Error Code P0299: Turbo/Super charger underboost

[clemsongt]

Error Code P0299: Turbo/Super charger underboost

So I got a check engine light last night after reaching about 5000 rpms (don't go that high too often) and took it to Autozone and got this code pulled. The description their computer put out for 'Volkswagen' is as follows:

Explanation:
Faulty wastegate bypass regulator valve
Probable cause:
1. Mechanical damage at turbo/super charger
2. Faulty charge Air pressure sensor


So all that I can glean from this is that it was caused by either the diverter valve or MAF sensor. Since I've heard that a torn DV doesn't usually throw a CEL, and that I didn't notice a loss in boost (don't have a gauge to exactly confirm it), that would leave the MAF. I don't have a K&N so no oil on the MAF from that.

He cleared the codes, and it didn't come right back, but on the drive home I didn't get too high in the RPM range, either.

Guy's have any thoughts?

PS: I guess the fuel injector cleaner he sold me after pulling code P2099 (fuel injector failure) won't help much...[headbang]...oh well guess it won't hurt to throw it in a tank.


EDIT: I figured if anyone found this while searching and wanted to know what was done in my case to resolve the issue it would make sense to add it. I took off my MAF sensor first as that is relatively easy to do and found no reason for it to have sent the code. Next I took off the DV and found a slight tear in it. The tear was not big enough to cause all boost to leak, but enough that at higher RPMs and higher boost, the computer would notice the leak. I ordered the new "D" revision diverter valve and put it on. After riding around and getting into higher RPM range the CEL has yet to return.

[shamrok]

DV is usually the culprit, but not always. When mine failed though, the loss of boost was definitely noticeable.

[Chr1sJohnson]

Hey did you ever resolve your issue? I am currently having the exact same problem. I took my car to GMP performance in Charlotte and their computer read CEL P0299.

My turbo doesn't seem to be boosting at all.

[SLYCAT]

When my Forge DV was loose I got that code, not sure if this helps but it seems like a diverter valve issue. IMO

[djwimbo]

Check the DV, otherwise it's possible to have a small boost leak.

Then again, my buddy just had his turbo replaced on his 2.0T FSI at 39K because it had a faulty wastegate.

Could be worth checking into.

[Chr1sJohnson]

Check the DV, otherwise it's possible to have a small boost leak.

Then again, my buddy just had his turbo replaced on his 2.0T FSI at 39K because it had a faulty wastegate.

Could be worth checking into.

Do you know what led to the faulty wastegate? I actually put 110 octane fuel in my car without knowing it contains lead. Perhaps the fuel lead to something more serious? My car runs perfect until I really get on it.. there is no boost what so ever.

[audifan22]

Check the DV, otherwise it's possible to have a small boost leak.

Then again, my buddy just had his turbo replaced on his 2.0T FSI at 39K because it had a faulty wastegate.

Could be worth checking into.

I had the same p0299 turbo underboost code and replaced the DV over a week ago with revision D, the p0299 code has come back, any clue as to what to look for next? That's the only code.

[clemsongt]

You might have a boost leak elsewhere. If you have any way of doing a pressure check, I'd recommend that. The heater hoses that carry the air to and from the intercoolers could be at fault. The MAF sensor could also be at fault for reading incorrectly. This might happen if the MAF sensor was dirty.

If you have access to a full VAG-com and can run boost logs, you should be able to tell if it's actually a leak or a bad sensor.

[Stea1th]

mine was a faulty wastegate

[viziers]

I'm still getting my p0299 code to.. I'll try to check out my MAF and the DV is the latest piston driven one.....



vizi

[kag341]

i just had this code with my 06 A4. ended up being a bad wastegate and the whole turbo assembly was replaced

[CystmX]

I got the code about a month ago got it cleared and it hasn't came back on. However I would like to add that I don't feel the car drives the same since then. I've gunned it a couple of times and it just feels sluggish.

[bergy12]

I've had this code for awhile now. Comes on when I go wot and usually clears after a few cycles. I've checked the dv and a few other things but still havnt found the problem.

[quickaudi07]

I had mine for about 1 year now, and i have nothing but problems with my car. Also talked with people with APR and REVO, told me that these engine FSI 2.0T are piece of carp. That’s why Audi/VW replaced the engines with TFSI much better engine!!! I hope to get a better job and get rid of that piece of crap car. I spend crap load of money and time on it. Good luck with the codes. I have engine light on mine as well. But i just put tape over the gauge cuz i can’t stand looking at it anymore!.

[RickySlickUHS]

I just had this come on yesterday and got the P0299 code. Checked the hoses and they looked fine (my car also went in a ditch [wrench]) so I figured it had to be the DV. Felt sluggish and went through 3/4 tank of premium in 240 miles! Luckily the stealership had the part on the shelf. Went and paid 125 (including tax) for the new revision D diverter valve. Since I'd already ripped off my belly pan it was easy to get to but those stupid nuts holding it on was a pain to get off. I read some conflicting information and used a Torx 30 to get them off, only to find that they were actually 5mm allen head bolts. I had to go buy a 2" 1/4" drive spacer to fit with my wrench and bit because the bit was too long. Anyways, got the old dv off and saw a small tear in the diaphragm, so that was the culprit. Thank God. Put the new one on and she runs like a sewing machine. And the tick-tick-tick I used to hear loud and clear has quieted down. Hopefully the gas mileage will improve but I haven't driven it much since. FWIW.

[vtruong88]

got the P0299 code after upgrading ECU to stage 2. My DV was fine when I check it - had newer revision. No noticeable boost pressure loss.

What is the best way to diagnose this CEL?

[redlegs13m]

does anyone know if a PCV failure will trigger the P0299 code I just had my DV replaced less then 6 months ago. I am getting noticeable suction under the oil cap while the engine is running, so from what I have read my PCV is toast. I also have the APR stage 2 flash but that was done over 2 years ago so I'm pretty sure that's not the culprit in my case.

[NODO-GT]

does anyone know if a PCV failure will trigger the P0299 code I just had my DV replaced less then 6 months ago. I am getting noticeable suction under the oil cap while the engine is running, so from what I have read my PCV is toast. I also have the APR stage 2 flash but that was done over 2 years ago so I'm pretty sure that's not the culprit in my case.

^This

I had P0299 Code for some time. I deleted this error and after some hard driving it came back.
I knew my PCV was bad, because of oil cap being sucked in...
Went with BSH PCV Fix and problem is gone.

[redlegs13m]

Went with BSH PCV Fix and problem is gone.
are you talking about the pcv plate or the catch can system.
i know there are a lot of options i'm just trying to figure out the most cost effective way to fix this that is not detrimental to my vehicle in any way.

[NODO-GT]

PCV Fix is a plate option for about 90$.

[audiloverCA]

PCV Fix is a plate option for about 90$.

Where did you purchase this? Have you seen a DIY?

[NODO-GT]

Bringing an old thread back!
Again Problem is back... all mods in my discription.

I have noticed that whole winter I didn't get this code, but it came back as temperatures rides again. I comes at WOT....

I have no clue what to do, cleaned MAF, Replaced DV, Installed PCV Fix...
the only thing left wastegate? or are there any other options?

[seal66]

good luck man. I have changed so much crap out trying to see why I still get the code. I still really only get the code in higher gears when I am doing like 4th and 5th gear pulls. I have yet to have it pop on me during logs pulls in 3rd, but it does pop up when I'm not logging, weird up lol. Damn car is grumpy man.

[Jhad]

I've recently joined this club... I think i need to adjust the wastegate on the k04 after all the reading I've done on the subject. I am deciding if I should mess with it, or go with this (http://www.ecstuning.com/Flyer-Forge_Motorsport/ES1899549/).

Has anyone adjusted their wastegate or have any experience with forges wastegate?

[seal66]

Look up jimrobbington. he did a wastegate adjustment had has a DIY in the tech forum n the B7 thread

[Jhad]

Found it. Thanks Seal.
Most of the other threads I've found have been with vw's

[clemsongt]

If individual components are not at fault for this code, it could just be that you have a boost leak in a hose somewhere - even a pinhole could be enough to trigger the code while not be noticeable in daily driving. The only way to diagnose that would be to do a pressure test. There are some DIYs out there on how to do this.

[NODO-GT]

I want to do boost leak test.
Which test is better, smoke machine test vs pressure test?

I have option of paying 30$ for smoke test or building pressure tester myself...

I guess this tests will not show any problems with wastegate right?


I also have low MAF readings, could that be a reason for boostleak?

[mec]

I want to do boost leak test.
Which test is better, smoke machine test vs pressure test?

I have option of paying 30$ for smoke test or building pressure tester myself...

I guess this tests will not show any problems with wastegate right?

It depends on what you want to do. Pressure test or smoke test will both get the job done. It won't have effect on yor wastegste because the pressure isn't enough to move it.

If you own an air compressor I would make the pressure testing tool. Jimeobbington has a nice write up on it. Otherwise if you want to save yourself some time just get smoke tested. Having your own tool is nice because you can diagnose quickly, you can work from home which is cheaper than the dealership/expensive shop, and after you sped the money on the supplies for the tool all you're boost leak tests will be free!

[mec]

I want to do boost leak test.
Which test is better, smoke machine test vs pressure test?

I have option of paying 30$ for smoke test or building pressure tester myself...

I guess this tests will not show any problems with wastegate right?


I also have low MAF readings, could that be a reason for boostleak?

Tapatalk double post

[redfred]

If you still have the original diaphragm style DV, I bet it's torn. Mine tore when downshifting to pass a schoolbus. The code cleared after replacing the DV with the new revised one.

Search, there are some good DIYs. BTW, I'd much rather have a bad DV than try to chase down a boost leak somewhere...

[frankvan]

just got this code (0299) today while driving on the highway.
Cleared it and it has yet to come back, however my boost gauge is only showing a peak of 5 and holding at about 3.5 (yesterday it peaked at 15 and held at 13 psi).
DV? Wastgate? Intake leak?

[frankvan]

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/diverter_tears.jpg (http://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=71368&title=diverter-tears&cat=500)

Yup, dead diverter valve. One big tear (red) and pinhole tears forming (blue) where the rubber diaphragm "pinches" when it's compressed. Definitely a poor design.

[ducati]

Im getting the code occasionally but when I reset aka removing a battery terminal then reinstalling it goes off for a few months..there is a slight lost in boost but not anything worrisome...Where in Canada can I pick a DV valve instead of a dealership...ordering from the US shipping is almost $25 plus duties.

[quickaudi07]

I got this bad ass code this morning while driving on the high way in 4th gear. I hear that my turbo makes funny sounds when it goes down to idle, sounds like a rattle between 3.5k RPMS to 1200 RPMS, only when its about to idle at 700-800 rpms.
And while driving, i was to lazy to switch the gears and downshifting, decided to add more gas, well I didn't notice any leg like some of you guys, but engine light came on.

So I"m thinking, 2 things could go wrong or 3 lol,

PCV Valve, Divert Valve which i have the new Revision, or Turbo is about to take a dump! I"m at 88K miles on my car..

I haven't had real problems with the car for the past 2 years. now winter is coming and yea... shit is about to start!

BTW where can i buy OEM turbo?

[4rings5stars]

I've had this issue ever since I went APR STG1. DV is brand new and I'm yet to perform a pressure test, so I can't rule out a boost leak. Other than that, I would be leaning toward the wastegate. I'll adjust it per the DIY when the time comes.

[quickaudi07]

ON mine it sounds like it could be a bad turbo, I drove it this morning, and was looking on ODB II with tablet to see if any leaks or any odd things happening, and i couldn't find anything,,, it hits 15-16 PSI at full boost no issues... F-ing cars lol!

I will be looking at DV Valve to see if anything is wrong there...

I got APR STG1 as well, :)

[drumnjuny]

brendan, haven't you been stage 1 for like ever haha??

i've had this code when i was stage 2, only started happening a year after i bought a tune for the car...

but i've had a boost gauge the whole time and it was really obvious that i was still hitting 21 psi

still happens today, a full engine build and BT later. no one knows what causes it

[quickaudi07]

I have cleared mine yesterday and didn't show up even after few hard pulls... oh well F it, it it comes up back up, Ill just blow that car up :)

[jcr223]

Most Likely a faulty waste gate If you have already replaced diverter valve, and concluded there is no boost leak. If you roll your passenger window down and let the engine decel you will hear a slight tapping noise, similar to a baseball card in the spoke of a bike as the RPM's wind down. I'm currently dealing with this as well....

I seek a new turbo .... :)

[4rings5stars]

Most Likely a faulty waste gate If you have already replaced diverter valve, and concluded there is no boost leak. If you roll your passenger window down and let the engine decel you will hear a slight tapping noise, similar to a baseball card in the spoke of a bike as the RPM's wind down. I'm currently dealing with this as well....

I seek a new turbo .... :)

You could always attempt the WG adjustment before you pony up for a new snail.

[quickaudi07]

I have cleard my engine light. So far no lights have come back and no codes came up. Took a short video of ho2 the car sounds after releasing accelerator padal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNJAWm-YV1M&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

[Italiano]

Ok so it seems this problem started with one of my coil packs going bad, car was misfiring under full boost. Ordered new F type (red) coil packs a few days ago and just as of yesterday the started to have a very rough ideal and when coming to a stop would ideal up to around 2,000- 2,200 when in neutral.

Ran over to AutoZone to pull the codes and came back with these:

P0299 - Turbo under boost
P0507 - Idel air control

Installed the new coil packs last night and of course found the cylinder #1 pack was toast. While I had the chance also installed new OEM Bosch plugs.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/bet124/coilpack.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/bet124/media/coilpack.jpg.html)

Got it put back together and the problem was exactly the same. When I turn the car off my buddy had his ear by the motor and heard a "hiss" coming from the PVC area like some excess pressure was being released. is that normal?

Any suggestion?

[sleepwalker_gsr]

Ive got an OEM turbo if your in the market :D PM me

[sleepwalker_gsr]

Most Likely a faulty waste gate If you have already replaced diverter valve, and concluded there is no boost leak. If you roll your passenger window down and let the engine decel you will hear a slight tapping noise, similar to a baseball card in the spoke of a bike as the RPM's wind down. I'm currently dealing with this as well....

I seek a new turbo .... :)

Ive got an OEM K03 turbo

[drumnjuny]

This is the most mysterious of all codes.... hahaha

had it with my stage 2 apr tune... then i did a full motor build and swapped to a gtx28 and still get it randomly from time to time!

[JDillon15]

Most Likely a faulty waste gate If you have already replaced diverter valve, and concluded there is no boost leak. If you roll your passenger window down and let the engine decel you will hear a slight tapping noise, similar to a baseball card in the spoke of a bike as the RPM's wind down. I'm currently dealing with this as well....

I seek a new turbo .... :)

Did this end up being the turbo? Did you try the wastegate fix? I have that same ticking noise!

[sdy101]

I have a B8 and similar symptoms. P0299 with CEL and ticking noise during deceleration with window down. Would really like to hear an update on this...

[JDillon15]

I have a B8 and similar symptoms. P0299 with CEL and ticking noise during deceleration with window down. Would really like to hear an update on this...

For your B8, I would recommend looking at this as a possible solution! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAkkIEMm3UQ

Good luck with this code!! I'm still trying to figure it out on my car.

[Hawesiebear]

had the code and replaced entire turbo...car is still sluggish and engine light comes on after 4000rpm and i can't ever get it past that....very frustrated...going to replace Mass Airflow sensor tomorrow and see what happens. anyone have some positive news?

[Copen-cisco]

had the code and replaced entire turbo...car is still sluggish and engine light comes on after 4000rpm and i can't ever get it past that....very frustrated...going to replace Mass Airflow sensor tomorrow and see what happens. anyone have some positive news?

You checked the diverter valve right?

[nycaudi]

had the code and replaced entire turbo...car is still sluggish and engine light comes on after 4000rpm and i can't ever get it past that....very frustrated...going to replace Mass Airflow sensor tomorrow and see what happens. anyone have some positive news?

replaced with new turbo?

or tested and confirmed working used turbo?

[nycaudi]

This is the most mysterious of all codes.... hahaha

had it with my stage 2 apr tune... then i did a full motor build and swapped to a gtx28 and still get it randomly from time to time!

so youre not running at full power then....

[drumnjuny]

so youre not running at full power then....

lol nah i just reduced my max VE so it stopped showing up. anyway now i have a different tune [up]

[jayM]

Had this code popping up soon after I upgraded the ecu to APR stg 1. I changed the DV valve and the code came back. Car was noticeably more sluggish and didn't seem to be boosting. My mechanic ruled out a boost leak. I was convinced it was the wastegate but wasn't about to tinker with it or replace the turbo.

Now, i drive naturally aspirated.

[esandes]

bad waste gate or a crack in the turbo if it's not a DV tear or leak in the intercooler and intake plumbing. also try to clean the air filter.

BTW the CEL light turns itself off after a few key cycles (40 or so). it doesn't mean the issue is solved.

[Midwest Playa]

Hello Everyone

After reading the thread and most of the comments I want to throw this at you. and If I can please get your feedback. I just purchased this Audi A4 B7 convertible and I replaced the cam follower and the Diverter with the upgraded version and also upgraded to the Go fast Bit valve. When we replaced the parts the original part was actually still good and in fact the car was running good and the engine check light never came on. After replacing the mentioned parts thats when the engine fault code came on. I had my mechanic clear it and it went away and then it came back on and then it went away on its own and it came back again yesterday I had my mechanic clear it and it came back on again today. The parts I purchased were brand new. Any feedback on what I need to look for? I truly don't think there's nothing wrong with the replacement parts. The car is running great no problem feels like the acceleration is there when needed. The light is just freaking annoying.
Can I get your feedback/

Thanks

[p310b]

Hello Everyone

After reading the thread and most of the comments I want to throw this at you. and If I can please get your feedback. I just purchased this Audi A4 B7 convertible and I replaced the cam follower and the Diverter with the upgraded version and also upgraded to the Go fast Bit valve. When we replaced the parts the original part was actually still good and in fact the car was running good and the engine check light never came on. After replacing the mentioned parts thats when the engine fault code came on. I had my mechanic clear it and it went away and then it came back on and then it went away on its own and it came back again yesterday I had my mechanic clear it and it came back on again today. The parts I purchased were brand new. Any feedback on what I need to look for? I truly don't think there's nothing wrong with the replacement parts. The car is running great no problem feels like the acceleration is there when needed. The light is just freaking annoying.
Can I get your feedback/

Thanks

Why do you need to buy a upgraded DV if you were buying GFB dv+? Its been known that those GFB dv+ gives you soft code.


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[Axis]

Why do you need to buy a upgraded DV if you were buying GFB dv+? Its been known that those GFB dv+ gives you soft code.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

I've been running one without any codes/problems for a while.

[Sanjman]

You need to first read the engine codes and report back to us

[jamerican1]

Another victim of p0299... Has anyone found a fix? Link to said wastegate adjustment thread?

[esandes]

i had the code come up. i changed the air filter and it was filthy. damn dealership. i changed it and the car ran like new. the sluggishness was gone and the code never came back.

[jamerican1]

i had the code come up. i changed the air filter and it was filthy. damn dealership. i changed it and the car ran like new. the sluggishness was gone and the code never came back.

I'll look into that tomorrow. Thanks man.

[djhemmen]

Another victim of p0299... Has anyone found a fix? Link to said wastegate adjustment thread?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420536-Wastegate-Adjustment

[Hightekflytech]

I got lucky, my p0299 code was due to thishttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/0012cf61db946aaecf5ba747bde46ba8.jpg

[jamerican1]

I got lucky, my p0299 code was due to thishttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/0012cf61db946aaecf5ba747bde46ba8.jpg

I am not so lucky... I already have the revision d piston style (which I removed for inspection to find in perfect working order). Not impressed.

[M0E7]

I went through this song and dance late last year, with an intermittent P0299 code.

Ended up finally disappearing somewhere between a new valve cover and performing a wastegate adjustment.

[jamerican1]

I went through this song and dance late last year, with an intermittent P0299 code.

Ended up finally disappearing somewhere between a new valve cover and performing a wastegate adjustment.

Already changed the valve cover, wastegate adjustment is on the agenda... prolly gonna break down and pay for diagnostics after that... FML[headbang]

[mbern1008]

I bought the car used and had the car scheduled to take my mechanic for a general inspection. Basically drove the car for about 300 miles since the purchase and I got this code on the way to the mechanic. It was definitely the valve.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160429/f0e259b81e9aae3648a81f83f4efc980.jpg


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[JDillon15]

I bought the car used and had the car scheduled to take my mechanic for a general inspection. Basically drove the car for about 300 miles since the purchase and I got this code on the way to the mechanic. It was definitely the valve.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160429/f0e259b81e9aae3648a81f83f4efc980.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

oh wow. don't usually see broken plastic ones.

[silentoption]

Hi everyone, this is my first message to all hope youre all well.
I ,unfortunately, had this "P0299" code nowadays and ı would like to inform you and get help from your experiences. here is the story;
I had an Audi A6 2.0 tfsi 2008 192.000 km
three weeks ago ı had my car for periodic service maintenance. Changed oil, all filters, sparks etc AND; the PCV gasket, the little green one I think. Then I took the car made 120 kms and the engine light appeared on dash. my mechanic plug the Vagpc, he found out the mystic P0299 code. and then checked the engine. we found the hose connected to the PCV was loose, he tightened it and checked elswhere then erased the code. BUT; after a while the code reappeared again and again.
after the diagnosis of P0299 In the shop,
-we changed the DV,
-clean the turbo hose entrances with spray
-checked MAF sensor and all hoses visually etc
-checked wastegate by hand
repaired a tiny small crack on the manifold

no visible faults seen. Then ı took the car to the road, it roared incredibley and worked fine, BUT after a few days the code apeeared agfain and the car works as if without a turbocharger.
and here are some topics that ı couldn't figure out
-even on small journeys, after stoppişng the sar while the engine runs, the cooler fan starts working after shutting down the engine it stops
-on kickdowns, when the engine is not hot, it performs well but when it becomes hot turbo perfoms bad.
-after driving hard the car smells oily from the outside
-gas consumption is fine no changes
THANKS FOR READING, ANY REPLY WOULD BE VERY FINE...

[jamerican1]

I still haven't had the time to finish my diagnostics yet... but good luck!

[thebowzer1]

So long time lurker, Just got a call from my mechanic, I too was having the same code, already have a the new DV. He said the intercooler has a tiny leak that he was only able to find under one of the smoke machine. So for you out there that are having trouble..... you might want to look that way.

[jamerican1]

So long time lurker, Just got a call from my mechanic, I too was having the same code, already have a the new DV. He said the intercooler has a tiny leak that he was only able to find under one of the smoke machine. So for you out there that are having trouble..... you might want to look that way.

I did do a pretty serious boost leak test. Didn't find any leaks:(

[esandes]

the air filter and the upstream fine screen need to be maintained properly every year. why not for such a cheap and easy DIY. a restriction on the turbo inlet is just as much as a restriction on the turbo outlet.

[silentoption]

Hi again. I think ı solved my p0299 error. And this would be helpful for you. I will ad images below. I changed my PCV yesterday. And guess what? It was broken. Now the boost is ok.
I can't add images here. I would say that check PCV diaphram it may be torn. Mine was torn. I changed and it was solved. No P0299 error yet

[mbern1008]

If you look at my earlier post you will see that I had my DV replaced for the P0299. Since then it has occasionally been coming back on under certain loads. Seems to be going up hill down shifted at about 3500 RPM. I have hooked up a OBDII Wifi adapter and have been using dash command on my phone to monitor boost. Seems to be boosting just fine, although I am not a master in the subject. When I get the underboost it seems to be at about 14PSI. Any suggestions on next steps?

[mbern1008]

Still having the issue and dropped it off at the mechanic tonight. When revving the engine in park. There is a noise and I had him check it out. Turns out there is a crack in the exhaust manifold and he showed it to me. He says this might be the cause of the underboost as well. This needs to be fixed regardless. Does anyone else think this might cause the underboost too? Also has anyone else had it replaced and if so. Any idea what it should cost?


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[jamerican1]

For what its worth... My wastegate was totally fooocked. Last night/earlier this morning I swapped in a lower mileage (70k) k03 I had laying around but I'm not sure if the actuator is working properly. Fingers crossed that this finally fixes it.

[drumnjuny]

For what its worth... My wastegate was totally fooocked. Last night/earlier this morning I swapped in a lower mileage (70k) k03 I had laying around but I'm not sure if the actuator is working properly. Fingers crossed that this finally fixes it.

[emoji17]

[dalmation53]

I have a B8 and similar symptoms. P0299 with CEL and ticking noise during deceleration with window down. Would really like to hear an update on this...

buy a revision D diverter valve. problem solved.

[awdconnor]

Just got my car back from the dealer because of this code.

The cause was my waste gate "flapper" was stuck open. Resulting in a boost leak.

So they threw in a nice brand new turbo :)

[jamerican1]

For what its worth... My wastegate was totally fooocked. Last night/earlier this morning I swapped in a lower mileage (70k) k03 I had laying around but I'm not sure if the actuator is working properly. Fingers crossed that this finally fixes it.

Update: Swapped in the other turbo. Had a horrible idle that developed, and minimal difference in boost[headbang] Stopped by NGP and it turns out that one of the metal hoses had been revised with a check valve. Swapped hoses and that took care of the idle issue. Still wasn't making proper boost though. As a last ditch effort I tried a wastegate adjustment as outlined in this thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420536-Wastegate-Adjustment
While it's not perfect yet, all of a sudden I'm making boost down low and hitting 20+ psi!

I'll keep you all up to date.

Question, if anyone reading this has done a wastegate adjustment before, was it a permanent fix?

[elmoualh]

Hi,
I am currently facing the same P0299 fault code on my B7 2.0TFSI.

I have an ELM327 OBD2 dongle, connected to my phone by Bluetooth to monitor the Boost/Vacuum gauge since I do not have one.

Here are the symptoms I have:
- When cold, usually in the morning, the boost gauge shows up to 12 PSI, which is perfect for my stock engine/turbo/ECU. The car runs like a perfect bride.
- A few minutes of cruising, say 15 to 30 minutes, the car gets hotter, and I start feeling the loss of boost. The gauge would indicate at this level 3-5 PSI, sometimes 2 or less, which is very noticeable especially when climbing hill.
- CEL showing on the dashboard, fault code P0299
- I am also facing a noticeable an increase in fuel consumption

Last month I had the DV changed to the piston version, the stock DV was torn. I have also installed a KnR air filter as I read many positive feedback about them.

Do you suggest anything?

Thanks in advance.

[tbaudi]

Just got my car back from the dealer because of this code.

The cause was my waste gate "flapper" was stuck open. Resulting in a boost leak.

So they threw in a nice brand new turbo :)

Exact same story - ~89K miles w/ CPO so $85

[Flipgarcia]

I replaced my DV on Friday fixed my boost problem woke up
The next day felt great but after like 30 mins I lost boost again.. Cars seems to keep losing boost. It drives fine then it acts up again then it drives fine and then lost boost again.. Any suggestions what else it could be?

[irobb]

Got my first CEL of this today... I cleared it and will wait for it to return before looking into it more....

01 Engine Control Module 1

System description: 2.0l R4/4V TF
Software number: 8K2907115AL
Software version: 0001
Hardware number: 8K2907115D
Hardware version: H17
ODX name: EV_ECM20TFS0118K2907115AL
ODX version: 001001
Long coding: 0104010A190F0160

Trouble codes:
P029900 - Turbo/Super Charger Underboost
static
Malfunction frequency counter: 1
Dynamic environmental data: 209628
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Intake air temperature: 18 °C
Unlearning counter: 255
Vehicle speed: 71 km/h
Normed load value: 87.5 %
Engine speed: 2922.50 1/min
Date: 2017-01-24 15:29:36
Coolant temperature: 96 °C
Mileage: 107545 km
Voltage terminal 30: 13.499 V
Priority: 2

[my_audi_a4]

Still have those code P0299 as well just replaced the following:

Crankcase Vent Valve Gasket
Crankcase Vent Valve Pressure Regulating Valve
Breather Hose Crankcase Vent Valve/Breather Hose

Looks like i will need a new Turbo [headbang]

[Jason138]

how do you run boost logs exactly?

[Hightekflytech]

I replaced my DV on Friday fixed my boost problem woke up
The next day felt great but after like 30 mins I lost boost again.. Cars seems to keep losing boost. It drives fine then it acts up again then it drives fine and then lost boost again.. Any suggestions what else it could be?

I'm having the exact same problem

[KingWulfgar]

how do you run boost logs exactly?

Using VAGCOM, log measuring blocks 115 and 118. 115 contains the actual and specified boost pressure (in mbar) which you can graph together to see how close they are. 118 has your N75 open status--just a useful piece to see in the full picture. They say to run 1500 RPM to redline in 3rd gear, but that's too fast for streets around here. I just log a couple 2nd gear pulls up as far as I can go (usually entering the interstate at a fairly low traffic area) and hold there for a bit. Here's mine showing my P0299 in all it's full glory. I did a quick and dirty conversion to PSI on it, but I'm not sure it's 100% accurate:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/36119347222_79300d4c8e_c.jpg

[BRiCC_FLAiR]

I also have this code. New DV, smoke test done and determined no leaks. My mechanic advised me that there was oil and some sort of "crud" on the passenger side intercooler. Looking to get some insight from you guys before replacing either that or upgrading.

[Older_not_Wiser]

Just posting here (biggest P0299 thread) in case anyone else has similar issues/symptoms and goes searching like I did.

Problems started with getting occasional P0299 (under boost) codes. They came every couple of days, sometimes wouldn’t see one for a couple weeks. Did the usual checks.

Diverter Valve – Check, changed to piston type long ago, pulled and inspected, no issues
Boost Leak – Check, inspected all hoses, no issues, smoke check, no issues
Logs – Check, N75 duty cycle looked normal, hi 90’s % when matted, tapering to 50-55%, all other logs nominal
WG play – Check, none to speak of, thing was solid

So, this went on for a month or two and then the symptoms changed. Car would drive fine, make proper boost, etc. for the first 10 – 15 minutes of the drive cycle then all of a sudden only boost to 2 - 4 psi. Not really limp mode as I could get the RPMs to redline eventually. Turn the car off for a few minutes, you would get another 10 – 15 minutes of proper boost.

More Logs – N75 Duty cycle normal when car boosting normal; N75 Duty Cycle 97% all the time when boost only gets to 2- 4 psi, Hmmmm? Could still be a sticky WG, so:
Pinch off vacuum line between N75 and WG solenoid with small needle nose vise grips. Careful here, over boost and limp mode possible if WOT. Car drives fine, makes proper boost for longer than 15 minutes. Swap out to new N75 and all back to normal.

Looking back, the only advance warning of this was that in the months prior to this issue, the peak boost when floored would see some variation. Normally 18-19 psi peak, I would sometimes see 21 or 22 psi peak (read in another thread this can be sign of failing N75). The building of boost seemed a little surge-y instead of smooth. Hope this helps someone else.

[Hightekflytech]

Well that definitely helped me
After swapping my N75 valve this past weekend, no check engine light and restored boost at all times. She's running like a champ now

[irobb]

Is the N75 Valve easy to swap out?

[Older_not_Wiser]

Is the N75 Valve easy to swap out?

It is a bit of a tight spot. You can do it from the top if you take out the cold air intake plastic parts, both the part that snaps in and the part with the two Phillips screws to the front core support. Then take off the turbo inlet hose from the air cleaner box to the turbo inlet.

This will give you enough room, but the Oetiker clamps are (as always) a pain in the neck to remove as there is very little room and with the N75 there is not a lot of available leverage to jam a small standard screw driver in there and twist. You are likely to break off the plastic hose nipple from the N75 and then you have zero leverage. I used the cutting portion of my Oetiker clamp tool, several different angle diagonal cutters and even a small jewelers file to get the Oetiker clamps off. Time and patience required.

The far screw on the N75 is also a bit hard to get to (T25 or T30). I had to use a small torx bit with a small extension and tape the screw to the bit going back in.

I also put Oetiker clamps back on because masochist......


Well that definitely helped me
After swapping my N75 valve this past weekend, no check engine light and restored boost at all times. She's running like a champ now

Glad it helped someone.

[hypermoto]

Been getting the dreaded p0299 code over the last few months. Changed DV from old torn style to new piston, and the CEL came back on next day under slight acceleration. Car runs perfect - no hesitation or lag, except for right off the line which I've read is normal for these older cars. Only 77k.

What's my next step? I asked about the N75 and the dealer said if it was actually the N75 valve, it would throw a specific code for it. True or false?

Also I took a quick video...there is a distinct sound when letting off in nuetral. Is it anything to worry about, or possibly related?


https://youtu.be/LURGRbNKAgY

[EvolutionArmory]

Stuck N75 valves generally throw overboost codes.

P0299 is usually boost leak, broken DV or a bad wastegate in the turbo.

The sad part is, as the cars get older more and more of them already have the new style DV and more and more it turns out that your wastegate door is loose.

[rhfosu]

Ever since my APR K04 blew, and i installed the loba, I have been getting random P0299 codes. 1-3 times a month. Brand new turbo, brand new DV.

[ahotboy15]

i have paperwork from the dealer that they took off the N75 and cleaned it out. how popular are people to cleaning parts instead of replacing parts? hahaha, sound off everyone...
Is the N75 Valve easy to swap out?

[hypermoto]

Been getting the dreaded p0299 code over the last few months. Changed DV from old torn style to new piston, and the CEL came back on next day under slight acceleration. Car runs perfect - no hesitation or lag, except for right off the line which I've read is normal for these older cars. Only 77k.

What's my next step? I asked about the N75 and the dealer said if it was actually the N75 valve, it would throw a specific code for it. True or false?

Also I took a quick video...there is a distinct sound when letting off in nuetral. Is it anything to worry about, or possibly related?


https://youtu.be/LURGRbNKAgY



Anyone know if this sounds is normal, or what it could be?

[dalmation53]

Will be swapping out my N75 this week. I bought it then sold it because i thought problem was solved. Having inconsistent boost issues. One time i will boost nicely and then will go on limp mode for a minute and then boost will back again. [emoji34]

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[PrestigeA4]

Bringing this thread back again - has anyone had any definitive success yet ?

Swapped DV - CEL
Swapped N75 - CEL
Boost leak test - CEL
Tested MAP Sensor - Within spec

Worst day ever yesterday going for a test drive after boost leak test - didn’t tighten down a hose between pcv and intake manifold and start missfiring at idle - went to check it out and ripped the hood release off the cable - CANT GET THE HOOD OPEN ! Finally get it open from underneath - tighten hose

STILL CEL

sell the car ? Admit defeat ?

9,000 mechanics on here that won’t give up the help for free so charge me for it name ur price I need this to go away hahA




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[i3oricua]

Check your vacuum pump. I don't know if it will solve any of your problems but this is a small vacuum leak that can form. You can hear the air sometimes if you listen closely. I used superglue to fix mine (careful, you don't want it to get in places it shouldn't be, you still want to have proper vacuum). An easy way to tell is if you tug on the rubber hose on the vacuum pump nipple, the black nipple piece should not move at all. A link for those of you that have no idea what I'm talking about....

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/406280-Finally-found-the-problem-!!!

[EvolutionArmory]

Bringing this thread back again - has anyone had any definitive success yet ?

Swapped DV - CEL
Swapped N75 - CEL
Boost leak test - CEL
Tested MAP Sensor - Within spec

Worst day ever yesterday going for a test drive after boost leak test - didn’t tighten down a hose between pcv and intake manifold and start missfiring at idle - went to check it out and ripped the hood release off the cable - CANT GET THE HOOD OPEN ! Finally get it open from underneath - tighten hose

STILL CEL

sell the car ? Admit defeat ?

9,000 mechanics on here that won’t give up the help for free so charge me for it name ur price I need this to go away hahA




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If all those parts are new and you have no boost leaks, it’s probably the wastegate. It’s easy enough to check. Check the wastegate rod for play. If you remove your cat you can check the wastegate door for play too. Or you can use a bore scope through the O2 sensor hole to look inside while someone else wiggles the wastegate rod.

Also, you have a B8 A4, not a B7. You have a completely different engine and turbo than us so our answers for a B7 might not be right for a B8. And FYI, the turbo on your car does have a pretty well known history of turbo issues.

[ahotboy15]

That's suposely a waste gate rattle. Mine does same noise. Does your turbo or cat glow like crazy after driving. Mine does that too!

Anyone know if this sounds is normal, or what it could be?

[PrestigeA4]

If all those parts are new and you have no boost leaks, it’s probably the wastegate. It’s easy enough to check. Check the wastegate rod for play. If you remove your cat you can check the wastegate door for play too. Or you can use a bore scope through the O2 sensor hole to look inside while someone else wiggles the wastegate rod.

Also, you have a B8 A4, not a B7. You have a completely different engine and turbo than us so our answers for a B7 might not be right for a B8. And FYI, the turbo on your car does have a pretty well known history of turbo issues.

Thanks man - I appreciate the input - I was afraid of that being the problem with my luck so far with the car I’m sure it’s that at this point.


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[PrestigeA4]

If all those parts are new and you have no boost leaks, it’s probably the wastegate. It’s easy enough to check. Check the wastegate rod for play. If you remove your cat you can check the wastegate door for play too. Or you can use a bore scope through the O2 sensor hole to look inside while someone else wiggles the wastegate rod.

Also, you have a B8 A4, not a B7. You have a completely different engine and turbo than us so our answers for a B7 might not be right for a B8. And FYI, the turbo on your car does have a pretty well known history of turbo issues.

Solved - wastegate flapper rattling like a mofo - good amount of play in the rod As well - not too much noise at deceleration to be a dead giveaway but after doing what you suggested with the bore scope through the o2 sensor hole -

Thanks again for the advice - no more throwing parts need to either repair or replace wastegate - saw forge makes a replacement.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Solved - wastegate flapper rattling like a mofo - good amount of play in the rod As well - not too much noise at deceleration to be a dead giveaway but after doing what you suggested with the bore scope through the o2 sensor hole -

Thanks again for the advice - no more throwing parts need to either repair or replace wastegate - saw forge makes a replacement.


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Glad my advice worked.

Forge might make a replacement actuator but the wastegate flap is part of the turbo housing. I don’t believe you’ll find a rebuild kit for that unfortunately unless there IS one for IHI turbos. I know I couldn’t find one for the B7 BW turbo.

[vvenom800tt]

Solved - wastegate flapper rattling like a mofo - good amount of play in the rod As well - not too much noise at deceleration to be a dead giveaway but after doing what you suggested with the bore scope through the o2 sensor hole -

Thanks again for the advice - no more throwing parts need to either repair or replace wastegate - saw forge makes a replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)There no forge wategate for the BW K03. I already emailed forge about this before.

You need to either rebuild the turbo or get a new one. If i was you id get a used turbo with decent miles, and if the wastegate isnt perfect then send it in to get fixed.

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[EvolutionArmory]

There no forge wategate for the BW K03. I already emailed forge about this before.

You need to either rebuild the turbo or get a new one. If i was you id get a used turbo with decent miles, and if the wastegate isnt perfect then send it in to get fixed.

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He has a B8. His is an IHI turbo but I think he’s in the same boat as us BW K03 guys in terms of a lack of a wastegate flap rebuild.

[vvenom800tt]

He has a B8. His is an IHI turbo but I think he’s in the same boat as us BW K03 guys in terms of a lack of a wastegate flap rebuild.Send the turbo in to G Pop shop. $200 and its just like new

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[dalmation53]

Send the turbo in to G Pop shop. $200 and its just like new

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)What do they actually rebuild? You send me pics but haven't said what theu actually rebuild.

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[vvenom800tt]

What do they actually rebuild? You send me pics but haven't said what theu actually rebuild.

Sent from my G3313 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)The replace the entire wastegate assembly. Flapper and arm.

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[ahotboy15]

the guy i bought my wastegate ratting turbo from said in his defense that " people do that on purpose to their turbo so it sounds cool. I find it the most annoying sound in the world like i was riding a bicycle with baseball cards in the spokes :/


Solved - wastegate flapper rattling like a mofo - good amount of play in the rod As well - not too much noise at deceleration to be a dead giveaway but after doing what you suggested with the bore scope through the o2 sensor hole -

Thanks again for the advice - no more throwing parts need to either repair or replace wastegate - saw forge makes a replacement.


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[All_Black_A4]

the guy i bought my wastegate ratting turbo from said in his defense that " people do that on purpose to their turbo so it sounds cool. I find it the most annoying sound in the world like i was riding a bicycle with baseball cards in the spokes :/

Would that be the guy that never got his money for the turbo?
The word bought implies you gave him money.......you only gave him grief.

[dalmation53]

the guy i bought my wastegate ratting turbo from said in his defense that " people do that on purpose to their turbo so it sounds cool. I find it the most annoying sound in the world like i was riding a bicycle with baseball cards in the spokes :/Oh yea that was the guy you stole the turbo from.

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[Kyle B]

Hey everybody. I stumbled upon this thread from last year while researching my underboost code. I thought the bicycle card in spokes sound when deceleration would be an issue regarding the timing chain tensioner etc. Here they talk about wastegate/turbo issues. I know there are a thousand experts on here, can anyone clear this up for me?

[vvenom800tt]

Hey everybody. I stumbled upon this thread from last year while researching my underboost code. I thought the bicycle card in spokes sound when deceleration would be an issue regarding the timing chain tensioner etc. Here they talk about wastegate/turbo issues. I know there are a thousand experts on here, can anyone clear this up for me?Wastegate

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[EvolutionArmory]

Bike spoke sound on deceleration is flat out one of symptoms of a loose wastegate flap. That’s what did my turbo in at 130K.

[06AudiA4Quattro]

Hey guys, I had this code for a year and I replaced everything from MAF, DV (3x), boost control valve (3x), air pressure sensor, and finally replaced the turbo itself. When I removed the original I found the wastegate was wide open. Literally it was fully open, adjusting the wastegate would have fixed the problem, but I had already purchased a replacement turbo with a fixed wastegate instead of the adjustable one like the original had, and after reassembling everything my car ran great for a few days then the ****ing code came back! I hear the turbo at low speeds and can hear it at high rpm’s but when I rip on it the code comes back and then I can’t hear the turbo at high rpm’s until I clear the code again. I’ve no idea what could be causing it since I’ve replaced everything and the new turbo has a fixed wastegate.. ive given up the hope of ever having a fully functioning turbo, but my suffering comes with good news for all of you that have the original turbo and experiencing the underboost code. *******I am 99.9% sure your problem is that your wastegate has loosened up and is always open, so all you need to do is tighten the wastegate which is incredibly easy to do. Just make sure you tighten it in the correct direction.. I’m pretty sure turning the adjuster wheel to the right closes the wastegate and you’re going to want to turn it until it’s impossible to spin it anymore with your fingers, that means the wastegate flap is completely closed as it should be and your underboost will be GONE.*******

[06AudiA4Quattro]

I posted a long response but I’ll summarize here. I had this issue and replaced every component that has to do with the turbo. Nothing worked. Removed turbo and found the wastegate was fully open. Simply closing the wastegate by adjusting the wastegate rod would fix the underboost problem. I am certain this is what’s happening to everyone that has the p0229 code and has already replaced their DV to the new version.
Removing the turbo is very easy, and adjusting the wastegate with the turbo off the car is the best way to do it so you can make sure it’s closed and I would highly recommend putting threadlock on the lock nut and a tiny bit on the adjuster so it does not loosen up again. It’s possible to adjust it without removing from the car but it’ll be a PITA and you will have to guess if the wastegate is tight as it should be or not.

I will be putting my original turbo back on because I suspect the one with the fixed wastegate (2009 version, my A4 is 06) is not working right with my ECU because there are a few small differences compared to the original turbo.. like the turbo fins are larger but there is 7 of them compared to 12 on the original.. DV in a different position, pressure hoses connect in different locations.. so im going to adjust the wastegate on my original and put it back on and will confirm that it fixed the underboost problem and post back on here with an update. It’ll be a few months tho cuz it’s still cold here in MN. Lol

[Jayz691]

I posted a long response but I’ll summarize here. I had this issue and replaced every component that has to do with the turbo. Nothing worked. Removed turbo and found the wastegate was fully open. Simply closing the wastegate by adjusting the wastegate rod would fix the underboost problem. I am certain this is what’s happening to everyone that has the p0229 code and has already replaced their DV to the new version.
Removing the turbo is very easy, and adjusting the wastegate with the turbo off the car is the best way to do it so you can make sure it’s closed and I would highly recommend putting threadlock on the lock nut and a tiny bit on the adjuster so it does not loosen up again. It’s possible to adjust it without removing from the car but it’ll be a PITA and you will have to guess if the wastegate is tight as it should be or not.

I will be putting my original turbo back on because I suspect the one with the fixed wastegate (2009 version, my A4 is 06) is not working right with my ECU because there are a few small differences compared to the original turbo.. like the turbo fins are larger but there is 7 of them compared to 12 on the original.. DV in a different position, pressure hoses connect in different locations.. so im going to adjust the wastegate on my original and put it back on and will confirm that it fixed the underboost problem and post back on here with an update. It’ll be a few months tho cuz it’s still cold here in MN. LolThe b8 IHI turbo you installed should not be an issue, long as its in good condition. Think your recent p0299 is something else. Have you tested your n75? Ya said ya replaced it in the past, was it a genuine or OE(piersburg) one? Is that the one on the new turbo? Have ya inspected/tested your n75 lines for leaks? Pcv check valve from IM sealing?

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[06AudiA4Quattro]

Yeah the IHI turbo was in spectacular condition, came off a car with 11k miles, and the wastegate was SOLID, not a mm of play in it. I put my new n75 on it, pierburg brand and a new pierburg DV with the GFB DV+ attachment. I’m at a loss to what can be causing it to still be underboosting. Even when the code is cleared and it’s driving fine the boost feels really weak.. I have a Bluetooth OBD scanner and live data shows the N75 working, but the boost pressure (actual) NEVER gets over 1300mbar (18.5psi), and never drops below 900-980mbar (13psi), BUT the Atmospheric pressure is always 900-980, which leads me to believe the 900-980 the boost pressure (actual) shows is just atmospheric pressure, meaning when it boosts to 1300mbar, it’s actually only boosting 320-400mbar/4-5psi..
The boost pressure (specified) is generally 1400-1600 but has went as high as 1800mbar/26psi, but the actual boost pressure has never not once passed 1300mbar/18.5psi, and I’m almost certain that 900m/13psi of that is just atmospheric pressure..

Everything is new, pressure test hasn’t revealed any leaks. There is one thing tho, like twice in the last 6 months I’ve got a code for p0442 evap emission control system small leak, I’ve cleared it and it hasn’t came back for months, I assumed it’s because I fill up my car while it’s running during the winter when I’ve got my kids in there.. but maybe that’s not what’s causing it? Could a p0442 be something to do with the turbo?

[Jayz691]

Yeah, your right about all the boost readings, gotta subtract atmospheric pressure, which is what will show at idle. So 1800mbar, is really 850-900mbar(specified), or 12-13psi. Which is stock boost levels. Don't think an evap leak will have any affect on boost. Have you inspected the n75 vac lines? I would also throw a multimeter on tour n75 pins, and check. Takes a few mins, and will rule it out. If ya have a stock DV laying around, id swap it in and see. Process of elimination. Maybe ya got a defective GFB, its possible. If all checks out, with no change, then at least ya can rule out DV, n75, turbo.

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[SidewinderX]

Hi all -- I think I'm in a similar spot with my '08 A4. I'm at 165k miles, so I've gotten good use out of the car with mostly just doing the scheduled maintenance. Finally in the past year I've started to get hit with a few old-age gremlins, which I've been tackling as they come. The last two issues have been a pretty severe oil leak/oil consumption issue (which, fingers crossed, has been solved with a valve cover replacement, and then a oil filter housing replacement after the oil found the next easiest way out haha), and then this P0299 underboost.

We've replaced the diverter valve, but that hasn't solved it, so the next recommendation is replace the turbo (which looks to be necessary if its the wastegate issue). It looks like that would probably run me close to $2k all in (P&L), which I don't love. A couple questions:
1) Are there any other cheaper fixes that I should look into before the turbo? I probably like to exhaust those options first
2) I've been driving the car as-is with the 0299 underboost issue. I definitely notice being down on power at high RPMs and the loss of some general pep, but, the car does fine for how I use it right now. I might be willing to consider just dealing with the loss of power for the medium or long term at this point. Am I risking other, more catastrophic, damage by continuing to drive in this condition? I'm honestly hoping to get another 40k miles on the car before I seriously start looking for a replacement -- is this going to accumulate other damage as a result if I don't take care of it soon?

Thanks!

[esandes]

Look at the air filter. Also inspect the fine screen inside of the ram air inlet. Underboost could be caused by restrictions in the turbo inlet path. If you have a washable air filter, wash it. If you have a paper filter, replace it if it's looking dirty.

[EvolutionArmory]

Look at the air filter. Also inspect the fine screen inside of the ram air inlet. Underboost could be caused by restrictions in the turbo inlet path. If you have a washable air filter, wash it. If you have a paper filter, replace it if it's looking dirty.

Dirty air filters don’t cause underboost codes 🤣🤣🤣

NEVER listen to this guy.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Hi all -- I think I'm in a similar spot with my '08 A4. I'm at 165k miles, so I've gotten good use out of the car with mostly just doing the scheduled maintenance. Finally in the past year I've started to get hit with a few old-age gremlins, which I've been tackling as they come. The last two issues have been a pretty severe oil leak/oil consumption issue (which, fingers crossed, has been solved with a valve cover replacement, and then a oil filter housing replacement after the oil found the next easiest way out haha), and then this P0299 underboost.

We've replaced the diverter valve, but that hasn't solved it, so the next recommendation is replace the turbo (which looks to be necessary if its the wastegate issue). It looks like that would probably run me close to $2k all in (P&L), which I don't love. A couple questions:
1) Are there any other cheaper fixes that I should look into before the turbo? I probably like to exhaust those options first
2) I've been driving the car as-is with the 0299 underboost issue. I definitely notice being down on power at high RPMs and the loss of some general pep, but, the car does fine for how I use it right now. I might be willing to consider just dealing with the loss of power for the medium or long term at this point. Am I risking other, more catastrophic, damage by continuing to drive in this condition? I'm honestly hoping to get another 40k miles on the car before I seriously start looking for a replacement -- is this going to accumulate other damage as a result if I don't take care of it soon?

Thanks!

If you want to really diagnose your turbo, pull off your cat and check to see if the wastegate flap in the turbo’s exhaust housing is loose/flapping around in there and not sealing correctly.

If you have a new DV and no boost leaks (did you do a proper boost leak test?), then you might need a new turbo because your wastegate flap is probably loose.


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[esandes]

Dirty air filters don’t cause underboost codes 🤣🤣🤣

NEVER listen to this guy.


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You're a complete retard.

OP watch for the audizine narcissist fact checkers like this asshole.

It's not only that evolutionsnailbrain dismisses me whenever he has a chance because he's a bitch. It worked for my p0229 code. And here's the first google search backing up my experience. Fact check your mom.

[Jayz691]

Lol, dirty filter[emoji23][emoji23] sounds like he maintains his car, so shouldn't be completely clogged..
Buy anyway, if the WG flap is loose, you can adjust it(add preload) on the b7 BW turbo, not like the b8(IHI) that requires a replacement.
Now its NOT a permanent fix, but worked for me for over a year, and was still fine when I pulled it to install my k04. It'll buy ya some time, could be a yr or 2, till ya wanna replace it. Like EA said, pull the cat off, and check the flap. Best way to check it. It can be adjusted on the car, just a finicky task. Long reech needle nose pliers helps, ones with the extra joint in the middle.

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[esandes]

Jayz is also a big hero here who thinks he's hot but he's another mouthbreather who lives in his mom's basement.

You two clowns haven't even had this code. They'll tell you to replace the turbo. They're fools. I have 345000 km on the same turbo. 15 years of experience with this engine. You don't know how turbos work, clearly.

[Jayz691]

Jayz is also a big hero here who thinks he's hot but he's another mouthbreather who lives in his mom's basement.

You two clowns haven't even had this code. They'll tell you to replace the turbo. They're fools. I have 345000 km on the same turbo. 15 years of experience with this engine. You don't know how turbos work, clearly.Lol, moms basement[emoji23][emoji23]. And i DID have this code clown, and it was the normal loose WG, which I corrected with added preload. If ya have "15 yrs experience" ya should know to change your damm air filter more than once a decade.. Yeah, great experience.
And you can also replace the WG flap/bushing if ya have a way to press it out/in, and weld the arm. But most don't, so usually not an option. Only other way to actually fix it, is to replace it.
Mine had 200k+ miles on factory turbo, whats your point?? Thats 320k kms...

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[EvolutionArmory]

Jayz is also a big hero here who thinks he's hot but he's another mouthbreather who lives in his mom's basement.

You two clowns haven't even had this code. They'll tell you to replace the turbo. They're fools. I have 345000 km on the same turbo. 15 years of experience with this engine. You don't know how turbos work, clearly.

Lol!!!

This code is the reason why I went K04 to begin with….

Needed a turbo so I upgraded.


Bro, we correct you because you give terrible advice 97.6% of the time.

There’s teaching moments and learning moments in life. Your problem is you should be quiet and learning instead of trying to teach.

You don’t know cars so why do you give advice?


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[EvolutionArmory]

@esandes

What do you think is more likely to cause underboost? A dirty filter or a broken wastegate on an old and crusty K03?

This is how you diagnose a P0299 code. You pressurize the intake and check for leaks. If there’s a leak, fix it. If there’s no leak, move on to the DV.

Check your DV and see if it has the old style diaphragm. If it does and it’s ripped, replace it with a piston style. If it already has the piston style, make sure it isn’t cracked because it’s plastic.

If your car doesn’t have a boost leak and your DV is fine, next check your N75 valve’s resistance according to the repair manual. If it’s out of spec, replace it. If it’s in spec, move on to the turbo.

Watch this video. If your wastegate does this or sounds like a can of rocks when you hit boost and then let off the gas, replace your turbo.

Notice how air filters aren’t involved 🤣

https://youtu.be/wN6vrB4VADA


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[Jayz691]

Lol!!!

This code is the reason why I went K04 to begin with….

Needed a turbo so I upgraded.


Bro, we correct you because you give terrible advice 97.6% of the time.

There’s teaching moments and learning moments in life. Your problem is you should be quiet and learning instead of trying to teach.

You don’t know cars so why do you give advice?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)[emoji23][emoji23] id say 98.3% of the time[emoji6]

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[EvolutionArmory]

[emoji23][emoji23] id say 98.3% of the time[emoji6]

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No, because every once and a while someone does actually need coils and pugs.

Even a broken clock is right twice a day.


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[Hugh@EuropaParts]

16683/P0299/000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached

Possible Symptoms

Reduced Power Output
Limp Mode
Possible Causes
Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected or leaking
Charger Pressure Control defective
Turbocharger faulty
Diverter Valve faulty


Possible Solutions

Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control
Check Turbocharger
Check Diverter Valve

[Older_not_Wiser]

16683/P0299/000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached

Possible Symptoms

Reduced Power Output
Limp Mode
Possible Causes
Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected or leaking
Charger Pressure Control defective
Turbocharger faulty
Diverter Valve faulty


Possible Solutions

Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control Check N75 before replacing turbo - Assume Ross Tech 'Charge Pressure Control' is the N75
Check Turbocharger
Check Diverter Valve


Nobody except Hugh (Ross Tech) mentioned the N75. More than a few instances I have experienced and seen on this forum of the N75 going on the electrical fritz....

Read this, but heed the warning.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/288055-Error-Code-P0299-Turbo-Super-charger-underboost?p=12724091&viewfull=1#post12724091

[Jayz691]

Nobody except Hugh (Ross Tech) mentioned the N75. More than a few instances I have experienced and seen on this forum of the N75 going on the electrical fritz....

Read this, but heed the warning.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/288055-Error-Code-P0299-Turbo-Super-charger-underboost?p=12724091&viewfull=1#post12724091EVO mentioned it. Basically 4 common reasons. DV, boost leak, n75, bad WG/turbo. There are other possibilities, but 9/10 its one of those.

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[EvolutionArmory]

EVO mentioned it. Basically 4 common reasons. DV, boost leak, n75, bad WG/turbo. There are other possibilities, but 9/10 its one of those.

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I provided a complete boost leak diagnostic flow chart and nobody pays attention 🤣

I think the spec for a good N75 is somewhere around 25 OHMS. I forget the exact spec.


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[Jayz691]

I provided a complete boost leak diagnostic flow chart and nobody pays attention [emoji1787]

I think the spec for a good N75 is somewhere around 25 OHMS. I forget the exact spec.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Yup, 25ohms.

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[Older_not_Wiser]

I provided a complete boost leak diagnostic flow chart and nobody pays attention 🤣

I think the spec for a good N75 is somewhere around 25 OHMS. I forget the exact spec.


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Yup, wasn't paying close enough attention, my bad.

[SidewinderX]

Thanks all for the suggestions, and I guess for the extracurricular discussion as well?

- It's not the air filter -- it's a recently changed filter, and I checked it again to see if there was some other obstruction (there wasn't)
- It actually doesn't seem like we've solved the oil leak/consumption issue. I don't really see a leak any more, but I'm consuming about a quart of oil every 300 miles now... which isn't great.
- I sounds like there's not much else to look at for the P0299 other than the turbo/wastegate, so I guess I need to decide if I want to spent the $2k or just live life down on power for now
- Not sure what to do now about the oil consumption/leak. Any chance they're related and replacing the turbo will solve the oil consumption problem?

Thanks

[EvolutionArmory]

If the turbo oil seals are done for you’re gonna be blowing oil out of your exhaust.

A bad PCV valve can cause oil consumption too. Bad oil control rings on the pistons can as well but that’s not a huge issue with these cars. A compression and leak down test might tell you something but since it would be the oil control rings causing the oil consumption, it might not tell you anything at all and have good compression.

And here’s a tip for you. A TON of people run the wrong combo of PCV valve and breather valve.

Those 2 parts are VIN specific and need to be paired correctly but yet people will replace one or the other and not use the correct part number.


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[mats16RCGTI]

Hi,

Sorry for my english (again). For a few weeks, I have a P0299-002 code on my car. I changed, the N75, G31 MAP sensor, the dump valve and swap the actual PCV with an older one I have in stock. On acceleration with charge, the car is a little bit noisy, it sounds a little bit hoarse.

A mechanic said that it comes probably from the plastic intake manifold which failed when old. Is it a known issue ? Can the hoarse noise be caused by the wastegate ?

Here is the result on vcds :




000665 - Régulation de la pression de suralim
P0299 - 002 - Limite de régulation non atteinte
Capture:
Etat du défaut: 01100010
Priorité du défaut: 0
Fréquence du défaut: 1
Compteur de RAZ: 255
Kilometrage: 254867 km
Heure: 0

Capture:
Tr/min: 5410 /min
Charge: 66.6 %
Vitesse: 81.0 km/h
Température: 86.0°C
Température: 30.0°C
Press. Absolue: 1010.0 mbar
Tension: 14.097 V

[Jayz691]

When the WG's wear, they usually give a rattle on decel,or at certain point where the WG is opening just slightly. Can unbolt your cat, pull it away from the turbo, and check for WG flap wear. If its loose, you can add preload to fix it. Its a temp fix, but mine was good for over a year. Had to adjust it twice.

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[Theiceman]

Is that done from underneath or does the turbo have to come out ?

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[Jayz691]

Is that done from underneath or does the turbo have to come out ?

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)You can check and adjust with it in the car. Unbolt and pull the cat away from the turbo, and feel the flap for play. If its loose, you can add preload with a 10mm and some giod, long needlenose, or similar. Did mine without removing, twice. All done from above.

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[mats16RCGTI]

When the WG's wear, they usually give a rattle on decel,or at certain point where the WG is opening just slightly. Can unbolt your cat, pull it away from the turbo, and check for WG flap wear. If its loose, you can add preload to fix it. Its a temp fix, but mine was good for over a year. Had to adjust it twice.

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Well, you were right, I have a problem with the wastegate : The link with the actuator is broken :

https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/21/62/55/img20214.jpg (https://servimg.com/view/19216255/417)

I don't know why It is broken. A mechanical here in France said me that he can find the actuator separetly but also said to me that the turbo won't last a long time according to the high mileage, specialy for a k03...

[EvolutionArmory]

Glad to know it was your turbo and not your air filter. If Esandes was right I would sell all my cars and get a bus pass. [emoji3]


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[SidewinderX]

Thanks all for the suggestions, and I guess for the extracurricular discussion as well?

- It's not the air filter -- it's a recently changed filter, and I checked it again to see if there was some other obstruction (there wasn't)
- It actually doesn't seem like we've solved the oil leak/consumption issue. I don't really see a leak any more, but I'm consuming about a quart of oil every 300 miles now... which isn't great.
- I sounds like there's not much else to look at for the P0299 other than the turbo/wastegate, so I guess I need to decide if I want to spent the $2k or just live life down on power for now
- Not sure what to do now about the oil consumption/leak. Any chance they're related and replacing the turbo will solve the oil consumption problem?

Thanks

After talking with my mechanic, he suggested I get the Audi service station to inspect it before deciding to to anything about the turbo and get their input on what this could be.
1) For the P0299 underboost: The mechanic clamped off the vacuum supply to the wastegate control valve (N75) and then road tested the car, and the code switched from the P0299 underboost to an overboost condition, so it looks like the issue isn't with the turbo itself, but with the wastegate valve. Looks like that part isn't too expensive (although Audi wanted 600 for P+L to repace it), so I think that's good news on the turbo front!

2) For the oil consumption, after confirming that we had previously fixed all the external leaks, their strong suspicion is that its the pistons/piston rings, which is not great. I don't really want to spend $5k (or the $8k Audi quoted) to replace the pistons, so my thinking right now is to just deal with it and continue to keep oil in the car and top it off whenever it gets low. I may consider moving up to a heavier weight oil (5w40 or even 5w50?) to see if that helps slow things down -- anyone have any thoughts on that? Pour a bottle of snake oil stop-leak in there and see what happens?

(btw, the Audi service now sends you a video of your inspection with the mechanic narrating what they saw and their recommendations as they go through the car... pretty near!

[EvolutionArmory]

What color is your valve cover? If it’s silver they can separate inside and blow oil into your charge pipes.

That can cause oil consumption.


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[mats16RCGTI]

Can it make some sort of aspiration noise during accélération ?

[Jayz691]

Well, you were right, I have a problem with the wastegate : The link with the actuator is broken :

https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/21/62/55/img20214.jpg (https://servimg.com/view/19216255/417)

I don't know why It is broken. A mechanical here in France said me that he can find the actuator separetly but also said to me that the turbo won't last a long time according to the high mileage, specialy for a k03...Did it possibly just come loose? Did you check the other end for the adjustment piece? Possible it came loose, and disconnected. Had it happen when I lost the retaining clip. If thats the cash, it can just be reconnected and adjusted without pulling. Tricky, but can be done. Even partial removal is an option for a little more room. When i installed my k04, I left the support bracket off. Now I can unbolt it, leave all the lines/hoses hooked up, and pull the turbo away from the head. It takes me an hour total to adjust my WG, by partially removing.

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[Theiceman]

oh god you guys are such a curse......

my son showed up and says the p0299 code is popping up constantly .. my go to is always the n75 first .. but holly crap .. i gotta put it into service mode just to see the damn thing ?? i hate this damn car lol .. or im getting too old for this stuff... diverter valve doesnt look much fun to get to either..

[mats16RCGTI]

Did it possibly just come loose? Did you check the other end for the adjustment piece? Possible it came loose, and disconnected. Had it happen when I lost the retaining clip. If thats the cash, it can just be reconnected and adjusted without pulling. Tricky, but can be done. Even partial removal is an option for a little more room. When i installed my k04, I left the support bracket off. Now I can unbolt it, leave all the lines/hoses hooked up, and pull the turbo away from the head. It takes me an hour total to adjust my WG, by partially removing.

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Unfortunately it's broken, I Can feel the bolt in place. According to the cost of the parts and the high mileage of the turbo, I'm going to change the all with a remanufactured one in a garage.

[Theiceman]

That is quite an interesting capture system on the nut on the rod. Is the idea to able to turn the nut in place ? And it doesnt undo itself ?? I'm looking from under the car and I may be able to a wrench up there
. There is a little side to side looseness but not along its length
I think I can get diverter off but the n75 looks challenging with the rubber lines pinched on. It's way up there

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[Jayz691]

That is quite an interesting capture system on the nut on the rod. Is the idea to able to turn the nut in place ? And it doesnt undo itself ?? I'm looking from under the car and I may be able to a wrench up there
. There is a little side to side looseness but not along its length
I think I can get diverter off but the n75 looks challenging with the rubber lines pinched on. It's way up there

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Easiest to put in service position for n75. With small hands its possible without, but wind up with cuts, lol. DV isn't bad.
Far as the WG, yeah, ya just loosen the 10mm, and turn the adjuster nut in the middle. Can usually get it with long needle nose.

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[Jayz691]

Unfortunately it's broken, I Can feel the bolt in place. According to the cost of the parts and the high mileage of the turbo, I'm going to change the all with a remanufactured one in a garage.The rest will be on the other side. See if ya can get a pic of it. If not, you'll know when ya pull the turbo off. If its broke, I can't imagine how it happened. Something binded..

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[Jeevan]

You can check and adjust with it in the car. Unbolt and pull the cat away from the turbo, and feel the flap for play. If its loose, you can add preload with a 10mm and some giod, long needlenose, or similar. Did mine without removing, twice. All done from above.

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just remove o2 sensor. insert a boroscope and inspect. thats how i did mine. removing Cat or getting seperation on TIP trans is like 3 hrs job.

[Jayz691]

just remove o2 sensor. insert a boroscope and inspect. thats how i did mine. removing Cat or getting seperation on TIP trans is like 3 hrs job.3hrs?? Its 5 bolts..takes me 10 mins with my testpipe, lol. Little longer with a cat and DP bolt still in place.

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[Jeevan]

3hrs?? Its 5 bolts..takes me 10 mins with my testpipe, lol. Little longer with a cat and DP bolt still in place.

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test pipe and original cat are completely different. Ok smart pants show me a video or removing TIP cat within 20-30 mins like you are saying. I will send you a sorry video

[Jayz691]

test pipe and original cat are completely different. Ok smart pants show me a video or removing TIP cat within 20-30 mins like you are saying. I will send you a sorry videoI said 20 mins with the testpipe. Cat takes a little longer cuz of the back nut and DP bolt. But it don't take 3 hrs, lol. Only takes an HR to pull my turbo off the head, with unbokting TP, adjust my WG, and reinstall everything.. And ya don't have to " remove" it, just unbolt from turbo, and slide back..

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[Theiceman]

ok back on topic with my 0299 code .. got the diverter off ( per that other thread .. ) also tested the N75 valve 24 ohms .. decided to take it out anyway.. jesus its frustrating working on old cars... tried to remove the two T-25 holding on the valve .. completely rusted in place and was bending my hex key ffs. Then decided to remove the two M-10s holding the bracket on .. one was about 50 lb torque and i thought the head was going to smash off the bolt 16 years of corrosion and heat from the turbo.... second one was so badly corroded i thought it was a pan head screw, had to remove IC hoses and a bunch of stuff just to get access .. after 1:30 got the bastard off with vice grips ... boy is gets frustarting .. and those stupid hose clamps. grrr...
so that sems to test okay ... 12v a hear the click and it sems to be okay ..

now the wastegate actuator rod ... i guess i could adjust the preload a little can i do it from underneath by turning that nut ? dosent look like i have a whole lot of room but pulling the turbo on such an old rust bucket might be more trouble than its worth. would i turn the not towards the back of the car ??

[Jayz691]

A new n75 test around 25ohms, so at 24.xx it should be fine. As for the WG, if its loose, I tughtened mine from top. Loosen 10mm nut, and use long needle nose to turn the adjusting nut. Its tedious and little at a time. You want to shorten the rod, so I believe you wanna turn the nut downward, but it's been a while. May need to clamp a needle nose vice onto the rod, up by the actuator, to keep it from spinning. But its good to verify if its loose, before tightening.

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[Theiceman]

A new n75 test around 25ohms, so at 24.xx it should be fine. As for the WG, if its loose, I tughtened mine from top. Loosen 10mm nut, and use long needle nose to turn the adjusting nut. Its tedious and little at a time. You want to shorten the rod, so I believe you wanna turn the nut downward, but it's been a while. May need to clamp a needle nose vice onto the rod, up by the actuator, to keep it from spinning. But its good to verify if its loose, before tightening.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Thanks for the info . I've heard you turn it towards the front of the car. I'm not sure if it's shortening on lengthining it.
It's not loose back to front . But definitely rattles side to side. Il report back when parts show up.

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[Jeevan]

Thanks for the info . I've heard you turn it towards the front of the car. I'm not sure if it's shortening on lengthining it.
It's not loose back to front . But definitely rattles side to side. Il report back when parts show up.

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these are well known for internal crack. better inspect first if possible

[Jayz691]

Yes, almost every higher milage k03 will have small cracks in turbine housing, but normally don't cause issues. Mine had a few cracks, including 1 right to the edge of the WG hoke, and still boisted to 22-23psi no problem.

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[mats16RCGTI]

The rest will be on the other side. See if ya can get a pic of it. If not, you'll know when ya pull the turbo off. If its broke, I can't imagine how it happened. Something binded..

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The rest is still in place, I can feel it, I don't know why it broke. Apparently the actuator is no longer available in Audi dealer here in France.

[mats16RCGTI]

The rest will be on the other side. See if ya can get a pic of it. If not, you'll know when ya pull the turbo off. If its broke, I can't imagine how it happened. Something binded..


The rest is still in place, I can feel it, I don't know why it broke. Apparently the actuator is no longer available in Audi dealer here in France.

[Theiceman]

The rest is still in place, I can feel it, I don't know why it broke. Apparently the actuator is no longer available in Audi dealer here in France.

fab something up .. nothing to lose now ..

[Theiceman]

these are well known for internal crack. better inspect first if possible

agree more diag may be necessary .. but figured throw a couple of known failure parts on since its a high miler and they are relatively cheap parts . after i put them on its going into storage for the winter as my son will be using his jetta as his winter beater. Maybe next year i will pull the turbo completely if he still wants to mess with it. Its really time to junk this one though. Drives nice still but is literally falling apart around him .
headliner dropping, starting to rust , upper control arms beat, original suspension , headlights fogged over again, seats split, rear license plate lights cracked and corroded again giving errors, second gear starting to kick back on and on, all can be fixed buy when is enough enough ! .. its been a great car .. but 350K is 350 K and lives in a harsh salt ridden environment.

[mats16RCGTI]

fab something up .. nothing to lose now ..

I found a used one on eBay, it will be 25 or 30% of the price of a new one if it was available. If it works, it will be even better, I wasn't really happy in spending too much money for a new actuator mounted on an old turbo.

[Jeevan]

agree more diag may be necessary .. but figured throw a couple of known failure parts on since its a high miler and they are relatively cheap parts . after i put them on its going into storage for the winter as my son will be using his jetta as his winter beater. Maybe next year i will pull the turbo completely if he still wants to mess with it. Its really time to junk this one though. Drives nice still but is literally falling apart around him .
headliner dropping, starting to rust , upper control arms beat, original suspension , headlights fogged over again, seats split, rear license plate lights cracked and corroded again giving errors, second gear starting to kick back on and on, all can be fixed buy when is enough enough ! .. its been a great car .. but 350K is 350 K and lives in a harsh salt ridden environment.

it was hard to let mine go too but it was time. Those bearings looked flawless after 207k miles. It will surely run 200 more lol with all maintainence i did. The person who bought is so happy with it. Didnt wanna drive around 20 year old car while my friends are settled with kids and telsas lmao.

[mats16RCGTI]

Hi,

Finally solved my turbo problem :

The old actuator :

https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/21/62/55/img20219.jpg (https://servimg.com/view/19216255/422)

The used one I got on ebay :

https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/21/62/55/img20218.jpg (https://servimg.com/view/19216255/421)

I also changed the valves cover with the last version :

https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/21/62/55/img20217.jpg (https://servimg.com/view/19216255/420)

https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/21/62/55/img20220.jpg (https://servimg.com/view/19216255/423)

Good to have the power back and good to save 2800 euros/dollars compare to the audi dealer solution

[Theiceman]

i imagine you had to pull the turbo obviously to replace the actuator. how did you go about setting the correct " preload" on the actuator before putting it back in the car ??

thanks

[mats16RCGTI]

i imagine you had to pull the turbo obviously to replace the actuator. how did you go about setting the correct " preload" on the actuator before putting it back in the car ??

thanks

I didn't do it myself : as the turbo was unavailable (I don't know why), an independant garage specialised in audi/VW accepted to mount the used part I got. The boss said he was able to mount it with out removing the turbo but it was a pain in the ass.

I just looked a video of Forge on youtube about the setting of the preload : I suppose he was able to feel the play of the small wastegate's arm with the fingers or maybe reproduce the lengh of the broken one.try

I will try to have a look under the car this week end to see if I can feel some play or not.

In any case, the car seems to be fine now, I will test it again with an app I used in the past to mesure power and torque and will see if it's close from my old data.

[Theiceman]

i found it was impossible to adjust that nut from under the car, thats why i asked.. i managed to get the lock nut loose , but the knurled not no way it was moving with my lack over leverage. just ended up re tightening it.

[mats16RCGTI]

i found it was impossible to adjust that nut from under the car, thats why i asked.. i managed to get the lock nut loose , but the knurled not no way it was moving with my lack over leverage. just ended up re tightening it.

I read somewhere that you must add pressure in the actuator to make it works