DIY: B6 A4 Window Regulator & Motor Replacement [Archive] - Page 2

vtraudt

02-14-2014, 05:21 AM

Anybody still following this thread - is there a way to spot what may be without having to remove the window? or, how far into the DIY can I see if it's the motor or a clip? I heard some crunching noises, and as soon as I heard that, I moved the window up and left it there. It's fine but it's a pain whenever I go into a parking lot :)

Are you referring to front or rear windows?

Rarely motor.
If glass can be moved up/down: clip
Crunchy: could be the cable not winding up properly on the drive pulley
Crunchy: could be cable came off guide roller and now tangled and winding up wrong on the drive pulley.

Inspection front: once you have the door card off, it is really not that much more work to lift the regulator out. But you can move the clips in positions to inspect them.
Rear: I have to refresh my memory how the rear regulator comes out (rivets or not). But some have replaced the big green clip without removing the regulator, so I deduct that inspection of the clip is possible. Note: on the rear clip, the most common failure is that the 'wire nut' breaks free of the corresponding 'nut holder groove' on the clip.

Front and rear B6 clips in stock:

www.regulatorfix.com
[email protected]

punitshah

03-28-2014, 01:19 PM

I have a question about the window regulator motor. The motor on the front driver side window regulator on my 2003 Audi A4 seems to be working fine but the teeth on the gear have sheared. I was wondering whether I would have to change my motor for that or I could find the gear to replace it?

vtraudt

03-28-2014, 03:08 PM

teeth on the gear have sheared. I was wondering whether I would have to change my motor for that or I could find the gear to replace it?

If the teeth on the MOTOR gear are sheared, I think you need to find a new motor. If the teeth on gear driven by the motor are sheared (drive pulley, where the wire wraps around) are sheared: I have those (need to check, but pretty sure).

www.regulatorfix.com

AUDI101

03-31-2014, 10:41 AM

Great write up helped me out a lot and finally have a working window again. I did run into one problem I purchased aftermarket URO regulators when reinstalling the window motor as I was tightening up one of
the nipples on the blue part of the reg snapped off I figured I had over tightened but I could make it work
with 2 screws then another snapped off. After further inspection the screws are longer Than the nipples so
be sure to get differents screws of shim it with some washers. I ended having to buy a new regulator from the dealer for $160.00 :( other than that happy to have a working window.

exergy

03-31-2014, 12:52 PM

Careful not to over-tighten the screws that go into the "blue plastic stems of the Window Regulator". I just snapped one off.

rfung

04-07-2014, 12:45 AM

So I just did the window regulator with this DYI - mine had one problem, when disconnecting the door panel from the door, besides the plugs that go into the window motor, there were 2 sets of two thin wires that were scrimped from the door to the panel. I had to cut those, and put some quick disconnects in place.

I also used a repair kit from ebay, and it took me FOREVER to figure out how to replace the cable/clips/gear in the original regulator rather than replacing the whole regulator setup. FYI, if you're doing this, you need to snap the clips (blue, white or yellow) off the tracks and you do this by basically pulling them like a hinge on a door so they'll be perpendicular to the carrier frame. After that, I had to install the new cables, and took me FOREVER to make it fit into the carrier wheels as the damn cable was too short by an inch - however, when I measured them against the ones I had taken out, they were the same. I had to use a screwdriver and basically use one of the carrier wheels as a fulcrum to force-stretch the cable into the groove, and I had to ask someone to use a flathead screwdriver to push the cable into the groove. If someone else knows of a better way to have done this I'm all ears for next time, cuz otherwise I'll replace the whole regulator setup rather than just the cables.

The thing now is that I don't know if the new clips are too tight or whatever on the carrier guides, but I timed how long it takes for the window to go up and down compared to the other window, and it's a full second slower to go up. It feels like the motor is straining. I'm hoping maybe with use the sliding action gets smoother and it's less strain on the motor.

Also, when you put the window back inside the frame, make sure that the right side carrier guide goes _behind_ the screw hole on the door frame. I made the mistake of thinking that because the window went flush inside the door it was properly setup, but after putting things together halfway through and getting to those T25 that lock the window to the frame, I noticed this.

lyt

04-24-2014, 08:14 PM

Ok,

First of all...mant thanks for this tutorial, it rocks....I am about to follow it to the letter.

I have a theory on why the plastic clips suck: Extreme temps.

Let me say....my windows worked great for years when I garaged the car.......until I started parking outside in the Florida sun.

The sun outside my house in the afternoon seriously bakes the drivers side of my car. I can't even imagine what the temp is INSIDE the car door. I almost burned my hand touching the side of my car once. I think (and this is only a theory) that what happens is the plastic is SO freakin hot that when you hop in, turn the key and quick try to open your window and bam.....broken clips

I expressly remember when my window started "crunching" and it was exactly at that time of serious heat. Or maybe for others this happens when parked outside, but it only slightly damages them, and they break a while later.

So the theory goes, that if the temp never got extreme, the clip could handle the torque..... but when that baby is smokin....the torque just hammers it. I would almost be willing to bet you could do this replacement and have the same thing happen not so long from when you did it. Maybe it takes a little time, but the guy who posted he had to do it twice before 90k...makes me wonder. I know you were in the garage.... but maybe some time during the day you were in sun?

Anyway, the real truth is I know the design sucks.... but you are dealing with German engineers, that maybe can't fully grasp how hot it is outside of Germany :). jk

It reminds me of the story I saw on the news where some guys feet melted to the asphalt when he was at the beach in Tampa. That's hot man.

vtraudt

04-25-2014, 05:21 AM

I have a theory on why the plastic clips suck: Extreme temps.

Indirectly, the temp may speed up the 'aging' process of the (POM) material.
Design sucks? Not sure. Most last 6-10 years. Fairly easy repair. What have you changed/replaced over the last 10 years that cost $20 or more?
Oil ($50). Does engine design suck because oil fail every 5k miles?
Tires? Darn, that design SUCKS (changed mine TWICE in 10 years. Someone has to sue the manufacturer).
Spark plugs (what: only 100k miles? I want to drive mine 500k miles. Someone better comes up with a better design).
Coolant: Pretty sure some drive around the stock coolant for 10 years.
Timing belt: oh oh!

Since pretty much all car manufacturers use POM (= plastic) and the associated natural 'aging' that goes with it: Must be some reason use this design.

rfung

04-28-2014, 01:49 AM

To whoever is still following up on this thread, I just noticed after doing my window that the window frame is not flush on the door frame, and some wind noise can be heard. I thought that by tightening all the screws back tight the alignment would be fine - I mean, I don't think there's many ways to put the window frame back inside the door - is there a way to adjust it? Would prefer to check here for hints at what I may need to look at to align the door before I go in and unscrew everything...

toomanytoyz

06-01-2014, 11:21 AM

I know this thread is ancient, but I just had to say thanks to the OP. Your time and effort was appreciated! You saved my sanity today! :D

98A4TQ

06-01-2014, 01:02 PM

rfung

06-03-2014, 12:05 PM

Gotcha. That does help because I haven't touched it, and I do have 2 shims that were left out, so that's doable to take out the trim and try to put those back on, vs just trying to remove the whole thing, including the window frame from the door, to try and troubleshoot this.

jamesd

06-16-2014, 05:45 AM

Did this over the weekend and like some people, had some metal shims leftover. When I got everything buttoned back up, the top of my window frame didn't sit flush against the actual frame of the car. It sits maybe 1/8" away. After reading the rests of the posts in this thread, i guess I need to put back the shims? This is on the driver's side front.

While I was taking everything apart, I ended up with 3 shims. One from the upper left side under the #45 torx. And two fell from the right side (I'm pretty sure they fell when I loosened the other upper #45 torx) someone here said that one comes from the metal bracket where the window track at the bottom right attaches to the door frame (behind the speaker). I'm assuming the other goes behind the other #45 torx. My mind is telling me that if i add the shims back, it won't help my situation with the top of the window frame not sitting flush against the car. Either that or i didn't sit the window frame into the door correctly. But I'm pretty sure it can only go in one way right?

Anyone else run into this problem?

vtraudt

06-16-2014, 05:55 AM

I have only come across 2 shims on B5 A4, C5 A6 (both on bottom T45) Would be surprised if B6 A4 is using 3? Any signs of previous work (someone dropped it and couldn't find it, used another one)?

jamesd

06-16-2014, 06:40 AM

thanks for the quick response. I'm sure someone had previously accessed the door. The sound deadening was torn in a few spots. and one of the wire clips was different for the speaker. The PO of my car owned a specialty vw/audi shop. So maybe someone did drop it and just used a different one. But I would think that I'd be able to hear it clanging around within the door.

Any ideas on why my window frame isn't sitting flush?

jr1415us

06-16-2014, 06:52 AM

It's not flush because you need to replace those shims.

vtraudt

06-16-2014, 07:03 AM

But I would think that I'd be able to hear it clanging around within the door.
Bottom of door is kind of 'wedgy' and can 'wedge in' pieces pretty good; often resulting in problems retrieving pieces that fell down by accident when installing stuff.
I found lots of stuff down their (including tons of broken glass pieces, broken clip pieces, bolts) without giving clear clanging notice. Also

vtraudt

06-16-2014, 07:04 AM

It's not flush because you need to replace those shims.

+1

jamesd

06-16-2014, 07:16 AM

awesome, thanks for the help guys. So to clarify, 1 shim behind each of the two upper T45s?

rfung

06-16-2014, 09:07 AM

I'm still working on getting the door frame flush against the frame of the car as well. My mechanic told me that there should be some big screws that are used to regulate how the angle of the window goes. He said I should be able to find youtube videos on that, but I haven't looked at it yet.

jamesd

06-23-2014, 06:44 AM

I got my window frame alignment situated over the weekend. I started with a pretty decent gap along the entire top edge of the window frame where it meets the car after i replaced the regulator. A lot of wind noise while driving but somehow managed to keep out the rain. I ended up with 3 shims after the install (driver's side front). i remember 2 shims dropping while i was taking out the 2 T45s on the right side. I put 1 shim behind the upper right silver T45 and pulled the top of the window frame towards myself while tightening the top two T45s. When i went to tighten down the lower black T45, it was wanting to pull the top of the frame back in the other direction. So I put the 2 remaining shims behind the black T45. Closed the door, and nice and snug again.

Thanks to Stockton for a very thorough DIY.

I also found this vid too for a full regulator install which kinda helps show what to expect.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAFwfDUwFZU

kdt1973

07-24-2014, 10:12 AM

Here is it July of 2014 and I have now used this DIY for the third time - thank you so much for posting it! A note for anyone about to do this - the little cap for the driver's door handle is best pried up from the bottom side so that you do not break off the hook-shaped tab on the top side of the cap. Great DIY!

staypuft

08-21-2014, 07:44 AM

jr1415us

08-21-2014, 08:10 AM

Before you install the regulator next time, put a zip tie through the spool, and cut it after it's in place.

vtraudt

08-21-2014, 08:10 AM

Yes, done it a few times.
Open the 'gear box' and take your cable and just wind it onto the (spiral) grooves of the 'drive gear pulley' (attaching a photo for reference) until ALL grooves are filled. It does not matter how many windings one end gets vs the other. When one spools up, the other spools out.

http://regulatorfix.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=57

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/Audi%20A4/IMG_00072_zpsf8797fb5.jpg
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/Audi%20A4/IMG_0005_zpsc566c83f.jpg

staypuft

08-21-2014, 08:19 AM

Has anyone had any luck re-spooling the window regulator? I cannot figure this fucking thing out.

BTW, Thanks OP, this write up was perfect, everything went flawless until the spool popped out and cable came undone.

I got it to spool... You have to wind it up evenly with the window up, then let the cable sit on the secondary lip on the bottom corner pully. Then pull the cable up towards where it slides into the groove and slowly work it around til it drops in. There is a little channel. What a pain in the ass.

Everything went together great. Thanks again OP!!!!!!!!!!

dangonzales247

08-28-2014, 12:04 AM

This DIY is still worth a ton. Thank you very much Stockton!!!!!

fla

08-31-2014, 11:55 AM

on mine the white motor pinion seems to have worn down, is it possible to get a replacement? Many thanks

10spd

10-05-2014, 10:05 PM

Good prices on the regulators here!:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=p4clsl55jxrrngq3z4225z2p&makeid=800002@Audi&modelid=1423381@A4%20QUATTRO%20&year=2004&cid=13@Body,%20Trim%20%26%20Lighting&gid=10217@Window%20Regulator

10spd

10-14-2014, 11:16 AM

Mine fell out too, I can't see it in these pics though, I can see it on the Audi parts diagram, but it's vague as to the clips placement. Anyone else know precisely where this clip goes? Thanks.
It goes here:
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t191/impalass96lt1/IMG_1653.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t191/impalass96lt1/IMG_1657.jpg
http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com/schematics/1/1397600.gif

Everything will work fine without it.
Pics from Avant Sport on QW

Willënskraft

10-14-2014, 01:48 PM

It goes here:
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t191/impalass96lt1/IMG_1653.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t191/impalass96lt1/IMG_1657.jpg
http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com/schematics/1/1397600.gif

Everything will work fine without it.
Pics from Avant Sport on QW

Hey Old Guy, do have the size for that bolt?

10spd

10-15-2014, 10:23 PM

That's not the same part shown in Post#40, which is the one I can't find a location for.

MacFady

10-16-2014, 05:45 AM

vtraudt

10-16-2014, 05:46 AM

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/325629-DIY-B6-A4-Rear-Window-Regulator?highlight=diy+window+regulator+rear

"Green monster" for rear:

right (passenger):
http://regulatorfix.com/product_info.php?products_id=59

left (driver):
http://regulatorfix.com/product_info.php?products_id=61

vtraudt

10-16-2014, 05:54 AM

^ There are additionaly shims towards the front of the door at the top from what I remember. Check out this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAFwfDUwFZU), I didn't re-watch it but I remember him referencing the shims and their location.

Grammer police, edited this twice but it still puts "remember" twice for some reason.

Just checked, don't have B6 front regulator pics showing the shims. Found B5 A4 and C5 A6 (below) showing the wedge shims. Can someone post the B6?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4656vbk9kg5qgqc/IMG_0036.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4656vbk9kg5qgqc/IMG_0036.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0swcit49mow1eh4/IMG_0037.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0swcit49mow1eh4/IMG_0037.JPG?dl=0

10spd

10-16-2014, 07:46 PM

Thanks a lot for all the input here! The Shim placement is shown at 16:02 in the video.The picture above shows a tab and the shim goes behind it, window frame must be loosened to slide it in. Wasn't sure until I saw the video.

^ There are additionaly shims towards the front of the door at the top from what I remember. Check out this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAFwfDUwFZU), I didn't re-watch it but I remember him referencing the shims and their location.

Grammer police, edited this twice but it still puts "remember" twice for some reason.

10spd

10-18-2014, 10:26 AM

When I finished putting the door panel on these screws were left over, does anyone know what they're for?
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/br289165/1018140004.jpg

vtraudt

10-18-2014, 11:08 AM

Darn. Don't recognize them (too long since last B6). Did you check if those show up in any of the tutorials?
http://regulatorfix.com/tutorials.php

10spd

10-18-2014, 01:33 PM

I searched numerous parts diagrams online, looked at a few different tutorials and nothing. Thanks for your input though!

Darn. Don't recognize them (too long since last B6). Did you check if those show up in any of the tutorials?
http://regulatorfix.com/tutorials.php

gmudan

10-18-2014, 09:30 PM

When I finished putting the door panel on these screws were left over, does anyone know what they're for?
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/br289165/1018140004.jpg

Behind the aluminum/wood trim?

10spd

10-19-2014, 11:08 AM

All of those screws are much longer and I put those ones back in. Did i miss those two somehow?

Behind the aluminum/wood trim?

gmudan

10-19-2014, 01:54 PM

All of those screws are much longer and I put those ones back in. Did i miss those two somehow?

How about the 2 under the arm rest? http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i36/YHWH333/DIY/IMG_0045Medium.jpg

10spd

10-19-2014, 08:17 PM

No i put those ones back.

How about the 2 under the arm rest? http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i36/YHWH333/DIY/IMG_0045Medium.jpg

Charles.waite

10-19-2014, 10:18 PM

When I finished putting the door panel on these screws were left over, does anyone know what they're for?
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/br289165/1018140004.jpg

Those aren't audi screws.

10spd

10-21-2014, 10:24 AM

Thanks

eurosolow

11-30-2014, 05:30 PM

Thanks!! You saved me $180! Less than 2hrs work pretty simple.

Humble tree

12-08-2014, 09:56 PM

Helped out

crowncitycorey

02-18-2015, 08:05 PM

Thanks so much for the write up. Just used it!

glaudi2003a4

04-05-2015, 09:15 PM

Another BIG thank you Stockton...
I was quoted $399 Australian just for part by Audi.. too shocked to ask for labour quote.
Found one for $65 from torq industries in melbourne that I could pick up next day..Looks just like original, not a repair kit, the full replacement regulator.
Suggestions for anyone using this guide.. read all the posts first , some useful info buried in there.
in particular: note where the shims are before moving frame as you remove the screws. mine fell out and because i had not read all the posts or seen the you tube video , (see post #284) i did not know where they came from.
To remove the last couple of plugs from window motor, remove motor first.
Again Stockton Great Work...
I

Jax4123

06-05-2015, 10:38 AM

This is the same process to replace the window right? My window got smashed out in the middle of the night. I have a replacement coming today. Do I still need to role down my window even if there is no windows? I don't want to break anything.

vtraudt

06-05-2015, 10:48 AM

The glass is only clamped by the 'grippers', which connect to the clips, which move up/down the rails, pulled by the cables.
With our without glass, the motion for the cable and clips is the same.

Jax4123

06-05-2015, 10:58 AM

The glass is only clamped by the 'grippers', which connect to the clips, which move up/down the rails, pulled by the cables.
With our without glass, the motion for the cable and clips is the same.

So I should role the window all the way down in this case then?

vtraudt

06-05-2015, 11:10 AM

IIRC: lower 3rd worked well. What are the DIY saying?

http://regulatorfix.com/tutorials.php

BLkdOutTa4

06-14-2015, 10:19 AM

Just used this DIY this morning... A+++! Thanks for the help!

HalfAudio

06-26-2015, 05:41 AM

This problem still persists everyone time after time. Mine died 6 months ago whit 11 years of use and 210 000 miles. I would like to clarify some information about all these Chinese brands and genuine parts.
How long the Chinese brands really last and are they reliable? Mine lasted 3 months and died again.. Or should i go for genuine part in UK it costs around 100 pounds.[>_>]

This video shows that you leave 4 bolts a bit loose so it moves and adjusts, but how can that be correct?[confused] As i remember mine were not lose when i took it apart first time..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS20sLgUEbI

Found this. Its not exactly the same regulator but the principle is the same as ours. Its a good explanation how to change just the cable or clip and get everything properly back together! I spent 3 hours trying to get it back together when my white wheel popped out should have look for this video earlier [o_o][facepalm]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS20sLgUEbI
Edited

HalfAudio

07-02-2015, 09:48 AM

Anybody? [o_o]

Willënskraft

07-02-2015, 05:23 PM

I used this https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&persist_app=1&v=AAFwfDUwFZU with the AZ tutorial. As far as the Chinese brand (eBay) I've bought two of them before. The first one lasted nine months. However, the second one I bought had a manufactured defect on the spool. Luckily I had a warranty and the one right now holding pretty good.

HalfAudio

07-03-2015, 03:03 PM

Did you left the bolts a bit loose as well? I am suspecting that the aftermarket window switch is the problem maker or is it just me? My original one on drivers side broken down 2 months after i installed the switch. it was holding 11 years of every day use and 215 000 miles.

Willënskraft

07-06-2015, 06:08 PM

Which bolts?

vtraudt

09-04-2015, 04:51 AM

Remove the door panel per the instructions above and then pull the motor by taking out the three T25 screws. You can then slide the window up and down manually, and if it is not binding etc you have a bad motor or back electrical connection to it.

That is an easy enough check. 3 warnings:
- a motor that was 'stuck' once (brushes are burnt up) may get stuck again soon.
- moving the glass up/down is a good test for ensure the cables are not mangled (often the cause of crunchy sound). But NOT for the most common common "not moving up" cause, which is broken clip or clips.
- another possible defect not found with this method: stripped splines on the drive pulley (where the motor shaft goes in).

I stock B6 front and rear clips (and typically have the drive pulley on hand): www.RegulatorFix.com

A4SoftWalker

09-04-2015, 11:06 AM

Leave bolts loose before rolling window up and down. Bentley states final tightening with window up. This helps to prevent putting any awkward torque stresses on window frame that could prevent it from sealing against the window and door frame properly.

vtraudt

09-05-2015, 07:15 AM

Which bolts?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

A4SoftWalker

09-05-2015, 07:33 AM

A4SoftWalker

09-05-2015, 12:39 PM

Those aren't audi screws.

Hey Charles getting forgetful in our old age. Haha I would be one to know. Anyways those two screws hold the triangular plastic tray insert into the door on its top flat edge. It snaps in and is held by screws. With ALL you would have to do to get in there - unless it's noisy and annoying to be missing them I think your car just lost a few ounces. [:D]

Charles.waite

09-05-2015, 02:04 PM

Hey Charles getting forgetful in our old age. Haha I would be one to know. Anyways those two screws hold the triangular plastic tray insert into the door on its top flat edge. It snaps in and is held by screws. With ALL you would have to do to get in there - unless it's noisy and annoying to be missing them I think your car just lost a few ounces. [:D]

Can't be right all the time... [;-)]

vtraudt

09-05-2015, 02:36 PM

The 4 main T45 bolts. But out of old experience I left all 7 of the bolts BARELY snug before closing/opening door and rolling window up/down. This was rear door haven't done the front yet but I got regulators for all 4 doors from REGULATORFIX.COM and I will be doing all 4 doors and applying my gun lube to the rails. I did also get the box of 25 recommended interior trim panel clips from Amazon. Rear door used 5. I broke all except 1 or 2.

I put some white lithium down on the tracks and pulleys, cable springs.

Front and rear: move window up/down a couple of times then tighten the bolts. I have NOT found a scientific method or a real 'cause and effect' on how to properly 'set' the regulator (neither on B5, B6, C5 or C6 cars). But only the C6 rears ever gave me problems (done a few, being RegulatorFix by name and trade).

RDA990

09-05-2015, 05:07 PM

A4SoftWalker

09-05-2015, 06:29 PM

Can't be right all the time... [;-)]

Haha you've got a pretty high % of rights!!!
I remember taking those shiny screw out and saying the same thing mentally. These are some bling-bling screws here.

Anyways I have several old styrofoam egg crates I use for disassembly.
Especially for complex procedures. The regulator wasn't too bad at all only 7 screws total + the 2 you left out so 9 altogether. My V70R radiator+intercooler upgrade was HORRENDOUS.

In general assembly is the opposite of disassembly for emptying the egg crates. [wrench][up]

vtraudt

09-05-2015, 07:14 PM

Is OEM the way to go for the window regulator? My passenger side window regulator wire was wrapped all over the motor and is completely chewed up. I don't believe there was a revision done to this part so what will stop the wire from coming undone again? Anyone know why the wire comes undone?

Chewed up cable typically I advise to buy a regulator. By the time you have cable, better also the drive pulley, clips, potentially a guide wheel that cracked...
The 100% China made but big brand name Dorman (sold everywhere, from ebay to amazon to even parts stores) should be a fairly save bet a a fraction of the OEM price (last quotes I received for Audi regulators was in the 270-300 range).

On some regulators, cable off can be caused by the clips breaking (ends of cable end in clip). On others (end of cables are in the motor/gear housing, and wire net in the middle of the cable connects to clips, so cable stays on track, just glass with clip falls down).

-RegulatorFix

cu52

09-17-2015, 08:00 PM

Thanks Stockton! Just replaced mine tonight this made things really easy!

Dzine

11-15-2015, 02:54 AM

Just wanted to say thanks too! Been putting mine off for months but finally got around to it and this made things easy as!

Cheers.

mad70sx

06-04-2016, 03:01 PM

Wow, 8 years later(ninja edit [:D]) and people are still getting good use out of this.

I'm glad I snapped a few pics and did this write up. Feels good helping out others fix a fairly simply issue that seems daunting without a little help.

And it's still giving! Just used your write up to replace my drivers side regulator. With your guide I was able to get the job done in about 3 hours. (and broke only one clip on the door skin!)

Outstanding job, Stockton! This is one of the best DIY's I've ever used. Thank you for taking the time to write it up!

[hail][hail][hail]

NicoS

09-22-2016, 10:46 AM

And another happy customer.
Took me about 2 easy hours to take it apart and then 15 minutes to put it all back together.

The only but was the small metal plate that I could not place but when reading this entire thread found out were I should put.
Not sure I will take the door apart again just for a small piece of metal.

Also, some of the torx screw were philips drive screws ;-)

Btw I bought an original replacement part, main reason, I do not have a garage so wanted to make sure the part would fit right away.

5ktq

11-06-2016, 04:37 PM

Stockton - Great DYI.

Followed this yesterday to replace the driver's side window regulator in an '04 A4 (my brother-in-law's). Made it a lot easier to tackle. However, when lifting the window out of the door a small clip fell out and I couldn't figure out where it came from. I put everything back together, the door, window and all the electrictrics work fine. (sorry for the blurry pic) Has AMS 800 837 779 stamped on it.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/audi-part.jpg
Any idea what it is? Or more importantly, where it goes?

It would be nice to have this in a PDF. All too often these DYIs end up with missing images, or broken links after a few years and this is one I'd like to save in an easy to save/read/print format.

Thanks again for the great write up.

Took my door apart today to see why it sounds like a tin can, like an old mk2 golf. Found one of these clips laying in the bottom of the door, and another mounted between the window frame and the door. That door also had a problem with the window frame sealing tight to the body when the door is closed (it was a bit skewed out?!). Took the clip out and the fit is much better. Not sure if thats where it belonged in the first place or if the PO just found somewhere to stick it. On mine the nub with the dimple is bent 90 deg from the 'fork' part though...

8D0 837 779A was on mine.

Anyway the reason it sound like a tin can is ALL the seam sealer / rubberized mat thing they paste on the outer door sheetmetal to quiet it had shattered and fell off in a about 15 pieces, laying on the bottom of the door. bizarre.

Protection

11-06-2016, 07:04 PM

Took my door apart today to see why it sounds like a tin can, like an old mk2 golf. Found one of these clips laying in the bottom of the door, and another mounted between the window frame and the door. That door also had a problem with the window frame sealing tight to the body when the door is closed (it was a bit skewed out?!). Took the clip out and the fit is much better. Not sure if thats where it belonged in the first place or if the PO just found somewhere to stick it. On mine the nub with the dimple is bent 90 deg from the 'fork' part though...

8D0 837 779A was on mine.

Anyway the reason it sound like a tin can is ALL the seam sealer / rubberized mat thing they paste on the outer door sheetmetal to quiet it had shattered and fell off in a about 15 pieces, laying on the bottom of the door. bizarre.

That same soundproofing or whatever that stuff is, had come off the inside of my door in index size pieces one piece wedging into the regulator. Looks like 14 years is the life expectancy of whatever they use to bond that stuff on. I can only assume it is some type of sound absorber.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5ktq

11-06-2016, 08:00 PM

Yeah, it's for deadening sound. It's weird, on my 30 year old 5k all that stuff is still intact. it looks like it's tar based there, here its some kind of heavy rubber. I wonder if shock in the winter when it's old cracks it and it falls off.

samaritano

12-06-2016, 05:34 PM

Does anybody have a part number for the two top countersunk screws that attach the regulator to the window frame? I stripped mine and need new ones. TIA

Willënskraft

12-06-2016, 05:50 PM

Clicky (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/hex-bolt-priced-each/n10520502/)

samaritano

12-06-2016, 07:08 PM

Clicky (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/hex-bolt-priced-each/n10520502/)

Thanks a lot. I was at ECS looking for it but had no luck. I appreciate it.

MrJibbs

12-31-2016, 11:31 AM

Just did this on my wifes car! Stoked to find such a sweet DIY so many years after posting! Was super easy after I broke all the door clips getting it off hahaha! Ive never been gentle on door clips but I digress. At least they are cheap and easy to replace! I had the stupid bound up cable on the motor, making crazy noises!! Window works great now and the wife is pumped!!!

THANK YOU SO MUCH OP, excellent DIY!

OttawaWill

12-31-2016, 03:15 PM

I used this DIY just over a year ago. The only hangup I had was when I accidentally hit the door lock button while installing the door card with my only other key in my jacket on the drivers seat...
This was probably the only time I didn't have the drivers window open.... Always open the window when bringing car into the shop.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

staypuft

01-04-2017, 09:08 PM

I just had to order another passenger side. Seems like every winter 1st time it goes below 10 degrees one side breaks. Super annoying. 3rd one in 3 years.

Black Fox

01-10-2017, 04:17 PM

Yeah, second one to post in 2017, keepin this post alive forever!

Anyway, I just replaced the regulator, drivers side, everything went smoothly for the most part, but when putting everything back together, I realized that the two plugs that plug into the top of the speaker are the same plug type, and I don't know which one goes in which slot. One plug comes from trim, and one comes from inside the door. identical plugs. Anybody know which one goes where?

Thanks!

Willënskraft

01-10-2017, 04:27 PM

The door card plug goes to the outer part of the speaker. The one from the door goes to the inner part of the speaker.

Sent from the Deathstar

Black Fox

01-10-2017, 04:34 PM

Thank you! great DIY.

Willënskraft

01-10-2017, 04:44 PM

No prob!

Sent from the Deathstar

AllroadMass

05-05-2017, 06:41 PM

Exactly what I'm looking for!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Luxus Panzer

05-05-2017, 06:48 PM

My 3rd DS front regulator fell apart on Friday :(. It was OEM from the junk yard and I cleaned/lubed it before install... Oh well. It sure was nice to have windows for the last 6 months.

vtraudt

05-06-2017, 05:41 AM

My 3rd DS front regulator fell apart on Friday :(. It was OEM from the junk yard and I cleaned/lubed it before install... Oh well. It sure was nice to have windows for the last 6 months.

Keep in mind clips fail more from age (becoming brittle) than from wear. The material (chosen for it superior coefficient of friction and high wear resistance) is POM.
That is why I recommend (and tell customers) to change BOTH clips (front windows on most cars) 'when in there'.

We have B5 A4 front (no rear available), B6 A4 front/rear, C5 front (no rear available) and C6 front/rear, A3, Golf, Passat, Jetta, Beetle in stock.

RegulatorFix.com or [email protected]

Hako

08-30-2017, 02:18 PM

Why cant I see any foto?

Axis

08-30-2017, 02:27 PM

Why cant I see any foto?

Because photobucket are greedy and now charge 400$ to link pictures.

ozMatt

08-30-2017, 05:23 PM

Another thanks for the DIY [up]

I do have a small issue though - everything went back together fine, everything fit perfect.

However now when I try to put the window up, it goes out of alignment and gets jammed. Any idea what I'd need to adjust to fix this? I lined everything up the same as it was previous so not sure what it could be.

Thanks, Matt

Willënskraft

08-30-2017, 05:26 PM

ozMatt

08-30-2017, 06:52 PM

everything is OEM, except the green clip I had to replace. (looked identical though)

The glass sits in the liner/tracks fine, and goes down without resistance. But going up it gets maybe half way and starts to tilt a little then jams.

Chemmie

08-31-2017, 03:34 AM

Luxus Panzer

08-31-2017, 04:15 AM

Why cant I see any foto?

This will fix your problem.

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/fir...ix/?src=search

ozMatt

08-31-2017, 09:15 PM

Did you count the serrations on the black/orange plastic mounts between the window glass and the regulator and install the new regulator in the exact same position? If the window is tilting front/back within the frame, this is likely the problem.

If it's tilting left/right (wrt the car, driver side/passenger side tilt) then you do not have a shim in place. The photo above in this thread with the penny and what people are calling a "metal clip" is a shim for proper track alignment.

In any case you will have to open up the door again and loosen the regulator to see exactly what the issue is.

No I don't even recall seeing the serrations tbh.

The tilting is back to front(eg: as the window goes up it starts tracking towards the front of the car until it gets to the point where the anti-jam cuts in)

I'm guessing my issue is going to be the first part of what you've suggested. I'll see if i can dig up some pics of what i need to look at.

thanks [up]

Edit: You're saying I probably need to make an adjustment between the green and black pieces in this pic - correct?
http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Audi_B6_A4/74-INTERIOR-Replacing_Your_Rear_Window_Regulator/images_small/pic19.jpg

Chemmie

09-01-2017, 04:33 AM

I can't post a photo as I'm doing this from a phone w/o Tapacrap, but yes, you understand what I'm getting at.

On the OEM reg I installed there were only single screws holding the plastic black window mounts to the slides on the regulator, which were orange. The window could be moved front/rear wrt the reg via the serrations between the black and orange mounts (between reg slides and window, in other words). If the window is tilting in the frame towards the front of the car, you'd want to adjust the serrations/mounts such that the window sits slightly more forward on the mounts. (The window is essentially rotating and we're compensating for this via the mounts).

Leave the sound deadening foam off the door and pop the motor back in. Test window function w/the driver side switches to ensure it works- this way you need not assemble the entire door just to tear it down again. When everything is good, remove motor, stick foam back in place, install motor etc.

ozMatt

09-02-2017, 04:46 AM

awesome, thanks heaps Chemmie. Will give it a go.

Rocs

05-25-2018, 01:03 PM

my wire came off the spool.... am i screwed?

been trying to fix it for a while now to the point where im here posting. Should i just buy an other one?

vtraudt

05-26-2018, 04:35 AM

Front or rear regulator?
There is quite a bit of tension on the wires.
Most corner pulleys (have to check) have a notch on the 'rim', some even have a groove to put the wire on/into and then rotate the pulley so the wire rides up the rim and into the groove.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e4b9wyvpThwUN_lU-7aR7Ys9kf0ORD92
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e4b9wyvpThwUN_lU-7aR7Ys9kf0ORD92
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xDXRIttmMwHtzNSXAmadIrFTgfkIpl_b
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xDXRIttmMwHtzNSXAmadIrFTgfkIpl_b
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1RROOuHH5IdC_gqfpdQHFRWmbazsxaN9g
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1RROOuHH5IdC_gqfpdQHFRWmbazsxaN9g

RareGenius

10-16-2018, 05:38 PM

Both regulators brand new, plus detailed video dis/assembly instructions....$61.95 delivered. This is a novice level repair, so dont waste your $$$$
On ebay - 1A Auto is the seller. Very good quality Audi parts.. Best prices Ive found.

rensho

08-17-2019, 02:40 PM

Anyone just replacing the clips on front window? 4B0837463B

vtraudt

08-17-2019, 03:14 PM

Yes, I have done a few B6 front window.
As always (with this type of regulator), getting the cable back onto the guide pulley is tricky.

Front clips (fits left/driver and right/passenger side) here:
http://regulatorfix.com/product_info.php?products_id=62&osCsid=30b23ba40edb74d57b57d194d79cd1d0

ozMatt

08-19-2019, 07:46 PM

Is the glass inside the velvet liner? Anything lodged in the path? Could be a bad motor or regulator, is your's OEM?

Necrobumping as this ended up being my issue.

I only recently got to look at this again and upon disassembling everything I realised that when I did the initial repair I somehow managed to jam one side of the glass between the velvet liner and the window frame [headbang]

I reinstalled the glass properly this time, and lo and behold this thing is smooth as silk now. Now I just need to order clips for the other doors as they are all starting to sound funky.