Questions Regarding Bosch EV14 Injectors And Necessary Hardware

[PovGRide742]

Regarding Bosch EV14 Injectors in STOCK B5 S4 fuel rails:

1. What size, o-ring to o-ring, is correct... 48mm or 60mm?
2. According to this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/444424-Quick-on-FT-Builds?p=6779388&viewfull=1#post6779388) post, these (http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-injection-solutions-injector-adapter-rs4-and-others-p-17911.html) injector hats (6) are these (http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-injection-solutions-audi-a4-b5-b6-spacer-fuel-rail-6mm-thick-18t-27t-and-others-p-20197.html) fuel rail spacers (4) are required to properly secure the injectors?

Thanks, and sorry if this has already been covered...
Brett

[Rated S]

Part number: 0280158117
Look them up on eBay. FiveOMotorsports sells them for $50/piece and are cheapest I found.

52lbers.

LINK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260822517540&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A1123)

You don't need any hats/spacers or anything.

Just USCAR adapters found here:

LINK #2 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200634836003&ssPageName=STRK:MERWX:ACTPNL:LNLK:ITM#ht_550wt_939 )


I run them on my car, so I'm talking from first hand experience.

[PovGRide742]

Part number: 0280158117
Look them up on eBay. FiveOMotorsports sells them for $50/piece and are cheapest I found.

52lbers.

LINK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260822517540&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A1123)

You don't need any hats/spacers or anything.

Just USCAR adapters found here:

LINK #2 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200634836003&ssPageName=STRK:MERWX:ACTPNL:LNLK:ITM#ht_550wt_939 )


I run them on my car, so I'm talking from first hand experience.
I found them elsewhere for $50 a piece also, plus USCAR adapters... but I keep reading people's findings that the o-ring doesn't quite sit in the manifold using the stock clips without spacers and hats. Thanks for the link and input though!

[Rated S]

I found them elsewhere for $50 a piece also, plus USCAR adapters... but I keep reading people's findings that the o-ring doesn't quite sit in the manifold using the stock clips without spacers and hats. Thanks for the link and input though!
Mine don't seem to have a problem. I didn't use clips though.

[PovGRide742]

Mine don't seem to have a problem. I didn't use clips though.
That would be why then. Using the clips causes the o-rings to not fully seat in the manifolds...

[durfA4]

$229 for 8 shipped but will not divide the set.

http://www.blueovalindustries.com/en7700.html

They have the same part number as everyone else's, but they come in a ford racing box. Even cts says in their description that the sell the EV 14 as oem from the GT500. Difference is that ford rates them at 37psi instead of 3 bar so they called 47lb by ford.

Also they sell the plug adaptors for $42 for 8

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/ics/m-9593-g302.pdf

I just received my set of 8, so i will have 2 extra

[FlaS4]

Part number: 0280158117
Look them up on eBay. FiveOMotorsports sells them for $50/piece and are cheapest I found.

52lbers.

LINK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260822517540&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A1123)

You don't need any hats/spacers or anything.

Just USCAR adapters found here:

LINK #2 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200634836003&ssPageName=STRK:MERWX:ACTPNL:LNLK:ITM#ht_550wt_939 )


I run them on my car, so I'm talking from first hand experience.

Do they have 72 lbers?

[Rated S]

Do they have 72 lbers?
Link (http://stores.ebay.com/fiveomotorsport/750cc-72lb-/_i.html?_fsub=2261044016&_sid=15484396&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322)

[EuroFreak]

I have a set of 6 52lb EV14's in great shape. Send me a PM if you want them.
Also, the original Bosch o-rings on them will work, however I found the best seal to be with the OEM o-rings on the EV14s. Using the OEM clips and OEM o-rings, they seal 100% with no spacers of any kind. The OEM o-rings are a few thousandths thicker and take up any space there could have been.

OEM Audi fuel injector o-ring on the left, Bosch O-ring on the right:

http://www.cypressconcepts.com/s4/IMG_4247.JPG

[Austonwerner4]

$229 for 8 shipped but will not divide the set.

http://www.blueovalindustries.com/en7700.html

They have the same part number as everyone else's, but they come in a ford racing box. Even cts says in their description that the sell the EV 14 as oem from the GT500. Difference is that ford rates them at 37psi instead of 3 bar so they called 47lb by ford.

Also they sell the plug adaptors for $42 for 8

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/ics/m-9593-g302.pdf

I just received my set of 8, so i will have 2 extra

Are these the same as 52LB EV14's

[durfA4]

Yes they are

[PovGRide742]

$229 for 8 shipped but will not divide the set.

http://www.blueovalindustries.com/en7700.html

They have the same part number as everyone else's, but they come in a ford racing box. Even cts says in their description that the sell the EV 14 as oem from the GT500. Difference is that ford rates them at 37psi instead of 3 bar so they called 47lb by ford.

Also they sell the plug adaptors for $42 for 8

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/ics/m-9593-g302.pdf

I just received my set of 8, so i will have 2 extra
Damn... nice find!


I have a set of 6 52lb EV14's in great shape. Send me a PM if you want them.
Also, the original Bosch o-rings on them will work, however I found the best seal to be with the OEM o-rings on the EV14s. Using the OEM clips and OEM o-rings, they seal 100% with no spacers of any kind. The OEM o-rings are a few thousandths thicker and take up any space there could have been.

OEM Audi fuel injector o-ring on the left, Bosch O-ring on the right:

http://www.cypressconcepts.com/s4/IMG_4247.JPG
Yeah... I read about switcing o-rings in a thread on another forum. Thanks for the information!

[FlaS4]

Link (http://stores.ebay.com/fiveomotorsport/750cc-72lb-/_i.html?_fsub=2261044016&_sid=15484396&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322)

Whats the correct part number for the 72 lbers? 055US750? Or are they all the same?

Also what's the difference between the wireless and those that dont say wireless?

[durfA4]

Wireless are plug adaptors that clip right onto the injector, so your ev1 harness plugs into the adaptor. Wired ones have about an inch of small gauge wire between two the adaptors

[Austonwerner4]

Wireless
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/limeboy004/wireless.jpg
Wire
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/limeboy004/wire.jpg

[durfA4]

here is a phot of the ford motorsports injector ford part number M-9593-G302
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wGQBCFXCKSw/TlUmOxVeTgI/AAAAAAAAF9U/ognn0imDmVY/s912/IMG_0524.JPG
here one is alongside my old B6 1.8t injector
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pCF3Dggi8mM/TlUmPDdKy6I/AAAAAAAAF9Y/rvwuI25hsxQ/s912/IMG_0525.JPG

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I found them elsewhere for $50 a piece also, plus USCAR adapters... but I keep reading people's findings that the o-ring doesn't quite sit in the manifold using the stock clips without spacers and hats. Thanks for the link and input though!

you need the hats if you're running the short body EV14's... the ones Rated S linked are 64mm long. You will only need to make fuel rail spacers

[AudiTechS4]

i just bought these. just want to make sure they are the correct ones
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3984Q2em1439Q2el2649QQ itemZ230661336642QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEWNXQ3aIT

[NOTORIOUS VR]

no idea.. there's no info at all on the ebay or the link on the auction...

might have wanted to check if they were what you thought they were before buying them... but either way, since 034 now makes hats even if they are the shorties you're alright if you get the hats

[durfA4]

They look like the STD 52lb injector. Same body at least. Best way to find out is wait till you get them and test fit.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

They look like the STD 52lb injector. Same body at least. Best way to find out is wait till you get them and test fit.

Size =/= body length... the EV14's come in 3 different standard lengths.

[Highhats]

The good ones to get are not the modified EV14 Bosch all based on the 52lb injector. THey are the actual Bosch Motorsport racing EV14 injectors. I know EPL sells them EPlabs.net

[PovGRide742]

you need the hats if you're running the short body EV14's... the ones Rated S linked are 64mm long. You will only need to make fuel rail spacers
I noticed you had a picture in the thread containing the post I linked from Max@034Motorsport WITH injector hats on your EV14s. I'm assuming you have the short-body injectors then (48mm o-ring to o-ring)?

[NOTORIOUS VR]

correct... I have the ID1000's from Injector Dynamics.. they use the short body ones and supply you with the hats and plugs for the injectors

[PovGRide742]

For those who care... to answer my first question:

1. What size, o-ring to o-ring, is correct... 48mm or 60mm?

http://gallery.myff.org/gallery/960712/ev14.JPG
EV14 PDF (http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/components/injection_valves/EV_14.pdf)
The 'Standard' EV14 is appropriate for the S4 (for those curious, the 'Compact' EV14 is appropiate for the RS4), therefore a 48mm, o-ring to o-ring, should be used if the option is given (Ringer Racing, Air Research Design).

Still I'm confused regarding spacers and injector hats. The OEM injector is slightly shorter overall, but slightly longer o-ring to o-ring (OEM is like 2-3mm longer supposedly). This causes problems with the lower o-ring not seating correctly in the manifold when using the OEM clips. The following are two threads detailing this:
* http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/353036-EV14-injector-installation
* http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/444424-Quick-on-FT-Builds

A post in the first thread says EPL's kit came with injector hats and rail spacers. A post in the second thread, from Max at 034Motorsport, says the proper method to secure the injectors is to use injector hats, rail spacers, and the OEM clips. The following are the two posts described:
* http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/353036-EV14-injector-installation?p=5074107&viewfull=1#post5074107
* http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/444424-Quick-on-FT-Builds?p=6779388&viewfull=1#post6779388

So my assumption is for a properly secured EV14 setup, you need 48mm EV14s, injector hats, rail spacers, and OEM clips.

[PovGRide742]

correct... I have the ID1000's from Injector Dynamics.. they use the short body ones and supply you with the hats and plugs for the injectors
Fantastic! I checked their website. Their short-bodied version is the 48mm version (o-ring to o-ring). I checked the part number 0280158117, and is displayed as the 48mm version (o-ring to o-ring).

This confirms it... Standard EV14 (48mm o-ring to o-ring), injector hats, rail spacers, and OEM clips for a properly secured setup.

[durfA4]

what is the consensus on swapping of the bottom o-ring? I just bought these and am waiting to tune.

[sweets4style]

I found someone on vortex that seems to get them for the best price.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5305997-2.7T-Tuning-Solutions-value-for-your-dollar

You do not need any hats with his bosch ev14's and you just utilize the stock clips. He also sells injector dynamic sets and got me the best price hands down of anywhere else.

[PovGRide742]

what is the consensus on swapping of the bottom o-ring? I just bought these and am waiting to tune.
In addition to EuroFreak's post (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/445843-Questions-Regarding-Bosch-EV14-Injectors-And-Necessary-Hardware?p=6801706&viewfull=1#post6801706), americanthunder recommends it too (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/353036-EV14-injector-installation?p=5096456&viewfull=1#post5096456).

[PovGRide742]

I found someone on vortex that seems to get them for the best price.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5305997-2.7T-Tuning-Solutions-value-for-your-dollar

You do not need any hats with his bosch ev14's and you just utilize the stock clips. He also sells injector dynamic sets and got me the best price hands down of anywhere else.
Be careful buying from him.

[beast5150]

I have a question anyone know anything about the bosche racing injectors for the b5? they are 60lb 650cc they are from what I am told a ev14 style with the ev1 clip. Am told they are better than the ev14 as far as lumpy idle or hard to tune excetera. I don't know much about them.

[julex]

ev14 have super smooth idle and are easy to tune....

[getslideways]

/\ I too have never heard anyone talk about difficulties when using EV14s. Beast5150, you might be thinking of the Siemens 60# injectors.

[vtraudt]

I want to get a handful of the 'fat' Audi O-Rings. Part number? Source?
Use the fat ones (Audi) in the manifold, and the 'slim' (Bosch) on top? (spacers come with their worn O rings).

Note: I can't see how the short EV14 can seat properly without using the 12mm spaces. While waiting on the spacers (BTW: what is the most econimical source for them?), I hacked the mounting tabs off the (1.8T, AEB) fuel rail and tied the rail down (for a few days).



Also, the original Bosch o-rings on them will work, however I found the best seal to be with the OEM o-rings on the EV14s. Using the OEM clips and OEM o-rings, they seal 100% with no spacers of any kind. The OEM o-rings are a few thousandths thicker and take up any space there could have been.

OEM Audi fuel injector o-ring on the left, Bosch O-ring on the right:

http://www.cypressconcepts.com/s4/IMG_4247.JPG

[PovGRide742]

I want to get a handful of the 'fat' Audi O-Rings. Part number? Source?
Use the fat ones (Audi) in the manifold, and the 'slim' (Bosch) on top? (spacers come with their worn O rings).

Note: I can't see how the short EV14 can seat properly without using the 12mm spaces. While waiting on the spacers (BTW: what is the most econimical source for them?), I hacked the mounting tabs off the (1.8T, AEB) fuel rail and tied the rail down (for a few days).
035906149A

Use stock o-rings on the bottom of the injectors and on the hats, and the green ones that came with the injectors on the top of the injectors into the hats.

[vtraudt]

035906149A

Use stock o-rings on the bottom of the injectors and on the hats, and the green ones that came with the injectors on the top of the injectors into the hats.

Thanks. Makes sense. Currently looking up sources for at least 14 (1x 6 cyl, 2x 4 cyl) for the bottoms (actually 'lost' an o ring down there; assume engine ate it), or 28.
Maybe I find a bulk box of 100 and avoid paying $0.88 plus shipping for an O ring...

[*Blue-Angel*]

Interesting, I have seen venders and different forum members who have outsourced their own injectors using different Bosch variants:
Bosch 0 280 158 117
Bosch 0 280 158 123
Bosch 0 280 158 298

[vtraudt]

I have a set of 6 52lb EV14's in great shape. Send me a PM if you want them.
Also, the original Bosch o-rings on them will work, however I found the best seal to be with the OEM o-rings on the EV14s. Using the OEM clips and OEM o-rings, they seal 100% with no spacers of any kind. The OEM o-rings are a few thousandths thicker and take up any space there could have been.

OEM Audi fuel injector o-ring on the left, Bosch O-ring on the right:

http://www.cypressconcepts.com/s4/IMG_4247.JPG

Are only the bottom OEM ones thicker, or also the top? Or use Bosch top, OEM bottom?

[julex]

I've never had problems with Bosch vitons. The only time you might have issues is when you dont do anything about injector length and they are barely touching the manifold.

[Seerlah]

Just to add more content to the thread. I own a B5 A4 (yeah yeah, I know) and run EV14 630cc injectors. I redid my injector wires and canceled out the adapters. I simply butt connected pig tails with the US car connector. Much happier with it this way. If you want to keep your stock harness intact, I don't suggest you do this at all. But if you are one who modifies their car to their own liking, I highly suggest it.

My injector section of my engine harness required to be redone anyways, so I first butt connected the Jetronic type (stock) pig tails. After this was complete, I would occasionally get misfires. I knew it wasn't my butt connection, as all I would have to do is wiggle the adapter section of the injector and all would be good. But...it would happen again. Tried CRC electric parts cleaner and it fixed the random misfires for a while, but I required a permanent fix. I knew the adapters were the issue. Just too many damn connections before the injector. Redid the wires again, this time around with US connectors at the end of the pigtails and have been misfire free ever since (done recently). As mentioned before...much happier. Ordered pricey ones at first from a company I'm not really in the mood to search for again. Really nice though, and will be placed back in if I ever need that style connector (doubtful). Next time around, went the cheap ebay route. I notice the quality differences, but meh. It is what it is.

And thanks for the o-ring tip. I am using Cheap Autozone fatter ones (did the trick), but did not know OEM was fatter also. Going to reorder and replace those. Thanks!

[vtraudt]

EV14: had issues with adapters as well (I have used a few different sources). For my car: pigtails and solder on.

O rings: I just swapped the big fat Audi O rings in the bottom of EV14. Rails sits a bit higher, pushing down more. I HOPE (REALLY HOPE) that the small O rings were causing my misfires.
Pretty much everything else swapped, changed, redone, verified, traced, video taped, changed, etc. Even took the intake manifold out to check for cracks or other potential leak.
Also did leak test (with professional smoker) and pressure test (from the MAF side to 10 psi on the boost gauge). Compression test (170 totally consistent across all 6 cyl), leak down test (under 6% on all 6). VAgcom block 90-93 check (cam/crank/timing phase), valve cover off (bank 1, cyl 3 has the misfires) and verified timing marks on cams.

[Seerlah]

Soldering is more dangerous, as you can introduce more resistance. Not sure how schematics go with the 2.7t, but on the 1.8t the two wires on the injector is a constant 12v and ground signal wire. That ground wire is what drives the injector with precision from the ECM. This is why I butt connected.

[vtraudt]

Soldering is more dangerous, as you can introduce more resistance. Not sure how schematics go with the 2.7t, but on the 1.8t the two wires on the injector is a constant 12v and ground signal wire. That ground wire is what drives the injector with precision from the ECM. This is why I butt connected.

Same on 2.7T: +12V (common), signal from ECU put other to ground. I verify proper functionality by running the output test on each injector.
Crimping (not sure how butt connect works) has its own issues (particularly on very thin wires). Old wires benefit (oxidized) benefit from a dip in soldering acid prior to soldering. On new clean stranded wire, I like to 'strip and twirl' the 2 ends together, then fix with solder.

[chaos2984]

Soldering is more dangerous, as you can introduce more resistance. Not sure how schematics go with the 2.7t, but on the 1.8t the two wires on the injector is a constant 12v and ground signal wire. That ground wire is what drives the injector with precision from the ECM. This is why I butt connected.

LOL. You introduce more with butt connectors. if you look at most car makers practices for wiring repairs they tell you to solder it. Some only use heat shrinking but connects because they can't guarantee the consistanty of their techs to solder correctly. But soldering is the correct way to do it if you know what your doing. Yes if you don't know what your doing you can add resistance. But when your dealing with wires where resistance matters like ignition and fuel injector control and air bag wiring resistance matters and you should solder and if you can't do it correctly you should get someone to do it for you.

[Seerlah]

How do you figure butt connectors add more resistance? Would love to hear the reason. Extra resistance is created by extra line set and heat (or short).

And I don't use heat shrink butt connectors. I use proper sized butt crimp connectors (can be picked up at radio shack) and place on my own heat shrink from electrical store in city I work in. No AutoZone special.

[chaos2984]

How do you figure butt connectors add more resistance? Would love to hear the reason. Extra resistance is created by extra line set and heat (or short).

And I don't use heat shrink butt connectors. I use proper sized butt crimp connectors (can be picked up at radio shack) and place on my own heat shrink from electrical store in city I work in. No AutoZone special.

Sorry but that made me laugh. Your exposing the wire to the elements and you cannot be 100% sure on how that connection is in that crimp. Adding wire doesn't add measurable resistance. If you can solder correctly then that is a proper repair and use heat shrink to seal the repair for long term.

Im not saying its a bad repair but solder is more accepted in the comercial world and recommended by automakers as a correct repair. Their is more of a chance for something to happen to add resistance to that wire using a butt connection than soldering. You really should be using butt connection with heat shrink or are shrinkable. You want to seal that repair from the elements. Corrosion is a connections enemy.

I just don't consider butt connections as a proper repair. Ive always soldered my wiring repairs and modifications for a more solid longterm and peace of mind repair.

[Seerlah]

I'm a commercial/industrial HVAC tech and you can't be serious. I won't argue with you or grant a rebuttal. Instead I'll educate.

Proper solder is always better but only one reason. It has a way stronger hold than any other method besides replacing entire line. When you solder...smaller gauge wire the more chance you have to add resistance to circuit. Can get hot so fast that heat can travel to the ecu.

And to say extra line set does not add measurable resistance is simply incorrect. It depends on voltage being used and amp draw. Unless you know exactly what that circuit is rated for and exact amp draw at full load...It.does matter.

You pull the wire with a fair strength tug to confirm connection. Did you check resistence before and after your solder with a volt meter? How do you know your solders did not add resistance? I'll take a pic and pm you my butt connect materials. I used 18-22 gauge butt connectors and heat shrink tube sized I could not find in any store, including radio shack. Hence, proper sized tube picked up from electricians store.

You have your way and I have mine. I most definitely can solder. But with something so delicate I wasn't going to chance it. And still not sure how butt.connects add more resistance [confused]. If you mean by a short...then that was not due to the butt connects. It was due to install error.

[chaos2984]

I'm a commercial/industrial HVAC tech and you can't be serious. I won't argue with you or grant a rebuttal. Instead I'll educate.

Proper solder is always better but only one reason. It has a way stronger hold than any other method besides replacing entire line. When you solder...smaller gauge wire the more chance you have to add resistance to circuit. Can get hot so fast that heat can travel to the ecu.

And to say extra line set does not add measurable resistance is simply incorrect. It depends on voltage being used and amp draw. Unless you know exactly what that circuit is rated for and exact amp draw at full load...It.does matter.

You pull the wire with a fair strength tug to confirm connection. Did you check resistence before and after your solder with a volt meter? How do you know your solders did not add resistance? I'll take a pic and pm you my butt connect materials. I used 18-22 gauge butt connectors and heat shrink tube sized I could not find in any store, including radio shack. Hence, proper sized tube picked up from electricians store.

You have your way and I have mine. I most definitely can solder. But with something so delicate I wasn't going to chance it. And still not sure how butt.connects add more resistance [confused]. If you mean by a short...then that was not due to the butt connects. It was due to install error.

Well if we look at the whole world then yea wire will add resistance. But for all pouposes in automotive for a car adding whatever wire you need to do what you have to do is not going to add measurable resistance.

A correct solder connection cannot and will be broken. Its more stronger than the wire itself. Unless you heat shrink the butt connector it can corroded and or rust depending on what its exposed to. Also Ive seen butt connections fail over time when exposed to elements in automotive environment. When used anywhere but inside the car.

You maybe correct for other fields and your fields. I just know automotive and automakers stance on warrantable wire repairs and what they want done to fix a wiring problem. GM stance was butt connection (because they can't trust that all techs know how to solder correctly) but if you know how to solder correctly then solder it. And for all Air bag wiring repairs you have to solder period end of story.

And when i say measurable resistance I'm talking for automotive field only where the max tolerance is .1ohm anything lower than .1 doesn't matter on any ckt. Everything is quantifiable But I'm just speaking in real world application for cars only sorry if you got confused if i was talking about all fields.

Also honestly if your soldering and induce heat into a module to damage it you don't know how to solder properly. Ive soldered wires for 10 years now and have soldered like 3 in from a module connector and never damaged it.

I just like with car wiring to solder wiring as a more proper repair to me. Ive never had any wiring repair I've done come back on me. That is just how i was taught.

You maybe have been taught that butt connectors are god as well i don't know. But if you do proper steps with them they can be as good.

[Seerlah]

Agree to agree. Agree to disagree. Done properly, both work well. I also wrapped my injector section with cloth tape when done. Not a half assed butt connect job.

[chaos2984]

Agree to agree. Agree to disagree. Done properly, both work well. I also wrapped my injector section with cloth tape when done. Not a half assed butt connect job.

Exactly that's what i was trying to get at to make a point. Sorry wasn't trying to offend you

[Seerlah]

No problem [cool]

[Jtozier9]

035906149A

Use stock o-rings on the bottom of the injectors and on the hats, and the green ones that came with the injectors on the top of the injectors into the hats.

I ordered that part number 035906149A Bosch and the o-rings were still thinner than oem. Even though europa parts says this is the OEM washer.

Does anyone know where to get the OEM ones that are thicker? My injectors are still leaking. My dealership wants $6.99 a piece which adds up if I get all 12.

[slowSfaux]

Word on the street is the oe injector Seals are no longer available. Some dealerships might have some in stock, but technically they aren't being produced anymore.

[wbrunner23]

I'm pretty sure I got some from NAPA for my EV14s

[Jtozier9]

Word on the street is the oe injector Seals are no longer available. Some dealerships might have some in stock, but technically they aren't being produced anymore.

Thanks for the feedback. Have you ever used a refurbished injector or know anyone that makes new ones equivalent to stock?

[Cysco abt S4]

That would be why then. Using the clips causes the o-rings to not fully seat in the manifolds...

I use clips no hats or spacers @30psi
First set was 10mm taller than stock but I found ones our size and replaced them
Use stick own orings


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[AudiSportB5S4]

Sorry to bump an old thread here, but was just replacing the lower o-rings on my 52LB (Bosch PN: 0 280 158 117) trying to pinpoint some idle misfires and noticed when I have the clips on, I can't get the injector as deep as I can if I seat the injector into the intake manifold first, and then try to put the rail on top. In fact, I couldn't get the rail down far enough going that route once I felt the injector was really seated in the manifold. It was driving me INSANE, borderline snapped my wrist trying to apply pressure to get them down. [>_<]

I have the big ole o-rings from Audi. What's the deal here? Seems like you can "get away with it", but what I've noticed is light idle misfires that I assume are due to a very minor vac leak due to not being fully seated. Under throttle the misses go away. Someone in here mentioned no clips, I assume that would allow the injector to go down slightly further.. That's okay to do? Is that the safest? Or would it be safest to get some sort of hats/spacers to ensure fully into the IM?

On the S4 wiki page, the length says 52MM which I'm assuming is o-ring to o-ring, and when I search the Bosch PN online for these 52lb'ers that everyone uses they say 51MM so thinking that 1MM may actually be the difference maker..

Thank you for any help.

[oasis]

I think you would want them factory nozzle depth, clipped in otherwise pressure in the rail will eventually force them down.

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[AvantNoir]

If it's an injector wiring issue, I make these:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/973730-Replacement-Fuel-Injection-Harness-for-2000-2005-Audi-A4-1-8T

[AudiSportB5S4]

Just want to come back to this thread to say that I ended up getting hats/spacers from 034 for my EV14s (PN: 0 280 158 117) and they fit much better IMO. With OEM big o-rings and using the clips on the fuel rail, I could see the top of the o-ring in the port. When having the hats/spacers, I was able to fully seat the injector, plop the hats on, and then really seat the rail on top which makes me feel much better. After just watching someone's car get torched because of a fuel issue, I decided to address this to make me feel better!

Link to 034 injector hat kit: https://www.034motorsport.com/injector-adapter-hat-rs4-and-others-short-to-tall-set-of-6-1.html

Link to 034 fuel rail spacers (need 4 of them, one for each post): https://www.034motorsport.com/spacer-fuel-rail-6mm-thick-1-8t-2-7t-and-others.html

The longer bolts you need to get are an M6 hex head x 1.0 x 20mm. I got them from a local hardware store.

[S4B5Quattro]

@AudiSportB5S4
Hey just wondering, did you also use a set of clips for the injector to hats fastening? I'm about to get the same setup and wondering if another set of clips is needed (Thus a total of 12 clips).
Thanks,

[Silverex]

@AudiSportB5S4
Hey just wondering, did you also use a set of clips for the injector to hats fastening? I'm about to get the same setup and wondering if another set of clips is needed (Thus a total of 12 clips).
Thanks,

If it’s clips I’m thinking of 6 is all that’s needed

[xRenesis]

you could also get correct length injectors? I haven't been on the stock rail in a while, but aren't the modified EV14s still correct with stock rail?