Turbo Nerds "Bout damn time" build thread [Archive]

Turbo Nerd

09-25-2011, 11:41 PM

Ok so I think it's time to make this....

2001 Audi A4 1.8TQM

Motor:
-JE 82.5mm pistons, 9.25:1 CR
-JE piston rings
-IE Rods
-ARP head bolts
-ARP main studs
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP crank bolt
-OEM main bearings
-OEM rod bearings
-OEM thrust washers
-OEM head gasket
-OEM oil pump, pick up tube, screen
-Full timing belt kit (Gates racing belt)
-AEB head
-Supertech valve springs and retainers
-Supertech Inconel +1mm exhaust valves and stainless +1mm intake valves
-CAT 3658 Cams
-IE intake manifold
-80mm hemi throttle body
-Stern Motor Mounts
-034 snub mount with cage

Turbo setup/exhaust:
-PTE6768 .82 A/R Billet Ball Bearing
-SPA mani
-TiAL 38mm wastegate
-3" 034 SPA downpipe
-3.5" exhaust

Fueling/tune:
-ID2000 injectors
-Adjustable FPR
-Aeromotive Eliminator Pump
-Surge tank
-AMD tuned
-Hallman Pro MBC

Transmisson:
-CMFX850SS
-JHM "Trio" package
-034 Track Density tranny mounts

Interior:
-Bride Seats
-S4 Cluster
-Custom gauge pod
-AEM 52mm digital boost gauge
-AEM 52mm Uego wideband
-AEM Oil Pressure

Exterior:
-Casablanca white
-S4 front bumper
-S4 side skirts
-S4 grill (ordering RS4 grill)
-96 A4 euro style trunk
-Painted lower rear bumper
-Tints
-16x7 Mercedes CLK320 wheels
-Hoosier slicks
-Depo Ecodes

Miscellaneous:
-Euro valve cover
-New expansion tank and cap
-Rebuilt steering rack
-New front axles
-Stern power ring and bushing
-FSI coils

Turbo Nerd

09-25-2011, 11:44 PM

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/ab641d17.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/5978c249.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/c6687c72.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/475cf0f7.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/2e7cf78e.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/99241598.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/a1d40b8a.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/fe896fec.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/0df74bda.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/10278078.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/272904ff.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/47b720b2.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/d545cdea.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/1ec11f48.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/bcb1df0e.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/de0cf9fd.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/0143068f.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/3a284174.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/eabe9290.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/85365bb5.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/86c7712d.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/29f5b611.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/bed65cde.jpg

Turbo Nerd

09-25-2011, 11:44 PM

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/49eeb9f5.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/aa33b4ed.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/39d8efda.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/4623b5f4.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/fab66552.jpg

Then the overheated block I bought....

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/c4e44961.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/674099b5.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/7032addc.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/e3cae02d.jpg

After I cleaned it up and honed it a bit so I can see how deep the pit in the cylinder wall is...

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/e1116a7e.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/fc4e6b7f.jpg

I'll get more pics up when I get my block back from the machine shop and when more parts come in....

Couldn't find the pic of the gauge pod, it's a custom dual gauge pod that uses the middle A/C vents (1st and 2nd vent are used, and 3rd is normal.... fiberglassed and the gauges face towards me). It's being made right now and I should have it soon, I'll be sure to get the pics up when I recieve it.

Turbwhistle

09-26-2011, 03:54 AM

Subscribed!!

Seerlah

09-26-2011, 05:31 AM

jaychen

09-26-2011, 05:58 AM

Nice build,

Are you side skirts painted or do they come factory painted?

Turbo Nerd

09-26-2011, 07:15 AM

I learned in the B6 A4 section that JE's clearance spec sheet is wrong, just in case the person who built your block went by that (piston to wall clearance is wrong). There are people in the B6 A4 section who have had piston slap because of going by the JE clearance spec sheet. Just a heads up. And nice build[up].

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/438425-Recommended-oil-weight-for-2.0-stroker-motors?highlight=piston+slap

I'm not too worried about piston slap, I really shouldn't have any since I have rifle drilled rods. Thanks for the head up though, I'll talk to the machinist about this. I'm leaving to go to the machine shop in a couple minutes to drop off a few things so they can balance it. I'll take some quick pics of the block while I'm there.

Nice build,

Are you side skirts painted or do they come factory painted?

They were a different color that came off an S4 so I had to paint them.

bw86

09-26-2011, 07:36 AM

.[up].

CCA4

09-26-2011, 07:46 AM

Lookin good so far man, I envy that you can do your own bodywork. When you upgrade to the PTE 6262 I may want to take that elim kit off your hands [:D]

Dan[FN]6262

09-26-2011, 08:06 AM

Coming this winter/early next year....
-PTE 6262
-Treadstone T3 stainless steel cast manifold

6262 will not fit on that manifold. You have to get a tubular or SPA

Turbo Nerd

09-26-2011, 08:57 AM

Thanks for the good replies, as far as bodywork I don't do it myself I just sanded that ish down for a couple hours. The S4 bumper is red, the santorin blue, and the filler plate is silver lol.

Dan, that kind of sucks it won't fit on that manifold because that mani is pretty sick. My initial mani I was going to go with was the full race one which is nice. When time comes for the new turbo setup I'll have to find out what I want to do but I have nothing but time.

Little update already, I went to the machine shop to drop off my flywheel and crank pulley/harmonic balancer/whatever you may call it to have it balanced and resurfaced. I seen my block sitting there all purdy and brand new but I didn't take any pics since they had it wrapped up, it shouldn't be too long before I can pick it up.... These guys are fast and top notch. I seen all the big block's sitting there and I'm thinking to myself "wow my motor looks like a small turd compared to these big boys lol.

I'll update again when new parts come in or something happens, again thanks for the comments, recommendations, and info.

Btw I'll let you know when I want to get rid of my elim kit, it only has like 12-15k on it.

CCA4

09-26-2011, 11:00 AM

Thanks for the good replies, as far as bodywork I don't do it myself I just sanded that ish down for a couple hours. The S4 bumper is red, the santorin blue, and the filler plate is silver lol.

Lol gotcha. I tried to do body work on my old Bronco and it was decent, but I no longer have anyplace to do that kinda stuff :(

Btw I'll let you know when I want to get rid of my elim kit, it only has like 12-15k on it.

Thanks man! [up]

melomandn

09-26-2011, 11:04 AM

Btw I'll let you know when I want to get rid of my elim kit, it only has like 12-15k on it.

x2 on this!

ZimbutheMonkey

09-26-2011, 12:19 PM

Looking forward to seeing progress. As for the detonation that did the engine in, any idea as to why it occurred?

MOtown A4

09-26-2011, 12:19 PM

quattro4me

09-26-2011, 01:07 PM

[wrench] do'n work [wrench]
[up][up]

Turbo Nerd

09-26-2011, 01:42 PM

what machine shop are you going to? im pulling my motor and building a 2.0 pte6262 this winter, so it would be nice to have a referral from someone who has had experience with a shop, and since im local to you it would work out even better.

Automotive Machine Shop they are on the corner of Utica and Garfield in Roseville. Here's there number (586) 294-4311. Goodluck with your build, if you need any help let me know.

Turbo Nerd

09-26-2011, 05:06 PM

Looking forward to seeing progress. As for the detonation that did the engine in, any idea as to why it occurred?

My thoughts were dying fuel pump. It had a S4 fuel pump in there and it whinned a bit, I could feel the power drop off at about 6k (like I hit a brick wall) which I think I was running lean. I didn't have a wideband at the time but I can assure you this won't happen again.

Turbo Nerd

09-27-2011, 10:29 PM

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/bcc4fa14.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/54b05ac6.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/2c127432.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/8ea855cc.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/a7152fc1.jpg

Clutch and ARP main studs should be here this week, still waiting on the custom gauge pod, probably will go to the dealer sometime this week to get a new pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, and a few gaskets.

Edit: after looking at my funny looking bumper I think I'm going to run it like this for the winter and put a euro plate on that says "Frankenstein".

TConklin821

09-27-2011, 10:39 PM

I like that. Most Euro plates are 10 digits though. It'll have to be Frnknstein or something to that effect

Turbo Nerd

09-27-2011, 10:46 PM

I'd really prefer not to get the car painted during winter since I would be scared to drive it. I might just primer it my self and shoot it with paint for winter and in the spring get the whole car painted. Here's a pic from February....

Looked pretty funny but I could car less.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/74ca36bf.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/th_7c01e967.jpg (http://s498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/?action=view&current=7c01e967.mp4)

Turbo Nerd

09-27-2011, 10:48 PM

Oh yea that vid is for you since it made me remember it from reading your sig lol.

Turbo Nerd

09-28-2011, 11:25 AM

Machine shop called me a little bit ago they said the motor is ready and I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning, clutch is going to be here tomorrow also. Total cost for machine work was $605, includes bore, deck, hot tank, balance, gap rings, and resurface the flywheel..... I don't think that is too bad.

I'll be sure to take pics when I get it tomorrow.

Martin.

Turbo Nerd

09-29-2011, 12:34 PM

Woke up a little late today so I didn't have a chance to pick the block up, I'll do it first thing tomorrow morning. CMFX400 came in this morning before I left for work (didn't have a chance to take pics as I was kind of late).... Hopefully it will hold for a while. Still waiting for ARP main studs to come in and since the machine work, clutch, and other things drained my paycheck I have to wait till next week to hitup the dealer to get a few odds and ends.

Plans this weekend remove my axles and steering rack, then go to town on cleaning my filthy engine bay. I'll get the pics up of the clutch tonight when I get home and pics tomorrow of the block.

That's about it for now.

jaychen

09-29-2011, 04:08 PM

What was wrong with your last bumper?

Build is coming along quickly!

How much power are you hoping to put down with the new setup?

Turbo Nerd

09-29-2011, 08:42 PM

What was wrong with your last bumper?

Build is coming along quickly!

How much power are you hoping to put down with the new setup?

Nothing just the usual rocks chips and bullshit, I sanded it down before I blew my motor and was going to paint it but I didn't see a point at that time to do it since I wouldn't be driving it. As for power I want at least 340-350 wheel on pump gas and meth on this setup, my next setup I want 500+ whp on pump gas.

Here's the clutch that came in.....

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/f384da61.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/5549290a.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/a20dfb1d.jpg

Question, can I re-use my pressure plate bolts from my old one or do I need to buy new ones?

ThatA4T

09-29-2011, 09:12 PM

Replace them

Seerlah

09-30-2011, 12:38 PM

How much more would it have cost to have the shop assemble your block? Or you just find comfort in knowing that you yourself assembled it?

Turbo Nerd

09-30-2011, 12:49 PM

How much more would it have cost to have the shop assemble your block? Or you just find comfort in knowing that you yourself assembled it?

I will only pay for service if there is something I cannot do or don't want to do. I'm not sure how much thy would of charged to assemble the bottom end but it isn't brain science and this isn't the first motor I built. The machine shop asked if I wanted them to hang the pistons and I said no ($75), the only thing they did that I didn't feel like doing was gapping the rings.

I feel like a bigger man knowing that I built it myself and not some shop. Also for piece of mind "I know" I torqued everything, I know I greased this, I know I installed that right ect. I'm certainly not saying I'm a pro engine builder or anything but I'm not a noob at it and I think this motor should be very healthy, I don't care for max power I'd rather have a engine that is strong and healthy.

/rant lol

Seerlah

09-30-2011, 12:52 PM

Why so mad? haha

Turbo Nerd

09-30-2011, 05:45 PM

Lol not mad just excited to drive this thing again.

Turbwhistle

10-02-2011, 02:09 PM

Common, where are the pictures of this block?

Turbo Nerd

10-02-2011, 02:52 PM

Lol Monday for sure I will pick it up. This weekend I was pretty busy we had a family party Saturday and Sunday (today), so Friday before work I had to set up tables, chairs, and what not. If I didn't have anything planned for this weekend I would of started assembly of the motor, but then again the ARP main studs are going to be here Thursday.

Turbo Nerd

10-03-2011, 11:45 AM

So I picked up the block and couldn't take any pictures since I'm at work right now, I will snap some when I get home later on. Machine shop said they couldn't resurface the wheel since it's a dual mass and that I could run it like that, got me a little skeptical. They said they mic'd it and checked for out of round, came out fine they said. So should I just go over with it with 100 grit sandpaper? Also they didn't label or mark my rods, I'm not trying to put the rods in backwards and have problems.... I have the IE rep rods rifle drilled, anyone know what I should do? The pistons aren't marked either but I can figure that out.

Seerlah

10-03-2011, 12:14 PM

I thought only thing that mattered was having the tangs on the connecting rod facing the intake manifold? Since the block and parts are fresh, I am not sure the orientation of the other parts (pistons and wristpins) matter. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me (still learning).

Also, why the 228mm over the 240mm clutch? Simply because of cost?

Turbo Nerd

10-03-2011, 12:54 PM

Thanks I will let other chime in too but thats what I figured.

Yes because of cost at the moment. My main priority is to get the cat back on the road asap, so it was either 540 shipped of 1075 shipped, and if this one starts to slip than I will have enough money later on to upgrade to a 240mm. I could of bought it right now but than other parts would of been delayed and like I said I need this thing back to life.

Thanks for the info though.

Turbo Nerd

10-03-2011, 10:26 PM

As promised.

ARP Head Bolts
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/42b528b7.jpg

Polished Crank, Rods, and Pistons
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/386c5e7d.jpg

Close up
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/9b6f0ca6.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/79db2fc9.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/baad8573.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/4c0ba86a.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/6d567c5c.jpg

From this.....
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/e3cae02d.jpg

To this.....
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/ca6f23bb.jpg

I got the dilemma figured out about my question, I was thinking too hard for some reason.... better to think than to not think at all.

Seerlah

10-03-2011, 10:31 PM

I got the dilemma figured out about my question, I was thinking too hard for some reason.... better to think than to not think at all.

So, only tang orientation matter in your case?

Turbo Nerd

10-03-2011, 10:39 PM

So, only tang orientation matter in your case?

Pretty much, I was just confused for a little bit how they actually balance a motor..... The rods are all the same weight as is the pistons so they don't take anything off (as far as the rods) to balance the assembly. So pistons or rods can go in any cylinder they want (tang orientation like you mention) and there is really no way to put in the pistons wrong (I mean there is but I won't lol), since I have the beveling for the valves on my pistons I can't really mess up.

Turbo Nerd

10-03-2011, 10:47 PM

This weekend is plasti-gauging, engine bay clean up, remove axles, remove steering rack, remove center diff (ship to JHM), swap cams, change lifters, change one valve (I don't like the way it's looking me in the eye, I can tell she wants to go) and probably start putting the motor together but depends on how late it is. Have to hit the stealership (or All European or S&G Imports) sometime this week to pick up flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, pilot bearing, exhaust gaskets (turbo to dp, turbo to mani, mani to head), oil and coolant line gaskets, and some other little things.

Turbwhistle

10-04-2011, 03:50 AM

Sooo cleannn! Looking good [up] what was the final bore diameter?

CCA4

10-04-2011, 06:13 AM

change one valve (I don't like the way it's looking me in the eye, I can tell she wants to go)

i lol'd [:D]

Nice lookin build you've got so far!! [up]

Turbo Nerd

10-04-2011, 08:35 AM

Sooo cleannn! Looking good [up] what was the final bore diameter?

Yea it come out good.... 82.5

Seerlah

10-04-2011, 09:06 AM

I don't like hating on vendor's threads, but don't send your center diff to JHM. There is a guy on Vortex who sells the required machined washers for $55 shipped (picked them up myself a while back). Then a member on here made a DIY for you to do it yourself. If you can asemble an engine block and take out your steering rack, there is no reason why you should not be able to do it yourself.

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5358272-B5-S4-A4-4-1-center-differential-modification-like-StaSIS-JHM (link to installation DIY is on first post)

Turbo Nerd

10-04-2011, 09:33 AM

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out tonight. [up]

Turbwhistle

10-12-2011, 10:23 PM

Any updates?

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 06:32 PM

Small ones, my grandma is in the hospital so I've been there mostly the last two weekends. I've been really waiting on my main studs that took FOREVER to come in, so I didn't do too much since I didn't have them in. Also went to the dealer on Thursday to pick up misc. gaskets, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, ect. Here's what I did today....

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/8f455eaf.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/058479db.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/d1bd09d6.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/3e5e58e7.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/1ade7519.jpg

ARP head bolts, ARP main studs, OEM crank bolt, OEM flywheel bolts.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/b04e70b5.jpg

Hung my pistons.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/4a4ebe19.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/55a77640.jpg

Test fitted my gauges to the custom pod.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/c739194e.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/d583db3e.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/f64c2ce7.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/23a5828d.jpg

Also plasti-gauged my crank and rod bearings, cleaned the shit out of my dual mass flywheel, still haven't cleaned my engine bay. I'm not sure how I'm going to do that as I don't want to f*ck up my driveway, I might get it towed to the car wash down the street from a buddy but idk yet. That's about it for now, I hope to start assembly next week sometime.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 06:34 PM

Nice[up]

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 07:00 PM

Thanks, it's going slow but it's tough when you work 60 hours a week and too tired to do shit when you come home. Oh yea so when I went to the dealer to get my parts the parts guy was a complete moron.... I felt like I went there, walked behind the counter, went on ETKA and made my own order, while he just went to the back with the part numbers and got my stuff. I told him I needed a new oil dipstick tube since I broke mine (would of bought a new one anyway), he goes "oh you got a discount" I'm cool I look at the screen and it say $29.xx. My eyes were like [o_o], you call that a discount I said? There like $9 bucks online new OEM ones, I told him I'll pass there is no way I'm spending 30 bucks on a dipstick tube without the dipstick (even with the dipstick f*ck that).

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 07:19 PM

What's needed to be worthy for the build section?

biketsai

10-16-2011, 07:21 PM

I like where this thread is going. Overall, can you give us an estimate of a ballpark cost that you have put into this rebuild? I really which I had a casa car!

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 07:30 PM

Yea let me do some adding real quick...

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 07:40 PM

...

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 07:45 PM

Somewhere in the ballpark of $3600. Don't include everything listed in my first post since I had some of the parts.

Spare motor, internals with all hardware/gaskets/studs/bolts ect., machine work, misc. things from the auto parts store and stealership, clutch, gauges, oil pump, idk a bunch of things.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 07:47 PM

I am thinking around $7000 for an entire gt2871r build. I dont know how much with the block work though.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 07:58 PM

No that's too much. Even if you need turbo, lines, manifold, injectors, maf housing, tune, exhaust, intake, intercooler ect. Can be had for much cheaper.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 08:01 PM

Full gt2871r kit from ringer racing with tune and fueling, larger fmic, rods, pistons, all mounts, clutch and flywheel, exhaust, short shifter. I got 5600 in my cart with just rods, gt28 kit, short shiter,and mounts. Then figure in 1000 for exhaust, 600 for pistons, 600-1200 for intercooler, then misc parts. Its up there around 7000.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 08:02 PM

Also about the block work, you can just add rods. I spent 540 on pistons and 600 on block work, so I'd think you could have a resealed engine with upgraded rods for well under $1000 (I bought rifle drilled rods for 355 shipped). It all depends what you want and what your doing, I'm doing everthing.... every seal, gasket, timing belt kit, new this, new that ect.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 08:05 PM

I think the 1000 for the motor build seems a bit low, maybe shops in your area are cheaper. I am thinking like 1500-2000 if i were to do a 2l build.

jaychen

10-16-2011, 08:08 PM

Wish my motor was this straight forward, your build is coming along nicely.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 08:13 PM

Oh I was saying just dropping in rods and calling it a day. Are you saying 1500-2000 for machine work alone? If you were doing a 2871 I would just do rods, I would of went that route but my block had to be machined which required me to go with big bore pistons. I'm going bigger though after winter so I'm going "all out" high revving 1.9ish litre (not quite 1.9). So it all depends what are your future plans, but you don't need a 2L for a 2871.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 08:14 PM

Wish my motor was this straight forward, your build is coming along nicely.

Why what's up with yours?

It's coming, slowly but surely.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 08:15 PM

well, i was thinking about a 2l build just for the quicker spool. The 7000 was scat rods and maybe pistons.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 08:19 PM

Meh, I wouldn't spend the extra 2-3 or so grand for a couple hundred RPM's. More headache, more money, more time loss from driving the car. I wish I would of just did rods in my old motor before I blew it, would of saved me a grip of money.

flynnr

10-16-2011, 08:20 PM

I am thinking around $7000 for an entire gt2871r build. I dont know how much with the block work though.

This is for sale on my local audi forum - very reputable seller, i have met him and seen this kit in person. He took this out because he is building his car into a racecar

"Parting out this Turbo kit to make room for another. All parts are in great shape and ready for a new home. I dnyo'd at the last 034motorsport Dyno Day at DBPerformance and made just under 300wheel HP and Torque to match with no problems. I'll post a Dyno sheet ASAP.

Whats included:
Garrett GT2871R Ball Bearing Turbo
ATP Cast Manifold
ATP Down Pipe
550cc high amp Injectors
034 Fuel rail with Fuel Pressure gauge
V-Band Turbo to DP
OE ECU w/ MIKA TUNE (not pictured)
Borla Exhaust (not pictured)
All Turbo lines and hardware

All you'll need is some gaskets that fell apart when we removed the kit.
[email protected]
Asking: 2,150.00 OBO "

http://www.mnaudi.com/gallery2/d/90729-2/photo02.jpg?g2_GALLERYSID=b5f4b16b09131d461d7d784a 5bcac22f

http://www.mnaudi.com/gallery2/d/90817-1/DSCN0593.jpg?g2_GALLERYSID=37882ddd6fd9f58744af428 33d8ce70d

jaychen

10-16-2011, 08:24 PM

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 08:25 PM

Good shit, just no money. There is also a psi turbo kit for sale that seems good. I know kneel runs it and he likes it. I would like to do a precision turbo, if i can figure out a kit. The gt28 kits just make it so easy.
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=59628&title=stage-iii-psi-turbo-kit&cat=21

I would almost like to go with this kit and run the hp5857sp.
http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/CTS_B5_A4_1_8T_Hardware_Kit-2589-1.html

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 08:27 PM

1200 for ic? what are you smoking?

Get a genuine garret core for 300ish and have a mate tig you up some pipes for a carton of beers.
I am saying if someone were to go with a er intercooler its around $1200ish. I personally think i would go with a treadstone core for $250, and make/buy the piping.

Treadstone core
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=2035&cat_key=63&prodname=TR11+Intercooler

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 08:38 PM

I have a TR8L.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 08:42 PM

How do you like it?

Crispy222

10-16-2011, 08:43 PM

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 08:48 PM

I dont know, what do you guys think of the gtx3071r?

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 08:53 PM

I paid $709 for my block work. That included:
83mm bore with torque plate (extra with torque plate since it requires more time to install the plate and uninstall it. They really break it down into .1 hours)
hone and cross hatching
rotating assembly balanced, crank pulley to clutch pressure plate
block line check
magnaflux block deck
wash and clean block/blow out all blind holes, ready for paint and assembly
polish crank

Do you not need the oversized headgasket to run 82.5mm bore? IIRC OEM 1.8t headgasket only went to 81.5mm bore.
http://www.intengineering.com/Overbore-Headgasket-for-p8914943-1-2.html

Did you watch the videos on 1.8t engine assembly? I thought they were a great help in all the little tricks like putting the retaining rings in the pistons for the wrist pins. I would defiantly recommend getting rid of that dual mass flywheel. It would suck big time to have to pull the motor or trans out after it has been together for a week to replace it. They basically fall apart and fail. In the future, I'd go with the SPA manifold. Install it on the head before putting the head back on the car if you're doing that at the same time. It makes it easier. In your build list, you put IE rods, but later you wrote IE rep rods, Ebay? I haven't heard that many people using these since IE rods are already so reasonably priced.

I think I seen the video last year or something. I bought the rods from a IE reseller, they 99.9% exactly the same as integrated rods just cheaper. I paid 355 for those + the rifle drilling option, I don't care if they don't have the IE logo on the rod so it wasn't an issue for me. About the head gasket, the OEM one can go to 82.5mm so anything beyond that will require a big bore head gasket. I would of went with a larger bore but the pistons were more $ than a big bore head gasket was more $ and I didn't feel that going to a 83mm piston or larger was worth to me so that's why I stuck with 82.5mm and OEM head gasket (elring).

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 08:55 PM

Oh yea about the retaining clips they went in like a breeze for me. Took about 30 minutes taking my time lubing everything and installing all of them.

Edit: My dual mass should be fine, if it held up 158k from the factory and a 2871 running 18+psi I don't think I will have a problem. If it causes a problem then hey whatever I'll go with a twin disc I don't care. It's not like I will be launching this thing all that much anyways.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 09:05 PM

I think i would just get the steal smfw now, rather then later. Faster revs is always nice.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 09:13 PM

Idk we will see, I eventually want to throw my AAN motor in the car after I see what the 1.8 can do.

Edit: Sorry I forgot to respond about the intercooler. I haven't used it yet, I used my eBay front mount and bought this right before I blew the motor. It looks nice though lol.

Crispy222

10-16-2011, 09:14 PM

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 09:14 PM

You must really love your car.

Turbwhistle

10-16-2011, 09:15 PM

This, also i think the steel lwfw is best.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 09:22 PM

If this car is daily driven at all, any travel/stop and go, you will not want a twin disk. Get the FX400 240mm.

I have a R/T Charger I daily drive so that isn't too much of an issue, I do know that the 240mm upgrade can withstand good number so that is another great option. I would of went with a 240 to begin with (beating myself now for not biting the bullet) but I just really didn't want to spend $1100 at the time since I still have other things to buy and I thought the motor was going to be in the car by now. Since I have all the parts I need now I could sell the clutch I suppose and buy the CM400 240mm but like I said we will see. Parts change, minds change, and the numbers in the bank account change.

I don't mind changing the clutch next year at all I just don't want to commute in a RWD Charger to work that is 103 miles there and back in the snow. So as long as the clutch holds up till spring that's fine with me.

Turbo Nerd

10-16-2011, 09:25 PM

If I didn't love my car I would of dumped it in the worst part of Detroit and made an insurance claim [:)].

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 04:31 AM

Nice!

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 04:47 AM

idk how you guys are spending $7k on a 2871 build lol.

I have around $8k in my car, the way it sits.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 04:59 AM

you should look into a Comp turbo, instead of a PTE

jaychen

10-17-2011, 06:49 AM

Why what's up with yours?

It's coming, slowly but surely.

The fact I don't actually know what caused all of this has me a bit worried. I was hoping after getting a new sensor it would at least fire but I guess I will just start pulling the motor now.

Yeh mine will be slow, im a student. Hoping to have it done by Christmas atleast..

Turbo Nerd

10-17-2011, 09:05 AM

5857;6949995']idk how you guys are spending $7k on a 2871 build lol.

I have around $8k in my car, the way it sits.

I have $3600 into it the way it sits. What ever the previous owner spent that's on him I bought the car for $5700.

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 09:24 AM

I think $7000 for a gt28 build is reasonable. The kits sold are between 3500-5000, then supporting mods get the price up there. How do you like your 5857? I think when i figure out my build, i will go with that.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 09:27 AM

I hucked the 5857 (and PTE turbos in general) in favor of a Comp CT4-6262. The Comp spools about 500 rpms slower than the 5857, and about 500rpms faster then the PTE6262 and makes more power than the PTE6262.

Comp turbos fucking win hard in my book. I don't think I'll ever get anything else.

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 09:30 AM

So its a no go on the 5857?

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 09:40 AM

Comp makes a 5857 [:)]

I'd go with that. I bet that thing would spool faster than a 30R and make almost 35R power.

flynnr

10-17-2011, 10:23 AM

5857;6950728']I hucked the 5857 (and PTE turbos in general) in favor of a Comp CT4-6262. The Comp spools about 500 rpms slower than the 5857, and about 500rpms faster then the PTE6262 and makes more power than the PTE6262.

Comp turbos fucking win hard in my book. I don't think I'll ever get anything else.

how many have you used personally? i bet before you bought the precision turbo's you thought they were the bees knees too - just sayin that people can have bad luck with any company - and you seem to be jumping onto the bandwagon of the turbo company you purchased without running it for a few months on your car with no issue. numbers on a website mean nothing if the car is sitting in the garage

also - how many people on the forums have these on their car? you should post up some build threads id like to look into them! (i'm looking for a bigger turbo for next summer, and want to get some real world experience / numbers from a4's before i buy something)

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 11:52 AM

I had 3 Precision turbos. Two 5857s and a 6262. I ran PTE turbos for more than a year. and they were so unreliable that I only put a little over 3k miles on my car between having them rebuilt and just not driving it because they burned oil. I had the first 5857 rebuilt twice, then when the second one started blowing oil and needed rebuilt, I just got the 6262. It started leaking oil, so I had it rebuilt and I sold it.

Comp is a very popular turbo company. They're hugely popular in really high horsepower camps, i.e, supra communities, V8 drag cars, race cars, ect.

If you had any idea how much better my car is to drive with this Comp 6262 vs my PTE 6262, you'd be hoping on my "bandwagon" also.

My PTE 6262 w/ .63 A/R turbine seen 27psi @ 5.3k rpms. I seen positive pressure at 3k rpms.

The Comp 6262 w/ .82 A/R turbine sees 27psi @ 4.8k rpms. I see positive pressure at 2.1k rpms.

with a turbo this large (700+hp), making it spool 500rpms faster, with a larger turbine housing, is a huge testament to Comp.

I am NOT a bandwagon jumper. This turbo is of the same build quality as my brothers EFR, and this comp even has less drag in the bearing system, vs his EFR.

Im not going to post anymore about this in the OPs thread, it doesn't need cluttered. I have a thread in the B6 section. if you have a question, feel free to post in there.

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 11:53 AM

I think i will stick to the precision, or maybe a gtx30r. I would like something people have used so i can get some help from more knowledgeable people.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 11:56 AM

LMFAO whatever. It's your money. Not like I fucking what you do with it, or do to your car. I guess I didn't build or tune my car myself. I must not know anything. *sigh*

One can dream though.

ohhh!!! wait... that's right! I did build my car and tune it myself. [facepalm]

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 11:59 AM

Maybe that is why you went through so many turbos. Maybe......

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 12:00 PM

Maybe that is why you went through so many turbos. Maybe......

lmao you're not even worth the time.

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 12:07 PM

I am not trying to be a dick, its just that maybe you should leave the tuning to the pro's.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 12:15 PM

lol tuning is now where near as hard as everyone makes it out to be. If you actually knew anything about how an EFI system works, you would know that too. I have read a couple books that deal with Bosch Motronic systems specifically, and also a few books about performance tuning. It's not all black magic. I don't know, maybe actually having above average reading comprehension skills helps. I only see 4% fuel correction at part throttle and WOT. That's better than the factory tune.

BTW, the tune has nothing to do with the turbos leaking. If you knew how any of that shit works, you wouldn't have even thought that. It's the shitty ring seals that PTE uses.

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 12:52 PM

5857;6951247']lol tuning is now where near as hard as everyone makes it out to be. If you actually knew anything about how an EFI system works, you would know that too. I have read a couple books that deal with Bosch Motronic systems specifically, and also a few books about performance tuning. It's not all black magic. I don't know, maybe actually having above average reading comprehension skills helps. I only see 4% fuel correction at part throttle and WOT. That's better than the factory tune.

BTW, the tune has nothing to do with the turbos leaking. If you knew how any of that shit works, you wouldn't have even thought that. It's the shitty ring seals that PTE uses. You never told us why the precision turbos were bad, so how do you expect me to know. Turbos can go bad because of tunes, and just because you read a few books does not make you an expert. There are plenty of people that like there precision turbos.

1NaudiA4

10-17-2011, 01:01 PM

Sorry but I've never heard of a turbo going bad because of a tune. Unless its a turbo meant for diesel's like holset where they are not meant to be subject to extreme EGT's. The only thing related to a tune that can really destroy a turbo is if you have anti-lag or launch control.

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 01:05 PM

Pretty sure to much boost can kill a turbo.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 01:09 PM

You never told us why the precision turbos were bad so how do you expect me to know.

So you can't read or google? EVERY platform has horror stories of PTE turbos.

Turbos can go bad because of tunes

lmao. The more you know

and just because you read a few books does not make you an expert. There are plenty of people that like there precision turbos.

did I ever claim to be an expert??? no. I just have WAY more of a understanding of how the system works than you do. And that's very apparent. The people that like PTE turbos are allowed. I never said they shouldn't, I just stated what has happened to me, with 3 of their products.

What are you running again??? Probably nothing larger than a 2871, or even the stock turbo.

Sorry but I've never heard of a turbo going bad because of a tune. Unless its a turbo meant for diesel's like holset where they are not meant to be subject to extreme EGT's. The only thing related to a tune that can really destroy a turbo is if you have anti-lag or launch control.

EXACTLY. Another thing that could cause accelerated wear on the turbo is if you run the car extremely lean. But you would be more likely to melt a piston before something would happen to the turbo.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 01:10 PM

Pretty sure to much boost can kill a turbo.

well I'm happy that you're "pretty sure" about that. FYI, PTE turbos are designed to run at very high boost pressures, i.e., 30psi+

So there goes that theory.

1NaudiA4

10-17-2011, 01:12 PM

Pretty sure to much boost can kill a turbo.

Yeah on a little K03/K04 which would be way out of its efficiency range, and none the less boost pressure doesn't have anything to do with the tune. When someone says tune their talking about fueling and timing not turning a little knob to turn up the boost.

My engine will blow up way before my turbo blows up from running too much boost.

You still have a lot to learn son...[facepalm]

Anyways, lets not clutter TurboNerds build thread with irrelevant info. Keep it related to his build.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 01:15 PM

1NaudiA4, How do you like the IE V1 cams? I'm really interested in getting a set to replace what I have.

1NaudiA4

10-17-2011, 01:19 PM

5857;6951455']1NaudiA4, How do you like the IE V1 cams? I'm really interested in getting a set to replace what I have.

Buy mine!

I loved them, absolutely crazy top end power with not too much of a sacrifice down low. On top of that they have a wild lope at idle.

1NaudiA4

10-17-2011, 01:22 PM

TurboNerd, I'm going to vote that you scrap that stock dual mass flywheel. After they accumulate a lot of miles the membrane on the inside starts to wear out. Mine had twice the amount of play as was allowed by Benley. I think they're pretty hard to resurface properly as well because of the membrane thing.

Seerlah

10-17-2011, 01:25 PM

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii205/lassie_faire/GIF%20central/Eating%20Popcorn/a23us4jpg.gif

Turbowhistle, you're barking up the wrong tree. There is a lot you can learn from Dan, along with many other forum members. I've seen him help many people on this forum board, and he will more than likely help me out to when I run into issues (later).

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 01:31 PM

For one, i never said i new anything, i was asking questions then dan got made because i said i would rather have a precision or gtx over the pte. I came in here to look at turbo nerds build and ask questions...to learn. I simply said that maybe you should let the pro's do the tuning and that your not an expert. You may know a lot more about the this then me, but you act like you can set up a car as well as a pro, which i doubt. Also, when i was saying a tune can kill a turbo, i was thinking of k03's and k04's. When you say i need to read/ search google for what is wrong with the turbos, i don't see why i needed to why it takes to seconds for you to type it. Different problems can occur as with everything. You act like i am a mind reader. I have no experience with any of these turbo's like you do, i do know how how much boost they can handle. Yet, i never said i did, i simply said a tune can kill a turbo, which in the case of a k03/k04 which i am used to talking about, it can. Yea, i am a k03 car, i have had my car since april, and i think the fact that i know as much as i do is decent. I only hope one day i can be as knowledgeable as Dan. I hope that i can tune my own car, and blow a bunch of turbos. This is why i am in thread like this, to find out which turbo i should go with when i start buying my stuff. See, which set ups work best, how much$$$, power made, and how enjoyable the car is after. I personally would rather buy one turbo and call it a day, rather then waste a few thousand buying turbos.

Now, i think we should stop cluttering up this thread with shit. If you have anything else to discuss with me, pm me or say it in my build thread which is in my sig.

Dan[FN]6262

10-17-2011, 02:03 PM

I don't think you understand. I'm posting about the issues that I've had with PTE turbos so that it is documented. I do this so that people can better make their own decision on what they want. I've wasted so much money in shipping and rebuilds that it would have been cheaper in the first place to have just gotten a different turbo than a PTE.

Everytime PTE rebuilt it, they told me that they had fixed the ring seal issues. Then the turbo would leak again. So obviously they had not properly addressed it. I spent many hours on the phone with Wes, the tech at PTE, talking about different ways to combat this issue. We decided that running a large restrictor might help. And all that did was delay the inevitable.

I post about mistakes I have made, and money I have wasted so that no one else has to deal with the bullshit that I have.

Turbwhistle

10-17-2011, 06:32 PM

I think i will stick to the precision, or maybe a gtx30r. I would like something people have used so i can get some help from more knowledgeable people.
When i said this, i said it wrong. I meant to say more people that are knowledgeable about the turbo. I didn't mean it as if you were not knowledgeable, my fault, i said it wrong to start with. If i get a certain turbo, i would like a lot of people to ask there opinions about a problem i may run into. Say i got the comp turbo, and i ran into an issue. Lets say you were on vacation and you are the only person i know to ask about this turbo, i would be stuck. I would rather go with something that a lot of people have so when/if an issue comes up, i don't need to search for someone to ask the question to. Also, i thought i posted this like 4 hours ago, but i forgot to hit post. sorry.

Seerlah

10-21-2011, 12:29 PM

I forget, why is it you blew a rod(s)?

jaychen

10-21-2011, 04:55 PM

Updates?

Turbo Nerd

10-21-2011, 10:53 PM

I forget, why is it you blew a rod(s)?

My thoughts were running too lean from a dying S4 fuel pump. Previous owner bought a used B5 S4 fuel from VAST for some stupid reason idk. When I bought the car it was slow, misfiring and pushing 10 psi. I fixed boost leaks, changed some things, lemmi-winked it a bit and the car was running pretty good pushing like 18-19 psi. It still was misfiring up top in 3rd and most of 4th (yes I changed the obvious), even tried a 4 bar FPR and a 5 bar FPR and it still was running lean. I had a Walbro 255 the whole time but was too lazy to change it because it was in the single digits at the time in winter. So yeah lol.

Updates?

Not yet, I worked 63 hours this week so I can't really do too much during the weekdays. Tomorrow I plan on getting the motor assembled, I have to pick up my new oil pump, pilot bearing, and turbo to manifold gasket (I guess the parts guy at Audi missed it). Sunday I hope to have it in the car (crosses my fingers), only if I have time to remove my steering rack and get a new one. If I can get those things done this weekend I'll be very happy but I'm not trying to rush things as I don't want to overlook anything. I'm sure there's going to be something stupid I'm missing that will be forced to wait till next week but we shall see.

I'll have pictures up tomorrow of whatever I do.

Turbo Nerd

10-22-2011, 11:22 PM

Well...... ugh..

Time got cut short due to I had my oil squirters at the shop. So I'm like ok, I'll just dissemble my old motor and get them out of there. Removed the oil pan and there was so much fucking shit in there omg, my rod took out the oil pump, the squirter, both sides of the block, so much garbage on my pick up screen.... unbelievable. I didn't snap any pics since I did it outside and there wasn't that much lighting.

Still did some shit, installed my piston rings, installed the ARP main studs, plasti-gauged the main bearings (all within .02 -.04), checked axial clearance (within .07 - 0.23), checked ring to groove clearance, and blah blah blah. Just a bunch of measuring checking clearances.

So found myself spending $48 at Harbor Freight, $43 at Vatozone, $120 at ECS, $100 at MJMAutohaus, $7 at eBay, and I think that's it. I don't really want to name off what I bought but nothing really exciting, just odds and ends that add up quick. So plan is tomorrow head to the shop and get my oil squirters to finish at least getting the bottom end in.

Oh yea I need a AWM oil pan if anyone has one laying around, if not I'll get a brand new one from eBay for $74 shipped (pretty cheap).... I'd just rather give the money to somebody on here so I thought I'd ask before I ordered one.

Few pics I guess.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/ab498ecd.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/3cef6628.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/d81aa173.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/dd8232e8.jpg

http://cdn1.hark.com/images/000/007/428/7428/original.0

jaychen

10-22-2011, 11:23 PM

What brand torque wrench is that?

How do you like it? I need a new one

Turbo Nerd

10-22-2011, 11:30 PM

Matco ETWB100F and I love it..... my pride and joy, my baby till the end, my uhhh my bad...

Turbo Nerd

10-22-2011, 11:42 PM

Oh yea quick story (ok kind of long but funny) from Autozone.

Mainly went there to pick up a E12 socket but I got the lucas assembly lube and 5 qts of Autozone non detergent 30w oil. So I go to the cashier and I'm talking to my cousin about something (he's giving me a hand) and the guy goes "I think he knows what he's talking about since he went to UTI".... I had my VW UTI shirt on from school and he said that to my cousin. I said the funny thing is that we went there together 3 years ago and he's like yea I went to MMI or Wyotech I don't remember.

So then since he's so smart, he says "So what do you guys need these things for? For an air compressor?". I'm puzzled on how he thought of that but I said no I'm building my car. He asked what kind and what are you doing and what turbo blah blah..... He then says "Yea my mom has an A4 and it has so much turbo lag it's unreal". Then he says "Yea I raced a Audi TT and it was twin turbo (I'm assuming he thought it has twins since it's a TT lol), and I smoked it with my 350Z". As I was walking out "I said cool story bro, when my motor is broken in I'll come back and run your dump you call a car".

The whole time my cousin was crying of laughter.... Thought it was pretty funny myself too.

jaychen

10-22-2011, 11:48 PM

hmmm,

We have some stupid people in Australia but when kids talk about their 'moms' car and shit, all i imagine is a skinny little white boy that knows nothing about cars and is probably a jump shifter.. im sure you know the type.

Turbo Nerd

10-22-2011, 11:52 PM

Lol oh yea we have those too.

Turbo Nerd

10-23-2011, 10:43 PM

So got the blocks side by side for comparison and maybe ran into a problem but hopefully not.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/79e2ccbd.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/9abd0552.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/f471f254.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/0bbf9b64.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/fefa3083.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/bc803df1.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/28ff0f2b.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/c13dda38.jpg

This is where I hope I don't have a problem but on my new motor I don't threads for whatever mounts there (cyl 2 shouldn't be hard to miss). Other than that everything else looks good unless you can see something that I can't.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/4e85792c.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/18c82c3f.jpg

Here's both the block codes.

Old: 06A 10321 (AWM)
New: 06A 021C (AUM from research?)

And here's that b*tch that told me f*ck you I'm outta here.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/6feee3b7.jpg

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks fellas.

Martin.

Crispy222

10-24-2011, 08:35 PM

Mexico.. Ah Oh?!?!?

Turbo Nerd

10-24-2011, 10:18 PM

Yea lol my car will be half Mexican [facepalm].

Anyways I'm not worried about that missing mount for whatever goes there. Had to order a new oil pan ($91 brand new), front main seal flange (mine cracked), and 2 oil jets/squirters. Found the flange used on eBay (no way I'm spending $165 on a new one) and used oil squirters (again almost $40 each). $18 for the flange and I offered $13 a piece for the squirters (wanted $19.99).

Made a order with ECS. Oil cooler o-ring, thermostat o-ring, thermostat, pilot bearing, turbo oil return line gasket, upper turbo oil line gasket, oil pump chain tensioner, turbo to manifold gasket, oil pressure sender, green CTS, cabin air filter, Audi silicone, new exhaust mani stud and locking nuts, water pump bolts, 1.8 valve stem caps ([cool]LOL).

Ordered a new oil pump and pick up tube from MJM for $100 shipped.

Need to make an order for a o2 bung for the wideband, and that's it for now but I'm sure something else will come up that I will need to buy.... never fucking ends. It's ok when all said and done I will have a brand new built motor.

Seerlah

10-24-2011, 10:51 PM

Damn, I have an oil pump with new chain I would have sold you for like $50 (you can cancel your order if you still can, and I'll ship you mine with new chain. you need to keep the tensioner you ordered). Then you could have picked up the pick up tube for like $20 at the stealership. Also, don't be surprised if this happens. MJM is going to send you the wrong pick up tube with the oil pump. Ask me how I know[>_>]. Well it may fit on the AMU block, but not the AWM block they have it listed for on their website. They do funny sh*t like that sometimes. Like sending you a B6 A4 primary 02 sensor because it's the back up one when they are out of stock. I don't think they know the connectors are different, yet the sensors are the same (little dremeling fixes that issue).

So yeah, I have a brand new OEM oil pump, new chain, and pick up tube with o-ring from MJM. Decided not to replace oil pump, and the pick up tube was useless. Waste of $100. Ended up having to ask a freind for a ride to the dealership 20 some miles away for a pick up tube (car on jack stands dismantled), when I clearly ordered it to avoid that situation.

Turbo Nerd

10-24-2011, 11:31 PM

lol if I would of known then for sure I would of bought it off you, it's to bad it was shipped today [:(]. What else do you have that you aren't using or don't need?

While I was about to order the oil pan my heart dropped and got the chills, I ran in the garage and brought both my oil pans in my basement to compare them and make sure it would fit. I'm weird like that even thought I scanned through the blocks for like 40 minutes to make sure everything is good (other than that threaded bolt hole). I need to clean my head probably tomorrow if I get off work at a decent time, and change a valve or two.

Seerlah

10-24-2011, 11:41 PM

If it uses the same oil pan as the one from the AWM block, I'm just saying don't be surpirsed if the pick up tube is too long (compare it to the short snub one on our vehicle). The pan won't be able to bolt back on if it is too long. But the pump itself looks to be the correct one. Not saying that is going to happen with ou, but that's what happened to me. If that does happen, maybe you can get a full refund and then purchase mine[;)]. You will have a litle more downtime, but you will be saving a couple dollars.

Also, what are you using to lube your bearings?

Turbo Nerd

10-24-2011, 11:46 PM

Will do sir thanks.

Seerlah

10-24-2011, 11:47 PM

No problem[cool]

Turbo Nerd

10-24-2011, 11:51 PM

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/f73b6f98.jpg?t=1319525437

Turbo Nerd

10-24-2011, 11:54 PM

Oil is obviously for break in. I plan on doing 100 miles then a 3rd gear pull with boost (10-12 psi idk yet) to about 6200 and let the engine break, change the oil and drive for another 500 or so miles then switch to Rotella T6.

Seerlah

10-25-2011, 12:00 AM

No, I meant for the bearings. The picture answered that question, but I remember people using some type of oil (can't recall, hence the question) instead of assembly lube.

Turbo Nerd

10-25-2011, 12:16 AM

This is what it says on the bottle (not saying that I believe it but Lucas is some pretty good stuff).

-Use to pre lube bearings, cams, lifters, valve train.
-Prevents seizing, galling and scuffing.
-Compatible with all oils.
-Super slick and tacking.
-Easy to use (lol wow)

Edit:

Excellent Rust Inhibitor
Excellent for long term storage

SeekB00st

10-26-2011, 03:21 AM

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/f73b6f98.jpg?t=1319525437

Is that the stuff that you use to get the air compressor going?

Turbo Nerd

11-06-2011, 10:54 PM

Been busy the last few weeks with work and other things, was waiting on more parts also so got those in. I'll let the pictures do the talking I guess....

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/c6b8fb25.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/806b4ff3.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/6f07c578.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/199b4202.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/898498d0.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/c94d2f54.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/41f4f64b.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/80675714.jpg

I asked my little brother to give me a garbage bag so I can cover the motor and he brings me this lolll.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/fba0405a.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/305f933a.jpg

That's it until next weekend. Plan for next weekend is swap a few valves, install the head on the block, put on the timing belt/accessories, and put in the clutch. I don't think the motor will be in next week because I have lots of other things to do Saturday but Sunday I will be working on it.

jaychen

11-07-2011, 05:45 AM

coming along very nicely mate.

Got to love building the engine in the kitchen lol.

You really are buying new everything.

Wanted to ask, as for torque and tolerances.. what book are you going off (haynes, internet pdf, other manual?) ?

There is a huge possibility that my engine builder will be shutting over christmas, in which case I will take matters in to my own hands. I want my car running before new years.

Turbo Nerd

11-07-2011, 09:03 AM

Thanks.

Build is happening in my kitchen but the one in my basement lol.

Pretty much everything is new as far as the block is concerned.

I'm using the PDF on socals4 for clearances and such. ARP bolts/studs are torqued to there specs, flywheel bolts and crank bolt are going to be torqued to OEM, everything else is good n tight as the Germans say.

Crispy222

11-07-2011, 11:39 AM

Shits lookin' good.

I used the Bentley manual for more of the small bolts when I put together my motor. Like you said, ARP specs on their studs, but also the DIY motor/engine build thread has a good source of specs also for torque and procedure.

jaychen

11-28-2011, 09:01 PM

Whats progress like? Updates?

nunya

11-28-2011, 09:48 PM

5857;6951579']I don't think you understand. I'm posting about the issues that I've had with PTE turbos so that it is documented. I do this so that people can better make their own decision on what they want. I've wasted so much money in shipping and rebuilds that it would have been cheaper in the first place to have just gotten a different turbo than a PTE.

Everytime PTE rebuilt it, they told me that they had fixed the ring seal issues. Then the turbo would leak again. So obviously they had not properly addressed it. I spent many hours on the phone with Wes, the tech at PTE, talking about different ways to combat this issue. We decided that running a large restrictor might help. And all that did was delay the inevitable.

I post about mistakes I have made, and money I have wasted so that no one else has to deal with the bullshit that I have.

I know i am late posting this and havent read the entire thread..... but Dan come on. You run threw turbo's like hell and just fucked up a a new head cause you said fuck it lets crank it with the timing belt tension wrong. Dont steal a thread with you being on your comp high horse, this is silly.

--dillon

nunya

11-28-2011, 09:49 PM

Whats progress like? Updates?

+1

viceprp

11-29-2011, 05:04 AM

Dan[FN]6262

11-29-2011, 06:34 AM

I know i am late posting this and havent read the entire thread..... but Dan come on. You run threw turbo's like hell and just fucked up a a new head cause you said fuck it lets crank it with the timing belt tension wrong. Dont steal a thread with you being on your comp high horse, this is silly.

--dillon

I'm hardly riding a "Comp high horse", and this head wasn't new, I built it from everything already had laying around. and if you had actually read my post in my build thread, it wasn't like I just don't give a shit. I know i didnt post a time frame in my thread, but i had went inside and got caught up doing electrical work for almost 3 hours and then went back out to the garage. and I've "ran threw" turbos like hell because they were shitty PTE turbos. PTE can't find a decent Chinese ring seal to save their fucking life. other than the time the CHRA housing just randomly cracked apart on my first 5857. yeah, tell ya what, they're building and manufacturing quailty is really up there [up]

Click on the link in my sig and come to your own conclusion.

I don't know why you think you have any room to talk, you paid 034 to build your car, and you still managed to throw a rod while cruising down the highway.

jaychen

11-29-2011, 06:42 AM

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii205/lassie_faire/GIF%20central/Eating%20Popcorn/a23us4jpg.gif

Dan[FN]6262

11-29-2011, 06:46 AM

now I wanna watch Thriller.

jaychen

11-29-2011, 06:56 AM

i actually did after posting that

nunya

11-29-2011, 07:02 AM

5857;7063921']I'm hardly riding a "Comp high horse", and this head wasn't new, I built it from everything already had laying around. and if you had actually read my post in my build thread, it wasn't like I just don't give a shit. I know i didnt post a time frame in my thread, but i had went inside and got caught up doing electrical work for almost 3 hours and then went back out to the garage. and I've "ran threw" turbos like hell because they were shitty PTE turbos. PTE can't find a decent Chinese ring seal to save their fucking life. other than the time the CHRA housing just randomly cracked apart on my first 5857. yeah, tell ya what, they're building and manufacturing quailty is really up there [up]

Click on the link in my sig and come to your own conclusion.

I don't know why you think you have any room to talk, you paid 034 to build your car, and you still managed to throw a rod while cruising down the highway.

I am not thread jacking about my comp turbo, blah, blah (have you even got the car running with it BTW?).... Interesting read in your sig. I will be sure to take pics when (not if) mine fails. FWIW i have killed many Garrett's (i think i am up to 5, mostly Elim's) and can dig up articles much like this on their turbo's. There is more to me throwing that rod then i will post on forums.

you paid 034 to build your car

http://files.sharenator.com/Haters_Gonna_Hate_MegaDump_2-s450x530-111532-580.jpg

--dillon

Turbo Nerd

12-03-2011, 05:40 AM

It's been slow motion since the last time I updated. Plan on getting some stuff done today and tomorrow hopefully..... today's goals are to install the new rack and axles, clean up the head a bit and swap a few valves and cams. Then come home and bring up the block which will be heavy as shit walking up the stairs. I also have to buy new freeze plugs and install them, I took them out when I dissembled the motor. I did a search and couldn't find out what size they are and who sells them. I'm sure the dealer can get them but those guys are idiots and every time I go there I pretty much do their job for them by using ETKA. If there's any local parts place that sells them I could remove my old freeze plugs and match them up I guess but I don't want to have any problems.

If I can get this stuff done today then I'm hoping the motor will be in the car tomorrow.

jaychen

12-03-2011, 06:03 AM

Look forward to more pictures.

Dan[FN]6262

12-03-2011, 10:32 AM

I am not thread jacking about my comp turbo, blah, blah (have you even got the car running with it BTW?).... Interesting read in your sig. I will be sure to take pics when (not if) mine fails. FWIW i have killed many Garrett's (i think i am up to 5, mostly Elim's) and can dig up articles much like this on their turbo's. There is more to me throwing that rod then i will post on forums.

I didn't have any intentions of "jacking" the thread, I just was telling the OP my experience and of other options. I actually had planned on buying a new DBB PTE from ringer racing until the PTE tech tried to fuck me around with my rebuild. It was their customer service that turned me off to them.

Yes, I ran the car for a few weeks, maybe even a month (LOL) with the Comp before the valve vs. piston battle royal happened. I didn't hunt down and "dig up" that article just to bash PTE turbos. Charlie (Audi Skate Snow) actually posted it in my build thread. While reading that, you have to keep in mind that the people doing the turbo tear down are Garrett vendors, and it is obvious which they prefer. Just like when they said about how Ceramic ball bearings are not a good bearing for turbo use. If that were true, why would Pratt and Whitney use them in their Turbine Jet engines? lol.

Turbo Nerd

12-03-2011, 05:56 PM

Took the axles out and got new ones, and got the rack out and have to order a new one Monday. I could probably put new seals in this rack but I don't want to take the chance of having it leak again since it's such a bitch to get out it with the motor in the car, trying to replace everything I can while the motor is out. Got the head apart and changed the exhaust lifters, the intake ones looked flawless so I left those but the exhaust ones had those punch marks so I replaced them with the ones from my other head, also swapped the cams with the good ones. The cam chain tensioner was replaced with a new OE unit by the previous owner which I'm glad because they are expensive.

Need to shoot to the dealer Monday and pick up an axle bolt (one was stripped I'm glad I got it out), the oil dipstick tube (metal one that goes into the block), rear coolant flange (just for piece of mind) and have to find some oil galley plugs or whatever they are. That's about it till tomorrow, I don't want's in store for tomorrow maybe lightly tint my tail lights and respray my front bumper. I'll keep you guys posted, I should be updating this more and more sooner than before.

Seerlah

12-03-2011, 06:04 PM

http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=63434&title=fs-3a-oem-power-steering-rack&cat=49

Turbo Nerd

12-03-2011, 08:35 PM

Yea there's no way I'm spending $700 on a rack. I got a shop account with these guys that I deal with all the time with steering racks and axles so I'm getting one for $180. Thanks for the find though.

Seerlah

12-03-2011, 09:22 PM

lol

I always knew racks were expensive, and would not pay that much either. I would source my own out, but not sure if I would be able to get a quality one for $180. But on topic, nice to see things coming along. And have fun dragging that engine up the stairs.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a40/Hecubus1080/TV%20Movie%20Music/Waterboy_2.jpg

jaychen

12-03-2011, 09:54 PM

The block without the head on is very light..

Use your muscles mate lol

Turbo Nerd

12-03-2011, 11:16 PM

Lol nice picture. I'm sure I won't have too big of problem bringing it upstairs as I will leave it on the engine stand and have someone else grab an end. I'm kind of mad even thought I had the block wrapped up with a garbage bag and had oil around the cylinder walls one of the walls started to slightly show minimal rust. I will probably run through it quick with a dingle berry hone to clean it up a bit. Man that shit ticks me off it's always something stupid holding me back from moving on to the next step. I think I ordered 5 different times from vendors, 2 trips to the dealer, and I'll have to order a few more bullshit things from the dealer and probably online. When the fuck does it end?

Seerlah

12-04-2011, 05:58 PM

When the fuck does it end?

When you are flying up the street sitting happy in your grown man booster seat (pun) [drive].

nunya

12-04-2011, 06:32 PM

5857;7076395']I didn't have any intentions of "jacking" the thread, I just was telling the OP my experience and of other options. I actually had planned on buying a new DBB PTE from ringer racing until the PTE tech tried to fuck me around with my rebuild. It was their customer service that turned me off to them.

Yes, I ran the car for a few weeks, maybe even a month (LOL) with the Comp before the valve vs. piston battle royal happened. I didn't hunt down and "dig up" that article just to bash PTE turbos. Charlie (Audi Skate Snow) actually posted it in my build thread. While reading that, you have to keep in mind that the people doing the turbo tear down are Garrett vendors, and it is obvious which they prefer. Just like when they said about how Ceramic ball bearings are not a good bearing for turbo use. If that were true, why would Pratt and Whitney use them in their Turbine Jet engines? lol.

I hear ya and am honestly interested in your experience with that turbo. I havent seen much about them or many on VAG cars. Having been through so many turbo's myself its hard to say if i trust any manufacturer at this point. I still think only time will tell with any of these folks. I think it may be a bit early to write off PTE just yet, but i could likely be wrong. Its happened many times before :-)

--dillon

Turbo Nerd

12-04-2011, 06:43 PM

Haha yea I hope so.

Today I went to the shop to put the head together. I was getting frustrated with timing the cams because these damn supertech valve springs have a way higher spring rate than the stock ones and it was tough to turn the cams. I've replaced tensioners many times on these motors and it always gives me problems even with the tensioner tool from Audi, shit pisses me off. So I just left it alone and decided it was time to call it a day before I started throwing important things at the brick wall.

On to other news I'm picking up a AEB this week for $200 with bent valves. I'm not sure if I want to resistor the VVT out or put mine in, any pros or cons with either setup? Plan is to strip it down send it to the machine shop to get it hot tanked, decked and have them install new valve guides, then I will buy supertech inconel valves and swap my springs and retainers in there along with Integrated cams. Not sure if I want to port the heads and go +1mm oversized valves. I'll then put on the AEB when that is complete and I have a new manifold and turbo sitting on it waiting to go in. It should be a very big gain in power doing it this way.

I probably won't start building the head until I have the car running and broken in because I don't want to start dumping money somewhere else since it's really not needed right now. I didn't take any pictures since I didn't think it was anything serious just a plain jane head getting put together.

Seerlah

12-04-2011, 06:52 PM

From the general consensus, it is better to have VVT. Since you are going to be rocking the IE cams, just swap over your AWM CCT.

Turbo Nerd

12-04-2011, 07:00 PM

Sounds good to me.

I posted on Integrated facebook and asked when they were getting the AGU valve cover back in stock. He said he will try to find out from there supplier but I haven't heard anything back yet. Apparently you don't need the adapters to run the TSI/FSI coils with the AGU cover, this is what Integrated told me.

Seerlah

12-04-2011, 07:53 PM

There are a couple people on this forum board running the FSI coils with no adapters with no issue. The adapters are to just make them sit more flush. The only person on this forum board I know of to have had an issue not running the adapters was Dan[FN]5857 (but seems he had a history of fubered ignition coils). His theory was that the heat from his turbo (he has the SPA top mount, and placed the turbo rather close to the vc and ignition coils) is what was causing them to crack prematurely (issue he had was the plastic running down the shaft of the coil was basically splitting in half). I have not looked back on that thread. But last time I looked at it he was using a heat sheild to try to counteract it, if his thoery was indeed true (here is thread if you want to read it. it is actually pretty entertaining (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/435452-MkVI-Ignition-Coils-are-the-Bomb!?highlight=)). Maybe he'll chimme in and give his take on it. But yeah, you don't really need those adapters. And the IE ones are cheaper than INA ones, which I am sure you know. Ringer Racing actually has the best package deal I have seen so far.

http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=287&categoryId=-1

Dan[FN]6262

12-05-2011, 04:19 AM

My coils stopped exploding after I narrowed my issue down to the primary O2. ME7 sure is insane how it will try to cope with things. lol sometimes I wish I had ME5 (total sarcasm [:p]) way too much to explain. short version:

- O2 going bad (when they go bad they start to read lean under any load)
- ECU would dump fuel to try to correct for lean condition
- in reality there was no lean condition, wideband gauge would give the correct AFR reading, which showed the car running a 9.6 under WOT. it ran so rich that it would actually misfire and throw fireballs.
- ME7 would crank up the coil dwell on the ignition coils to try to scave off the misfires.
- a few WOT pulls with the coil dwell maxed out would essentially melt the ignition coils from inside out

and that would cause coils to just pull apart, like so

http://i.imgur.com/fDLOW.jpg

I have pics on my computer of the MKVI coils starting to bubble before they burst.

but since I got it sorted out, I did some actual back to back comparisons with the MKVI coils vs stock vs bolt down, and the MKVI coils win in every aspect. also tested like 6 different plugs and found that Bosch F5DP0R plugs are the shit. Accidentally ran 40+psi with those on the Comp and had zero misfires.

Seerlah

12-05-2011, 08:04 AM

Crispy222

12-05-2011, 09:16 AM

Let me know if you need the part numbers for the freeze and oil galley plugs. I can find them when I get home from work today. I bought mine from ECS on a big parts order when I built my motor.

Dan[FN]6262

12-05-2011, 09:39 AM

Not to thread jack, but how long do those plugs last before needing replacement?

And to stay on topic, walkytalky_20 said he did not see a difference in his mileage with the FSI coils. But he is running the stock turbo, so not sure the difference on BT applications. But I am sure the throttle response much be much better.

they're platinum plugs, so roughly every 30k or so miles. Probably will outlast my engine LOLOLOL. and IDK about fuel efficiency, I can't help but to lay into my car when I drive it. But yeah, throttle response, part throttle, and idle were way sharper/smoother with these plugs and MKVI coils

Turbo Nerd

12-07-2011, 11:00 AM

Let me know if you need the part numbers for the freeze and oil galley plugs. I can find them when I get home from work today. I bought mine from ECS on a big parts order when I built my motor.

Yes part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

nunya

12-07-2011, 11:07 AM

It's likely the 07K 905 715F coils. I ran the F5DP0R's as well. They are nice but i switched back to the F6DTC's.

--dillon

Crispy222

12-07-2011, 02:23 PM

Yes part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

Freeze Plug, 36mm, ES274313 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES274313/ES274313/), OEM#036103113A, just one $6.30
COVER (oil galley), ES466002 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES466002/ES466002/), OEM#N01190710, 2x one for each end $0.29 per

If you removed for hot tanking the block or want new ones, these are the IM shaft bearings,
Intermediate Shaft Bearing ES10516 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES10516/ES10516/), OEM#056198521, comes as a set of two, $18.38

I bought everything new that could wear out including the clutch components, so let me know if you want those numbers too. Its about $120 total.

turbo kraut

12-07-2011, 05:46 PM

just out of curiosity, could your "lean" issue have been from running the 2871 on a k04 program?

and your going 2.0 right?

don't you think it would be better to go with a bt/2.0/head work tune v the k04 tune? why take a chance of running lean again and blowing another block?

just wondering and trying to learn..... fwiw, i have unitronics 630cc tune and have had a minor idle issue and lean code since day 1, although lavi has left them, so maybe their customer service is better.... i would go vast/revo/maestro/tapp/034(someone elses standalone)

Turbo Nerd

12-07-2011, 09:41 PM

Thanks for the P/N's that's exactly what I need.

just out of curiosity, could your "lean" issue have been from running the 2871 on a k04 program?

and your going 2.0 right?

don't you think it would be better to go with a bt/2.0/head work tune v the k04 tune? why take a chance of running lean again and blowing another block?

just wondering and trying to learn..... fwiw, i have unitronics 630cc tune and have had a minor idle issue and lean code since day 1, although lavi has left them, so maybe their customer service is better.... i would go vast/revo/maestro/tapp/034(someone elses standalone)

The car ran very well until I hit "high" boost so during break in it won't see a lot of boost so I shouldn't be misfiring at all. I have a A/F gauge and a boost controller so as long as I keep an eye on it I shouldn't have any problems this time around. I plan on breaking in the motor in 1-2 days days along with the clutch then I'll get a real tune. I know the car ran with this ECU so I'm trying to keep the same setup just incase something goes wrong I can pin point it better for instance I won't install the fuel pump until the car starts and runs, that also goes for the ECU/tune. That's my main thing I don't want to change all these parts then if the car is acting up or doesn't start/run I'll be able to diagnose it better/easier.

Also no I'm not going 2L because I plan to rev the piss out of the engine with solid lifters and cams on a built AEB head. With the change of stroke 2P I wouldn't feel safe reving 9k+ . Plus I want throw in a AAN motor in the near future but I want to experience what the 1.8 can do first hand.

Turbo Nerd

12-07-2011, 09:50 PM

Do you also by chance have the P/N for the oil dipstick tube? I need the metal one that goes into the block, I have the dipstick and the plastic tube already.

Seerlah

12-07-2011, 09:54 PM

How you plan on breaking in your engine? Many people drive the crap out of it once engine oil temp is up, while creating as much vacuum as possible. Then drain the oil, refill, then go for the little taking it easy break in. There is a rather interesting article on it (link below), and Zimbu made a thread asking about the same thing. General consensus, beat the crap out of the car on initial start for proper break in of piston rings.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/439858-Break-in-hard-or-gentle?highlight=

I would personally suggest a proper tune and upgraded fuel pump on initial start. If you are saying you don't want to change it up because you know that they work, then that makes sense. But there is still the possibility that they could have gone faulty during the time they just sat. Just for a suggestion, I would say to make your vehicle 100% then fix things from there (meaning proper tune and fueling for your system).

Just my .02

Turbo Nerd

12-07-2011, 10:13 PM

I plan to drive the car for 50-100 miles then do a 3rd gear pull to around 6k with about 12psi and let the engine brake. Change the oil then drive for normal for 400 miles. I know people drive the piss out of it and have read that article before but I'm kind of scared to do it that way. Idk we will see when it comes time. People have been telling me 30 different ways to break in the motor and I think the way I stated seems good. The first few miles to make sure the car is reacting good and then the pull with boost to seat the rings.

Dan[FN]6262

12-08-2011, 05:40 AM

lol one of my friend has a Fox Body that is his drag car toy (can't legally drive it on the road, trailers it to the track) and when he rebuilds his motor at the beginning of the season, he lets it reach operating temp, let's it idle 20 mins after operating temp, then just heads to the track LOLOLOLOL

Turbo Nerd

12-08-2011, 09:31 AM

Lol that's hilarious.

jaychen

12-15-2011, 04:49 PM

How are you traveling?

Any updates?

Turbo Nerd

12-15-2011, 08:13 PM

Only update is my head is completely done and I'm just waiting on my order from ECS to arrive so I can get those oil galley plugs in, also ordered a new thermostat housing and rear coolant flange for the head along with a couple other little odds and ends.

Went to the junk yard and got a 96 trunk and a new hazard flasher relay, got them both for $100.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/b0165dd4.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/db705f49.jpg

I didn't feel the need to take pictures of the head since it's nothing fancy but I am pulling off my cousins AEB head that he sold me this weekend and I will be dropping it off at the machine shop to have it decked and cleaned up along with have them install new valve guides. I have a side job this weekend for a member on here, we will be dissembling his motor and rebuild it. Still don't know if it's his rings or valves yet but we will be doing a compression check tomorrow night and start working on it Saturday. I will still be working on my things at the shop so it should be fun.

Oh yea, the whole car will be getting plasti-dipped for a couple reasons. I don't want to give the car a respray in the winter time, I don't want to be driving around with a bumper that is 11 different colors, and it's dirt cheap to do so why the fuck not? Flat white exterior, black roof, black wheels, black rear rings, black mirrors, with stock RS4 grille. It should look really nice and I wouldn't care to drive it in the snow but if I got a respray I'd be shitting my pants not to ruin the new paint, so that's that!

Seerlah

12-15-2011, 08:37 PM

Rebuilding that person's motor that the shop tried to rape him on like an $8,000 rebuild? And great pick up for $100.

Turbo Nerd

12-15-2011, 08:49 PM

Yup that's him. You tell me if this is a great price..... $1500 to pull the motor, build/rebuild it, and put it back in? That's just labor of course, he want's to drop in rods while he is in there and we might talk about him buying my turbo setup if he wants it.

Seerlah

12-15-2011, 08:58 PM

You want my honest opinion? It would really revolve around how much you plan on overhauling the engine.

Turbo Nerd

12-15-2011, 09:07 PM

No opinion needed but that's a hell of a lot cheaper than 8k. Not to mention it's not that much work to do this, actual time spent building a motor isn't long at all. New rings, rods, rod bearings, and oil pump is pretty much what this will consist of (unless he needs head work but we have AEB heads and spare parts for days). I don't think $1500 is cheap at all to be honest. It's more of a thrill and honor to do this, more fun than work (when things go the way they are supposed to but that never fucking happens lol). So if we could make a few extra bucks while getting another B5 back on the road than I see it's a win win situation for both parties.

Seerlah

12-15-2011, 09:16 PM

I am not saying that is a bad price. You can charge whatever you want to be honest, just like the shop that wanted $8,000. And your price is def better than his and most Euro shops. Not to mention getting payed for a hobby you enjoy is always a plus. My mechanic loves it, but ends up spending it right back on his passion. lol

I don't feel like digging through this site, but what exactly do you guys know so far is wrong with his engine? Just low compression on 2 cylinders? He's going the forged rod route?

Turbo Nerd

12-15-2011, 09:26 PM

Only thing that I know is what was posted here that we all read. The car was towed to the shop and I haven't looked at it yet, tomorrow will be a compression test. I have never used a comp tester that used %, I think VAST did a leak down test not a comp test but I could be wrong. Anyways we won't be using the information that VAST told the customer as we will be finding out what happened and what went wrong. Kind of funny I'm bumping my build thread with nonsense, maybe I'll update the thread he made if he wishes.

But yea I can't want to plasti dip and install this trunk. I can't justify buying a Euro rear S4 bumper just yet but I will get one in the spring time along with a cupra lip. Oh yea since my headlights are trash with broken tabs and a shitty balast I'm going to order some cheapo fake ecodes from the bay with a HID kit.

Seerlah

12-15-2011, 09:48 PM

Nothing wrong with Depo ecode, and nothing wrong with bumping your own thread when you really don't have any real updates. It is your thread. But I actually picked up my Valeo halogen Ecode on ebay for like $225 shipped years ago. Also picked up a Valeo Ecode Xenon set for xxx (can't recall exact), and resold them for $400 on the classified section on here for profit. Felt like a complete scumbag after doing so, and never did something like that again. Now, I try to give deals and get them at the same time. Small fixing parts I give away for free if I have it and they need it (gave away a 710n, n75, and yellow 007. I'm sure there is more).

But I remember there being like a false B5 S4 Euro rear valance on ebay. I tried to find it on ebay realy quick, but was reluctant. Or maybe too tired to put in the extra effort. But yeah, there is a valance floating around on ebay somewhere that mimics the Euro B5 S4 rear valance. It could fool many, but not people who could tell the difference between the real Euro S4 rear and a look alike.

Turbo Nerd

12-15-2011, 10:02 PM

Haha you little weasel. Depo ecodes are nice and should give me the right light output I want as well as looks without breaking the wallet. I'm pretty sure the problem that I was experiencing was the ballast on my driver side. When I would turn on the headlights the HID's would turn on and look great but after 10-20 seconds the headlight would dim and look like a shitty halogen bulb. I had terrible light output and couldn't see shit at night like I didn't have any lights on. So with new headlights and HID's I should be good to go, plan on running D2S with 4500K or 5000K 35W bulbs. I want the best light output I can get and I'm going to be pissed if I get those shitty cut-offs with these headlights. I guess I could always get the TSX lenses and do that but I don't like taking that kind of shit apart.

Seerlah

12-15-2011, 10:16 PM

What so you mean by sh*tty cutoffs? The beam from the projector is supposed to be cut off. I would also suggest the 55w bulbs and ballast if you want the best light output. I'm rocking 55w bulbs and ballast with 5000k. Great light output!

Turbo Nerd

12-15-2011, 11:33 PM

I should have phrased it differently, I want a sharp cut off like this.

http://s-seriesforum.com/albums/CorrectHID/cutoff1.jpg

As apposed to this.

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/attachments/archived-threads/20112d1045958789-hid-beam-pattern-problem-headlights-garage-resized.jpg

You get those scattered cutoffs with after markert headlights.

Seerlah

12-16-2011, 05:44 AM

For some odd reason I can adjust my beam up and down, but not left and right. Wierd!

Turbo Nerd

12-16-2011, 07:35 PM

I got a PTE 6262 for $900 shipped brand new ball bearing but I'm not sure if I want to run it. My cousin brought over his Borg Warner 80mm turbo to compare. I thought my turbo was big but apparently not, he's going to run it on his E36 M3. On to the pics.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/85db5d0d.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/447e2504.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/3e351b6d.jpg

Turbo Nerd

12-17-2011, 12:03 AM

Ordered a knockoff SPA manifold, I think my cousin (brother of the one with the M3) wants to use the PTE 6262 for his 95 S6. So I want to find a turbo that will make good power (500+) and utilize a batmowheel. My cousin's (M3) boss I guess has a Holset HX35 that needs a rebuild and will let it go for next to nothing so should I attempt to use that with the SPA mani and a batmowheel or will that turbo not fit on the SPA? I have time to decide what turbo I want to go with as like I stated before I will not change the setup without a built AEB and cams.

Also any other choices for the down pipe (except 034 or custom)? I will probably just have one made for me but if I don't want the hassle of waiting for one built I might opt for the 034 one. The oil and coolant lines I will just make myself as there's no way I'm spending $330 for the kit from 034.

I really want to try out that batmowheel, like seriously. Also I'm pretty sure I've read before (somewhere) that I can make a HX35 into a HX40 with a batmowheel. If I get a turbo that won't work with the SPA mani than no problem I'll just sell it to my cousin for his Passat done deal.

Seerlah

12-17-2011, 01:44 AM

Ditch the clone. How much it cost (seen it on Godspeed Project for $300)? There is a person selling a brand new authentic SPA manifold in the classified section for $319 shipped. He's been sitting on it for a while. You may even be able to talk him down in price a little more. Then there is the ebay route, where it looks like an unauthorised dealer (I say this because he states no lifetime warranty as autohorized dealers do. but I can be wrong and you can be entitled to a lifetime warranty) is selling them for $325.50 shipped, and you can place an offer on them. Just trying to save you from the headache of having that manifold crack on you. The weight of the turbo on the runner/flange junction isn't really going to be a good thing with a cheap replica.

http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=62632&title=fs-3b-je-pistons-2c-id-injectors-2c-spa-manifold-2c-cm-clutch-and-more&cat=20
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spa-Turbo-Manifold-Audi-All-Models-Longitudinal-engin-/310324992844?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4840cf9b4c

034 is also the only company I know to offer a downpipe for the SPA manifold. They are all built to order, so basically the same thing as a custom one. Only thing is, I find custom ones are cheaper from a particular shop you are used to dealing with. Mine charges me $150, and I supply the parts. As for the HX40 fitting the SPA, I would say take a look at pics you can find of the GT35R on them, and use your judgement off of those. The HX40 is a big turbo. But I do know that the HX35 fits the side mounted manifolds (ie ebay ATP clone or Treadstone).

edit: It was actually an HY35 with a Treadstone side mount. And just read a post while looking for this pic, that be sure to mount that manifold (SPA) on your engine before placing it on the car. It is going to save you lots of headaches. I'm sure you planned on that anyways, though.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb177/audikid66/rallycross090.jpg

Dan[FN]6262

12-17-2011, 03:31 AM

From everything I was reading on a supra forum, you cannot buy a batmowheel separate, you have to order the whole turbo. From what I seen in a quick search, batmowheel turbo's are typically around $1700. and they're still journal bearing.

If I were you, I'd keep the PTE. It's DBB so you shouldn't have a problem with it failing quickly.

what's your cousins plans with the M3? is it going to be a drag car?

Turbo Nerd

12-17-2011, 09:20 AM

I bought the eBay one for $100 shipped lol. I'm going to have to do some more research, like I said I have time to see what route I want to go with.

Also Dan you can order just the batmowheel buy it self and/or send in your turbo to have them put it in, and we get a discount on it (cousin is sponsored by many companies). As for the M3 he wants it to be 1200hp+. That turbo is a T6 flange so he's going to get a T4 flange and a quick spool valve.

The problem with the PTE I bought it isn't the anti-surge comp housing so I was kind of pissed by that but I couldn't pass up the deal. My buddy and I were looking at R32's for him in Florida craigslist, that's were I accidentally found this turbo.

Seerlah

12-17-2011, 10:20 AM

You really won't know if the turbo will cause surging till you try it out. But I think the reason for compressor surging is running a larger turbo on a smaller displacment engine, which this case falls into. There is also the option of sourcing out the anti-surge housing. If you got the turbo for a good deal, then the extra cost of the compressor housing should not hurt your pockets too much. That's just well wishing, though.

Dan[FN]6262

12-17-2011, 10:25 AM

Also Dan you can order just the batmowheel buy it self and/or send in your turbo to have them put it in

Nice! I'm not sure how old the thread was that I read on the Supra forum, but they were saying that you couldn't. LOL maybe the vendors were just saying that to make a sale.

with as large and laggy as the 6262 is, you might not need a anti surge housing. There are a few people running 5857s w/o anti surge housings and they're just fine. Supposedly anti surge housings cause later spool.

Turbo Nerd

12-17-2011, 10:27 AM

Maybe I'll try to contact Precision about swapping mine out for the anti surge, I mean it's no difference in price when you buy the turbo but I'd be willing to fork over a couple bucks.

MLJS4

12-18-2011, 10:58 AM

a modded Hx40s is not on par with the 6262 you have. Just use the 6262 evo guys have no problem making 800awhp on that turbo. And have no problems with the regular housing.

Turbo Nerd

12-22-2011, 08:29 PM

Oh thanks Santie Clause you fatass for bringing my car presents and not me.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/a2a4718b.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/0b76b4e5.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/ae9d12bb.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/5e3dd19d.jpg

M-Hood

12-22-2011, 10:21 PM

6262;7117326']Nice! I'm not sure how old the thread was that I read on the Supra forum, but they were saying that you couldn't. LOL maybe the vendors were just saying that to make a sale.

with as large and laggy as the 6262 is, you might not need a anti surge housing. There are a few people running 5857s w/o anti surge housings and they're just fine. Supposedly anti surge housings cause later spool.

But most of those guys still run a T04S (4" inlet and 2.5" outlet) .70 a/r compressor housing. Isn't the 6262 in his pictures a T04E (3" inlet and 2" outlet) .60 a/r housing?

Going smaller compressor housing means hotter air temps. Which is why my next turbo will have a .85 a/r compressor housing.

Turbo Nerd

12-22-2011, 10:58 PM

jaychen

12-23-2011, 12:52 AM

lol

life is hard building race car.

Surely you could sell for profit [:d], buy something that will make same power and earlier [drive]?

Seerlah

12-23-2011, 01:53 AM

Yes it is a T04E housing, which is why I'm not sure if I want to run it. I mean I got a killer deal on it which is the only reason why I got it. Still unsure what I want to do to be honest. I don't want to have full boost at 5k but I also want a lot of power. 9.5:1 CR should help with spool a little, built stock port AEB head with supertech valve train and IE cams should help but I don't want a turbo that's too overkill. My god my head hurts.

Sell it and get a turbo you'll be happy with. When I chose my turbo, I really wanted a cheaper turbocharger like a journal bearing water and oil cooled unit. But when it came down to the come down, I forked up the money for a turbo I felt I would be happy with, had room to improve with (there are a couple options to upgrade my turbo), and really hoped I would not regret purchasing. And really, I don't.

The same principle applies here: Buy it right, or buy it twice.

jaychen

12-23-2011, 02:32 AM

What turbo are you going to run seerlah?

Seerlah

12-23-2011, 02:43 AM

Standard Garrett GT2871R T3 .63 A/R. After I do drop in rods (already picked up), then either HTA 71 or Comp CTB-30R (really, want to try out both and have a plan on how I'm going to go about it to have it not cost me much). I think I'll be happy with the power and won't want more. This is my DD and 350whp on pump is my contentment goal.

jaychen

12-23-2011, 02:58 AM

That's my exact goal. I am aiming for 300 to begin with so when I hit 350 I'm smiling all the way to the bank. Enough thread jacking. I was going to say CTB5356 would be perfect for your needs nerd.

Dan[FN]6262

12-23-2011, 06:56 AM

Comp Turbo's suck since everyone knows about them. Time to find a indie turbo company.

http://img.anongallery.org/img/4/9/fucking-hipsters-spiderman.jpg

M-Hood

12-23-2011, 08:09 AM

Turbo Nerd

12-23-2011, 10:00 AM

Seerlah

12-23-2011, 10:09 AM

fixed those for you

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/764e2b91.mp4

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/da4a3c55.mp4

Also, I believe the HTA GT3076R is good for ~400whp on pump gas with decent tune and decent amount of boost (22-25psi). Not sure what can be achieved with race gas, more timing, and more boost.

M-Hood

12-23-2011, 10:59 AM

I want the setup to be capable of 500 awhp+ with reasonable spool. I was really considering a HTA3076 but I don't know how much power I could expect from that and I don't want to be maxing out any turbos. I know it may be hard to have best of worlds (good spool and big power), which is why I want something in the middle.

My Elim kit was had full boost at ~3900 for some reason (maybe that's what they do idk). Here's the only vids I have from inside, second vid I didn't goto past 7grand for one I couldn't see the tach and two I misfired in high RPMs. Also stock clutch I Which is why I didn't beat on it, I can shift like a DSG do don't say anything about these shifts.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/764e2b91.mp4

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/da4a3c55.mp4

HTA3076 on pump gas will get you around 425whp pushing about 25psi, on race gas at that boost around 470whp. Pushing 30+ would get you into the 500+whp.
That is close to a GTX3076r which has a 58mm compressor wheel and a 60mm exhaust wheel. So anything in that size will get you the power your looking for.

Another A4 member went with the Comp Turbo 5857 and another one went Comp Turbo 5562, both of those should be able to reach 500whp.

034Motorsport

12-23-2011, 11:09 AM

Yes it is a T04E housing, which is why I'm not sure if I want to run it. I mean I got a killer deal on it which is the only reason why I got it. Still unsure what I want to do to be honest. I don't want to have full boost at 5k but I also want a lot of power. 9.5:1 CR should help with spool a little, built stock port AEB head with supertech valve train and IE cams should help but I don't want a turbo that's too overkill. My god my head hurts.

Full boost by 5k with your 6262 seems a bit optimistic to me without 2L, even with cams and a high CR. However, didn't you say you were building your head with solid lifters? In that case, who cares if you don't hit full boost by 5k? You'll hit it shortly after, and be able to rev for another 4000.

Also, I'm sorry I probably missed it, but what are you doing about tuning? Do you have easy access to retunes? If you do, not going to be very difficult to swap to a different turbo in the future if this one doesn't work out. Should be able to sell it for a similar price as to what you paid, even after using it.

Dan[FN]6262

12-23-2011, 11:14 AM

I'm stock 1781cc displacement w/ stock compression and I see 28psi at 4.8k rpms with my Comp 6262.

Tuning plays a huge roll in how a turbo spools.

stock compression is 9.3:1, so raising it to 9.5:1 isn't going to help all that much.

034Motorsport

12-23-2011, 11:42 AM

6262;7133168']I'm stock 1781cc displacement w/ stock compression and I see 28psi at 4.8k rpms with my Comp 6262.

Tuning plays a huge roll in how a turbo spools.

stock compression is 9.3:1, so raising it to 9.5:1 isn't going to help all that much.

Not bad!

What are the specs on the turbo?

Dan[FN]6262

12-23-2011, 11:44 AM

Comps own Triple Ball Bearing Billet CHRA, 100% rebuildable and 99% mechanically efficient, uses ceramic ball bearings. 4in anti surge .70 A/R compressor cover w/ 2.5in outlet, and .82 A/R Turbine housing with 4 bolt discharge. Obviously T3 flange lol.

I'll post some pics of the CHRA. It's pretty cool.

It's the only turbo I've ever seen that has absolutely zero shaft play, and wheels spin so effortlessly that all you have to do is blow on them to make them move.

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/zmadman210/IMG_0988.jpg

Here you can see the built in restrictor

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/zmadman210/IMG_0986.jpg

Threaded oil drain instead of the typical flange. Also pretty cool

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/zmadman210/IMG_0985.jpg

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/zmadman210/IMG_0982.jpg?t=1318520505

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/zmadman210/IMG_0980.jpg

M-Hood

12-23-2011, 02:38 PM

That would be the oil only CHRA. Here is a picture of their standard oil/water CHRA.

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/61/38/2041683_600.jpg

http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/61/48/2041684_600.jpg

Turbo Nerd

12-23-2011, 03:48 PM

Full boost by 5k with your 6262 seems a bit optimistic to me without 2L, even with cams and a high CR. However, didn't you say you were building your head with solid lifters? In that case, who cares if you don't hit full boost by 5k? You'll hit it shortly after, and be able to rev for another 4000.

Also, I'm sorry I probably missed it, but what are you doing about tuning? Do you have easy access to retunes? If you do, not going to be very difficult to swap to a different turbo in the future if this one doesn't work out. Should be able to sell it for a similar price as to what you paid, even after using it.

No I'm not doing solid lifters. For tuning it's either going to be one of these... Maestro, custom tune from VAST, custom tune from Paul (APR's old tuner, has a company now called ECS Performance), or Jordan from ICS... So lots of options there.

jaychen

12-23-2011, 04:28 PM

Dude, 870 Maestro file.

Seerlah

12-28-2011, 10:12 AM

Hey Mike, does the CHRA on the Comp Turbo have enough room to thread in a 90* fitting for the coolant ports?

And Turbo Nerd, there is a guy on Vortex selling an 034 downpipe for the SPA manifold for $200 (full exhaust for $400 including the SPA downpipe, and you can probably talk him into selling it for lower). Just trying to look out. If the link gets deleted because it's in the wrong section, I copy and pasted it for you here [;)]. And if you don't want that exhaust, at least you can have the DP to have your car driveable to get to a shop to get a custom one made or have your current one tweeked to fit this. Also, maybe you would want to consider a tweeked B5 S4 3" aftermarket exhaust?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5534885-FS-Turbo-Parts-trans-clutch-steering-rack

Most of this stuff is barely used. I had this turbo set up on my car for about 5,000 miles and it dyno'd at 313whp although I'd recommend the turbo for a VR6, the rest of the stuff is great for a 1.8t. PM me or preferably text me: 520-234-3431

-barely used rack: $250
-02J Manual Trans/almost new Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel: $200
-034 3" top mount downpipe: $200
-SPA top mount turbo manifold: $200
-Tial wastegate (dont remember which one...): $100
-Custom 3" exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler and tips: $200
-Borgwarner S300 turbo (great for VR6 but still fine on 1.8t): $600
-black OZ Superleggara 18x8 5x112 et32 w/ good tires: $700

Only posting the pics relevant to your needs, but listed above is what he has
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/ChargerRT83/34865c8b.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/ChargerRT83/downpipeandexhaust.jpg

Turbo Nerd

12-29-2011, 07:38 PM

Excellent find, I was about to order the downpipe this weekend. I like the sound of my Milltek exhaust so I will try to use that.

Oh yea I'm buying 2012 Charger R/T. Pics to follow soon.

Disclaimer:

No I'm not selling anything or the car.

jaychen

12-30-2011, 12:59 AM

How much is a charger ?

Wish I lived in the states for parts. So Cheap!

M-Hood

12-30-2011, 09:32 AM

Hey Mike, does the CHRA on the Comp Turbo have enough room to thread in a 90* fitting for the coolant ports?

Might have to see if it will clear the exhaust housing or if it would have to be threaded on with CHRA out of the exhaust housing. There might be just enough room to spin the 90* fitting.
Other option would be to use a straight fitting into the CHRA then a -6 to -6 90* swivel fitting which is a fitting that PSI includes in their coolant line kit.

M-Hood

12-30-2011, 09:39 AM

Turbo Nerd

12-30-2011, 05:15 PM

How much is a charger ?

Wish I lived in the states for parts. So Cheap!

30K and up for an R/T. I was looking at one for 35K, 8.4" navi, black grille, black wheels, wing, front and rear heated seats, cool and warm cup holders, they told me just under $400 a month. I test drove the new 3.6 VVT with the 8 speed tranny and that thing had some balls I must say, also I was going 45 mph and was using the paddle shifters to get in 8th gear and it was below 1k rpms.... I was like wow.

Also yea Mike they are really nice, I could probably get the SRT8 but that would leave me with no room for mods with my car so that's out of the question.

jaychen

12-30-2011, 08:39 PM

Cool car,

Audi is cooler though.

turbo kraut

12-30-2011, 09:24 PM

Audi is cool. Thats all you need.

Fixed. :)

Turbo Nerd

12-30-2011, 10:56 PM

I need a nice daily driver that I can depend on.

The only things I'm going to do to it is a cam, intake, tune and maybe exhaust. All black everything :)

jaychen

12-31-2011, 12:40 AM

All black everything :)

N**ga you know my fresh code ?

Seerlah

01-03-2012, 01:42 PM

Turbo Nerd, I have a question about your exhaust. I'm sitting here contemplating how to go about tweeking my exhaust to a 3" custom downpipe. I have the same 2.75" Milltek as you. With the slip fit, a 2.5" OD tubing will fit into the Milltek midpipe. At first, I was rather set on having a 2.75" to 3" transition peice welded onto the midpipe (cut down, where the slip fit section ends), placing a 3" V-band on that, and having one 3" downpipe made to the turbo (turbo will have a 2.5" 4 bolt to 3" v-band adapter...I actually want to have this welded onto my exhaust housing). But then the thought of actually being able to resell the exhaust for an extra $500 minimum sounds rather apealing. Because once it is tweeked, it would be rather difficult to find a buyer.

My question is: What are your thoughts on having a 2.5" OD to 3" OD transition peice placed into the midpipe (slip fit), and just doing the 3" custom downpipe that way? It is a bottle neck (more than the 2.75" would be), so I am wondering what's your opinion on how much of a performance downer it would be? Before I upgrade to a full 3" exhaust, this exhaust will see a turbo rated 51 lbs/min (HTA 71). But I will run it on a standard GT2871R for a while. That's the plan anyways. Since you have to go the same route, I am wondering what are your plans for it?

Seerlah

01-06-2012, 01:10 AM

Ok, pretty sure I am going to go the 2.5" slip fit transition to 3" v-band route, so I can resell my whole unit easier for like $500-600. And to not derail this thread, any update?

jaychen

01-06-2012, 02:45 AM

Dude, going from a 2.5'' > 3'' will create more noise then anything.

It is my understanding the exhaust gasses are at their peak when they leave the turbine housing (duh) and start to cool down and compress down the exhaust. Thats why running a 3'' down pipe > 2.5/2.75" is generally ok in some applications. Obviously when you step up to GT30's and stuff you're gonna need a full 3".

Seerlah

01-06-2012, 05:01 AM

I never had any intention to run 2.5" right off the turbo. I was referring to a 2.5" slip fit on the Milltek midpipe (vs cutting off the slip fit section and welding on a 2.75" to 3" transition) to a 3" v-band going towards the turbo...not the muffler. My exhaust will still be 2.75". I was just brainstorming on how to go about making my downpipe.

Anyways, it will be interesting to see what Turbo Nerd plans on doing, because we are basically in the same boat.

jaychen

01-08-2012, 08:20 PM

Turbo Nerd

01-25-2012, 01:44 AM

Realized I haven't updated this in a while. I haven't really did shit since I hate working in the cold and everything possible that I could do in doors is done. I have a propane heater in my garage but I don't have much room to work with unless I put the car outside (which I don't want to let it sit in the snow also I have my rack out and axe axles). The only thing I did was assemble the head, light tint on my tail lights (2 coats of VHT night shade), got my oil galley plugs (didn't pop them in yet). I did the group buy and bought 034's track density mount package so those should be here tomorrow or the next day.

We have had decent weather here but it's mostly during the week (of course when I'm working), on the weekends it's either really cold, rain, or snowing. Any Saturday that might be coming up that happens to be 40+ degrees outside then I am def putting this ****** in with the help of my cousin and my friend. Hopefully that day comes soon or I will just be waiting for Spring but by that time I will probably ditch the 2871 and throw in my 6262 or I might consider another turbo.

I'll get some pics tomorrow of whatever.

Turbo Nerd

02-17-2012, 08:52 PM

More goodies.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/af68c703.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/c7b4a7aa.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/4cd4bb8d.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/856be22d.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/d887cc59.jpg

Picked up a 99 AEB Passat that needs a few things done, I'll get pictures of it sometime.... nothing special. Also hopefully I could go look at the red 2L A4 that's in the classifieds this weekend, $4500 seems to good to be true and the fact that VAST built the car doesn't make sense since they charge up the yahoo for building a motor. I don't know we will see, this car better be faster than my stock motor elim setup or else I'm walking away quick.

Doctor

02-18-2012, 02:26 AM

Oh no - not these tailights . . . for the love of good taste . . please dont . .

Turbo Nerd

02-18-2012, 02:41 AM

They are my OEM one's with 2 coats of VHT night shade, I haven't put them on yet but I don't think it will look bad. I may be wrong but I'll install them in a few hours and see how they turn out.

Turbo Nerd

02-18-2012, 02:46 AM

Dammit I should get these instead huh?

http://www.lltek.com/images/Lighting/A4_B5_altese_tail_housings_EE0005KIT_Z.jpg

Doctor

02-18-2012, 03:15 AM

Neither- my opinion stick to the oem ones , and do the white part - red with red lamin-x or red tint spray, something to look clean red . . . keep it simple - less is more :)

jaychen

02-18-2012, 05:23 AM

He was joking Doctor ( i hope lol)

NeedingAnAudi

02-18-2012, 08:13 AM

Dammit I should get these instead huh?

http://www.lltek.com/images/Lighting/A4_B5_altese_tail_housings_EE0005KIT_Z.jpg

Do it. I dare you.

Seerlah

02-18-2012, 08:22 AM

You could mount those to the roof of your car, do like a strobe conversion, and bust some crime.

Turbo Nerd

02-18-2012, 02:11 PM

I like the way you think Seerlah lol.

Turbo Nerd

02-19-2012, 07:33 AM

Finally pressed in my oil valley caps or whatever you'd like to call them.

Had to remove my crank pulley, and front seal/cover to get the second one in.

One in.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/IMG_34001.jpg

Two in.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/ceb72ba8.jpg

Back together again.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/07e6c641.jpg

Haven't actually sat down inside my car for quite some time now so I thought it was a good opportunity to put in my new hazard flasher relay, new cup holder (worst money I've ever spent but I can't stand having things not working), and fixed my ashtray (again don't use it but I need to know I can open it without a screw driver). It felt good seeing everything again, it felt like a new car because I wasn't used to it.... fucking sad.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/81a2bb09.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/b332e502.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/bddff676.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/sWaDeGFX/f4ded455.jpg

I'll get some more stuff done today have to hit up vatozone for a box of brake clean.

Turbo Nerd

03-16-2012, 09:31 PM

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-113e-69d1.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-114a-87f4.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-1154-a552.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-1165-75f1.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-1170-5b94.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-117a-bc52.jpg

Put my tail lights back in last weekend, they look dark because of the lighting in my garage but I think they will look great in the daylight. Got my 38mm TiAL wastegate in, 034 SPA 3" downpipe, 034 billet fuel rail, 034 intake manifold spacer (AEB). The AEB head and Supertech valves will be ordered next week for sure and sent to the machine shop to be hot tanked, decked, and get a valve job.... This is all after we do some slight porting.

I have to order a new clutch since the one I got sold was for a aftermarket 228mm flywheel and I told the re-seller I wanted to keep the stock dual mass and he sent me the wrong one. "Since I handled it he cannot return it". Stupid IMO, anywho that is for sale $450 shipped to lower 48.... CM FX400 6 puck sprung 228mm for fidanza, CM, ect flywheels. PM me for that.

Seerlah

03-17-2012, 12:17 AM

Turbo Nerd, please hold onto that for me. I will def purchase it from you, if you have patience. Need to pay some bills, and want to get my car situated first.

Turbo Nerd

03-17-2012, 12:19 AM

Yea I can wait no problem.

Turbo Nerd

03-25-2012, 09:17 PM

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-e93a-7805.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-e94c-fd7c.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-e968-852f.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-e977-5a0c.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-e988-8305.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-ea05-c4e7.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-ea16-511a.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-ea22-d895.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-ea2c-190e.jpg

Do you think this will clear my rad support?

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-edac-17fb.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/443e4660-edb6-7b8f.jpg