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View Full Version : Powersteering fluid level : HELP



patastinky
07-26-2011, 09:27 AM
Hey Guys. I'm embarrassed to even post this question, but i checked my owners manual and it does say.

Basically I heard a whining noise coming from the front driverside wheel. It only made the noise when I turned the wheel. Right away I knew it was the PS fluid that had to be low; it was.

I went to Audi and bought some OEM PS fluid. With the car off I filled it to MAX. However when the car is on and I check the fluid it's exactly on MIN.

Should it be in-between MIN-MAX when the car is on!?

Thanks in advance!!

beemercer
07-26-2011, 09:41 AM
I believe there was a TSB for the 8E S4s that notified techs to fill a bit past the indicated maximum fluid level

BlueSteW8
07-26-2011, 09:50 AM
I think there is a minor difference based on whether it is "hot" or "cold"?

jhmotard
07-26-2011, 10:17 AM
I think there is a minor difference based on whether it is "hot" or "cold"?

^THIS

patastinky
07-26-2011, 11:17 AM
I believe there was a TSB for the 8E S4s that notified techs to fill a bit past the indicated maximum fluid level

Is that with the car running or off!?

patastinky
07-26-2011, 11:18 AM
I think there is a minor difference based on whether it is "hot" or "cold"?

It was whining both cold and hot.

S4fun
07-26-2011, 01:16 PM
I believe there was a TSB for the 8E S4s that notified techs to fill a bit past the indicated maximum fluid level

The dealer did my 25K service and added power steering fluid past max a bit. I don't get any noise, but I still have my power steering drop out every once in awhile.

redls1bird
07-26-2011, 03:44 PM
straight from Elsa (Audi work instructions.)


Power Steering, Checking Fluid Level
– Do not run engine and turn front wheels to straight ahead position.
Fluid, when Cold (Outside Temperature Approximately +20° C):
– Remove the cap.
– Wipe dipstick off with a clean cloth.
– Screw cap on hand-tight and unscrew again.
The cap must be fully screwed in order to obtain an accurate fluid level reading.

– Check fluid level: Oil level must be within MAX marking.
Fluid at Operating Temperature (Engine Oil Temperature +80 °C)
– Check fluid level: Oil level must be 10 mm above MAX marking.
Notet Fluid must be drawn off if the level is above the specified range.
t If oil level is below aforementioned area, then the hydraulic system must be checked for leaks. It is not sufficient to merely top off the fluid.
t Do not use drained hydraulic oil.


bulletin as described by another AZ member:

Condition

Power steering is noisy.

Technical Background

• If the power steering fluid is below the minimum mark during cold conditions, air may be drawn into the power steering pump.

• If system components were replaced or disconnected, system filling or bleeding procedures may not have been carried out properly.


Production Solution

Not applicable.

Service

Do not replace any power steering system components until the following is checked:

1. Verify customer’s concern.

2. Check the power steering fluid level. (See Repair Manual >> Fluid level, checking.)

3. Check system for leaks.

4. Check installation of the filter/screen in the reservoir.

5. Check for other possible sources of noise such as belt driven engine accessories, their belt tensioners and brackets.

6. Ensure that hoses are not rubbing against the body or other components.

7. Ensure that the suction line from the reservoir to the pump is not squeezed, pinched or twisted, causing reduced fluid flow.

8. Check the fluid level.
• With engine cold (outside temperature approx.+20° C / 68° F), fluid level must be at MAX level.

• With engine warm (engine oil temperature 80° C /176° F), fluid level must be 10 mm above MAX level.

Figure 1. The fluid level must be 10 mm above MAX level when the engine is warm.

9. If the fluid level is below the MIN mark (engine hot or cold), there is a chance that air has entered the system. Follow these steps in order to eliminate any air trapped in the system:

a. Test drive vehicle to warm up the fluid.

b. Park vehicle. Switch ignition off and let vehicle sit for 1 minute.

c. After 1 minute, open fluid reservoir and inspect for air bubbles.

• If air bubbles are not present, no air is in the system. Air is not causing the noise. Check other system components.

• If air bubbles are present:

i. Allow vehicle to sit for at least 2 hours.

ii. Check fluid level and add fluid as necessary.

iii. Perform test drive to ensure noise has been eliminated.

iv. It may be necessary to repeat this procedure more than once.

beemercer
07-26-2011, 03:52 PM
^hmmm sucks these cars have the worst power steering issues. A fluid flush solved my problems (aerated fluid and awful whining), and the fluid came out full of black grit.

B6JoeS4
07-26-2011, 09:26 PM
I changed my fluid at 83k when i got my S using this method:
1. with engine off, suck out all the fluid from the resivor with a turkey baster
2. fill to almost the top with fresh new fluid
3. Screw cap on and start the car. Turn the wheel elft to right all the way 3 times then shut off
4. repeat 1-4 until the fluid coming out of the resivor is fairly clean.

I used 3L when I did it and it completely fixed all my whining issues. I did the same process again last month (90k) just to make sure the fluid is fresh 100%

beemercer
07-26-2011, 09:55 PM
I normally disconnect the return line and drain it from there

patastinky
07-27-2011, 07:23 AM
Thank you all for your help! Greatly appreciated!!

crabpot
07-27-2011, 08:39 AM
I think mine is a bit low too, I get the same whine on occasion ... no consistency to it though, pretty random that it happens.

audivoodoo
07-27-2011, 08:41 AM
I normally disconnect the return line and drain it from there
is there any bleeding you have to do after you fully drain the system or is the PS reservoir the high point? Thank you.

beemercer
07-27-2011, 08:53 AM
is there any bleeding you have to do after you fully drain the system or is the PS reservoir the high point? Thank you.

The reservoir should be the highpoint. All I do is disconnect the return line and hook it up to some clear pvc line to run it out of the car. Then cap the barb on the reservoir, crank the motor for like a second. The extended line should puke some nasty old fluids top off the reservoir and repeat until you see green fluid. Takes an hour and if I did it again would be a regular maintenance item

dparm
07-27-2011, 09:35 AM
Reservoir is the high-point.

When I changed mine this spring I used the turkey baster method and overfilled slightly. Car is doing just fine. I used Swepco 715.

SquiddyB6S4
07-27-2011, 03:40 PM
^hmmm sucks these cars have the worst power steering issues. A fluid flush solved my problems (aerated fluid and awful whining), and the fluid came out full of black grit.

I think the industry is slowly moving towards putting P/S fluid replacement on new vehicle maintenance schedules, just like trans oil, diff oil, etc. have been coming under fire for the same thing. I'd say every 30k would be a good start for a P/S fluid flush. Figure - it's a hydraulic oil, and 30,000 miles should be some 3,000 hours. 3,000 hours is already a pretty long oil change interval for a pump, since it's a working fluid and not just a gear/bearing lubricant.