B8 A4 intercooler comparison thread

[blbroo]

One of these days I'm going to do some more in depth W/M research so I can figure out what all that means and does. I have no idea what the different bung sizes can mean, other than obviously more spray vs less spray...

But as a starter, that dual spray kit is supposed to go in conjunction with a w/m kit that is already in place?

So for example:

This: http://www.vr-speed.com/snow-performance-20012-2-0t-stage-2-2-0t-fsi-boost-cooler-water-methanol-injection-kit-volkswagen.html

Plus: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_265&products_id=1629

??

Snow Performance has a great FAQ on their website. Basically, W/M lowers intake temps and increases octane. Lower IAT = more HP. Lower IAT and higher octane allow for increased timing = more hp.

Some of the W/M evaporates in the boost pipes, some gets farther and steam cleans the valves before increasing octane.

Too much spray results in quench, which lowers octane and reduces power. I'm running one 375 nozzle that is hooked up just after the intercooler exit. Feels the same as running a 175 after the intercooler and a 100 after the throttle body.

But, WTF do I know. I didn't really even understand how a turbo worked until about 12 months ago.

[shaunm82]

But as a starter, that dual spray kit is supposed to go in conjunction with a w/m kit that is already in place?

So for example:

This: http://www.vr-speed.com/snow-performance-20012-2-0t-stage-2-2-0t-fsi-boost-cooler-water-methanol-injection-kit-volkswagen.html

Plus: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_265&products_id=1629

??

Yup, you are correct. Those two items basically go hand in hand.

I'm running what Brian mentioned, the 175ml after the ic, and the 100ml after the TB. They also have a guide as to which nozzles you can or should be running, seems the displacement and power rating of the car is also a factor in which nozzle size you run.

[Lambda13]

Yup, you are correct. Those two items basically go hand in hand.

I'm running what Brian mentioned, the 175ml after the ic, and the 100ml after the TB. They also have a guide as to which nozzles you can or should be running, seems the displacement and power rating of the car is also a factor in which nozzle size you run.

Based on your signature sounds like we'd be looking at similar setups. What trans you have?

[shaunm82]

Based on your signature sounds like we'd be looking at similar setups. What trans you have?

I'm 8AT, I'm pretty content right now. Maybe not in 3-4 months once that EFR drops, and we see some used setups go up in the classifieds though lol.

Also be interesting to see how well the meth cools our cars in the warmer weather.

[Lambda13]

I'm 8AT, I'm pretty content right now. Maybe not in 3-4 months once that EFR drops, and we see some used setups go up in the classifieds though lol.

Also be interesting to see how well the meth cools our cars in the warmer weather.

Yea definitely. I am starting a slow process of researching how to beef up my 6 speed trip.

[blbroo]

I'm checking to confirm with SNOW, but I am building a theory that this FMIC works so good, that it takes away some of the W/M ability. My IATs were 52-57F today when cruising hard on the highway and would drop into the mid to high 40's when meth sprayed in. Ambient temp is 42. I'm not sure what temp / pressure combination is needed for water vapor to evaporate and cool the air charge, but assume it is much more than 50.

I can run the 100 octane file with no spray and have no misfires or detonation. Will see what they say, but I might turn the spray way back and put a few bottles of heet in to reduce the water %.

[Dub_prime]

I'm checking to confirm with SNOW, but I am building a theory that this FMIC works so good, that it takes away some of the W/M ability. My IATs were 52-57F today when cruising hard on the highway and would drop into the mid to high 40's when meth sprayed in. Ambient temp is 42. I'm not sure what temp / pressure combination is needed for water vapor to evaporate and cool the air charge, but assume it is much more than 50.

I can run the 100 octane file with no spray and have no misfires or detonation. Will see what they say, but I might turn the spray way back and put a few bottles of heet in to reduce the water %.

You are going to make me buy the intercooler aren't you... Wish the stupid insurance company would settle already so I can get back on the road.

[Lambda13]

My TR11, better view than my original.

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/andrewmoore13/Mobile%20Uploads/20160112_171416_zpsrrcz61g0.jpg

[Townending]

My TR11, better view than my original.

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/andrewmoore13/Mobile%20Uploads/20160112_171416_zpsrrcz61g0.jpg

Did your city turn up your streetlights to the "Noon on a sunny day" setting? Those are bright!


On a related note, did you guys notice any increase in turbo lag with the TR11? I'm liking the price, but my biggest concern is the time it takes to build pressure in that massive thing.

[Lambda13]

Did your city turn up your streetlights to the "Noon on a sunny day" setting? Those are bright!


On a related note, did you guys notice any increase in turbo lag with the TR11? I'm liking the price, but my biggest concern is the time it takes to build pressure in that massive thing.

It actually doesn't have much pressure loss which is why I went with it. I haven't seen any negative effects. It was in preparation of a new turbo :)

I think its primarily glare, but yea those seem wicked bright lol

[Townending]

Oooohhh, I like the size of the TR8.

[dscline]

I'm checking to confirm with SNOW, but I am building a theory that this FMIC works so good, that it takes away some of the W/M ability. My IATs were 52-57F today when cruising hard on the highway and would drop into the mid to high 40's when meth sprayed in. Ambient temp is 42. I'm not sure what temp / pressure combination is needed for water vapor to evaporate and cool the air charge, but assume it is much more than 50.
No, a DRY bulb temperature below 50 is not going to prevent cooling via evaporation, but if the dry bulb temperature is 50, and the web bulb temp is 49, THAT will absolutely limit your cooling potential. Once the air hits 100% RH, you can't cool it any more with evaporation (though the addition of alcohol complicates matters somewhat). It is true though that a more efficient intercooler can reduce the potential cooling from spraying. If we assume a worst case condition of 100% RH (raining out), then air gets heated up through the turbo, then cooled back down to some extent via the intercooler, even with the best intercooler the air is still going to be somewhat warmer than it was before the turbo. If it's warmer, then the air is no longer @ 100% humidity (at least before your spray head), so there is potential for cooling. The coolest you'll be able to get the air via evaporation (again, ignoring effects of alcohol) is back down to the temp before the turbo (and again, for the condition where it was at 100% RH at that point). That remains the same whether you have a great intercooler, or a shitty one. But even in this worst case scenario, the high capacity intercooler isn't a complete waste: you can get the same final temp with less spray (and of course, if you spray more than you need to get to 100%, there is more cooling potential inside the combustion chamber).

[zcspec]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

[blbroo]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

They are not that expensive and have much better holding power. I've heard of hoses coming loose with the stock clamps, but not with the T style. Plus, the stock ones might not be big enough for the 2.5" outlet

[shaunm82]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

Not 100% needed. I ran with the oem ones for a little while. They never blew off or anything. I eventually moved on to T-Bolts, but I'd say you don't 'need' to get them.

[blbroo]

Not 100% needed. I ran with the oem ones for a little while. They never blew off or anything. I eventually moved on to T-Bolts, but I'd say you don't 'need' to get them.

That is a good point. If you use them, and they don't blow off, you're good. If they blow off, upgrade.

[lettuce]

Lettuce, Thanks for posting the items needed for the Treadstone upgrade. To others who have installed it, how necessary is it to buy the "better" 2.25" clamps? I have purchased everything else except those. Would the OEM 2.25" work?

Like they said, you could possibly get away with using your stock clamps, but they're cheap enough that I'd just get the better ones. You're already saving a bunch of money with this FMIC, I wouldn't skimp out on the little stuff. If you blow a hose far from home and don't have tools and a replacement handy you'll be kicking yourself.

[zcspec]

Very true...it's just a few more dollars for the 2.25" and my OCD would eventually force me to buy them to match the higher quality 2.5" ones I already bought. Thanks for the input guys! I'll be ordering the 2.25" clamps and should finally have the TR8 installed sometime in Feb.

Aside note...I found a couple of DIYs for removing the bumper but nothing extremely elaborate. Mind giving me feedback/insight/wisdom when it comes to removing the AR's front bumper? I've personally watched 2 A3s being removed and it did not seem fun at all.

[Lambda13]

Very true...it's just a few more dollars for the 2.25" and my OCD would eventually force me to buy them to match the higher quality 2.5" ones I already bought. Thanks for the input guys! I'll be ordering the 2.25" clamps and should finally have the TR8 installed sometime in Feb.

Aside note...I found a couple of DIYs for removing the bumper but nothing extremely elaborate. Mind giving me feedback/insight/wisdom when it comes to removing the AR's front bumper? I've personally watched 2 A3s being removed and it did not seem fun at all.

Shoulda gone TR11... Go big or go home!

[lettuce]

Shoulda gone TR11... Go big or go home!

Why stop at TR11?

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=87397&cat_key=63&prodname=TR1260+Intercooler+1300HP

Go big or go home.


Very true...it's just a few more dollars for the 2.25" and my OCD would eventually force me to buy them to match the higher quality 2.5" ones I already bought. Thanks for the input guys! I'll be ordering the 2.25" clamps and should finally have the TR8 installed sometime in Feb.

Aside note...I found a couple of DIYs for removing the bumper but nothing extremely elaborate. Mind giving me feedback/insight/wisdom when it comes to removing the AR's front bumper? I've personally watched 2 A3s being removed and it did not seem fun at all.

The diy I used the first time I did it was part of the RS4 grille installation that's in the diy sticky. It's really no big deal at all, takes maybe 30 mins the first time you do it and 15 minutes every time after that. It's just a couple bolts and wiring clips.

[zokissima]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

[blbroo]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

The TR8 is an upgrade from the 3.0. I think lettuce moved from the TDI FMIC.


Signature overridden by community admin.

[Lambda13]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

I did some research and found that the TR11 has the same performance points as the TR8 but it was larger. Larger = Moar better.

[lettuce]

For the TR8, I'd suggest that you just go with the OEM 3.0TDI intercooler, since it's basically mounted right in the OEM location.

TR11 is a good bet. I've got the 3.0TDI intercooler, but will probably upgrade to the TR11.

What makes you say that? The TR8 was a huge upgrade over the 3.0 IC for me. Like a night and day difference. The 3.0 was good for stage 2 but was heat soaking bad with the F23L. I haven't been able to heat up the TR8 at all, and believe me I've tried.

The TR11 is honestly unnecessary for our applications. The TR8 is rated to 500hp and the TR11 to 560hp. If anyone here is in need of that little bit of extra power handling please let me know what you're running cause I want some of that.

[blbroo]

What makes you say that? The TR8 was a huge upgrade over the 3.0 IC for me. Like a night and day difference. The 3.0 was good for stage 2 but was heat soaking bad with the F23L. I haven't been able to heat up the TR8 at all, and believe me I've tried.

The TR11 is honestly unnecessary for our applications. The TR8 is rated to 500hp and the TR11 to 560hp. If anyone here is in need of that little bit of extra power handling please let me know what you're running cause I want some of that.

There really can't be a better functioning intercooler for our cars than the TR8. Treadstone should be sponsoring Lettuce and I for pioneering this path.

[lettuce]

There really can't be a better functioning intercooler for our cars than the TR8. Treadstone should be sponsoring Lettuce and I for pioneering this path.

Seriously. Intercoolers are like condoms, and getting a TR11 for our cars is like getting a box of magnum XLs for a regular-sized dick.

[Lambda13]

Seriously. Intercoolers are like condoms, and getting a TR11 for our cars is like getting a box of magnum XLs for a regular-sized dick.

Except that using a Magnum condom has negative side effects. Like having to go fishing and then making them take the fast way down a flight of stairs. The TR11 fit perfectly under the crash bar and took minimum modifications or maneuvering to make it fit.

[asfastas63]

Any thoughts on the TR8C (center Inlet/Outet) vs the TR8? For some reason it's $30 cheaper than the TR8. Think the hose setup you guys suggested would still work for it?

[blbroo]

Any thoughts on the TR8C (center Inlet/Outet) vs the TR8? For some reason it's $30 cheaper than the TR8. Think the hose setup you guys suggested would still work for it?

I bet it would. Lambda13 is running the TR11 under the crash bar with the same hose setup that I have with a TR8 mounted behind the crash bar, just barely overlapping it.

[asfastas63]

I bet it would. Lambda13 is running the TR11 under the crash bar with the same hose setup that I have with a TR8 mounted behind the crash bar, just barely overlapping it.

Well I just snagged a brand new one on ebay for $150 shipped, so it looks like I'll be giving it a shot! You guys are bad for my credit card.

[blbroo]

Well I just snagged a brand new one on ebay for $150 shipped, so it looks like I'll be giving it a shot! You guys are bad for my credit card.

Nice! I found mine on eBay too. Was an open box and cost me less than $100.

LOL to this crap!
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=b8+a4+intercooler&safe=off&tbm=shop

[Lambda13]

Well I just snagged a brand new one on ebay for $150 shipped, so it looks like I'll be giving it a shot! You guys are bad for my credit card.

I wish I had the same luck you guys did. Still paid a fraction of the cost of the pre-built kits though.

[asfastas63]

Nice! I found mine on eBay too. Was an open box and cost me less than $100.

LOL to this crap!
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=b8+a4+intercooler&safe=off&tbm=shop

Damn I was looking into the tubing/clamps and just realized the TR8 is 2.5" outlet and the TR8C is 3".

Edit: These might work, and I'm still saving $60 after the different hoses and clamps. Also it looks like the pressure drop is slightly better on this version, 1.5psi instead of 2.0psi for the TR8.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-910.html

Edit2: Is it worth it to spring for the eurocode HFIP to swap that out while I'm in there? Or just do the soundbox delete?

[zcspec]

I reconsidered the TR8 when Lambda13 mentioned the TR11 a while back. However, after careful considering (no disrespect to TR11 owners) what brother me most, I didn't like the fact that some of the IC was blocked by the crash bar. I am aware that it still functions very well, but the OCD in me MADE be believe it's best not being blocked to receive maximum air flow. That's just me though...

[Lambda13]

I reconsidered the TR8 when Lambda13 mentioned the TR11 a while back. However, after careful considering (no disrespect to TR11 owners) what brother me most, I didn't like the fact that some of the IC was blocked by the crash bar. I am aware that it still functions very well, but the OCD in me MADE be believe it's best not being blocked to receive maximum air flow. That's just me though...

Its about 1/4 of an inch of the crash bar. Still more air reaching it then the TR8. It's mounted to the bottom, so the only overlap is the tiny bulge each leading edge has.

EDIT: The TR11 is the same size as the Eurocode FMIC.

[blbroo]

Damn I was looking into the tubing/clamps and just realized the TR8 is 2.5" outlet and the TR8C is 3".

Edit: These might work, and I'm still saving $60 after the different hoses and clamps. Also it looks like the pressure drop is slightly better on this version, 1.5psi instead of 2.0psi for the TR8.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-910.html

Edit2: Is it worth it to spring for the eurocode HFIP to swap that out while I'm in there? Or just do the soundbox delete?

If you opt for the delete, I can mail you some caps, then your only cost is a hose clamp. I have some extra around.

Or, you can get them at Menard's for $1.00 a pack.

http://www.menards.com/main/items/media/SHEPH001/ProductLarge/2172253-9213.jpg

[Lambda13]

If you opt for the delete, I can mail you some caps, then your only cost is a hose clamp. I have some extra around.

Or, you can get them at Menard's for $1.00 a pack.

http://www.menards.com/main/items/media/SHEPH001/ProductLarge/2172253-9213.jpg

After you send me sway bars and a calendar NOW you mention that you have some of those left? lol

[blbroo]

After you send me sway bars and a calendar NOW you mention that you have some of those left? lol

Well, um, I, you see...

Actually, I just bought more because I used them to cap off my boost tap when installing the catch can. I thought my tap had a threading for a plug, but it didn't, so I improvised.

I might have the redneckiest B8 in the world. Has two chair leg tips on it and a Ford F150 exhaust damper. yeeehaaaw

[zcspec]

Its about 1/4 of an inch of the crash bar. Still more air reaching it then the TR8. It's mounted to the bottom, so the only overlap is the tiny bulge each leading edge has.

EDIT: The TR11 is the same size as the Eurocode FMIC.

Well then...speaking from experience!

When I read the specs sheet, the TR11 read much taller than the TR8, hence my apprehension. I'm assuming the TR11 just hangs a little lower than the TR8 from the crash bar. Either way, I'm glad you guys thought outside the box and pioneered a cheaper, just as effective if not more, than the name brand manufactured ICs.

[Lambda13]

Well then...speaking from experience!

When I read the specs sheet, the TR11 read much taller than the TR8, hence my apprehension. I'm assuming the TR11 just hangs a little lower than the TR8 from the crash bar. Either way, I'm glad you guys thought outside the box and pioneered a cheaper, just as effective if not more, than the name brand manufactured ICs.

Treadstone is actually a brand name intercooler company. They specialize in it lol.

But yes, it hangs slightly higher than the belly pans and just under the crash bar. I used 2 L brackets (I cut some of the excess pieces off) and 2 T brackets to mount it to the crash bar (also cut the T bracket to fit). It is snugly on there and looks pretty mean.

[lettuce]

Except that using a Magnum condom has negative side effects. Like having to go fishing and then making them take the fast way down a flight of stairs. The TR11 fit perfectly under the crash bar and took minimum modifications or maneuvering to make it fit.

Under the crash bar or behind the crash bar? There's no way it fit under it, the TR8 is 7.8" tall and barely fit under mine, compared to 11" for the TR11. And with the 3.5" thick core of the TR8 compared to only 3" of the TR11 the TR8 is going to have more surface area exposed to moving air than the TR11 since the portion of it that's mounted behind the crash bar isn't really getting much, if any airflow at all.

Then you have to take into account the fact that it's a larger volume container that has to fill with pressurized air before it gets to your combustion chambers, decreasing your pedal responce.

[Lambda13]

Under the crash bar or behind the crash bar? There's no way it fit under it, the TR8 is 7.8" tall and barely fit under mine, compared to 11" for the TR11. And with the 3.5" thick core of the TR8 compared to only 3" of the TR11 the TR8 is going to have more surface area exposed to moving air than the TR11 since the portion of it that's mounted behind the crash bar isn't really getting much, if any airflow at all.

Then you have to take into account the fact that it's a larger volume container that has to fill with pressurized air before it gets to your combustion chambers, decreasing your pedal responce.
On second thought there is a small portion behind it. My mistake. I'll measure it. I have more surface area facing forward than behind the crash bar. Not to mention air will still flow in behind the crash bar, won't it?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Dub_prime]

On second thought there is a small portion behind it. My mistake. I'll measure it. I have more surface area facing forward than behind the crash bar. Not to mention air will still flow in behind the crash bar, won't it?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If it's at a 45° angle or less it should, otherwise it won't allow air to pass through efficiently.

[lettuce]

On second thought there is a small portion behind it. My mistake. I'll measure it. I have more surface area facing forward than behind the crash bar. Not to mention air will still flow in behind the crash bar, won't it?

I would imagine there would be somewhere between 2 and 2.5 inches of IC behind your crash bar. And if it's mounted up directly behind it, those two inches will be getting zero airflow. If it's set back a bit it'll be getting some, but not very much at all.

The Treadstone intercoolers are also advertised oddly on their site in regards to their specifications. It almost seems misleading, albeit probably not intentionally. Below are the pages for the TR6, TR8 and TR11.

The red arrows are pointing to "pressure drop at max flow", while the green arrows are pointing to "pressure drop". The TR6 has both values listed, while the TR8 and TR11 only have one value listed, the TR8 having the "pressure drop at max flow" value listed and the TR11 having the standard "pressure drop" value listed. Here is a summary of the values:

TR6:
Less than 2psi pressure drop at max flow
less than 1psi pressure drop

TR8:
Less than 2psi pressure drop at max flow

TR11:
Less than 1.5 psi pressure drop

An email to Treadstone would be able to clear this up I'm sure, but based solely off these values (namely the TR6 values) it seems like 'pressure drop at max flow' is roughly double that of standard 'pressure drop'. So if I were to use a bit of inductive reasoning, I might conclude that the following missing values can be filled in for the other two intercoolers (my theoretical values in italics):

TR6:
Less than 2psi pressure drop at max flow
less than 1psi pressure drop

TR8:
Less than 2psi pressure drop at max flow
less than 1psi pressure drop

TR11:
Less than 3psi pressure drop at max flow
Less than 1.5 psi pressure drop

https://i.imgur.com/giYDCMq.jpg

[boomtime]

Damn I was looking into the tubing/clamps and just realized the TR8 is 2.5" outlet and the TR8C is 3".

Edit: These might work, and I'm still saving $60 after the different hoses and clamps. Also it looks like the pressure drop is slightly better on this version, 1.5psi instead of 2.0psi for the TR8.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-910.html

Edit2: Is it worth it to spring for the eurocode HFIP to swap that out while I'm in there? Or just do the soundbox delete?

The Eurocode HFIP is 2.25" diameter whereas the Eurocode FMIC is 2.5" diameter.
They are not compatible with each other.
Also the Eurocode TruFit silicone intercooler hoses are 2.25" and are designed to work with the stock B8 FMIC and the HFIP.

To use the Eurocode FMIC you need a 2.5" piping kit.

I have for sale both the Eurocode FMIC and 2.5" hard pipe kit with all hardware and SS t-bolt clamps :) for B8/B8.5

The main point here is the HFIP is 2.25"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[asfastas63]

The Eurocode HFIP is 2.25" diameter whereas the Eurocode FMIC is 2.5" diameter.
They are not compatible with each other.
Also the Eurocode TruFit silicone intercooler hoses are 2.25" and are designed to work with the stock B8 FMIC and the HFIP.

To use the Eurocode FMIC you need a 2.5" piping kit.

I have for sale both the Eurocode FMIC and 2.5" hard pipe kit with all hardware and SS t-bolt clamps :) for B8/B8.5

The main point here is the HFIP is 2.25"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not talking about a Eurocode FMIC, I just purchased the tr8c which has 3" outlets. I'm planning on using stock hoses and a 3" to 2.25" 45* hose to interface, but was curious if the high flow pipe without the sound box would be a worthwhile addition while I had it all apart.

I'm not familiar with the 2.5" kit, any more info on it? I could step the 3" to 2.5" and get better flow all around I guess.

[boomtime]

Not talking about a Eurocode FMIC, I just purchased the tr8c which has 3" outlets. I'm planning on using stock hoses and a 3" to 2.25" 45* hose to interface, but was curious if the high flow pipe without the sound box would be a worthwhile addition while I had it all apart.

I'm not familiar with the 2.5" kit, any more info on it? I could step the 3" to 2.5" and get better flow all around I guess.

Your not going to get better flow going from 3" to 2.25" or even from 3" to 2.5", etc.
You will get the best flow with 2.25 -> 2.25 and 2.5 -> 2.5.
3" is going to hurt throttle response and is to big for your application.

I know you dont care about the Eurocode FMIC. I only used that as an example since you mentioned another Eurocode product, the HFIP.

[asfastas63]

Your not going to get better flow going from 3" to 2.25" or even from 3" to 2.5", etc.
You will get the best flow with 2.25 -> 2.25 and 2.5 -> 2.5.
3" is going to hurt throttle response and is to big for your application.

I know you dont care about the Eurocode FMIC. I only used that as an example since you mentioned another Eurocode product, the HFIP.

Gotcha. I just did some research and it's making a bit more sense now (though not too much info out there on this specific scenario of stepping up for the IC and back down on the way out). I don't think the actual outlet size will matter too much since I'll be immediately stepping back down to 2.25". Switching to 3" all around would definitely kill the spool time, but just having the extra few inches of larger pipe size on each side of the intercooler can probably just be wrapped into the intercooler volume. If intercooler volume were a huge factor than the guys with the TR11 probably wouldn't be as happy with their results.

[dscline]

If intercooler volume were a huge factor than the guys with the TR11 probably wouldn't be as happy with their results.

Intercooler volume (plus the volume of all the piping from the turbo down) does affect response. Perhaps the guys with the TR11 are just more concerned with top end performance than throttle response. Just depends on what you're after.

[lettuce]

Intercooler volume (plus the volume of all the piping from the turbo down) does affect response. Perhaps the guys with the TR11 are just more concerned with top end performance than throttle response. Just depends on what you're after.

Or they don't really have anything to compare it to. I don't think anyone here really has the luxury of going out and getting the TR6, TR8, and TR11 to compare. Plus while I certainly agree with you that it makes a difference and is why I went with the TR8, it's probably not a very big one so I doubt many people are very discerning and would notice or even care.

[asfastas63]

Intercooler volume (plus the volume of all the piping from the turbo down) does affect response. Perhaps the guys with the TR11 are just more concerned with top end performance than throttle response. Just depends on what you're after.

Ready for some back of the napkin math with wild assumptions? So I found this link (http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/328389-another-day-dyno-testing-buschur-s-rs.html) with dyno testing between a few different IC setups. Check out Run 2 to Run 3 where the only change is going from 2.5" pipe to 3" piping all around. This could be way off but I assumed 4 feet of intercooler piping, which means increasing the tube diameter by .5" would account for ~104in^3 of added volume. This accounted for a loss of 7hp, 6ft/lbs of torque, and affected the RPM required to hit 20lbs of boost by 59. Lets normalize this to a loss of HP of 1.08% and a loss of torque of 1.18% since this evo is making crazy crazy hp.

Conveniently, the difference in core size between a TR8 and a TR11 is ~109in^3, so pretty darn close! Just for kicks using STGII APR numbers and the power loss percentages from the evo testing, this would equate to a loss of ~3hp and ~5ft/lbs of torque. Obviously this is based on wild assumptions from a completely different motor, and not taking into account any added cooling gains from the larger core, but I think it's enough for me to say it probably doesn't matter.

[poweredbyaudi7]

Ready for some back of the napkin math with wild assumptions? So I found this link (http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/328389-another-day-dyno-testing-buschur-s-rs.html) with dyno testing between a few different IC setups. Check out Run 2 to Run 3 where the only change is going from 2.5" pipe to 3" piping all around. This could be way off but I assumed 4 feet of intercooler piping, which means increasing the tube diameter by .5" would account for ~104in^3 of added volume. This accounted for a loss of 7hp, 6ft/lbs of torque, and affected the RPM required to hit 20lbs of boost by 59. Lets normalize this to a loss of HP of 1.08% and a loss of torque of 1.18% since this evo is making crazy crazy hp.

Conveniently, the difference in core size between a TR8 and a TR11 is ~109in^3, so pretty darn close! Just for kicks using STGII APR numbers and the power loss percentages from the evo testing, this would equate to a loss of ~3hp and ~5ft/lbs of torque. Obviously this is based on wild assumptions from a completely different motor, and not taking into account any added cooling gains from the larger core, but I think it's enough for me to say it probably doesn't matter.

The significant difference between this argument is where the volume is being added, as you said about not taking into account the benifit of thicker core. The act of adding the volume in the piping would put more "cooled" air in the pipe that could gain in temp while traveling into the manifold. Where as if the volume is added to the core, it is essentially adding more cold air to the equation. I am by far not an engineer, so does this make sense?

[dscline]

Check out Run 2 to Run 3 where the only change is going from 2.5" pipe to 3" piping all around. ... This accounted for a loss of 7hp, 6ft/lbs of torque, and affected the RPM required to hit 20lbs of boost by 59. Lets normalize this to a loss of HP of 1.08% and a loss of torque of 1.18%.
I didn't read that whole thread, so I don't know the setup. If the car had, for example, a 2.5" throttle body, it's possible that an aerodynamically poor transition at that point could hurt performance. It's also possible that a change in intake pipe volume could adversely affect intake harmonics. But beyond small details like that, I can't think of any logical reason for larger piping to hurt top end performance. Response, yes, top-end HP, no. So it's also possible that the 1% loss observed is simply within the tolerance of the variances typical in dyno runs.


Conveniently, the difference in core size between a TR8 and a TR11 is ~109in^3, so pretty darn close! Just for kicks using STGII APR numbers and the power loss percentages from the evo testing, this would equate to a loss of ~3hp and ~5ft/lbs of torque. Obviously this is based on wild assumptions from a completely different motor, and not taking into account any added cooling gains from the larger core, but I think it's enough for me to say it probably doesn't matter.
Yeah, you can't really compare the two since generally the gains provided by the intercooler FAR outweigh the detriments. I'll stand by the notion that generally speaking, increasing intercooler capacity will, to an extent, increase top end performance, while increasing intercooler volume will hurt response.

But I think people also often gloss over the finer details (often because they aren't available). You can have two 8L intercoolers that perform very differently. Differences in internal fin structure can cause one to have better heat transfer ability at the expense of more pressure drop. Even with the same bar design, you can have twice as many bars that are half as long, which will give much lower pressure drop but also less heat transfer, since the velocity in each tube is half as much. But people tend to just look at these and think bigger is better.

[blbroo]

If there was a TR8/TR11 complete kit available, would anyone be interested? I bet it would come out under $400 with everything. Probably a good deal less if there was a bulk buy.

[Lambda13]

If there was a TR8/TR11 complete kit available, would anyone be interested? I bet it would come out under $400 with everything. Probably a good deal less if there was a bulk buy.

It could be any of their intercoolers for the most part. We can piece it all together.

[zokissima]

I've been really following this tread avidly, trying to make an informed decision without dropping any (more) money. I'm allready running the TDI intercooler, which is a 8L core. The TR8 and TR11 discussed are 9.8L and 11.6L cores respectively. I am currently at stock power levels, with the TDI intercooler. However, I'll be installing a k04, with associated power increase. I'm trying to determine which intercooler upgrade is best of the TR8 or 11, or even go for a du88 intercooler at 13.8L volume. Price-wise the du88 is very comparable to Treadstone. What do you guys think?

[zcspec]

I've been really following this tread avidly, trying to make an informed decision without dropping any (more) money. I'm allready running the TDI intercooler, which is a 8L core. The TR8 and TR11 discussed are 9.8L and 11.6L cores respectively. I am currently at stock power levels, with the TDI intercooler. However, I'll be installing a k04, with associated power increase. I'm trying to determine which intercooler upgrade is best of the TR8 or 11, or even go for a du88 intercooler at 13.8L volume. Price-wise the du88 is very comparable to Treadstone. What do you guys think?

I am installing the TR8 this weekend. For my application (this summer Stage 2 on e85) is plenty enough of cooling. Most of the TR guys here believe that the IC works just as good as the higher end ICs costing 2 to 4 times as much. Only you can determine if your wallet believes that the negligible difference is worth the extra cost. For me, for the cost of a "Audi made, name brand" IC, I can get a TR8 or TR11, and a HFC and do the entire install myself.

[S4_SH1640]

let me ask you guys a question...

Did all of you guys do the INTERCOOLER AIR CHARGE PIPE DAMPENER delete? What is the point of this thing? If you go with a bigger intercooler, do we need to have it? Whats the benefit? Thanks

[blbroo]

let me ask you guys a question...

Did all of you guys do the INTERCOOLER AIR CHARGE PIPE DAMPENER delete? What is the point of this thing? If you go with a bigger intercooler, do we need to have it? Whats the benefit? Thanks

I think it is just to cut down on cool noises.

Mine is on a shelf in my garage


.

[Mr.Audi]

I'd like to run the tdi a7 fmic


Sent from ....

[S4_SH1640]

I think it is just to cut down on cool noises.

Mine is on a shelf in my garage


.


That's what i thought. But then i saw a sensor connected to the Plastic pipe. How did you bypass that?

[lettuce]

That's what i thought. But then i saw a sensor connected to the Plastic pipe. How did you bypass that?

You mean the big plastic pipe that's over 2 inches in diameter and connects your throttle body to your intercooler hose? Yeah, I wouldn't try to delete that if I were you.

The sound box you're referring to is a little round plastic box, maybe 7"x7", a couple inches thick and is attached to your charge pipe with a short little rubber hose that's maybe an inch and a half in diameter. That's what you'll want to delete. There are no sensors or anything attached to that, so all you have to do is plug the hole it leaves in your charge pipe.

[Dub_prime]

One of the best mods so far on my car was the EC hose kit and turbo muffler delete, of course I'm not chipped yet either

[Mr.Audi]

Yea I did the hi flow fmic pipe , and turbo muffler delete.
(With intake) I love the sound an responsiveness
I wanna look more into the a7 fmic as an Oem + solution would be awesome
Also, is the silicone hose kit worth it?


Sent from ....

[S4_SH1640]

You mean the big plastic pipe that's over 2 inches in diameter and connects your throttle body to your intercooler hose? Yeah, I wouldn't try to delete that if I were you.

The sound box you're referring to is a little round plastic box, maybe 7"x7", a couple inches thick and is attached to your charge pipe with a short little rubber hose that's maybe an inch and a half in diameter. That's what you'll want to delete. There are no sensors or anything attached to that, so all you have to do is plug the hole it leaves in your charge pipe.


Now i understand it better. Gotcha, thanks.

[zcspec]

Add another member to the TR family. With the help of a buddy of mine, we got the TR8 in and on e85, the AR is definitely a monster now.

[Dub_prime]

Yea I did the hi flow fmic pipe , and turbo muffler delete.
(With intake) I love the sound an responsiveness
I wanna look more into the a7 fmic as an Oem + solution would be awesome
Also, is the silicone hose kit worth it?


Sent from ....

The hoses themselves probably not, but I got them as a package deal. I will be going the TR8 route as soon as I can get the money together.

[zokissima]

Yea I did the hi flow fmic pipe , and turbo muffler delete.
(With intake) I love the sound an responsiveness
I wanna look more into the a7 fmic as an Oem + solution would be awesome
Also, is the silicone hose kit worth it?


Sent from ....

If you're willing to wait a month or two, I'll sell you my A7 TDI FMIC for dirt cheap, it's only been on the car for less than 10k miles, and I'll be swapping it out soon for a TR18C.

[S4_SH1640]

If you're willing to wait a month or two, I'll sell you my A7 TDI FMIC for dirt cheap, it's only been on the car for less than 10k miles, and I'll be swapping it out soon for a TR18C.

Lmk when you sell it, i may want it. lol

[Mr.Audi]

If you're willing to wait a month or two, I'll sell you my A7 TDI FMIC for dirt cheap, it's only been on the car for less than 10k miles, and I'll be swapping it out soon for a TR18C.

Message me when it's off. PayPal ready


Sent from ....

[lettuce]

I have a spare 3.0 TDI intercooler I'd be willing to part with to anyone in the Boston area (don't want to ship). It's the A4 3.0 TDI FMIC with the plastic end tanks. Not the A7 with the metal end tanks. Only used it for like 3k miles. Looking for $100 even.

[S4_SH1640]

You mean the big plastic pipe that's over 2 inches in diameter and connects your throttle body to your intercooler hose? Yeah, I wouldn't try to delete that if I were you.

The sound box you're referring to is a little round plastic box, maybe 7"x7", a couple inches thick and is attached to your charge pipe with a short little rubber hose that's maybe an inch and a half in diameter. That's what you'll want to delete. There are no sensors or anything attached to that, so all you have to do is plug the hole it leaves in your charge pipe.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fernco-QWIK-CAP-QC-102-2-RUBBER-PIPE-CAP-WITH-HOSE-CLAMP-/151949279967?hash=item2360e202df:g:4bgAAOSwa39UsHd v

Is this something i can use to plug the hole that leaves the charge pipe once i remove the "sound box" thing. ??

[lettuce]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fernco-QWIK-CAP-QC-102-2-RUBBER-PIPE-CAP-WITH-HOSE-CLAMP-/151949279967?hash=item2360e202df:g:4bgAAOSwa39UsHd v

Is this something i can use to plug the hole that leaves the charge pipe once i remove the "sound box" thing. ??

Something like that could work (that one specifically is too big), but it'd be easier, quicker and cheaper to just head down to your local hardware store and get a pack of rubber chair leg stoppers. That was recommended to me by user blbroo here and it works great. Just make sure you get ones with exactly 1" inside diameter. It's a snug fit but that's what you want.

Here's a pic of mine:

https://i.imgur.com/zvmlcrw.jpg

[S4_SH1640]

Something like that could work (that one specifically is too big), but it'd be easier, quicker and cheaper to just head down to your local hardware store and get a pack of rubber chair leg stoppers. That was recommended to me by user blbroo here and it works great. Just make sure you get ones with exactly 1" inside diameter. It's a snug fit but that's what you want.

Here's a pic of mine:

https://i.imgur.com/zvmlcrw.jpg

Thanks.

The Hole to block is 1inch? I thought i read somewhere that it was 1.5 inches. Will shop around for that, or something similar to plug it the way you did.

[lettuce]

Thanks.

The Hole to block is 1inch? I thought i read somewhere that it was 1.5 inches. Will shop around for that, or something similar to plug it the way you did.

Yes, it's 1". The 1" ID cap I got couldn't have fit better.

[Mod.Kill.Yut.]

I simultaneously love and hate this place. Always tons of great info but also so terrible for my wallet.

Boomtime, do you still have that EC kit for sale? Running K04 and need to get an FMiC before summer


The Eurocode HFIP is 2.25" diameter whereas the Eurocode FMIC is 2.5" diameter.
They are not compatible with each other.
Also the Eurocode TruFit silicone intercooler hoses are 2.25" and are designed to work with the stock B8 FMIC and the HFIP.

To use the Eurocode FMIC you need a 2.5" piping kit.

I have for sale both the Eurocode FMIC and 2.5" hard pipe kit with all hardware and SS t-bolt clamps :) for B8/B8.5

The main point here is the HFIP is 2.25"


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[boomtime]

Yup i still got it for sale. Its a good intercooler. :)


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[Mod.Kill.Yut.]

Pm sent


Yup i still got it for sale. Its a good intercooler. :)


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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[asfastas63]

Got the TR8C on today, fits great, the tubing fits like a kit made for this car. Had some fun trying to make mounts from scraps around the garage. Went a slightly different route and used two 90* brackets and mounted straight through the crash bar. Can't see any of it from the front, never mind with the nose back on. There is some slight interference with the line on the drivers side but not enough to cause worry.

I'm still on stock tuning from having oil consumption work done this winter, so I'll have to check back in when I'm back to stage 2 apr, but there is definitely noticeable affect. Feels like the motor is breathing much better, pulls hard through 6k and lots of happy noises coming from the under the hood.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/3f9ecb205ae503f1dcb2e097caa2b08d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/45598c2a3a83156c1e5fcd04fb368901.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/594c9baba8e09b210c585d205b99386d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/68bc2cec0b4536a4137f9cc37c78cb04.jpg

[Rinaldi]

Anyone have input on the CTS IC? A local shop has one someone ordered they would sell me for $600 plus install.

[poweredbyaudi7]

Anyone have input on the CTS IC? A local shop has one someone ordered they would sell me for $600 plus install.

Install yourself homie. It is extremely easy. Follow the instructions on ECS's site to pull the bumper cover. Then the FMIC just unbolts and pulls off.

[zcspec]

Nice intall on the TR8C. Mine's been in now for 3-4 weeks and on e85, it's deceptively quick with the ZF8 on the AR. @ Rinaldi, definitely do it yourself. Taking the bumper off the first time will be the most challenging part of the install but it's completely manageable. Save yourself the install fee.

[Rinaldi]

Is the install a simple plug and play?

[zcspec]

Is the install a simple plug and play?

Not the TR8, it's a build it yourself kit that's very affordable with excellent results. The CTS kit you referred to earlier, IS a plug and play.

[zcspec]

There's been discussion about air compression volume and how much is needed for the power's application. After crunching some numbers, I figured that per 1 liter = 61.9in(3) volume of air and it's guesstimated that per 100hp requires 3 liter of compression air space.

Here are examples:

OEM is 357.5in(3) or 5.77L
TR8 is 596.75in(3) or 9.64L
CTS is 675in(3) or 10.9L
APR is 801.9in(3) or 12.54L

and so forth...We can see why the OEM intercooler can't keep up with APR's Stage 1/2 stated power.

[blbroo]

There's been discussion about air compression volume and how much is needed for the power's application. After crunching some numbers, I figured that per 1 liter = 61.9in(3) volume of air and it's guesstimated that per 100hp requires 3 liter of compression air space.

Here are examples:

OEM is 357.5in(3) or 5.77L
TR8 is 596.75in(3) or 9.64L
CTS is 675in(3) or 10.9L
APR is 801.9in(3) or 12.54L

and so forth...We can see why the OEM intercooler can't keep up with APR's Stage 1/2 stated power.

Lambda13 went with the TR11, which is 709 in(3) or 11.45L. FYI

[Lambda13]

I have a spare 3.0 TDI intercooler I'd be willing to part with to anyone in the Boston area (don't want to ship). It's the A4 3.0 TDI FMIC with the plastic end tanks. Not the A7 with the metal end tanks. Only used it for like 3k miles. Looking for $100 even.

If you sell it to me I'll ship it for $150 [;)] lol

[Dub_prime]

Got the TR8C on today, fits great, the tubing fits like a kit made for this car. Had some fun trying to make mounts from scraps around the garage. Went a slightly different route and used two 90* brackets and mounted straight through the crash bar. Can't see any of it from the front, never mind with the nose back on. There is some slight interference with the line on the drivers side but not enough to cause worry.

I'm still on stock tuning from having oil consumption work done this winter, so I'll have to check back in when I'm back to stage 2 apr, but there is definitely noticeable affect. Feels like the motor is breathing much better, pulls hard through 6k and lots of happy noises coming from the under the hood.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/3f9ecb205ae503f1dcb2e097caa2b08d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/45598c2a3a83156c1e5fcd04fb368901.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/594c9baba8e09b210c585d205b99386d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/68bc2cec0b4536a4137f9cc37c78cb04.jpg

I really like that, but iffy about the 2.25 to 3 tradition on the piping. Wonder what if any impact that would have on flow?

[zcspec]

I really like that, but iffy about the 2.25 to 3 tradition on the piping. Wonder what if any impact that would have on flow?

That is the TR8, which has 2.5" inlet/outlet endtanks. I don't think flow would be the main concern, rather the IATs would be.

[Dub_prime]

That is the TR8, which has 2.5" inlet/outlet endtanks. I don't think flow would be the main concern, rather the IATs would be.

Yeah it's 2.5".

[lettuce]

That is the TR8, which has 2.5" inlet/outlet endtanks. I don't think flow would be the main concern, rather the IATs would be.

I didn't buy the TR8C so I'm just going off the online specs, but the TR8C differs from the TR8 in that its center inlets are 3" as opposed to the 2.5 of the normal TR8.

https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68233&cat_key=63&prodname=TR8C+Intercooler++500HP

That being said in regards to the other post about it possibly being detrimental to airflow, I can't see why it'd be much of an issue. Seems like it'd be a negligible amount of extra volume. You gotta consider that the end tanks are basically doing the same thing, expanding whatever size the inlet is to the size of the IC. Starting the step-up from the 2.25" diameter stock pipes to the 7.8"x3.5" side of the IC core earlier would only make the transition smoother.

[blbroo]

I didn't buy the TR8C so I'm just going off the online specs, but the TR8C differs from the TR8 in that its center inlets are 3" as opposed to the 2.5 of the normal TR8.

https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68233&cat_key=63&prodname=TR8C+Intercooler++500HP

That being said in regards to the other post about it possibly being detrimental to airflow, I can't see why it'd be much of an issue. Seems like it'd be a negligible amount of extra volume. You gotta consider that the end tanks are basically doing the same thing, expanding whatever size the inlet is to the size of the IC. Starting the step-up from the 2.25" diameter stock pipes to the 7.8"x3.5" side of the IC core earlier would only make the transition smoother.

That


#pedalresponce

[asfastas63]

I didn't buy the TR8C so I'm just going off the online specs, but the TR8C differs from the TR8 in that its center inlets are 3" as opposed to the 2.5 of the normal TR8.

https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68233&cat_key=63&prodname=TR8C+Intercooler++500HP

That being said in regards to the other post about it possibly being detrimental to airflow, I can't see why it'd be much of an issue. Seems like it'd be a negligible amount of extra volume. You gotta consider that the end tanks are basically doing the same thing, expanding whatever size the inlet is to the size of the IC. Starting the step-up from the 2.25" diameter stock pipes to the 7.8"x3.5" side of the IC core earlier would only make the transition smoother.

Correct, I got the C version on eBay for a steal and then right after paying realized the outlets were bigger. Probably why someone was selling it brand new.

I got the hoses from the same source posted but just got 3" to 2.25" instead of the 2.5" to 2.25" and the fit was flawless. Given the choice I would probably go with the regular tr8 because it will get the hoses out of the way of that one line on the right in the picture.

As far as the larger outlet hose size, I think it's probably irrelevant, the 2.25" all around will take precedence over the core inlets. I would say the throttle response is better than stock, and once the revs start climbing, the reduced pressure drop lets it breathe much easier. I'm on stock tune and with this, the turbo inlet pipe, afe filter, and the sound box deleted it feels like my old stage 2. I'll report back next week when I get flashed back to stage 2. Hopefully I don't blow any hoses off.

[Dub_prime]

Didn't really think that through, but makes a lot of sense. What line is in the way? Powersteering?

[Jacon]

Anyone have input on the CTS IC? A local shop has one someone ordered they would sell me for $600 plus install.

I have the CTS and it works well. I'm on Stg II so there isn't a lot of difference in the ICs unless you're pushing bigger HP numbers. I logged the CTS a few months ago at 72F and it performed surprisingly well after 6 consecutive runs in 3rd gear.

[Dub_prime]

Finally installed my TR8 last Friday and it took far longer than I expected, mainly because I am so OCD about details. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/d12a0708649c9473ab32bde79676aefe.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/203ca23bb5ddb78bfeec8f5c8df25fc1.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/34006538279f350973947821b1c95ba5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/8ef2bc15afb14e44f489c5b17de12adc.jpg
I bought a 1/16" aluminum angle cut to 6" lengths ($5.77 for 36" at Home Depot and $2 in bolts). I only drilled through the backside of the bumper and put a serrated backed nut inside the bumper along with a serrated bolt through the bumper. It's not moving anywhere and that allowed it to be about 2" or so further back than mounting it flush with the bumper.

I have to say I am impressed with the performance, with all the reviews I wasn't expecting much on a stock tune, but this thing is awesome. With the full eurocode hose kit and the HFIP installed along side it she pulls all the way to redline now, no pause at 5k and falling in its face with the stock piece. I also took a spirited run on the high way last night and when I got to 85-90 it was as if a switch flipped and I was spraying nitrous or something it was accelerating so quickly it felt like I had a tune.

I really don't know how you could justify spending $1000+ on the other ready made kits when this cost $285 for everything I needed to get the intercooler on shipped to my door. If the wrenching scares you or measuring and drilling isn't your thing and you are willing to fork out that much for something that with perform about the same as this I understand, but this is the best bang for the buck mod aside from a tune you can do.

Edited for bolt sizes: the intercooler bolts are M8 X 16mm. You can use any size you want for the crash bar, but I used 1/4" X 20 x 3/8" and a 1/4" X 20 bolt. Make sure they are all serrated flange bolts and they should hold really well.

[blbroo]

Nice install and review! I'm glad this worked out as well for others as it did for me, when I barely knew what I was doing, a year ago.

[Dnovakovic04]

So I installed the 3.0tdi intercooler yesterday. Was a lot easier of an install than I thought! Was worried about putting the stock hoses on, but was able to hear them up a bit and then they popped right on! Getting a GIAC tune next week finally!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160422/082ecab7ab78f944c395a4737500a80d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160422/5936c4b366d5029a211f6215bb4c439c.jpg

I did run into one issue! Looks like my core support cracked right at the passenger side. Helps hold the radiator and ic up and in place. Definitely need to get this fixed... I know it's a hard install but wondering if anyone knows where I can find one for cheap? I don't know why Audi made this plastic....

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160422/685960521fcb59dd327a72056f18de6d.jpg


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[Mod.Kill.Yut.]

Any k04 guys installed the EC FMIC? What were the measurements for the step down silicone adapter? Eurocode is out of stock and I want to pick one up from my local parts store. Thanks in advance!


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[Demringstho864]

I hate to bring something up from the dead but I do have some questions. I have been going back and forth between the TR8 and the TR11. I see some people are running the TR11 with no issues. But I'm wondering is it possible to have a intercooler that is too big ? Would a TR8 be "safer" or would there be no difference. The TR8 and TR11 come with a 2.50" inlet and outlet. Would it be beneficial to run a 2.50" intercooler piping. But then would be choked back down at the HFIC pipe which is 2.25" unless if I made one out of 2.50" and made a spot for the map sensor. Is the 2.25" factory size good enough. I have read on some post that some people have installed the silicone IC pipes with a turbo muffler delete. Some like them some don't. I don't have them so I can't post a opinion on them. But would consider getting them. I have read of a 200 rpm faster spool time. Which isn't huge but it is a difference. I'm just trying to build the best budget but function system I can. Plan on doing apr stage 2 , test pipe, gfb dv+, meth injection. I don't have a problem with spending money on a pre fabbed system but spending 1000 bucks on something I can build for half the price is kinda outrageous. I just want some honest real world opinions.

[NLPed68]

^^^Just an FWIW, I bought my EC FMIC kit on the classifieds for $500 with all the assundry parts/pieces and that included shipping. If you keep an eye out they pop up fairly regularly. There's one on the A5 classifieds right now for $550 I believe.

[Dub_prime]

I hate to bring something up from the dead but I do have some questions. I have been going back and forth between the TR8 and the TR11. I see some people are running the TR11 with no issues. But I'm wondering is it possible to have a intercooler that is too big ? Would a TR8 be "safer" or would there be no difference. The TR8 and TR11 come with a 2.50" inlet and outlet. Would it be beneficial to run a 2.50" intercooler piping. But then would be choked back down at the HFIC pipe which is 2.25" unless if I made one out of 2.50" and made a spot for the map sensor. Is the 2.25" factory size good enough. I have read on some post that some people have installed the silicone IC pipes with a turbo muffler delete. Some like them some don't. I don't have them so I can't post a opinion on them. But would consider getting them. I have read of a 200 rpm faster spool time. Which isn't huge but it is a difference. I'm just trying to build the best budget but function system I can. Plan on doing apr stage 2 , test pipe, gfb dv+, meth injection. I don't have a problem with spending money on a pre fabbed system but spending 1000 bucks on something I can build for half the price is kinda outrageous. I just want some honest real world opinions.

Read my review, most others have capped the sound box. I have the full ecode hose kit with the turbo muffler delete, and HFIP. The hoses themselves are a waste of money, but the turbo muffler and HFIP are great if you can get them used, I wouldn't pay retail. On my stock tuned car I don't see a big difference in spool, but do have better midrange and top end power, which is what you would expect from better flow. I could see a tuned car have a noticeable difference in low end power due to that same increase in flow.

[asfastas63]

I hate to bring something up from the dead but I do have some questions. I have been going back and forth between the TR8 and the TR11. I see some people are running the TR11 with no issues. But I'm wondering is it possible to have a intercooler that is too big ? Would a TR8 be "safer" or would there be no difference. The TR8 and TR11 come with a 2.50" inlet and outlet. Would it be beneficial to run a 2.50" intercooler piping. But then would be choked back down at the HFIC pipe which is 2.25" unless if I made one out of 2.50" and made a spot for the map sensor. Is the 2.25" factory size good enough. I have read on some post that some people have installed the silicone IC pipes with a turbo muffler delete. Some like them some don't. I don't have them so I can't post a opinion on them. But would consider getting them. I have read of a 200 rpm faster spool time. Which isn't huge but it is a difference. I'm just trying to build the best budget but function system I can. Plan on doing apr stage 2 , test pipe, gfb dv+, meth injection. I don't have a problem with spending money on a pre fabbed system but spending 1000 bucks on something I can build for half the price is kinda outrageous. I just want some honest real world opinions.

I think the difference between the stock intercooler and TR8 will get you 99% of the way there, and if the TR11 really is any better it probably won't be noticeable/ that big of a difference. I would go the tr8 just based on ease of mounting, I have no idea how those guys fit the 11 in there.

I wouldn't worry about trying to go to 2.5" pipes all around, APR has shown us that with stock hoses and an upgraded IC fueling is the limiting factor for hp.

The hfip probably isn't worth it (over just removing the airbox and capping the tube) until you go to meth which may degrade the life of the plug.

[A4x]

Read my review, most others have capped the sound box. I have the full ecode hose kit with the turbo muffler delete, and HFIP. The hoses themselves are a waste of money, but the turbo muffler and HFIP are great if you can get them used, I wouldn't pay retail. On my stock tuned car I don't see a big difference in spool, but do have better midrange and top end power, which is what you would expect from better flow. I could see a tuned car have a noticeable difference in low end power due to that same increase in flow.


I think the difference between the stock intercooler and TR8 will get you 99% of the way there, and if the TR11 really is any better it probably won't be noticeable/ that big of a difference. I would go the tr8 just based on ease of mounting, I have no idea how those guys fit the 11 in there.

I wouldn't worry about trying to go to 2.5" pipes all around, APR has shown us that with stock hoses and an upgraded IC fueling is the limiting factor for hp.

The hfip probably isn't worth it (over just removing the airbox and capping the tube) until you go to meth which may degrade the life of the plug.

What's the difference between the silicon intercooler pipes and the HFIP? Is the HFIP just the one from intercooler to intake manifold? Is the silicon intercooler pipe kit all the other pipes except that one? [confused]

[Demringstho864]

What's the difference between the silicon intercooler pipes and the HFIP? Is the HFIP just the one from intercooler to intake manifold? Is the silicon intercooler pipe kit all the other pipes except that one? [confused]

The silicone pipes are the hoses that replace your factory rubber hoses. The hfip replaces the plastic hard pipe that has "sound box" on it. I did the delete and I had a cap completely disintegrate and blow off which really fuc*ed up my day after work 17 hours trying to get home. Its a great mod. But I think the super cold from last winter took its toll on cheap cap I had

[Marko S]

What's the difference between the silicon intercooler pipes and the HFIP? Is the HFIP just the one from intercooler to intake manifold? Is the silicon intercooler pipe kit all the other pipes except that one? [confused]
I have both the hoses and the hfip. The hoses look nice but i really dont see how they can make any difference over the stock one (and i believe forge also has a set of ic hoses). The hfip is also well built but deleting the sound box (which i did before i bought it) has basically the same effect.

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[ToddBrunswick]

I hate to bring something up from the dead but I do have some questions. I have been going back and forth between the TR8 and the TR11. I see some people are running the TR11 with no issues. But I'm wondering is it possible to have a intercooler that is too big ? Would a TR8 be "safer" or would there be no difference. The TR8 and TR11 come with a 2.50" inlet and outlet. Would it be beneficial to run a 2.50" intercooler piping. But then would be choked back down at the HFIC pipe which is 2.25" unless if I made one out of 2.50" and made a spot for the map sensor. Is the 2.25" factory size good enough. I have read on some post that some people have installed the silicone IC pipes with a turbo muffler delete. Some like them some don't. I don't have them so I can't post a opinion on them. But would consider getting them. I have read of a 200 rpm faster spool time. Which isn't huge but it is a difference. I'm just trying to build the best budget but function system I can. Plan on doing apr stage 2 , test pipe, gfb dv+, meth injection. I don't have a problem with spending money on a pre fabbed system but spending 1000 bucks on something I can build for half the price is kinda outrageous. I just want some honest real world opinions.

There is a good rebroo on silicone intercooler hoses and turbo muffler delete here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/670660-My-B8-A4-mod-rebroos/page5) Post #174.

[blbroo]

I have both the hoses and the hfip. The hoses look nice but i really dont see how they can make any difference over the stock one (and i believe forge also has a set of ic hoses). The hfip is also well built but deleting the sound box (which i did before i bought it) has basically the same effect.

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I have the CTS hoses and the turbo muffler delete. I noticed no gain in performance or sound from these. $189 wasted, in my opinion.

Todd referenced my review.

[Marko S]

I have the CTS hoses and the turbo muffler delete. I noticed no gain in performance or sound from these. $189 wasted, in my opinion.

Todd referenced my review.
Yeah i know and totally agree.

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[Necc]

I got the TR8 standar version for my A4 B8 stage 2 as an upgrade from the 3.0TDI OEM.

The AIT are great, no more than 10-12º over ambient pulling hard but the car has more lag now, especially till 3000rpm... thoughs?

With the 3.0TDI pulls harder even with higher temps.

[kayroccs]

Just curious, has anyone bought Ecstuning intercooler without their charge pipes and used blbroo's tutorial hoses for the Tr8 cooler and combined both?

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[Spawne32]

Just curious, has anyone bought Ecstuning intercooler without their charge pipes and used blbroo's tutorial hoses for the Tr8 cooler and combined both?

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I did two days ago lol its on a minor backorder though, wont ship until the 6th. It comes with two reducers and I bought two vibrant aluminum joiners to attach it to the OEM hoses. Ill post up some pics once I get it installed.

[kayroccs]

I did two days ago lol its on a minor backorder though, wont ship until the 6th. It comes with two reducers and I bought two vibrant aluminum joiners to attach it to the OEM hoses. Ill post up some pics once I get it installed.
Wow can't wait to see and hear your experience. Looking forward to doing this mod as well.

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[shonseb]

I had the cts intercooler kit on before I had problems with their charge pipe. Because of that reason alone I cannot recommend them, but I will say I feel it performed better than my stock ic system and better than my current apr intercooler in terms of turbo lag. I had the apr turbo muffler on as well too. I'm hoping this was because of the charge pipe and sound box delete, so I purchased a EC charge pipe and Forge ic piping. I know the forge won't a real difference what so ever, but I did notice the stock piping would almost seem collapsed or partially sucked in at idle because of the negative pressure. I wanted something firmer and so I purchased the piping. Will be installing soon and I'll report my findings

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[red4life5]

Most of the intercoolers on here are good intercoolers but not the best. I want a company with real R&D to it such as APR or IE. The flow distribution system that IE created makes use of the whole intercoolers at higher speeds instead of all the air going straight through and not using the whole capacity of the cooler. I would recommend trying to find companies like that for all big mods instead of looking for a cheap option or so forth


2010 A4 S-Line Prestige

[Spawne32]

IE by far has the best designed intercooler on the market for the reasons listed, but i cannot justify the price of some of these units on a car I may wind up just selling in a few years to upgrade to a different model. Unless you are planning on spending the money for things like a turbo upgrade or other supporting performance mods, the 250 dollar price tag of the ECS intercooler alone cannot be beat for the performance.

[Poodini]

IE by far has the best designed intercooler on the market for the reasons listed, but i cannot justify the price of some of these units on a car I may wind up just selling in a few years to upgrade to a different model. Unless you are planning on spending the money for things like a turbo upgrade or other supporting performance mods, the 250 dollar price tag of the ECS intercooler alone cannot be beat for the performance.

AMEN!

couldn't have said it better. I've been running APR Stage 2 with a 3.0t IC mod for several months now and it's been rock solid. Responds consistently to throttle from stationary on through the gears, no issues. Should the time/K04 present itself that I do the deed, I'll most likely go with ECS's or a TR-8/8L which I'm sure will be more than adequate to mate up with the bigger turbo. I just can't justify some of these big FMIC prices though..ridiculous.

[Spawne32]

AMEN!

couldn't have said it better. I've been running APR Stage 2 with a 3.0t IC mod for several months now and it's been rock solid. Responds consistently to throttle from stationary on through the gears, no issues. Should the time/K04 present itself that I do the deed, I'll most likely go with ECS's or a TR-8/8L which I'm sure will be more than adequate to mate up with the bigger turbo. I just can't justify some of these big FMIC prices though..ridiculous.

I think the idea is that we drive audi's we have audi money. lmao

[bhuynh1804]

IE by far has the best designed intercooler on the market for the reasons listed, but i cannot justify the price of some of these units on a car I may wind up just selling in a few years to upgrade to a different model. Unless you are planning on spending the money for things like a turbo upgrade or other supporting performance mods, the 250 dollar price tag of the ECS intercooler alone cannot be beat for the performance.

+1 for IE intercooler, best system there is on the market.

[Necc]

Yeah, IE intercooler seems to be pretty good.

Did you notice any lag comparing with the stock one?

[AUDacIouS4]

The stock intercooler is barely adequate for stock boost levels. It's a POS!! Plastic end caps, ultra thin tube and fin design, it weighs almost nothing and the pressure drop across the core is large. Intercoolers are far more important than most people realize. $750 for an intercooler is cheap!! My Process West TMIC for my subi was $1200.
How then did APR make 17whp on a stage 1 b8.5 A4 tune with only the addition of their intercooler?

When I used tune subaru's, intercooler upgrade were the first thing I recommended after a turbo back exhaust, you could run a solid 2* more timing across the board with cooler IAT'S .

Cooler IAT =more timing=more power

After my APR FMIC, there was no noticeable lag at all, my car got faster though. The IAT's are 20* above ambient, even when it's 85+ degrees out. The stock FMIC was usually keeping IAT at 40* above ambient. You might run less boost, but you'll be faster.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170602/f7d3e8b7fcce20b351d45bbd298714e7.jpg
Why blow hot air into the engine?

[lettuce]

The stock intercooler is barely adequate for stock boost levels. It's a POS!! Plastic end caps, ultra thin tube and fin design, it weighs almost nothing and the pressure drop across the core is large. Intercoolers are far more important than most people realize. $750 for an intercooler is cheap!! My Process West TMIC for my subi was $1200.
How then did APR make 17whp on a stage 1 b8.5 A4 tune with only the addition of their intercooler?

When I used tune subaru's, intercooler upgrade were the first thing I recommended after a turbo back exhaust, you could run a solid 2* more timing across the board with cooler IAT'S .

Cooler IAT =more timing=more power

After my APR FMIC, there was no noticeable lag at all, my car got faster though. The IAT's are 20* above ambient, even when it's 85+ degrees out. The stock FMIC was usually keeping IAT at 40* above ambient. You might run less boost, but you'll be faster.

Why blow hot air into the engine?

20 degrees over ambient for APR's $900 intercooler, that's a good deal.

Here are logs from my $250 Treadstone TR8 running 6-10 degrees over ambient on an 80+ degree day.

https://i.imgur.com/83VYoBu.png

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/659634-Lettuce-Build-Thread-Fast-Cars-and-Fast-Women-Stage-2-and-Beyond?p=11078437&viewfull=1#post11078437

Companies that have spent years specializing in a few, certain universal parts, like Treadstone does intercoolers, can charge much less for a comparable or better product than a company that has to do R&D for a one-off, application-specific product. Treadstone develops a few universal cores and has a market of.. every turbo car ever made. Easier to recoup costs and turn a profit that way. APR's sales for these FMICs is going to be a fraction of Treadstone's, so a much greater percentage of the money you're paying per piece is going towards recouping their R&D and other up-front production costs.

[AUDacIouS4]

20 degrees over ambient for APR's $900 intercooler, that's a good deal.

Here are logs from my $250 Treadstone TR8 running 6-10 degrees over ambient on an 80+ degree day.

https://i.imgur.com/83VYoBu.png

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/659634-Lettuce-Build-Thread-Fast-Cars-and-Fast-Women-Stage-2-and-Beyond?p=11078437&viewfull=1#post11078437

Companies that have spent years specializing in a few, certain universal parts, like Treadstone does intercoolers, can charge much less for a comparable or better product than a company that has to do R&D for a one-off, application-specific product. Treadstone develops a few universal cores and has a market of.. every turbo car ever made. Easier to recoup costs and turn a profit that way. APR's sales for these FMICs is going to be a fraction of Treadstone's, so a much greater percentage of the money you're paying per piece is going towards recouping their R&D and other up-front production costs.

^^that's debatable


I'm no APR fan boy, I run a GIAC tune, but I know a good product when I see one. So APR is incapable of making a good quality intercooler?
I bought my intercooler for $750 shipped. It came with brackets that are stainless steel and fitment was perfect. How much time was spent red neck engineering brackets for the Tr8 and Tr11? There is a lot of value in something that fits properly and won't be prone to rattling around or loosening up over time. I know, I've red- neck engineered plenty over the years.

You do know Treadstone intercoolers are almost Identical to the CX racing eBay China ones right? There are plenty of writups on the net with data.

What's amazing is that your $250 intercooler is somehow better at doing it's job than Bell, Garrett, Process West, Greddy, etc. Which all comparable units would cost well over a $1000.

Now repeat that 3rd gear pull 6 times in a row and report back please. APR showed colder than ambient after the first pull too. My IAT's represent a fully heat soaked engine and that's just an average guess. My IAT's drop much closer to ambient at times. And without knowing your boost levels and humidty, etc. It's not the whole picture. I'm at 25 psi tapering to 8-10 @ 6k on E85.

From your build thread

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170603/c13547fafd829def0abbd479ad24ef36.jpg

If your IAT's are that low, which I find hard to believe, then hats off to Treadstone.

[Dub_prime]

The APR unit looks solid, just like the other 3-4 manufacturers that look identical and advertise epic gains from an intercooler, for a complete kit that is an easy install it's good and I'm sure it performs admirably. Below ambient is never going to happen in the real world and if they advertise it you have to question the methodology of their testing, something had to be introduced to bring it below ambient. I'm not going for a big scientific argument here, but it just won't happen.
Most of the guys on here praise, and probably overpraise, the Treadstone kits because we like to wrench, and a couple of hours installing it is no big deal, my brackets were def not redneck engineering, precisely cut and measured. I've never said they were better than them per se I could just never justify spending 3-5 times the price for something with marginal gains.

[A4 Centaur]

Yea, I paid the APR surcharge and it was hefty.

Really had a tough time justifying the price. But after getting the K04-R I am glad a I have it.

Could have done the Treadstone, but didn't fell like another trip to Home Depot and certainly my experience with a lot of clamps has not been good.

I am glad the guys found the treadstone, because if and when I damage the APR FMIC, I don't plan on buying another. I'll get an inexpensive kit from Forge or Treadstone or other.

But the fitment of the APR FMIC was butter. Really slick piece.

[BIG_ROOSTER]

I think the idea is that we drive audi's we have audi money. lmao

This right here the Audi tax is almost as bad as the Apple tax.


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[lettuce]

What's amazing is that your $250 intercooler is somehow better at doing it's job than Bell, Garrett, Process West, Greddy, etc. Which all comparable units would cost well over a $1000.

If your IAT's are that low, which I find hard to believe, then hats off to Treadstone.

Yeah, it is pretty amazing. There's a reason they're so highly-touted on here. I dumped roughly $15k into my A4 in the first 18 months of ownership, this wasn't a 'cheap' solution I 'red necked' into my car for power on a budget. If I ever see any evidence that my car would perform better with a $1k intercooler on it then I'd buy one and put it in. Currently the fastest B8 A4 on pump gas runs a TR8 though so I'm not holding my breath.

[AUDacIouS4]

Lettuce,
Thanks for engaging in good discussion! for a second after I re-read my post earlier I was thinking to myself, "I wonder if this guy thinks I'm being a douche bag?"

I agree with what your saying. I think the higher $$ intercoolers show their benefit on the track as opposed to the dragstrip, and most definitely will benefit high HP applications. I bought a budget friendly TMIC for my Subaru and was disappointed so that's why I'm Leary of companies like Treadstone. But it appears like they make a good product.

[lettuce]

Lettuce,
Thanks for engaging in good discussion! for a second after I re-read my post earlier I was thinking to myself, "I wonder if this guy thinks I'm being a douche bag?"

I agree with what your saying. I think the higher $$ intercoolers show their benefit on the track as opposed to the dragstrip, and most definitely will benefit high HP applications. I bought a budget friendly TMIC for my Subaru and was disappointed so that's why I'm Leary of companies like Treadstone. But it appears like they make a good product.

No worries, I understand the hesitation some may have when seeing the price difference. I've bought a few things for my car that I decided I didn't like, was disappointed with, outgrew, etc, and ended up selling them, returning them, or even giving them away for free to some members on this forum, and made my opinions on these products known here. I have zero brand loyalty or personal attachment to anything on my car beyond the performance it gives me. This is the third intercooler I've had on my car, and if I didn't love it I'd be onto my fourth.

[Spawne32]

To your point though, there is nothing inherently complicated about intercooler cores. While Bell, Garrett, Process West, Greddy, etc. are all great cores, there is nothing stopping a company like treadstone from outsourcing the build process to china, using the same exact technology implemented in those cores that make them great. If we were talking about this in 1995, id grant you the fact that a garrett core would be far superior to any cheap core, but were talking about a technology that is old news now, and the manufacturing process has been simplified to the point where it costs pennies on the dollar to construct these things. Even the ECS intercooler which is 250 for the core kit, and 550 for the charging piping added in, uses a modern intercooler core that is superior to the OEM in every way, and is cheaper than every other brand on the market using the same outsourcing in manufacturing which brings the cost down for the consumer.

[slowone11]

I love my Wagner Tuning intercooler setup. Its huge but blends into the grille and you can't even tell it is there. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170603/5a8584a5723b7a82e9b2a44e5fdf32b0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170603/f402f052d5f03f79bc357c7e9525ef42.jpg

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[Spawne32]

Yeh i looked at the wagner as well, APR, wagner and IE seem to all use a similar design.

[slowone11]

Yeh i looked at the wagner as well, APR, wagner and IE seem to all use a similar design.
Wagner comes in black where most others are silver

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[Spawne32]

Wagner comes in black where most others are silver

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I want people to see my bigass intercooler :p

[slowone11]

I want people to see my bigass intercooler :p
Haha well to each their own. I like it when people have to look for whats done.

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[Necc]

I tested the TR8 and the AIT are really low.
The negative part is the added lag.
I haven't tested any other except the 3.0Tdi so I can't compared. That's why I always ask you about the lag you feel when you install an XL intercooler.

[kayroccs]

To your point though, there is nothing inherently complicated about intercooler cores. While Bell, Garrett, Process West, Greddy, etc. are all great cores, there is nothing stopping a company like treadstone from outsourcing the build process to china, using the same exact technology implemented in those cores that make them great. If we were talking about this in 1995, id grant you the fact that a garrett core would be far superior to any cheap core, but were talking about a technology that is old news now, and the manufacturing process has been simplified to the point where it costs pennies on the dollar to construct these things. Even the ECS intercooler which is 250 for the core kit, and 550 for the charging piping added in, uses a modern intercooler core that is superior to the OEM in every way, and is cheaper than every other brand on the market using the same outsourcing in manufacturing which brings the cost down for the consumer.
[emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]

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[S4_SH1640]

So my car is stock at the moment, and not looking to tune it any time soon, maybe in a year or two.

Should i get the TR8 or the 3.0tdi?


Is the TR8 a little much for a stock car?




as far as the 3.0tdi intercoolers... i have two options? one is the 3.0tdi A4 and two its from the A7 3.0? And these are slightly better than our B8 stock? will they hold fine with a stage 1 tune down the road?

[A4 Centaur]

Get the TR-8. The OEM TDI FMIC is garbage compared to Treadstone.

[Spawne32]

So my car is stock at the moment, and not looking to tune it any time soon, maybe in a year or two.

Should i get the TR8 or the 3.0tdi?


Is the TR8 a little much for a stock car?




as far as the 3.0tdi intercoolers... i have two options? one is the 3.0tdi A4 and two its from the A7 3.0? And these are slightly better than our B8 stock? will they hold fine with a stage 1 tune down the road?

ECS intercooler, by itself, why is this even a question anymore. lol

[Poodini]

ECS intercooler, by itself, why is this even a question anymore. lol

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170908/50db0dee495459dd25d535b920ee4608.jpg

AGREED! Best deal out there for a GOOD quality FMIC. Easy to install, well built, looks good, and gets the job done!



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[S4_SH1640]

With the ECS intercooler... i still need to purchase these, correct?
Since i dont have the charge pipes, just stock hoses.



Stainless Steel Hose Adapter Joiner Pipe Connector Silicone 57mm 2.25" (2)

2.5" STAINLESS STEEL SILICONE T-BOLT CLAMP (2)

2.25" STAINLESS STEEL SILICONE T-BOLT CLAMP (4)

2.5" to 2.25 inch 45 Degree Elbow Silicone Reducer Coupler Intake Pipe Black (2)

[Spawne32]

With the ECS intercooler... i still need to purchase these, correct?
Since i dont have the charge pipes, just stock hoses.



Stainless Steel Hose Adapter Joiner Pipe Connector Silicone 57mm 2.25" (2)

2.5" STAINLESS STEEL SILICONE T-BOLT CLAMP (2)

2.25" STAINLESS STEEL SILICONE T-BOLT CLAMP (4)

2.5" to 2.25 inch 45 Degree Elbow Silicone Reducer Coupler Intake Pipe Black (2)

The only thing you need is two 2.25" aluminum joiners and two extra clamps. The ECS kit comes with everything you need. You connect the included couplers to the joiners, and the OEM charge pipes to the other end of the joiners. There is pictures of it in my thread regarding the intercooler on the OEM charge pipes.

[S4_SH1640]

The only thing you need is two 2.25" aluminum joiners and two extra clamps. The ECS kit comes with everything you need. You connect the included couplers to the joiners, and the OEM charge pipes to the other end of the joiners. There is pictures of it in my thread regarding the intercooler on the OEM charge pipes.

The ECS intercooler comes with the 2.5 inch straight silicone coupler and two clamps.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/luft-technik-intercooler-add-on-kit/002894ecs01kt2/

My oem hoses are 2.25 inches. So i would need the Reducers as well. from 2.5" to 2.25" and then the 2.25" Joiner pipe to attach the silicone reducer to oem hose.


This is based on my research trying to read back on this thread. Thats why i didnt understand what else i need to purchase.

[Spawne32]

The ECS intercooler comes with the 2.5 inch straight silicone coupler and two clamps.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/luft-technik-intercooler-add-on-kit/002894ecs01kt2/

My oem hoses are 2.25 inches. So i would need the Reducers as well. from 2.5" to 2.25" and then the 2.25" Joiner pipe to attach the silicone reducer to oem hose.


This is based on my research trying to read back on this thread. Thats why i didnt understand what else i need to purchase.

Contact their customer support, because its supposed to come with reducers not straight couplers. They changed that on the website, everyone who has ordered one got the reducers.

[Spawne32]

http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/e4ee8d664518c2a9facfefa7fdd76532.jpg

[Poodini]

Contact their customer support, because its supposed to come with reducers not straight couplers. They changed that on the website, everyone who has ordered one got the reducers.

Correctomundo!

I'm using Eurocode's True Fit IC Hose Kit which has a 2.25" diameter. It's a nice snug fit at the connection point with the FMIC. Definitely needed a 2.25 to 1.75" coupler, bridged with a 2" aluminum joiner. Secured on nicely and runs smooth!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170910/691267ef6577334991afa8a1a41eedc3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170910/0aa66011f12792cd726559ec3fcb09a9.jpg


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[S4_SH1640]

http://www.hostthenpost.org/uploads/e4ee8d664518c2a9facfefa7fdd76532.jpg

I just contacted them, and they said that they cannot get me the reducers only the the straight silicone couplers that they have listed on the website.
I guess they dont come with the reducers anymore.

[MrTylerRaines]

44574
44575
44576

Link to product
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-wagner-tuning-parts/silicone-intercooler-hose-kit/210001045~wgt/

Wagner Silicone pipes are a perfect fit for the ECS FMIC imo without using the two reducers that come with it. I was going to wait for them to be back in stock but I figured I'll get the rest of the couplers later. Hope this helps. PM me if anyone has questions.


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[Richieru456]

Question, is the whole ECS kit not worth it?

[Perry01]

https://s26.postimg.org/bxhyefell/IMG_6398.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Link to product
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-wagner-tuning-parts/silicone-intercooler-hose-kit/210001045~wgt/

Wagner Silicone pipes are a perfect fit for the ECS FMIC.....

They also come with the Wagner FMIC. I guess if your going to pay $950 for an intercooler, they throw in the $150 silicone hoses with it....

[MrTylerRaines]

They also come with the Wagner FMIC. I guess if your going to pay $950 for an intercooler, they throw in the $150 silicone hoses with it....

Yea thats true but I would rather spend around 400 for the ecs one with the Wagner pipes than 8-900 for the Wagner kit.


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[fasteddy91]

Question, is the whole ECS kit not worth it?

I was thinking the same thing...

Ecs or treadstone Intercooler cost 250
Wagner pipes/eurocode or cts silicone hoses 150-200
Eurocode high flow intercooler pipe 150

So you would have to spend 550-600 to duplicate the full ecs kit. From what I have read so far, the silicone hoses don't make a huge difference but you would have to buy two reducer hoses and a couple clamps if you are only going with just the intercooler. So just to be safe...let's say 50 bucks.

What's everyone's opinion on the eurocode high flow intercooler pipe? I here it helps with reducing turbo lag and improves throttle response.

I also figured if I'm going to remove the bumper, I would rather do everything all at once. Also, I like how the ecs kit is pretty much plug and play.

[Spawne32]

Guys the ECS full intercooler kit with charge pipes AND a turbo muffler is 550. It's litterally the cheapest intercooler kit on the market right now.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/luft-technik-b8-a4-a5-20t-front-mount-intercooler-and-charge-pipe-system/002894ecs01kt1/

[fasteddy91]

∆ totally agree....I was about to buy a used eurocode hfip, some Wagner silicone hoses and the treadstone or ecs intercooler core....but for the same price, I can get the ecs full kit. No brainer at this point

[Poodini]

^^
I already had Eurocode's TrueFit IC hose kit & lower IC Pipe prior to going K04 so all I needed was the FMIC unit although the right/passenger side hose was a poor fit with the new turbo so switched that one back to the OE hose and bridged the The given silicone coupler with an aluminum connector. Worked like a charm but be sure to tighten/clamp those suckers DOWN!


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[fasteddy91]

Thanks Poodini...I guess I didn't realize most folks already have the silicone hose kit and or eurocode high flow intercooler pipe so all that is needed is the intercooler for 250 from ecs or treadstone.

I guess I'm still a noob and don't have a lot of mods. I'll be ordering the ecs intercooler kit shortly.

[Poodini]

Thanks Poodini...I guess I didn't realize most folks already have the silicone hose kit and or eurocode high flow intercooler pipe so all that is needed is the intercooler for 250 from ecs or treadstone.

I guess I'm still a noob and don't have a lot of mods. I'll be ordering the ecs intercooler kit shortly.

Don't sweat it bro. I STILL often feel like a newb but that's one great thing about these forums. They're a treasure trove of knowledge from cats far more qualified who are cool about answering even the most inept of questions. Take it from someone who's asked more than his fair share of them!

🤙🏼


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[Richieru456]

Thanks Poodini...I guess I didn't realize most folks already have the silicone hose kit and or eurocode high flow intercooler pipe so all that is needed is the intercooler for 250 from ecs or treadstone.

I guess I'm still a noob and don't have a lot of mods. I'll be ordering the ecs intercooler kit shortly.

Thanks for helping confirm that bro. Pretty much in the same boat as you lol but now I know just get the kit. Hope they have a Black Friday sale lol

[fasteddy91]

Thanks for helping confirm that bro. Pretty much in the same boat as you lol but now I know just get the kit. Hope they have a Black Friday sale lol

Sure thing. I was thinking the same thing. I doubt they will have this on sale. I even looked at old posts from ecs and didn't see any black Friday sales on items like this.

[Poodini]

Wait til their annual Holiday sale come Christmas time! Prob won't be more than 10-15% off but free shipping + no sales tax direct to your door, can't beat it.


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[fasteddy91]

Works for me....it would be cool if they offered a group buy at 500 shipped. Hint hint.

[Richieru456]

Works for me....it would be cool if they offered a group buy at 500 shipped. Hint hint.

I was hoping more like $400 👀👀👀

[Poodini]

I don't think they're into the GB thang. They're on another level compared to most everyone else online-store wise. I'd imagine they have dudes who set the sales/pricing and advertise/launch all in house so not much incentive for them. Jason@ECS, if you're listening, you could prove them wrong...[emoji6]


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[Richieru456]

Jason@ecs 👀 Any chance?

[B7AudiSline]

I am about to buy a intercooler, what do you think is better the Wagner silicone charge pipes or the aluminum charge pipes that ECS offers? I was going to just buy the ECS kit but I see alot of people buying the ECS intercooler without the charge pipes.

[Spawne32]

I am about to buy a intercooler, what do you think is better the Wagner silicone charge pipes or the aluminum charge pipes that ECS offers? I was going to just buy the ECS kit but I see alot of people buying the ECS intercooler without the charge pipes.

Only reason to buy the intercooler without the charge pipes is if you plan on keeping the stock hoses, otherwise, the ECS charge pipe kit is a great upgrade.

[fasteddy91]

I am about to buy a intercooler, what do you think is better the Wagner silicone charge pipes or the aluminum charge pipes that ECS offers? I was going to just buy the ECS kit but I see alot of people buying the ECS intercooler without the charge pipes.

I'm in the same boat as you.....if you haven't upgraded anything regarding the intercooler setup, I would get the whole kit. I only want to pull the bumper once and do all the work at the same time. I can see if you already had the eurocode high flow intercooler pipe and had already upgraded your hoses to the silicone ones already. If you buy the kit, you get the high flow intercooler pipe which removes the soundbox....that piece alone costs 175 shipped from eurocode.

[Poodini]

^^
Precisely.
In my case, when I decided to upgrade fr APR's Stage 1 to 2, I felt it would be beneficial to upgrade the intercooling system. It only made sense that if the requirements to run Stage 2 all centered around better airflow, the intercooler and associated hoses needed to be part of that equation. That a high flow intake, an HFC, a test pipe and/or larger diameter downpipe were the prerequisites, why stifle yourself by not improving flow to the most critical aspect, MORE COOLED AIR TO/WARM AIR AWAY from the Actual Turbo. Thanks once again to our community and forums, I found a cost effective alternative via the 3.0l A6/Q5 Intercooler swap. Also, I found both the Eurocode TrueFit hose kit as well as their Lower IC pipe used in the Classifieds which saved me an additional $150+. So, the entire upgrade came out to $350 and some change including install! The setup worked very well with the added demands of Stage 2 at a much better price than looking at an APR or comparable companies' offerings which went from $600-$700 and up! Ouch!
So imagine my excitement when ECS trotted out their FMIC! Knowing I would need to beef up the cooling even more once I went to a K04, the fact that ECS had the foresight to give us an option to buy just the FMIC + couplers or the entire IC kit sealed it for me. BRILLIANT MOVE ECS! [emoji1360]


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[Richieru456]

^^
Precisely.
In my case, when I decided to upgrade fr APR's Stage 1 to 2, I felt it would be beneficial to upgrade the intercooling system. It only made sense that if the requirements to run Stage 2 all centered around better airflow, the intercooler and associated hoses needed to be part of that equation. That a high flow intake, an HFC, a test pipe and/or larger diameter downpipe were the prerequisites, why stifle yourself by not improving flow to the most critical aspect, MORE COOLED AIR TO/WARM AIR AWAY from the Actual Turbo. Thanks once again to our community and forums, I found a cost effective alternative via the 3.0l A6/Q5 Intercooler swap. Also, I found both the Eurocode TrueFit hose kit as well as their Lower IC pipe used in the Classifieds which saved me an additional $150+. So, the entire upgrade came out to $350 and some change including install! The setup worked very well with the added demands of Stage 2 at a much better price than looking at an APR or comparable companies' offerings which went from $600-$700 and up! Ouch!
So imagine my excitement when ECS trotted out their FMIC! Knowing I would need to beef up the cooling even more once I went to a K04, the fact that ECS had the foresight to give us an option to buy just the FMIC + couplers or the entire IC kit sealed it for me. BRILLIANT MOVE ECS! [emoji1360]


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What intake do you have?

[S4_SH1640]

^^
Precisely.
In my case, when I decided to upgrade fr APR's Stage 1 to 2, I felt it would be beneficial to upgrade the intercooling system. It only made sense that if the requirements to run Stage 2 all centered around better airflow, the intercooler and associated hoses needed to be part of that equation. That a high flow intake, an HFC, a test pipe and/or larger diameter downpipe were the prerequisites, why stifle yourself by not improving flow to the most critical aspect, MORE COOLED AIR TO/WARM AIR AWAY from the Actual Turbo. Thanks once again to our community and forums, I found a cost effective alternative via the 3.0l A6/Q5 Intercooler swap. Also, I found both the Eurocode TrueFit hose kit as well as their Lower IC pipe used in the Classifieds which saved me an additional $150+. So, the entire upgrade came out to $350 and some change including install! The setup worked very well with the added demands of Stage 2 at a much better price than looking at an APR or comparable companies' offerings which went from $600-$700 and up! Ouch!
So imagine my excitement when ECS trotted out their FMIC! Knowing I would need to beef up the cooling even more once I went to a K04, the fact that ECS had the foresight to give us an option to buy just the FMIC + couplers or the entire IC kit sealed it for me. BRILLIANT MOVE ECS! [emoji1360]


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So, is there a big turbo lag added with the ECS IC if im stock?

I really dont want to add something that is bigger than i need. Not planning to do any upgrades to it yet.

[fasteddy91]

Just my opinion from what I read so far....adding just the ecs or tr8 intercooler will reduce the throttle response under 2k rpms but will gain horsepower and torque above that. If yo get the kit which includes the high flow intercooler pipe, then it should give you most of that throttle response you lost by adding the intercooler.

[Poodini]

Just my opinion from what I read so far....adding just the ecs or tr8 intercooler will reduce the throttle response under 2k rpms but will gain horsepower and torque above that. If yo get the kit which includes the high flow intercooler pipe, then it should give you most of that throttle response you lost by adding the intercooler.

More or less... the hoses + lower IC pipe merely improve overall air flow from the intake on out. The goal being to optimize cold air feeding the turbo. The lower IC pipe negates the restrictive nature of the OE fitted with that accordion looking sound delete box.
In terms of how it translates to your driving experience, it’s definitely appreciable, especially during the warmer months of the year.


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[fasteddy91]

∆ exactly!

No major hurry to get this but I'll buy it during the ecs holiday sale if it does go on sale.

[A4x]

So, is there a big turbo lag added with the ECS IC if im stock?

I really dont want to add something that is bigger than i need. Not planning to do any upgrades to it yet.

IMO an intercooler upgrade is not necessary if you are stock. No point. Once you get tuned, you will start pushing a lot more hot air through the pipes. Then an upgrade could make sense.

Spend your money on a high flow cat instead. That will give you a better performance increase on stock tune than an intercooler, IMO. And your warranty should be fine with a HFC. Worst case, you have to swap back the stock one. But I got my turbo replaced under warranty with an 034 HFC bolted up to it.

[Poodini]

IMO an intercooler upgrade is not necessary if you are stock. No point. Once you get tuned, you will start pushing a lot more hot air through the pipes. Then an upgrade could make sense.

Spend your money on a high flow cat instead. That will give you a better performance increase on stock tune than an intercooler, IMO. And your warranty should be fine with a HFC. Worst case, you have to swap back the stock one. But I got my turbo replaced under warranty with an 034 HFC bolted up to it.

Ditto. The HFC is where you’ll feel the biggest gains sans tune.


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[S4_SH1640]

https://www.kwe-racing.de/Audi/Audi-A7/Audi-A7-4GA-2-0TFSi-KWE-Performance-Tuning-Intercooler::960.html?MODsid=99e42c847a2e7c64a0afe b084949840c

I wonder if this is a good intercooler for stock k03 cars.

[Poodini]

https://www.kwe-racing.de/Audi/Audi-A7/Audi-A7-4GA-2-0TFSi-KWE-Performance-Tuning-Intercooler::960.html?MODsid=99e42c847a2e7c64a0afe b084949840c

I wonder if this is a good intercooler for stock k03 cars.

A simple and cost-effective upgrade is swapping it out with a 3.0t IC. Little larger than our stock one, mounts right up, minimal adjustments needed with existing hoses, clamp ‘em down and your solid for $150 or less!
I ran one with my APR Stage 2 application and ran like a champ! Had to swap it out for the K04-R upgrade but could’ve most likely used that and would have been ok.


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[S4_SH1640]

A simple and cost-effective upgrade is swapping it out with a 3.0t IC. Little larger than our stock one, mounts right up, minimal adjustments needed with existing hoses, clamp ‘em down and your solid for $150 or less!
I ran one with my APR Stage 2 application and ran like a champ! Had to swap it out for the K04-R upgrade but could’ve most likely used that and would have been ok.


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Where can i buy this new? Everything i see is with the plastic ends.

[S4_SH1640]

Part number of the IC is: 4G0 145 805 J

Anyone know where to buy this in the US?

See attached for photos

[hyperunion]

Part number of the IC is: 4G0 145 805 J

Anyone know where to buy this in the US?

See attached for photosWish we had this motor in b8s and b8.5s in the states!!!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Poodini]

Where can i buy this new? Everything i see is with the plastic ends.

Any particular reason why you don’t want the standard 3.0l FMIC with urethane end sections? They’re mating up with silicone hoses so, if anything, they’ll maintain their connection a bit better under high boost than say all metal joiners. Mine with the plastic ends held up just fine on Stage 2 with no drop on performance, no boost leak from there, and no degradation after a little over a year of spirited driving.
Just curious..


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[fasteddy91]

Any particular reason why you don’t want the standard 3.0l FMIC with urethane end sections? They’re mating up with silicone hoses so, if anything, they’ll maintain their connection a bit better under high boost than say all metal joiners. Mine with the plastic ends held up just fine on Stage 2 with no drop on performance, no boost leak from there, and no degradation after a little over a year of spirited driving.
Just curious..


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44574
44575
44576

Link to product
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-wagner-tuning-parts/silicone-intercooler-hose-kit/210001045~wgt/

Wagner Silicone pipes are a perfect fit for the ECS FMIC imo without using the two reducers that come with it. I was going to wait for them to be back in stock but I figured I'll get the rest of the couplers later. Hope this helps. PM me if anyone has questions.


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So the Wagner hoses are 2.5 inches compared to 2.25 inches for the stock hoses?

[MrTylerRaines]

Yea

[fasteddy91]

Cool. Thanks

[Spawne32]

Don't know why anyone would pay 200 for the 3.0 IC with the aluminum ends when they can get the better ECS intercooler for 50 dollars more. lol

[A4 Centaur]

^ Good point

[fasteddy91]

Don't know why anyone would pay 200 for the 3.0 IC with the aluminum ends when they can get the better ECS intercooler for 50 dollars more. lol

Agreed...I bought a used nissen intercooler with some cts turbo silicone hoses and the Eurocode high flow intercooler pipe for half the price of the ecs intercooler by itself. I am missing one hose, it's the one that connects between the intercooler and hfip. I was debating on using the stock hose or buying the Wagner pipes as they are 2.5 inches in diameter and they would slide into the intercooler easier.

How critical is it to use a silicone hose instead of the rubber hose? That is my dilemma at the moment.

[Audi 4 Life]

So I just wanted to share what I did on my B8. i am using forge intercooler kit. To go with my black trim on white theme i wanted to paint my intercooler black and also I like the sleekness of a black intercooler.

So I found this new line by cerakote, P202.
I also did my heat shield with it for no reason at all other than I wanted it black. I don't really care if the gain is little to nil I like the black look so it was worth it for me also my B8 is not your typical.

https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/P-202/arctic-black-oven-cure

Quoted from their site,
Cerakote Arctic Black is a semi-gloss solid tone black.

Cerakote Heat Dissipating Coatings are a line of submicron coatings. Arctic Black is typically used on applications requiring a high thermal conductivity to transfer heat away from the energy source. Typical uses include, but are not limited to radiators, engine blocks, transmission cases, heat syncs, intercoolers and anywhere heat dissipation is needed.




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200917/a5c947806fd5431b0805aa2fb3a88d9f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200917/307496afbd66436513d254dd7bf322b0.jpg

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[Spawne32]

Very nice!

[Audi 4 Life]

Very nice!


Thx I can't wait to install it!

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[keithk831]

Like others, I am looking at an intercooler upgrade. I’m Unitronic stage 2 tuned and I do mostly daily driving. From what I’ve read on several threads, I’m torn between the 3.0t intercooler and the ECS kit (including the hard pipes). I really don’t want to have any more turbo lag but I also don’t want to miss out on some potentially stronger gains. I have no intent to go k04.

What would you recommend I do?

Also, if i go with the 3.0t intercooler, should I just keep the stock pipes?

[Spawne32]

Like others, I am looking at an intercooler upgrade. I’m Unitronic stage 2 tuned and I do mostly daily driving. From what I’ve read on several threads, I’m torn between the 3.0t intercooler and the ECS kit. I really don’t want to have any more turbo lag but I also don’t want to miss out on some potentially stronger gains. I have no intent to go k04.

What would you recommend I do?

Also, if i go with the 3.0t intercooler, should I just keep the stock pipes?

If you go with the 3.0T intercooler, throw it in the trash immediately after, because its a complete waste of money. lol That thing is like a holdover from when there was only 2 intercoolers on the market for these cars. Go with either the straight ECS intercooler by itself, and a set of coupler adapters, or look at the Rev9 on ebay if you are really on a budget. It's a replica of the wagner intercooler. It requires some fabrication for brackets.

[keithk831]

If you go with the 3.0T intercooler, throw it in the trash immediately after, because its a complete waste of money. lol That thing is like a holdover from when there was only 2 intercoolers on the market for these cars. Go with either the straight ECS intercooler by itself, and a set of coupler adapters, or look at the Rev9 on ebay if you are really on a budget. It's a replica of the wagner intercooler. It requires some fabrication for brackets.

So would you say the ECS charge pipes are not worth it?

[Spawne32]

So would you say the ECS charge pipes are not worth it?

The charge pipes really are not necessary if you are on a stock turbo car to be honest. The intercooler, when I had it was more than adequate.

[JLAllroad]

So would you say the ECS charge pipes are not worth it?

There are a ton of connection points (including the MAP bung) that can and will leak after a number of heat cycles if not retightened. You may or may not have clearance issues with the turbo to IC charge pipe on the passenger radiator support.


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[Nano909]

There are a ton of connection points (including the MAP bung) that can and will leak after a number of heat cycles if not retightened. You may or may not have clearance issues with the turbo to IC charge pipe on the passenger radiator support.


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I put some Hondabond on the MAP bung for that exact reason during install. Also yes you should check after a few hundred miles and retighten the connection points.

[keithk831]

Thanks for the input. Any other opinions on the intercooler question?

[Nano909]

Thanks for the input. Any other opinions on the intercooler question?

Nope, Spawne nailed it. No point in replacing a stock intercooler for another stock intercooler when there are cheap options out there that perform way better .

[Spawne32]

Thanks for the input. Any other opinions on the intercooler question?

I mean, you can always go with a treadstone intercooler, but that still leaves you fabricating mounting for it.

[keithk831]

I mean, you can always go with a treadstone intercooler, but that still leaves you fabricating mounting for it.

Yeah, hard pass on that lol.

[bb-tt]

Nope, Spawne nailed it. No point in replacing a stock intercooler for another stock intercooler when there are cheap options out there that perform way better .

It is nice to see everyone who never used the tdi IC talk about how bad it is. I actually had it when i was stage 2 and logged while in Florida the 3L tdi ic worked great on stage 2 didn't need to upgrade till i went k04. The tdi ic is a liter larger than the stock ic that is a lot of cooling.

EDIT

NISSENS 96618 was i think $150 from rock auto (to be clear this is the "NISSENS" IC for the 3.0)

https://i.imgur.com/zjDOkOe.png

[Spawne32]

It is nice to see everyone who never used the tdi IC talk about how bad it is. I actually had it when i was stage 2 and logged while in Florida the 3L tdi ic worked great on stage 2 didn't need to upgrade till i went k04. The tdi ic is a liter larger than the stock ic that is a lot of cooling.

EDIT

NISSENS 96618 was i think $150 from rock auto (to be clear this is the "NISSENS" IC for the 3.0)

https://i.imgur.com/zjDOkOe.png

I mean, the ECS intercooler used to be like $220 bucks. I dunno what they are charging now. $202 bucks from Rockauto it seems for the Nissens IC.

[bb-tt]

I mean, the ECS intercooler used to be like $220 bucks. I dunno what they are charging now. $202 bucks from Rockauto it seems for the Nissens IC.

For 20$ i would probably go with ECS, at the time i think i also had a rock auto credit.

[Spawne32]

For 20$ i would probably go with ECS, at the time i think i also had a rock auto credit.

You can always use the 5% off coupon's, but they always get you with shipping.

Parts Cost $201.79
Shipping + $12.99
Tax Help + $14.23

total 229 and some change.

[bb-tt]

You can always use the 5% off coupon's, but they always get you with shipping.

Parts Cost $201.79
Shipping + $12.99
Tax Help + $14.23

total 229 and some change.

ECS falls into the apr category for me, they no longer get my business. but as i said if i needed a cheap IC and delta was only $20 i would probably go with the ecs

[Traptalk]

ECS falls into the apr category for me, they no longer get my business. but as i said if i needed a cheap IC and delta was only $20 i would probably go with the ecs

Yeah I haven’t been terribly impressed with ecs as of late

My intake looks like shit after a year of daily driving. The dollar store super glue I used to re attach the bulb seal is holding better than whatever it came with for adhesive.

Should be a slip fit or press in bulb seal

[Spawne32]

Yeah I haven’t been terribly impressed with ecs as of late

My intake looks like shit after a year of daily driving. The dollar store super glue I used to re attach the bulb seal is holding better than whatever it came with for adhesive.

Should be a slip fit or press in bulb seal

How does your turbo look? [>_<]

[bb-tt]

How does your turbo look? [>_<]

like a zf8 minus 2 gears

[Spawne32]

like a zf8 minus 2 gears

[poop] shots fired

[Nano909]

I might be the only one here who's ordered a crapload of parts from ECS and hasn't had one single issue.

[Traptalk]

How does your turbo look? [>_<]

Like a real Borg Warner... with a manufacturers defect lol

[Traptalk]

Still looks better than the beige interior tho

[Spawne32]

Still looks better than the beige interior tho

https://media.giphy.com/media/WxDZ77xhPXf3i/giphy.gif

[whats77inaname]

There are a ton of connection points (including the MAP bung) that can and will leak after a number of heat cycles if not retightened. You may or may not have clearance issues with the turbo to IC charge pipe on the passenger radiator support.


I remember you mentioned that to me in another thread a bit ago. Finally got around to putting them on w/the new bumper cover. As K04 users have to use the sleeve and not the turbo muffler delete, the sleeve is a bit long, so the pipe def. doesn't fit correctly. Install angle is horrible and was bound to let go at some point. Ended up taking that pipe, cutting it in half, and the upper half I took about 3cm off and then had it bead rolled. Connected the two pieces back together with a silicone sleeve, and after turning it a bit to adjust the install angle, all was good.... Until I didn't tighten it enough and on the maiden voyage w/the s.o., it blew off. Was really hoping it wasn't the sleeve over the turbo, b/c I thought I'd be hosed, time-wise. Found out on that night that when I remove the grille on the new bumper cover, I can reach all the clamps w/out having to remove said bumper cover, even to the one connecting the sleeve to the turbo. Adjusted the sleeve, re-tightened, and all has been good.


So I just wanted to share what I did on my B8. i am using forge intercooler kit. To go with my black trim on white theme i wanted to paint my intercooler black and also I like the sleekness of a black intercooler.

So I found this new line by cerakote, P202.
I also did my heat shield with it for no reason at all other than I wanted it black. I don't really care if the gain is little to nil I like the black look so it was worth it for me also my B8 is not your typical.


That's clean! What'd you do about the core support? Tried paint before, didn't work out so well, so I prepped it and then used undercarriage paint. It's kind of rubbery, and def. thicker than paint. I can press my fingernail into it and it flexes w/out chipping, flecking off, or scratching. Hopefully it works out long term.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT49AS/


I might be the only one here who's ordered a crapload of parts from ECS and hasn't had one single issue.

I just had my first one. It was *not* pretty. 70% resolved at this point.

[Audi 4 Life]

I remember you mentioned that to me in another thread a bit ago. Finally got around to putting them on w/the new bumper cover. As K04 users have to use the sleeve and not the turbo muffler delete, the sleeve is a bit long, so the pipe def. doesn't fit correctly. Install angle is horrible and was bound to let go at some point. Ended up taking that pipe, cutting it in half, and the upper half I took about 3cm off and then had it bead rolled. Connected the two pieces back together with a silicone sleeve, and after turning it a bit to adjust the install angle, all was good.... Until I didn't tighten it enough and on the maiden voyage w/the s.o., it blew off. Was really hoping it wasn't the sleeve over the turbo, b/c I thought I'd be hosed, time-wise. Found out on that night that when I remove the grille on the new bumper cover, I can reach all the clamps w/out having to remove said bumper cover, even to the one connecting the sleeve to the turbo. Adjusted the sleeve, re-tightened, and all has been good.


That's clean! What'd you do about the core support? Tried paint before, didn't work out so well, so I prepped it and then used undercarriage paint. It's kind of rubbery, and def. thicker than paint. I can press my fingernail into it and it flexes w/out chipping, flecking off, or scratching. Hopefully it works out long term.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT49AS/



I just had my first one. It was *not* pretty. 70% resolved at this point.Cerkote is a bit expensive to use on a core support and all that was pictured cost almost 400$. If my bumper was off and I had thought of it I could of added it. I I would of rather had powder coated when I did my ecs street shield a few weeks ago but didn't think of it.

The core support can be done with any quality industrial paint just make sure to prep the paint is only going to cone out as good as the prep. Adhesion promotor and or two in one primer is necessary.



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[wildfan4eva]

Hello Everyone,

Lots of information here to mull over, however it "appears" that a quality aftermarket core is more than efficient on a Stage 2 APR tune (no cat/test pipe on stock downpipe & K&N cold air intake system), but that's where my questions/confusion begin, as the Luft-Technik scratch and dent cores are only $100 right now via ECS, but the charge/piping system is over 3x that amount at $350 or so, but if you were to avoid the piping kit, is there some kind of "basic" list of parts needed to purchase piping separately? Or, just use the OEM piping with the core, since the core is the meat and potatoes of the kit, or so I believe? BTW, I don't track my vehicle, but like most others, do enjoy a few back-to-back runs around my local area.

I would assume there's numerous parts/ways to build the piping kit, but ultimately hoping for more of an actual "list of what's needed" exactly.....or so I hope :)

Cheers!

[Theiceman]

yeah same boat ...
12 pages is a lot to read ...

maybe the first post could be updated with a few options if you are stock a few options if you are k04 etc

links would be nice but not necessary as they will likely get old.
im looking for a project with my Audi as im stock with stage one. I am removing the front bumper to get it painted so thought of upgrading intercooler as it seems like a good mod, but not sure what all my options are.

[Grouch]

Hello Everyone,

Lots of information here to mull over, however it "appears" that a quality aftermarket core is more than efficient on a Stage 2 APR tune (no cat/test pipe on stock downpipe & K&N cold air intake system), but that's where my questions/confusion begin, as the Luft-Technik scratch and dent cores are only $100 right now via ECS, but the charge/piping system is over 3x that amount at $350 or so, but if you were to avoid the piping kit, is there some kind of "basic" list of parts needed to purchase piping separately? Or, just use the OEM piping with the core, since the core is the meat and potatoes of the kit, or so I believe? BTW, I don't track my vehicle, but like most others, do enjoy a few back-to-back runs around my local area.

I would assume there's numerous parts/ways to build the piping kit, but ultimately hoping for more of an actual "list of what's needed" exactly.....or so I hope :)

Cheers!

The charge pipes seem to be a hit or miss with some people on here. I've heard people say skip the charge pipes and go for Eurocode HFIP and silicone hoses. Something to consider, that all the more expensive intercooler kits only come with silicone hoses and you use your stock HFIP.

[wildfan4eva]

Thanks for your reply. The "cheapest" option for an aftermarket intercooler "kit" on Eurocode is $900, that seems awful high to me, and am looking to spend below $750....

https://www.ecodetuning.com/Audi_A4-B8-5_13-16_2-0_T_quattro/engine/intercooler/#sortBy=p.price&sortOrder=asc&mode=append

Truly, just looking for a DIY kit/piece-by-piece direction comparable to this, but at like half the price....

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/high-flow-aluminum-charge-pipe-kit/002894ecs01kt/

[Grouch]

Thanks for your reply. The "cheapest" option for an aftermarket intercooler "kit" on Eurocode is $900, that seems awful high to me, and am looking to spend below $750....

https://www.ecodetuning.com/Audi_A4-B8-5_13-16_2-0_T_quattro/engine/intercooler/#sortBy=p.price&sortOrder=asc&mode=append

I meant get their high flow intercooler pipe @ 149. I didn't realize silicone hoses were so expensive. If you add both of them together you end up at the same price as their charge pipe.

[Theiceman]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-apr-parts/apr-front-mount-intercooler-system/ic100017~apr/

something like this ?

looks like it will drop right in but very pricey... im not sure if there are any other " drop in" options more reasonably priced.

[Grouch]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-apr-parts/apr-front-mount-intercooler-system/ic100017~apr/

something like this ?

looks like it will drop right in but very pricey... im not sure if there are any other " drop in" options more reasonably priced.

I personally think APR, IE FDS, FORGE, etc are a little overkill for stage 1/2. Always nice to have though if you can afford it. The ECS kit is the best bang for the buck imo. I believe some people have good experience with Rev9 intercoolers but it's not 100% complete bolt on if I recall correctly.

[MetroMan]

For the sake of conversation, I ordered this in late August. They said it wouldn't be available for shipping until late 2020/early 2021. My order is preparing to ship now.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/luft-technik-b8-a4-a5-20t-front-mount-intercooler-and-charge-pipe-system/002894ecs01kt1/

[Theiceman]

I personally think APR, IE FDS, FORGE, etc are a little overkill for stage 1/2. Always nice to have though if you can afford it. The ECS kit is the best bang for the buck imo. I believe some people have good experience with Rev9 intercoolers but it's not 100% complete bolt on if I recall correctly.

do you have a link to it ? im not that familiar with ICs

[Theiceman]

For the sake of conversation, I ordered this in late August. They said it wouldn't be available for shipping until late 2020/early 2021. My order is preparing to ship now.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/luft-technik-b8-a4-a5-20t-front-mount-intercooler-and-charge-pipe-system/002894ecs01kt1/

oh is this the ecs one mentioned above ???

i like .....

now open your borders so i can go to Niagara falls and pick it up :)

[Theiceman]

For the sake of conversation, I ordered this in late August. They said it wouldn't be available for shipping until late 2020/early 2021. My order is preparing to ship now.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/luft-technik-b8-a4-a5-20t-front-mount-intercooler-and-charge-pipe-system/002894ecs01kt1/

I think i might bite on this one , that seems a very reasonable price all in with everything you need..

looks like a fun project..

[MetroMan]

Yeah I thought it was very reasonable as well when comparing all of the options.

[schwiz23]

I think i might bite on this one , that seems a very reasonable price all in with everything you need..

looks like a fun project..

I've been incredibly happy with mine.

Before and after logs (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/898724-Spend-my-money!-Stage-2-fun-parts-list?p=14297048&viewfull=1#post14297048)

[Theiceman]

I've been incredibly happy with mine.

Before and after logs (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/898724-Spend-my-money!-Stage-2-fun-parts-list?p=14297048&viewfull=1#post14297048)

Glad to hear as i just ordered one ...
i will be the first to admit i am not a "mod" guy by any means , if it is not stock i dont know what i am doing, i just do stuff because im bored and this is my project car.. so looking forward to this project.
i have a fresh rebuild behind me and have done the following .
stage 1+ 93 octane tune which woke it up a bit
B12 lowering kit which allowed it to handle very nicely on roundabouts.
now this intercooler, and i will throw a fresh paint job on the front bumper cover as its a little "peppered" after 130K miles.
still looking for an RS5 rear stabilizer as i hear that's a good mod. and that will be it i think.

[schwiz23]

Glad to hear as i just ordered one ...
i will be the first to admit i am not a "mod" guy by any means , if it is not stock i dont know what i am doing, i just do stuff because im bored and this is my project car.. so looking forward to this project.
i have a fresh rebuild behind me and have done the following .
stage 1+ 93 octane tune which woke it up a bit
B12 lowering kit which allowed it to handle very nicely on roundabouts.
now this intercooler, and i will throw a fresh paint job on the front bumper cover as its a little "peppered" after 130K miles.
still looking for an RS5 rear stabilizer as i hear that's a good mod. and that will be it i think.

Let us know what you think of the intercooler after it’s installed. If you can post a before and after log, please do so as well.

I noticed the throttle response was substantially better with the bigger intercooler. Boost seemed to hold more than stock as well.

Your next step is a hfc and stage II!


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[Nano909]

Glad to hear as i just ordered one ...
i will be the first to admit i am not a "mod" guy by any means , if it is not stock i dont know what i am doing, i just do stuff because im bored and this is my project car.. so looking forward to this project.
i have a fresh rebuild behind me and have done the following .
stage 1+ 93 octane tune which woke it up a bit
B12 lowering kit which allowed it to handle very nicely on roundabouts.
now this intercooler, and i will throw a fresh paint job on the front bumper cover as its a little "peppered" after 130K miles.
still looking for an RS5 rear stabilizer as i hear that's a good mod. and that will be it i think.

If you're not planning to go more than K04 then the ECS IC is the best bang for your buck. I drive in 115 degree weather and the car deals with no heatsoak.

[kneel]

JHmotorsports FMIC / thread.

Fitment and quality are of the product are amazing.
KO4 and IE KO4 tune for my setup

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201101/a353976b5c8bd8eaddb9e82c038a67d3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201101/96cf847ed911ffa9b33c488dfffb4e28.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201101/3d93f8e6687dcafdfe22332a976ea8c8.jpg


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[Audpor911]

I would advise anyone to try my setup since there is no turbo lag and crazy power delivery with HPA K04 and APR stg 3 tune. Mishimoto Universal Intercooler S-Line, 2 LTI Universal 57mm to 76mm 4-Ply Reinforced High Performance 2.25"-3" ID 45 Degree Elbow Reducer Coupler Silicone Hose, and 2 2.25" hose aluminum connectors with ECS tuning 2 piece Silicone Intercooler Hose Set. This setup flows just right, no pressure drop and power from the word go. You have to fabricate your own tabs but it fits well doesn't hit the radiator and looks great under the bumper.

[JLAllroad]

I would advise anyone to try my setup since there is no turbo lag and crazy power delivery with HPA K04 and APR stg 3 tune. Mishimoto Universal Intercooler S-Line, 2 LTI Universal 57mm to 76mm 4-Ply Reinforced High Performance 2.25"-3" ID 45 Degree Elbow Reducer Coupler Silicone Hose, and 2 2.25" hose aluminum connectors with ECS tuning 2 piece Silicone Intercooler Hose Set. This setup flows just right, no pressure drop and power from the word go. You have to fabricate your own tabs but it fits well doesn't hit the radiator and looks great under the bumper.

So did you change your thoughts from here or make some tweaks?252687

[Audpor911]

Add me to the list My ECS parts are holding up very well and their downpipe is the bees knees. Still looks great even after winter salt and crap. CTS on the other hand gets the toilet from me.

[Audpor911]

To JLAllroad, heck yeah. I realized the stock intercooler and hoses restrict the HPA hybrid soooo damn much it's not even funny. Guys I won't even put a 2.25" hose kit on a KO4 upgrade. I badly need the Boost pipe on the drivers side though but maybe now forced to get one made myself. Also my Mishimoto intercooler has a 3" hose connection that allows more air flow. Also I still think APRs tune is overated street crap. If you want to go over 100mph on a road course and see 130mph down Sam Posey straight at Limerock then I think a dyno professional tune is required. The APR tune gives better than stock response and still doesn't pull up top like my Volvo S60 T5 does. And that Volvo has a freaking dying 225000mile turbo. I am about to get 400hp+ turbo upgrade on that Volvo soon. At 100 that Volvo 2.4L 5cyl motor is a beast.

[JLAllroad]

To JLAllroad, heck yeah. I realized the stock intercooler and hoses restrict the HPA hybrid soooo damn much it's not even funny. Guys I won't even put a 2.25" hose kit on a KO4 upgrade. I badly need the Boost pipe on the drivers side though but maybe now forced to get one made myself. Also my Mishimoto intercooler has a 3" hose connection that allows more air flow. Also I still think APRs tune is overated street crap. If you want to go over 100mph on a road course and see 130mph down Sam Posey straight at Limerock then I think a dyno professional tune is required. The APR tune gives better than stock response and still doesn't pull up top like my Volvo S60 T5 does. And that Volvo has a freaking dying 225000mile turbo. I am about to get 400hp+ turbo upgrade on that Volvo soon. At 100 that Volvo 2.4L 5cyl motor is a beast.

Do you have any engine logs, dragy or quarter mile slips? Just wondering if you are getting everything out of your set up.


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[A4B8 2.0tfsi]

I went the golden middle road. :) https://fmic.eu/en/intercoolery/46203-intercooler-jrspec-550x230x65mm-high-performance-fmic-high-flow-intercooler.html

[amd is the best]

Wagner is an incredible unit for anyone who might be interested.

[HokieDude]

Not an A4, but I just upgraded my FMIC and piping (APR/ECS) on my B8.5 A5 and the difference in the 3-4k rpm range is very noticeable. Looking forward to stage II now...

[JLAllroad]

Not an A4, but I just upgraded my FMIC and piping (APR/ECS) on my B8.5 A5 and the difference in the 3-4k rpm range is very noticeable. Looking forward to stage II now...

Check and recheck your piping after a number of heat cycles, all of the connections and the MAP like to leak.


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[DJRAYMIX]

JHmotorsports FMIC / thread.

Fitment and quality are of the product are amazing.
KO4 and IE KO4 tune for my setup

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201101/a353976b5c8bd8eaddb9e82c038a67d3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201101/96cf847ed911ffa9b33c488dfffb4e28.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201101/3d93f8e6687dcafdfe22332a976ea8c8.jpg


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Hows this setup been going thinking about the intercooler.

How’s the intercooler install?


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[JonnyA4B8.5]

Is this possible with stock intercooler hose?

[bb-tt]

Pretty sure i have said it before but here goes anyways. I have the IE FDS IC which hey its great and it works but for the money and after reviewing logs from others if i had to do it again i would go rev 9 all day long. Stay away from ecs and not just because they have worse customer service than the dmv. There are numerous posts from people with the ecs complaining about all the couplers and constant leaks. You really cant go wrong with the wagner most likely the best performing ic out there but again for the money the rev 9 has rock solid performance. (these are my observations from reading way to many posts and logs on these and other forums, don't believe anything i say unless you already know it to be true or do your own research)

[DJRAYMIX]

Pretty sure i have said it before but here goes anyways. I have the IE FDS IC which hey its great and it works but for the money and after reviewing logs form others if i had to do it again i would go rev 9 all day long. Stay away from ecs and not jut because they have worse customer service than the dmv. There are numerous post from people with the ecs complaining about all the couplers and constant leaks. You really cant go wrong with the wagner most likely the best performing ic out there but again for the money the rev 9 has rock solid performance. (these are my observations from reading way to many posts and logs on these and other forums, don't believe anything i say unless you already know it to be true or do your own research)

Just purchased the rev9! Just wondering how everyone installed it with what kind of bracket because from what I was reading is that it might need some kind of fabrication. Does anybody have information this? Pictures would be great as well!


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[JLAllroad]

Just purchased the rev9! Just wondering how everyone installed it with what kind of bracket because from what I was reading is that it might need some kind of fabrication. Does anybody have information this? Pictures would be great as well!


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This is essentially a Rev9 with brackets, so just fab this up.

https://a.co/d/7DGhk6X


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[Nano909]

Just purchased the rev9! Just wondering how everyone installed it with what kind of bracket because from what I was reading is that it might need some kind of fabrication. Does anybody have information this? Pictures would be great as well!


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They include some brackets and stuff. I made them work without doing anything special and it's held up great.

[DJRAYMIX]

This is essentially a Rev9 with brackets, so just fab this up.

https://a.co/d/7DGhk6X


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Ohh great! Thanks will give this a try326378


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[DJRAYMIX]

326440
Just received my REV9 IC and it does come with brackets! But I’m noticing no logos on box or on the IC unit. Did everyone who purchased the Rev9 IC receive the same way?

I bought from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/144822101783?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=24G6bORBSHy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=gaHvxn_VS76&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


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