A4_Kid]

I am still tracking down the misfire on my car. I’ve boost leak tested this thing a bunch, it now holds pressure good and bleeds off pretty slow. I’ve got a b1 s1 malfunction in circuit so I ordered a new o2. I also have a p1360 which is SAI incorrect flow, P0299 control range not reached, and lastly p0140 which is b1 s2 no signal.

Car idles decent in neutral, in drive it shakes and vibrates like crazy. I am getting sick of this crap and want it to run right, on cold start is the worst, while it’s in high idle I can feel it cut out, like one cylinder not firing every second or so. I need some thoughts at this point, the whole engine is down on compression a little, basically 140 across the board.


Things replaced
-MAF
-Kombi
-fuel filter
-air filter
-plugs
-coils
-coil harness
-injector harness
-ECS TIP (shit)
-intercooler
-intercooler Hoses
-sjc
-Check valves
-034 breather hose kit
-PRV
-VC gasket
-many vacuum lines

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[Dodaman]

Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644245-Front-Alignment-Settings-For-Your-Lowered-B6-A4).

WOw, that is a good write up, and I still can’t believe you can get those miles out of that setup. It so looks like they ride on the inside edge. Really cool. It amazes me people like you figure this stuff out. Not sure I’ll be doing this to my Cabriolet. But very cool nonetheless. Thanks.

[AudiA4_20T]

Are 2.0T coilpacks still an upgrade people do? Or are the newest revision coilpacks generally fine these days?

[old guy]

Are 2.0T coilpacks still an upgrade people do? Or are the newest revision coilpacks generally fine these days?

My last coil pack replacement on the A4 was in December '09 when the Revision D came out. To the best of my knowledge it is still the latest official version for the B6. They have over 140k miles on them and so far they have performed flawlessly.

[fR3ZNO]

On the speed side of the gauge cluster, under 0mph there looks to be a light. I’ve never seen it come on, what is it for?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180514/c0ee6febf92e09748161011b23d5d5a8.jpg

[mongold88]

If the transmission fluid has never been changed in a manual trans, and its at 150k is it still ok to change out?? I've heard of stories were if it wasnt done at the right time to just leave it alone?? Does that also go for diff fluid as well?

[fR3ZNO]

If the transmission fluid has never been changed in a manual trans, and its at 150k is it still ok to change out?? I've heard of stories were if it wasnt done at the right time to just leave it alone?? Does that also go for diff fluid as well?

I think you're getting what you've heard mixed up with automatic transmissions. You can change the fluid in the transmission and rear diff at 150k with no issues.

[old guy]

If the transmission fluid has never been changed in a manual trans, and its at 150k is it still ok to change out?? I've heard of stories were if it wasnt done at the right time to just leave it alone?? Does that also go for diff fluid as well?

Not only CAN you change the transmission fluid, you SHOULD change the transmission fluid. I recommend using Ravenol.

- - - Updated - - -


On the speed side of the gauge cluster, under 0mph there looks to be a light. I’ve never seen it come on, what is it for?



That is a light sensor. Shine a flashlight on it and see what happens to your display back-lighting.

[fR3ZNO]

Not only CAN you change the transmission fluid, you SHOULD change the transmission fluid. I recommend using Ravenol.

x2 on the Ravenol for manual trans.


That is a light sensor. Shine a flashlight on it and see what happens to your display back-lighting.

Neat! Wasn't aware the back lighting self adjusted. I knew you can turn it up and down with the + and - buttons.

[daught]

Oldguy you have a 5spd, right? I read a bunch of threads on the matter, and from what I recall ravelnol is great on the 5spd, but for the 6spd in the end the consensus was only the OEM oil performed well in very cold climates. I could be wrong...

[AudiA4_20T]

My last coil pack replacement on the A4 was in December '09 when the Revision D came out. To the best of my knowledge it is still the latest official version for the B6. They have over 140k miles on them and so far they have performed flawlessly.

I guess my question is, is it worth doing the 2.0T coil conversion on a stock car? I remember when everyone was doing it because of better spark, cleaner ignition, etc etc but it seems to have died off

[fR3ZNO]

Oldguy you have a 5spd, right? I read a bunch of threads on the matter, and from what I recall ravelnol is great on the 5spd, but for the 6spd in the end the consensus was only the OEM oil performed well in very cold climates. I could be wrong...

I have a 6 speed and am running Ravenol. Works perfectly well in cold climates (I'm in Upstate NY, we have fairly cold winters. Not Canada cold, but still cold.)

Clicky Click (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/741878-Ravenol-75w-80-MTF-2-Review)

[fR3ZNO]

I have a 6 speed and am running Ravenol. Works perfectly well in cold climates (I'm in Upstate NY, we have fairly cold winters. Not Canada cold, but still cold.)

Clicky Click (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/741878-Ravenol-75w-80-MTF-2-Review)


I guess my question is, is it worth doing the 2.0T coil conversion on a stock car? I remember when everyone was doing it because of better spark, cleaner ignition, etc etc but it seems to have died off

I have the 2.0T coils on my stock 1.8T B5, the coils are pretty cheap compared to new 1.8T ones and I had them on hand.

[mongold88]

[QUOTE=old guy;13105031]Not only CAN you change the transmission fluid, you SHOULD change the transmission fluid. I recommend using Ravenol.


Thank you for the info, gonna look in to the fluid you suggested and possibly do it on my next pay day.

[mongold88]

So I also have 3 questions kinda related to parting out.....

1) I'm trying to find a spare HVAC control unit to have, if I find one that has a good price. My B6 does not have heated seats but does seem to have every other option that was available for that car new. Like Sport suspension, xm radio (which works), the upgraded sound system, etc. So do I just need to find another B6 without heated seats and take that HVAC unit?

2) There is a parts car I'm looking at and it seems like it has steering wheel controls for the radio, how will i know if this would work on my B6??

3) how come some B6's have a hidden cigarette outlet/power point outlet, and mine is stationary

[B6_A4_Kid]

I guess my question is, is it worth doing the 2.0T coil conversion on a stock car? I remember when everyone was doing it because of better spark, cleaner ignition, etc etc but it seems to have died off

I just made the switch and noticed absolutely no difference. Tried plugs at .028 and .040 and car runs and feels the same.

[Matt Devo]

So I also have 3 questions kinda related to parting out.....

1) I'm trying to find a spare HVAC control unit to have, if I find one that has a good price. My B6 does not have heated seats but does seem to have every other option that was available for that car new. Like Sport suspension, xm radio (which works), the upgraded sound system, etc. So do I just need to find another B6 without heated seats and take that HVAC unit?

2) There is a parts car I'm looking at and it seems like it has steering wheel controls for the radio, how will i know if this would work on my B6??

3) how come some B6's have a hidden cigarette outlet/power point outlet, and mine is stationary

1) you can buy the one I'm selling in my part-out in the classifieds; it's a B7 unit (w/o heated seats), but I wrote a DIY to make it work in a B6

2) for steering wheel controls to work, you need the wheel w/controls, slip ring/clockspring, and steering control module to all support that functionality (plus correct coding in VCDS)

3) mid-cycle design change; you likely have an MY04 or later

[AudiA4_20T]

I just made the switch and noticed absolutely no difference. Tried plugs at .028 and .040 and car runs and feels the same.

Cool. Regular CPs it is

[RDA990]

ABS + ESP lights have been going on and off the past few weeks. I've been thinking it's either my brakes that I haven't changed in 4+ years (upgrading to B7 calipers + brakes this weekend) or brake switch (bought a new one in case replacing the brakes don't work).

But today while driving home about 5mph both lights were off, until the ABS started making its noise and then the lights turned on. I stopped to get gas and after I turned the car on the ABS + ESP lights stayed on and I noticed the speedometer not working?!?!?

[Gosser]

ABS + ESP lights have been going on and off the past few weeks. I've been thinking it's either my brakes that I haven't changed in 4+ years (upgrading to B7 calipers + brakes this weekend) or brake switch (bought a new one in case replacing the brakes don't work).

But today while driving home about 5mph both lights were off, until the ABS started making its noise and then the lights turned on. I stopped to get gas and after I turned the car on the ABS + ESP lights stayed on and I noticed the speedometer not working?!?!?

Worn/thin pads will set off the pad sensor only on your DIS. The ABS/ESP is most likely the brake light switch. But if the ABS is actually making noise, then there is something else at play, and the speedo seems un related to everything else. Start with the switch and take it from there.

[Jakal]

I just recently had my k03 turbo rebuilt by a shop and when I tried to drive the car it would not make boost and would smoke from the turbo.
Today I tried again and still no boost and there’s smoke coming up from the turbo seemingly. No lights on the dash.

Until just now I drove the car and now it doesn’t smoke, but there is still no spool and no lights.

Now I must admit, not knowing what the watergate actuator arm was. I didn’t think too much of it and just tried to get it to be as straight and level as I could. Did me loosening the clamp on it and moving it mess things up possibly?

Any ideas?

[pablolizarraga]

ABS + ESP lights have been going on and off the past few weeks.

I read up on this as I was getting same symptoms but my speedo always worked.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/682728-Fighting-with-ABS-and-traction-control-light

Fortunately, for me it went away after I cleared codes and never came back. Only thing I can think of is that ABS/ECS warnings came on shortly after re-connecting battery. Hopefully it’s built up brake dust. Good luck!




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[WeekendDriver]

An airbag error is haunting me. Front passenger seat bag. Previously, I used to have this error pop up maybe twice a year, I would clear it and it would go away for months. But now it immediately pops up again mere seconds after I clear it.
The only possible cause I know I can easily fix is the seat connector in the floor beneath the seat.
The only possible cause I know I can't fix is a faulty igniter.

Question is: which reason for this error do you think more likely, and is anything else I could do besides checking the seat connector on the floor?

[RDA990]

An airbag error is haunting me. Front passenger seat bag. Previously, I used to have this error pop up maybe twice a year, I would clear it and it would go away for months. But now it immediately pops up again mere seconds after I clear it.

Is it this one:

01217 - Side Airbag Igniter: Driver Side (N199)
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

I've had that the past few months but I haven't attempted the under the seat wiring fix yet. I also read that there is another connection for it right behind a panel under the hood release handle.




Side Question: Is the Blauparts timing belt kit the "best" one out there since it includes the new non-hydraulic tensioner?? Everyone else (ECS, FCP, etc.) carries the older mechanical tensioner. Blauparts has their kit at $270 vs $170 for an FCP kit with the mechanical tensioner.

[WeekendDriver]

Is it this one:
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter: Driver Side (N199)
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

That's the one!

[DarkoNova]

I don't remember because I scanned it a long time ago but my airbag light has been on for over a year. The threads about the connector fix have dead pictures.

Anyone have pictures of the fix?

[WeekendDriver]

Is it acceptable to use factory Audi wheel bolts with 5 mm spacers? Or will thread engagement be an issue?

[old guy]

Is it acceptable to use factory Audi wheel bolts with 5 mm spacers? Or will thread engagement be an issue?

Unacceptable. You need wheel bolts that are 5mm longer than the factory bolts.

[WeekendDriver]

Unacceptable. You need wheel bolts that are 5mm longer than the factory bolts.
Fair enough, thank you. I was hoping there'd be some safety margin in the bolt's length that would allow using it with a spacer.

Do you happen to know the length of the factory bolts? And is it acceptable for the bolt to be a little longer? Is there space for it to protrude into on the other side of the wheel hub?

[DarkoNova]

I'm contemplating pulling the whole engine and transmission to replace my clutch. I pulled the tranny and got the clutch and flywheel replaced, but I don't have a tranny Jack and only have one floor jack, so getting this big heavy beast back up was a pain.

I admit, I got lazy and got it about 1/4" away from being up against the block and then pulled it on with bolts.

Clutch pedal is super stiff and won't budge at all, so I'm guessing the splines weren't lined up and now the input shaft is pressed up against the clutch.

Rookie mistake, I know, but I was tired and wanted it done. :/

So anyway, how much of a hassle is it to pull a 3.0 and 6 speed together? I figure, I've already loosened the subframe, so at this point it's just coolant and fuel lines. And hopefully I can easily disconnect the AC compressor and power steering pump and just move them to the side.

I'd pop the hood and check myself, but I don't have room at my place, so the car is about 30 miles away at my parents' house.

[NaiveTurtle]

I'm contemplating pulling the whole engine and transmission to replace my clutch. I pulled the tranny and got the clutch and flywheel replaced, but I don't have a tranny Jack and only have one floor jack, so getting this big heavy beast back up was a pain.

I admit, I got lazy and got it about 1/4" away from being up against the block and then pulled it on with bolts.

Clutch pedal is super stiff and won't budge at all, so I'm guessing the splines weren't lined up and now the input shaft is pressed up against the clutch.

Rookie mistake, I know, but I was tired and wanted it done. :/

So anyway, how much of a hassle is it to pull a 3.0 and 6 speed together? I figure, I've already loosened the subframe, so at this point it's just coolant and fuel lines. And hopefully I can easily disconnect the AC compressor and power steering pump and just move them to the side.

I'd pop the hood and check myself, but I don't have room at my place, so the car is about 30 miles away at my parents' house.

Removing the engine and trans together is usually how I accomplished clutch jobs in a garage. The transmissions in these cars are way to tall to just slide out from under the car usually. I can have an engine/trans combo out of a car in ~4 hours from wheels up with the help of a friend. The removal is actually pretty straight forward. undo all the connectors, vacuum lines, fuel lines that you can. Unbolt the axles from each side and unbolt the drive shaft from the trans. Remove the ECU from its housing and flop the entire wiring harness on top of the engine. Drop the AC compressor down and out of the way. It's pretty easy to do. You don't even need to touch the sub-frame.

[DarkoNova]

Probably what I should have done, then. Now I have to worry about getting the subframe centered and hope I don't have a damaged clutch.

I don't really want to mess with the front and putting it into service position, mainly because I don't want to have to realign the headlights, but I guess that's a small inconvenience if it means doing everything right.

[customa4]

Fair enough, thank you. I was hoping there'd be some safety margin in the bolt's length that would allow using it with a spacer.

Do you happen to know the length of the factory bolts? And is it acceptable for the bolt to be a little longer? Is there space for it to protrude into on the other side of the wheel hub?

The stock size is 14x1.5x27mm. These are the ones you'll need with 5mm spacers. Click (https://store.blackforestindustries.com/whbofor5vwau1.html)

SIZE RECOMMENDATIONS:
Stock (no spacers) - 27mm
3mm Spacers - 30mm
5mm Spacers - 32mm
8mm Spacers - 35mm
10mm Spacers - 40mm
15mm Spacers - 45mm
20mm Spacers - 50mm
25mm Spacers - 50mm

[WeekendDriver]

The stock size is 14x1.5x27mm. These are the ones you'll need with 5mm spacers. Click (https://store.blackforestindustries.com/whbofor5vwau1.html)

Thank you!
I'm going to have 7 mm spacers, which means I'd need 34 mm bolts. Is it OK to use 35 mm instead?

[customa4]

Thank you!
I'm going to have 7 mm spacers, which means I'd need 34 mm bolts. Is it OK to use 35 mm instead?

Yes, that’ll be fine.

[WeekendDriver]

Last silly question: are our stock bolts for 17 mm or 19 mm wrench?

[Matt Devo]

Last silly question: are our stock bolts for 17 mm or 19 mm wrench?

17mm, but the external size isn't what matters -- it's 14x1.5mm, 27mm length, ball seat

[WeekendDriver]

17mm, but the external size isn't what matters -- it's 14x1.5mm, 27mm length, ball seat
Thank you. I understand that, but I want thew new bolts to remain compatible with the stock wheel wrench.

[Jakal]

So I’ve now found out now that I shouldn’t clean my maf with water. I did that a few weeks back. The car idles fine, but I still have zero boost.
I:
-checked the n75 and it holds air
-checked that the wastegate actuator arm is opening under pressure

Is there any chance I messed up the maf and it’s causing me to not make boost? Good to note that I had no lights come on.


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[WeekendDriver]

And the very last question on wheel bolts (I promise!): will 40 mm bolt do with a 7 mm spacer? I can't find 35 mm bolts in stock in my town, but 40 mm are in abundance.

[customa4]

And the very last question on wheel bolts (I promise!): will 40 mm bolt do with a 7 mm spacer? I can't find 35 mm bolts in stock in my town, but 40 mm are in abundance.

My guess is that may be too much. Someone else will be able to answer more accurately. I'm not sure what's available for clearance beyond the stock size.

[RDA990]

Is there a way to find out (Size, color, tip color, etc) which bolts are torque to yield and need to be replaced every time you take them out? I will be doing a TB soon and want to know if the water pump and serpentine belt tensioner bolts need to be replaced. Also wondering if loctite is fine to use on bolts that go on the aluminum head? A few years ago when I was taking a valve cover bolt off it came off with the threads, I don't want that to happen if I use loctite on some aluminum threads.

[APC123]

ABS + ESP lights have been going on and off the past few weeks. I've been thinking it's either my brakes that I haven't changed in 4+ years (upgrading to B7 calipers + brakes this weekend) or brake switch (bought a new one in case replacing the brakes don't work).

But today while driving home about 5mph both lights were off, until the ABS started making its noise and then the lights turned on. I stopped to get gas and after I turned the car on the ABS + ESP lights stayed on and I noticed the speedometer not working?!?!?

Bad ABS sensor in one or both of the front wheels. ABS, ESP (Traction Control), Speedo(Wheel speed) are monitored by ABS sensors. When one of them fails, all of these thing are a result. It happened to my on the way home from school while on 95. I got so freaked out but called a friend who knows these cars well and he told me that’s what was happening.

[tequilashots]

Here's a change of scenery,
Does anyone know which specific make and model for the cabriolet S4 family in the great year of 05' , that comes with a silver exterior , w/ red interior, manual transmission and SPECIFICALLY quadruple exhaust?
Its important that it comes with the quad exhaust as stock.
I swear by the audigods I came across one with that exact description and with the stock QUAD exhaust, but I've been doing research on the internet and I cant seem to find one damn picture of that thing. It's like looking for the great white buffalo.

Thanks. Itd be awesome if you share pictures of this myth.

I really want some concrete evidence because I want to know if such an awesome car exists. Only then I will realistically save up and trade in my A4 with more exhilaration than ever before.


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[G.AUDI]

Broke while removing headlights. Anyone got a part number for this hose? Smaller upper hose from reservoir connects to it. Thanks https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180524/aacd039786d912ae741c02bd5bcf3505.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180524/8579d6d6817b180ccb86dff14b63bf5b.jpg

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[old guy]

Clicky click® (https://www.europaparts.com/radiator-hose-8e0121101.html)

https://www.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/8/e/8e0121101.jpg

[G.AUDI]

As Always, thanks for the help.

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[DarkoNova]

So noob question, but how hard should it be to press the clutch in on a new rs4 clutch by hand? I originally pulled the tranny to put on a jhm lightweight clutch/flywheel. But when I went to put the tranny in, I got it about 1/4" away and pulled it together with bolts.

Clutch pedal was super stiff and wouldn't move. I knew I shouldn't force it, but I did, and then the pedal dropped to the floor.

So this weekend I pulled the engine and tranny and separated them.

Put the clutch alignment tool in and it slides in nice and easy, nothing looks damaged. Aside from the slave cylinder, lol.

But this time I actually got the tranny to sit flush up to the block before installing any bolts.

Anyway, I thought I'd try pressing on the fork with a prybar or something, but I still can't get it to move. I don't think I messed anything up but I guess I need reassurance, lol.

I figure the leverage from using your leg and the hydraulics of the clutch is more than an average person can muster up with their arms, but I don't want to install everything only to have a stiff pedal and a blown slave cylinder again.

[WeenieHut]

So noob question, but how hard should it be to press the clutch in on a new rs4 clutch by hand? I originally pulled the tranny to put on a jhm lightweight clutch/flywheel. But when I went to put the tranny in, I got it about 1/4 away and pulled it together with bolts.

Clutch pedal was super stiff and wouldn't move. I knew I shouldn't force it, but I did, and then the pedal dropped to the floor.

So this weekend I pulled the engine and tranny and separated them.

Put the clutch alignment tool in and it slides in nice and easy, nothing looks damaged. Aside from the slave cylinder, lol.

But this time I actually got the tranny to sit flush up to the block before installing any bolts.

Anyway, I thought I'd try pressing on the fork with a prybar or something, but I still can't get it to move. I don't think I messed anything up but I guess I need reassurance, lol.

I figure the leverage from using your leg and the hydraulics of the clutch is more than an average person can muster up with their arms, but I don't want to install everything only to have a stiff pedal and a blown slave cylinder again.As long as you seated the slave cylinder correctly before reinstallation you should be fine. Did you re-bleed the clutch? What you're describing to me sounds like air in the system. Happened when the slave went out on my E36

[DarkoNova]

Well I haven't put the engine/tranny back in the car yet.

I just thought I'd try to press on the fork while everything was out of the car, just to make sure it works properly. But even with a long, thick prybar, I couldn't move the fork.

So far, I've just installed the new slave cylinder, I haven't actually bled it yet.

[WeenieHut]

Well I haven't put the engine/tranny back in the car yet.

I just thought I'd try to press on the fork while everything was out of the car, just to make sure it works properly. But even with a long, thick prybar, I couldn't move the fork.

So far, I've just installed the new slave cylinder, I haven't actually bled it yet.

You rarely hear of the fork failing, and even then it is a pretty obvious bend or snap. Were you trying to pivot the fork with the slave in? Also the new pressure plate in your flywheel + clutch combo it likely add quite a bit of clamping force to make up for the lack of rotating mass compared to the regular pressure plate so that should also make it more difficult for you to pivot by hand.

[DarkoNova]

Nope, just stuck a prybar in the hole.

When it was in the car, I just put the old slave cylinder in the hole and slowly pushed it in until the bolt holes lined up. I didn't want to have to bleed it, and that seemed like the recommended way.

I dunno, I'm just kinda nervous since I separated the engine and tranny and didn't really see any obvious signs of damage or improper installation.

I dunno, I guess I'll find out tomorrow when it's back in the car...

[jpulll]

Can someone with a proper running power steering system do the following.

-Start the car for 2 minutes. Kill the engine after 2 minutes.

-Open reservoir cap and shine a light in and make an observation.

I truly don’t know whether I’m overthinking, losing my mind, cursed. Idk. My observation is there are small bubbles that you can only see with a flashlight rise to the surface. Small as in a thousandth of an inch in diameter.

My pump isn’t whining, my fluid isn’t low, it doesn’t get frothy. Just after I kill the engine that is what I noticed. I don’t know whether that is normal or not, or I still have some place getting air in.


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[Jakal]

Does the brake booster vacuum pump turn on only while braking or is it also supposed to be on in other cases aswell?

And does anyone have any recommendations or links to good reliable vacuum pumps they use that aren’t genuine Audi.
Thanks!

[Jakal]

Does the brake booster vacuum pump turn on only while braking or is it also supposed to be on in other cases aswell?

And does anyone have any recommendations or links to good reliable vacuum pumps they use that aren’t genuine Audi.
Thanks!

I’ve done so searching and see that the pump should be on at all times whenever the car is on. Is this accurate? Trying to decide if I should buy a new pump to fix my p1479 code and hopefully p0299 [emoji51]

[mobilesuit818]

Old guy and other experts, I have a problem that has been stumping me and a few mechanics.

Standard misfire codes, did a boost leak test and found the Suction Pump valve faulty, which was then replaced, car runs a little better but still bogging under WOT.

Did another leak test with soap and water and didn’t see anything else leaking.

Checked harness and plugs and all fine.

Pulled fuel pressure and noticed that it was at 30 psi at idle and WOT. I remember that I should be around 58 psi.

I changed my pump about a year ago and less than 10k.

I went and changed the fuel filter with no increase in fuel pressure.

I’m stumped on the low fuel pressure? Fuel pump either works or doesn’t? Line clogged?


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[Frogdude]

Jakal, the brake booster vacuum pump turns on only when the vacuum in the system gets low enough to require it. The ECU monitors the vacuum at the sensor that is connected to the tube coming off the back of the brake booster. If you have VCDS you can do a Short Trip test to see if the pump is working. p1479 can also be caused by a vacuum leak.

[APC123]

Old guy and other experts, I have a problem that has been stumping me and a few mechanics.

Standard misfire codes, did a boost leak test and found the Suction Pump valve faulty, which was then replaced, car runs a little better but still bogging under WOT.

Did another leak test with soap and water and didn’t see anything else leaking.

Checked harness and plugs and all fine.

Pulled fuel pressure and noticed that it was at 30 psi at idle and WOT. I remember that I should be around 58 psi.

I changed my pump about a year ago and less than 10k.

I went and changed the fuel filter with no increase in fuel pressure.

I’m stumped on the low fuel pressure? Fuel pump either works or doesn’t? Line clogged?


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Sometimes even (“new”) parts are bad, fuel pressure is generated from a fuel pump, considering you checked all vacuum possibilities, wiring (failure of wiring wouldn’t usually constitute inconsistent throttling, either there’s a connection, or there isn’t) and now you discovered your FP is low. By process of elimination, this could be the problem. It could also pertain to bad injectors, *something to do with fuel*, maybe you could use a MAF and Throttle body cleaning as well, those are a good general periodic maintenance thing to do. It also could be air, Air meaning, related to the turbo, runs through MAF and Throttle body, IM etc. Another thing to consider, maybe a clogged CAT. The engine will literally be UNABLE, to move air if a CAT is clogged.

All of these things are possibilities. These cars require process of eliminations on most things, notoriously over engineered for the most part. Both good and bad. Sometimes problems are easy to find, sometimes you check everything.

Maybe Old Guy and chime in

Good luck my friend

[mobilesuit818]

Sometimes even (“new”) parts are bad, fuel pressure is generated from a fuel pump, considering you checked all vacuum possibilities, wiring (failure of wiring wouldn’t usually constitute inconsistent throttling, either there’s a connection, or there isn’t) and now you discovered your FP is low. By process of elimination, this could be the problem. It could also pertain to bad injectors, *something to do with fuel*, maybe you could use a MAF and Throttle body cleaning as well, those are a good general periodic maintenance thing to do. It also could be air, Air meaning, related to the turbo, runs through MAF and Throttle body, IM etc. Another thing to consider, maybe a clogged CAT. The engine will literally be UNABLE, to move air if a CAT is clogged.

All of these things are possibilities. These cars require process of eliminations on most things, notoriously over engineered for the most part. Both good and bad. Sometimes problems are easy to find, sometimes you check everything.

Maybe Old Guy and chime in

Good luck my friend

I’ve changed the injectors to a backup pair that i have, unplugged the MAF with no change to the bogging and misfire.

This one has me really stumped.



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[APC123]

I’ve changed the injectors to a backup pair that i have, unplugged the MAF with no change to the bogging and misfire.

This one has me really stumped.



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It may be something along the lines of a timing issue then. Maybe, I’m not sure

[jpulll]

I’ve changed the injectors to a backup pair that i have, unplugged the MAF with no change to the bogging and misfire.

This one has me really stumped.



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Did you check the injector wiring? I’ve had to replace both my coil pack and injector harness’s.


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[mobilesuit818]

Did you check the injector wiring? I’ve had to replace both my coil pack and injector harness’s.


Sent from my iPhone

Yep, checked all injectors harness, even unplugged them along with the coil packs, which all exhibited changes to the idle.




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[Dodaman]

Ok, I have a few questions. I haven’t hooked up the VAG to monitor this yet. I was hoping to do this next week, but it has been bugging me, so I thought I’d ask.

I have the 3.0L. With the temp needle halfway, what is normal coolant operation temp? 190- 205 range?


Also, with the 5 speed tiptronic tranny, what is normal temp range for this, too. ( I’m just speaking of normal highway speed, no hills or towing)?


And last, and this isn’t exactly a direct car questions, but how do I insert a picture without it being a thumbnail size. I see all these nice large pics, and I don’t see how to do that. Please forgive me since I didn’t search that questions. Thanks.

[audi_nightrider]

I originally have an AMB head but replaced it with AWM when I replaced my headgasket.
So now would it matter if I order AWM or AMB timing belt kit?

I know they are 99.9% match except for the engine code so would like to hear from you guys.

Camshaft seal started leaking oil so might as well change out the whole timing belt system...sucks only about 45k miles on the current timing belt kit.[headbang]

TIA!

[customa4]

You will order the same kit for AMB. I installed an AWM cylinder head on mine as well and this is the kit I used from Blauparts. Click (https://www.blauparts.com/audi-a4-timing-belt-kit-18t-amb-plus.html) This kit also comes with the upgraded Litens tensioner. [up]

There are other kits on their site that may fit your needs better, your choice.

[Natejo91]

Could someone point me to a test pipe that has the front O2 sensor bung off set towards the passenger side and not pointed towards the sky? Need one to make my exhaust manifold work. Thanks!


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[NorthOfNorthern]

Ok, I have a few questions. I haven’t hooked up the VAG to monitor this yet. I was hoping to do this next week, but it has been bugging me, so I thought I’d ask.

I have the 3.0L. With the temp needle halfway, what is normal coolant operation temp? 190- 205 range?


Also, with the 5 speed tiptronic tranny, what is normal temp range for this, too. ( I’m just speaking of normal highway speed, no hills or towing)?


And last, and this isn’t exactly a direct car questions, but how do I insert a picture without it being a thumbnail size. I see all these nice large pics, and I don’t see how to do that. Please forgive me since I didn’t search that questions. Thanks.

Haha, you said VAG.

Btw, I’m 12 years old... [emoji849]

...and I’ve had a few whiskeys.


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[fabric8]

So there's a B7 that just showed up at my local pick'n pull and I've been wanting to do the B7 center console swap for a while for the better cupholders. What are all the parts I'd need to pull?
-B7 center console
-B7 parking lever?
-B7 parking brake cable?

Are those right? Anything else? Ie brackets, wire harness etc?

I might also pull the front and rear calipers,carriers and rotors if they dont charge too much for them.

[G.AUDI]

So there's a B7 that just showed up at my local pick'n pull and I've been wanting to do the B7 center console swap for a while for the better cupholders. What are all the parts I'd need to pull?
-B7 center console
-B7 parking lever?
-B7 parking brake cable?

Are those right? Anything else? Ie brackets, wire harness etc?

I might also pull the front and rear calipers,carriers and rotors if they dont charge too much for them.Basically, the console, cigarette/power outlet, (should be attached to the console anyway), and the ebrake. Pigtails as well if you want to connect power to the front ashtray. I would grab the front ashtray while you are at it but it's not necessary.

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[fabric8]

Basically, the console, cigarette/power outlet, (should be attached to the console anyway), and the ebrake. Pigtails as well if you want to connect power to the front ashtray. I would grab the front ashtray while you are at it but it's not necessary.

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[mongold88]

So I've got a high pitched metal squeal noise(like a brake pad indicator) coming from the driver side (either front or rear, I'm thinking front wheel) happens at highway speeds 60-80mph. The noise will come and go while driving, if I push in the clutch noise is still there, if I hit the brakes noise goes away. If I wiggle the steering wheel back and forth it will also make the noise go away or come back, but not all the time. I'm thinking its something brake related, maybe backing plate or anit-rattle clips touching the rotor?? Just looking for some ideas, I'm going to put it on a lift this weekend at a friends to go over everything.

[SJorge3442]

So I've got a high pitched metal squeal noise(like a brake pad indicator) coming from the driver side (either front or rear, I'm thinking front wheel) happens at highway speeds 60-80mph. The noise will come and go while driving, if I push in the clutch noise is still there, if I hit the brakes noise goes away. If I wiggle the steering wheel back and forth it will also make the noise go away or come back, but not all the time. I'm thinking its something brake related, maybe backing plate or anit-rattle clips touching the rotor?? Just looking for some ideas, I'm going to put it on a lift this weekend at a friends to go over everything.

could be the backing plates, but it could also be a wheel bearing. I've had wheel bearings go bad before and cause weird noises on their way out.

[mongold88]

could be the backing plates, but it could also be a wheel bearing. I've had wheel bearings go bad before and cause weird noises on their way out.

I thought about that as well, that would definitely be a first for me on wheel bearings making that kinda noise. All of the wheel bearings Ive ever had go bad made a roar/hum noise. But anything is possible

[SJorge3442]

I thought about that as well, that would definitely be a first for me on wheel bearings making that kinda noise. All of the wheel bearings Ive ever had go bad made a roar/hum noise. But anything is possibleIve had one go that sounded like I was dragging barbed wire under my car. That was def a new noise lol

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[mobilesuit818]

[QUOTE=mobilesuit818;13133385]Yep, checked all injectors harness, even unplugged them along with the coil packs, which all exhibited changes to the idle.

The low fuel pressure and random misfire probably root cause was bad fuel and fuel pump.

Purchased a Bosch unit complete and ran some high pressure air thru the entire system after removing the line from the engine bay and the fuel filter.

Now it runs like new and fuel pressure is back to normal after changing injector cup seals, SJP, and a few hose clamps.

[fabric8]

I scored well today at my local pick n pull and took home the complete center console and 3 rear headrests from a B7 for $37.

I was hoping to pull its calipers+carriers too but only the driver side front and rear are on the car. They look to be in great shape and the wrecker is offering them to me for $15each. Should I get them for a total of $30 and just wait to find B7 passenger side front and rear calipers?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/25a4f2b41742ed98d94f34eeece3eb9d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/18bd7c2597a9de7bb56767e52d5f2d21.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/8c62534ac4e530130c0550487c25c1b7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/4486e391c5e3eb871dee7aed30514fc0.jpg

[Gosser]

Holy crap that is a dirty center console. I bet it'll clean up well though. I would grab calipers for 15 bucks for sure. they are usually 60-100 bucks for fronts and maybe 50 for the rears.

Is it possible to install a clutch disc backwards?

[jj94tt]

Is it possible to install a clutch disc backwards?

I don't think so. I don't think it would sit flush against the flywheel and allow you to bolt up the pressure plate. Why do you ask?

[Gosser]

I don't think so. I don't think it would sit flush against the flywheel and allow you to bolt up the pressure plate. Why do you ask?

Going into install a single mass flywheel, disc and pressure plate this weekend. I see one side being taller with the springs and nothing in the instructions, or written on the disc, other than Vaelo stamped. Maybe once the flywheel is on, there will be clear interferences with one way vs the other.

[fabric8]

Holy crap that is a dirty center console. I bet it'll clean up well though. I would grab calipers for 15 bucks for sure. they are usually 60-100 bucks for fronts and maybe 50 for the rears.

Ok thanks. Going to go back there and pull them off and store them for now until I find passenger side calipers.

With a little elbow grease, it cleaned up very well!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/ba0576b9e4a919dcd12ee5cfed979ff5.jpg

[fR3ZNO]

Going into install a single mass flywheel, disc and pressure plate this weekend. I see one side being taller with the springs and nothing in the instructions, or written on the disc, other than Vaelo stamped. Maybe once the flywheel is on, there will be clear interferences with one way vs the other.

Typically on the clutch there's a side that's marked "gearbox side". So you'd install it with that side facing out towards the gearbox.

You can see it near the splined portion in the center.

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/619669_x800.jpg

[DarkoNova]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure on my JHM setup , the clutch said "flywheel side" on one side. I forgot which side it was, though.

[Gosser]

Yep I'm blind, mine says 'gearbox side', verified mine which is this one:
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/473528_x800.jpg
other side for reference:
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/473527_x800.jpg

Cant wait to see how this single mass flywheel feels compared to my steel SMLWFW(also yet to be installed)

[G.AUDI]

Looking into getting an oil cooler and saw the cost of the OEM one. Any of the other brands good to go or is this one of the items where OEM is the only option to use? Ecs has a refresh kit around $ 116 vs the part at > 260.

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[B6_A4_Kid]

The questions is gt2871r or td05-20


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[jpulll]

Here’s a weird one. Cruising along and notice my boost gauge is stuck at 24inhg. Even when I go to pass someone and I can hear the turbo spool up, the gauge stays at 24inhg. I have no tools to troubleshoot this as I’m on vacation.


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[mongold88]

Ive had one go that sounded like I was dragging barbed wire under my car. That was def a new noise lol

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So far it seems like the backing plates where it... fingers crossed

[Spike00513]

I'm thinking about making a folding-seat mat.
Has anyone done this before?

I already have a trunk cargo mat,
but nothing to protect the rear seat backs when they're folded down sometimes, to carry large objects.

I saw Autozone had some sort of generic liner (labeled as being for car trunks/cargo area), that said "cut to fit" for $10.
But didn't buy that to try it out, to see if it works.
Maybe something that can be rolled up and kept on the side when not in use.

http://naczac.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/cgl1.jpg

[needmovies]

My car is done for. Broke down two weeks ago, diagnosed by mechanic with timing issues because of crank pulley failure. He fixed the timing so the car would at least start. It starts now but is really rough at idle and gets constant misfires from cylinder 4 plus the random misfires code. We're thinking damaged valves probably on at least one cylinder if not more.

I've decided to trade the car in and buy something else. Stupid question: do you guys think it would be ok to drive the car to the dealer? It's 6 miles away, around 15 min drive, town roads not too busy but it does have some traffic lights here and there, no highway though. I've started the car in my garage and had it running for 20 mins or so while I pull vagcom codes but I haven't driven it since it broke down. I just had it towed to and from the mechanic.

[goalieman24]

Slightly audible noise/vibration when stopped with the A/C on. Goes away with A/C off. A/C still works fine. Likely the tensioner?

[DarkoNova]

My car is done for. Broke down two weeks ago, diagnosed by mechanic with timing issues because of crank pulley failure. He fixed the timing so the car would at least start. It starts now but is really rough at idle and gets constant misfires from cylinder 4 plus the random misfires code. We're thinking damaged valves probably on at least one cylinder if not more.

I've decided to trade the car in and buy something else. Stupid question: do you guys think it would be ok to drive the car to the dealer? It's 6 miles away, around 15 min drive, town roads not too busy but it does have some traffic lights here and there, no highway though. I've started the car in my garage and had it running for 20 mins or so while I pull vagcom codes but I haven't driven it since it broke down. I just had it towed to and from the mechanic.

No offense, but if it idles noticeably rough and the check engine light is flashing because of misfires, no dealer is going to take it from you. If you don't want to drive it, why would anyone else looking to buy a car?

I'd say your best bet is to find another engine and swap it in. It's the 3.0, right? The general consensus here seems to be that those are gutless and heavy, so most people get rid of them for 2.7T's. You should be able to find another 3.0 for a decent price.

EDIT: a quick search on eBay shows tons of them, ranging from $400 to $1000.

[Spike00513]

My car is done for. Broke down two weeks ago, diagnosed by mechanic with timing issues because of crank pulley failure. He fixed the timing so the car would at least start. It starts now but is really rough at idle and gets constant misfires from cylinder 4 plus the random misfires code. We're thinking damaged valves probably on at least one cylinder if not more.

I've decided to trade the car in and buy something else. Stupid question: do you guys think it would be ok to drive the car to the dealer? It's 6 miles away, around 15 min drive, town roads not too busy but it does have some traffic lights here and there, no highway though. I've started the car in my garage and had it running for 20 mins or so while I pull vagcom codes but I haven't driven it since it broke down. I just had it towed to and from the mechanic.

Crank pulley failure; is it rubber and disintegrated or something? Is it a high-mileage maintenance item that'd be beneficial to replace then, whether with a new OEM one or aftermarket upgrade like Fluidampr? The latter is expensive. Hopefully OEM is cheap.

Would it even run if the valves are bent, unless it's even slightly?
It's not any of the many other things that seem possible to go wrong on a high-mileage stock 1.8T?

For CEL's/Check Engine Light, I heard a solid lit one basically means "hey, there's an engine issue. Take it to a mechanic/workshop or check it out yourself when you get a chance, if you know how."
But that if it's flashing (even worse running), it means "Turn the car off immediately and fix it. Running it like this can cause damage."

Because a solid lit one would not legally be allowed to pass smog (one of the requirements is that there's no CEL illuminated on the dash), though cars may still manage to move under it's own power with it on.

[fR3ZNO]

Does anyone know where to find a replacement connector (auto dim connector, not the heated ones) for the auto dim mirrors? I have a set of power folding housings, someone snipped the connector off when they replaced one of the auto dim mirrors with a normal one.

I don't think it has a separate part number AFAIK.