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vjborelli

05-30-2012, 02:49 PM

Any negative side effects to replacing the larger check valve with the new Us plastics check valves?

a4darkness

05-30-2012, 04:35 PM

Absolutely none, you're good to go.

igo4uga0586

05-30-2012, 06:32 PM

Yupp. I did this ^^^

a4darkness

06-22-2012, 01:22 AM

Cleaning The MAF

First, WTF is a MAF? Well it's short for Mass Airflow Sensor. The sensor is located inside a really intricate and complex section of black plastic pipe. Ok, not so much.
When air enters the intake, it travels through the airbox (or into a cone filter of sorts) and then passes through this section of plastic pipe.
Inside said pipe, there's a sensor that measure the volume of air passing through on it's way to the turbo via the TIP.
The MAF reports this volume to the ECU which it combines with other data to adjust the amount of fuel being fed to the injectors.

If you're experiencing low mileage, slight dips in performance or it's never been touched in ~92k miles... probably time to clean it.
This should take you all of maybe 45 min, the bulk of that being time for the MAF cleaner to dry. Super easy.

This method involves removal of the entire MAF housing, but not the sensor from the housing.
Reason being, it minimizes any potential damage to the sensor and allows for much better application of the MAF cleaner.

First and most importantly, you'll need:

CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41fX171WA3L._SS500_.jpg

Yes, there might be other ways to do this but the MAFs in our engines are far more sensitive so skip the alcohol baths and use the CRC.

Past there, just some screwdrivers.

Start by pulling the air intake.
Remove the two screws in the front, then pull up on the back part to remove the rear assembly and last the front portion.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0199.jpg

Unplug the MAF sensor wire from the top of the MAF housing and disconnect the TIP from the MAF as well.
Helps if you bend the heat shield out of the way.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0200.jpg

There are only two screws holding the MAF in place, one up top here

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0201.jpg

and another one down below on the right. A short screwdriver and a magnet tool work well here.
Don't worry about the security torx on top of the MAF housing that hold the sensor in place. Those won't be touched.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0203.jpg

And she's out!

Do keep in mind that your TIP which feeds [i]directly[/] to the turbo is now exposed.
The last thing you want is FOD so maybe drop a towel over this area just in case. God knows what kind of monkeys you've got crawlin around your garage!

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0204.jpg

From here, set up some shop towels on a stand of some kind and begin hosing down the MAF sensor inside the housing.
I was giving each side a nice coating for a few seconds, rotate and spray again etc. Probably hit each side about 4 times.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0205.jpg

Here's the important part. Let the MAF dry. Completely. Yes, it dries fast but leave if for 20 min or so just to be safe. Then reassemble.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0206.jpg

Lastly, be sure to add some dielectric grease to the MAF sensor plug. A clean sensor is kinda worthless if the connection isn't being made so well.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0212.jpg

That's about it. See? Really nothing to it.
As for results when I started up the car and let it idle for a bit, it was pretty obvious the ECU was thinking for a moment as the idle characteristics were slightly different. Took a tad longer for the RPMs to drop as well.
But when they did, the idle was very smooth... a bit better than before. While driving, I noticed a very slight increase in off boost power and acceleration was smoother as well. Good stuff.
Haven't yet logged to see what the difference in grams per second might be but thus far I'm banking on an improvement overall. Hoping to see an increase in mileage too, will report back about both accordingly.

Huge thanks to Jace/BoostedAvant for answering all my stupid questions about this one. Herpaderp I can clean a MAF.
Side note, Jace has really been stepping up his photog game... be sure to take a look at his latest work from Wuste (http://www.rogueeuro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=482) and Leavenworth (http://www.rogueeuro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=486). Turns out Calvin is handy with the steel as well. Euro eye candy galooore. Checkityo!

[-Thread Navigation-] (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5651766&viewfull=1#post5651766)

boostedAvant

06-22-2012, 01:36 AM

You got it buddy! Nice work [up] I don't mean to step on your toes at all here buddy, but I thought some more info on how a MAF actually works could be good info for people to have. Basically the element that is screwed into the "tube" that is the MAF housing is a heater grid of sorts. The computer tries to keep said element at the same temperature all the time, this is achieved by sending higher voltage to the "heater grid". As air flow increases over the element or "heater grid" (increasing RPM) the ECU sends more voltage to the element. Based on how much the ECU has to adjust voltage to the element to keep the element the same temperature, it is able to know how much air (where the g/s reading comes from) is going past the element.

a4darkness

06-22-2012, 02:01 AM

This is why Jace is in charge.

boostedAvant

06-22-2012, 02:06 AM

This is why Jace is in charge.

Hahahahah Wuste 2012 will go down in history as the best trip ever, until Wuste 2013 that is.

nein-reis

06-22-2012, 10:11 AM

Hahahahah Wuste 2012 will go down in history as the best trip ever, until Wuste 2013 that is.

[rolleyes] Best ever... yeah, while you were at the hard rock pool... Thomas and I got to see a different flavor of Vegas. lol

a4darkness

06-22-2012, 10:40 AM

[rolleyes] Best ever... yeah, while you were at the hard rock pool... Thomas and I got to see a different flavor of Vegas. lol

Could have been lifted straight out of a movie, wouldn't trade it for a day at the Hard Rock Pool ever. Hilarious.

boostedAvant

06-22-2012, 01:06 PM

[rolleyes] Best ever... yeah, while you were at the hard rock pool... Thomas and I got to see a different flavor of Vegas. lol

Hahahahah Sorry! Maybe if you knew how to build a car you could have been partying with us at the HR pool..

nein-reis

06-22-2012, 01:10 PM

Hahahahah Sorry! Maybe if you knew how to build a car you could have been partying with us at the HR pool..

I partied with your mom instead.

boostedAvant

06-22-2012, 01:11 PM

She's a blast to party with. How'd it go?

a4darkness

06-22-2012, 01:14 PM

She's a blast to party with. How'd it go?

Brought everything but hose clamps.

nein-reis

06-22-2012, 01:16 PM

She's a blast to party with. How'd it go?

Meh, although I'm pretty sure she gave Thomas the clap.

boostedAvant

06-22-2012, 01:17 PM

What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas... Except for that..

a4darkness

06-25-2012, 01:49 PM

2.0T/FSI Coil Pack Conversion

----

EDIT 01-05-16
Current coil pack are Red Tops -> 06E905115E (use these but keeping old info below in this post anyway)
If you don't prefer the boot cut method, there are OEM spacers that can be slightly modified to work as well. OEM Spacers 077905390

-----

As more than a few of you guys have already made the switch to the 2.0 coils and had positive results, it was only a matter of time before I did so myself. Jace's comments concerning improvements in off-boost power, overall smoothness and better MPG was the final convincing I needed to do so.

For some time now I've been running NGK BKR7EIX's (#2667) with no complains and positive results. So those were going to stay for the time being. Picked up a new set the old one's were due for a swap anyway.

I opted to remove the rubber sleeves from a set of old CPs so I dove into my emergency trunk bag for my extras. Turns out, the pantry was overstocked!

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0215.jpg

I had a full set of R's and two brand new D's that I bought last year when CP's dropped to ~$10. If you didn't own a B5 or never had the old rev CP's this might seem a tad excessive. Funny now, but back then pretty standard.

First, here's what the previous gen R's (upper) look like against the D's (lower). I never compared them closely and it's pretty easy to see the changes. I was more concerned about the rubber sleeves as they'd become my adapters and was ready to cut up my D's (which BTW are still looking/running fine after 2+ yrs). But as you can see, the sleeves on the R's are a bit shorter but lot thicker, especially at the base... perfect for this application.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0216.jpg

Top down: R - D - 06H 905 115 A
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0217.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0218.jpg

Height / boot differences between the R D and FSI
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0219.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0223.jpg

Took some measurements,
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0221.jpg

and then started cutting. The rubber is pretty easy to get through, just use a sharp, exact instrument like this. Razor blade should be fine too.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0222.jpg

Sleeves from the R's on the FSI's. I also added some dielectric grease to the base of the coil packs to aid in connection to the spark plugs.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0227.jpg

Installing here. As you can see, the extra rubber sleeve provides both a perfect base outside of the chamber for the new CP and also completely fills the diameter of the opening.
Again, added dielectric grease to each of the coil pack plugs too.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0228.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0229.jpg

Each one moved into place and made the same *click* sound when connecting with the spark plugs, no play or movement thus far.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0230.jpg

Initially while driving around, I didn't feel much of a difference. Acceleration was smoother and idle was dead silent + dropped ~200rpm but not much more. Figured, eh maybe this one will be more about better MPGs.
But after a TBA + code clear (to reset fuel trims), and some driving around town things started to change a bit. There was a bit more pickup than before, albeit minor.

Yesterday I got on the freeway for the 1st time and was very surprised to feel a noticeable increase in off-boost power and what I'll call cleaner acceleration. It's like the mechanism of the engine has been refined and polished.
I was really stoked on it and can only imagine how these characteristics might be even more significant for those with more powerful setups. Bottom line, this mod is a win.

Since these CP's are here to stay, I'll now be picking up a set of Integrated Engineering's beautiful red adapters (http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-coilpack-adapter-set-for-1-8t-with-fsi-tsi-coilpacks.html) as well, especially when I finally get closer to going big turbo.

----

EDIT 01-05-16
Current coil pack are Red Tops -> 06E905115E (use these but keeping old info below in this post anyway)

----

As for the different coil packs out there, there are no differences - just numbers and colors. The most current at the time of this post = 06H905115A

RED MKV FSI Coil Packs - 06E 905 115
BLACK MKV FSI Coil Packs - 07K 905 715 F
BLACK MKV TSI Coil Packs - 06F 905 115 F (now supersedes to 07K)
BLACK MKVI TSI Coil Packs - 06H 905 115 A (*115B = stop sell in favor of A)

As for spark plug gap...
NGK (2667) BKR7EIX Iridium -> .032" gap from factory
NGK (3764) BKR6EIX-11 Iridium -> .044" gap from factory

I'm now considering trying out the 11's to utilize the increased gap. Wanted to see how the 7's felt first before making the jump.

Some might not agree with me on this one, but as I understand it the gap on Iridium / Platinum plugs is more finite in order for the plug to work properly. Hence, the gap from the factory is set far more accurately than coppers. Additionally, b/c the material on these plugs is more sensitive, there's a far greater chance in harming the plug tip when attempting to re-gap. But for most, that doesn't really seem necessary as the 11's are .044 out of the box, exactly what we need.

[-Thread Navigation-] (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5651766&viewfull=1#post5651766)

daihashi

06-25-2012, 02:00 PM

evo_ski

06-25-2012, 02:15 PM

FYI you can simply slide the rubber portions off of the stock CP's rather than cutting them off. I simply used a flathead and a pick tool and stuck it underneath to help slide it bit by bit off. I also just switched from 6eix11's to 7eix11's and I think the 7's seem to be slightly better. However that could be attributed to my brand new cylinder head.... but that's a whole 'nother can of worms.

a4darkness

06-25-2012, 02:36 PM

yep, the only very obvious change to me is the smoothness that the coilpacks delivered. Everything else is hard to measure/gauge... since things like off boost power or the very minor increase in MPG may only be my perception. I've yet to go larger than the .04 gap that come on the NGK's that I'm running, but have been interested in trying to move closer to the .05 realm like diagnosticator runs on his.
With that said, these coils are one of my favorite upgrades on my car.

I agree 100%. These things are VERY hard to accurately gauge. But the moment I hit the clover leaf on-ramp and laid into the accelerator there was a more robust pickup that was not present before. Nothing crazy, but it was there... even when the D's were brand new they never delivered like this. However, I really like the incremental differences made by mods like this cause they really add up. But I'd be the 1st to admit if it was a bust or nominal.

I already started digging around for an iridium plug that comes pregapped in the .05 range but was unsure if that was exceeding the reasonable limits. However, the more I think about this 11's seem like a better choice even now.

yep, the only very obvious change to me is the smoothness that the coilpacks delivered. Everything else is hard to measure/gauge... since things like off boost power or the very minor increase in MPG may only be my perception. I've yet to go larger than the .04 gap that come on the NGK's that I'm running, but have been interested in trying to move closer to the .05 realm like diagnosticator runs on his.
With that said, these coils are one of my favorite upgrades on my car.

FYI you can simply slide the rubber portions off of the stock CP's rather than cutting them off. I simply used a flathead and a pick tool and stuck it underneath to help slide it bit by bit off. I also just switched from 6eix11's to 7eix11's and I think the 7's seem to be slightly better. However that could be attributed to my brand new cylinder head.... but that's a whole 'nother can of worms.

First of all, really stoked you were able to save the Avant. Was pretty mortified to hear the initial news.

As for the cutting, I can't speak to the D's but the R's weren't sliding off so I just grabbed my OLFA cutter and sliced em up. I'm pretty sure they were attached to the plastic CP body, but maybe it was b/c of this goop on the underside? Who knows. Regardless, good tip.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMG_0237.jpg

evo_ski

06-25-2012, 02:59 PM

Ahhh, that very well could be. I am not sure what revision my original ones were. But yeah, I agree whole heartedly with your review. A bit better throttle response and it just feels like the car has just a little bit more "grunt".

Yeah, I am incredibly relieved I got it back running again, I was definitely worried there for a minute.

There is no way I would have been able to keep my car running as well as it is and save it from its head gasket issues and other problems without members on here such as yourself offering up information and help on a variety of different topics. With all of the check valves I swapped out and with the new cylinder head my boost literally sits and camps out at 18psi now. Before it would bounce up, hit 18 and then jump on down to around 12 or so. And with all the info you laid out it is an incredibly easy thing to do.

a4darkness

06-25-2012, 03:03 PM

Happy to have helped out! [wrench]

evo_ski

06-25-2012, 03:05 PM

Haha, yeah, I pretty much used your suspension install thread as the bible when I did my suspension install, and it also helped me out on motor mounts too. It is just so awesome the amount of info that can be had on here.

AudiRob

06-25-2012, 04:25 PM

Just want to voice this out - MANY Thanks to A4Darkness for this comprehensive list of information. Truly usefully for any DIY and gives you an idea on where to start.

Thanks again A4Darkness

-AudiRob

boostedAvant

06-25-2012, 05:51 PM

Yay Noti!

a4darkness

06-26-2012, 03:10 PM

Ahh hell knock it off fellas, far too kind. Will continue as best I can.

Quick update on the new coils, the ECU has adjusted further and there is now a significant increase - especially top end on the freeway. If you're still on the fence about this, don't be! Worth every penny.

AudiRob

06-26-2012, 05:15 PM

How much for the set of CP?

Ahh hell knock it off fellas, far too kind. Will continue as best I can.

Quick update on the new coils, the ECU has adjusted further and there is now a significant increase - especially top end on the freeway. If you're still on the fence about this, don't be! Worth every penny.

daihashi

06-26-2012, 05:25 PM

How much for the set of CP?

I got mine for $17 a piece. Total of $68, free shipping to my door step. <3

DownhillA4

06-26-2012, 05:31 PM

I got mine for $17 a piece. Total of $68, free shipping to my door step. <3

From where? & they fit in our car without any modifications? A4darkness you can chime in on my questions as well. Thanks!

daihashi

06-26-2012, 05:37 PM

From where? & they fit in our car without any modifications? A4darkness you can chime in on my questions as well. Thanks!

rmeuropean.com ; The coils fit if just fine if you take the rubber sleeve from your old coils, or another used set if you have them, and slide them over the TFSI coils. The TFSI coils are longer and the rubber sleeve on them does not reach into the spark plug well, which is remedied by the aforementioned solution. Or you can just buy the bolt down coil adapters and that works too. I chose to go the cheap route, I have no issues with them cracking or sliding out of place. They're in as tight as the day I first installed them. :)

edit: looks like they raised the price. They're $19.50 now, I paid $17.06 back in May.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Ignition-Coil-With-Spark-Plug-Connector-(4-Per-Car)-__06H905115B_BOS_94E6B777.aspx

DownhillA4

06-26-2012, 06:09 PM

rmeuropean.com ; The coils fit if just fine if you take the rubber sleeve from your old coils, or another used set if you have them, and slide them over the TFSI coils. The TFSI coils are longer and the rubber sleeve on them does not reach into the spark plug well, which is remedied by the aforementioned solution. Or you can just buy the bolt down coil adapters and that works too. I chose to go the cheap route, I have no issues with them cracking or sliding out of place. They're in as tight as the day I first installed them. :)

edit: looks like they raised the price. They're $19.50 now, I paid $17.06 back in May.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Ignition-Coil-With-Spark-Plug-Connector-(4-Per-Car)-__06H905115B_BOS_94E6B777.aspx

Thanks. I checked germanautoparts who has them for $18.72 & GAP has them for $17.86. I used the part number that was supplied by RMEuropean.com. Seems like it may be a worthwhile small upgrade, I wonder if they are more reliable. Already have 4 back-up coilpacks in my trunk.

A4darkness, did you ever do a Podi boost gauge install DIY by any chance?

Charles.waite

06-26-2012, 10:44 PM

I disagree with everyone and think this thread is useless and a waste of audizine bandwidth. I mean there's nothing here you couldn't learn anyway through 10-20 hours worth of searching. People are so lazy these days.

[evilsmile]

boostedAvant

06-26-2012, 10:54 PM

LOL CP!!

evo_ski

06-26-2012, 11:03 PM

there's nothing here you couldn't learn anyway through 10-20 hours worth of searching. People are so lazy these days.

[evilsmile]

Hahahaha, so true. Damn kids!

I can second RM european, those guys are great, I have picked up a few things in the past from them including these coilpacks. Sounds like at the moment GAP might be cheaper though.

a4darkness

06-26-2012, 11:10 PM

From where? & they fit in our car without any modifications? A4darkness you can chime in on my questions as well. Thanks!
RM had the best pricing for a while but it seems they're wise to our ways. Anywhere from $17-$19 seems like the average rate right now. I got em locally for about this as well.

Outside of what I posted and daihashi mentioned there's no other modifications necessary. Let's just say yesterday evening included a rather extensive road test and everything worked fine. The new coils remained firmly planted in their seats and performed really well.

A4darkness, did you ever do a Podi boost gauge install DIY by any chance?
Did the install a while back but never had time to post it back then. But I do now and will get it up soon.

LOL CP!!
x2!!

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 02:42 AM

Huge thanks to Jace/BoostedAvant for answering all my stupid questions about this one. Herpaderp I can clean a MAF.
Side note, Jace has really been stepping up his photog game... be sure to take a look at his latest work from Wuste (http://www.rogueeuro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=482) and Leavenworth (http://www.rogueeuro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=486). Turns out Calvin is handy with the steel as well. Euro eye candy galooore. Checkityo!

[-Thread Navigation-] (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5651766&viewfull=1#post5651766)

Thanks for the props Noti!

You know, I just realized that, while I'm no stranger to this thread, I've never posted in here! I've read nearly every page and many of them multiple times. It's a fantastic reference. Thanks Noti for working so hard on it! Happy to be reading info on the 2.0 coils as that's gonna be a definite future update.

I did notice that noone has mentioned the 2.0 coilpack adapters that Integrated Engineering makes. If you use the adapters, I would assume you wouldn't need to switch the boot over from your OEM coils...... But, I have yet to have any hands-on experience with these.

IE 2.0 Coilpack Adapters
Type 1 (http://www.intengineering.com/billet-accessories/integrated-engineering-coilpack-adapter-set-for-1-8t-with-fsi-tsi-coilpacks.html)
Type 2 (http://www.intengineering.com/billet-accessories/integrated-engineering-coilpack-adapter-set-for-058-1-8t-early-with-fsi-tsi-coilpacks.html)
I actually don't get why there are two different types of adapters, is it just an appearance thing?

A4darkness, did you ever do a Podi boost gauge install DIY by any chance?
Did the install a while back but never had time to post it back then. But I do now and will get it up soon.

I'm gonna keep an eye out for your DIY on this, Noti. I thought I did a pretty solid install of my Podi and I feel I may have something to add to this.

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 07:58 AM

FSI coils are great. I've had mine in for a few months now and I've got nothing but good things to say about them. No adapters either and I still haven't transferred the boots over (yikes) but they're staying in very solidly. I would highly recommend the upgrade. Especially since they're cheaper than rev D coils.

waldo1324

06-27-2012, 08:42 AM

sooo, on that 3 way check valve, can t i just use a t fitting and two of the leftover US Plastics i have?

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 08:55 AM

sooo, on that 3 way check valve, can t i just use a t fitting and two of the leftover US Plastics i have?

You probably don't even need two as the "t" is after the check valve.

waldo1324

06-27-2012, 09:16 AM

You probably don't even need two as the "t" is after the check valve.

damn you and your book learnin charles!

yah good observation. im finally pulling that mani and using your breather elbow + PCV valve. ill throw the results in your thread

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 09:19 AM

Haha nice. Do work.

And try not to cause too much collateral damage.

boy412

06-27-2012, 10:40 AM

I already started digging around for an iridium plug that comes pregapped in the .05 range but was unsure if that was exceeding the reasonable limits. However, the more I think about this 11's seem like a better choice even now.

Glad you are liking the FSI coil packs. Definitely something to be said for that hotter spark!

I am curious about your plug choice. Is that BKR6E-IX (iridium) plug cold enough for your application? I am interested in hearing your impressions if/when you open up the gap on your plugs a bit wider. I didn't even know there was a BKR7EIX-11! I guess I could have looked. I may try a set of those next time I change my oil. I change the copper plugs every OCI, since they are so cheap.

BTW, I installed my replacement 06H "A" coil packs this morning. Hopefully these are less prone to cracking.

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 10:40 AM

Haha nice. Do work.

And try not to cause too much collateral damage.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjcyWDQ0Ng==/$(KGrHqF,!g8E8fYjq8H(BPOO4NC,uw~~60_3.JPG

OMG I'm such a nerd... [facepalm]

a4darkness

06-27-2012, 10:52 AM

Thanks for the props Noti!
You know, I just realized that, while I'm no stranger to this thread, I've never posted in here! I've read nearly every page and many of them multiple times. It's a fantastic reference. Thanks Noti for working so hard on it! Happy to be reading info on the 2.0 coils as that's gonna be a definite future update.

Again, really stoked to hear the thread is being well received.

I did notice that noone has mentioned the 2.0 coilpack adapters that Integrated Engineering makes. If you use the adapters, I would assume you wouldn't need to switch the boot over from your OEM coils...... But, I have yet to have any hands-on experience with these.

Whaaaa?

Since these CP's are here to stay, I'll now be picking up a set of Integrated Engineering's beautiful red adapters (http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-coilpack-adapter-set-for-1-8t-with-fsi-tsi-coilpacks.html) as well, especially when I finally get closer to going big turbo.

I'm gonna keep an eye out for your DIY on this, Noti. I thought I did a pretty solid install of my Podi and I feel I may have something to add to this.
I'll try to get it up prior to leaving for Oregon. The DIY on a4mods still covers almost everything but there's a few tips I could probably add to the stack.

This brings up an important point... if you're reading/tracking this thread and have questions or maybe a contribution of your own by all means speak up! Also, no question is ever too remedial.

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 11:01 AM

a4darkness

06-27-2012, 11:04 AM

I'm gonna disagree on this one, retain the the 3-way check valve Waldo. This area is really sensitive to minor changes in pressure and whatnot. Exactly like yourself, I found it really annoying to need a special check valve here but as you can see it's tied into a number of lines in the area and if you start slightly pinching lines back there it messes with everything. Saying $15 isn't worth the hassle man.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/583c03b7.jpg

(Chris, this shot has been so helpful... thanks again.)

Waldo, if you don't want to spring for the OEM or less expensive version on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Vacuum-07C133529A-Passat-Quattro/dp/B002T2WO92), I've found you a $12 eBay special. Gitit son!

07C 133 529 A
http://compare.ebay.com/like/270869678372?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y

You probably don't even need two as the "t" is after the check valve.

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 11:08 AM

Waldo, if you don't want to spring for the OEM or less expensive version on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Vacuum-07C133529A-Passat-Quattro/dp/B002T2WO92), I've found you a $12 eBay special. Gitit son!

07C 133 529 A
http://compare.ebay.com/like/270869678372?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y

Oh man you just out-eBayed Waldo. Say it isn't so!

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 11:20 AM

Whaaaa?

Apparently I can't read... [facepalm]

a4darkness

06-27-2012, 11:41 AM

I just installed my Podi two weeks ago too. So I could help out. I didn't want to cut/splice any wires so I used spade connectors for 12V constant and switched and used some random empty fuse terminals that fit the bill after testing them with my multimeter. Been working quite well, though they don't seem to be super secure so I may try to modify them down the line.

I really feel ya on this one C, it's always highly unnerving when splicing into OEM wires. But the good part is that it's one of the easiest things to repair or replace if you mess up. I'm banking your method worked fine and likely looks better that what I did too. ;-)

Oh man you just out-eBayed Waldo. Say it isn't so!

Jokes aside, Waldo is the most vocal of a vast amount of fellas on AZ who either can't or don't want to spend a lot of cash on parts. However, the upside is that if he's willing to take the risk on something like that check valve and it works... we ALL benefit. That said...

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/MISC/Waldo_bested_like_a_sir.jpg

daihashi

06-27-2012, 11:51 AM

Jokes aside, Waldo is the most vocal of a vast amount of fellas on AZ who either can't or don't want to spend a lot of cash on parts. However, the upside is that if he's willing to take the risk on something like that check valve and it works... we ALL benefit. That said...

lol, I'm pretty cheap myself but I'm definitely a lot quieter about it than Waldo. Mostly because people here get their panties in a wad: "ZOMG YOUR CAR IS GOING TO EXPLODE!! NON AUDI GENUINE WTF!$!$!!!$^^!LOL^BBQ!!". Which I've never understood. Parts fail, shit happens. I have no issue with ebay and understand the parts are not OEM and may require some work to make things fit, or investigate the quality/design prior to placing it on the car. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose... in most of my cases I win and the situations where I've lost it was only a few bucks and well worth the effort to try.

Precaution and Experience can circumvent risk and result in lots of $$$ saved, and I do enjoy $$$ considering how poor I am lately :(.

boostedAvant

06-27-2012, 11:52 AM

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 11:53 AM

I will admit I've been pricing out brake rotors and pads on eBay. So ashamed... [:)]

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 11:54 AM

daihashi

06-27-2012, 11:55 AM

I will admit I've been pricing out brake rotors and pads on eBay. So ashamed... [:)]

Step 1: Look on ebay
Step 2: purchase cheapy parts
step 3: ?????
Step 4: PROFIT!!!

nein-reis

06-27-2012, 11:58 AM

Calvin, the reason that there are two different coil pack adapters from IE is because one is for our 06A block and one is for the 058 block (and 2.7t as well IIRC) The valve covers are different so a different adapter had to be made to use the 2.0 TSI/FSI coils.

Edit: No boot needed if you purchase the adapters Calvin. That's why you get the adapters [:p] The reason you put the boot on is to create a form of seal on the coil pack. Since the TSI/FSI coils are longer, having the boot on the bottom helps keep it into place. If you order the adapters the seal that is already on the TSI/FSI coil will seal against the adapter. Look at my project thread, I took a few pictures of them on there, that might help clear some of these questions up.

Some early 06A valve covers like TT225 and some other transverse also use the bolt down coil packs. Any valve cover that uses the bolt down coil packs has a different design and will use the square adapters, while all the valve covers that came with push down coil packs use the diamond shaped ones... they will both actually work either way, it just matches the valve cover and looks more visually pleasing to have the right shape adapter.

boostedAvant

06-27-2012, 12:02 PM

The man has spoken.

nein-reis

06-27-2012, 12:02 PM

Early "bolt down VC" Notice the square shape around the coilpack bolt down area.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/stkshftgti/IMG_0725.jpg
This is a push down VC, notice there is no square area.

http://www.picpile.net/ims/pic.php?u=201W2n2D&i=41247

The bolt holes line up the same, and both adapters work on either VC. The diamond adapters just look really strange and have a odd gap when installed on a early VC. All B6's should have the newer push down VC, so the diamond style is fine for all of you.

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 12:04 PM

I just installed my Podi two weeks ago too. So I could help out. I didn't want to cut/splice any wires so I used spade connectors for 12V constant and switched and used some random empty fuse terminals that fit the bill after testing them with my multimeter. Been working quite well, though they don't seem to be super secure so I may try to modify them down the line.

You, good sir, need one of these:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kTGSzdlA98A/T-tT7f1v5jI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/0ENZ5oBYCTo/s1024/Add-A-Cicuit%2520Circled.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2NNOl5ROOtQ/T-tXel61QmI/AAAAAAAAA6k/sJfB2AKE5dE/s1024/Add-A-Circuit%2520Podi%2520Fuses.jpg

Add-A-Circuit. You can find it at O'Reilly Auto Parts. They have them for regular and mini fuses. I ran mine off the mini 5 amp pictured. I'm using a 3 amp fuse for the Podi. It's been working great and it's totally reversible! I made no permanent changes other than the small hole I made in the wire harness hose to run my wires through the ECU box and into the cabin. I always avoid splicing if at all possible!

boostedAvant

06-27-2012, 12:06 PM

Thanks Tyler! That's interesting Calvin. I just spliced my shit lol.

walky_talky20

06-27-2012, 12:10 PM

Also, the add-a-fuse devices actually fuse the output wire. Putting a spade terminal on the end of a wire and plugging it into an empty fuse terminal is not safe as there are zero fuses in the circuit (I'm just going on a whim that Charles didn't use an in-line fuse). Should this wire that you added rub against some metal in the dash and create a short (or perhaps your ebay boost gauge shorts out), there is zero protection: there is no fuse that will blow. It will merely begin to melt down the fuse box/wire/dashboard. And we all know how much fun dashboard fires are. *Tons* of fun.

Fuse those circuits, kids.

nein-reis

06-27-2012, 12:11 PM

Add-A-Circuit is great until you start adding tons of random things... boost, wideband, radar detector, temp sensors, turbo timer, water meth, etc... then its better to start with a single splice and connect to a single splitter bord or connection panel.

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 12:12 PM

Damn, this thread is moving fast today! I can hardly keep up.

Calvin, the reason that there are two different coil pack adapters from IE is because one is for our 06A block and one is for the 058 block (and 2.7t as well IIRC) The valve covers are different so a different adapter had to be made to use the 2.0 TSI/FSI coils.

Ahhhh. I see. Don't know why I didn't see that. I'm batting a thousand today... [facepalm]

Edit: No boot needed if you purchase the adapters Calvin. That's why you get the adapters [:p] The reason you put the boot on is to create a form of seal on the coil pack. Since the TSI/FSI coils are longer, having the boot on the bottom helps keep it into place. If you order the adapters the seal that is already on the TSI/FSI coil will seal against the adapter. Look at my project thread, I took a few pictures of them on there, that might help clear some of these questions up.

As I suspected. Thank you for confirming this, Jace. [up]

a4darkness

06-27-2012, 12:15 PM

lol, I'm pretty cheap myself but I'm definitely a lot quieter about it than Waldo...QUOTE]
Nothing wrong with being economical and efficient at the same time man. I always research everything to death, not only for the fun of learning it but also b/c the 1st thought in my head is, 'okay now how do we make it better?' ;-)

[QUOTE=boostedAvant;7725412]Calvin, the reason that there are two different coil pack adapters from IE...
This!

I will admit I've been pricing out brake rotors and pads on eBay. So ashamed... [:)]
Don't be, eBay is becoming more regulated and trusted these days, in some cases better than Amazon. Also, lots of smaller vendors have stores on ebay (including forum sponsors) That said, shoot me a message (FB/email/PM) for options. I've got the brake thing down pretty cold now.

The man has spoken.
YES!

nein-reis

06-27-2012, 12:22 PM

I'm going to spend more time in this thread, for better or worse.

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 12:23 PM

Calvin, I was planning on adding one of those but I got lazy/impatient. I wanted my boost gauge NOW daddy!

Walky you make a good point. Not being fused is asking for trouble. I'll likely pop in an Add-a-Fuse sooner rather than later. Aside from the un-fused part, its not a very firm connection so I am a tad worried one of the 12V taps could short out and cause a dashboard fire. Those are bad mmmkay?

I also ran my wires into the cabin alongside the harness entering from underneath the ECU on the Brake booster side. You actually can't see it from the engine bay, but I stuck my clothes hanger through from the cabin and it popped out underneath the ECU. I was, again, being impatient because I didn't have the tools to remove the ECU cover or even to remove the wipers.

evo_ski

06-27-2012, 12:26 PM

I will go for stuff on ebay from time to time, shit my winter wheels and tires were ebay specials.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/7450613048_6e0a0d4e68_h.jpg

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 12:30 PM

Full disclosure, not only have I been looking on eBay but I actually bought some rear Centric C-Tek rotors and Posi-Quiet pads for my brother's Saab last week. I've got them sitting in my office now.

I also bought some rear B7 calipers/Carriers for my b6 off of ebay. For certain things, used parts, etc, its a great resource. Of course the calipers needed a full rebuild, so I'm going the extra mile and am going to paint them as well. One of these days that is...

Don't worry, pictures will abound.

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 12:31 PM

Fuse those circuits, kids.

http://againstlineofdance.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/themoreyouknow.jpg

Add-A-Circuit is great until you start adding tons of random things... boost, wideband, radar detector, temp sensors, turbo timer, water meth, etc... then its better to start with a single splice and connect to a single splitter bord or connection panel.

You could just split them off an Add-A-Circuit fuse. Just upgrade the fuse to handle the extra load. The Add-A-Circuit wire is pretty thick (even on the mini), so there shouldn't be any wire overload issues.

evo_ski

06-27-2012, 12:44 PM

http://againstlineofdance.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/themoreyouknow.jpg.

This should be Thomas' icon.

boostedAvant

06-27-2012, 01:07 PM

Hahahaha

Sent from the Dagobah System using tapatalk 2

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 02:41 PM

Done. [:D]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IrAUjLTLsdY/T-t9nEf-ibI/AAAAAAAAA7E/DFWM_TNv2wU/s800/A4Darkness%2520TMYK%2520Small.PNG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E8jzmroHmsU/T-t9nFLTRTI/AAAAAAAAA7E/h9Icnc_-5KU/s800/A4Darkness%2520TMYK.PNG

evo_ski

06-27-2012, 02:53 PM

HAHAHAHA, I love it!

boostedAvant

06-27-2012, 03:01 PM

Omg! Noti do itt!!! Hahahaha

daihashi

06-27-2012, 04:11 PM

Nothing wrong with being economical and efficient at the same time man. I always research everything to death, not only for the fun of learning it but also b/c the 1st thought in my head is, 'okay now how do we make it better?' ;-)

Yep, that last part is where I obsess the most. And 'better' is subjective to the individual so there's not a "real" right or wrong. So I try to not go there much on the forums, or if I do I just vaguely 'hint' that there are alternative methods. More than 1 way to skin a cat, you know? And you can do it in a non ghetto rigged fashion. :)

a4darkness

06-27-2012, 04:21 PM

Troof.

Charles.waite

06-27-2012, 04:36 PM

Priceless Thomas. Though the rainbow is vaguely...not straight.

daihashi

06-27-2012, 04:37 PM

Priceless Thomas. Though the rainbow is vaguely...not straight.

You with the making me lol liquids out my nose. STOP!

boostedAvant

06-27-2012, 05:08 PM

Troof.

Hahahah yes!!!

Sent from the Dagobah System using tapatalk 2

igo4uga0586

06-27-2012, 05:29 PM

I am running without one right now... no negatives to speak of ... yet. Will keep everyone posted if that changes!

I'm gonna disagree on this one, retain the the 3-way check valve Waldo. This area is really sensitive to minor changes in pressure and whatnot. Exactly like yourself, I found it really annoying to need a special check valve here but as you can see it's tied into a number of lines in the area and if you start slightly pinching lines back there it messes with everything. Saying $15 isn't worth the hassle man.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/583c03b7.jpg

(Chris, this shot has been so helpful... thanks again.)

Waldo, if you don't want to spring for the OEM or less expensive version on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Vacuum-07C133529A-Passat-Quattro/dp/B002T2WO92), I've found you a $12 eBay special. Gitit son!

07C 133 529 A
http://compare.ebay.com/like/270869678372?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y

CrazyCal

06-27-2012, 09:04 PM

Nice avatar, Noti. [:D]

waldo1324

06-28-2012, 09:11 AM

I'm gonna disagree on this one, retain the the 3-way check valve Waldo. This area is really sensitive to minor changes in pressure and whatnot. Exactly like yourself, I found it really annoying to need a special check valve here but as you can see it's tied into a number of lines in the area and if you start slightly pinching lines back there it messes with everything. Saying $15 isn't worth the hassle man.

(Chris, this shot has been so helpful... thanks again.)

Waldo, if you don't want to spring for the OEM or less expensive version on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Vacuum-07C133529A-Passat-Quattro/dp/B002T2WO92), I've found you a $12 eBay special. Gitit son!

07C 133 529 A
http://compare.ebay.com/like/270869678372?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y
thaaaanks!!

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd513/neonsword13/Rage%20Faces%20And%20Other%20Meme%20Faces/tumblr_liuzbqmmPk1qbvc38o1_250.png

ordered

EDITTTTT: DO NOT GET THAT...... LEAKS

waldo1324

06-28-2012, 09:16 AM

Oh man you just out-eBayed Waldo. Say it isn't so!

oh dear lord......
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/BFTrick/terrorface.jpg

a4darkness

10-01-2012, 10:28 PM

And all of the sudden...

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/IMG_0590.jpg

I need fuel and a detail like now!

Took the summer off but from posting ITT but am starting up again. Did a bunch of research + work over the summer and have a few more projects in the works... specifically the Crankcase Breather System Revamp. But for now, I'll post what I've accomplished thus far and go from there.

a4darkness

10-02-2012, 12:15 AM

Injector O-Ring Replacement + Cleanup

OEM Part number for o-rings (aka seals) that fit stock 282cc injectors:
(x8- two per injector) Injector O-Ring Seal: 035906149A (7.52mm x 3.53mm)
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/OEM_282CC_Injector_18t_06B133551M.jpg

(x4 - one per injector) Injector Clips: 035906037 (not required but listing just in case)

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-48.jpg

The 1.8t in most any variant suffers from what's commonly known as blow-by or weeping at the injectors (#'s 8 and 6). Often times, this is mistaken for a leak from the injector seat #5. But more often than not, it's caused by degradation of the rubber injector seals.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-49.jpg

Looks like this... yummy.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-1.jpg

I've seen worse, but this is pretty bad.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file.jpg

I picked up the Victor Reinz Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit GS33276 from Amazon (4 per pack, ordered 2)
http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-Injector-O-Ring-GS33276/dp/B008LD2ALA
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-10.jpg

AutohausAZ always has great prices as well.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=4vux4zq5zqd1jq55movwke55&partnumber=035%20906%20149%20A

Info on non-OEM replacement O-Rings can be found here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/463489-Bosch-TT225-Injector-O-Ring-Seals?p=7138853&viewfull=1#post7138853), but I'd stick with OEM/direct replacements. I found the sizing on many o-rings intended for other vehicles is listed as a direct fit (like in the O'Riley Auto Parts database) but in actuality they're off by miniscule amounts that can cause leaks. Not acceptable.

This DIY has been written up more than a few times, I'll just be adding some more info and pics. Specifics can be found below but this is a very easy task to accomplish. Just take your time.
Audiworld Tech: Replacing Fuel Injector Gaskets (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng94.shtml)
RogueEuro Writeup for Injector Swap - Jace's pics are far better than mine.
(http://www.rogueeuro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=24#p1010)a4mods writeup (http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/injectors.html&category=1)

As this job involves some heavy chemicals and potential for a bit of spilled fuel, I fabbed this up. Worked great.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-3.jpg

Before starting, wait till the car engine has cooled off. Injectors should still be in their respective locations.

Picked up some foaming orange degreaser and gave the area around the injectors a good coating. After 10min or so, I sprayed the area down with water via a small spray bottle and did some cleaning.
Repeated this process 4 or five times, incorporated a toothbrush which really helped. Took about an hour... the gunk was thick.
Try to get as much of the oil muck removed before removing anything. Yeah, it's a PITA but better than running the risk of getting something inside the manifold.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-4.jpg

Per Jace's advice, I then pulled the fuel pump fuse and ran the car till it died. Yes this is safe, don't worry. It minimizes the amount of fuel you'll have to drain from the rail which is a very good thing.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-6.jpg

From here I pulled the injector harness from the injectors and started cleaning again.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-15.jpg

There's plenty of different cleaners available but the foaming stuff is the best as it'll eventually break down the blow-by so that it can be wiped free from the manifold.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-19.jpg

Before removing anything, try to get things as clean as possible.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-22.jpg

Put a good sized towel down to the left of the injectors. Take the two 5mm allen head bolts out of the rail, and pull it up slightly.... all the pressure will bleed out.
My injectors + rail came right out. Depending on the condition of your seats + seals, the force needed to pull it free may vary.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-11.jpg

At this point, stop and lay the rail + injectors to the side. Stuff towels in the injector seats and clean some more. Again, you don't want anything falling in there.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-26.jpg

The fuel rail is not going to be unhooked so you've gotta get the remainder of the fuel out. So, get some rags and place them under the end of the rail towards the back of the engine bay.
Slowly unscrew the black cap off the end of the fuel rail - aka the Schrader Valve (shot prior to cleaning).
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMAG0561.jpg

Cap now removed, push in on the the Schrader valve using a small flat head - with a rag around it - as fuel will come out. Unsure exactly how much I had as it's clear but it's more than a few drops... more like 1/4 cup or so.
I'm sure it goes w/out saying but gloves and goggles are a good idea at this point. And no action pics of fuel drainage... just consider that tipping the fuel rail upwards will drain the fuel out. Pretty easy stuff.
After the excess fuel is drained, get the soaked towel out of the engine bay and put the black cap back on.

Now to remove those injector clips. Yeah, you can probably pull em off by hand but one or two will probably wind up on the other side of your garage.
Little bastards like to take flight. Get some pliers... curved needle nose worked for me.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-34.jpg

Now that all the injectors are removed from the rail, it's time to swap the o-rings. It's nothing overly complex, just roll em off the injectors.
Be careful not to break the brown plastic piece at the base of each injector/ Doing so means you get to buy a new one... yay!
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-35.jpg

At this point you're probably thinking... did I really need to do this? My injector o-rings look perfectly fine... oh wait a minute... WTF!!
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-38.jpg

One thing to take a look at while the rail is out + prior to reinstall... the injector seats. Also note the part number. If you have the rev-A's like I did, there's a high probability they're not in the best shape.
Mine had scoring at the base which wasn't a huge issue w/the exception of #4 which caused the injector to not sit quite as firmly as the rest. Unsure if this was enough to cause a leak but certainly worth examining.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-43.jpg

Afterward install is the reverse, nothing to it. Injectors back in the rail + clips, and a nice coating of chap stick on the new o-rings for install.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-39.jpg

All clean now and good to go. If for some reason you are one of those ppl who have a leaking injector seat as well (turns out I had one) it'll be very easy to tell as your seals have been eliminated from the equation.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/engine/file-46.jpg

To re-pressurize the fuel rail, key the vehicle to Run (without cranking) and wait. Key back down to OFF and repeat. You'll hear the fuel pump each time. Do this several times and that's it.

[-Thread Navigation-] (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5651766&viewfull=1#post5651766)

audinaut

10-02-2012, 12:39 AM

Very nice addition and write up Noti. Amazing to see you're wrenching skills come so far in such a short time. But where did you pickup this so called chap stick trick on the o-rings from? Is that factory certified method of installation? Not something I've ever seen referenced in the Bentley [:d]

walky_talky20

10-02-2012, 06:22 AM

I don't know about you guys, but I use Chap Stick on every aspect of my car. Squeaky Door Hinge? Chap Stick. Glove box open slowly? Chap Stick. Rusty fasteners? No problem, put some Chap Stick on there. I also find a healthy dose will keep those pesky vacuum lines from cracking. It even works to keep the HVAC buttons from peeling. Don't be high and dry - I always keep a stick in the glove box just in case!

waldo1324

10-02-2012, 07:34 AM

BTW- dont buy that 3 way :

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=c2d4aae35d191bb9661ca70b718833a3&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.audizine.com%2Fforum%2Fshowth read.php%2F385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness%2Fpage15&v=1&libid=1349186788567&out=http%3A%2F%2Fcompare.ebay.com%2Flike%2F2708696 78372%3Fvar%3Dlv%3Cyp%3DAllFixedPriceItemTypes%26v ar%3Dsbar%26_lwgsi%3Dy%26cbt%3Dy&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.audizine.com%2Fforum%2Fforumd isplay.php%2F4-B6-A4&title=Engine%20Strengthening%20by%20a4darkness%20-%20Page%2015&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fcompare.ebay.com%2Flike%2F2708696 78372%3Fvar%3Dlv%26lt%3Byp%3DAllFixedPriceItemType s%26amp%3Bvar%3Dsbar%26amp%3B_lwgsi%3Dy%26amp%3Bcb t%3Dy&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13491883873024

leaks- probably castoffs

Casius

10-02-2012, 08:13 AM

In the process of doing a lot of work on my car I have gone through this thread and replaced a whole whack of stuff, all my little one way valves, the block breather setup etc. After doing all that the motor is great and this thread was awesome. The only thing I can say is that I used an after market billet PCV valve and that was a huge mistake. I ended up frankensteining my old OE PCV valve back in cause I was getting loss of idle control. The lesson is that no matter how tempting all those little aftermarket bitties are, if you want this car to run solid and properly stick with as much OE stuff as possible for the complicated stuff.

Thanks for this thread man, it really makes a difference

daihashi

10-02-2012, 08:42 AM

walky_talky20

10-02-2012, 09:16 AM

I use a quick shot of wd40 on hinges but never thought about chapstick on vacuum lines... great tip, thanks!!

Sent while taking an "on the clock dump" using Tapatalk 2.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/not-sure-if-srs.png

SlickFix

10-02-2012, 09:25 AM

a4darkness

10-02-2012, 10:56 AM

Very nice addition and write up Noti. Amazing to see you're wrenching skills come so far in such a short time.
Props man, that was a really awesome compliment to start my day.

BTW- dont buy that 3 way... leaks- probably castoffs
Solid feedback, thx Waldo. Parts list and links have been purged and updated accordingly.

The only thing I can say is that I used an after market billet PCV valve and that was a huge mistake... if you want this car to run solid and properly stick with as much OE stuff as possible for the complicated stuff.
Appreciate the info Casius. I've had the 034 check sitting on my desk for a long time now and have long debated weather or not to use it. I was still on the fence for the CCB Revamp but not anymore. That and I've got an idea to safeguard the OEM check a bit better as well.

chap stick

Chap Stick

chapstick

Chap Stick

You all can direct said thanks to Jace/Boosted Avant - who is not only full of awesome tips but also is quite handy with the glass. (https://secure.flickr.com/photos/25279709@N03/)

vjborelli

10-05-2012, 09:37 AM

Noticed my passenger side engine mount was leaking, and decided to order those Febi RS4 mounts.

They just came in today. I'll be doing my stabilizer bushings and engine mounts this weekend.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/383525_10151250267105196_512829301_n.jpg

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

a4darkness

10-05-2012, 09:59 AM

vjborelli

10-05-2012, 10:03 AM

Sounds good man. Before you really dig into the removal, you might want to remove the boots and see if the mount is not only leaking but separating. If so, you might want to have a cutting tool of some kind handy.
In that instance, cutting the lower bolt off the mount make the removal a hellova lot easier.

Also... stabilizer bushings?

Yeah, I'll post the part numbers when I get home. I ordered the 2 front stabilizer bushings and brackets, and the 4 one time use nuts for it.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

Charles.waite

10-05-2012, 10:44 AM

^^ I assume you mean the sway bar?

vjborelli

10-05-2012, 11:29 AM

^^ I assume you mean the sway bar?

Yeah, sorry. Front sway bar bushings

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

vjborelli

10-10-2012, 11:48 AM

So, can you tell which mount is the one that failed? Lol
Thankfully it didn't extend on me, and swapping both of them was only about a 30 minute process.

I'll be doing all the exhaust manifold gaskets this weekend down at Hanscom air force base this Saturday. Just ordered the manifold, Turbo, and cat gaskets. Any tips ahead of time. The dealer told me all the nuts/studs are reusable too, do I trust the parts guy though?

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/522805_10151257598150196_124903738_n.jpg

Sent from my Banana Phone.

a4darkness

10-10-2012, 11:59 AM

So, can you tell which mount is the one that failed? Lol
Thankfully it didn't extend on me, and swapping both of them was only about a 30 minute process.

Yup, sure can. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420605-Motor-Mounts-DIY-gt-Info-Pics-and-Disgruntled-Rubber) Glad to hear it went smoothly.

I'll be doing all the exhaust manifold gaskets this weekend down at Hanscom air force base this Saturday. Just ordered the manifold, Turbo, and cat gaskets. Any tips ahead of time. The dealer told me all the nuts/studs are reusable too, do I trust the parts guy though?

Yeah, they're reusable but opting for new hardware all around is inexpensive and if need be always provides the option of destroying a nut/bolt. If you opt not to use any of it, the dealer will take em back.

Sent from my Banana Phone.

My buddy had this as his ringer forever, always made me laugh. "ring ring ring ring bananna phoooooone!" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_e7yvpNF_s&feature=related)

a4darkness

02-24-2013, 03:41 AM

Been concentrating on other areas of the car and haven't done too much that would be appropriate for this thread... till now. After this thread popped up here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/526501-Diverter-Valve-Relocation) concerning DV relocation I opted to give this a go.

Having the pressure reference at the TB compensates for the pressure drop through the intercooler and raises the set point of the boost pressure control by the same amount as the pressure drop through the IC.

Benefits should therefore include quicker throttle response via colder air being dumped back into the turbo. I've always thought about how it seemed odd for the air coming from the DV to be sitting underneath one of the hottest areas in the engine bay but never gave it too much thought till now. I needed to reconfigure my hoses connecting the DV to my IC piping anyway so I figured, ehh why not give this a go.

About a year ago I swapped out my Samco DV for a Mitisubishi Evo DV which I modified...
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/6ed75d68.jpg

aka The Madmax Diverter Valve (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5174749-Let-s-talk-Diverter-Valves). I did the seal + drill but skipped the crush. More on that later.

Point being, this DV already has a superb recovery rate resulting in some pretty epic throttle response not to mention the ability to hold more boost longer. So I wasn't expecting much here at all.

Diverter Valve Relocation

In case you missed it, there's a pretty extensive breakdown of the diverter valve in our engines here. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=6883091&viewfull=1#post6883091)

That said, the idea here was to relocate the DV from under the turbo / attached to the intercooler piping to the cold side of the engine close to the throttle body.
Here's a rough PhotoShop of the relocation + new extended piping from the DV back to the TIP.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/DiverterValveRelocated.jpg

I picked up:
Silicone T Pipe with 1.25" BOV Port - 2.5" Inlet/Outlet, black -> Note, the EVO DV has a larger 1.25" port than the standard DVs for the 1.8t which are 1" port
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?products_id=399&osCsid=827ac45c160dd5c5e3f91ef88cf63eff

1" Silicone High Pressure Nipple Block Off Caps
http://www.034motorsport.com/hardware-fittings-hoses-an-rubber-and-vac-hose-silicone-high-pressure-nipple-block-off-caps-p-22485.html

5 feet of 1"ID heater hose
90deg 1"ID plastic couplers
1.25" -> 1" reducers

and hose clamps [:D] Yes, there's a lot of em strapped to this DV. As for the excessive use of hose clamps, the Evo 9/10 DVs - especially when modded like this one - love to stretch clamps and leak boost. Additionally, the use of it requires a 1.25" -≥ 1” reducer. So there's ample opportunity for more leaks. A lot of TT guys were having tons of issues keeping their engines free of boost leaks when using these DVs so I just opted to double up with something I had handy, and works well. Today on FB Cassidy @ IE was like, ahhh how about some t-bolt clamps? If I didn't have such an incredibly difficult time sourcing them locally I certainly wouldn't have gone this route. Will order some up later on and clean this up.

Back to the relo.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/20130222_152921.jpg

I removed the existing hose coupler connecting the throttle body to the intercooler piping

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130217_155652.jpg

and fitted the new tee style hose from silicone intakes.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_161007.jpg

I realized that the throttle body inlet and metal FMIC hose pushed so close together that it was going to cover the opening to the DV.
So I sacrificed an extra reducer and introduced it into the DV track of the silicone hose, pushing the barbed end outward to ensure there was no possible way of it floating back into the pipe.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_164641.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_165245.jpg

This did solve the issue pertaining to blocking of the DV inlet but made things a bit tighter in this space. Had to monkey around with the hoses for a while to get everything to fit.
Gonna pick up some new, longer hump hoses to allow for some room behind the HID housing.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_170556.jpg

At this point, the angle was too extreme to allow for the 1"ID heater hose to run directly from the DV to the TIP so I had to use one of the 90deg couplers accordingly.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_173731.jpg

This allowed for the ability to make the turn across the front of the engine bay over towards the TIP.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_175812.jpg

This 90deg coupler will feed down towards the inlet on the TIP...

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_172158.jpg

and attach like so.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_172807.jpg

There you have it.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130223_093714.jpg

I figured results would be less than noticeable but was pretty surprised at how much more responsive the throttle was after doing this.
Additionally, around 4k there was a nice increase in torque as well. Pretty nominal but certainly noticeable.
I'd liken the increases to moving to the TFSI coil packs from the 2.0t. That's about on par with what I'm feeling.
Oh, and I can really hear the DV now... far more so than before. One of the little perks of this DV is that it's got a really unique sound.

Mine now sounds like this too. Another added bonus, pretty cool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eegS0EObSIE&list=PL1519D5C5605A4388&index=37

I'm certainly not going to advocate that everyone start rerouting their diverter valves. But for ~$50 the benefits are indeed tangible and noticeable. I'm pretty stoked on this one guys, maybe some of you will find similar results.

[-Thread Navigation-] (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5651766&viewfull=1#post5651766)

boy412

02-24-2013, 02:31 PM

Nice writeup as always Thomas. [up]

Maybe 034 will engineer a kit for us so everything will look awesome and siliconey. All of those hose clamps would drive me nuts every time I opened the engine bay. [:p]

a4darkness

02-24-2013, 04:03 PM

lol, thanks E.

034 could easily bang one out but this allows for a bit more customization. I went with this particular location b/c it was readily accessible and I needed to begin swapping my intercooler hoses. Another turnkey location is further down the intercooler piping as seen here in dougfresh's engine.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/DV_relocation_dougyfresh.jpg

I've got plenty of room there as well but it would require sawing up my intercooler piping which wasn't too high on my to-do list. ;-) If you were going to place the DV there, it would likely be easier to run the return line to the TIP under the engine rather than on the top like I did.

AutoUnionLov3r

02-24-2013, 07:23 PM

[/QUOTE]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Evo%20DV/20130222_172807.jpg[/QUOTE]

Upper right corner. Do I spy a lug stud being used as a plug?

a4darkness

02-24-2013, 09:13 PM

Upper right corner. Do I spy a lug stud being used as a plug?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiqkclCJsZs

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/ER%20TIP%20FMIC%20and%20misc/0c115808-9273-4d27-a061-42bcb914422d.jpg

boostedAvant

02-25-2013, 12:42 AM

LOL^

victimdumper

02-25-2013, 07:01 AM

very nice write up [up], will probably be trying this soon.

dodzy

05-28-2013, 01:26 AM

Difference is a 3-Way Check Valve vs a 2-Way. In this instance, fixing the issues around my Suction Pump, the part number is 07C 133 529 A... a three way valve so the MTC Valve will not work.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/086d3821.jpg

And now that I've seen the valve, just realized I have an angle that shows it. Well, sorta. Enough to get a general idea. The 3rd opening attaches to a small hose that runs to another check valve behind the intake manifold.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/cbeb31bf-1.jpg

@ A4darkness. I've been looking at this thread for the last few days and am just amazed at the detail of posting in relation to fault finding & mods possible. I've a 02 A4 1.8T quattro that has developed a problem particularly surrounding a high idle after engine warm up. I've disconnected all the regular check valves and they all function as they should ( I believe - air blows one way in the direction of the arrow ) with the exception of 1. The one linked in your post #16 way back !

The air flows one way but also in the opposite direction, albeit not as freely. Do you think that this would cause the idle issue ?

Sorry for barging in but I figure that since you have an almost intimate knowledge with the set-up, you will know for sure :-)

Thanks

old guy

05-28-2013, 02:35 AM

If the check valve flows air in both directions it is defective and needs to be replaced. But with that being said that check valve probably isn't what's causing your higher than normal idle. At idle the intake manifold is under vacuum and the check valve should be able to flow toward the manifold. It's more likely you have a small leak somewhere else.

You can either run a pressure test on the system or methodically clamp off all the vacuum lines connected to the intake manifold one at a time until you find the one that is causing the high idle. Continue clamping further down the vacuum line until you find the problem.

dodzy

05-28-2013, 05:36 AM

Thanks for the reply OG. I've ordered the replacement 3-way check valve anyway, as you say, it is defective. €20 from the local stealership so not too bad considering the prices that they charge in this neck of the woods ( Dublin, Ireland ). I'll take your advice and go clamping the Vac lines later on. Also, if no luck, i'll throw a boost leak device together and go from there. Just one other question for you:

When accelerating, and just before upward gear change, there is a noticeable "whoosh" or "a pssshhhh" sound when I come off the gas. Not totally unrelated to the sound that a dump valve would make. This has been present for a while now and is consistent with the high idle and crappy consumption I've been getting. No CELs ever displayed. And the high idle only manifests itself once working temperature has been reached. From cold start, its fine ( probably 800-850rpm but would run at 12-1300 rpm when warm ) Would that "pssshhh" sound cause you to revise your diagnosis, or compound it ? Thanks again for your input[;)]

old guy

05-28-2013, 06:22 AM

dodzy

05-28-2013, 07:05 AM

Is the sound just before you let off the gas or just after? If just before then what you are describing sure sounds like a boost leak. Pay particular attention to the SJP (suction pump). If the three way valve is defective (the one you noted) it will allow excess boost pressure to enter the SJP. I suspect yours may be starting to come apart. Thank you sir, once again. That "sound" is apparent just as you come off the gas. I'll have a look back through the thread as I'm sure Thomas has posted the location of the SJP ( I'm guessing its at the back of the block, close to the 3-way check valve ? )As I said in the last post, its ordered, i'll have in on Thursday, and fit it then. Another indicator is that, once operational temp is reached, and the dipstick is removed, the idle reduces significantly.

old guy

05-28-2013, 05:02 PM

Another indicator is that, once operational temp is reached, and the dipstick is removed, the idle reduces significantly.

You definitely have a problem with your bloch breathers. If everything is working properly removing the dipstick at idle should not make a difference in the idle speed. It may decrease your in-Hg of vacuum slightly if at all but it should not make a significant difference in the idle speed. Try the clamping method I mentioned earlier in the thread and see if you can isolate the problem.

Good luck!

dodzy

05-29-2013, 02:51 AM

http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/dodzy2/library/
You definitely have a problem with your bloch breathers. If everything is working properly removing the dipstick at idle should not make a difference in the idle speed. It may decrease your in-Hg of vacuum slightly if at all but it should not make a significant difference in the idle speed. Try the clamping method I mentioned earlier in the thread and see if you can isolate the problem.

Good luck!

Right, good call Old Guy[hail]. Clamped this hose ( runs up to the PCV ) via tube from side of manifold to fixed metal tube then a tee to PCV and valve cover. When crimped, idle is perfect ( 800rpms approx ). Changed the PCV maybe 2yrs ago. Is this fault indicating a fault in the PCV, or elsewhere ? Is it OK to drive on crimped pipe until sorted ?

http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/dodzy2/library/
http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/dodzy2/library/

old guy

05-29-2013, 03:21 AM

dodzy

05-29-2013, 03:43 AM

That hose should connect to the PCV valve underneath the intake manifold. The PCV pulls air through the block from the breather connection just above the oil filter housing. There should be a "T" connection down there that ultimately connects to the PRV (pressure regulating valve) located at the back of the valve cover. That black puck shaped thing. From your description it sounds like you previously replaced your PRV. I believe you now need to replace your PCV valve. You can drive with the hose clamped off since the PRV will prevent the block from being pressurized. but I would recommend replacing it ASAP.

Thanks so much OG; really appreciate your invaluable input here. Yep, you are correct. I replace the puck ( PRV ). I'll hunt back and get the P/N for the PCV. That fecking whoosh is still there ( so I'll do a boot leak test once I've the PCV replaced ). Once again, thank you[;)]

EDIT: Just ordered OEM P/N 035-103-245A - PCV Valve - for the princely sum of €11 plus VAT. from main dealer. Not bad I suppose !

a4darkness

05-29-2013, 08:59 AM

lol@ barging in... that's what this thread is for man.

Thanks for picking up the slack Fletcher. ;-)

dodzy

05-30-2013, 01:17 AM

lol@ barging in... that's what this thread is for man.

Thanks for picking up the slack Fletcher. ;-)

Apologies for hijacking Thomas, I just thought that this was the best place for the advice considering the work and detail you have put into the related workings of the car. FWIW, its a great machine ! 2002 quattro bough 7 yrs ago with 55K. Now approaching 139K and still flying[drive]

Mutalator

06-13-2013, 08:30 AM

Question about the TFSI coils. I have a Motoza tune, I just bought the 7EIX. Worth it to switch to the -11?

a4darkness

06-17-2013, 12:01 AM

Yeah, more than a few fellas are running the TFSI coils and -11's. I'll be swapping some in once my -7's finally kick out.

Mosemy

06-17-2013, 12:33 AM

Awesome write up! Just did a bunch of this a few weeks ago. Still have more to go. Remember the more power you make the quicker these hoses, vacum lines and checks can go out on you. Learned the hard way myself. Thanks for a great write up on an often looked over subject.

lookaught

06-21-2013, 02:08 PM

Difference is a 3-Way Check Valve vs a 2-Way. In this instance, fixing the issues around my Suction Pump, the part number is 07C 133 529 A... a three way valve so the MTC Valve will not work.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/086d3821.jpg

And now that I've seen the valve, just realized I have an angle that shows it. Well, sorta. Enough to get a general idea. The 3rd opening attaches to a small hose that runs to another check valve behind the intake manifold.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/cbeb31bf-1.jpg

Awesome thread, it's immensely helpful.

Can you explain how one goes about using the US plastics 2-way valves to duplicate the operation of this expensive little three way valve? There is so little room between the elbow that comes off the manifold --> and the valve --> and the hose the other side of the valve connects to that I can't visualize how to use the T fitting in line.

Also, does anyone have a part number for that long hose under the intake manifold that connects the 249 valve and the other valve to the back of the motor? It looks like _I_I___. It has a plug in the end toward the front of the motor and connects to near a check valve that is fed by the three way check valve above.

Samulis

06-22-2013, 08:12 PM

Awesome thread, it's immensely helpful.

Can you explain how one goes about using the US plastics 2-way valves to duplicate the operation of this expensive little three way valve? There is so little room between the elbow that comes off the manifold --> and the valve --> and the hose the other side of the valve connects to that I can't visualize how to use the T fitting in line.

Also, does anyone have a part number for that long hose under the intake manifold that connects the 249 valve and the other valve to the back of the motor? It looks like _I_I___. It has a plug in the end toward the front of the motor and connects to near a check valve that is fed by the three way check valve above.

The hose you are looking for I believe is 058 133 784R. I just purchased one off eBay recently.

h82loze

06-23-2013, 12:48 AM

The hose you are looking for I believe is 058 133 784R. I just purchased one off eBay recently.

That part number has been superseded by 06B133784AP. GAP has it currently listed at $28.52.

lookaught

06-24-2013, 06:39 AM

Thanks guys, very helpful.

Can anyone chime in on how to duplicate the 3-way valve using a T and a US Plastics 2-way check valve?

h82loze

06-24-2013, 08:08 AM

Thanks guys, very helpful.

Can anyone chime in on how to duplicate the 3-way valve using a T and a US Plastics 2-way check valve?

I would assume you just take a short piece of silicone tubing and connect the T to the check valve. Then you have the 3 nipples for the hoses like the stock 3-way.

a4darkness

06-24-2013, 10:58 AM

Yes, exactly this. There is nothing special or particular about the 3-way check valve. Ironically, just fabbed one up last nite for my buddy's B5 S4.

lookaught

06-24-2013, 01:20 PM

Ok, thanks. It still seems like there isnt enough space to fit the t, but ill see how it goes once the parts arrive.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

a4darkness

06-24-2013, 01:24 PM

vjborelli

06-24-2013, 02:24 PM

Yeah, it's kinda tight but don't be nervous about having that tee section in the exact spot. You can get creative.

For example you could always run it in between the 90deg elbow and the intake manifold barb right here...

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/9c0ac72e.jpg

Ok, thanks. It still seems like there isnt enough space to fit the t, but ill see how it goes once the parts arrive.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

I'll post a picture of how I have everything setup over in the SJP location. I actually did the SJP delete though, it's the only modification to my vacuum system I've done. I just don't see the need for it at all.

Sent from my Beta Banana Phone

lookaught

07-09-2013, 08:15 AM

Since I could not find a pic of the three way valve setup, this is how I did it. It's definitely really tight, the elbow is angled upwards and the SJP is pulled and zip tied a bit farther inward than before, which put the other end of the hard plastic hose that plugs into the firewall at a bit of an angle, so I put a clamp on it.

Aside from the hacked together look, it's working fine.

On a side note, I couldn't get the US Plastics check valve to fit well on the airbox N80 valve, so that's still a normal OEM check valve. I don't see how to pull the hoses, which are kind of hard after years of use, together. The US Plastics valves are significantly smaller than OEM valves. For now, it's working.

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss221/lookaught/GTRS/20130709_110108_zpsb3526072.jpg
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss221/lookaught/GTRS/20130709_110059_zpsa8728d5d.jpg

Charles.waite

07-09-2013, 08:39 AM

I had to pull my n80 hoses together and unseat the n80 from the rubber mount some but it worked for me.

WB650

07-15-2013, 05:08 PM

Bought 10 of the 1/4" valves, finally went to replace my single valve today and this what I got. Super. Ordered a real size valve.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/v/1005592_680277778652531_2054050263_n.jpg?oh=53eb04 7cde33cb0cc05562e49b2173c6&oe=51E65C8C&__gda__=1374072556_9c5aab82a2fe307de3244c4a823f043 5

a4darkness

07-15-2013, 05:14 PM

WB650

07-15-2013, 05:44 PM

The hoses wouldn't budge. I'll go try again right now though

a4darkness

07-15-2013, 05:46 PM

Ok! Silicone spray on the ends of the check valve works well, had to use that on my buddy's S4 last nite. Worst case scenario... heat gun.

WB650

07-15-2013, 06:18 PM

Just tried again and was able to get each hose to the notch instead of having space just under each notch. Nothing like your pic where the hoses are right at the center. I ordered an OEM sized check valve which will be here in 2 days so I'll see how this holds up over the next couple of days

If I were to put either side of the valve so that the hose on either side touches the center then the other stem was completely exposed and wouldn't reach, no budging of the hoses would cover it

lookaught

07-15-2013, 06:23 PM

Don't let the smaller overall size of the new check valve be misleading, it's just fine. This is stated ITT.

Just loosen the clamps enough to slide the hoses over the barbed sections and you're good to go. [wrench]

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMAG0033.jpg

The elbow hose youre using in this pic is not oem, its longer and fits better. Is this just a random 90 degree hose from autozone?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

a4darkness

07-15-2013, 06:26 PM

Yeah, my entire engine is full of goodies from Autozone, Pep Boys and Kmart.

058 133 394 F, purchased from GAP back in Sept 2010.

The elbow hose youre using in this pic is not oem, its longer and fits better. Is this just a random 90 degree hose from autozone?

lookaught

07-15-2013, 06:35 PM

Oh, so it is oem? Its strange that it looks completely different. Definitely works well with the us plastics valves. Thanks for the pn.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

a4darkness

07-15-2013, 06:37 PM

I just looked it up in ETKA and pulled that number out. Looks like there's more than one? We should add it to post #1 with the rest of the part numbers. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness)

Oh, so it is oem? Its strange that it looks completely different. Definitely works well with the us plastics valves. Thanks for the pn.

WB650

07-15-2013, 06:40 PM

Oh yeah, your elbow is def longer! No wonder why mine is like that

lookaught

07-15-2013, 06:42 PM

I think that elbow is listed in post 1 already. But I know this one is not, amd probably should be. Its the F shaped hose under the intake manifold.

That part number has been superseded by 06B133784AP. GAP has it currently listed at $28.52.

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a4darkness

07-15-2013, 06:43 PM

Can you see the PN on it? There's more than a few of these hoses that have been revised over the years... a few of which were just changed but the numbers stayed the same. Makes for annoying little situations like this. [headbang]

Catballz

09-03-2013, 11:30 AM

Just wanted to say thanks for such an incredible thread! Been reading over this slowly, some here and some there and it's really, really impressive. Seriously. Also wanted to just say "What's up?" to a fellow Sonoma County-er as I live in Sebastopol and just recently purchased a 2004 Audi A4 Avant. Cheers!

a4darkness

09-03-2013, 11:40 AM

You're shitting me, that's awesome. We should meet up, I live just outside of town.

Catballz

09-03-2013, 05:12 PM

Same here, bit out in the country of Sebtown. Which means my "new" whip can't stay clean right now. Definitely down to meet up. Though just be prepared for lots of questions from an Audi noob.

milan2k13

09-04-2013, 01:11 PM

squeegy200

09-05-2013, 08:25 AM

I sprayed down my maf sensor with CRC maf cleaner.. Its been sitting about 15 minutes drying...but when I look inside the housing at the sensor I can see it's still pretty wet.. Almost looks like condensation wet..

Will that completely dry by its self or is it safe to put back in?

After i sprayed mine with CRC, I put it back in after a few minutes. It took me about 20 minutes to button everything back up. I started the car almost immediately. It did not appear to cause any issues and the car ran fine.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

milan2k13

09-05-2013, 08:43 AM

After i sprayed mine with CRC, I put it back in after a few minutes. It took me about 20 minutes to button everything back up. I started the car almost immediately. It did not appear to cause any issues and the car ran fine.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

I left it out for a couple hours because it was raining a lot (don't have a garage)

a4darkness

09-05-2013, 10:31 AM

Same here, bit out in the country of Sebtown. Which means my "new" whip can't stay clean right now. Definitely down to meet up. Though just be prepared for lots of questions from an Audi noob.

Yeah man, car cover FTW. It's a constant battle around here. Rotten Robbie touchless wash is my homie. It was easier to keep my black A4s clean while living down in LA than a DG car up here. So much dirt... not shocking though, it is the forest. No worries man, bring on the questions. That's why I started this thread in the 1st place. [:D] Shoot me a PM.

After i sprayed mine with CRC, I put it back in after a few minutes. It took me about 20 minutes to button everything back up. I started the car almost immediately. It did not appear to cause any issues and the car ran fine.

IIRC, did the same. It dries pretty quick.

I left it out for a couple hours because it was raining a lot (don't have a garage)

You should be fine. No worries man.

AudiRob

09-05-2013, 11:20 AM

let me know .. ill come down too

You're shitting me, that's awesome. We should meet up, I live just outside of town.

milan2k13

09-12-2013, 07:38 PM

How hard is it to replace this PCV http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-FWD-1.8T/Engine/Emissions/PCV/ES7940/

Does anyone have pics of its location?

vjborelli

09-13-2013, 02:16 PM

Any idea if you can use the R8 coils as an upgrade to the 2.0 coils?

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Charles.waite

09-13-2013, 02:25 PM

How hard is it to replace this PCV http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-FWD-1.8T/Engine/Emissions/PCV/ES7940/

Does anyone have pics of its location?

Its under the intake manifold.

The silicon 034 setup eliminates that valve and replaces it with a billet version of the old-style mushroom looking pcv valve.

milan2k13

09-13-2013, 02:34 PM

Its under the intake manifold.

The silicon 034 setup eliminates that valve and replaces it with a billet version of the old-style mushroom looking pcv valve.

Can I reach it with bare hands without removing IM?

Charles.waite

09-13-2013, 02:41 PM

Can I reach it with bare hands without removing IM?

No. You can remove the PCV assembly then get it from there, but its not possible to remove the PCV itself because of how its attached.

There is a way to get the PCV assembly out, but honestly, you'll want to kill yourself and your car halfway through. Just remove the IM and save yourself the hassle. Drain the coolant into a clean bucket and re-use it if its clean.

Charles.waite

09-14-2013, 12:05 AM

milan2k13

09-14-2013, 03:52 AM

Also Milan. I say that from experience. I macguyvered my pcv the first time it broke without taking the manifold off. It's do-able, but taking the manifold off was so much easier. Save me maybe 30 minutes and a shitload of headache and frustration. I would never attempt to mess with the PCV now with the IM On. Life is too short, haha.

Thanks for the heads up. I might as well go with the 034 set up then if I'm going to remove the IM instead of just changing one valve under there.

Do you have any other suggestions as what to change under there, any other common weak points?

strtdrms

09-14-2013, 05:09 AM

milan2k13

09-14-2013, 05:48 AM

If you are taking the IM off, be sure to get new IM and throttle body gaskets. Be very careful with the dipstick funnel. I broke mine a month ago when removing my IM. You might want to consider changing that too

I actually changed the top orange funnel piece not too long ago because the old one crumbled.

Catballz

10-01-2013, 05:57 PM

Darkness, PM'd ya few days back. Hope you got it, laters.

Flipflopmonkey

10-01-2013, 10:07 PM

No. You can remove the PCV assembly then get it from there, but its not possible to remove the PCV itself because of how its attached.

There is a way to get the PCV assembly out, but honestly, you'll want to kill yourself and your car halfway through. Just remove the IM and save yourself the hassle. Drain the coolant into a clean bucket and re-use it if its clean.

I replaced mine with the 034 silicon kit and all I did was swing the coolant res out of the way. The hard part was getting the new aluminum clip back in at the block and for that I used a 12-14" long piece of 1"x3" as an extension and just put all my wieght into it, popped right in.

a4udios

10-22-2013, 09:44 AM

Here is an example of a fabbed up check valve using the usplastics T 1/4 and checkvalve 1/4.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/23/e8ezybu3.jpg

a4udios

10-22-2013, 09:44 AM

I am also using a 3.5mm silicone hose.

tehbry

10-29-2013, 02:32 PM

I would apologize for bumping this, but it's a great thread, so get over it :)

I have a question about DV alignment... when looking at this picture, should my DV be situated in a similar manner? I bought a Forge Splitter valve, ran it as a partial BOV for awhile then decided to close it up as a full DV. When I had it as a BOV the 'horn' was facing the back of the car, the small port on top that goes to the manifold was facing the passenger side of the car, so the DV was basically sitting sideways. Should it in fact be sitting like it is in this picture:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/604091c6.jpg

Charles.waite

10-29-2013, 02:47 PM

customa4

10-29-2013, 03:30 PM

That direction is reversed. The vacuum nipple is normally horizontal. When it's reversed it's vertical.

This is the perfect explanation for the diverter valve orientation. It's such a simple explanation but is perfect for anyone to understand. Why hasn't anyone thought of this? [up]

tehbry

10-29-2013, 06:37 PM

That direction is reversed. The vacuum nipple is normally horizontal. When it's reversed it's vertical.

Please remind me what the purpose is of reversing the orientation of the DV

strtdrms

10-29-2013, 07:02 PM

It's in this thread
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/464477-Recommendations-Diverter-Valve?p=7150740&viewfull=1#post7150740

tehbry

10-29-2013, 07:32 PM

It's in this thread
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/464477-Recommendations-Diverter-Valve?p=7150740&viewfull=1#post7150740

I think I shall switch orientation and experiment...

MacFady

11-13-2013, 11:51 AM

When I first got my car I had a 2 inch hole in the tube running vertically from the back of the crank case into the PCV. I didn't know much about the car at the time and needed it done so I took it to a reputable shop locally. They didn't replace the PCV but all the tubing attached to it including the elbow into the oil filter housing. I went to replace my PCV this past weekend and I discovered I had been driving for over two years with no retaining clip on the elbow that runs into the filter housing.

For anyone attempting this for the first time that needs step by step instructions for everything, just search for DIY's for fuel rail and intake manifold removal, familiarize yourself with this thread, buy some coolant and a gasket, and don't bother trying to replace it without removing the intake manifold. I tried for a long time to get by without removing it, even just taking off the throttle body, SMIC hose, and moving the coolant reserviour and I couldn't get it. Props to those who say they have. Chances are pretty good that even if you can get to it you'll likely break something else taking it out or apart. My 2 cents.

mauromj

12-12-2013, 02:27 AM

Has anyone used the US Plastics check valves with success?

vjborelli

12-12-2013, 08:53 AM

Has anyone used the US Plastics check valves with success?

Yes, I've had them in for over a year with no problems

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

Charles.waite

12-12-2013, 09:00 AM

Has anyone used the US Plastics check valves with success?

I've had them for 2 years without a single failure. They still look brand new.

tchuck

12-12-2013, 10:11 AM

Yes, I've had them in for over a year with no problems

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

I've had them for 2 years without a single failure. They still look brand new.

~1.5yrs here - no issues.

gloverA4

12-12-2013, 10:12 AM

I've had mine in for a year and a half with no problems as well.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

mauromj

12-13-2013, 12:58 AM

Sounds like ill order some up then!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

senecak

12-30-2013, 02:27 PM

To quote A4darkness when installing motor mounts "engine bay is a minefield of plastic parts" is an understatement. Just installed the B5S4 mounts and broke an ever so griddle T beneath the intake manifold. Fortunately the parts store carried an assortment of them. Never the less that was 2 hours added to the install. I've replaced the CC breather parts before but apparently not these because I had a plethora of single use clamps to cut off.

In the end I had no idea how bad my mounts were until I started the car and it idled motionless, no shaking. The drive was even better.

One by one I'm chasing your process of "engine strengthening".

Jermunji

12-31-2013, 06:46 PM

this is old but I'm still subscribing for future work.

customa4

07-30-2014, 11:55 AM

Greatness bump! [drive] If you haven't read this thread yet, get your reading glasses on and start.

Why is this not a sticky again?

Charles.waite

07-30-2014, 10:55 PM

Greatness bump! [drive] If you haven't read this thread yet, get your reading glasses on and start.

Why is this not a sticky again?

No idea. But it should be stickied for sure.

aran

07-31-2014, 02:11 PM

Yep, pretty much the greatest thread ever, thanks to all that contributed. I have a 2005 Passat 4mo 1.8 mt so I poke around here as well(and passatworld), and this thread is like the bible to me.

jonan

10-12-2015, 01:23 PM

Ten will cover your whole engine. Just be sure to remember which direction the valves face when you install them. Screwed one of those up, code a nifty little evap code out of it.

The brass T valve I ordered seemed a bit small for that opening underneath the manifold (hence why I didn't mention it above). Thought I spoke to that somewhere in the first few posts. If not, that's my bad and I'll amend it. (EDIT: I didn't, now it's been done.) The hose under the manifold has a larger inner diameter. It should work, but you just have to be sure to screw the clamp down tight.

Reference on the T-Valve here:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5875659&viewfull=1#post5875659

EDIT #2: Going back thru my notes, the brass T was entirely too small. You might want to cancel that order. 1st post has been amended.

As for the vac line, 3.5mm ID is fine. So is 4mm. Silicone is pretty stretchy and if need be you can always heat up the end with a heat gun or hair dryer a little bit to get it going. But usually just a little spit on the end will do it. IIRC, there's only one nub besides the top of the diverter valve that has a relatively large barb on it like this check valve. So, you might have to work em a bit but silicone is pretty pliable and easy to reinstall.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/IMAG0002.jpg

As for the difficulty part, some are worse than others. I did most everything piece by piece, section by section. Find a hose, eyeball it and be sure you can get the one time hose clamps off okay, cut a new piece of hose to fit and go from there. I did much of the cluster behind the manifold at once so that part makes it easier. But really when you're pulling one line off at a time and replacing it, kinda makes it a lot easier.

ahh, shit i just ordered this thing after reading pages 1-5....so it doesnt' work??? [headbang]

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=MIA-VCM-002&Category_Code=VCM

a4darkness

10-12-2015, 04:41 PM

Should have deleted that out of the thread a long time ago, just did so now.

I can't recall the exact inner diameter size of the hoses down there (they've long since been replaced with aftermarket) but here's the full tee from list US Plastic.
Be sure to go with a Natural Kynar Tee as they are appropriately rated for this application.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23727&catid=0&clickid=popcorn

customa4

10-12-2015, 04:49 PM

It's been a while for me as well but I believe I went with 4mm on the hose and that was good. It's so cheap that when I ordered it I grabbed a couple feet of 4 and 5 just to be safe.

a4darkness

10-12-2015, 04:55 PM

jonan

10-12-2015, 06:13 PM

is this the right size for the tee?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=27627&catid=551

jonan

11-19-2015, 08:11 AM

Yes, the 4mm ID vac line is the way to go. However we're looking for the ID of the hose attached to this tee (to the left of the top red square) underneath the intake manifold.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/3f9c14d8.jpg

i measured the ID of these hoses as 8mm and order up some 8mm silicone hose to replace them...on saturday i'm gonna have some fun going to town with all of the 12+ year old hoses in my car...taking my spiderco knife to those bitches...

a4darkness

11-19-2015, 09:57 AM

Nice work man. Just to confirm, that's 8mm ID correct? Will update the 1st post with hose info accordingly.

jonan

11-19-2015, 10:13 AM

Nice work man. Just to confirm, that's 8mm ID correct? Will update the 1st post with hose info accordingly.

positive, i ran into problems trying to get the 4mm hose over the barbed end that protrudes out of the firewall...in fact, the hose i ordered should be in my mailbox today so i'll snap side-by-side photos of the ID of the hoses when i get home from work today...

i measured the ID of that section of hoses 10 times to appease my OCD before i ordered the hoses and i'm an idiot because i ordered 15 ft worth of the 8mm hose...

jonan

11-19-2015, 06:20 PM

not the best photo due to the angle, but i just measured them and they are both 8mm

http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah218/jonan203/B6%20A4/hose_zpslj9eqwwi.jpg

here is what's left of two injector seats before i called it a night...the gunmetal powder coat on the manifold looks a lot nicer in person, bad lighting...and i suck at photography...

http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah218/jonan203/B6%20A4/manifold1_zps7k23f2zv.jpg

jonan

11-19-2015, 06:30 PM

btw, i've been trolling through this thread for the past three months in preparation for this job...everything was SOOOOOOOOOooo much clearer in terms of hose routing once i took the manifold off and poked my head around...

i'll take a video of the entire vacuum/pcv system this weekend because seeing it live from an infinite array of angles, in addition to staring thousands of detailed still photos for hours on end, is what finally made all of these photos i've been staring at click...

i had a epiphany, a stroke of genius where a light went off in my head and the bits and pieces of hoses that appear to be a tangled cacophonous universe of mangled decaying rubber and check valves that live in nine dimensions simultaneously suddenly became a singularity that i understood with e=mc^2 clarity...

a4darkness, you are my Einstein...

a4darkness

11-19-2015, 08:59 PM

jonan

11-21-2015, 07:14 PM

It's really something when the light goes on and you can finally make sense of it right? So much to learn about these stellar German machines.

Props for being so diligent about making a contribution, your pic and info have been added to the end of Post #2 with all the goodies. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5651771&viewfull=1#post5651771)

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/832611.gif

so i was up since 7am changing out all the vacuum lines and did the heater core hoses and the l shaped hose that connects the coolant flange to the hardpipe since i was already in there...didn't finish until 4:30pm...

took a test drive and all was great...until i got a CEL...

the shitty part is that the car runs awesome and idles fine...the only thing i can think of is that some of the wires on the fuel injector harness were exposed from the insulation cracking when i moved it out of the way to take the manifold off...

i have to go to autozone tomorrow morning to pull the code since i don't have a VAGCOM yet...FML, i hope it's just a leak on the hose i didn't tighten or something...[headbang]

anyone here have their car throw a CEL after installing the 034 breather kit?

jonan

11-22-2015, 05:43 AM

so i just pulled code p0441 which i believe is related to the n80 valve?

but, i was soooOOOO fucking tired, hungry and dehydrated yesterday that by 2pm i was rushing and not thinking clearly, found out this morning that i didn't tighten the clamps on the 3-way breather or any of the clamps for the hoses that connect to the n80 valve...

cleared the CEL hoping that it won't return...car runs fucking great though!!!

jonan

11-22-2015, 11:30 AM

FML, CEL came back after a one hour trip, came on as soon as a came to a stop light and was idling for a bit...didn't turn on while on the freeway at speed...same thing happened last night...

so i popped the hood, took a closer look at my n80 valve and put my ear next to it to see if it was clicking...i flicked it with my finger and noticed that it started splitting where the two parts of the valve are joined together...

i used a bit of force to pull it and it split in half!!! looks like i need to order a new n80 and install it next weekend...hopefully that will clear my p0441 code for good cause i don't want to mess around with the rest of the EVAP system...

Charles.waite

11-22-2015, 11:35 AM

It likely will. Those n80s are junk but at least they're somewhat cheap.

jonan

11-22-2015, 11:38 AM

is there a reason the b6 n80s are so much more expensive than the b7 ones? the b6 one is like $160 oem or $60 bosch and the b7 one is like $20???

old guy

11-22-2015, 11:41 AM

is there a reason the b6 n80s are so much more expensive than the b7 ones? the b6 one is like $160 oem or $60 bosch and the b7 one is like $20???

Search for posts by Waldo1324. I believe he successfully used a B7 N80 to replace a B6 N80.

Edit: Just found this. Clicky click (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/458915-N80-purge-valve-B7-discount!?p=7048779&viewfull=1#post7048779)®

jonan

11-22-2015, 12:55 PM

Search for posts by Waldo1324. I believe he successfully used a B7 N80 to replace a B6 N80.

Edit: Just found this. Clicky click (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/458915-N80-purge-valve-B7-discount!?p=7048779&viewfull=1#post7048779)®

can i assume this is oldguy approved??

old guy

11-22-2015, 01:03 PM

can i assume this is oldguy approved??

LOL!! Since I haven't personally tried it myself I dunno, but if CP likes it I can give it this:

https://averagenobodies.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/wpid-download_20140610_155737.jpeg?w=627

jonan

11-25-2015, 02:48 PM

so my p0441 tribulations continue...replaced the n80 valve, cleared out my codes and went for a drive, it came back...FML

scoured all of my hoses and checked the direction of my check valves, all seemed good...pulled my intake and realized that i never reconnected the SAI hose and it was just hanging there...

cleared my codes again and hopefully that takes care of the issue; however, i'm not sure that leaving the SAI hose disconnected will throw code p0441???

on a side note, it seems that the combi valve is another possible culprit to throwing p0441...does anyone know the ID of the hose that connects the combi valve to the hardpipe (circled in red)

http://www.a4mods.com/pics/coolantflange/thumbs/IMG_3175.JPG

i realized i didn't change that out while i was pimping out my vacuum lines with silicone...it is completely possible that i cracked that hose while trying to install the 034 hoses that connect to those hard pipes...i don't recall 034 having a solution for that hose circled above...

in any event, this was a great exercise as i know sooo much more about how all of those hoses are routed...if you haven't done this yet DO IT!!! boost comes on much stronger and car purrs like a kitten while idling...my PODI gauge holds strong around 18-19 PSI whereas before i did all my lines i was around 15-16 PSI...vacuum holds steady at 22 whereas before it fluctuated between 19-22...

jonan

11-26-2015, 09:22 AM

ugh, damn cell came back while i was driving around getting some last minute ingredients for thanksgiving...but i think i finally found the problem (third times a charm)...the nipple on the combivalve that connects the vacuum hose to the valve under the manifold came out when i tugged on the hose...the hose was obviously attached since it was clamped to the nipple, i'm surprised i didn't notice this when i changed the original vacuum line out this past weekend...

so i definitely need a new combivalve...however, will a bad combivavle will throw CEL p0441???

happy turkey day everyone!!!

old guy

11-26-2015, 09:51 AM

Will a bad combivavle will throw CEL p0441???

I really don't think so. The SAI and Evap systems are completely separate. When the ECM cycles the N80 it expects to see a change in the A/F ratio as measured by the front wideband O2 sensor. If after several test cycles it doesn't measure a difference it assumes something is preventing the hydrocarbon fumes from reaching the intake manifold. Thus an "Incorrect Flow" DTC.

jonan

11-26-2015, 10:46 AM

back to the drawing board then....i'm totally at a loss as to why it keeps pulling this code? perhaps i cracked the hard lines that connect all the hoses together??

old guy

11-26-2015, 10:59 AM

back to the drawing board then....i'm totally at a loss as to why it keeps pulling this code? perhaps i cracked the hard lines that connect all the hoses together??

Make sure all of your Evap check valves are flowing in the correct direction.

clr

11-28-2015, 09:36 AM

Amazing thread, thanks so much for all the great info! I'm going to tackle the PCV system/check valves in my b5.5 passat soon. I saw the recent update regarding the Fragola hose to replace hoses under the intake manifold, how many feet of that hose should I buy? Compiling a list of things to order and want to make sure I get enough. Thanks!

jonan

11-28-2015, 10:16 AM

chrisdeaner

08-12-2016, 08:22 AM

jonan

08-12-2016, 01:12 PM

So I have a separate thread where darkness is helping me with some issues but I'm stuck on replacing the "#1" Check Valve shown in this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/229635-In-Line-Check-Valves?highlight=in-line) thread. The US Plastics valve is too short to fit in the existing piping. I saw at the end of this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5859702&viewfull=1#post5859702) post a picture showing what I think is this valve with the small right angle tube replaced with something fabricated but can't seem to find info on what was used. Any ideas?

so that plastic piece on the snorkel that connects to the n80 valve broke and my n80 is not fixed to the snorkel anymore...that gave me a few mm of play, plus i very gently bent the metal hoses towards the #1 CV...

that being said, i did notice that the replacement "L" shaped hose to the right of the #1CV was a little longer that the one the originally came with my car so i didn't have to move things around much...i'll try to snap a photo tomorrow morning...

Charles.waite

08-12-2016, 01:26 PM

I just took the n80 out of its rubber sleeve and stretched it to fit. Never had any issues in a few years.

jonan

08-13-2016, 01:35 PM

So I have a separate thread where darkness is helping me with some issues but I'm stuck on replacing the "#1" Check Valve shown in this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/229635-In-Line-Check-Valves?highlight=in-line) thread. The US Plastics valve is too short to fit in the existing piping. I saw at the end of this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=5859702&viewfull=1#post5859702) post a picture showing what I think is this valve with the small right angle tube replaced with something fabricated but can't seem to find info on what was used. Any ideas?

here you go as promised...

http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah218/jonan203/B6%20A4/20160813_071706_zpsdx55v1qq.jpg

don't mind the loose clamp, stupid thing keeps coming undone because of the heat from the turbo...

chrisdeaner

08-16-2016, 02:55 PM

Thanks guys - will give this a shot this week. CELs came back so need to pull those as well and prob get the rest of the check valves done.

chrisdeaner

08-20-2016, 09:15 AM

Pulled the codes, somewhat the same so going to go ahead with more check valve swap and see where that gets me.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Saturday, 20 August 2016, 09:14:27.

Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,0F,11,15,16,17,18,36,37,45,46,55,56 ,57,65,67,69,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Coding: 0016751
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 749B5FD357A3
5 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16684 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0300 - 008 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16685 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0301 - 008 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17519 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Regulation: Bank 1: System too Lean
P1111 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1136 - 001 - Please Register/Activate
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

chrisdeaner

08-20-2016, 03:31 PM

OK so fab'd up a hose with 1/4" heater hose to connect the first check valve, similar to what jonan did. Prob could've gone with 5/8" as it was a tight fit but this isn't going anywhere.

http://i.imgur.com/kxSGwrY.jpg

Also replaced the #3 check valve in this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/229635-In-Line-Check-Valves?highlight=in-line) thread with a US plastics. I had seen in earlier posts in this thread that #s 2&4 in that thread I linked to could also be replaced with US plastics but now I'm not 100%. Are these their own part # to be replaced with OEM or can they be US plastics? Anyway, took it for a spin after all this and it seemed to be much more responsive and much quieter/smoother at idle. I don't have a way to get the boost psi (unless I can pull that with VCDS-lite?) so can't say for sure but seems to be better. We'll see if the CEL/oil pressure light comes back.

Lastly, while poking around after the 2 installs I noticed the end of this pipe that appears to be threaded but has nothing attached to it... Any ideas? This is directly to the top right of the valve cover cover (whatever the plastic thing is called with the Audi logo on hit held on by the three plastic "screws" of which I've lost 1) and right near the suction pump...

http://i.imgur.com/rYu5Gfu.jpg

old guy

08-20-2016, 03:33 PM

That is the schrader valve on the end of your fuel rail. Usually it has a black plastic cap on the end of the rail to protect the valve. Clicky click® (https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06B133335H/ES281199/)

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/41035_x800.jpg

chrisdeaner

08-20-2016, 04:09 PM

chrisdeaner

08-22-2016, 09:36 AM

Ugh, CEL and oil pressure warning back again:

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Coding: 0016751
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 749B5FD357A3
3 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17519 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1111 - 002 - Please Register/Activate
17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1136 - 001 - Please Register/Activate
Readiness: 0000 1001

Will keep digging.

jonan

08-22-2016, 09:57 AM

chrisdeaner

08-22-2016, 11:14 AM

are you getting the red oil can light of death??? i'd do an auto-rx flush...

Assuming this is the blinking one that fills the center display panel in the instrument cluster? If so then yes it is. It comes on after 15-20min of driving and only when off the gas/system is in vacuum (quickly goes away once back on the gas). Based on the above codes I feel like this is going back to the state my car was in for this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/617850-B6-A4-p1111-amp-p1136-after-replacing-PCV) thread where I was getting these codes after replacing the PRV pancake valve. Old Guy recommend replacing the PCV valve which I didn't get a chance to do before the car died on me on the freeway which lead to the suction pump getting replaced and no issues for quiet a while (6mos+) until the latest go around.

I'll have to look into the auto-rx flush. I have another thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/714000-North-Bay-Pressure-Test-for-B6-A4-Vacuum-System?p=11834783#post11834783) going that was specific to looking for someone to help with a pressure test and then got more into the details of what I was seeing. Someone in that thread mentioned the oil pump's pickup tube screen can get clogged which could be contributing to this but I haven't had a chance to check into cleaning/replacing that as well as seeing if that's in fact a worthwhile task to undertake.

jonan

08-22-2016, 02:42 PM

Assuming this is the blinking one that fills the center display panel in the instrument cluster? If so then yes it is. It comes on after 15-20min of driving and only when off the gas/system is in vacuum (quickly goes away once back on the gas). Based on the above codes I feel like this is going back to the state my car was in for this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/617850-B6-A4-p1111-amp-p1136-after-replacing-PCV) thread where I was getting these codes after replacing the PRV pancake valve. Old Guy recommend replacing the PCV valve which I didn't get a chance to do before the car died on me on the freeway which lead to the suction pump getting replaced and no issues for quiet a while (6mos+) until the latest go around.

I'll have to look into the auto-rx flush. I have another thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/714000-North-Bay-Pressure-Test-for-B6-A4-Vacuum-System?p=11834783#post11834783) going that was specific to looking for someone to help with a pressure test and then got more into the details of what I was seeing. Someone in that thread mentioned the oil pump's pickup tube screen can get clogged which could be contributing to this but I haven't had a chance to check into cleaning/replacing that as well as seeing if that's in fact a worthwhile task to undertake.

definitely give the auto-rx a shot...i put a bit of that stuff in every oil change and use it to flush out my power steering system every 40-50k miles...

imagineD

05-25-2017, 07:40 AM

I can't even begin to explain how dramatic the difference is now that the new mounts are installed.

Before, at idle the engine just kinda shook a bit. Never really noticed it of course and always thought this was pretty normal. But now, it's near dead silent (from inside) and motionless. It was eerily quiet. Apparently having a good set of MM really cuts down on not only vibrations but also related noise. I was shocked.

Hey man I am glad i found this post you made. Great explanation and details supported with images...

I had the same problem with the motor mounts on my VW Passat 1.8T Manual gearbox, where one was leaked so i decided to change both.
I immediately noticed the much better handling and driving but what annoys me is that after changing the 2 mounts i got a lot of vibrations when the car is idle.
You say you can't even hear the car working in the cabin. But for me it's opposite :( The mounts are exactly like yours Febi Blistein.
Any idea what it could be??

alimo20

05-25-2017, 08:00 AM

did you idle the car after installing before fully tightening down the bolts? also - did you undo your snub mount bolts and re-tighten them at the same time

a4darkness

06-22-2017, 01:26 PM

Yes and yes! [wrench]

did you idle the car after installing before fully tightening down the bolts? also - did you undo your snub mount bolts and re-tighten them at the same time

fallingreason

06-22-2017, 01:28 PM

I also noticed solid rubber mounts like the 034 density mounts hold the engine much more still than the fluid filled ones. Would think the same for rs4 mounts

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rocket1420

07-27-2017, 10:41 PM

Okay, so I've read a good bit of this thread over the last few days. Everything up until page 8 and then the last couple of pages. Not complete, I understand, but I'm getting antsy to get these parts ordered. I don't want to have to make two orders at the same place and waste shipping money.

I'm only confused about one thing. What is with the 8mm ID tubing? According to the first post, it seems as if the tubing under the manifold, "Region 3," as it were, is 8mm ID. But you are replacing that T with a 1/4" OD T? And why are we using the Fragola Series 8600-8700 Parker Push-Lok General Purpose Hose? Why not use the same hose as the 4mm ID except buy the 8mm version?

Cwee477

05-01-2018, 10:07 PM

64637
These two seem to be very dirty and oily for me. I also have misfire in all four cylinders. Could this be causing it.?

Sent from my PH-1 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

a4darkness

05-01-2018, 10:20 PM

Cwee from your description my first guess would be that the clamps holding those check valves in place are not holding pressure and or the check valves themselves have started leaking as well. While this could be related to your misfire issues, I wouldn't bank that it's the root cause without seeing the rest of your engine bay.

These two seem to be very dirty and oily for me. I also have misfire in all four cylinders. Could this be causing it.?

Cwee477

05-01-2018, 10:24 PM

64637
These two seem to be very dirty and oily for me. I also have misfire in all four cylinders. Could this be causing it.?

Cwee from your description my first guess would be that the clamps holding those check valves in place are not holding pressure and or the check valves themselves have started leaking as well. While this could be related to your misfire issues, I wouldn't bank that it's the root cause without seeing the rest of your engine bay.
It also wet around the injectors. What about this here.
I have replaced coils. Spark plugs. Also changed coil pack harness after noticing exposed wire.
Checked my sjp which was good.
I can only thing it is my injectors now or the pcv valve under the manifold.

Sent from my PH-1 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

customa4

02-09-2019, 07:31 PM

2019 bump [drive]

1.8tiptronic

07-10-2020, 12:22 AM

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/c1874e32.jpg

Do you happen to have the part numbers to the black t fitting and the hoses connected to it? Been having trouble finding the part numbers I’m looking to replace all these parts on my project car but can’t find part numbers and could hardly find info on it. My original text fitting looks to be a white plastic and the hoses look worn like they need replacement.

1.8tiptronic

07-10-2020, 12:28 AM

Great job with this write-up! Just thought I'd point out another weak spot I've discovered throughout the years. In the pic below, the plastic T-fitting just above the lower check valve has been known to crack/break. Since it's in an area that is obscured from plain view, and nearly impossible to visually diagnose unless it's completely broken in two, I would recommend replacing it when doing the valves and lines. It caused me a serious headache in the past, so I'm just trying to save others from encountering the same issue.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Vac%20Lines%20n%20Hoses%20Project/3f9c14d8.jpg

Do you happen to have part numbers for the hoses and the t fitting? I been replacing hoses and other stuff on my project car and I’m stuck trying to get part numbers for these hoses and the t fitting. I’ve read around on the forums and found very little info on these parts

a4darkness

07-11-2020, 01:20 AM

For some reason that plastic T fitting does not list in the ETKA catalog, otherwise I'd have included that part number. Fortunately there are a few options.

OEM metal version: Tpiece - Audi (044-127-563-A)
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem-parts/audi-tpiece-044127563a

Any 1/4" OD t-fitting will work as well, Autozone / O'Riley etc will def have one or even a universal type like this:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1117.JPG

Do you happen to have part numbers for the hoses and the t fitting? I been replacing hoses and other stuff on my project car and I’m stuck trying to get part numbers for these hoses and the t fitting. I’ve read around on the forums and found very little info on these parts

old guy

07-11-2020, 03:56 AM

Hi Thomas!

For some reason that picture looks suspiciously like my workbench ;-)

1.8tiptronic

07-11-2020, 08:26 AM

For some reason that plastic T fitting does not list in the ETKA catalog, otherwise I'd have included that part number. Fortunately there are a few options.

OEM metal version: Tpiece - Audi (044-127-563-A)
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem-parts/audi-tpiece-044127563a

Any 1/4" OD t-fitting will work as well, Autozone / O'Riley etc will def have one or even a universal type like this:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1117.JPG

Thank you soo much! Your a life saver I been looking for that metal t piece for awhile now so I’m going to get that. Only thing I’m looking for now is the hoses connected to it.

a4darkness

07-14-2020, 10:58 PM

Thank you soo much! Your a life saver I been looking for that metal t piece for awhile now so I’m going to get that. Only thing I’m looking for now is the hoses connected to it.

Sure thing man.

(Adding my reply in your thread here as well).

Those are difficult to pin down, they were part of an emissions / crankcase system that was revved a few times.

All the hoses in question are 5mm ID which means you can use any hose rated for oil / fuel, or even radiator hose if you're in a bind. Any auto parts store will have it.

This is what I purchased:

Fragola 8600/8700 Series Parker Push-Lok Hose - Sold by the Foot (hose only, no fittings)
Part # : FRAHSE8600
https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot

AN Size: -8 AN

Additionally, if you want to create your own sections consider some US Plastic elbows + couplers.

3/16" / 4.762 Tube ID Black Nylon Elbow
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=33537

3/16" Tube ID Natural Polypropylene Coupler
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...2064&catid=551

Puddin Tane

06-30-2023, 08:53 AM

All you old timers have no doubt seen this thread before but I haven't and I just had to bump it. As someone mainly interested in longevity / reliability versus performance / modding, this is the best AZ thread I've ever seen. Best to start at the beginning (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness).

old guy

06-30-2023, 09:31 AM

https://i.gifer.com/DEs3.gif

a4darkness

06-30-2023, 09:37 AM

Puddin Tane

06-30-2023, 01:24 PM

First you had the idea for this thread, then you kept re-editing to make it better for years on end. Dude...
https://media.tenor.com/NZrzJqH_-fkAAAAC/waynes-world-mike-myers.gif