So I want to replace one of PCV hoses

[BASARAB]

Here is the part I want to replace, because its all cracked
http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/22216_x300.jpg
I just want to put a silicone hose instead of it, something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-8-ID-SILICONE-HEATER-HOSE-Blue-350-F-Sold-Foot-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a0060800QQitemZ29044 7558656QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

What do u guys think? Is it a good idea or should I just buy the original part?

The part number is 06B103213AK and it is number 9 on this pic
http://www.vagcat.com/p/B249/103900.png

[EUROaleksey]

i think u should stop buying valves and hoses and start buying п*мп*рсы...))) мисс ю дюд!!!!!!

[BASARAB]

haha not yet

[a4darkness]

Looking at silicone heater hose to replace the OEM stuff is a great idea. As long as it's pressure and temp compliant, why not? Greg@Podi took his entire piping system to a store that sells heater hose and then matched and cut each piece to fit FTMFW.

When I get to replacing all of these hoses, I'll look for a viable online source and use it.

[walky_talky20]

I'm almost certain the piece you have there is metal. How exactly is it cracked? Coked up and clogged, sure, but cracked?

[BASARAB]

It is just plastic and its cracked in multiple places.

[walky_talky20]

Just looked it up a bit. Looks like your "AK" piece is a "2004 only" part. 2001-2003 uses a metal pipe (06B103213G: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES279947) there (part #9 in your photo). That explains why your part doesn't match the parts diagram photo very well. One would wonder if you could substitute the metal piece, or what exactly is different that requires the plastic piece. I'm curious now.

Anyway, if you are going to substitute silicone hose there, you'll probably need suitable barb fitting couplers on each end to connect it.

[BASARAB]

ETKA clearly shows that it will not work with my car. I think it is because of PCV valve, they are different on 02-03 compare to 04's, so fitting or length might be different. I am just not sure why would they switch from metal to plastic, does not seem very practical.

[a4darkness]

Cost savings.


ETKA clearly shows that it will not work with my car. I think it is because of PCV valve, they are different on 02-03 compare to 04's, so fitting or length might be different. I am just not sure why would they switch from metal to plastic, does not seem very practical.

[spyder101]

here is a problem, the plastic pipe is melted and fitted togeather to the rest of the componants, so you can't just replace the one hose...you gotta replace the entire setup. BTW, that is the wrong picture you have posted. The diagram is for the older, setup with the metal pipe but, the other pic you posted is for the plastic pipe...which one do you have?

[QuattroRocket]

Funny timing, I am getting an occasional CEL that I have just been informed is my PCV pipe going bad as well. Are there any options out there other than OEM ?

[ApexIt]

here is a problem, the plastic pipe is melted and fitted togeather to the rest of the componants, so you can't just replace the one hose...you gotta replace the entire setup. BTW, that is the wrong picture you have posted. The diagram is for the older, setup with the metal pipe but, the other pic you posted is for the plastic pipe...which one do you have?

The pipe isnt always melted to the other components. I had to replace mine because it was cracked as well and didnt have to replace the entire setup.

[BASARAB]

here is a problem, the plastic pipe is melted and fitted togeather to the rest of the componants, so you can't just replace the one hose...you gotta replace the entire setup. BTW, that is the wrong picture you have posted. The diagram is for the older, setup with the metal pipe but, the other pic you posted is for the plastic pipe...which one do you have?

Mine is not melted, is just cracked.

[a4darkness]

Kinda curious what state mine is in right now.

[tapA4]

comparing plastic to metal, and the location of the hoses on the different engines, would the plastic hose be easier to replace? Is it in the same general location as the 02-03 models?

[BASARAB]

I removed it today and thats what it looked like
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wJ5qhLDb4Ps/TIvWMx5r1lI/AAAAAAAAAf8/-kPenUzWhgQ/s512/IMG_0005%5B1%5D.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wJ5qhLDb4Ps/TIvWNl9WXQI/AAAAAAAAAgE/urRtcO2LIZs/s512/IMG_0008%5B1%5D.JPG
completely cracked. I replaced it with just a heater hose for now, but I still get the small leak CEL. And car performs the same.

[tapA4]

I removed it today and thats what it looked like
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wJ5qhLDb4Ps/TIvWMx5r1lI/AAAAAAAAAf8/-kPenUzWhgQ/s512/IMG_0005%5B1%5D.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wJ5qhLDb4Ps/TIvWNl9WXQI/AAAAAAAAAgE/urRtcO2LIZs/s512/IMG_0008%5B1%5D.JPG
completely cracked. I replaced it with just a heater hose for now, but I still get the small leak CEL. And car performs the same.

That looks awful! I feel your pain brother! That's what my hose (number 6 in the diagram in your first post) looked like....they're not the same hoses, (obviously) lol but the damage looked just as bad. Took me 7 hours, I replaced just about every hose in the diagram above..No good. haha

[boostedAvant]

Why don't you just pull your intake manifold and replace the whole thing with heater hose from home depot? That's what I did about a month ago when mine took a shit. Now it just dumps to atmosphere. I can take pics of my set up later today and post them if you'd like.

[spyder101]

you guys are misunderstanding what I'm saying. The new plastic pipe has to heated up to the point where it's about to melt and at that time, you slide it over the check vlave assembly. When it cools down the bond is permanant. so there is no just replacing the pipe only (when it splits in half) it's ALL the componants that are "fitted" together. You'l see what I mean when you go put everything back together.

[BASARAB]

Well, I just put a heater hose and a clamp over PCV valve, it was very easy, because I already have replaced PCV couple of months ago, but if u have never done so, its a bitch to do it, especially without removing manifold.

[walky_talky20]

Just a side question here: Anybody have the ETKA photo of the 2004 PCV system? I'm curious now on what exactly is different. I'd like to know which parts need to be changed to convert it to use the metal pipe system.

[spyder101]

Just a side question here: Anybody have the ETKA photo of the 2004 PCV system? I'm curious now on what exactly is different. I'd like to know which parts need to be changed to convert it to use the metal pipe system.

The diagram in the first post utilizes the metal pipe setup. You will need ALL those componants to create the system. None of the pieces can be be swapped over from the new/old system.

[boostedAvant]

The pancake valve is fitted onto the TIP in models before 2004. In 04 they moved it to the back of the breather for the valve cover. I just took mine out and vented the whole thing.

[alpinestar180]

i hate when companies put plastic components in place of metal ones to save money. that drives me nuts. i thought buying an audi was a way around such cheapness, but i guess not

[spyder101]

i hate when companies put plastic components in place of metal ones to save money. that drives me nuts. i thought buying an audi was a way around such cheapness, but i guess not

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHA!!!!!! You thought wrong!!! Since I started working for Audi, the quality in the parts has taken a back seat to the almighty dollar.

[walky_talky20]

Audi VW has taken quite a liking to the plastic parts. Coolant flanges, Diverter valves, PCV crap, even valve covers and intake manifolds. They put the money where you notice it in the showroom and on paper. Stuff like the galvanized body panels, leather seats, all the gadgetry. Then they are forced to completely cheap out on other stuff to make up for it. That's the way it seems to me anyway. VW took this a step further with moving production to Mexico. Ask any Mk4 jetta or New beetle owner with over 100k how that worked out for them, lol.

[BASARAB]

Well my small leak code its gone ( after 6 months fighting with it) and it seems like car holds boost much better now, not sure if this is because weather got colder or me replacing the hose ))) So u guys might wanna check it out, because all my other hoses seem fine, only this one was bad.
Yeah and I got stage 1+ today, congrats to me )))

[a4darkness]

Why don't you just pull your intake manifold and replace the whole thing with heater hose from home depot? That's what I did about a month ago when mine took a shit. Now it just dumps to atmosphere. I can take pics of my set up later today and post them if you'd like.

I would really like to see pics of this but more importantly the specs on the hose you used, Jace.

TIA

[a4darkness]

Congrats! I swear these tiny leaks are the death of our engines, and it's incredible how easily they'll snap back into proper form once they're fixed.


Well my small leak code its gone ( after 6 months fighting with it) and it seems like car holds boost much better now, not sure if this is because weather got colder or me replacing the hose ))) So u guys might wanna check it out, because all my other hoses seem fine, only this one was bad.
Yeah and I got stage 1+ today, congrats to me )))

[a4darkness]

Gotcha, thanks for the info. I'm starting on valves and vac line now and will move into the larger misc hoses later.


For now I just got a regular 5/8 1.5 foot heater hose from Autozone for $1.50 and brass hose connector (in plumbing department) from home depot for $.89. It is just temporarily, because I was advised that this hose and connector will get destroyed from oil. So most likely I will just use silicone house from my first post and hose connector with better quality.

[BASARAB]

Gotcha, thanks for the info. I'm starting on valves and vac line now and will move into the larger misc hoses later.

Yeah, I also replaced check valves with usplastics ones, which got rid of p0299 underboost code. And my all check valves seemed fine when I replaced them.

[a4darkness]

Orly, you did. I was cautioned that they *might* not stand up to the temps that can develop in our engine bays... but that's only a *might* at best. FWIW, maybe keep an eye on them just in case especially now that you're chipped. The extra heat coming off my turbo is disintegrating one of mine more rapidly now so I figured the extra money for the MTC check valves could be worth it.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/d7b2c58d.jpg

[BASARAB]

^^ ouch

[a4darkness]

even a lil Revo Stage 1 = hawwwt

No complaints here though.

[tapA4]

Orly, you did. I was cautioned that they *might* not stand up to the temps that can develop in our engine bays... but that's only a *might* at best. FWIW, maybe keep an eye on them just in case especially now that you're chipped. The extra heat coming off my turbo is disintegrating one of mine more rapidly now so I figured the extra money for the MTC check valves could be worth it.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/d7b2c58d.jpg

Do you know where (other than the dealer) where I could get check valves from? I looked on us plastic...I dunno if I wanna use them, I'm planning on getting APR chip and would feel more comfortable with the
"origional" check valves ya know....I've got a "secondary air injection incorrect flow" code right now and I'm pretty sure it may be 3 of my check valves...

[a4darkness]

Certainly.

You can use the OEM Check Valve and pay a LOT more or the MTC Valve which is considered a standard OEM substitute (unlike the US Plastics ones... but it's not to say they can't work, I just don't know myself).

From my 'Engine Strengthening Thread' here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness



MTC Check Valves (OEM Replacement)
Part #: 058905291K
~$11- $15 (just Google or pick your fav parts site)

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/d085c0f3.jpg


Besides many other sites via searching zee interwebs, in order of less expensive up, you can find them at:
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/
http://genuineaudiparts.com/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/

ECS also has the OEM valves listed if you search on their site.



Do you know where (other than the dealer) where I could get check valves from? I looked on us plastic...I dunno if I wanna use them, I'm planning on getting APR chip and would feel more comfortable with the
"origional" check valves ya know....I've got a "secondary air injection incorrect flow" code right now and I'm pretty sure it may be 3 of my check valves...

[tapA4]

I feel a bit better about myself now! lol I've changed a good many vacuum hoses (still have more to go) I changed 2, 5, 13, and 15 in the diagram at the top of this thread...2 was a cheap plastic piece that was cracked all the way through..no good. My suction pump seems to be "ok"...haven't had any trouble with it yet..I'll still probably change it just as a precautionary measure.

Anyway, in this thread, http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/229635-In-Line-Check-Valves?highlight=in-line, number 1 looks good, and I've already replaced 4. But as far as 2, 3, 5, and 6 go, do you know the difference in valves? 3, 5, and 6 look the same..but 2 looks a bit different..(hate to be confusing or complicated lol)

[a4darkness]

You should, some of those are kinda tough to get at. And I agree, might as well swap em all right?


I feel a bit better about myself now! lol I've changed a good many vacuum hoses (still have more to go) I changed 2, 5, 13, and 15 in the diagram at the top of this thread...2 was a cheap plastic piece that was cracked all the way through..no good. My suction pump seems to be "ok"...haven't had any trouble with it yet..I'll still probably change it just as a precautionary measure.

Yes, for the most part.

I have 2/3 of the valves identified and marked in my thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness). Just have to get a better pic of the three from the back of the engine and then I'll post those as well (2,3,4 in the thread you referenced). That's actually a good point of reference as those three valves (2,3,4) are all different. #4 is actually a three way check valve, #3 is a standard (listed above) and #2 is different (need to check my engine + ETKA again and verify it). I'll be posting all that in my thread later this week. But it should be mentioned that different model years can have some variance so make sure yours looks like what's pictured.

Hope that helps.


http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/229635-In-Line-Check-Valves?highlight=in-line[/url], number 1 looks good, and I've already replaced 4. But as far as 2, 3, 5, and 6 go, do you know the difference in valves? 3, 5, and 6 look the same..but 2 looks a bit different..(hate to be confusing or complicated lol)

[tapA4]

You should, some of those are kinda tough to get at. And I agree, might as well swap em all right?



Yes, for the most part.

I have 2/3 of the valves identified and marked in my thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness). Just have to get a better pic of the three from the back of the engine and then I'll post those as well (2,3,4 in the thread you referenced). That's actually a good point of reference as those three valves (2,3,4) are all different. #4 is actually a three way check valve, #3 is a standard (listed above) and #2 is different (need to check my engine + ETKA again and verify it). I'll be posting all that in my thread later this week. But it should be mentioned that different model years can have some variance so make sure yours looks like what's pictured.

Hope that helps.

I've got a tangible version of the engine diagram..I'm some what "good buddies" with one of the techs up at the audi dealership (seeing as he's helped me with a bunch of other stuff, he knows my face lol), I'll go and see if he can get me part numbers for all the valves. But yes! I will definitely be subscribing to your thread! (It's the same one about engine strengthening is the one I should be subscribing to right? or are you creating a whole new other one?)

[a4darkness]

That's awesome, thanks for the offer. Tell ya what, if I can't figure it out, then call in the favor w/your guy.

I should be able to get all the numbers myself, just need to verify one thing and snap a better pic. The one I already took sucks.... which is more the issue than the part numbers. And yes, the Engine Strengthening one (gonna keep posting in that one, no new threads).

I'll get on it tomorrow.

[tapA4]

That's awesome, thanks for the offer. Tell ya what, if I can't figure it out, then call in the favor w/your guy.

I should be able to get all the numbers myself, just need to verify one thing and snap a better pic. The one I already took sucks.... which is more the issue than the part numbers. And yes, the Engine Strengthening one (gonna keep posting in that one, no new threads).

I'll get on it tomorrow.

Alright man! Sounds good, lemme know if there's anything I can assist with.
Yeah, getting those part numbers seemed like a bear (atleast for me anyway..but that's cause half of mine are melted off and can't even be read anymore! hah)
But I'll definitely be looking out for those posts! They're much appreciated! I'll take all the help I can get (I'm sure I speak for most in that statement lol)

[a4darkness]

Most certainly, appreciate it.

It's more matching the pieces of the car up with the ETKA diagrams as they rarely seem to, well, match. Basically, exploded version looks little like the real thing. It's kinda funny... I'll have the diagram on one monitor and a close up pic of my engine bay on the other monitor trying to match em up.

Happy to help, hence why I started that thread. ;-)


Alright man! Sounds good, lemme know if there's anything I can assist with.
Yeah, getting those part numbers seemed like a bear (atleast for me anyway..but that's cause half of mine are melted off and can't even be read anymore! hah)
But I'll definitely be looking out for those posts! They're much appreciated! I'll take all the help I can get (I'm sure I speak for most in that statement lol)

[tapA4]

Most certainly, appreciate it.

It's more matching the pieces of the car up with the ETKA diagrams as they rarely seem to, well, match. Basically, exploded version looks little like the real thing. It's kinda funny... I'll have the diagram on one monitor and a close up pic of my engine bay on the other monitor trying to match em up.

Happy to help, hence why I started that thread. ;-)

Looking forward to it all! =D

[BASARAB]

you guys are misunderstanding what I'm saying. The new plastic pipe has to heated up to the point where it's about to melt and at that time, you slide it over the check vlave assembly. When it cools down the bond is permanant. so there is no just replacing the pipe only (when it splits in half) it's ALL the componants that are "fitted" together. You'l see what I mean when you go put everything back together.

Well now I see what u were saying. I decided to get an OEM part, which u can see on the very top of this thread. It looks like its impossible to slide it on the valve. So the question is, how to heat it up?

[walky_talky20]

At our shop we have a heat gun. It is basically just an industrial strength hair dryer, though.

[PRY4SNO]

Wow, wish I would've been able to find this thread the weekend before last. =oP

Two weekends ago I was doing the simple job of replacing my CTS with my brother (who's far more experienced at DIYs than I am) and we used the walk-through on www.a4mods.com but couldn't fit it back in once removed. Lost the new clip inside the engine bay somewhere, and broke the old one after we removed the three way valve/fitting (#3). So it wasn't too frustrating when I was noticed that the crankcase breather hose (#9) was almost completely torn off, since God knows when, at the connection where #9 meets #3.

Used vagcat.com to find the PN and ordered it from a local tuner (since I found out the stealership wanted >25% extra). Wasn't so sure it'd work because there was a rubber hose with no clamps existing on my car, and I received a metal tube. When it was all said and done a friend from work and myself were able to remove the old hose using an exacto knife and some force, without removing the intake manifold. Just takes some snaking of the hands and patience. Undoing the coilpack wiring harness (and ground) and moving aside doesn't hurt either. However, the new metal tube required a coupling to fit up properly. Enter some generic (I used Prestone brand) heater hose, 19mm (3/4") diameter, cut at about 2" length. Also, the bolt bracket at the bottom (adjoining the 90* bend) was trimmed off using a hacksaw and file for better install and fit.

Since the car came without a hose clamp from factory I simply reinstalled the new breather tube and makeshift coupling without a hose clamp and so far it works just fine, up past 130mph and over 550km in a single day.

And to think I was going to take detailed pictures for a DIY and figured that nobody else ever had this exact same issue!!

FWIW, I also had a persistent underboost code (same as mentioned earlier) and it's not returned since I last cleared the codes. But I've also replaced my fuel pump which was also a suspect. Either way, she's nearly back to 100%.

[BASARAB]

Well, I was heating it with a lighter and near electric stove.It looked like its about to melt, but I still was not able to fit it in. So I just gave up and put heater hose back on. Will try again when the engine is hot

[PRY4SNO]

Maybe I'm missing something, but I didn't heat anything up and it all fit together fine.

2" long section of 3/4" heater hose onto metal breather hose (#9) into three-way valve (#3). Done.

[BASARAB]

Maybe I'm missing something, but I didn't heat anything up and it all fit together fine.

2" long section of 3/4" heater hose onto metal breather hose (#9) into three-way valve (#3). Done.

What year is your car? On my 04 n9 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/06B103213AK/ES259526/) is made from plastic and I am having hard time connecting it to n6, which is http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/06A103245F/ES7940/

[PRY4SNO]

What year is your car? On my 04 n9 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/06B103213AK/ES259526/) is made from plastic and I am having hard time connecting it to n6, which is http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/06A103245F/ES7940/

Hm.

2004 A4 1.8TQM

(Image from local forum post I made @ eurodrivers.ca (http://www.eurodrivers.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=20059&page=2), post #28)

http://www.vagcat.com/p/B273/103680.png

I think you mean #9 to #5? Or at least I do.

Either way, after the crankcase breather hose (CBH) you need a 2" hose coupling to mate the CBH (#9) to the valve (#5) because you're replacing it with a (guessing) superseded part (from rubber hose to metal tubing). UPGRADE! Be sure to trim and smooth the bolt bracket at the bottom of the 90 on the metal tube to make the install easier. All the brackets can go if you like, but only the bottom one needs to be trimmed in essence.

[BASARAB]

That diagram is correct for 02-03, but not for 04. On my car the n5 and n6 is one part, which I posted above in ecstuning link. I connect everything exactly as it suppose to be, but because n9 is brand new I have hard putting it on lol

[PRY4SNO]

VIN split! Is yours an early '04 or a later '04? I know the parts guy at the stealership mentioned that early '04 MY cars have non-Aero wipers...

Does this look more accurate?

http://www.vagcat.com/p/B249/103900.png

EDIT: NM, it's also a two piece.

Maybe it's a slip-on hose/fitting kind of connection and appears to be one part?

Anyways with my '04 I didn't have to heat anything and just used the heater hose to secure the metal tube (PN#9) to the t-valve (PN#5).

[walky_talky20]

So far this thread has not shown an accurate ETKA diagram of the [late?] 2004 1.8T PCV setup which includes the funky 4-way PCV valve:http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/06A103245F/ES7940/

I think the inclusion of this diagram would help make sense of all this.

[old guy]

So far this thread has not shown an accurate ETKA diagram of the [late?] 2004 1.8T PCV setup which includes the funky 4-way PCV valve:http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/06A103245F/ES7940/

I think the inclusion of this diagram would help make sense of all this.

As BASARAB pointed out it replaces #5 and #6 in the diagram on post #50. The large vent hose from the block breather plugs into one side of the "T" and the large breather from the valve cover plugs into the other side of the "T" creating a path to equalize the pressures between the block and valve cover. Air is then drawn through the metering valve (a small spring loaded metal disc) just downstream of the "T". The side port with a check valve connects to the small vent line that runs up to the small metal nipple coming off the back of the valve cover. The bottom of the "T" connects to the vacuum source (intake manifold). The diagram in post #52 is for an earlier model without the second vent line and with the PRV located at the TIP rather than on the back of the valve cover. The two large breather lines connect with a rubber "T" and the air is metered through a single block breather. Clicky click (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Pvc_Valve/ES5957/)

EDIT: Oops! Sorry! I just realized that I was answering a question on an old thread. It was linked to a newer thread that I was reviewing.

[a4darkness]

Don't apologize... glad it's answered.

[04blackout]

Sorry to ressurect this, but I thought it might be appropriate for the next guy looking for this.

I was changing my valve cover gasket this weekend on my '04 B6 1.8T and I think I accidentally severed the breather hose in question on this thread (#9). I took a pic, which shows the clean break right across the top of the bracket under the F hose:

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc395/04blackout/IMG00386-20110515-1956.jpg

I, too, have the non-metal edition of this hose/pipe. However, I'm looking to avoid the headache of trying to retrofit the 02-03 version or trying to slide the 04 version on the valve assembly down low.

What I'm thinking is that since the break is up at the top, I might be able to simply cut the broken hose right below the bracket and throw an appropriately sized hose barb fitting in between the F hose and the old breather hose.

2 questions:

1. How secure/polished does this assembly need to be? Is my workaround likely to not be clean enough and/or trigger a CEL? (Haven't gotten a light yet on the quick trip around the block, but I am not 100% this actually happened this weekend.) Since there's no clamp on the bottom, I'm thinking so long as I get a reasonably tight temporary solution with the fitting and clamps, I should be fine, and I can save myself a trip to the dealer for a part I may need to hack up anyway.

2. Anyone know the inner diameter of the F hose and breather hose?

If this works, it might save others some headaches, as I notice in searching that a lot of the breaks occur up top where things are a whole lot more accessible.

(I definitely broke 058 133 785 too up front - thanks 1-time use clips!)